I'm a former painting contractor. 20 years and 650 exteriors... just trying to be helpful here. In the future if you can do it. Buy a $300 sprayer and for a 1 hour investment of time to get machine ready for the job and clean it 100% at the end, you will cut your time in half or much more. Simply turn the spray down low, so there is little over spray. Use left hand for spraying, right hand holds a 2 & 1/2 " angle brush. This combo of spray and brush in, spray and brush in will give you insane speed, do a far superior job. Keeps everything wet and no lap marks ever. Also I would personally use 1 oil primer cut with some penetrol (helps the oil primer go deeper into the wood surface). The oil seals the wood wonderfully. Give it at least 72 hours dry time for a more full cure (even though it says top coat in 1-2 hours on the can label) 2 coats of the highest grade latex you can buy after this and yes you are good for 10 years and possibly more. Use a 2 gallon bleach sprayer once a year with a 1.5% mix in water. Spray entire shed. Allow to "dwell" for 5-10 minutes and rinse well with a garden hose. This will keep the mold, mildew and dirt off. Prolong the life of the paint job tremendously. Again, just trying to be helpful. BTW.... I love your videos. Watched dozens of them over the years. You're very good and knowledgeable about so many things. Keep up the great work
Seriously, why did they get rid of exterior oil based paint. Now I have to use a oil based primer on my wood exterior house? I swear, people who make these decisions don’t actually do the labor of maintaining their home. My 15 year old wood siding home now needs to painted and has a oil based paint. I’m building a shed to match and am so aggravated trying to figure out the best exterior paint and my house was last done with Sherwin Williams oil based exterior paint. So now I have to use a primer..which primer and which exterior paint and brand for 4 seasons? Akloid ? or acrylic last the longest on exterior wood that gets bitter cold in winter ..cuz I’m not painting every 7 years😩
@@CarriUSA I've talked to paint specialists about this issue because a customer wanted a full oil based paint for his railings and balusters for his deck. He had previously painted them with all oil based, primer and finish coat and the paint failed after 5 years. Oil is awesome but for finish paint, when it dries it becomes hard/brittle. I live in Chicago so we have weather that ranges from 100 degrees in the summer to zero degrees F in the winter. The oil finish coats will expand and contract and fail since it's not elastic. Latex expands and contracts better than oil based paints so it actually holds up better in exterior applications. Oil is amazing for interior applications. There's been such a huge advancement in paint science and production in the past 10 years it's impressive. @mikestorm9578 is correct. If you have fresh wood, you can use an oil based primer and then latex finish coat.
When painting bare wood, I highly recommend a 3 coat system: 1 coat exterior oil primer + 2 coats of premium quality exterior paint. Primer recommendations: Zinsser Cover Stain, Sherwin-Williams Extreme Block. For finish paint, stay away from big-box, hardware stores. Go with topline exterior paint from one of the "Big Three" - PPG/Dulux, Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin Moore.
For that kind of surface I'd use an HVLP sprayer. The small portable ones (like Wagner) are relatively cheap (less than €200) and useful for many surfaces and have the option of a different head for interior cabinetry work.
@@CalebGibbsAvenue Should do; I checked the C2 website (from Spain) and the C5200 is latex based and sprayable without thinning. The C5300 is acrylic but I cannot find its data sheet. I have an old version of the Wagner FLEXIO 4000 with what they now call an iSpray head which handles latex and acrylic. These are simple to test and adjust even without thinning for sample rough surfaces - even if you need to use two coats.
@@CalebGibbsAvenue By which I presume you mean from a compressor using "high pressure". Yes, but you will need to verify the nozzle size for acrylic/latex paint and you have to use very low pressure. The pressure in an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure - often also called "airless") system (like the Wagner) is pretty much no more than the inverse of a vacuum cleaner at its lowest settings - hence high volume. In a compressed air system the paint/thinner mixture is effectively atomised (misted) under the pressure which is more what you'd want with lacquer etc. (as in car/metal spraying) - this is High Pressure Low Volume (thinner is used generally with such paints because of the small nozzle size required). Larger (i.e. more expensive) HVLP systems (€450+) may have limited pressure control but the "domestic use" HVLPs generally don't, or only have a high/low setting. I'm not a pro - but I have used HVLP in a domestic setting for a few years and I've found HVLP to be very useful since I don't intend spraying cars!
Jeff, my house has T-111 siding and I love it. I rolled and brushed it just like you had to do it on this project. The really good news... I've been in this house for 28 years and I only had to paint it twice - when we first moved in and then 15 years later. It's beige paint so you don't really notice any fading, And, the paint really soaks into the rough texture and there's zero chance of peeling. I can go 15 years between painting the exterior and the only part of the house that might need a little attention is the elevation facing the sun on the South end. I use 2 coats on a full painting and I add a single touchup coat on the south elevation 10 years later. Love that T-111.
PS - I used Behr semi-transparent stain from Home Depot and it has a texture and thickness exactly like paint. I was initially covering a previous stain and I was very surprised by the thickness of the new stain. And, 28 years later, I'm very pleased with the performance of the Behr product.
