This was a perfectly done how-to video...perfect. No fluff chatter, no distracting music or silly video tricks. Just clean solid information. I’ve got some decent sized barn doors to replace and you’ve made it into a doable project for one man. Thank you.
40+ years farming and building.. having a "how have I not figured this out myself" moment... Brilliant!!! Thanx for sharing. This gets filed into that 📂 of "work smart, not hard"..
This is true genius. I am going to use this method to make my garage doors. I am a senior on a limited budget and do projects by myself. This I can do; no heavy lifting. You are awesome!
I've been researching barn doors for my carport and finding the 18 foot bypass hardware has been tricky. These look great and so much easier. Thank you !
Great step by step! As someone who wants to tackle such projects when we build, and not coming from a family background where these kinds of things were done, I greatly appreciate the simple and straightforward process. Thank you! Subscribed!
Using your techniques, in one week my son and I replaced the ancient, creaking overhead doors on two cockeyed suburban NJ garages that hadn't seen a car in decades. My son used ceder for his doors. They look fantastic. Bottomless thanks!
Thank you for those instructions on building the doors in place. I have just completed a couple of 3x1,5 meter doors, and thanks to building them like this, there was no sag, and I can have minimal clearence to get them to seal up for a insulated winter garage. I had professional gates, but decided to build to make full use of the height by building doors, also they fit the esthetics of the farm better 🙌🏻 The only difference was that i wanted panel on the outside as well to insulate them, so i fastened the structure to the framing first, laid panel at the front, and then installed the hinges, and released the screws from the structure, with only one bolt on each arm of the hinge, and then fitted the rest. Perfect fitting! 👌🏻
Amazing process you've shown. This is excellent information for a Novice like me who is needing to build double doors for my newly constructed Greenhouse. I wanted to do them myself but have been hugely intimidated by the task. This is absolutely what I needed to see. Thanks for sharing!!!
FANTASTIC video! I see old barns around here & wonder how the old timers could have lifted them massively heavy doors into place? Now I know. Thanks for sharing this!
Been watching so many door-building videos with pocket holes, glue, clamps and so much complication and this video just blew my mind. So glad I stumbled across this. I knew their had to be an easy, simple way. Thanks!
My elders taught me differently... {Maybe better...?! Who knows?!} Of course getting the load bearing surfaces of the pintles as level as possible to each other is essential. As best I can tell, he did a very good job with that. My methodology... Barn doors should always swing out! Level the 2x6 rails & hinge straps (yours are oblique*), then drill all holes in the hinges through the 2x6 rails. Insert bolts in all the holes (to keep the hinges in position). You only need to put one bolt all the way through with a nut & washer on the hinge at this point, (like you did). Leave all the other bolts flush to the face of the 2x6 rails. {I install all the bolts w/ nuts, washers and thread-locker. I then cut any excess bolt off for the lowest profile possible at the nut. As I lay on planking I counter bore each nut location in the planking and 'hide' the nuts behind the boards. It looks better and prevents tampering with the nuts. Lay out and transfer the "reveal" gap to both sides of the 'Title' (top) Rail and the 'Channel' (bottom) Rail. There is method to this madness... Read on. Now is when you want to mark the braces! They can be temporarily attached to the rails for marking as demonstrated, however by marking the braces at this point you can easily scribe the braces directly to fit the rails very accurately without using a "90 degree pencil". You can install the braces now or later as you wish. I choose to install the braces at this point by placing one long screw through each toe of the braces to hold them in place as I lay on planking. Also you can better see where to install the brace screws as you lay on the planking. (i.e. - No chalk-line to stain the wood!) If you did not choose to hide the nuts & bolts behind the face boards; after installation of the face boards, remove each hinge bolt in-turn, drill through the face boards and re-install the bolts. Proceed to finish the door as demonstrated. Some may choose a different method of separating the door panels at the "reveal". I use a sharp hand saw for better accuracy. It just looks better. Gravity - Not the 2x6 holds the hinges in the down position. They can be in any position you configure the bolt holes to, when you drill the 2x6. * The hinges should not be "in the downward position" 2:30. That puts all the load on a very small surface area. Doing so causes rapid and uneven wear on the eye of the gudgeon (strap) causing it to squeak much sooner and to increase the 'slop' prematurely. The gudgeon eye should bear full length on the vertical and horizontal surfaces of the pintle. Not just one small spot at the top, bottom and underneath. Also it is not very aesthetic with the hinges being out of parallel with the centerline of the rails. Again - It just looks better done well. 1
Watched this video a couple yrs ago and liked it so much I went out bought the lumber I needed tore off the old barn doors and built a set just like these and they still hang perfectly what a great idea building the doors then cutting the main two boards last for a set of doors that match up perfectly . What an easy build too👏 thank you so much for sharing 👍
I just used your instructions to build doors on a tractor shed. My only change was corrugated metal roofing instead of boards for the back. They turned out amazing. Thanks for sharing!
I've been watching DIY videos on TH-cam for years, and this video blog is one of the best I've ever watched. I have an old doorless garage that I've been wanting to put a secure door on for years and this video has shown me exactly how to do it. Congratulations on a wonderfully helpful video.
Thank you! I’ve been wanting to make doors for my old doorless garage for years but the job just seemed too daunting and too expensive to tackle. With your video, I know I can build them now! Yey!
