This 2000 Toyota Avalon had a sticking oil control valve causing the engine to misfire when warmed up as well as a check engine light. Here's how I fixed it.
I just wanted to say that i have watched many many many of your videos and EVERY SINGLE TIME i am thoroughly impressed with you methods, explanations, documentation, thoroughness and advice. So from one technician to another "Keep up the amazing work!". And most of all thank you for your 7+ years of contributions to this community.
It’s easy to Google the code and see what could be the problem and replace it , he didn’t diagnose at all , what if the solenoid was good ? I have seen guys who really explain how a particular system works , not just replace parts without testing
I have been working on cars for many years now, and come to find out these solenoids hardly go bad. The plunger often stuck due to dirty oil or cheap oil. After cleaned them out wit brake cleaner, they work as new again. Always use good oil and change oil regularly, you won't have any issue.
I don't want to speak too soon, but... You bloody legend. I pulled mine and gave it a some brake cleaner and a brush down with a nylon brush. And after driving it again, on a very cold engine. There is no shuddering anymore 👍
Just did this on my wife's RX300. One word of caution: Do not over tighten the 10 mm bolts. They will easily strip of break off. Snug and give a 1/8 - 1/4 turn is sufficient.
Good point. I've changes those valves and if you ever broke the head off of one of those bolts drilling and tapping the hole in the cylinder head would be an absolute nightmare. And if you screw it up the head would be junk.
Just had similar problem happen on 1997 Toyota Avalon. 256k miles and most all maintenance done. Always ran great and we gave the car to my wifes sister. After driving 300 miles and running prefect the next day engine running very rough and shaking. I'm not there to check it out but thanks to your video's I have a great most likely cause. Super thorough explanation and great video work.
Job well done indeed. 4 the first time I saw oil control valve or solernoid call it, causing check engine light n stalling... U learn new things every day!
Don't forget to clean or replace both oil control filters (OEM 15678-20010) located under 14mm bolts seen at 4:20, the socket is "pointing" to it on the other side of the top hose. There are 2 filters 1 for each control valve.
That's not a bad idea. However, when I went looking for the new filter screens no one had them, not even the local Lexus dealer. They told me they change the VVT-i oil control valves all the time but they never change the filters. I also talked to a few other people who said the same thing. Apparently no one ever changes them. So I just changed the two valves and the problem went away.
Dude, youtube recommended this video when I hadn't even searched for the problem with my van yet. AND NO JOKE!!! I hooked up the code reader and THIS IS IT!!! WTF?!? P1349 code!!! THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! And thank youtube and google for not just reading my mind. But somehow probing me for sht I didn't even know about yet!!!!!!! :D
Watched (3) different vids on this error, this was the best. Gave me the confidence to check both valves. Cleaned, tested on 12VDC input and reinstalled. Fixed the problem and the cascading misfire errors as well. Thanks!!
Thank you for a great video that's really well explained , it was one of the best on You Tube . I did not know where the VVT solenoids were on my Lexus ES 300 , your video helped answer that question You just saved me a lot of money and aggravation !!!!!
I have a 2000 avalon XLS. They are really wonderful cars, bought mine with 91k miles for $2500..ive driven it from New York to Vermont and back as well as several other trips, never had a break down. Just a typical lifter tick/rattle but the cars mint.
Love this video! I've watched sooo many videos and none have pointed this out. I think this is my issue with my Toyota. Ahh! I've watch videos for months and have thrown parts at it along the way.