I just finished a whole house with this siding (ugh), and for the grooves it really helped to buy a big pack of different size foam brushes. You can push them into any weird spot and the rough siding will eat though them pretty quick, but a couple dozen was still cheaper and neater than destroying my good brushes
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Definitely! I did spray+roll the big broad areas, but the bottom floor was 80% trim and penetrations... the best technique would probably be to just move!
Thanks Jeff! I always learn something useful watching your videos, even though my projects are usually unrelated. The product and technique insights are golden!
I have t111 as well and I have had it since 1980. I have replaced a few areas on a 3,000 square foot home on the beach in Georgia but it is to be expected. I can tell you all about maintaining t-111 and repairing damaged areas, rot, preventing rot and routine things to avoid problems and added expenses. I can also repair it very quickly and I know the best materials, brands, and preparing that should be used to get the most out of your siding. Also where the weak points are and how to combat them or remove them with changes or upgrades and even what you can do to upgrade eventually if you want to install a higher end facade like faux stone, hardyplank, stucco, exterior poly foam products, or real wood and the easiest ways to prep for it, the cheapest ways to prep for it, the best ways to prep for it, and the average amount of time you will get from t-111 and how long you will get from going over it later on with something different and using it as a base to cover with another product and attaching onto the T-111 which is easier with certain things and some need a moisture barrier and some don't but most need one for code to be compliant. I am currently making custom foam planks that are a closed cell foam that I am going to essentially epoxy after I color them in with a sprayed enamel and then brushed enamel and then finally rolling a pattern on the plank and then the epoxy goes on top brushed on very lightly with an additive to make it not shine as much and look amazing when done. I learned it in 24 hours of experimenting with foam, dish soap, Portland cement, and some dyes and chips of various sized rocks and peddles and sand and sawdust that I finally got right and can produce in mass amounts in a quick amount of time. But it is a 14 step process from start to finish and takes about 9 hours to do and another 2 days to fully cure I believe.
I know that the preferred go to would be a sprayer for such a texture as paneling but having lived my early life in a mobilehome back when real paneling was used inside. I painted paneling then and now after a prep rinse roll- Roll it sideways on the first roll like puttting a hole. Then go vertical. Yes, work steady in the sun. Lived in the south always and heat is always and mostly sunny . that wet edge is like chasing smoke.
Should say I've never been able to buy a sprayer. And my panels looked great. I enrobed my wood with paint. I was proud. Did the pump house and the shed and the chicken coop. Raw wood n shake n paneling. Was so cute!
I have learned ,some things with your help ,that it's definitely worth every penny to buy high quality paint! I also have figured out that airless spayers are worth every penny,especially for the exterior! I also stopped buying paint from the big box stores. I discovered that even the so called cheap paint sold at actual paint stores is better than the crap big box store sell as premium paint. My local paint store even gave me "contractor prices". My best advice I could give people is to just visit your local paint store and just talk to them about your project. You'll probably find out that right away your getting a whole different level of service! That is something that big box stores just don't do.
We just painted a 1600 square foot house with pine board and batten. We found using killz to seal the knots works good and a foam roller that's meant for block works best and a couple of different size brushes. To do 2 coats we where 12 gallons.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY having watched you do this, and knowing you make things look easier than they are through sheer practice, THIS is the job that would convince me to hire one at least!
I have a laugh out loud moment during every video you make! “Keep your ass to the door, folks!” I appreciate the quality of your instruction and all my DIY work is great because if your tutorials. Thanks!
The easier/better way is to buy 5 gallons put a grid screen in it, roll out the paint (1-1/4 lamb skin) on the siding (get the edges) and trim before you build the shed, and then do a little touch-up after the shed is built. When you are done no need to clean the roller just keep it in the bucket until the next job. You can also use a cheap corner foam roller for the groves. Or of course, use an airless sprayer.
When ever I paint over T-11, I always use a combination of a spraying first then go over lightly with a roller making sure the cracks are filled in. This way, there isn't any streaking and less paint has being used.
as a old painter with 42 years , i always pulled our an graco airless sprayer ` for this type of work,and whizzed thru in no time,with pressure this lasted a long time.. on some surfaces an oil primer is necessary to make it more weather resistance before applying the finish coat. good bye brush and roller. as these panels love to take in water when not properly preped.
"Trouble with Tribbles". I just painted an old shed and a new one 3 days ago in same tan color. I rolled and back brushed 2 coats of primer and then 2 coats of paint. Primer is cheaper than paint and it will soak into the rough surface seal it and also be a binder for the paint increase the adhesion over just paint. Primer will make everything last way longer than just paint, less flaking and peeling, I use a normal 3/8" wooster roller and the trick I used for the channels was after I applied the paint on the flat part of the siding, I tilted the roller at a 45 degree angle and used the corner of the roller to fill paint into the channels, then a quick back brush in the channel to really get it good. Same technique for trim or any corners, use the edge of the roller first then back brush. I used a 4" disposable chip brush from the HF store with natural bristles and it worked very well and only lost a few bristles.