Genius. Been trying to figure out the best way to build some doors on my garage/shed. This is it. The less math and figuring the better and quicker the result to get it in one go. Thank you
Best video I’ve seen so far on building doors, I’ll apply this technique to the double shed doors I need to build for my mother-in-law! Thanks for the awesome video.
ASDF , Thanks so much for watching! It’s not bad at all. Take your time and you will be pleased with the results. If you haven’t, check out the other videos on my channel. Lots of different ideas and info on different topics from here in Lancaster County PA. Thanks again and good luck!
I'm so glad that I came across your video. I'm planning on replacing a metal up and over garage door with a pair of timber one's, and watching this ingenious method has given me a better idea of how I'm going to tackle it. Thankyou for taking the time to post this, and best wishes from Northern Ireland 👍🇬🇧
Sir, I owe you for this video. I own a 100+ year old building with a barndoor and I need to build it on my own. This shows exactly what I need to do. Much appreciated!
Thank you for making this video. I just built a greenhouse and I was trying to come up with an idea on what to do with the large opening I have for the entrance. Your door plan is exactly what I needed to complete my project and make the opening closed and useful. Building the door this way is such a great idea since the width of the door is so wide. The details were great and on point. Good job.
I used this approach on a barn with a 180 inch opening. I used 2x6 rails and diagonal bracing with cedar board facing. A total of 2 strap hinges on each door, each strap 48 inches long. When I cut the center, no sag. The approach worked for me. Glad I found this video.
I'm late to the party! Nice video. Really helped me think this out. I think if you had inverted the top pin -- not only would the door not come off (as others mentioned) -- but the straps could be straight. I think the inversion of the top pin prevents the door from "tilting" due to the "sag" in the hinge that you illustrated. In order to invert the pin you would have to have a temporary board to hold the two horizontal boards in place. All that said, this was one of the few videos I really enjoyed watching.
I'm nearly 80 years old and been doing this since childhood considered a professional by all who know me. I am detail oriented and highly critical. My hat is humbly off to you. Besides the obviously best technique ( and like the other guy said "why didn't I ever think of this) I am now properly schooled. I plan to watch your every video to see what else I can learn. Currently building ( and allways am) more barns and out buildings. Thank you for sharing your skills. I have seen no equal. Dandahermit
You seriously have no idea how happy I am that I just stumbled across your video. My Dad is no longer able to care for the farm and the maintenance is left up to me. There are 4 large barn doors that need replacing and daily I will look at them and wonder how. After seeing your video I now know! Thank you for posting this! 😀
Little late finding this one - great method and I will be using that to add doors to my shed this summer. Only change I'd make is holding off on that last board until after the other two carriage bolts are installed - then I'd take out the first carriage bolt and add the last board and put that bolt back in through both boards instead of drilling the board to go over the bolt so that all the bolts are consistent in their look and finish. Rubbing the chalk line on the back of the board!! Such a great hack!!!
Personally I always put the finished side out and never never swing a door in. The first barn door 🚪 I build some 50 years ago I swung then in and the owner couldn’t close the doors when he put his boat in the barn. Swinging them out comes with its own set of problems and you have to make sure the door can swing clear without binding against the jamb and it needs to swing a full 180 just in case the wind catches it and breaks your door stop. Also you can’t open the doors after a snow storm until you shovel.I have collected some old barn door hardware that catches the door and holds it open until you release it. Having said that your engineering is excellent for the homeowner. Just saying.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. We just prefer the bracing out as it’s more traditional in our area. The doors do swing out. I put a stop in hanging off the top plate to keep them from swinging in at all. Hope you have a great day!
Thank you for this video!!! Following your build-in-place method, just completed hinged carriage doors for my basement, for a 9 x 7 opening. They're made from 4 old hollow core doors. Very pleased. And yes, they do indeed open and close 🤣!
Nice! Thanks for the education! Two things I see that may be an improvement. Finish the lumber before building Bolt on the door with the other 2 bolts before the last panel is installed. Remove the first bolt, attach the last panel, drill the holes for the first bolt and reinstall the bolt.
Measuring without a tape measure is preferable. How many times did he use the tape measure. Now imagine building these doors to hang them later.!!! Brilliant technique. Subscribed
Smartest thing I've seen today. Building one big door and cutting it in half ensures everything works properly AND saves a tremendous amount of work. Mind blown.
Thank you for such a cool video! I keep watching it over and over; first of all you picked a beautiful day to film, and second the barn is awesome. I'm building doors like this for my carport thanks to your very well made and easy to follow advice! Q: Are those front boards 6" or 8" wide?
Thank you so much for making this video. I made barn doors for my garage based on your work. I could not have done it without this video. You should have been a shop teacher! Thanks again!
Thank you. I'm 73 and built one of two, 9' x 8' doors I need this past Saturday, by myself. Propably would have gotten the second one started that same day if I hadn 't had to go back to the hardware store to exchange the wrong size carriage bolts I bought. Was skeptical when it came time to cut them apart, but the saw didn't bind and the doors didn't sag and they opened, remarkable! The hardest part was finding the tongue and grove boards (at a price I could afford), other than that, it went just like your video.