Hey, thank you for taking the time to make this video. It made my research quite a bit easier and I will let you know if your video helps once I get these replaced on the car. Thank you kindly keep up the good work
i just want say thank you for zooming in and showing of them. ive watched couple videos only showing the one closest to the oil cap. now i can replace the other one tonight. on my wife youtube account. if it doesnt fix the issue im having ive got few other pointers from people but im at this point just throwing parts at it hoping it fixes the problem.
this was very helpful to me i have an is300 3sge an it had the same prob couldn't find the prob an after watching this video went an check the valves an 1 of them was BAD THANKS
Thank you very much, nice video. I have a 2000 Toyota Harrier, 1MZ-FE engine, just threw a P1349 code. Engine running slightly rough on idle, poor acceleration. Will check these 2 x Valves out tomorrow. Hopefully will solve my problem. !!!! 5 *****
Did a valve job on an rx300 6 months ago (looks the same as this video...1mzfe)...didn't touch the bottom end. Yesterday the oil light started randomly going on/off. Sometimes varying the rpm would have an affect, it seemed turning off/on the engine would make it go off for a bit. (Don't worry I've parked it until I have time to get to it...low oil pressure scares the poo out of me:) I decided to look for codes even though check engine light isn't on. Pulled a pending vvt bank 2. Also, I just changed the oil a day or 2 before this started(same brand...Valvoline high mileage10w20 synthetic blend) & fram superguard (or some such nonsense...read "Walmart special") filter. Oil still looks good & is full. I'm inclined to pull the oil pan & check the pickup for clogging (there was a ton of gunk/carbon in the top end) because I'm picturing getting fruit stuck in the straw in a smoothie. My question: do you think a blockage could be causing this or would you look somewhere else first?
You mentioned In the letter no recent work but the top of the maf is very clean and the Air filter although only seeing engine side looked super bright white clean. do you think he had tried a few things before you looked at it or am I crazy?
It happened to my 1999 Lexus ES300 (same engine as above Toyota) when it was 180K miles, had both valves replaced and fault went away. Wish I knew this sooner. Cost me about $300 total at the shop.
Daniel, i have 2001 dodge ram 1500 4*4 5.2l first start up in the mornings run like crap,the second start up after that runs just fine, only does it when it is cold out, No codes, could it be that idle air control valve? Joey from Statesville N.C. Enjoy all of your videos, and i learn from them all the time!
hey Daniel i have a 01 focus zetec with 422,xxx miles.orignal powertrain.its has an auto with full bright clean fluid.it has an intermittent shudder/ single cylinder misfire issue under light load conditions when od kicks on.i was thinking it needs new spark plugs.thoughts?
Same exact engine as my 2001 toyota highlander...very same milage 166 k...and same problem, though i also have air flow ratio sensor...shop wanted $1,600 to replace i bought parts for $250...gonna install in morning so Wish me luck 🙏
I have a similar problem like that and I took my vehicle to a mechanic and he says the timing chain got loose and needs to be replaced. Also the vehicle has acceleration problems and miss firing and a lot of smoke coming out when I hit the gas pedal. All this happened after I change the spark plugs and wires and oxygen sensor and fuel filter🤷🏽♂️ Now the vehicle is just sitting in the driveway not sure if I should fix it or not it’s a 1998 Toyota Avalon 228,000 miles what do you think?
Reply loved how you explained the issue and fix. However, I saw that you used an impact drill and not torque the bolts and can cause to strip them. Thank you for the information
ok so i have the code on and need the van, can i just disconect both of them till i can get parts and remove and replace tese valves when it warms up and i have a place to work?
my 2002 corolla is haiving the same issue, im trying to find where thr 2nd OCV is located. theres 1 located on the left side in the front but cant find the 2nd. im not even sure if this model and year will have 2
Daniel, great video. My Avalon is misfiring after running a bit/warming up. I however do not have a check engine light on. Could this still be a VVT solenoid? Or do you suspect a different culprit. I can hear a rattle (what seems towards the bottom of the engine or underneath front of the car. Any ideas? I've checked the vacuum lines and air intake hoses.
Chris Whitehead i have the same rattling noise in the front. I am replacing both OCVs this weekend but also my VSC lights are on as well. Dont know if its directly related to the actual vsc system or not..