I’m a female homeowner, with not much help. Whenever I need to figure out how to do something myself, I head to your channel. Thanks for being my TH-cam dad 😂
I'm doing siding just like that what a PITA! old and dry and I got rotten wood to replace. looks like the trim wasn't caulked... Total Aircraft: 13732 (in the air) Amazing!
At 4:40 took a splatter to your eye, I spend more money for lambs wool rollers. I professional painter gave me this tip 20 years ago. Lambs wool holds much more paint, (less trips to the pan)and doesn’t splatter nearly as much, (much less paint where you don’t want it) I used to end up with overspray on my glasses and on the floor. It is worth the money. Also buy a roller spinner to super clean the lambs wool roller and it will last for many jobs.
Do not wipe your brush on the side of the can after you dip. Either tap the inside of the can on each side or shake the brush in the can. Then apply to the surface with three brush swipes. Reload the brush and do another section. Do three areas if close together and then go back to the first and second and lightly smooth it out. These two tricks will save you about 20% of your time. Oh, push yourself to go a little faster...you will get more done in less time. (Thirty years painting...) What the hell, another tip. Whenever possible, pour your paint into a 5-gal bucket. Use a grill and a 9-inch roller on a stick. Dip the roller halfway into the paint. Do this several times if the roller is clean. After loading the roller (dipping the roller) roll it on the grid, lightly tap the roller bar on the inner edge of the pail and begin to roll.
We bought a house with a shed this year and the T111 is in rotted near the bottom. What's the easiest way to fix it? Cut out the rotted part and replace, or replace the entire panel? If I cut and replace just the rotted part, how do I seal it by the cut? I'm also wondering how to prevent future rotting. I'm guessing this was caused by water falling off the shed roof and hitting it. Is there a ground cover which would prevent rain runoff from splashing on the sides?
Update: going to cut out the rotted parts and replace with fresh T111 and caulk the gaps, then paint. Going to put on gutters unless I find plants that dissipate splashing for cheaper
Come up 12 inches or 16 inches from the bottom of the T111 and pop a line all the way across the wall, set your saw to the thickness of the T111, cut on your line, slide some galvanized "Z' flashing underneath the old T111, cut your new pieces of T111, put 2 coats of PPG Gripper primer on the bottom edge of each piece that faces the ground and 3 inches up the backside, put each piece up, put 2 coats of primer on the rest and also 2 coats of paint and don't forget to also put 2 coats of paint on the bottom edge of the new T111 pieces that face the ground. 99% of the time people don't primer and paint the bottom edge of the siding that is towards the ground and that's what causes the rot. All the major sidings web sites say to do this on their installation instructions.
I watched your videos on vinyl flooring and idk if I missed it somewhere, but how should I install cabinets, appliances and vinyl plank flooring together? If you already did a video about this can you link it for me please? I have concrete floors and was wondering if I’m supposed to put some type of wood down to match the height of the floors before putting in the cabinets and appliances? Also what should all should I put under the flooring? I know it needs vapor barrier, and the vinyl flooring I’m looking at comes with underpayment attached.
May I ask a silly question? If the home already has exsisting paint NOT peeling but a color that I dont like, can I just paint over it? I know i need to power wash but other then that?
Love the video, but here are a couple of tips for you and your viewers! Only roll one panel per dip, go extra heavy on loading up the roller and have someone back brush the extra paint as you go. On new wood like in your video it is essential that you back brush weather spraying or rolling because of adhesion and it always takes two coats. Oh and I add mold inhibitors to the paint.
depends on the size of the project. this size of shed was about a 50/50 for me because I don't like to set up all the masking and clean the machine when I am done for small jobs. It would work fine as lomng as you back rolled after spraying to get good adhesion. Cheers!
I don't see any benefit on a small job. by the time most folks go rent a machine and then clean it up and mask the deck and doors the net benefit is gone. On larger jobs the sprayer makes sense. Cheers!
@@joseph7105 I'm a DIY person myself and used a sprayer for my room addition exterior. I installed primed fiber cement shingle panels then borrowed a simple Wagner sprayer and it worked great. A paint sprayer is definitely DIY tool.
I have a couple of columns (I think they're fibreglass or some kind of resin) here in Ontario and the paint keeps peeling off. Any advice for the best way to repaint them? How is the best way to prep the columns and which type of paint?
look into a primer than is designed to bond to the material your columns are made of, 2 coats of primer after lots of sanding and wire brushing old paint, then use a high quality exterior enamel. I like the Ben Moore products, pricey, but they go on well and hold up very well. The prep takes the most time, time is money, so do it right the first time and by top tier materials.
I’m hoping you just did the rolling first as a lesson to first time painter of T-11, since anyone that has ever painted the T-11 knows you need to brush the grooves and then roll the rest of the siding.
I agree, use 120 grit for the floor to help promote the stain to soak deep, you only get one chance with a sealer, one good flood coat, or 2 consecutive coats like Jeff did.