My elders taught me differently... {Maybe better...?! Who knows?!} Of course getting the load bearing surfaces of the pintles as level as possible to each other is essential. As best I can tell, you did a very good job with that. My methodology... Barn doors should always swing out! Level the 2x6 rails & hinge straps (yours are oblique*), then drill all holes in the hinges through the 2x6 rails. Insert bolts in all the holes (to keep the hinges in position). You only need to put one bolt all the way through with a nut & washer on the hinge at this point, (like you did). Leave all the other bolts flush to the face of the 2x6 rails. {I install all the bolts w/ nuts, washers and thread-locker. I then cut any excess bolt off for the lowest profile possible at the nut. As I lay on planking I counter bore each nut location in the planking and 'hide' the nuts behind the boards. It looks better and prevents tampering with the nuts. Lay out and transfer the "reveal" gap to both sides of the 'Title' (top) Rail and the 'Channel' (bottom) Rail. There is method to this madness... Read on. Now is when you want to mark the braces! They can be temporarily attached to the rails for marking as demonstrated, however by marking the braces at this point you can scribe the braces directly to fit the rails very accurately without using a "90 degree pencil". You can install the braces now or later as you wish. I choose to install the braces at this point by placing one long screw through each toe of the braces to hold them in place as I lay on planking. Also you can better see where to install the brace screws as you lay on the planking. (i.e. - No chalk-line to stain the wood!) If you did not choose to hide the nuts & bolts behind the face boards; after installation of the face boards, remove each hinge bolt in-turn, drill through the face boards and re-install the bolts. Proceed to finish the door as demonstrated. Some may choose a different method of separating the door panels at the "reveal". I use a sharp hand saw for better accuracy. It just looks better. Gravity - Not the 2x6 holds the hinges in the down position. They can be in any position you configure the bolt holes to, when you drill the 2x6. * The hinges should not be "in the downward position" 2:30. That puts all the load on a very small surface area. Doing so causes rapid and uneven wear on the eye of the gudgeon (strap) causing it to squeak much sooner and to increase the 'slop' prematurely. The gudgeon eye should bear full length on the vertical and horizontal surfaces of the pintle. Not just one small spot at the top, bottom and underneath. Also it is not very aesthetic with the hinges being out of parallel with the centerline of the rails. Again - It just looks better done well.
Thanks for watching and the suggestions. I am never too proud to try different methods! The doors do swing out. They also would swing in a bit if I didn't put a stop in hanging off the top plate of the shed.
Yes I agree with your comment about not fastening the hinge strap in the "droopy" position. It causes the load to bear on points instead of surfaces. However!!! To avoid sag in the doors when you cut them apart: The bottom strap&eye's (the gudgeons) need to be pushed *apart* from the centreline of the door before drilling and fastening to the rail, so the inner surface is bearing on the pintle. Opposite for the upper gudgeons which need to be pulled *towards* the centreline. That way the slop is taken out of the assembly, and the doors won't sag because the correct bearing surfaces are already in contact.. But yes, level them up, it looks much better and the whole surface is taking the load.
Thanks for watching and glad your doors worked out for you. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/national-hardware-n235-309-15-bar-holder-zinc-plated-3540059?store=178&cm_mmc=feed-_-GoogleShopping-_-Product-_-3540059&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5fGC1bmk7gIVZ-bjBx2c7QkqEAQYBiABEgJHlPD_BwE I mounted these on the sides of the doors and I drop a 2x4 in. I had to build up the middle to set against the door because my doors are inset.
Wow, thanks so much. I have experience building shops, tractor sheds. I never knew of this amazing way to build doors to have them come out so square and true. Just completed building double doors for one end of my Fifth wheel storage building. I followed your video to the letter. Only difference I used metal. The two doors span 18’. Each door is 13’6” tall 9’ wide. Following your video made Building the doors so simple and square. I must admit I was a little nervous as I was cutting the two doors apart. Amazing, neither door dropped even a 1/8”. Anyone can build a doors using these instructions. Don’t hesitate, just do it, you won’t regret it.
The smell is great isn’t it? I think I may have found something better though...I was making a video this morning of a mobil grain roaster. The smell of roasted soybeans is pretty darn good!
This is an amazing video. I’m so thankful that it came up in my search to find swinging doors for my post barn. And thankful for you. I’m building almost the exact same barn for tractor and feed! Have a blessed day!
Have you never seen hinges work before? Did you not expect the doors to swing? I’ll be sure to make a video of doors swinging just for you. I’ve never read such a stupid comment before. Remarkable.
Hey good point. I didn't see the doors open either!! ....so I suspect some monkey business here...some smoke and mirrors...some TH-cam shennagans! . I have a hunch the doors open "inside'" instead of "out" and thats why we didn't see the final result! I want my money back :) Hey....We're just playin' with you Garden Spot builder. :0 Good video. PS: My last swinging gate was built with those $40 brackets that guarantee an even non-saggy door for us non-builders. but it would have been nice to see them open hahaha:) thats called the "money shot" in some video businesses:)
@@LancoAmish Wow - you must be a real charmer with your wife. Do you call her stupid immediately whenever she asks a question? Good thing I read this - I am unsubscribing and stopping this video right now. Much better builds out there without buck tooth gaps you can fit an entire hand through. Remarkable.
Great job. Building both at the same time seems like a no-brainer after watching you do it. Why I never thought of it before is beyond me. I have always been thought of as a pretty smart fella. Wait until I unload this trick the next time I help a friend with a set of barn doors. Thanks for the lesson. That is brilliant.
this is how i made my first set of barn doors. I didnt know it was a thing haha, few years later im watching to see if i can pick up new tricks, i enjoyed the video. work smarter not harder
You sir are a genius! I have been really dreading putting some new barn doors in andtrying to organise getting help to lift them into place. I can build all of this solo on my own time. Thanks for a great video!
