One door would be wayyyy too big and have to swing open way away. Would be obnoxious. I used to have the one top open roll up door. Those work fine. Mine broke. Like opening a door much better than pulling it open.
You can order a new roll up door thru Home Depot for 410.00 delivered to the store. I just did. It is quite simple to put together and install, much less labor than building one. Don't get me wrong, I like the wood doors too. I just wanted to share another option for some of your viewers. You can order the door in any color at no extra charge. I ordered a 4x6'8" for 410.00 I like your shed btw👍
A good option! I could not find one there that fit my dimensions and my wife hates the roll up. Also dont like how it sits inside the frame. Moisture gets onto the plywood bottom all the time.
@@AllHomeDIYDadI poured a slab for mine. Yeah it wouldn't be as good for a plywood deck. I built mine 12x16. Knowing where the door would go I put a very slight slope to that area.
As well as your doors keeping out water, it is also important to me to keep out those annoying mice that leave droppings and urine on things and chew on everything else. No mice in my sheds. One way to stop rodent invasion is to leave no gap greater than 1/4" (or one that can easily be chewed larger to 1/4"). Therefore I would increase the overlap of your door at the bottom to at least 1/2". In your case that would mean lowering the outside ramp a little. Not sure about the sides of the doors, but that can also be made mouse-proof by adding pieces so that there is no gap over 1/4"
When you say overlap, you mean the door goes on the outside of the actual floor and there is a lip to walk into the shed from the ramp? Maybe something that can be done at the time of the build but this is retro fit and is mounted to the outside of the shed opening. Has to sit inside the framing. But great points. I spray my inside and outside of the shed for critters to try to prevent that. I think ive got 1/4” or less all around out of luck!!
@@AllHomeDIYDad -- I'm no expert on the subject, but I'm working on it. The last shed I built (to store stuff at a rental property) I made sure the front "skin" of the door went down past floor level. I also put in stops for the sides and top of the door. When shut it's reasonably sealed and I haven't had mice after 4 years. Also extending the front of the door past floor level will direct rainwater past the floor rather than going inside. For a retrofit like this, if the gap at the bottom is too large, a "trim" piece could be installed inside. When the door is shut, from the inside attach this trim just a hair above the floor. Another way is to install a stop on the floor, maybe 1/2" thick for the door to press against. Of course you would be dragging/driving equipment over it and it might be a tripping hazard, which makes this my last choice. These ideas would stop mice but stopping water seepage could be more challenging. I'm now in the process of building a 12' x 16' garden shed at my house and the design is that the door panel material, which is the same as the siding, will be flush with the siding and thus an overlap at the floor will be tight against the floor framing and thus close it off to mice and rain. I'm also adding a small overhang above the door to divert rain away from the top of the door. I'm also doing a double door like you have, and making sure that one door overlaps the other where they meet. And just like you did, I'm also adding spring latches to top and bottom of the one door so that it is held tightly shut, with the door latch holding the other door tight. I see that some shed manufacturers in my area use long turnbuckles (like 50" threaded rod style made by Wright Products) mounted inside from the top and bottom corners diagonally to the door framing on the hinge side. The turnbuckles can be adjusted to make the door a flat plane rather than twisted. This seems like a reasonable and lighter-weight alternative to the extra panel on the inside of the door, and maybe cheaper too. Between TH-cam videos like yours and also visiting my local shed manufacturer, I've been able to glean more ideas to make my best shed ever. But I have to wait for the snow to melt first...
Fantastic planning. I like how your mind works. I dont really care too much about the bottom being under the door as the outside of the door does overlap the floor so it would be hard for water to get in that way. Also, I dont keep anything in there that I care too much about. Have a large garage I store anything expensive or with a motor/battery. Floor plywood can be replaced if it gets soft.
Grant, Thanks for lil your detail. Was very helpful in my design. Appreciate it.
You got it! Good luck!
Great tips and a simple design. Thank you.
Glad it was useful for you! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for taking time to make a detailed video on shed door replacement. Better to have too much detail than not enough.