I've replaced the oil control valve a week ago on my yaris just after an engine rebuild. Would a heavier oil such as a 20w50 cause the valve not to operate as normal. I did have an issue where there was a loss in power whilst driving and after replacing this it seems to occur usually on uphills. I previously used 5w30 and now using 20w50 just for the first 1000km. I was wondering if it could be a vvt gear that needs to be replaced or is it something else. There are currently no check engine lights that show up as well. Apologies for the long comment
To be honest in a modern car you should never use any oil other than exactly what the manufacturer specifies. The primary reason is that the tolerances between the metal parts inside modern engines are very tight. That's why they use the lighter oils that they do these days. Putting oil in there that is thicker than what the manufacturer calls for can cause wear issues at certain places inside the engine. And once that happens going back to the correct oil won't fix the problem. Instead you will be looking at a rebuild.
I was told that there are two oil filters inline supplying the oil to the OCV's sometimes those are clogged too. they are on the end of each head, behind a M17 bolt? supposedly they can be cleaned with some carburetor spray cleaner
Yes there are. However, when I went looking for the new filter screens no one had them, not even the local Lexus dealer. They told me they change the VVT-i oil control valves all the time but they never change the filters. I also talked to a few other people who said the same thing. Apparently no one ever changes them. So I just changed the two valves and the problem went away.
I have a question, I have the same code but also the oil light turned on. This all happened after changing the Catalytic converter in the front of the engine?
Is it possible for a VVT solenoid to be marginal and cause surging idle and surging acceleration but not throw a code? Those are the symptoms with my 2000 Avalon XLS. Car has 160k miles. Oil changed regularly w/ Mobil1 synthetic since new. Runs fine when cruising, but surges on acceleration, and has a slightly surging idle. Was displaying code for oxygen sensor on bank 1, along with some other codes. Changed o2 sensors on banks 1 and 2. Cleared codes. Now no codes displayed, but still has the surging issue. One thing I noticed was that the o2 sensor from bank 1 was quite dark with carbon deposits, but bank 2 sensor was relatively clean. I'm wondering if the VVT sensor on bank 1 has gotten a bit sticky and affected the valve timing which is would create less than ideal combustion that would put more soot into the exhaust and thus on the o2 sensor. Is it even possible for this to occur without it throwing a code for the VVT sensor? Any ideas?
Jeep may suggest 7000 mile oil changes, but they sell cars. Probably fine for the first 100000 miles, but it is never going to be a 300,000 mile engine. It does not cost much to change your oil every 3000 or so miles. If you are on the road alot and put alot of highway miles you probably can go longer. Some auto manufactures, so I have heard, no longer recommend changing the oil at 1000 miles, this was always done in the past to remove the inevitable metal particles in there from break in. Some times you have to use good ole common sense which, is, incredibly uncommon.
What is the tool setup that he is using at 4:10? I need to get a "flexible" socket setup like that...but not sure what it is. Anyone point me to what it is called...or better...links? THANKS!
I NEED to buy "slanted socket, (terribly important that I wish U could have remind us about having correct socket wrench, correction, bending wrench makes any job almost snap 2 take out n in!), brand name like that would have been MOST helpful indeed! I had 2 C closely the socket "bent" approximately 30 degree or less "slanted in SUCH tight space" n without "the slanted socket" I wonder how any tech can take those Oil Control valves?
Hello, please if you can solve the problem I have on my Auris Toyota year 2014, after repairing my CVT box, 3 weeks later, I have the Engine check with the ESP on, after scanning i got 2 error codes, P1047 and p264, please tell me the exact fault, please give me a reply, thanks again
No. That problem is caused by a problem inside the cam phasers themselves. There is a locking pin inside the phaser that is worn out. The pin is supposed to lock the phaser during start up when there is no oil pressure. If the car runs okay otherwise you might want to just live with the noise.
I just wanted to say that i have watched many many many of your videos and EVERY SINGLE TIME i am thoroughly impressed with you methods, explanations, documentation, thoroughness and advice. So from one technician to another "Keep up the amazing work!". And most of all thank you for your 7+ years of contributions to this community.