Im building a pergola/carport and now I know how to make front doors. Dont want a garage door, want more of a barn /shed door cause ill be using it to store firewood as well. Perfectly done Ive subscribed and liked.
I have no idea how I never thought of this. It is so obvious and so simple. So much easier than what I've done before. It took just a couple minutes for it to all click. Never stop learning!
Absolutely brilliant I’ve got to make some like this but I haven’t got a flat area to make them up this way you don’t have to make up and lift heavy doors on your own and there made to measure perfect thanks this is a good idea love it larrysullivan in London cheers
Thanks so much for watching! I know too well about not having flat areas for building as I used to live on a mountain. I think that caused one of my legs to be shorter than the other! 😂
I completed this project in 5.5 hours start to finish. I have to say I was skeptical, but wow did you deliver. Thank you for posting this valuable know how. Seriously thank you. Did it all for about $240.00 at Home Depot, way better than spending $600+ for some tacky basic garage door
Thanks for watching and commenting! I’m glad it worked out. The first time I saw this done I was helping on a pair of doors 24’ wide and 16’ tall. I was skeptical too!
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Week 4 Day 1 // PRX vs RRQ | GE vs GEN](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iIi2_04jGr0/mqdefault.jpg)
This was a perfectly done how-to video...perfect. No fluff chatter, no distracting music or silly video tricks. Just clean solid information. I’ve got some decent sized barn doors to replace and you’ve made it into a doable project for one man. Thank you.
Thanks for the nice comment. Good luck with your doors and thanks so much for watching.
40+ years farming and building.. having a "how have I not figured this out myself" moment... Brilliant!!! Thanx for sharing. This gets filed into that 📂 of "work smart, not hard"..
Thank you so much for watching!!
This is true genius. I am going to use this method to make my garage doors. I am a senior on a limited budget and do projects by myself. This I can do; no heavy lifting. You are awesome!
Thanks so much for watching. I deeply appreciate your time and kind words. Good luck on your build.
I've been researching barn doors for my carport and finding the 18 foot bypass hardware has been tricky. These look great and so much easier. Thank you !
I'm only four minutes in, and you've blown my mind. BRILLIANT technique! You've earned a subscriber in me.
Thanks for the kind words and the subscription. Have a great evening.
Great step by step! As someone who wants to tackle such projects when we build, and not coming from a family background where these kinds of things were done, I greatly appreciate the simple and straightforward process. Thank you! Subscribed!
Thanks so much. Check out my other videos. Lots of builds.
Using your techniques, in one week my son and I replaced the ancient, creaking overhead doors on two cockeyed suburban NJ garages that hadn't seen a car in decades. My son used ceder for his doors. They look fantastic. Bottomless thanks!
Thank you for those instructions on building the doors in place. I have just completed a couple of 3x1,5 meter doors, and thanks to building them like this, there was no sag, and I can have minimal clearence to get them to seal up for a insulated winter garage. I had professional gates, but decided to build to make full use of the height by building doors, also they fit the esthetics of the farm better 🙌🏻 The only difference was that i wanted panel on the outside as well to insulate them, so i fastened the structure to the framing first, laid panel at the front, and then installed the hinges, and released the screws from the structure, with only one bolt on each arm of the hinge, and then fitted the rest. Perfect fitting! 👌🏻
You, sir, are a life saviour! Need to build some large barn doors next week all by myself. This will make the job a lot easier. Thanks a lot!
Jean Ducheamps Thank you so much for watching. I appreciate your time! Glad the video could be of help. Have a great day.
Your a life saver. I can’t believe I was going to pre fabricate my door then hang them. This is way easier.
Dillon Kraus , glad the video can be of help.
same here, just looking to replace two 8' X 9' fiberglass roll up doors . wow brilliant.
Amazing process you've shown. This is excellent information for a Novice like me who is needing to build double doors for my newly constructed Greenhouse. I wanted to do them myself but have been hugely intimidated by the task. This is absolutely what I needed to see. Thanks for sharing!!!
Greetings from the UK. Wow! What a brilliant method. I imagine that a lot of tradesmen will be using this system when they get to learn about this.
FANTASTIC video! I see old barns around here & wonder how the old timers could have lifted them massively heavy doors into place? Now I know. Thanks for sharing this!
Thanks so much for watching. I really appreciate your time!
Been watching so many door-building videos with pocket holes, glue, clamps and so much complication and this video just blew my mind. So glad I stumbled across this. I knew their had to be an easy, simple way. Thanks!
Thank you so much for watching. Your time is valuable and I really appreciate it.
My elders taught me differently... {Maybe better...?! Who knows?!}
Of course getting the load bearing surfaces of the pintles as level as possible to each other is essential.
As best I can tell, he did a very good job with that.
My methodology... Barn doors should always swing out!
Level the 2x6 rails & hinge straps (yours are oblique*), then drill all holes in the hinges through the 2x6 rails. Insert bolts in all the holes (to keep the hinges in position). You only need to put one bolt all the way through with a nut & washer on the hinge at this point, (like you did). Leave all the other bolts flush to the face of the 2x6 rails. {I install all the bolts w/ nuts, washers and thread-locker. I then cut any excess bolt off for the lowest profile possible at the nut. As I lay on planking I counter bore each nut location in the planking and 'hide' the nuts behind the boards. It looks better and prevents tampering with the nuts.
