Sorry don’t know why this posted twice I have been a professional caulker for over45 years. You are absolutely right about NP1 . I have used more NP1 than I care to remember. You are also absolutely right about ANY sealant that says not to tool it.Including Quad. If you check their tech sheets they are all garbage. I don’t understand how anyone could think Quad is a premium sealant .( their tech data says don’t use in expansion joints or butt joints, 1/4” min 3/8” max joint size (only 1/8” tolerance), use only on residential or medium rise buildings,Just to name a few) If it’s not good enough for commercial applications it’s not good enough to use on your home. Water infiltration is no place to go to second best. Well done video with solid information. One hint,tool both directions to improve adhesion. One direction with tool( jumbo popsicle stick😜 )at a very low angle just gently pushing against the top of the sealant,then the other way at a steeper angle for final joint size.And thank you for dry tooling. Using liquids to tool is absolutely wrong.👍👍👍 Now throw the big stretch in the trash. Never choose a lesser product because it’s easier to use. It’s still a lesser product and should never be used on exteriors( despite what they claim.) NP 1 often lasts 20 years or more when properly installed. And I would wait 7 days before painting it for best results.
Also, the warranty states 1 year?? Based on your review would you state it lasts longer than the other brands (DAP Amp) which provides a lifetime warranty?
@@AmerCorrodi many consumer based sealants have a lifetime warranty, but it is just a sales gimmick. (Even GE is guilty of this with their consumer based products) If you read the entire warranty ( usually hidden online) and how to claim them it’s easy to see. Most say “ as long as you live in your home”, in the USA that is an average of 7 years. ( last time I checked) Then “all you have to do” is return the cartridge and the sales receipt. The majority of homeowners don’t keep either very long. And lastly, homeowners generally buy 2 or 3 cartridges at a time,so it usually isn’t worth the hassle. So the manufacturers know that very few people will claim the warranty. The largest manufacturers of the highest quality industrial sealants only offer a 20 year performance warranty. To qualify for this extended warranty,requires pretty extensive documentation and testing, ( often by an independent testing lab) throughout the project. And having to stick to very strict installation requirements.Almost all of these extended warranties are on very large industrial or commercial buildings like high rise buildings. Using 10s of thousands of dollars in sealants.Having said this most QUALITY industrial sealants will last 20-30 years when properly installed. They just won’t be guaranteed that long because the manufacturer has no control over the installation. So just the thought of a lifetime warranty on something installed by a homeowner is pretty ridiculous.Not that homeowners can’t install it correctly but the manufacturers have zero control over what homeowners do. I would never use ANY DAP product in anything but interior paint prep.
Long-time subscriber. Your videos have been helping me with all the honey-do's I got going around the house. It's like having an older, more experienced brother helping me. Thank you for all the educational videos.
What the heck.. I didn't know caulking guns were inside or outside with different push ratios. I just thought there was cheap frames and then better frames. Lol Thank-you Sir!
This was a big Help. I have a couple of older windows. With aluminum on ..I need to scape off old caulk. . But I have the tool for the job.. I kinda remembered how I did this 44 yrs ago.. good refresher course . Thank you very much.
Great demo! Do you have one where you're caulking against a vinyl window AND brick. That's a whole new kettle of fish. Your nice wooden corner is about as easy as it gets. Well done and thanks.
I bought 12 bottles of NP1 and started the process of caulking failing caulk. The crazy thing is that i can't find too many people using NP1, probably because it takes forever to cure, but if it's going to last why not! It's also more expensive. Thanks for this video, caulking is hard work and you have to have skills.
Thank you for your straight forward tutorials and no nonsense explanations. Your videos have answered many of my questions and have made my home improvement tasks much easier.
You should do a video on caulking/tooling an exterior surface with uneven brick/stone butting up against an even surface like a brickmould. In those instances you sometimes get gaps almost an inch wide and would need a sausage gun
You don’t need a sausage gun. You can use cartridges. I have done it hundreds of times.( sausages ARE far more convenient and efficient in this situation, but not required) backer rod is required.
When it comes to applying caulking (especially demanding applications like exterior) that will last, not crack, there are two words I've discovered, bond breaker. You could use the best caulk/sealant applied very clean and it may still fail even though it specifies how it can handle stretching from expansion, compression and shear. Often some type of backer rod acts as the bond breaker (because it also moves and hardly bonds) but in many applications a bond breaker tape is needed. You could do a video on this little-know (especially in non-commercial circles) caulking detail.
You are 100% right.The use of backer rod when possible IS essential. It comes from 1/4” to 4” so you can almost always use it. So only sometimes you will bond breaker tape.
Great video. Though I have noticed that most caulking videos show doing an "inside edge" where the edges wrap toward the bead. What about where the edges wrap away from the bead (i.e. the base of a wooden porch pillar? To put it another way ... if the corner is a L ... most videos show caulking the inside of the L seam rather than the outside of the L seam.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thanks! I am looking at having to repaint some pillars and the base boards have spread a bit, so looking to throw some caulk down before painting!
