My Exterior Painting System That Lasts 10 YEARS!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Here is my technique for painting rough cut exterior cladding on your shed. This T-11 siding will absolutely eat paint, so make sure you have enough before you get started. Paint Tools: geni.us/difS4 (Amazon) To purchase C2 Paint and C2 Gaurd (used in this video) 👉🏼 c2paint.com/ho... and use discount code: HRVDIY for 20% off
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They were called Tribbles. The name of the episode was "The Trouble With Tribbles".
Also I believe voted the most liked episode
Yes! But my first though was painting with a Pomeranian 🤣
Great episode!
When painting bare wood, I highly recommend a 3 coat system: 1 coat exterior oil primer + 2 coats of premium quality exterior paint. Primer recommendations: Zinsser Cover Stain, Sherwin-Williams Extreme Block. For finish paint, stay away from big-box, hardware stores. Go with topline exterior paint from one of the "Big Three" - PPG/Dulux, Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin Moore.
Spray and back brush speed is the name of the game. If your right handed paint to your left. Your ding it bass awards.
maybe but I will use my sprayer on the next project.
I just finished a whole house with this siding (ugh), and for the grooves it really helped to buy a big pack of different size foam brushes. You can push them into any weird spot and the rough siding will eat though them pretty quick, but a couple dozen was still cheaper and neater than destroying my good brushes
for a whole house I would suggest using an airless sprayer. I am sure they rent those out at home depot.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Definitely! I did spray+roll the big broad areas, but the bottom floor was 80% trim and penetrations... the best technique would probably be to just move!
LOL. I feel Ya!
Rough wood like this would tear up foam brushes. I'd personally would not use those on this type of wood.
I'm a former painting contractor. 20 years and 650 exteriors... just trying to be helpful here. In the future if you can do it. Buy a $300 sprayer and for a 1 hour investment of time to get machine ready for the job and clean it 100% at the end, you will cut your time in half or much more. Simply turn the spray down low, so there is little over spray. Use left hand for spraying, right hand holds a 2 & 1/2 " angle brush. This combo of spray and brush in, spray and brush in will give you insane speed, do a far superior job. Keeps everything wet and no lap marks ever. Also I would personally use 1 oil primer cut with some penetrol (helps the oil primer go deeper into the wood surface). The oil seals the wood wonderfully. Give it at least 72 hours dry time for a more full cure (even though it says top coat in 1-2 hours on the can label) 2 coats of the highest grade latex you can buy after this and yes you are good for 10 years and possibly more. Use a 2 gallon bleach sprayer once a year with a 1.5% mix in water. Spray entire shed. Allow to "dwell" for 5-10 minutes and rinse well with a garden hose. This will keep the mold, mildew and dirt off. Prolong the life of the paint job tremendously. Again, just trying to be helpful. BTW.... I love your videos. Watched dozens of them over the years. You're very good and knowledgeable about so many things. Keep up the great work
Seriously, why did they get rid of exterior oil based paint. Now I have to use a oil based primer on my wood exterior house? I swear, people who make these decisions don’t actually do the labor of maintaining their home. My 15 year old wood siding home now needs to painted and has a oil based paint. I’m building a shed to match and am so aggravated trying to figure out the best exterior paint and my house was last done with Sherwin Williams oil based exterior paint. So now I have to use a primer..which primer and which exterior paint and brand for 4 seasons? Akloid ? or acrylic last the longest on exterior wood that gets bitter cold in winter ..cuz I’m not painting every 7 years😩
What can be a great substitute of wood stain that can last many years?
This seems like the perfect time to use your paint sprayer? Faster and easier
Fine I will use nit on my next job. I just don't expect most folks to have access to one. Cheers!
Correct
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY having watched you do this, and knowing you make things look easier than they are through sheer practice, THIS is the job that would convince me to hire one at least!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY lol
Thanks Jeff! I always learn something useful watching your videos, even though my projects are usually unrelated. The product and technique insights are golden!
Glad to help!
If you're just joining us, you can watch the entire series 👉🏼th-cam.com/play/PL34cQkzKfXWblEm4HmrEBkIFgIFSnEzOk.html Cheers and thanks for watching!