Lay out and transfer the "reveal" gap to both sides of the 'Title' (top) Rail and the 'Channel' (bottom) Rail. There is method to this madness... Read on.
Now is when you want to mark the braces! They can be temporarily attached to the rails for marking as demonstrated, however by marking the braces at this point you can easily scribe the braces directly to fit the rails very accurately without using a "90 degree pencil". You can install the braces now or later as you wish.
I choose to install the braces at this point by placing one long screw through each toe of the braces to hold them in place as I lay on planking. Also you can better see where to install the brace screws as you lay on the planking. (i.e. - No chalk-line to stain the wood!) If you did not choose to hide the nuts & bolts behind the face boards; after installation of the face boards, remove each hinge bolt in-turn, drill through the face boards and re-install the bolts.
Proceed to finish the door as demonstrated.
Some may choose a different method of separating the door panels at the "reveal". I use a sharp hand saw for better accuracy. It just looks better.
Gravity - Not the 2x6 holds the hinges in the down position. They can be in any position you configure the bolt holes to, when you drill the 2x6.
* The hinges should not be "in the downward position" 2:30. That puts all the load on a very small surface area. Doing so causes rapid and uneven wear on the eye of the gudgeon (strap) causing it to squeak much sooner and to increase the 'slop' prematurely. The gudgeon eye should bear full length on the vertical and horizontal surfaces of the pintle. Not just one small spot at the top, bottom and underneath.
Also it is not very aesthetic with the hinges being out of parallel with the centerline of the rails. Again - It just looks better done well.
1
Watched this video a couple yrs ago and liked it so much I went out bought the lumber I needed tore off the old barn doors and built a set just like these and they still hang perfectly what a great idea building the doors then cutting the main two boards last for a set of doors that match up perfectly . What an easy build too👏 thank you so much for sharing 👍
I just used your instructions to build doors on a tractor shed. My only change was corrugated metal roofing instead of boards for the back. They turned out amazing. Thanks for sharing!
I’m so happy your doors turned out great and thank you so much for watching!
I've been watching DIY videos on TH-cam for years, and this video blog is one of the best I've ever watched. I have an old doorless garage that I've been wanting to put a secure door on for years and this video has shown me exactly how to do it. Congratulations on a wonderfully helpful video.
David Miracle , Thank you for watching! I really appreciate your time spent watching and the kind words. Have a great day.
Thank you! I’ve been wanting to make doors for my old doorless garage for years but the job just seemed too daunting and too expensive to tackle. With your video, I know I can build them now! Yey!
teresa kent-horns , I’m glad the video has helped you!! Thanks for watching!
Genius. Been trying to figure out the best way to build some doors on my garage/shed. This is it. The less math and figuring the better and quicker the result to get it in one go. Thank you
Excellent video. Appreciate you taking the time to share this awesome technique.
Best video I’ve seen so far on building doors, I’ll apply this technique to the double shed doors I need to build for my mother-in-law! Thanks for the awesome video.
Dan The Machinist, Thank you for watching! Good luck with your doors!
Put the bolts in from the other side !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have to do this soon for the first time in my life and you make it seem so simple! Thanks I’ll be using this method.
ASDF , Thanks so much for watching! It’s not bad at all. Take your time and you will be pleased with the results. If you haven’t, check out the other videos on my channel. Lots of different ideas and info on different topics from here in Lancaster County PA. Thanks again and good luck!
I'm really looking forward to remaking my gates using your method. Thank you for posting this.
I'm so glad that I came across your video. I'm planning on replacing a metal up and over garage door with a pair of timber one's, and watching this ingenious method has given me a better idea of how I'm going to tackle it. Thankyou for taking the time to post this, and best wishes from Northern Ireland 👍🇬🇧
Thank you for watching. Good luck!
Sir, I owe you for this video. I own a 100+ year old building with a barndoor and I need to build it on my own. This shows exactly what I need to do. Much appreciated!
Shyam Devadas , Thank you for watching! I’m glad the video was of help.
@@LancoAmish I'll post a picture and send you the link when I'm done. (Hopefully, in the fall.) Thanks again.
Well done, that was good thinking & so much less effort. Enjoyed it from Australia.
Thanks so much for watching and the comment. Stay safe!
Bloomin' brilliant. I'll build my doors for my new lean-to with this pattern/concept. You're also a fine instructor. Thanks much.
Thank you for making this video. I just built a greenhouse and I was trying to come up with an idea on what to do with the large opening I have for the entrance. Your door plan is exactly what I needed to complete my project and make the opening closed and useful. Building the door this way is such a great idea since the width of the door is so wide. The details were great and on point. Good job.
Thanks for watching and good luck!
This video was a huge help and will save me when I start my build this spring.
Kevin H , thanks a lot and good luck with your build.
I like the fact you told everything in detail, awesome work
33 years of teaching 7-8th graders was a lot of practice! Thanks so much for watching!
Great method for building large barn doors. Thank you for sharing!
Chessley Hulsey , Thanks for watching. Check out my channel for other videos and please subscribe if you like what you see. Have a great day!
I used this approach on a barn with a 180 inch opening. I used 2x6 rails and diagonal bracing with cedar board facing. A total of 2 strap hinges on each door, each strap 48 inches long. When I cut the center, no sag. The approach worked for me. Glad I found this video.
Thanks for watching and am glad the video was of help.