What tool would you use to caulk an exterior window that is more flush with the trim? Rather than the 90 degree corner you are demonstrating here. Not exactly flush, but pretty close. We have stucco that is cracking around a couple windows and leaking water in our house. Thanks in advance.
You seem to lean towards handyman type carpentry (I think this is like the 4th caulk video I've seen lately), so I don't know if it's in your wheelhouse or not, but I could really use a good video on exterior sheathing, i.e. tyvek vs zip, how to do a good job, etc. Anyone whose been around construction long enough knows how to frame a wall and throw up some board, but I would really like to know how and where I need to seal an exterior wall before siding.
I picked up a set of plastic, caulking spreaders with various radii cut into the corners. Works great indoors (baseboards and bathrooms), haven’t tried them outside though.
You need to get a small bottle sprayer with slighly soapy water in it or even some spray cleaner will work, like maybe windex or fantastic. Spray the fresh caulk immediately after carefully and evenly applying it and get the bead and your finger slippery this will allow you to tool or move the caulk around where you want it with your finger to achieve a nice smooth even bead. The soapy water wont hurt it and it will dry. Thats how the pros that care about how their work looks do it. Ive been using the technique for years. This is what I do for the non water based caulks.
When cleaning up the edges, you can ride your finger on the other side of the caulk. This helps a lot to keep a very precise distance, not to leave any excess behind and not to waste your freshly laid caulk.
Do you have any advise on a color matching caulk to use on Hardie Board that I can touch/tooling with? It’s facing a west facing window facade & it keeps drying out. Thank you in advance & great tips 🙏🏻!
Hi! Love your videos! I had a question about caulking around the windows of exterior French doors. My primer (Zinser 1-2-3) and paint (SW Emerald) did not stick well around the inside edges of the window frame and it looks like crap. Could I caulk around the edges of the window frame and paint the caulked areas? Sure do appreciate any advice you could give me!
Good video. I use the Elmer's wood filler on miters as well. I usually just use a multi tool with a triangular sanding pad using 150. I find the shape of the triangular pad makes it a lot easier for this task
You do caulking the wrong way like most people. You drag the tip along the joint leaving a bead of caulk behind. If you push the tip along the joint keeping a small bead of caulk ahead of the tip(takes a bit of practice) the tip tools the joint during application. Been a licensed general(remodeling) contractor since 1982. An older painter at a very expensive home taught me this. If you do it correctly there is very little waste material.
Thanks for sharing. You're saying to caulk in a forward direction, with the the caulk gun pointed forward, in the direction I'm caulking towards. Right? As opposed to facing the tip away from the forward direction and dragging along the work area. Ye
I was just taught this method, it helps with pushing the caulking into the cracks vs. Dragging and pulling the caulk out of the cracks and relying on the tooling to push caulk into openings
Great video. Subscribed and thank you! I used the popsicle stick trick yesterday with OSI Quad caulk. It's a sticky caulk, but tooled well with the stick. I'm going to try some of the alternatives you mentioned in your video that are easier to tool on my next project.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Excellent; thank you! I have long, vertical exterior siding and some, small parts/areas of the strips of caulking (that have already been painted over several times) is cracked. I am getting everything prepped to repaint the exterior. Do I pull off and replace ALL of each, entire caulking strip if only a small part of that caulking strip has a crack in it? We have two, entire sides of our house done with top to bottom INDIVIDUAL vertical siding boards, so if we have to remove all of the caulking and replace it on each, individual side board before painting, it will be a BIG job for us. My husband is telling me that I just need to only cut out and replace the cracked parts of the caulking, versus pulling off and redoing the entire caulking strips along all of the siding boards, since the caulking is already adhered to the old paint (no peeling or cracking of the paint btw). He said pulling off the entire strips of caulking, would also pull off and peel a bunch of layers of paint off along with it which would cause more problems with repainting. I have Googled, searched TH-cam, and looked everywhere I can think of and can’t find the answer to this. I would REALLY appreciate it if you would respond. 🙏🏻🌎 Would I use a box cutter to cut out the caulking strips so I don’t pull paint off with it?
Hey bud, nice work on an exterior inside corner! Can you demonstrate on an exterior outside corner? Particular, I installed white fascia on a deck and have several outside corners that came together with a small gap. I caulked the corners pretty well and they looked great. Unfortunately, due to settlement and seasonal changes, the caulk did not last and looked like the caulking you showed at the beginning of your video.
@@signintoconfirm5175never use any Dap products on the exterior. They make all kinds of claims but they are almost all modified acrylic,the lowest quality sealant you can buy. NP1 is a commercial polyurethane sealant used in industry long before it was available to consumers.
I started using Loctite Windows and Siding Polyurethane Sealant. It's tool-able but very tacky. A good caulk job starts with the application. For larger gaps, run a bead and push it into the gap. Let it fully cure then apply another bead. It wont split again unless you have a lot of movement in your substrate
OK, so I am caulking down the side of a brick fireplace and a smooth board that replaced two knick knack built in wall bookcases. I had to fill a large gap where the brick meets the board with the caulking and the first application sucked into the gap so retaped and applied another layer. Terrible job when I pulled the tape it left a ridge and poor coverage. Can I actually go in one more time and recaulk over the first two applications?? Thanks for the video!