Does anyone else think we coming around to a full circle (?) The customer wanted this to be an entertainment shed - makes me think of all those tiki set ups in vintage houses 😁- - - yep, spend the summers in Minnesota addressing maintenance - - regarding eating paint , my brother tried out one of those graco automatic paint rollers ....he complained that it took one gallon per wall , but I wonder if that wasn't because he might have been coating new dry wall which might have been part of the reason too...hmmm🙂
So this is a paint and prime in one? I feel like anytime I use that on raw wood I need 4 coats. But I use contractor-grade wherein-Williams, so maybe my paint just sucks. When do you use a primer before painting?
you could use a primer sealer but by the time you get a good one it is the same price as the finish paint. and with this much texture using a white primer causes new problems.
First you said you can paint the caulk right away, then you said you have to wait 24 hrs. We'll, what is it? And aren't we supposed to prime exterior wood?
The way that sheathing was milled is so crappy. Once you paint over it and hide the wood grain color/pattern, it really accentuates the horizontal saw marks.
If you ever consider tackling a project like this after the the time you spent watching and re-watching this video, purchasing a $25 wooster 4-8 ft sherlock extension pole, $8 wooster roller frame, $10+ 3/4" roller nap, $60 for two gallons worth of some mud-water paint from your local big box store that covers you more than the surface you're painting.. Hire me! I'll charge you $250 (including materials) for a quality materials and finish.. plus I'll be done before you finish your coffee in the morning. Think about it!
I just painted two rooms that had this wood over half of the walls. A hellish nightmare. Brush in the center of the groove, the left of the groove, the right of the groove. Dip brush again and repeat for the bottom half. Then do that 240 more times + all the trim. Next time I paint, I’m ripping all that out.
I'm a former painting contractor. 20 years and 650 exteriors... just trying to be helpful here. In the future if you can do it. Buy a $300 sprayer and for a 1 hour investment of time to get machine ready for the job and clean it 100% at the end, you will cut your time in half or much more. Simply turn the spray down low, so there is little over spray. Use left hand for spraying, right hand holds a 2 & 1/2 " angle brush. This combo of spray and brush in, spray and brush in will give you insane speed, do a far superior job. Keeps everything wet and no lap marks ever. Also I would personally use 1 oil primer cut with some penetrol (helps the oil primer go deeper into the wood surface). The oil seals the wood wonderfully. Give it at least 72 hours dry time for a more full cure (even though it says top coat in 1-2 hours on the can label) 2 coats of the highest grade latex you can buy after this and yes you are good for 10 years and possibly more. Use a 2 gallon bleach sprayer once a year with a 1.5% mix in water. Spray entire shed. Allow to "dwell" for 5-10 minutes and rinse well with a garden hose. This will keep the mold, mildew and dirt off. Prolong the life of the paint job tremendously. Again, just trying to be helpful. BTW.... I love your videos. Watched dozens of them over the years. You're very good and knowledgeable about so many things. Keep up the great work
Seriously, why did they get rid of exterior oil based paint. Now I have to use a oil based primer on my wood exterior house? I swear, people who make these decisions don’t actually do the labor of maintaining their home. My 15 year old wood siding home now needs to painted and has a oil based paint. I’m building a shed to match and am so aggravated trying to figure out the best exterior paint and my house was last done with Sherwin Williams oil based exterior paint. So now I have to use a primer..which primer and which exterior paint and brand for 4 seasons? Akloid ? or acrylic last the longest on exterior wood that gets bitter cold in winter ..cuz I’m not painting every 7 years😩
What can be a great substitute of wood stain that can last many years?
@@CarriUSA I've talked to paint specialists about this issue because a customer wanted a full oil based paint for his railings and balusters for his deck. He had previously painted them with all oil based, primer and finish coat and the paint failed after 5 years. Oil is awesome but for finish paint, when it dries it becomes hard/brittle. I live in Chicago so we have weather that ranges from 100 degrees in the summer to zero degrees F in the winter. The oil finish coats will expand and contract and fail since it's not elastic. Latex expands and contracts better than oil based paints so it actually holds up better in exterior applications. Oil is amazing for interior applications. There's been such a huge advancement in paint science and production in the past 10 years it's impressive. @mikestorm9578 is correct. If you have fresh wood, you can use an oil based primer and then latex finish coat.
When painting bare wood, I highly recommend a 3 coat system: 1 coat exterior oil primer + 2 coats of premium quality exterior paint. Primer recommendations: Zinsser Cover Stain, Sherwin-Williams Extreme Block. For finish paint, stay away from big-box, hardware stores. Go with topline exterior paint from one of the "Big Three" - PPG/Dulux, Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin Moore.
For that kind of surface I'd use an HVLP sprayer. The small portable ones (like Wagner) are relatively cheap (less than €200) and useful for many surfaces and have the option of a different head for interior cabinetry work.
My thoughts exactly but will it handle this kind of paint.
@@CalebGibbsAvenue Should do; I checked the C2 website (from Spain) and the C5200 is latex based and sprayable without thinning. The C5300 is acrylic but I cannot find its data sheet. I have an old version of the Wagner FLEXIO 4000 with what they now call an iSpray head which handles latex and acrylic. These are simple to test and adjust even without thinning for sample rough surfaces - even if you need to use two coats.
That would be a great addition to the toolbox for many folks. Cheers!
Will an air Sprayer work as well? I'm not familiar with what air Sprayer limits.