I'm late to the party! Nice video. Really helped me think this out. I think if you had inverted the top pin -- not only would the door not come off (as others mentioned) -- but the straps could be straight. I think the inversion of the top pin prevents the door from "tilting" due to the "sag" in the hinge that you illustrated. In order to invert the pin you would have to have a temporary board to hold the two horizontal boards in place. All that said, this was one of the few videos I really enjoyed watching.
This was a fabulous method of building and hanging doors! Thanks for your work with the video
Steven Waskewicz , Thank you for watching Steven. Have a great day!
I'm nearly 80 years old and been doing this since childhood considered a professional by all who know me. I am detail oriented and highly critical. My hat is humbly off to you. Besides the obviously best technique ( and like the other guy said "why didn't I ever think of this) I am now properly schooled. I plan to watch your every video to see what else I can learn. Currently building ( and allways am) more barns and out buildings. Thank you for sharing your skills. I have seen no equal. Dandahermit
Thank you so much for watching and the kind comment. I’m humbled because I’m sure you could school me in hundreds of things. Good day sir.
Wonderful concept! Just finished a heavy set of doors and used three hinges on each side. Beautiful!
Man, this was so satisfying to watch! Learned a bunch too!
Thanks for watching. Glad it was of help.
Fantastic!!!
What a great idea, thank you for sharing!
Definitely a super easy way to make these doors. 👍👍👍
Thanks so much for watching. I’m glad you found the video helpful.
You seriously have no idea how happy I am that I just stumbled across your video. My Dad is no longer able to care for the farm and the maintenance is left up to me. There are 4 large barn doors that need replacing and daily I will look at them and wonder how. After seeing your video I now know! Thank you for posting this! 😀
I’m so glad the video can be of help. Have a great evening.
Little late finding this one - great method and I will be using that to add doors to my shed this summer. Only change I'd make is holding off on that last board until after the other two carriage bolts are installed - then I'd take out the first carriage bolt and add the last board and put that bolt back in through both boards instead of drilling the board to go over the bolt so that all the bolts are consistent in their look and finish.
Rubbing the chalk line on the back of the board!! Such a great hack!!!
Great tip! It’s one of those “why didn’t I think of that” instances. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for watching. I appreciate your time. If you get a chance please check out my channel. Have a great day.
@@LancoAmish trtrrrrururyyyyytrrrrjrrrryrrrrrryrrrr
Personally I always put the finished side out and never never swing a door in. The first barn door 🚪 I build some 50 years ago I swung then in and the owner couldn’t close the doors when he put his boat in the barn. Swinging them out comes with its own set of problems and you have to make sure the door can swing clear without binding against the jamb and it needs to swing a full 180 just in case the wind catches it and breaks your door stop. Also you can’t open the doors after a snow storm until you shovel.I have collected some old barn door hardware that catches the door and holds it open until you release it. Having said that your engineering is excellent for the homeowner. Just saying.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. We just prefer the bracing out as it’s more traditional in our area. The doors do swing out. I put a stop in hanging off the top plate to keep them from swinging in at all. Hope you have a great day!
What a great idea! Thank you for sharing! Greetings from Austria
Thank you for this video!!! Following your build-in-place method, just completed hinged carriage doors for my basement, for a 9 x 7 opening. They're made from 4 old hollow core doors. Very pleased. And yes, they do indeed open and close 🤣!
Thanks for watching and I’m glad the doors worked for you! 🤣. Some people lost the whole point of that video. Some of the comments were pretty silly.
Nice! Thanks for the education!
Two things I see that may be an improvement.
Finish the lumber before building
Bolt on the door with the other 2 bolts before the last panel is installed. Remove the first bolt, attach the last panel, drill the holes for the first bolt and reinstall the bolt.
Thanks for watching and the suggestions. I appreciate your time!
Bingo! Was trying to 'splain the bolt thing quickly, then thought "never mind - most don't appreciate the small details that set good work apart"
Measuring without a tape measure is preferable. How many times did he use the tape measure. Now imagine building these doors to hang them later.!!! Brilliant technique.
Subscribed
Thanks so much for watching and subscribing!!
Smartest thing I've seen today. Building one big door and cutting it in half ensures everything works properly AND saves a tremendous amount of work. Mind blown.
Thank you so much! This is going to save so much time and frustration.
Timothy Chapman , Thanks for watching! Good luck with your doors.
I've finally found the way to build doors by myself...thank you!
Jill Burgraff-Miceli , Thanks for watching. I’m glad it could be of help.
Thank you for such a cool video! I keep watching it over and over; first of all you picked a beautiful day to film, and second the barn is awesome. I'm building doors like this for my carport thanks to your very well made and easy to follow advice! Q: Are those front boards 6" or 8" wide?
Thanks for watching! The boards are 8”
Thank you so much for making this video. I made barn doors for my garage based on your work. I could not have done it without this video. You should have been a shop teacher! Thanks again!
Thank you so much for watching and for the kind comment. Both are greatly appreciated!
Thank you. I'm 73 and built one of two, 9' x 8' doors I need this past Saturday, by myself. Propably would have gotten the second one started that same day if I hadn 't had to go back to the hardware store to exchange the wrong size carriage bolts I bought. Was skeptical when it came time to cut them apart, but the saw didn't bind and the doors didn't sag and they opened, remarkable! The hardest part was finding the tongue and grove boards (at a price I could afford), other than that, it went just like your video.
I’m so glad the door build worked out for you and thank you so much for watching and the nice comment.
My elders taught me differently... {Maybe better...?! Who knows?!}
Of course getting the load bearing surfaces of the pintles as level as possible to each other is essential.