You are welcome! I agree. Details are important. Even the seemingly small ones.
thanks for saying skilsaw
Lol is that the old term?
Nice doors! Thinking ya have FORT KNOX GOLD? Why 2 separate doors
One door would be wayyyy too big and have to swing open way away. Would be obnoxious. I used to have the one top open roll up door. Those work fine. Mine broke. Like opening a door much better than pulling it open.
Build Shed Doors Even When The Structure Is Out Of Square 😲😋🤗
Lol right!!!
You can order a new roll up door thru Home Depot for 410.00 delivered to the store. I just did. It is quite simple to put together and install, much less labor than building one. Don't get me wrong, I like the wood doors too. I just wanted to share another option for some of your viewers. You can order the door in any color at no extra charge. I ordered a 4x6'8" for 410.00
I like your shed btw👍
A good option! I could not find one there that fit my dimensions and my wife hates the roll up. Also dont like how it sits inside the frame. Moisture gets onto the plywood bottom all the time.
@@AllHomeDIYDadI poured a slab for mine. Yeah it wouldn't be as good for a plywood deck. I built mine 12x16. Knowing where the door would go I put a very slight slope to that area.
Thats awesome to have a slab under it!
As well as your doors keeping out water, it is also important to me to keep out those annoying mice that leave droppings and urine on things and chew on everything else. No mice in my sheds. One way to stop rodent invasion is to leave no gap greater than 1/4" (or one that can easily be chewed larger to 1/4"). Therefore I would increase the overlap of your door at the bottom to at least 1/2". In your case that would mean lowering the outside ramp a little. Not sure about the sides of the doors, but that can also be made mouse-proof by adding pieces so that there is no gap over 1/4"
When you say overlap, you mean the door goes on the outside of the actual floor and there is a lip to walk into the shed from the ramp? Maybe something that can be done at the time of the build but this is retro fit and is mounted to the outside of the shed opening. Has to sit inside the framing. But great points. I spray my inside and outside of the shed for critters to try to prevent that. I think ive got 1/4” or less all around out of luck!!
@@AllHomeDIYDad -- I'm no expert on the subject, but I'm working on it. The last shed I built (to store stuff at a rental property) I made sure the front "skin" of the door went down past floor level. I also put in stops for the sides and top of the door. When shut it's reasonably sealed and I haven't had mice after 4 years. Also extending the front of the door past floor level will direct rainwater past the floor rather than going inside. For a retrofit like this, if the gap at the bottom is too large, a "trim" piece could be installed inside. When the door is shut, from the inside attach this trim just a hair above the floor. Another way is to install a stop on the floor, maybe 1/2" thick for the door to press against. Of course you would be dragging/driving equipment over it and it might be a tripping hazard, which makes this my last choice. These ideas would stop mice but stopping water seepage could be more challenging.
I'm now in the process of building a 12' x 16' garden shed at my house and the design is that the door panel material, which is the same as the siding, will be flush with the siding and thus an overlap at the floor will be tight against the floor framing and thus close it off to mice and rain. I'm also adding a small overhang above the door to divert rain away from the top of the door. I'm also doing a double door like you have, and making sure that one door overlaps the other where they meet. And just like you did, I'm also adding spring latches to top and bottom of the one door so that it is held tightly shut, with the door latch holding the other door tight. I see that some shed manufacturers in my area use long turnbuckles (like 50" threaded rod style made by Wright Products) mounted inside from the top and bottom corners diagonally to the door framing on the hinge side. The turnbuckles can be adjusted to make the door a flat plane rather than twisted. This seems like a reasonable and lighter-weight alternative to the extra panel on the inside of the door, and maybe cheaper too. Between TH-cam videos like yours and also visiting my local shed manufacturer, I've been able to glean more ideas to make my best shed ever. But I have to wait for the snow to melt first...
Fantastic planning. I like how your mind works. I dont really care too much about the bottom being under the door as the outside of the door does overlap the floor so it would be hard for water to get in that way. Also, I dont keep anything in there that I care too much about. Have a large garage I store anything expensive or with a motor/battery. Floor plywood can be replaced if it gets soft.