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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ย. 2024
- Pad priming is an important step in achieving consistent results from the very beginning. In this chapter, we walk you through the process of priming foam and fiber pads and explain some of the science for why it is so important.
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Ain't gunna lie, seeing him hold that machine in one place for that long gave me chills
Agreed, definitely not necessary. Todd at Esoteric actually has a video explaining why priming foam pads isn’t necessary
@TheJSilverio
Whether to prime or not will be argued endlessly. I usually do but Todd Cooperider's video is making me reconsider. On his video, he was using microfiber pads for that test if I recall, not sure if his conclusion applies to foam and/or wool.
This makes the most sense. Lines along the radius of the pad means the polish covers most of the surface area of the pad the moment it starts spinning. I see people using dots around the pads and I always wondered what happens to the dry areas of the pad that initially make contact with the paint?
Dang, I should’ve watched this first before working on a black Chevy Malibu 😬. I didn’t prime the pad well, thanks for awesome information!
Glad to hear it’s helpful. Thanks for watching.
wow! so much content on one day??? you are spoiling us! :D :D
Thank you Jan for giving us the opportunity. Stay tuned for more!
Thank you. I use the Mille. When using the wool pads, first, I prime them and then start using them by loading them with 4 pea-size drops for a 12" x 18" section I'm going to work on. When I finish with two passes with a slow to medium arm speed on machine speed 4, with little pressure, I typically I see about 1/3 of the pad laying flat with the product. If I continue on to four passes, the pad looks drier of course. What should the pads look like after four passes and use my tornado to blow the pad out. The pad looks great, but should I only be putting 4 drops back on again or do I need to put more on because the pad is so clean? Does the pad laying flat with product tell me I should be putting less than 4 drops or is that considered normal? Thanks again.
So many variables at work that what the pad "should" look like is really going to vary. If the pad face is inconsistent then there may be an issue with your pad angle or you're working on curved surfaces, hard to say without seeing it in person.
As far as reload amount, that is a variable... depending on section size, working time, working speed, ambient conditions, and several other factors you may use anywhere from 1 to 4, 5, or even more drops to reload a pad. The best thing to do is start with a small amount, maybe 2 drops, and if you notice excessive pad drag or the compound short cycling, increase the amount on the subsequent reload. Unfortunately, paint correction cannot be as ABC, 123 as we would like... the reality of variables makes every application unique, so we have to train ourselves to read what is happening and adjust accordingly.
Do I have to pre-prime the yellow foam pad again after I have cleaned it with compressed air? If it does not have to Priem again. Does it hold with 2 pea size polishing compound or do I need more since it has been blown clean?
Blowing the pad out only removes surface residues. The pad will still be moist with product and only a few drops of compound would be necessary for the subsequent applications.
Hi...I bought the RUPES Nano Ibrid ...My question is in regard to priming pads. Do you prime the pad only ones before using the brand new pad, or does it need to be done for every new job thereafter ?
Thanks for watching and commenting. Priming needs to be done on the very first application with a fresh or dry pad. So you'll prime each time you start using a pad from new or clean/dry.
Now, with the nano and the very small sizes of those pads a single drop is usually enough to prime the pad. Think in scale of what it takes to prime a full size pad (as shown in the videos) and then translate that ratio to the 70mm or 40mm pads... it isn't much! Hope that helps.
@@RUPES So, after finishing the job, you would clean/wash the pad, and next time you use that very same cleaned/washed pad, you would prime it ?
@@mz8210 Yes. If a pad has no polish on it, (regardless to whether that is because it is brand new, or you washed it after the last time you used it), Rupes instructs that the pad be primed.
Very easy to follow. Thank you so much! Patiently waiting for my yellow fine cut pad and Uno Protect to arrive.
