I have no car repair experience outside of oil changes, and I just fixed my P1349 error code on my own because of this video. Thank you!! For anyone else on the precipice of this repair: I did this on a 2000 Toyota Echo with 205K miles. I used the fan favorite VVT solenoid from Rock Auto. - Getting the wiring harness off the old solenoid was rough. The plastic was brittle, so be very careful. There's a clip on the top that you have to depress while pulling the wiring harness straight off. I pushed the wiring harness further on, depressed the clip, and pulled straight back, and it finally released. - Moving the rocker arm attached to the alternator out of the way was fine (13mm). Removing the bolt that holds the solenoid to the block was fine (10mm). - Removing the old solenoid was rough. Spinning it was pretty easy, but pulling on it until its o-ring got past whatever groove it sits in was difficult. I spun it clockwise a few degrees and counter clockwise a few degrees and so on until it was out of the block ~1/8". Then I wedged a screwdriver behind the lip of the bolt hole that attaches the solenoid to the block. One hand pulling on the solenoid, one had pushing on the screwdriver, and it came free. - I coated the new solenoid o-ring in oil and was able to insert it fine. It kind of clicked into place. - Reattaching the wiring harness to the new solenoid was very easy. It audibly clicked into place. The dedicated oil control valve filter screen lives directly below the hole for the solenoid. It has an allen wrench head. - Removing the bolt was easy. - Using a pair of bent nose pliers, I was able to get a hold of the nipple on the end of the filter screen, and it pulled out easily. - The filter screen was *filthy*! I soaked it in mineral spirits, and blew it out a few times. Once dried, it had only a few very tiny specks left in the screen. I still might purchase a new one. parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2000_Echo-Sedan/FILTER/62914436/1567821010.html - I placed the filter screen back in its hole, wiped off the bolt, oiled the bolt's rubber gasket, and screwed it back in. As of the time of this comment, I've driven 30 mins straight (~10 miles), and the check engine light has not come back on. I let it idle until the blue low coolant light disappeared, and then I drove it through an industrial park near me for 30 mins. It handled normally. I will update this comment if anything changes.
Don't swap the solenoid without addressing the oil filter dedicated to it. It's nearby. The oil always flows thru the filter and then the solenoid. Eventually, every micro oil filter will clog. This oil filter is NOT the oil filter of the engine, proper. It's a tiny thing.
Before ordering the new solenoid, I pulled the old one and the micro filter. It has been almost a year since I swapped them out, so I don't really all the details, but the Echo is still going strong.
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I have no car repair experience outside of oil changes, and I just fixed my P1349 error code on my own because of this video. Thank you!!
For anyone else on the precipice of this repair:
I did this on a 2000 Toyota Echo with 205K miles.
I used the fan favorite VVT solenoid from Rock Auto.
- Getting the wiring harness off the old solenoid was rough. The plastic was brittle, so be very careful. There's a clip on the top that you have to depress while pulling the wiring harness straight off. I pushed the wiring harness further on, depressed the clip, and pulled straight back, and it finally released.
- Moving the rocker arm attached to the alternator out of the way was fine (13mm). Removing the bolt that holds the solenoid to the block was fine (10mm).
- Removing the old solenoid was rough. Spinning it was pretty easy, but pulling on it until its o-ring got past whatever groove it sits in was difficult. I spun it clockwise a few degrees and counter clockwise a few degrees and so on until it was out of the block ~1/8". Then I wedged a screwdriver behind the lip of the bolt hole that attaches the solenoid to the block. One hand pulling on the solenoid, one had pushing on the screwdriver, and it came free.
- I coated the new solenoid o-ring in oil and was able to insert it fine. It kind of clicked into place.
- Reattaching the wiring harness to the new solenoid was very easy. It audibly clicked into place.
The dedicated oil control valve filter screen lives directly below the hole for the solenoid. It has an allen wrench head.
- Removing the bolt was easy.
- Using a pair of bent nose pliers, I was able to get a hold of the nipple on the end of the filter screen, and it pulled out easily.
- The filter screen was *filthy*! I soaked it in mineral spirits, and blew it out a few times. Once dried, it had only a few very tiny specks left in the screen. I still might purchase a new one. parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2000_Echo-Sedan/FILTER/62914436/1567821010.html
- I placed the filter screen back in its hole, wiped off the bolt, oiled the bolt's rubber gasket, and screwed it back in.
As of the time of this comment, I've driven 30 mins straight (~10 miles), and the check engine light has not come back on. I let it idle until the blue low coolant light disappeared, and then I drove it through an industrial park near me for 30 mins. It handled normally. I will update this comment if anything changes.
I'm glad it was helpful!
Don't swap the solenoid without addressing the oil filter dedicated to it. It's nearby. The oil always flows thru the filter and then the solenoid.
Eventually, every micro oil filter will clog. This oil filter is NOT the oil filter of the engine, proper. It's a tiny thing.
Before ordering the new solenoid, I pulled the old one and the micro filter. It has been almost a year since I swapped them out, so I don't really all the details, but the Echo is still going strong.