That's all i'v ever used
@@CalebGibbsAvenue By which I presume you mean from a compressor using "high pressure". Yes, but you will need to verify the nozzle size for acrylic/latex paint and you have to use very low pressure. The pressure in an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure - often also called "airless") system (like the Wagner) is pretty much no more than the inverse of a vacuum cleaner at its lowest settings - hence high volume. In a compressed air system the paint/thinner mixture is effectively atomised (misted) under the pressure which is more what you'd want with lacquer etc. (as in car/metal spraying) - this is High Pressure Low Volume (thinner is used generally with such paints because of the small nozzle size required). Larger (i.e. more expensive) HVLP systems (€450+) may have limited pressure control but the "domestic use" HVLPs generally don't, or only have a high/low setting. I'm not a pro - but I have used HVLP in a domestic setting for a few years and I've found HVLP to be very useful since I don't intend spraying cars!
Spray and back brush speed is the name of the game. If your right handed paint to your left. Your ding it bass awards.
maybe but I will use my sprayer on the next project.
Jeff, my house has T-111 siding and I love it. I rolled and brushed it just like you had to do it on this project. The really good news... I've been in this house for 28 years and I only had to paint it twice - when we first moved in and then 15 years later. It's beige paint so you don't really notice any fading, And, the paint really soaks into the rough texture and there's zero chance of peeling. I can go 15 years between painting the exterior and the only part of the house that might need a little attention is the elevation facing the sun on the South end. I use 2 coats on a full painting and I add a single touchup coat on the south elevation 10 years later. Love that T-111.
PS - I used Behr semi-transparent stain from Home Depot and it has a texture and thickness exactly like paint. I was initially covering a previous stain and I was very surprised by the thickness of the new stain. And, 28 years later, I'm very pleased with the performance of the Behr product.
They were called Tribbles. The name of the episode was "The Trouble With Tribbles".
Also I believe voted the most liked episode
Yes! But my first though was painting with a Pomeranian 🤣
Great episode!
I just finished a whole house with this siding (ugh), and for the grooves it really helped to buy a big pack of different size foam brushes. You can push them into any weird spot and the rough siding will eat though them pretty quick, but a couple dozen was still cheaper and neater than destroying my good brushes
for a whole house I would suggest using an airless sprayer. I am sure they rent those out at home depot.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Definitely! I did spray+roll the big broad areas, but the bottom floor was 80% trim and penetrations... the best technique would probably be to just move!
LOL. I feel Ya!
Rough wood like this would tear up foam brushes. I'd personally would not use those on this type of wood.
Thanks Jeff! I always learn something useful watching your videos, even though my projects are usually unrelated. The product and technique insights are golden!
Glad to help!
I have t111 as well and I have had it since 1980. I have replaced a few areas on a 3,000 square foot home on the beach in Georgia but it is to be expected. I can tell you all about maintaining t-111 and repairing damaged areas, rot, preventing rot and routine things to avoid problems and added expenses. I can also repair it very quickly and I know the best materials, brands, and preparing that should be used to get the most out of your siding. Also where the weak points are and how to combat them or remove them with changes or upgrades and even what you can do to upgrade eventually if you want to install a higher end facade like faux stone, hardyplank, stucco, exterior poly foam products, or real wood and the easiest ways to prep for it, the cheapest ways to prep for it, the best ways to prep for it, and the average amount of time you will get from t-111 and how long you will get from going over it later on with something different and using it as a base to cover with another product and attaching onto the T-111 which is easier with certain things and some need a moisture barrier and some don't but most need one for code to be compliant. I am currently making custom foam planks that are a closed cell foam that I am going to essentially epoxy after I color them in with a sprayed enamel and then brushed enamel and then finally rolling a pattern on the plank and then the epoxy goes on top brushed on very lightly with an additive to make it not shine as much and look amazing when done. I learned it in 24 hours of experimenting with foam, dish soap, Portland cement, and some dyes and chips of various sized rocks and peddles and sand and sawdust that I finally got right and can produce in mass amounts in a quick amount of time. But it is a 14 step process from start to finish and takes about 9 hours to do and another 2 days to fully cure I believe.
If you're just joining us, you can watch the entire series 👉🏼th-cam.com/play/PL34cQkzKfXWblEm4HmrEBkIFgIFSnEzOk.html Cheers and thanks for watching!
I know that the preferred go to would be a sprayer for such a texture as paneling but having lived my early life in a mobilehome back when real paneling was used inside.
I painted paneling then and now after a prep rinse roll- Roll it sideways on the first roll like puttting a hole. Then go vertical. Yes, work steady in the sun.
Lived in the south always and heat is always and mostly sunny . that wet edge is like chasing smoke.
Should say I've never been able to buy a sprayer. And my panels looked great. I enrobed my wood with paint. I was proud. Did the pump house and the shed and the chicken coop. Raw wood n shake n paneling. Was so cute!
I like how he says "alright" "right" and "ok" a lot.. sign of a good teacher
Cheers!