I have a question and a feeling what the answer will be, I have old 70’s Anderson basement windows that I decided to keep rather than replace. I had all my upper windows replaced and new metal siding installed that raps around these basement windows for some protection but the wood around the sash is exposed, the guy who installed the siding does also install windows and anyways he used a heavy duty caulk that matched the metal trim around not just the metal but as a way to connect it to the wood and eliminate moisture getting in. Well a year later that caulk has deep cracks on 3 out of 4 windows. I’ve sanded and scraped and prepared the old wood sash and some of the frame I have access to for a fresh coat of oil based exterior primer and paint. Do I rip out this caulking where it failed or can I apply new caulk over the gaps and tears? The other issue with him caulking all the way around is I’m sure moisture is getting into those cracks and I have exposed wood behind that caulk so I’m wondering if I should rip out it out and get to the wood behind it? Ik the caulk is filling where wood had already rotted some and left gaps to inside but I don’t know how bad. Only one window sash rotted clear through causing moisture to come all the way inside which I caught after a rainstorm. I had to literally pull out the entire bottom sash, took all day to loosen the old caulk this guy put on and I’ve rebuilt the sash to fit the glass, I’d like I need to use glazing putty oil based, etc. I’m just not sure with the other windows should I go ahead and rip out that caulk put on a year ago?
As a sider who uses quad everyday, I can say that if you took quad you'll automatically break it down and a year later it will turn into a white powdery substance that you can scratch off. Every product says to setup scrap pieces to practice on, once you're used to caulking you can lay amazing beads that need to attention.
If by “ no attention” you mean doesn’t need to be tooled you are 100% wrong. Every Quality sealant manufacturer says to dry tool to improve adhesion. If you don’t tool the sealant it won’t pass a proper adhesion test.
@@genecarden780 you're wrong, go to home Depot and read a tube of quad. Then do yourself a favor; buy a colour tube, lay a bead on something, tool that and leave it outside for a year and see what happens.
@@batmansdad3195 I said “ quality” sealant. Quad is not a quality sealant. Quad data sheet says “ Only recommended for residential or low rise buildings Do not use for expansion or butt joints. Minimum joint size 1/4” max is 3/8” that is 1/8” tolerance.” ( that makes its use VERY limited) It also shrinks 23% Another red flag is you have to get permission to use it in commercial applications. Quad max. has a minimum control joint width of 3/8” and a max joint width of 5/8” ( a little better but still only 1/4” tolerance) Both say “water RESISTANT” not water proof. ( by definition this means it is not a waterproofing sealant and is a deal breaker) This information is directly from their data sheet.( it is not possible to make sealant consistently waterproof without tooling. 99% of building materials are not smooth they have irregular surfaces with voids that the sealant must be tooled to fill. Toolings primary function is to improve the bond and fill tiny voids. Aesthetics is secondary. I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. Quad will not pass a typical adhesion test because you can not tool it.Plus it is not waterproof it is water resistant. A quality professional caulking/ waterproofing contractor would never use either of these. They are inferior products. And as you stated if you tool it,it turns to crap. NP1 is an industrial grade construction sealant marketed to the caulking/waterproofing industry,that they made available to the consumer. And is waterproof. Quad is a consumer grade “sealant” that doesn’t market to the commercial caulking/waterproofing industry because they can’t meet their quality demands. And is not rated as waterproof. The fact is Quad has very low quality specs.
Use the Np1 and some painters tape. Tool it until you can see the edge of the tape. Immediately remove the tape pulling it back over itself. Make sure when you apply the tape you press it in well
I have board and batten siding but someone told me that I shouldn’t caulk around the batten as it can trap moisture more. Only caulk the areas such as around the windows. Is that correct?
Love your videos I was wondering if you had a video of a good brand of caulking for bathroom tubs that’s for applying and is easy to remove down the line when it’s molding
I noticed that the caulk gun company has a model one step down with 12:1 thrust ratio. Is that not ok for normal household use? Doe the higher ratio of the one linked mean more material is pushed out making iy for a more experienced user?
It's creepy how TH-cam saw how bad an exterior caulking job I just did and then recommended me this video. I look forward to when it can read my thoughts and recommend me a video *before* I need it.
I use my finger all the time. I have acrylic painters caulk in corners that have lasted as long or longer than tape and mud. And I definitely “tool” quad. That shit is so sticky it’s almost adhesive. Never knew the tube itself said not to. But also never had a problem
I had a handyman service use the Quad osi product around windows. It looks bad because they tooled it. Can I go over it with either of the 2 products you recommended or does the Quad have to be removed first? Thx! Ugh!
Is there a reason to not use dynaflex 230 that you recommend in the other video, for the exterior? The package itself claims it's fine for the exterior application
Is the big stretch caulk 100% water proof? Can it with stand temperature changes from hot summer months to cold freezing winter months? Is it toolable with the popsicle stick?