Puffalupagus360 is bank 1 the difficult one to access
It’s easy to Google the code and see what could be the problem and replace it , he didn’t diagnose at all , what if the solenoid was good ? I have seen guys who really explain how a particular system works , not just replace parts without testing
I have been working on cars for many years now, and come to find out these solenoids hardly go bad. The plunger often stuck due to dirty oil or cheap oil. After cleaned them out wit brake cleaner, they work as new again. Always use good oil and change oil regularly, you won't have any issue.
Thanks for the tip Glen. I'll give this a try. Might save €50. 👍.
My p1346 only occurs when the engine is cold, works like a champ when up to temp.
I don't want to speak too soon, but... You bloody legend.
I pulled mine and gave it a some brake cleaner and a brush down with a nylon brush. And after driving it again, on a very cold engine. There is no shuddering anymore 👍
1346 or 1349?
It's so easy when you know what you're doing! A pleasure to watch.
A great informative video. Knowledge is always a good thing even if it isn't applicable at the moment.
Man your videos are informative and really show you how to do it the right way. Keep the videos coming Daniel.
Just did this on my wife's RX300. One word of caution: Do not over tighten the 10 mm bolts. They will easily strip of break off. Snug and give a 1/8 - 1/4 turn is sufficient.
VERY helpful N important reminder n thank U so much indeed bro!
Good point. I've changes those valves and if you ever broke the head off of one of those bolts drilling and tapping the hole in the cylinder head would be an absolute nightmare. And if you screw it up the head would be junk.
Thanks Daniel. Good to know how and why these things exist and what the fix is. Much appreciated and please keep up the good work!!!!!
Just had similar problem happen on 1997 Toyota Avalon. 256k miles and most all maintenance done. Always ran great and we gave the car to my wifes sister. After driving 300 miles and running prefect the next day engine running very rough and shaking. I'm not there to check it out but thanks to your video's I have a great most likely cause. Super thorough explanation and great video work.
This is the best video I've seen explaining this problem..Thank you!
Job well done indeed. 4 the first time I saw oil control valve or solernoid call it, causing check engine light n stalling... U learn new things every day!
Don't forget to clean or replace both oil control filters (OEM 15678-20010) located under 14mm bolts seen at 4:20, the socket is "pointing" to it on the other side of the top hose. There are 2 filters 1 for each control valve.
are you sure there are two on each side ? i only see one oil control filter on each side please help
@@CR3ATiVE319 Communication failure. Houston Houston.
@@CR3ATiVE319 There is one filter inside each cylinder head.
That's not a bad idea. However, when I went looking for the new filter screens no one had them, not even the local Lexus dealer. They told me they change the VVT-i oil control valves all the time but they never change the filters. I also talked to a few other people who said the same thing. Apparently no one ever changes them. So I just changed the two valves and the problem went away.
Nice spot, I saw this once In a different video...now I know where to look. Thank you
Dude, youtube recommended this video when I hadn't even searched for the problem with my van yet. AND NO JOKE!!! I hooked up the code reader and THIS IS IT!!! WTF?!? P1349 code!!! THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! And thank youtube and google for not just reading my mind. But somehow probing me for sht I didn't even know about yet!!!!!!! :D
Thanks Daniel, great video that helped me understand my VVT solenoids!
Great concise video. Thanks for taking the time to film it.
Watched (3) different vids on this error, this was the best. Gave me the confidence to check both valves. Cleaned, tested on 12VDC input and reinstalled. Fixed the problem and the cascading misfire errors as well.
Thanks!!
How did you clean it? I might try that
Cleaning alone cleared the issue ?
Hey man, thanks for the video!! I’m gonna subscribe. First video I’ve seen but this tutorial fixed my issue on a Lexus is300. Thank you again!!!!
Helpful. You are good at explaining things.
love these avalons many memories with my grandmother as a child in her old one
Forgott3n - sounds kinda creepy....just sayin....
what the fuck dude
Thank you for a great video that's really well explained , it was one of the best on You Tube . I did not know where the VVT solenoids were on my Lexus ES 300 , your video helped answer that question You just saved me a lot of money and aggravation !!!!!
