How To Build Double Shed Doors Step By Step
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ส.ค. 2023
- This is a step by step video with measurements on how we make double shed doors at Olde Liberty Sheds & Structures. If you ever wanted to learn how to build shed doors with LP Smartside siding than here you go. Please like and subscribe for more future videos on shed construction and repair.
#howtobuild #howtobuildsheds #lpproducts #howto #shed #carpentry #construction #sheshed #storage #backyard #doors #trimmer #lp
The hinges, spring latch and door handle with key used in the video are available from our supply store individually or we can send you a double door kit with 6 hinges (6"), 2 spring latches and a 5" shaft door handle with key. Send us an email at oldelibertysheds@gmail.com
Door Kit Price =$47 plus shipping
Individual Parts Prices plus shipping
door handle 5" shaft = $13 each
6" black hinges =$5 each
Spring latches black = $10 per pair
send email to oldelibertysheds@gmail.com to order - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Excellent video!! I was looking for shed door ideas and this is the best I've seen! I'm a DIY'er and looking forward to other videos you produce! Wish you the best in your business!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for your kind words. I am working on a shed building series right now. Hopefully releasing it soon.
This is a great door video. We are building a new shed, and this helps with ideas for the doors.
Thank you. Please subscribe and share the video. Also if there is any other questions you have for sheds, just ask.
I'm thinking you left out a few details about the trim overlap , then I noticed you wrapped it all up in the last minute! Good video
This video is so helpful. Thanks for sharing it with all the details. Your responses in the comments are really helpful too.
Thank you. I am glad we can help. Please subscribe if you havent.
Subscribed!
Man i love the pencil zinger! Lol great work bud thanks for sharing.
Thank you
Thanks. I like the way you explained everything. I’m going to build my wood shed doors this way.
I am glad we can help. Let is know how it turns out.
Thank you very much for the video. I used it to build a double door on one side of my shed, and a single door on the front. Really appreciate it. Maybe do a little highlight of the trim and overlap as that part was hard to see.
Bravo Sir. TH-cam University Quality Video. Keep up the educational Videos. 💚🌵☘️
Thank you very much, I appreciate the compliment!
I enjoyed the video, thanks for taking the time to produce it. One comment about your terminology regarding the door names. I’ve always heard that the door that is used is called “ Active “ and the fixed door is called “Passive or Fixed “. Thanks again
Great video! Thanks for your time 🫡
Thank you for watching. Please subscribe if you like the videos.
Nice job and instructions
Thank you very much.
Excellent I like what you are showing us.
Thank you
Great video will use in my shed build.
Great!
So I love this tutorial and used this method to build my doors. I made the mistake of trimming my doors out with the casing flush with the roug opening. When I went to set the doors the trim on the face of the door sat about 1/2 in front of the casing. I noticed at 24:08 your casing looks like it is over a little. Is this the 1.25 that the outer door trim hangs over (meaning should I move my casing around the R/O out so that the door and casing are flush?) Thanks again for your time with all of this!!!
Yes the 1.25 inch overhang is to allow the casing to seal to the building.
great work
Thank you
Thanks for the video - very helpful! Where do you get your handle/latch for the passive door and spring latches for the fixed door? I'm also interested in seeing how you make your trim boards out of the LP Smartside product. Thanks!
We can sell them to you. Send me an email to virginiashedsllc@gmail.com on how many you want and what you need.
I love how these doors are done and I will be building mine this way. I may have missed something because I am not sure why one door is 36 1/2 wide and one is 34 1/4.
It s because one will lap the other.
Looking at using your technique to build 3 doors for my shop that was wrapped with t1-11. A concrete floor was poured so there is no bottom lip or edge. More or less level with a shallow ramp. I dont think a bottom trim overhang will be needed…
Buy a garage door sweep from Lowes for the bottom to seal it. Cut the sweep to size.
@@oldelibertystructures5401 btw, been my experience that the door designations are “active and inactive”. Inactive of course being the stationary door.
Would have liked to see the lap design as I dont recall seeing where the two doors match when closed. Im assuming the lp laps over from the active door to seal the inactive door.
Yes the passive door lp center trim overlaps the fixed doors LP siding. I guess it depends on where you are from on what the terms are? Thanks anyway.