I have a laugh out loud moment during every video you make! “Keep your ass to the door, folks!” I appreciate the quality of your instruction and all my DIY work is great because if your tutorials. Thanks!
Cheers, but keep your ass to the door is a very vital component to great results. Cheers!
I know that the preferred go to would be a sprayer for such a texture as paneling but having lived my early life in a mobilehome back when real paneling was used inside.
I painted paneling then and now after a prep rinse roll- Roll it sideways on the first roll like puttting a hole. Then go vertical. Yes, work steady in the sun.
Lived in the south always and heat is always and mostly sunny . that wet edge is like chasing smoke.
Should say I've never been able to buy a sprayer. And my panels looked great. I enrobed my wood with paint. I was proud. Did the pump house and the shed and the chicken coop. Raw wood n shake n paneling. Was so cute!
Great work. Thanks again for the video! I might spray paint mine to avoid all the brushing and setbacks
Go for it!
When ever I paint over T-11, I always use a combination of a spraying first then go over lightly with a roller making sure the cracks are filled in. This way, there isn't any streaking and less paint has being used.
We just painted a 1600 square foot house with pine board and batten. We found using killz to seal the knots works good and a foam roller that's meant for block works best and a couple of different size brushes. To do 2 coats we where 12 gallons.
I'm doing siding just like that what a PITA! old and dry and I got rotten wood to replace.
looks like the trim wasn't caulked...
Total Aircraft: 13732 (in the air) Amazing!
"Trouble with Tribbles". I just painted an old shed and a new one 3 days ago in same tan color. I rolled and back brushed 2 coats of primer and then 2 coats of paint. Primer is cheaper than paint and it will soak into the rough surface seal it and also be a binder for the paint increase the adhesion over just paint. Primer will make everything last way longer than just paint, less flaking and peeling, I use a normal 3/8" wooster roller and the trick I used for the channels was after I applied the paint on the flat part of the siding, I tilted the roller at a 45 degree angle and used the corner of the roller to fill paint into the channels, then a quick back brush in the channel to really get it good. Same technique for trim or any corners, use the edge of the roller first then back brush. I used a 4" disposable chip brush from the HF store with natural bristles and it worked very well and only lost a few bristles.
I can't believe Jeff just made a tribble reference! 🤣
Fun to look back on what we used to entertain ourselves with eh!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY oh I'm a huge Trekkie so I knew where you were going soon as you got that look on your face.
Noice! Cheers!
as a old painter with 42 years , i always pulled our an graco airless sprayer ` for this type of work,and whizzed thru in no time,with pressure this lasted a long time.. on some surfaces an oil primer is necessary to make it more weather resistance before applying the finish coat. good bye brush and roller. as these panels love to take in water when not properly preped.
Use an airless sprayer much faster and better coverage.
great tool if you have one, or are willing to rent it. But for small jobs the cleanup is just not worth the speed.
😂😂😂 "The Trouble with Tribbles" was episode tile I think.
Cheers!
The episode of Start Trek is called Tribble Trouble. You had it right.
"buzzing the tower with a flyby"... love the reference :D
Top gun!
If you roll sideways too, you can definitely fill those grooves with the roller.
One trick is to actually turn the roller on edge and slide it down the grove, then a quick back brush.
That was the episode i think
Do not wipe your brush on the side of the can after you dip. Either tap the inside of the can on each side or shake the brush in the can. Then apply to the surface with three brush swipes. Reload the brush and do another section. Do three areas if close together and then go back to the first and second and lightly smooth it out. These two tricks will save you about 20% of your time. Oh, push yourself to go a little faster...you will get more done in less time. (Thirty years painting...) What the hell, another tip. Whenever possible, pour your paint into a 5-gal bucket. Use a grill and a 9-inch roller on a stick. Dip the roller halfway into the paint. Do this several times if the roller is clean. After loading the roller (dipping the roller) roll it on the grid, lightly tap the roller bar on the inner edge of the pail and begin to roll.