Great display of resolution to this issue, thanks!
I have a 2000 avalon XLS. They are really wonderful cars, bought mine with 91k miles for $2500..ive driven it from New York to Vermont and back as well as several other trips, never had a break down. Just a typical lifter tick/rattle but the cars mint.
Love this video!
I've watched sooo many videos and none have pointed this out. I think this is my issue with my Toyota. Ahh!
I've watch videos for months and have thrown parts at it along the way.
Great diagnosis and repair. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome! I'll keep an eye out for this on my 'Yota.
Hey, thank you for taking the time to make this video. It made my research quite a bit easier and I will let you know if your video helps once I get these replaced on the car. Thank you kindly keep up the good work
Nice shots of the work. Thanks for the good vids.. keep up the good work.
Great information by someone who knows what their talking about
Top notch video!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Nice... I learned a bit more about VVT system, thanks
i just want say thank you for zooming in and showing of them. ive watched couple videos only showing the one closest to the oil cap. now i can replace the other one tonight. on my wife youtube account. if it doesnt fix the issue im having ive got few other pointers from people but im at this point just throwing parts at it hoping it fixes the problem.
this was very helpful to me i have an is300 3sge an it had the same prob couldn't find the prob an after watching this video went an check the valves an 1 of them was BAD
THANKS
Thank you very much, nice video. I have a 2000 Toyota Harrier, 1MZ-FE engine, just threw a P1349 code. Engine running slightly rough on idle, poor acceleration. Will check these 2 x Valves out tomorrow. Hopefully will solve my problem. !!!! 5 *****
Really helped! Thanks my man!
awesome work brother! you just earned a subscriber
Very helpful video. Thank you very much!!
Super Well Done! Thanks Dan!
Did a valve job on an rx300 6 months ago (looks the same as this video...1mzfe)...didn't touch the bottom end. Yesterday the oil light started randomly going on/off. Sometimes varying the rpm would have an affect, it seemed turning off/on the engine would make it go off for a bit. (Don't worry I've parked it until I have time to get to it...low oil pressure scares the poo out of me:)
I decided to look for codes even though check engine light isn't on. Pulled a pending vvt bank 2.
Also, I just changed the oil a day or 2 before this started(same brand...Valvoline high mileage10w20 synthetic blend) & fram superguard (or some such nonsense...read "Walmart special") filter. Oil still looks good & is full.
I'm inclined to pull the oil pan & check the pickup for clogging (there was a ton of gunk/carbon in the top end) because I'm picturing getting fruit stuck in the straw in a smoothie.
My question: do you think a blockage could be causing this or would you look somewhere else first?
great video demonstration!!!!
Thank you to share your video it is a great help to me
You mentioned In the letter no recent work but the top of the maf is very clean and the Air filter although only seeing engine side looked super bright white clean. do you think he had tried a few things before you looked at it or am I crazy?
It happened to my 1999 Lexus ES300 (same engine as above Toyota) when it was 180K miles, had both valves replaced and fault went away. Wish I knew this sooner. Cost me about $300 total at the shop.
great informative work
Nice job Daniel!
Great job!
Daniel
Great video.
Great video...how much do the control valves cost?? Are they a dealer item? Thank you
Bravo 👍 thank you for exellent video
Great vid dude, cheers
thanks !that's a very helpful video,,,,,,
Daniel, i have 2001 dodge ram 1500 4*4 5.2l first start up in the mornings run like crap,the second start up after that runs just fine, only does it when it is cold out, No codes, could it be that idle air control valve? Joey from Statesville N.C. Enjoy all of your videos, and i learn from them all the time!
hey Daniel i have a 01 focus zetec with 422,xxx miles.orignal powertrain.its has an auto with full bright clean fluid.it has an intermittent shudder/ single cylinder misfire issue under light load conditions when od kicks on.i was thinking it needs new spark plugs.thoughts?