As best I can tell, you did a very good job with that.
My methodology... Barn doors should always swing out!
Level the 2x6 rails & hinge straps (yours are oblique*), then drill all holes in the hinges through the 2x6 rails. Insert bolts in all the holes (to keep the hinges in position). You only need to put one bolt all the way through with a nut & washer on the hinge at this point, (like you did). Leave all the other bolts flush to the face of the 2x6 rails. {I install all the bolts w/ nuts, washers and thread-locker. I then cut any excess bolt off for the lowest profile possible at the nut. As I lay on planking I counter bore each nut location in the planking and 'hide' the nuts behind the boards. It looks better and prevents tampering with the nuts.
Lay out and transfer the "reveal" gap to both sides of the 'Title' (top) Rail and the 'Channel' (bottom) Rail. There is method to this madness... Read on.
Now is when you want to mark the braces! They can be temporarily attached to the rails for marking as demonstrated, however by marking the braces at this point you can scribe the braces directly to fit the rails very accurately without using a "90 degree pencil". You can install the braces now or later as you wish.
I choose to install the braces at this point by placing one long screw through each toe of the braces to hold them in place as I lay on planking. Also you can better see where to install the brace screws as you lay on the planking. (i.e. - No chalk-line to stain the wood!) If you did not choose to hide the nuts & bolts behind the face boards; after installation of the face boards, remove each hinge bolt in-turn, drill through the face boards and re-install the bolts.
Proceed to finish the door as demonstrated.
Some may choose a different method of separating the door panels at the "reveal". I use a sharp hand saw for better accuracy. It just looks better.
Gravity - Not the 2x6 holds the hinges in the down position. They can be in any position you configure the bolt holes to, when you drill the 2x6.
* The hinges should not be "in the downward position" 2:30. That puts all the load on a very small surface area. Doing so causes rapid and uneven wear on the eye of the gudgeon (strap) causing it to squeak much sooner and to increase the 'slop' prematurely. The gudgeon eye should bear full length on the vertical and horizontal surfaces of the pintle. Not just one small spot at the top, bottom and underneath.
Also it is not very aesthetic with the hinges being out of parallel with the centerline of the rails. Again - It just looks better done well.
Thanks for watching and the suggestions. I am never too proud to try different methods! The doors do swing out. They also would swing in a bit if I didn't put a stop in hanging off the top plate of the shed.
Yes I agree with your comment about not fastening the hinge strap in the "droopy" position. It causes the load to bear on points instead of surfaces. However!!! To avoid sag in the doors when you cut them apart:
The bottom strap&eye's (the gudgeons) need to be pushed *apart* from the centreline of the door before drilling and fastening to the rail, so the inner surface is bearing on the pintle. Opposite for the upper gudgeons which need to be pulled *towards* the centreline. That way the slop is taken out of the assembly, and the doors won't sag because the correct bearing surfaces are already in contact.. But yes, level them up, it looks much better and the whole surface is taking the load.
@@nil5221 9
I do like the rough side as the face. It lends a rustic look to the installation.
Awesome technique! I had planned to build doors someday on a property I own. I will definitely use your method! Thank you!
Thank you so much for watching. Please check out my other videos if you get a chance. Have a great evening.
I just finished my 7ft by 14 ft barn door project.
Couldn't have done without your video, Thanks !
Thanks for watching. I’m happy things turned out well. 🙂
Thanks so much for this. My 12’ door (6’ each side) came out great with 12” straps! Now what did you do for a latch?
Thanks for watching and glad your doors worked out for you.
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/national-hardware-n235-309-15-bar-holder-zinc-plated-3540059?store=178&cm_mmc=feed-_-GoogleShopping-_-Product-_-3540059&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5fGC1bmk7gIVZ-bjBx2c7QkqEAQYBiABEgJHlPD_BwE
I mounted these on the sides of the doors and I drop a 2x4 in. I had to build up the middle to set against the door because my doors are inset.
Sir, great video on how 1 guy, might be able to do it alone. Thanks
Johnnym556 , thank you for watching! I appreciate your time greatly.
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I feel confident if I had to I could do this completely by myself.
Wow, thanks so much.
I have experience building shops, tractor sheds. I never knew of this amazing way to build doors to have them come out so square and true.
Just completed building double doors for one end of my Fifth wheel storage building. I followed your video to the letter. Only difference I used metal. The two doors span 18’. Each door is 13’6” tall 9’ wide.
Following your video made Building the doors so simple and square.
I must admit I was a little nervous as I was cutting the two doors apart.
Amazing, neither door dropped even a 1/8”.
Anyone can build a doors using these instructions. Don’t hesitate, just do it, you won’t regret it.
Thanks so much for the kind comment. I’m glad your doors turned out so well!
Bit o' Genius bossman!!!
Ben Joseph , Thanks
11:00 I can smell the fresh cut lumber & saw dust.
The smell is great isn’t it? I think I may have found something better though...I was making a video this morning of a mobil grain roaster. The smell of roasted soybeans is pretty darn good!
Beautiful job. I will use your technique next summer when I add doors to my workshop. Great video excellent results.
Thanks so much for watching!!
This is an amazing video. I’m so thankful that it came up in my search to find swinging doors for my post barn. And thankful for you. I’m building almost the exact same barn for tractor and feed! Have a blessed day!
Thank you so much for watching and the kind comment. Good luck with your build.