I have learned ,some things with your help ,that it's definitely worth every penny to buy high quality paint! I also have figured out that airless spayers are worth every penny,especially for the exterior! I also stopped buying paint from the big box stores. I discovered that even the so called cheap paint sold at actual paint stores is better than the crap big box store sell as premium paint. My local paint store even gave me "contractor prices". My best advice I could give people is to just visit your local paint store and just talk to them about your project. You'll probably find out that right away your getting a whole different level of service! That is something that big box stores just don't do.
Crazy how professional advice is right there but folks don't go visit . Cheers!
Yes, Tribbles! My Dad made me watch with him..I was like 5. One tv in the house and I was the remote..lmao!
3:10 "The Trouble With Tribbles". One of the few episodes I actually know the name of.
We just painted a 1600 square foot house with pine board and batten. We found using killz to seal the knots works good and a foam roller that's meant for block works best and a couple of different size brushes. To do 2 coats we where 12 gallons.
This seems like the perfect time to use your paint sprayer? Faster and easier
Fine I will use nit on my next job. I just don't expect most folks to have access to one. Cheers!
Correct
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY having watched you do this, and knowing you make things look easier than they are through sheer practice, THIS is the job that would convince me to hire one at least!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY lol
I have a laugh out loud moment during every video you make! “Keep your ass to the door, folks!” I appreciate the quality of your instruction and all my DIY work is great because if your tutorials. Thanks!
Cheers, but keep your ass to the door is a very vital component to great results. Cheers!
Great work. Thanks again for the video! I might spray paint mine to avoid all the brushing and setbacks
Go for it!
The easier/better way is to buy 5 gallons put a grid screen in it, roll out the paint (1-1/4 lamb skin) on the siding (get the edges) and trim before you build the shed, and then do a little touch-up after the shed is built. When you are done no need to clean the roller just keep it in the bucket until the next job. You can also use a cheap corner foam roller for the groves. Or of course, use an airless sprayer.
When ever I paint over T-11, I always use a combination of a spraying first then go over lightly with a roller making sure the cracks are filled in. This way, there isn't any streaking and less paint has being used.
as a old painter with 42 years , i always pulled our an graco airless sprayer ` for this type of work,and whizzed thru in no time,with pressure this lasted a long time.. on some surfaces an oil primer is necessary to make it more weather resistance before applying the finish coat. good bye brush and roller. as these panels love to take in water when not properly preped.
"Trouble with Tribbles". I just painted an old shed and a new one 3 days ago in same tan color. I rolled and back brushed 2 coats of primer and then 2 coats of paint. Primer is cheaper than paint and it will soak into the rough surface seal it and also be a binder for the paint increase the adhesion over just paint. Primer will make everything last way longer than just paint, less flaking and peeling, I use a normal 3/8" wooster roller and the trick I used for the channels was after I applied the paint on the flat part of the siding, I tilted the roller at a 45 degree angle and used the corner of the roller to fill paint into the channels, then a quick back brush in the channel to really get it good. Same technique for trim or any corners, use the edge of the roller first then back brush. I used a 4" disposable chip brush from the HF store with natural bristles and it worked very well and only lost a few bristles.
I’m a female homeowner, with not much help. Whenever I need to figure out how to do something myself, I head to your channel. Thanks for being my TH-cam dad 😂
I'm doing siding just like that what a PITA! old and dry and I got rotten wood to replace.
looks like the trim wasn't caulked...
Total Aircraft: 13732 (in the air) Amazing!
At 4:40 took a splatter to your eye,
I spend more money for lambs wool rollers.
I professional painter gave me this tip 20 years ago. Lambs wool holds much more paint, (less trips to the pan)and doesn’t splatter nearly as much, (much less paint where you don’t want it) I used to end up with overspray on my glasses and on the floor. It is worth the money. Also buy a roller spinner to super clean the lambs wool roller and it will last for many jobs.
they also don't mat down like synthetic rollers do.
Do not wipe your brush on the side of the can after you dip. Either tap the inside of the can on each side or shake the brush in the can. Then apply to the surface with three brush swipes. Reload the brush and do another section. Do three areas if close together and then go back to the first and second and lightly smooth it out. These two tricks will save you about 20% of your time. Oh, push yourself to go a little faster...you will get more done in less time. (Thirty years painting...) What the hell, another tip. Whenever possible, pour your paint into a 5-gal bucket. Use a grill and a 9-inch roller on a stick. Dip the roller halfway into the paint. Do this several times if the roller is clean. After loading the roller (dipping the roller) roll it on the grid, lightly tap the roller bar on the inner edge of the pail and begin to roll.
Great video ,,,,,,I have tried all different styles of painting ,,,but i have found what works best for me is let my wife do the painting
I painted the same siding with a 1 by 6 in brush and was fast and effective. Very little splatter.
nice choice!
"buzzing the tower with a flyby"... love the reference :D
Top gun!
With all the trouble of rolling and brushing, Couldnt you have sprayed on a thick primer first then rolled and brushed?
The episode of Start Trek is called Tribble Trouble. You had it right.
Watching the way you took off excess paint from that paint brush on the lid of the paint can told me all I need to know 😅
We bought a house with a shed this year and the T111 is in rotted near the bottom. What's the easiest way to fix it? Cut out the rotted part and replace, or replace the entire panel? If I cut and replace just the rotted part, how do I seal it by the cut?