Hi. I am wondering if you have any experience with Dynaflex Ultra. It is toolable and more suited for outdoors than 230. NP1 is hard to come by here in Ottawa.
So big stretch holds up? So far I've had paint crack not the caulk yet. Only a year in. I would love to make a video I just might. I enjoy that it's aimed at beginners but man there are so many awesome tricks of the trade. Cool video and yes that gun is great but save some money. They mold a bunch of brands with that gun might as well not pay more for a name. . Mines 5 years old and has done miles of caulkin
Just did a reseal on a ocean facing home. The idiots obviously didn't run the bead into the space, and every window had openings...so good old me used bigstretch, cut a tiny bit of tip off, and really forced it into the gap. Tomorrow is paint day
I ran into the same thing with the Quad. No tooling! Getting it perfect without tooling is just not possible for me. Especially with how sticky it is. It goops and pulls to everything.
Warning guys: some of those exterior caulkings have different dry/cure times. The MasterSeal takes over a week. I was using it for something completely not what its intended for and didn't know about the 1+ week.
i just went looking for the NP1 master seal and can’t find it at Lowe’s, HD or Ace. Lowe’s told me it’s discontinued from their inventory. I live in the NW USA. Anybody have same issue or know where to find?
Just found and subscribed to your channel and have been watching nonstop and sharing:) But I need to know, to chalk or not between baseboard and LVP? Mfg. says only silicon if you have to, Yuk! But I love "230" Thank you SO Much :):):)
Waited a long time to get to the actual demo. There is a lot to think about in choice, but I thought this video was about technique. Then, there is a small closeup of what the technique is, that didn’t really help me, a real novice. Would have liked to see a close up of the application amount and the cleanup from bottom to top.
Endless bathroom, window jobs ruined by bad jobs. For your own home, use painters tape, brick use white tape, gun in and tool until satisfied. Remove tape, wet tool with soapy spray bottle and water with plastic spoon if needed at all. This way clean straight lines. This makes or breaks the job.
Hi. Great teaching and demonstration, as usual, but I cringed at part of it while showing my son your method of caulking. At 1:54-1:56, you did something unsafe with the knife blade. To wit, you waved it downward to your front, while waving you other hand upward a few inches away and your eyes were on the tube you were going to pick up. I'm always training safety, safety, safety, so it stuck out to me and my son. Stay safe and keep teaching.
Excellent catch, the utility knife is the most dangerous tool I own. Not hard to imagine with my cavalier attitude towards the knife….it’s bit me more than once!
Thank you so much! Old lady's with no one to call on for help with projects, sure appreciate you!!!!
I'm an old lady DIY'er too! Nobody to call just trying to figure old. 😊
Sorry don’t know why this posted twice
I have been a professional caulker for over45 years. You are absolutely right about NP1 . I have used more NP1 than I care to remember.
You are also absolutely right about ANY sealant that says not to tool it.Including Quad. If you check their tech sheets they are all garbage. I don’t understand how anyone could think Quad is a premium sealant .( their tech data says don’t use in expansion joints or butt joints, 1/4” min 3/8” max joint size (only 1/8” tolerance), use only on residential or medium rise buildings,Just to name a few) If it’s not good enough for commercial applications it’s not good enough to use on your home. Water infiltration is no place to go to second best.
Well done video with solid information. One hint,tool both directions to improve adhesion. One direction with tool( jumbo popsicle stick😜 )at a very low angle just gently pushing against the top of the sealant,then the other way at a steeper angle for final joint size.And thank you for dry tooling. Using liquids to tool is absolutely wrong.👍👍👍 Now throw the big stretch in the trash. Never choose a lesser product because it’s easier to use. It’s still a lesser product and should never be used on exteriors( despite what they claim.) NP 1 often lasts 20 years or more when properly installed. And I would wait 7 days before painting it for best results.
Also, the warranty states 1 year?? Based on your review would you state it lasts longer than the other brands (DAP Amp) which provides a lifetime warranty?
@@AmerCorrodi many consumer based sealants have a lifetime warranty, but it is just a sales gimmick. (Even GE is guilty of this with their consumer based products) If you read the entire warranty ( usually hidden online) and how to claim them it’s easy to see. Most say “ as long as you live in your home”, in the USA that is an average of 7 years. ( last time I checked) Then “all you have to do” is return the cartridge and the sales receipt. The majority of homeowners don’t keep either very long. And lastly, homeowners generally buy 2 or 3 cartridges at a time,so it usually isn’t worth the hassle. So the manufacturers know that very few people will claim the warranty.
The largest manufacturers of the highest quality industrial sealants only offer a 20 year performance warranty. To qualify for this extended warranty,requires pretty extensive documentation and testing, ( often by an independent testing lab) throughout the project. And having to stick to very strict installation requirements.Almost all of these extended warranties are on very large industrial or commercial buildings like high rise buildings. Using 10s of thousands of dollars in sealants.Having said this most QUALITY industrial sealants will last 20-30 years when properly installed. They just won’t be guaranteed that long because the manufacturer has no control over the installation. So just the thought of a lifetime warranty on something installed by a homeowner is pretty ridiculous.Not that homeowners can’t install it correctly but the manufacturers have zero control over what homeowners do.