Voting machine uses volkswagen car emissions software lol
just for diesel car emissions only.
Well, seeing a video making doors but never seeing the doors open and close is remarkable.
Have you never seen hinges work before? Did you not expect the doors to swing? I’ll be sure to make a video of doors swinging just for you. I’ve never read such a stupid comment before. Remarkable.
Loved the video might use your ideas but. Would have loved to see them open. Lmao. Great idea.
Hey good point. I didn't see the doors open either!! ....so I suspect some monkey business here...some smoke and mirrors...some TH-cam shennagans! . I have a hunch the doors open "inside'" instead of "out" and thats why we didn't see the final result! I want my money back :) Hey....We're just playin' with you Garden Spot builder. :0 Good video. PS: My last swinging gate was built with those $40 brackets that guarantee an even non-saggy door for us non-builders. but it would have been nice to see them open hahaha:) thats called the "money shot" in some video businesses:)
@@LancoAmish Wow - you must be a real charmer with your wife. Do you call her stupid immediately whenever she asks a question? Good thing I read this - I am unsubscribing and stopping this video right now. Much better builds out there without buck tooth gaps you can fit an entire hand through. Remarkable.
@@richardthelionheart01, bye.
Very nice video! I will build my first barn door following this. Thanks.
Great job. Building both at the same time seems like a no-brainer after watching you do it. Why I never thought of it before is beyond me. I have always been thought of as a pretty smart fella. Wait until I unload this trick the next time I help a friend with a set of barn doors. Thanks for the lesson. That is brilliant.
Thanks so much for watching!
Well done sir! So simple and so brilliant! Thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching. If you get a chance please check out my other videos. Have a great day.
Great! Good practical advice here. Thank you for teaching.
This was exactly what I needed! Thank you for doing the video!!
Thanks so much for watching!
Got our 2 huge barn doors done using your technique! They turned out amazing, thank you very much for your help!
Thanks for watching and dropping the comment. I’m glad the doors came out great!!
Absolutely Genius Simplicity!
Wow this can be applied in many things!
Thanks a lot for watching. I appreciate your time very much! If you get a chance check out my other videos on my channel.
That was terrific! I can tackle a barndoor now after your tutorial! Cheers!
Thanks so much for watching! I hope you have success.
this is how i made my first set of barn doors. I didnt know it was a thing haha, few years later im watching to see if i can pick up new tricks, i enjoyed the video. work smarter not harder
Excellent video. In fact i will try this approach very soon as it looks such a brilliant approach to making a pair of doors.
Beautiful building you are working on there!
Thank you very much for the kind comment and for spending your valuable time watching. I really appreciate both.
Thank you for a very good video! Instructive and simple to follow!
Very smartly done, nice work and thanks.
awesome job !! I can use this thank you for sharing your knowledge
T Rux , thanks for watching. Check out my other videos for other builds. Have a great day!
Perfect. Just built these today on an old shed thanks to this video. Feel like a pro!
Thanks for watching. Glad things worked out!
Good job. Thanks for sharing with us.
Using the chalk line to mark the cuts for the diagonal brace is a great tip I will use in the future. Many thanks!!!
Ingenious, thank you for this tip it’s going to save me so much time.
Thanks so much for watching and please give my channel a look see for other videos you might be interested in. Love your name too!!
You sir are a genius! I have been really dreading putting some new barn doors in andtrying to organise getting help to lift them into place. I can build all of this solo on my own time. Thanks for a great video!
Thank you for watching!
Those are perfect gates for the barn, great job!
Thanks so much for watching!!
This guy is a genius! I wish I watched this before doing my large fence/gate!
Im building a pergola/carport and now I know how to make front doors. Dont want a garage door, want more of a barn /shed door cause ill be using it to store firewood as well. Perfectly done Ive subscribed and liked.
Wow, that's the best technique I've seen . Thanks for posting this..
Thanks for watching I really appreciate your time and kind compliment!
This was very clear and interesting! Thank you for sharing your technique!
Thanks for watching!
You make this look so easy and had some great tricks, like hammering where the bolts were. Genius!!!
Thanks for watching and commenting. Both are greatly appreciated.
Genius, thanks much for sharing.
👏👏👏 gonna give it a shot! Thank you. Awesome.
Great idea. I will use it on car garage. Thank you 👍
Excellent! I now have a plan!
I have no idea how I never thought of this. It is so obvious and so simple. So much easier than what I've done before. It took just a couple minutes for it to all click. Never stop learning!
Thank you for watching and the kind comment!
love it. very simple. A project I will try very soon.
Fantastic. Thanks for all the information. Shed looks great too.
All the best from Australia.
Thanks for watching and leaving such a kind comment. Both are greatly appreciated!!
Absolutely brilliant I’ve got to make some like this but I haven’t got a flat area to make them up this way you don’t have to make up and lift heavy doors on your own and there made to measure perfect thanks this is a good idea love it larrysullivan in London cheers
Thanks so much for watching! I know too well about not having flat areas for building as I used to live on a mountain. I think that caused one of my legs to be shorter than the other! 😂
I completed this project in 5.5 hours start to finish. I have to say I was skeptical, but wow did you deliver. Thank you for posting this valuable know how. Seriously thank you. Did it all for about $240.00 at Home Depot, way better than spending $600+ for some tacky basic garage door
Thanks for watching and commenting! I’m glad it worked out. The first time I saw this done I was helping on a pair of doors 24’ wide and 16’ tall. I was skeptical too!