Nice tutorial! I got a bit lost about the trim overhang where both doors meet in the middle. I think I heard 1 1/4" overhang for trim both on the Left and Right for each door, but seems the fixed door must have an inset trim to overlap the other when closed I would think, which means the passive door has a bit more offset perhaps? Is the trim on the fixed door put right inside the grooved edge of the LP rather than overhanging? Can you explain the measurements again of the trim for each door where they meet when closed assuming both doors end up having equal width of trim? Trying to figure out the math especially with the 2 1/2" smaller frame on the passive door and then come up with my own measurements for frame, LP and trim for a 5ft wide x 6ft wide opening with proper clearances all around. I'm also thinking instead of that 45 degree notch cut for opening the doors, what if you cut the horizontal boards shorter to match the ends of the vertical frame, then extend the 2x4 that's sideways up into that space instead. Let me know if that makes sense.
So the top and bottom trim on both doors is 36 3/4". The fixed door trim where both doors come together is set in an inch. The passive door trim overhangs the frame 1 1/4". So the passive door trim overlaps the fixed door when both are closed. The side trim on both doors overlap 1 1/4". Hope that helps.
We do the notch to keep 2 full 2x4s for the framing where the doors come together.
Great and helpful video! What would you recommend for the bottom of the doors if there is a ramp level with the shed floor?
I do not recommend having the ramp flush because when it rains with wind water can blow under the doors. I can get you a product that is a bracket you hang under the door that has 2 height settings that will allow you to have ramps with a lip when doors are closed however when doors are open you can lift them to make it flush when you need it flush. Let me know.
Thanks! I would be interested in this product! Please let me know what information you need from me.
Here is the link to ramp parts. This is our affiliate link click on it and you are looking for ramp brackets and the DIY kits. They also have brackets and ramp hooks for wood ramps as well on here. Let me know how it goes.
shedramps.com/?ref=681
Did you ever make the video on how you make your trim? If so what did you title it?
I have not. However I should be able to knock that out and upload it soon. I will send you an update when I do.
Here you go, I just uploaded it this evening. Let me know what you think and please share away.. th-cam.com/video/mV4EAP5AaVQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wOAsnyIasx-mAL56
@@oldelibertystructures5401just watched your trim video and will be using that technique as well.
First off, thank you for sharing your knowledge! Where do you buy your hardware?
We buy it in bulk because we use it for building our sheds and we also resell it on our Shed lot. I can sell you a door handle, spring latches, hinges, windows etc. If you need anything.
You're welcome for sharing the knowledge and thank you for watching. I will be releasing some more videos soon on shed building.
Is there any other areas of shed building that you are interested in learning more of?
@oldelibertyshedsstructures5401 I am building a shop for a customer. He was going to do an 8' roll up door but changed his mind. He asked me to build him a set of doors like the ones in this video, but changed his mind again. Now, I'm installing a set of double exterior doors.
Should one use 8” hinges for a 36” door wide by 84 1/2 tall. Thanks!!
You can use a 6 inch gate strap hinge. Strap is 6 inches
Doing this method, what would you do to have an extra layer of sealing? For example to keep the gap tight enough not to allow mice in.
You can use weather stripping along the bottom.
You can also cut small blocks of siding and liquid nail to the door to fill and gaps where trim doesn't seal all the way.
That’s complicated for me. I wish I could hire someone to build that for me. I have a problem with nesting animals in my shed because the doors don’t shut all the way, uugghhh. Great job tho, I enjoyed watching and learning about how that’s done.
No problem. Where do you live?
I don't understand how the door trim lines up with the outer trim. If you have the door trim attached to the overhang, won't that make it extend beyond the outer trim? You have an extra thickness when you put the door trim over that 1 1/4 smart siding extension.
The LP smartside sheathing is flush on the sides of the door frame on both doors. The only thing that overlaps is the trim onto the fixed door. Did that help?
Did that answer your question?
Sorry if you didn’t mention this because it should be obvious, but did you start by hanging the full sheets on the shed and then cut the door panels out?
You can do that or use full sheets.
One other question. What is the recommended vertical rough opening for these shed doors? Or how much spacing do you recommend above and below the door fames?
77.5 inches is the header height and 72 inches is the width. When you add a 2x4 flat below the header it will be then 76 inches high.