I would never use ANY DAP product in anything but interior paint prep.
Long-time subscriber. Your videos have been helping me with all the honey-do's I got going around the house. It's like having an older, more experienced brother helping me. Thank you for all the educational videos.
Cheers James🍻 best wishes on your future projects!
What the heck.. I didn't know caulking guns were inside or outside with different push ratios. I just thought there was cheap frames and then better frames. Lol Thank-you Sir!
Same!! Mind is blown!
I knew about the ratios. I believe there is actually more than the two he said. I did not know they considered one interior and one exterior
I felt like an 8th grader sitting in a college classroom. Great in-depth information.
This was a big Help. I have a couple of older windows. With aluminum on ..I need to scape off old caulk. . But I have the tool for the job.. I kinda remembered how I did this 44 yrs ago.. good refresher course . Thank you very much.
the best part of the vids is your outtakes. two thumbs up.
Man your timing is AWESOME...thanks for this and keep up the great content !
Thanks Troy, best wishes on the upcoming project🍻
Great demo! Do you have one where you're caulking against a vinyl window AND brick. That's a whole new kettle of fish. Your nice wooden corner is about as easy as it gets. Well done and thanks.
I bought 12 bottles of NP1 and started the process of caulking failing caulk. The crazy thing is that i can't find too many people using NP1, probably because it takes forever to cure, but if it's going to last why not! It's also more expensive. Thanks for this video, caulking is hard work and you have to have skills.
Thank you for your straight forward tutorials and no nonsense explanations. Your videos have answered many of my questions and have made my home improvement tasks much easier.
Best caulking video on TH-cam.
You should do a video on caulking/tooling an exterior surface with uneven brick/stone butting up against an even surface like a brickmould. In those instances you sometimes get gaps almost an inch wide and would need a sausage gun
You don’t need a sausage gun. You can use cartridges. I have done it hundreds of times.( sausages ARE far more convenient and efficient in this situation, but not required) backer rod is required.
When it comes to applying caulking (especially demanding applications like exterior) that will last, not crack, there are two words I've discovered, bond breaker. You could use the best caulk/sealant applied very clean and it may still fail even though it specifies how it can handle stretching from expansion, compression and shear. Often some type of backer rod acts as the bond breaker (because it also moves and hardly bonds) but in many applications a bond breaker tape is needed. You could do a video on this little-know (especially in non-commercial circles) caulking detail.
You are 100% right.The use of backer rod when possible IS essential. It comes from 1/4” to 4” so you can almost always use it. So only sometimes you will bond breaker tape.
Thank you for the new tips on croaking outside exterior molding I am female and I diy all the time so this really helps😊
Good tips, thanks for the popsicle stick idea.
Your workshop is looking good! Did you build new lower cabinets?
THE MAGIC MARKER ON THE TIP!
Beautiful workshop! Love the drawers.
GE silicone paintable, have you used any silicone. What is your issue not recommending these?
Great video. Though I have noticed that most caulking videos show doing an "inside edge" where the edges wrap toward the bead. What about where the edges wrap away from the bead (i.e. the base of a wooden porch pillar?
To put it another way ... if the corner is a L ... most videos show caulking the inside of the L seam rather than the outside of the L seam.
For an outside you can hold the tip fairly flat and try and force it into any gaps, and then tool it with the flat part of the popsicle stick.
@@TheFunnyCarpenterI hate to say anything good about anyone else, but that makes a lot of sense. I'll try it.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thanks! I am looking at having to repaint some pillars and the base boards have spread a bit, so looking to throw some caulk down before painting!
Great video, but what are the blue caps you have on the cartridges?
What tool would you use to caulk an exterior window that is more flush with the trim? Rather than the 90 degree corner you are demonstrating here. Not exactly flush, but pretty close. We have stucco that is cracking around a couple windows and leaking water in our house. Thanks in advance.
This is fantastic! I noticed recently how much of my exterior caulking is cracked so this project is coming up for me.
Thank you!
Thx so much, this is empowering for us female DYI'rs! I found the end of plastic clothes pins works great for a "tool" and can be reused.
You seem to lean towards handyman type carpentry (I think this is like the 4th caulk video I've seen lately), so I don't know if it's in your wheelhouse or not, but I could really use a good video on exterior sheathing, i.e. tyvek vs zip, how to do a good job, etc. Anyone whose been around construction long enough knows how to frame a wall and throw up some board, but I would really like to know how and where I need to seal an exterior wall before siding.
Great info! Which one of these will not collect dirt if left unpainted. I need to apply this between two windows stacked, so it will not be painted.
I picked up a set of plastic, caulking spreaders with various radii cut into the corners. Works great indoors (baseboards and bathrooms), haven’t tried them outside though.