Do you recommend Conventional or Synthetic oil for this car. I have an 2001
Great video.!Thanks
Same exact engine as my 2001 toyota highlander...very same milage 166 k...and same problem, though i also have air flow ratio sensor...shop wanted $1,600 to replace i bought parts for $250...gonna install in morning so
Wish me luck 🙏
I have a similar problem like that and I took my vehicle to a mechanic and he says the timing chain got loose and needs to be replaced. Also the vehicle has acceleration problems and miss firing and a lot of smoke coming out when I hit the gas pedal. All this happened after I change the spark plugs and wires and oxygen sensor and fuel filter🤷🏽♂️ Now the vehicle is just sitting in the driveway not sure if I should fix it or not it’s a 1998 Toyota Avalon 228,000 miles what do you think?
Reply loved how you explained the issue and fix. However, I saw that you used an impact drill and not torque the bolts and can cause to strip them. Thank you for the information
ok so i have the code on and need the van, can i just disconect both of them till i can get parts and remove and replace tese valves when it warms up and i have a place to work?
Well done !
Also thanks for the great video
Great vid. I changed both of these twice still get p1349 and p1346 and misfire on cyl 1,3,5
What did you do to fix it? I'm having the same issue.
Thanks it was much help
Nice video !!! Thanks
Question : is this problem more common in cold weather or whenever temperatures drop?
My brake peddle gets hard after small drive is this the reason too since is not getting enough vacuum in my booster check valve
my 2002 corolla is haiving the same issue, im trying to find where thr 2nd OCV is located. theres 1 located on the left side in the front but cant find the 2nd. im not even sure if this model and year will have 2
Daniel, great video. My Avalon is misfiring after running a bit/warming up. I however do not have a check engine light on. Could this still be a VVT solenoid? Or do you suspect a different culprit. I can hear a rattle (what seems towards the bottom of the engine or underneath front of the car. Any ideas? I've checked the vacuum lines and air intake hoses.
Chris Whitehead i have the same rattling noise in the front. I am replacing both OCVs this weekend but also my VSC lights are on as well. Dont know if its directly related to the actual vsc system or not..
Chris Whitehead have you figured out or fixed the problem ?
Thanks for your advise. I already replace the new Oil control Valve. But The engine sign still appear. What should I do next ? Please advise
Go to Autozone and have the code erased
I've replaced the oil control valve a week ago on my yaris just after an engine rebuild. Would a heavier oil such as a 20w50 cause the valve not to operate as normal. I did have an issue where there was a loss in power whilst driving and after replacing this it seems to occur usually on uphills. I previously used 5w30 and now using 20w50 just for the first 1000km. I was wondering if it could be a vvt gear that needs to be replaced or is it something else. There are currently no check engine lights that show up as well. Apologies for the long comment
To be honest in a modern car you should never use any oil other than exactly what the manufacturer specifies. The primary reason is that the tolerances between the metal parts inside modern engines are very tight. That's why they use the lighter oils that they do these days. Putting oil in there that is thicker than what the manufacturer calls for can cause wear issues at certain places inside the engine. And once that happens going back to the correct oil won't fix the problem. Instead you will be looking at a rebuild.
Thanks so much!
More videos like this please
Hello
Would these affect lift on my toyota celica vvtli 2003? After 7000rpm it shutters to 8.200rpm like its cutting on an off, please help, thanks
I was told that there are two oil filters inline supplying the oil to the OCV's sometimes those are clogged too. they are on the end of each head, behind a M17 bolt? supposedly they can be cleaned with some carburetor spray cleaner
Yes there are. However, when I went looking for the new filter screens no one had them, not even the local Lexus dealer. They told me they change the VVT-i oil control valves all the time but they never change the filters. I also talked to a few other people who said the same thing. Apparently no one ever changes them. So I just changed the two valves and the problem went away.
