// Klipper Bed Mesh // How to fix a warp bed

Hey guy! Its Jprince (GoldenJaguar392)
In Today's video I'll be discussing klipper's bed mesh and how to fixed a warp bed.
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[@JohnKlopp]

Thanks for taking the deep dive into these topics for our hobby and explaining them. 👍

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

Thank you! I really appreciate this!.

[@coolieroux]

Saw the Monster hunter icon and the enticing title. Was not let down. Great info!

[@kevinaub]

Really good coverage of the topic. thanks man!

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

Thank you!!

[@jamieclarke321]

Found all your informational videos very helpful so far and enjoying watch the annex get built as there isnt a lot of info about
this machine on youtube

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

Glad to hear it!

[@mitsubishimakes]

Great video! Thanks for all the info!

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

You’re welcome

[@CaseyHerman]

This was a good video. Thanks for sharing

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

You’re welcome.

[@PsilosAudiTTQuattro]

Great vid!!!

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

Thank you!

[@BreakpointFun]

Thank u! Real G of knowledge

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

still don't know how to take this based on you're first comment.

[@roscoe3dp470]

Love the video and the way you explain things in detail. Any chacne you could do a video abot Macros ? What they are and how to use them ?

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

Thank you that means alot!! Yes I can

[@roscoe3dp470]

@@GoldenJaguar3D Thank's that would be awesome.

[@black___gains]

Thank you! Lot of useful information..is it similar in mainsail??

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

Yes basically the same thing

[@bob92553]

Thanks

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

Welcome

[@bob92553]

@@GoldenJaguar3D can't believe no one else does these deep dive setups

[@csenior10]

Do you know what the maximum acceptable deviation variance is? I was thinking it was 0.300mm.

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

I would max deviation is 0.200mm anything above that and it seems to be a bit of a struggle to get a consistent layer down with abs, pla and petg would be fine above 0.2 but abs is not friendly in my experience.

[@Joe-wk9ow]

I just add the macro to start print right inside of the config file. So all I have to do is just have the slicer [Start Print] and klipper dose the rest.

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

That's correct, for me I just put all my start gcode in the slicer I find it easier and less confusing.

[@roscoe3dp470]

Any chance you could post a copy of your start and end g codes so i can paste them into Cura as i can't seem to get it all working.

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

sure thing
Start code for VZbot
G28 ; Home all axes
Z_TILT_ADJUST
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
BED_MESH_OUTPUT
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
CLEAN_NOZZLE
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z20.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 Y5.1 X68 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 Y5.1 X250.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 Y5.4 X250.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 Y5.4 X68 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X68 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
End Code
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning
BED_MESH_CLEAR
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

[@roscoe3dp470]

Many thanks..

[@wrxsubaru02]

I dont get how adding tape to probe it will help level the bed... Once you take the tape off, that will just make klipper think he bed is higher in that section which will cause a high spots where plastic doesn't stick, right? Am I missing something here?

[@FireN2k9]

The tape stays there, you dont remove it afterwards.
It would be better using kapton tape btw

[@hyperdanny5661]

Whats your start gcode in your slicer?

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

G28 ;Home
Z_TILT_ADJUST
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
BED_MESH_OUTPUT
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
G92 E0
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 Y15.1 X10 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 Y15.1 X200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 Y15.4 X200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 Y15.4 X10 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

[@ArneSchwarck]

Again I find Z tilt down to the micron a bit overkill if your bed is so warped. Then you are just tramming to make those two points level but everything else is not. What I did was put a small ball on the bed to see where it rolls to. If your bed is now really level with the tape a ball should not roll anymore.

[@DarkR3ignlol]

But that implies that everything else about your printer is absolutely level. Bed just has to be level relative to your x and y axis.

[@leonardorossell8874]

What if the platform that you placed your printer on is not level. Your example would be flawed. The bed would be leveled to the platform and not the X and Y axis.

[@ArneSchwarck]

@@leonardorossell8874 if the ball also rolls on your table that would be a good sign to fix that first

[@BreakpointFun]

Rick: you wanna see TRUE LEVEL?
😭😂😂😂

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

not sure how to take this but I will believe it's in good faith.

[@anthonycruz4435]

@@GoldenJaguar3D It is, its from an episode of Rick and Morty

[@kripticace9129]

Now apart of your channel

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

Welcome to the family!

[@102diy]

The best way to fix warp bed is make this bed unwarped! 😂

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

you got a point lol

[@102diy]

@@GoldenJaguar3D I meant to make it physically flat - that is the best way, not any program tricks)) change warp hotbed, use flat glass 4-5 mm - this way 😀

[@pardeepbhathal3978]

Intro too short!!!!

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

yea