You need to get a small bottle sprayer with slighly soapy water in it or even some spray cleaner will work, like maybe windex or fantastic. Spray the fresh caulk immediately after carefully and evenly applying it and get the bead and your finger slippery this will allow you to tool or move the caulk around where you want it with your finger to achieve a nice smooth even bead. The soapy water wont hurt it and it will dry. Thats how the pros that care about how their work looks do it. Ive been using the technique for years. This is what I do for the non water based caulks.
When cleaning up the edges, you can ride your finger on the other side of the caulk. This helps a lot to keep a very precise distance, not to leave any excess behind and not to waste your freshly laid caulk.
Can you explain how to do this when your trim/windows are next to bricks? Thanks
Have a great weekend. And as always great content!
Cheers buddy, you to🍻I’m off fishing tomorrow, so should be a great one.
Do you have any advise on a color matching caulk to use on Hardie Board that I can touch/tooling with?
It’s facing a west facing window facade & it keeps drying out.
Thank you in advance & great tips 🙏🏻!
Hi! Love your videos! I had a question about caulking around the windows of exterior French doors. My primer (Zinser 1-2-3) and paint (SW Emerald) did not stick well around the inside edges of the window frame and it looks like crap. Could I caulk around the edges of the window frame and paint the caulked areas? Sure do appreciate any advice you could give me!
Good video. I use the Elmer's wood filler on miters as well. I usually just use a multi tool with a triangular sanding pad using 150. I find the shape of the triangular pad makes it a lot easier for this task
You do caulking the wrong way like most people. You drag the tip along the joint leaving a bead of caulk behind. If you push the tip along the joint keeping a small bead of caulk ahead of the tip(takes a bit of practice) the tip tools the joint during application. Been a licensed general(remodeling) contractor since 1982. An older painter at a very expensive home taught me this. If you do it correctly there is very little waste material.
Thanks for sharing.
You're saying to caulk in a forward direction, with the the caulk gun pointed forward, in the direction I'm caulking towards. Right?
As opposed to facing the tip away from the forward direction and dragging along the work area.
Ye
I was just taught this method, it helps with pushing the caulking into the cracks vs. Dragging and pulling the caulk out of the cracks and relying on the tooling to push caulk into openings
I haven’t seen your channel.
Great video. Subscribed and thank you! I used the popsicle stick trick yesterday with OSI Quad caulk. It's a sticky caulk, but tooled well with the stick. I'm going to try some of the alternatives you mentioned in your video that are easier to tool on my next project.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Excellent; thank you! I have long, vertical exterior siding and some, small parts/areas of the strips of caulking (that have already been painted over several times) is cracked.
I am getting everything prepped to repaint the exterior. Do I pull off and replace ALL of each, entire caulking strip if only a small part of that caulking strip has a crack in it?
We have two, entire sides of our house done with top to bottom INDIVIDUAL vertical siding boards, so if we have to remove all of the caulking and replace it on each, individual side board before painting, it will be a BIG job for us.
My husband is telling me that I just need to only cut out and replace the cracked parts of the caulking, versus pulling off and redoing the entire caulking strips along all of the siding boards, since the caulking is already adhered to the old paint (no peeling or cracking of the paint btw). He said pulling off the entire strips of caulking, would also pull off and peel a bunch of layers of paint off along with it which would cause more problems with repainting.
I have Googled, searched TH-cam, and looked everywhere I can think of and can’t find the answer to this. I would REALLY appreciate it if you would respond. 🙏🏻🌎
Would I use a box cutter to cut out the caulking strips so I don’t pull paint off with it?
Hey bud, nice work on an exterior inside corner! Can you demonstrate on an exterior outside corner? Particular, I installed white fascia on a deck and have several outside corners that came together with a small gap. I caulked the corners pretty well and they looked great. Unfortunately, due to settlement and seasonal changes, the caulk did not last and looked like the caulking you showed at the beginning of your video.
What type of caulking did you use?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter DYNAFLEX 230 "Superior flexibility & crack proof"
@@signintoconfirm5175 try NP1, it lasts a lot better
@@signintoconfirm5175never use any Dap products on the exterior. They make all kinds of claims but they are almost all modified acrylic,the lowest quality sealant you can buy. NP1 is a commercial polyurethane sealant used in industry long before it was available to consumers.
I started using Loctite Windows and Siding Polyurethane Sealant. It's tool-able but very tacky. A good caulk job starts with the application. For larger gaps, run a bead and push it into the gap. Let it fully cure then apply another bead. It wont split again unless you have a lot of movement in your substrate
Thank you for all the new knowledge. Big help for me!
Great, now the wife is going to have me caulk the trim around the house.
OK, so I am caulking down the side of a brick fireplace and a smooth board that replaced two knick knack built in wall bookcases. I had to fill a large gap where the brick meets the board with the caulking and the first application sucked into the gap so retaped and applied another layer. Terrible job when I pulled the tape it left a ridge and poor coverage. Can I actually go in one more time and recaulk over the first two applications?? Thanks for the video!