Jeff,
Complete novice w/ construction, but I do know Trek. The episode was "The Trouble with Tribbles." 😊
The Trouble with Tribbles is the name of the Star Trek episode.
It was " Trouble with tribbles" 😊
Dumb question Jeff, what are your thoughts of painting that type of wood with a sprayer?
depends on the size of the project. this size of shed was about a 50/50 for me because I don't like to set up all the masking and clean the machine when I am done for small jobs. It would work fine as lomng as you back rolled after spraying to get good adhesion. Cheers!
Tribbles..just because someone else beat me to it ;)
LOl, Thanks for that!
Love the video, but here are a couple of tips for you and your viewers! Only roll one panel per dip, go extra heavy on loading up the roller and have someone back brush the extra paint as you go. On new wood like in your video it is essential that you back brush weather spraying or rolling because of adhesion and it always takes two coats. Oh and I add mold inhibitors to the paint.
Thanks for sharing
It there a reason you didn't use a sprayer for this project?
I don't see any benefit on a small job. by the time most folks go rent a machine and then clean it up and mask the deck and doors the net benefit is gone. On larger jobs the sprayer makes sense. Cheers!
@@joseph7105 I'm a DIY person myself and used a sprayer for my room addition exterior. I installed primed fiber cement shingle panels then borrowed a simple Wagner sprayer and it worked great. A paint sprayer is definitely DIY tool.
How about using a water base of oil base primer to prevent the top coat from skinning ?
I noticed you didn't use a primer first, is it because the paint already has primer in it? What do you recommend?
How would you recommend painting cedar shutters?
Tribbles from Star Trek Jeff!
Birds sound nice.
Beat the devil out of it. A hat tip to Bob Ross?
One of the all time Greats! Cheers!
They are called tribles haha they took over station K-7
they were everywhere. Cheers!
We bought a house with a shed this year and the T111 is in rotted near the bottom. What's the easiest way to fix it? Cut out the rotted part and replace, or replace the entire panel? If I cut and replace just the rotted part, how do I seal it by the cut?
I'm also wondering how to prevent future rotting. I'm guessing this was caused by water falling off the shed roof and hitting it. Is there a ground cover which would prevent rain runoff from splashing on the sides?
Update: going to cut out the rotted parts and replace with fresh T111 and caulk the gaps, then paint.
Going to put on gutters unless I find plants that dissipate splashing for cheaper
Come up 12 inches or 16 inches from the bottom of the T111 and pop a line all the way across the wall, set your saw to the thickness of the T111, cut on your line, slide some galvanized "Z' flashing underneath the old T111, cut your new pieces of T111, put 2 coats of PPG Gripper primer on the bottom edge of each piece that faces the ground and 3 inches up the backside, put each piece up, put 2 coats of primer on the rest and also 2 coats of paint and don't forget to also put 2 coats of paint on the bottom edge of the new T111 pieces that face the ground.
99% of the time people don't primer and paint the bottom edge of the siding that is towards the ground and that's what causes the rot. All the major sidings web sites say to do this on their installation instructions.
when/where was this filmed that the robins are nesting and all the plants are green? Sure doesn't seem like November in Canada!
Shed looks good!
May I ask a silly question? If the home already has exsisting paint NOT peeling but a color that I dont like, can I just paint over it? I know i need to power wash but other then that?
Tell me how to keep rodants out, thanks.
The way that sheathing was milled is so crappy. Once you paint over it and hide the wood grain color/pattern, it really accentuates the horizontal saw marks.
First you said you can paint the caulk right away, then you said you have to wait 24 hrs. We'll, what is it? And aren't we supposed to prime exterior wood?
I watched your videos on vinyl flooring and idk if I missed it somewhere, but how should I install cabinets, appliances and vinyl plank flooring together? If you already did a video about this can you link it for me please? I have concrete floors and was wondering if I’m supposed to put some type of wood down to match the height of the floors before putting in the cabinets and appliances? Also what should all should I put under the flooring? I know it needs vapor barrier, and the vinyl flooring I’m looking at comes with underpayment attached.
Tribbles...you had it right.