Question though, and apologies if this is the wrong forum. My plan was to use the Uno Protect with the polisher and then apply a layer of P21S hand wax, or my Zymol red wax to build some additional shine. Is that last step unnecessary, or beneficial? This is on a hot rod show car. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting. The thought that additional layers of product increase shine is sort of an outdated thought process. While it may have been true at some point in the past, the advances in chemistry with protective products means that sealants have a high degree of optical clarity and the true shine is actually produced in your prep/polishing process - the better the underlying clear, the better the result.
All that being said, you can certainly apply a product over UNO Protect if you prefer. Make sure you wait until UNO is fully cured before applying anything, and also understand that your surfaces will take on the characteristics of whatever the last product you applied is, so in this case you'd be replacing the highly glossy, slick, hydrophobic properties of the sealant in UNO protect with a less optically clear, less slick, and less hydrophobic wax.
@@RUPES many, many thanks! This is the information I was looking for. I watched a few other videos and saw that some people were adding another, hand applied product over the Uno Protect, and was not sure if that was necessary. I just recently completed cutting and buffing my finish. The car was painted 15 years ago and while the body shop did a great job on the car, they cut and buffed way too soon and the paint shrank over the years after it cured. So I went over it again, using the 3M Perfect It system, but due to time and the fact that I am not 25 years old, I had to do the car in sections and eat the elephant one bit at a time. The bulk of the work is done, and now I want to fine tune the finish with Uno Protect and this is great news knowing I don’t have to add another layer on top of this. Thank you for the quick reply back.
Our pleasure to help! When everything is done shoot us an email. We'd love to see pictures.
www.rupes.com/contact-us
@@RUPES will do. Thank you so much!
Sorry about an obvious question but does warming the foam pad and spreading the product in the same place for 30 seconds not harm the paint or would you do this on a test panel or otherwise. Thanks for another great vid
Common question, but no. It would not harm it. It will do some of the polishing/correction work in that spot. If it makes you more comfortable you can prime elsewhere, but it is really not necessary.
@@RUPES thanks
After you prime the pad do you add more dots of product before you start on your first section?
Thanks for watching and commenting. Typically, yes. You'll add just a tiny bit after priming so you have enough product to effectively cover your first application area. At a certain point it becomes a "feel" thing... where you may not always need to add more b/c you have enough product in the pad from the priming process. It will become obvious with experience.
@@RUPES ok thanks!
Hi expert, hope you guys could help me. I already primed my new fresh pad, after some passes I cleaned it using Rupes Claw. Do I need to prime it again if I decided to use the same pad.? Thanks
Thank you for your question. Once a pad is primed you only need to reload with a few small drops of compound. The subject of reloading is covered in the next chapter of the series: th-cam.com/video/NyUg5oq94bo/w-d-xo.html
been seasoning new foam pads w/spreader for years... is that technique obsolete or not recommended now?
You can certainly spread if you prefer, but it doesn’t remove the need to run the pad in place to get it up to operating temperature. If you have to do that anyways, and it spreads the compound, then pre-spreading isn’t necessary.
Which size pad is being used in the video? 5 or 6 inch?
This process also works for a rotary? Or is it different? How it would be for a rotary?
Rotary is different. Typically we recommend you do a bead pickup or similar with rotary.
Real awesome guys im still interested to come to the States for the academy let me know if your up and running.
We expect to begin hosting classes again in this summer. Announcements should be made soon!
Hello, is it safe for me to use this exact priming method on a rotary ?
Hello. For rotary we recommend the 'picking up a bead' method for the most effective and efficient way to prime your pads on that movement.
For how long can I use a single pad? For an entire car or is better to split in two different pad? wool and Foam have a different "life"? Regards guys
Thank you for the question. We recommend changing the pads every few panels to maintain consistent performance during the job. 4 pads at a minimum to complete a car. By swapping pads throughout the job you also ensure those pads will last for more uses as they are never overloaded or overheated.
@@RUPES about how long would a wool or foam pad last respectively? What is the the lifetime of these pads basically @ 4 pads per car
Before the pad loses its cutting action or gets too worn out?
We actually have a video coming in response to this exact question. Stay tuned.
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