I have a question and a feeling what the answer will be, I have old 70’s Anderson basement windows that I decided to keep rather than replace. I had all my upper windows replaced and new metal siding installed that raps around these basement windows for some protection but the wood around the sash is exposed, the guy who installed the siding does also install windows and anyways he used a heavy duty caulk that matched the metal trim around not just the metal but as a way to connect it to the wood and eliminate moisture getting in. Well a year later that caulk has deep cracks on 3 out of 4 windows. I’ve sanded and scraped and prepared the old wood sash and some of the frame I have access to for a fresh coat of oil based exterior primer and paint. Do I rip out this caulking where it failed or can I apply new caulk over the gaps and tears? The other issue with him caulking all the way around is I’m sure moisture is getting into those cracks and I have exposed wood behind that caulk so I’m wondering if I should rip out it out and get to the wood behind it? Ik the caulk is filling where wood had already rotted some and left gaps to inside but I don’t know how bad. Only one window sash rotted clear through causing moisture to come all the way inside which I caught after a rainstorm. I had to literally pull out the entire bottom sash, took all day to loosen the old caulk this guy put on and I’ve rebuilt the sash to fit the glass, I’d like I need to use glazing putty oil based, etc. I’m just not sure with the other windows should I go ahead and rip out that caulk put on a year ago?
Thank you, question, there is also - MASRERSEAL - NP125 - what is the difference, and can it be used on drywall seal a seam
As a sider who uses quad everyday, I can say that if you took quad you'll automatically break it down and a year later it will turn into a white powdery substance that you can scratch off.
Every product says to setup scrap pieces to practice on, once you're used to caulking you can lay amazing beads that need to attention.
If by “ no attention” you mean doesn’t need to be tooled you are 100% wrong. Every Quality sealant manufacturer says to dry tool to improve adhesion. If you don’t tool the sealant it won’t pass a proper adhesion test.
@@genecarden780 you're wrong, go to home Depot and read a tube of quad. Then do yourself a favor; buy a colour tube, lay a bead on something, tool that and leave it outside for a year and see what happens.
@@batmansdad3195 I said “ quality” sealant. Quad is not a quality sealant. Quad data sheet says “ Only recommended for residential or low rise buildings Do not use for expansion or butt joints. Minimum joint size 1/4” max is 3/8” that is 1/8” tolerance.” ( that makes its use VERY limited) It also shrinks 23% Another red flag is you have to get permission to use it in commercial applications. Quad max. has a minimum control joint width of 3/8” and a max joint width of 5/8” ( a little better but still only 1/4” tolerance) Both say “water RESISTANT” not water proof. ( by definition this means it is not a waterproofing sealant and is a deal breaker) This information is directly from their data sheet.( it is not possible to make sealant consistently waterproof without tooling. 99% of building materials are not smooth they have irregular surfaces with voids that the sealant must be tooled to fill. Toolings primary function is to improve the bond and fill tiny voids. Aesthetics is secondary. I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. Quad will not pass a typical adhesion test because you can not tool it.Plus it is not waterproof it is water resistant. A quality professional caulking/ waterproofing contractor would never use either of these. They are inferior products. And as you stated if you tool it,it turns to crap. NP1 is an industrial grade construction sealant marketed to the caulking/waterproofing industry,that they made available to the consumer. And is waterproof. Quad is a consumer grade “sealant” that doesn’t market to the commercial caulking/waterproofing industry because they can’t meet their quality demands. And is not rated as waterproof. The fact is Quad has very low quality specs.
Any tips for keeping caulking neat where wood trim meets stucco siding?
For that I’d maybe try the Big Stretch with some soapy water and a finger.
Use the Np1 and some painters tape. Tool it until you can see the edge of the tape. Immediately remove the tape pulling it back over itself. Make sure when you apply the tape you press it in well
I have board and batten siding but someone told me that I shouldn’t caulk around the batten as it can trap moisture more. Only caulk the areas such as around the windows. Is that correct?
Love your videos
I was wondering if you had a video of a good brand of caulking for bathroom tubs that’s for applying and is easy to remove down the line when it’s molding
I noticed that the caulk gun company has a model one step down with 12:1 thrust ratio. Is that not ok for normal household use? Doe the higher ratio of the one linked mean more material is pushed out making iy for a more experienced user?
It's creepy how TH-cam saw how bad an exterior caulking job I just did and then recommended me this video. I look forward to when it can read my thoughts and recommend me a video *before* I need it.
Two words: Thank you!
👍🏻 good, helpful instruction and tips. Your clean and ordered workbench is inspirational! Have to get mine sorted like that 😊
I use my finger all the time. I have acrylic painters caulk in corners that have lasted as long or longer than tape and mud. And I definitely “tool” quad. That shit is so sticky it’s almost adhesive. Never knew the tube itself said not to. But also never had a problem
Which one will attract the least amount of dust for outside applications? My Dynaflex caulk lines are now brown…
Love your character, loved this video, now subscribed.
I had a handyman service use the Quad osi product around windows. It looks bad because they tooled it. Can I go over it with either of the 2 products you recommended or does the Quad have to be removed first? Thx! Ugh!