Cheers!
I've watched other videos where an oil based primer and then an acrylic based top coat was used. Is that the best way to paint exterior wood?
the real secret is keeping it dry. don.t have organics like bushes against the house. This material already comes with a sealer in it.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks
T--111 is not pre-sealed!@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
Wouldn't using a low-pressure, high-volume air gun for painting a better idea?
Why not use the brush for the whole thing is it just because of the time it would take
I'd add Enron harding to the paint. Bad stuff but really good. Has enyone used it in this tip of paint?
You were right, tribble lol
I would like to paint my kitchen counters and backsplash both are ceramic 10”x10” with grout. Pls . Any info would help. Thankyou. Kevin.
some things I just can't recommend. I would suggest tile over tile install first before painting in a food prep area! Cheers!
I have a couple of columns (I think they're fibreglass or some kind of resin) here in Ontario and the paint keeps peeling off. Any advice for the best way to repaint them? How is the best way to prep the columns and which type of paint?
look into a primer than is designed to bond to the material your columns are made of, 2 coats of primer after lots of sanding and wire brushing old paint, then use a high quality exterior enamel. I like the Ben Moore products, pricey, but they go on well and hold up very well. The prep takes the most time, time is money, so do it right the first time and by top tier materials.
Spray
They were Tribbles! LoL
Episode called "The Trouble With Tribbles"
The trouble with tribbles
The trouble with Tribbles.
The episode was called The Trouble With Tribbles.
Heads up -- your paint tools link in the description doesn't work.
Tribble!
God that was n sooo Corny eh!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Corny but cute! They would be useful if amenable to training, and clear gutters and downpipes.
why not spray instead of roll or brush?
not everyone has a sprayer. I thought i would show you how much work it was to encourage you all to get one. Cheers!
Spray and backroll is the way much faster.
Why didn’t you prime first? Also “Star Trek” The trouble with Tribbles!
Tribbles
Star Trek answer The Trouble with Tribbles season 2 episode 15. 1967 I was 7. 😂👍💞
I was minus 3. Cheers!
Trouble with tribbles! I loled at star trek, knew right where you were going.
Please pin a comment that name the fuzzy little creatures that seem cute in the beginning, then turn out to be a menace.
The Trouble with Tribbles
220 grit sandpaper is TOO fine to remove mill glaze. 220 on a sander can actually create mill glaze! Use nothing finer than 100 grit!
We buy primer. Primer prepares the raw wood before painting.
Yes - painting T1-11 is a lot of work. I buy quality paint.
knitted roller next time
That’s not a paint roller. That’s a freaking sheep
You need to seal the wood, get a tinted primer.
this product comes sealed already. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY does the wood come sealed or the paint you're using? Thanks
the wood has a treatment so no primer needed. Cheers!
Not true!@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
If you ever consider tackling a project like this after the the time you spent watching and re-watching this video, purchasing a $25 wooster 4-8 ft sherlock extension pole, $8 wooster roller frame, $10+ 3/4" roller nap, $60 for two gallons worth of some mud-water paint from your local big box store that covers you more than the surface you're painting.. Hire me!
I'll charge you $250 (including materials) for a quality materials and finish.. plus I'll be done before you finish your coffee in the morning. Think about it!
Why not spray?
I buy good paint that was returned for like $9. I paint with that so the color and paint I want is much less
That works!
man I watched your framing on this and we could pass for brothers . about the same age and grey and hair line .but brother you need to hit the cardio you shouldnt be so winded lifting that roof system. I myself am 5 10 and have framed since the age of 17 even at my age it takes alot more than 6 2x4 s to get me breathing hard ..seem like a great guy do us all a favor and stay around a good long time and push yourself and get in better shape. your family will thank you and so will your back and knees
Tribbles, yes! Not sure of the spelling. They looked like furry caterpillars.
Avoid all the hassle SPRAY PAINT. And you were right Tribbles are trouble
Tribbles Are Trouble or Tribble Troubles or Troubles With Tribbles.
❤
No primer?