I have a question, I have the same code but also the oil light turned on. This all happened after changing the Catalytic converter in the front of the engine?
it helps a lot
Thank you sir
Dale at European precision says change the oil and use protec engine flush to resolve this matter 😆
Is it possible for a VVT solenoid to be marginal and cause surging idle and surging acceleration but not throw a code? Those are the symptoms with my 2000 Avalon XLS. Car has 160k miles. Oil changed regularly w/ Mobil1 synthetic since new. Runs fine when cruising, but surges on acceleration, and has a slightly surging idle. Was displaying code for oxygen sensor on bank 1, along with some other codes. Changed o2 sensors on banks 1 and 2. Cleared codes. Now no codes displayed, but still has the surging issue. One thing I noticed was that the o2 sensor from bank 1 was quite dark with carbon deposits, but bank 2 sensor was relatively clean. I'm wondering if the VVT sensor on bank 1 has gotten a bit sticky and affected the valve timing which is would create less than ideal combustion that would put more soot into the exhaust and thus on the o2 sensor. Is it even possible for this to occur without it throwing a code for the VVT sensor? Any ideas?
YAY. Thanks man.
what brand is your new valve ? thanks
Thanks man I can help my friend
How to fix P1153 code on lexus rx 300 1999 ? thank you
Thank you
I have the same problem. Great video. I'm going to replace both. Do you think I should change the timing belt also? It's a 2001 with 125k miles
125K miles is too long for a timing belt. Most recommendations I see are for replacement every 90 K miles.
Hey on the control valve witch one was left one and was the right one
Jeep may suggest 7000 mile oil changes, but they sell cars. Probably fine for the first 100000 miles, but it is never going to be a 300,000 mile engine. It does not cost much to change your oil every 3000 or so miles. If you are on the road alot and put alot of highway miles you probably can go longer. Some auto manufactures, so I have heard, no longer recommend changing the oil at 1000 miles, this was always done in the past to remove the inevitable metal particles in there from break in. Some times you have to use good ole common sense which, is, incredibly uncommon.
Can this code cause low oil pressure light to be on?
What is the tool setup that he is using at 4:10? I need to get a "flexible" socket setup like that...but not sure what it is. Anyone point me to what it is called...or better...links? THANKS!
I NEED to buy "slanted socket, (terribly important that I wish U could have remind us about having correct socket wrench, correction, bending wrench makes any job almost snap 2 take out n in!), brand name like that would have been MOST helpful indeed! I had 2 C closely the socket "bent" approximately 30 degree or less "slanted in SUCH tight space" n without "the slanted socket" I wonder how any tech can take those Oil Control valves?
Do you clear the codes, or leave them? (I mean, is there a historical memory of the codes that occurred?)
Yes, he would have to clear the codes, because there is a memory of them.
ive had a failed ecu before. it wasnt grounding the solenoid. went for your way first, but guessing ecu failure is far less common. 2006 mark x.
I had a similar issue with my 200k mi 3V F150
Hello, please if you can solve the problem I have on my Auris Toyota year 2014, after repairing my CVT box, 3 weeks later, I have the Engine check with the ESP on, after scanning i got 2 error codes, P1047 and p264, please tell me the exact fault, please give me a reply, thanks again
could you explain how many oil control valves would there be on an engine? does it depend on number of cylinders?
kkovler1 There's usually one per bank of cylinders, in this scenario it was a V6 so there is one for each side of the V.
does this fix the engine noise/rattle on cold start i've seen videos saying to change them.thanks
No. That problem is caused by a problem inside the cam phasers themselves. There is a locking pin inside the phaser that is worn out. The pin is supposed to lock the phaser during start up when there is no oil pressure. If the car runs okay otherwise you might want to just live with the noise.
Perhaps the oil change dislodged debris, perhaps after a flush was used...
What happens if you crack the connector? How can I change that?
My back one broke as I was struggling to remove it -- now I can't get a grip on it.
Good video how much $$$ was this job??
Was there some reason it couldn't be cleaned ??
Would this cause monitors not ready for smog check ?