I'm also wondering how to prevent future rotting. I'm guessing this was caused by water falling off the shed roof and hitting it. Is there a ground cover which would prevent rain runoff from splashing on the sides?
Update: going to cut out the rotted parts and replace with fresh T111 and caulk the gaps, then paint.
Going to put on gutters unless I find plants that dissipate splashing for cheaper
Come up 12 inches or 16 inches from the bottom of the T111 and pop a line all the way across the wall, set your saw to the thickness of the T111, cut on your line, slide some galvanized "Z' flashing underneath the old T111, cut your new pieces of T111, put 2 coats of PPG Gripper primer on the bottom edge of each piece that faces the ground and 3 inches up the backside, put each piece up, put 2 coats of primer on the rest and also 2 coats of paint and don't forget to also put 2 coats of paint on the bottom edge of the new T111 pieces that face the ground.
99% of the time people don't primer and paint the bottom edge of the siding that is towards the ground and that's what causes the rot. All the major sidings web sites say to do this on their installation instructions.
I can't believe Jeff just made a tribble reference! 🤣
Fun to look back on what we used to entertain ourselves with eh!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY oh I'm a huge Trekkie so I knew where you were going soon as you got that look on your face.
Noice! Cheers!
How about using a water base of oil base primer to prevent the top coat from skinning ?
Why not roll impregnating alkyde oil over every piece of wood before painting?
What to you think about treating the lower section using Japanese Shou Sugi Ban?
I watched your videos on vinyl flooring and idk if I missed it somewhere, but how should I install cabinets, appliances and vinyl plank flooring together? If you already did a video about this can you link it for me please? I have concrete floors and was wondering if I’m supposed to put some type of wood down to match the height of the floors before putting in the cabinets and appliances? Also what should all should I put under the flooring? I know it needs vapor barrier, and the vinyl flooring I’m looking at comes with underpayment attached.
Jeff,
Complete novice w/ construction, but I do know Trek. The episode was "The Trouble with Tribbles." 😊
May I ask a silly question? If the home already has exsisting paint NOT peeling but a color that I dont like, can I just paint over it? I know i need to power wash but other then that?
I noticed you didn't use a primer first, is it because the paint already has primer in it? What do you recommend?
Use an airless sprayer much faster and better coverage.
great tool if you have one, or are willing to rent it. But for small jobs the cleanup is just not worth the speed.
What do I use to paint over my outdoor osb siding
Great video! Do you have any videos of staining a cedar fence?
coming up soon. Cheers!
I would like to paint my kitchen counters and backsplash both are ceramic 10”x10” with grout. Pls . Any info would help. Thankyou. Kevin.
some things I just can't recommend. I would suggest tile over tile install first before painting in a food prep area! Cheers!
😂😂😂 "The Trouble with Tribbles" was episode tile I think.
Cheers!
“Wet it and forget it” It deserves a MEME!!😂😂😂
Love the video, but here are a couple of tips for you and your viewers! Only roll one panel per dip, go extra heavy on loading up the roller and have someone back brush the extra paint as you go. On new wood like in your video it is essential that you back brush weather spraying or rolling because of adhesion and it always takes two coats. Oh and I add mold inhibitors to the paint.
Thanks for sharing
If you roll sideways too, you can definitely fill those grooves with the roller.
One trick is to actually turn the roller on edge and slide it down the grove, then a quick back brush.
when/where was this filmed that the robins are nesting and all the plants are green? Sure doesn't seem like November in Canada!
Shed looks good!
I've watched other videos where an oil based primer and then an acrylic based top coat was used. Is that the best way to paint exterior wood?
the real secret is keeping it dry. don.t have organics like bushes against the house. This material already comes with a sealer in it.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks
T--111 is not pre-sealed!@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
Dumb question Jeff, what are your thoughts of painting that type of wood with a sprayer?
depends on the size of the project. this size of shed was about a 50/50 for me because I don't like to set up all the masking and clean the machine when I am done for small jobs. It would work fine as lomng as you back rolled after spraying to get good adhesion. Cheers!
It there a reason you didn't use a sprayer for this project?
I don't see any benefit on a small job. by the time most folks go rent a machine and then clean it up and mask the deck and doors the net benefit is gone. On larger jobs the sprayer makes sense. Cheers!
@@joseph7105 I'm a DIY person myself and used a sprayer for my room addition exterior. I installed primed fiber cement shingle panels then borrowed a simple Wagner sprayer and it worked great. A paint sprayer is definitely DIY tool.
I'd add Enron harding to the paint. Bad stuff but really good. Has enyone used it in this tip of paint?
I have a couple of columns (I think they're fibreglass or some kind of resin) here in Ontario and the paint keeps peeling off. Any advice for the best way to repaint them? How is the best way to prep the columns and which type of paint?
look into a primer than is designed to bond to the material your columns are made of, 2 coats of primer after lots of sanding and wire brushing old paint, then use a high quality exterior enamel. I like the Ben Moore products, pricey, but they go on well and hold up very well. The prep takes the most time, time is money, so do it right the first time and by top tier materials.