Nevermind, read some other replies
Tribbles, sir. Those were the furry "Star Trek" creatures that specialized in eating and reproducing.
Cheers Wade!
They were called Ewoks !
I don't like it because I DIY everything but companies should supply the folks feeding their family first before the big box stores. It should go contractors, ma and pop shops, and then big box stores.
First world problems there my friend. Cheers!
maybe a sprayer
Buy a 40$ sprayer - throw it away. Worth it.
that kind is too slow for this job. Cheers! But I like where your head is at.
Hey Jeff do you find the market is slowing down in construction? I'm concerned about inflation and a big recession people will start putting off repairs and home improvement, what do you think? I'm a handyman/contractor in Toronto
The next recession will only hurt the poor folks among us. There is going to be plenty of work for you not to worry. Cheers!
There is no possible way this will yield a 10 year paint job.
Why aren't you priming, this will peel
How am I to trust your system "that lasts 10 years" when you basically had issues with both roller types out the gate? Rather, if this is proven - why even use the wrong roller out the gate? Just being honest but it's made me lose faith the rest of the video is gonna prove to be a proven system.
wrong roller better off with the other one Thats why you eating the paint up!!!!
The floor pan is sign of an amateur.
10 years isn’t good enough… that’s typical North American cheapism… the goal should be 50, 75, 100 years…
Don't build anything outdoors in wood period lol Vinyl, pvc, trex etc this shed is a joke. Cheap piece of junk.
For that kind of surface I'd use an HVLP sprayer. The small portable ones (like Wagner) are relatively cheap (less than €200) and useful for many surfaces and have the option of a different head for interior cabinetry work.
My thoughts exactly but will it handle this kind of paint.
@@CalebGibbsAvenue Should do; I checked the C2 website (from Spain) and the C5200 is latex based and sprayable without thinning. The C5300 is acrylic but I cannot find its data sheet. I have an old version of the Wagner FLEXIO 4000 with what they now call an iSpray head which handles latex and acrylic. These are simple to test and adjust even without thinning for sample rough surfaces - even if you need to use two coats.
That would be a great addition to the toolbox for many folks. Cheers!
Will an air Sprayer work as well? I'm not familiar with what air Sprayer limits.
That's all i'v ever used
@@CalebGibbsAvenue By which I presume you mean from a compressor using "high pressure". Yes, but you will need to verify the nozzle size for acrylic/latex paint and you have to use very low pressure. The pressure in an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure - often also called "airless") system (like the Wagner) is pretty much no more than the inverse of a vacuum cleaner at its lowest settings - hence high volume. In a compressed air system the paint/thinner mixture is effectively atomised (misted) under the pressure which is more what you'd want with lacquer etc. (as in car/metal spraying) - this is High Pressure Low Volume (thinner is used generally with such paints because of the small nozzle size required). Larger (i.e. more expensive) HVLP systems (€450+) may have limited pressure control but the "domestic use" HVLPs generally don't, or only have a high/low setting. I'm not a pro - but I have used HVLP in a domestic setting for a few years and I've found HVLP to be very useful since I don't intend spraying cars!
Great video ,,,,,,I have tried all different styles of painting ,,,but i have found what works best for me is let my wife do the painting
I have learned ,some things with your help ,that it's definitely worth every penny to buy high quality paint! I also have figured out that airless spayers are worth every penny,especially for the exterior! I also stopped buying paint from the big box stores. I discovered that even the so called cheap paint sold at actual paint stores is better than the crap big box store sell as premium paint. My local paint store even gave me "contractor prices". My best advice I could give people is to just visit your local paint store and just talk to them about your project. You'll probably find out that right away your getting a whole different level of service! That is something that big box stores just don't do.
Crazy how professional advice is right there but folks don't go visit . Cheers!
The easier/better way is to buy 5 gallons put a grid screen in it, roll out the paint (1-1/4 lamb skin) on the siding (get the edges) and trim before you build the shed, and then do a little touch-up after the shed is built. When you are done no need to clean the roller just keep it in the bucket until the next job. You can also use a cheap corner foam roller for the groves. Or of course, use an airless sprayer.