Thanks! Just to verify, 76 inches is the vertical rough opening height?
When you attach the hinges to the frame casing, how much of a space do you leave between the vertical door trim and the casing on the frame, so that when the doors open and close the hinges don’t bind? In the video it looks about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
1/8-1/4 will work.
Thank you. Also, it looks like you cut your 2x4’s to be 1” less than the rough opening for both the height and the width. Is that correct? I’m assuming the overhang on the LP and trim cover up that space, while also allowing there to be plenty of clearance for the doors to open and close. From the video, it looks like you said you left 3/4 of an inch on the bottom and then roughly 1/4 of an inch on the top, of space between the 2x4 door frames and the wall studs/bottom of header. Thanks for your help as I’m going to try to build similar doors this next week.
I meant a total of 1” width and height less. Height R.O. = 76, boards cut at 72+1.5+1.5=75. With the total width also being 1” less, is that correct?
Does the gap between the top trim of the door and the casing seen 26:09 here cause water to ingress?
We do not have any issues with it. The eave of the shed roof helps to keep water from there. Now if you don't have eaves or overhangs on your roof I suggest cutting a strip of lp trim with a 5 degree back cut the length of the top casing on the building and about 2 inches wide and attach it and caulk on top of the casing to act as a Drip edge. It would sit on the lip the top casing creates when attached to the building.
Good video but is that water tight or do we need to do an extra thing to waterproof it?
We rip a piece of 2" wide by however long you top trim case is out of a piece of LP trim with a 2 degree long rip. We then nail and caulk that above the door casing to serve as a drip edge.
Almost done building my shed and will be building a single 4’ wide door by 6’ tall using this method. Does the door open flat against the shed?
Yes it opens flat except for the door handle of course will hit the wall.
@@oldelibertystructures5401 perfect just what I want, your video popped up just in time. New subscriber now 👍🏻
@@craig156 I am editing a video on building a storage loft and will be uploading it in the morning. I am also working on a shed building series. Let me know if you need any shed hardware. We sell hinges, door knobs, spring latches and door magnets as well and ship in the US. Thank you for the subscribe!!
@@oldelibertystructures5401one more question, why did you make door 75” when you had 76” opening. Isn’t that too much of a gap? I saw you put 3/4 “ spacer on bottom.
No it isn't because the trim on the doors overlaps the rough opening of the building. The smaller door frames allow it not to rub the building framing.
How did you get the measurements for the 2x4's and LP? I have a 48w x 88 1/4" high rough opening. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video. I have watched it a bunch of times before starting. My rough opening is 48"w x 86 1/2" high. Any help with cut sizes for that opening would be great. Thanks again.
Let me look into that for you when I get into the office.
Sorry for the late response, it had been hectic. Ok so as far as the door height goes the LP Smartside overhangs will be the same no matter what as well as the trim overhangs for the door. So the 1.5 inch overhangs at the bottom are the same the side overhangs and the top etc. The door height of your rough opening is 86.5 (your original said 88.5?) than your overall height of doors will be 1 inch less at 85.5 your side 2x4s will be 3 inches less than at 82.5. Your fixed door top and bottom 2x4 will be 22 3/4" and your passive door top and bottom 2x4 will be 24" . Basically the overall door height will always be 1" shorter than the rough opening, this even includes if you add a flat 2x4 to your rough opening under the header on the building like we do in the video, that clearance from the floor to that flat 2x4 is considered the rough opening clearance, so the total finished rough opening. So the door height is 1" less than the rough opening. The doors will overall will be 1.25" in width less than the rough opening width combined. The difference in width of the door sections fixed is 1.25" narrower than the passive door. So I took 86.5" and subtracted 1 inch and came up with 85.5" overall frame height and I tool 48" and subtracted 1.25" and got 46 3/4" and divided that by 2 making 23 3/8". The fixed door frame is 1.25" smaller than the passive so I divided 1.25" in half and that makes 5/8". So I subtracted 5/8" from 23 3/8 - 5/8= 22 3/4" for the fixed door and 23 3/8+5/8 = 24" for the passive. I hope this helps.
@@darrindisimo7067 Did my reply help?
I don’t know about him, but it helped me. Thanks