I’m hoping you just did the rolling first as a lesson to first time painter of T-11, since anyone that has ever painted the T-11 knows you need to brush the grooves and then roll the rest of the siding.
same thing only different. Cheers!
If you sand above 180 you start to close the wood grain preventing proper absorption.
I agree, use 120 grit for the floor to help promote the stain to soak deep, you only get one chance with a sealer, one good flood coat, or 2 consecutive coats like Jeff did.
Dang, last time I weighed 180 was the early 90s.
@@dad1432 damn shorty thicc
The trouble with tribbles (TRIBBLES)
How long after PT deck can you Stain it or treat it
Does anyone else think we coming around to a full circle (?) The customer wanted this to be an entertainment shed - makes me think of all those tiki set ups in vintage houses 😁- - - yep, spend the summers in Minnesota addressing maintenance - - regarding eating paint , my brother tried out one of those graco automatic paint rollers ....he complained that it took one gallon per wall , but I wonder if that wasn't because he might have been coating new dry wall which might have been part of the reason too...hmmm🙂
i used my spray gun. aim to the left and then to the right to spray into the crack and easy second coat.
Wouldn't using a low-pressure, high-volume air gun for painting a better idea?
The Trouble with Tribbles is the name of the Star Trek episode.
So this is a paint and prime in one? I feel like anytime I use that on raw wood I need 4 coats. But I use contractor-grade wherein-Williams, so maybe my paint just sucks. When do you use a primer before painting?
you could use a primer sealer but by the time you get a good one it is the same price as the finish paint. and with this much texture using a white primer causes new problems.
Tell me how to keep rodants out, thanks.
That was the episode i think
15:30 Don't see "bleaching" video in "description section". Please, add the link to "first video in series" into this "section".
It was " Trouble with tribbles" 😊
Tribbles..just because someone else beat me to it ;)
LOl, Thanks for that!
Tribbles from Star Trek Jeff!
First you said you can paint the caulk right away, then you said you have to wait 24 hrs. We'll, what is it? And aren't we supposed to prime exterior wood?
I’d be spraying and back rolling. At minimum, paint out of a 5 gallon bucket with a grid.
Great idea 💡👍🤠💯
Thank you! Cheers!
Star Trek (The Original Series) - The trouble with tribbles. Dem tings are called Tribbles ;)
The way that sheathing was milled is so crappy. Once you paint over it and hide the wood grain color/pattern, it really accentuates the horizontal saw marks.
They are called tribles haha they took over station K-7
they were everywhere. Cheers!
Why not use the brush for the whole thing is it just because of the time it would take
Birds sound nice.
60 grit orbital sander would have helped a lot
You were right, they're called Tribbles, that episode is titles Trouble with Tribbles.
When my dad painted he always ended up with as much paint on him as the room he was painting!
cheap paint and a cheap brush will do that. Cheers!
why not spray instead of roll or brush?
not everyone has a sprayer. I thought i would show you how much work it was to encourage you all to get one. Cheers!
Beat the devil out of it. A hat tip to Bob Ross?
One of the all time Greats! Cheers!
The Star Trek fur balls were called Tribble
Tribbles...you had it right.
Cheers!
The Trouble With Tribbles
They were Tribbles! LoL
Episode called "The Trouble With Tribbles"
Can’t you use a primer to save money on your first coat?
Yes, this 100000% should have been primed first. No fucking way this will last 10 years. Maybe 2 or 3 tops.
If you ever consider tackling a project like this after the the time you spent watching and re-watching this video, purchasing a $25 wooster 4-8 ft sherlock extension pole, $8 wooster roller frame, $10+ 3/4" roller nap, $60 for two gallons worth of some mud-water paint from your local big box store that covers you more than the surface you're painting.. Hire me!
I'll charge you $250 (including materials) for a quality materials and finish.. plus I'll be done before you finish your coffee in the morning. Think about it!
The episode was called The Trouble With Tribbles.
Heads up -- your paint tools link in the description doesn't work.
220 grit sandpaper is TOO fine to remove mill glaze. 220 on a sander can actually create mill glaze! Use nothing finer than 100 grit!
I just painted two rooms that had this wood over half of the walls. A hellish nightmare. Brush in the center of the groove, the left of the groove, the right of the groove. Dip brush again and repeat for the bottom half. Then do that 240 more times + all the trim. Next time I paint, I’m ripping all that out.
Great plan!
Just use a paint sprayer
Star Trek answer The Trouble with Tribbles season 2 episode 15. 1967 I was 7. 😂👍💞
I was minus 3. Cheers!
We buy primer. Primer prepares the raw wood before painting.
Yes - painting T1-11 is a lot of work. I buy quality paint.
May I ask what is your opinion on McDonald's?
I happen to love it.
I love McDonalds, Mc d's does not love me anymore however. Cheers!
Spray
You need to seal the wood, get a tinted primer.
this product comes sealed already. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY does the wood come sealed or the paint you're using? Thanks
the wood has a treatment so no primer needed. Cheers!
Not true!@@HomeRenoVisionDIY