What do you suggest with brick to remove the old caulk? My windows have a brick sill on the outside.
Is there a reason to not use dynaflex 230 that you recommend in the other video, for the exterior? The package itself claims it's fine for the exterior application
Dynaflex is only ok on exteriors. I personally would not use it outside.
Thank you so much for this video, very informative and helpful!
Could you do one with backer rod?
I will keep it mind!
Can you caulk over caulk that was applied too thin?
Is the big stretch caulk 100% water proof?
Can it with stand temperature changes from hot summer months to cold freezing winter months?
Is it toolable with the popsicle stick?
Use the NP1 it is a far better sealant. As a professional caulker we would never use big stretch on exteriors. We use NP1 a lot.
If there is existing caulking that is stretched to thin, do you have to remove it first before redoing it, or can I just caulk over it?
Unfortunately you have to remove it. Most caulk says to make sure it's all gone, but sometimes that's impossible like on brick.
Hi. I am wondering if you have any experience with Dynaflex Ultra. It is toolable and more suited for outdoors than 230. NP1 is hard to come by here in Ottawa.
Great video. What do you think about Gorilla Waterproof Caulk and Seal silicone?
Is this for concrete to seal edges for your windows?
Is the polyurethane one for outside?
Thanks! short and sweet!
Is the NP1 a outdoor use?
Is the NP1 paintable?
So big stretch holds up? So far I've had paint crack not the caulk yet. Only a year in. I would love to make a video I just might. I enjoy that it's aimed at beginners but man there are so many awesome tricks of the trade. Cool video and yes that gun is great but save some money. They mold a bunch of brands with that gun might as well not pay more for a name. . Mines 5 years old and has done miles of caulkin
My dad met you today. Consider me subscribed!! 😊
Seems like a great guy, thanks for checking out the channel!
Just did a reseal on a ocean facing home.
The idiots obviously didn't run the bead into the space, and every window had openings...so good old me used bigstretch, cut a tiny bit of tip off, and really forced it into the gap. Tomorrow is paint day
which caulk do you recommend for stucco?
I ran into the same thing with the Quad. No tooling! Getting it perfect without tooling is just not possible for me. Especially with how sticky it is. It goops and pulls to everything.
So insightful!!
Warning guys: some of those exterior caulkings have different dry/cure times. The MasterSeal takes over a week. I was using it for something completely not what its intended for and didn't know about the 1+ week.
I better start testing out various popsicle brands to find just the right stick
Seems like a good summer job 🍻
You might be my favorite person ever.
High praise🍻
i just went looking for the NP1 master seal and can’t find it at Lowe’s, HD or Ace. Lowe’s told me it’s discontinued from their inventory. I live in the NW USA. Anybody have same issue or know where to find?
How about 24:1 gun? I just bought that before seeing this hah
with lepage it works too just need to put some water so ou can tool it
Informative and funny
Thanks for watching 🍻
What about DAP amp
Need more close up views to see what to use and do.
👍👍👍Thank you
Just found and subscribed to your channel and have been watching nonstop and sharing:)
But I need to know, to chalk or not between baseboard and LVP? Mfg. says only silicon if you have to, Yuk! But I love "230"
Thank you SO Much :):):)
Waited a long time to get to the actual demo. There is a lot to think about in choice, but I thought this video was about technique. Then, there is a small closeup of what the technique is, that didn’t really help me, a real novice. Would have liked to see a close up of the application amount and the cleanup from bottom to top.
Nice job.
I use gloved finger to pull my caulk
I thought the thumbnail was waves on an ocean at first 😂
Endless bathroom, window jobs ruined by bad jobs. For your own home, use painters tape, brick use white tape, gun in and tool until satisfied. Remove tape, wet tool with soapy spray bottle and water with plastic spoon if needed at all.
This way clean straight lines. This makes or breaks the job.
For the popsicle sticks. I would buy a pack of ice cream popsicle and save the stick and eat the ice cream
None of my outside is 90 degrees like that it's wood to brick so this doesn't help.
"That was smooth" lmfao
Good thing, I watched this video, because I used the 230 on the other exterior siding around windows.
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Hi. Great teaching and demonstration, as usual, but I cringed at part of it while showing my son your method of caulking.
At 1:54-1:56, you did something unsafe with the knife blade. To wit, you waved it downward to your front, while waving you other hand upward a few inches away and your eyes were on the tube you were going to pick up. I'm always training safety, safety, safety, so it stuck out to me and my son.
Stay safe and keep teaching.
Excellent catch, the utility knife is the most dangerous tool I own. Not hard to imagine with my cavalier attitude towards the knife….it’s bit me more than once!
Grab a paper towel and keep your tip clean. Gentlemen of leis......no, sorry, wrong video😂
You better be a great caulker before using NP1 or you'll have a nightmare of a mess to remove.
I’ve yet to ever do it, is it easy to screw up? Any advice to practice first?
Found it the hard way 😢
I just bought the Dap brand. Before watching :( 😢😢