How To Repair Rotted T111 Siding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- T111 siding has been around for years and years. It's prone to rotting if not taken care off. In this video, I'm going to show you one way to repair rotted T111 siding. In most cases, replacing the T111 is not necessary. Repairing T111 siding can be done for a fraction the cost of replacing your T111 wood siding.
Here are the tools you'll need to repair T1-11 siding.
A tape measure
Something to mark with
A circular saw
A level
2" galvanized exterior nails or 2" deck screws
A cordless drill if using deck screws
As you'll see in the video, there's not a whole lot to repairing T111 wood siding that has rotted at the lower edge.
T111 wood siding has been popular for years because it's typically cheaper. T111 at Lowes is some of their most inexpensive wood siding.
The problem with T1-11 siding is that it has deep grooves and a rough surface. If not prepped, primed and painted properly, the T1-11 siding will rot pretty quick. The edges exposed to the elements tend to rot first. Here's how I go about repairing T111 siding if the customer is on a budget and doesn't want to replace the whole panel of T1-11 siding.
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#repairt111siding #t111sidingrepair #rottedt111 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Painting T111: my brother taught me a trick which has been very handy. Use a roller to apply the paint, then a brush to get the paint to all the nicks and crannies where it needs to be.
It looks too hard to paint.
It's not
Horizontal trim like that is exactly what rotted my t1-11 siding. If it doesn't have a gap large enough for air to get in then it will hold water and rot the siding. Should have stuck with just the z flashing.
Trash video of misinformation. Delete..
he used z flashing?
The finished product turned out a lot better than I thought. Homeowner was right about the board across the joint.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I could have went either way with the trim board over the joint. But if they're happy, I'm happy!
Oh wow man this is JUST what I needed!!! Our 2 buildings are suffering from the same thing!! Thanks so much for making this video. - Excellent. 😁👍🏻👍🏻
You're welcome Gimmefuel72! Glad this video on how to repair T111 siding was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to let me know .
Gutters, Gutters...Gutters!!!! My neighbor and I put up the same exact sheds not more than a Month apart. Same everything! Mine rotted out on one side because I cheeped out on gutters on the up hill side. $100 mistake!!!!! Now I am having to do the same repairs on a 4 year old shed.! I put up the gutters this spring and now I have to do the same exact repairs as shown in your video plus repair a short section of floor! Friggen nightmare!!! Thanks for the vid! Shows exactly what I need to do.
That's what happened on the back of my house. The previous owner repaired it like in the video. I didn't like the look since it is an area where we sit outside frequently. So I replaced entire sheets of T111 that had the lower patching. The house is about 65' long - basic rectangle. I had to take off top trim under eaves, work around windows, etc.. I will say, it turned out awesome, but you have to not just butt it up to a window trim, for example, you have to go under it, maybe even take it off. For the "quality level" of my house, I decided to leave T111 - it's well maintained and painted and doesn't have these lower patches anymore. Now, for a shed or back of garage, I would definitely use this method.
I totally agree. Whether you patch T111 like I did here or replace T111 like you did, is totally up to the owner and what they want and can afford. If I had replaced the T1-11 on this shed, the cost to replace the T111 would have been astronomical! Way more than the building itself originall cost!
Good man and spot on…: always Prime/Paint all 6-sides before reinstalling for longevity and warranty coverage 👍🏻
With Gratitude, Derek
Thanks Derek! I appreciate you stopping by and leaving a comment. Best of luck out there!
Not with BIN.. bin is a brittle product for sealing stains and odor indoors. A more appropriate product would’ve been to use peel stop or Kilz klear… even a decent oil based would’ve been far better.
Super helpful, I have the exact same problem on my garage. Feel like I can tackle it given your instructions and advice. Thanks a million!!
I would coat all that old half rotten framework with used motor oil to stop the bugs and repel the moisture.
Really?
Water comes down and wicks under the T-111. Since they only use pressure treated 4 x4's on the bottom, the rim joists get wet and rot out. I put a piece of aluminum flashing between the T-111 and the rim joist to stop that from happening. Everyone raves about Amish built sheds. They use no felt paper on the roofs; they do not primer the wood before painting and they staple the end shingles to keep them from blowing off when being transported down the road. Eventually those those staples rust away and you have pin holes in your roof.
Yep, their build quality isn't any better than anyone's elses. We have plenty around here.
Great help although too much movement going on. Albeit the dizziness was worth it. Thanks!
Sorry about that. But I am glad you did find it helpful!
My shed doors are rotted at the bottom so I need to replace the doors. At $66 a sheet for T1-11 I don't think so. I refuse to pay that money. I was at Home Depot tonight and they have stacks and stacks of wood. I hope they heard me when I said I hope that wood rots :)
I hear ya notta3d, it's beyond ridiculous the price of lumber. These sheets were $31 at home depot when I did this t111 repair!
$66 a sheet?!? Oh jeez 🤦🏼♂️
@@Patrick-jx1yo Yeah, the price of lumber has just went from "stupid expensive" to "ridiculously expensive"!!!
Just bought a couple sheets...$92 each!
I had very similar structure and low lying g foundation.
I dug a trench and poured a curb (after respecting, paper, then Hardi cement planking. No matter what sidi g is INSTALLED NOTHING will abate the rot until you get the water off it and a cement curb is the only method I know THAT WORKED.
THANK YOU! To calk or not to calk..... and where and why. The 1x4 trim board at the end really surprised me (not calking it) - but I understand it and appreciate the new knowledge. (I guess that board should be painted all around, prior to mounting it) I have a little bit of rot at the very bottom of my siding in spots (not all around the house) - I was thinking of just putting 1x4 or 1x6 around the bottom. I wonder if I could cut out the bottom 5-3/4" and just use a 1x6 and no siding? Is there some sort of Z flashing that would accomodate the difference in thickness though? I would only do this if there is a flashing that would work. Otherwise, I might do the 12" siding replacement (with flashing) and no 1x4 or 1x6.
Thanks for letting me know NOT to press the bottom 12" piece squeezing the flashing against the top piece. I would have made that mistake, thinking the tighter, the better.
The horizonal wood, did you install that above the z flashing? Or on top of? It seems that is going to trap water
I agree. That horizontal flat surface on top of the trim board will hold water. I know the owner asked for that trim for cosmetic effect, but it will only create more water rot, IMO. You had the right idea to just use Z flashing without trim!
Great video, sir. My parents need that done on their shed. Your video gave me great insight on how to fix it for them economically and professionally. Thanks!
Glad my video on T111 siding helped! Thanks for letting me know.
I replace the rotted T111 siding with PVC that I custom fit to the remaining T111 to avoid future rotting problems. The only problem I have is trying to match the surface of the PVC with the T111.
I think I will have this done, but with PVC board on the bottom. A local guy will do it for $1,000, including painting, if I pay for materials and paint. Does that sound about right or at least not too far off base for a 10 X 15 shed? Thanks, and great job you did.
I am doing that right now on my old garage, with PVC board, because it has soil contact that cannot be avoided. I am using 3/4" x 7.25" wide, these are about $40 each for 8' boards so just the PVC material for mine (10 boards) is $400. This is for 40' of wall length but I have to use 2 pvc boards side by side. I am going to try to glue 2 boards together with PVC cement to make it 14.5" wide before cutting to size. PVC is pretty flexible so I will also use 2x4 blocking behind the zee flashing joint to support the PVC boards and prevent bowing in.
How come the new piece of T1-11 doesn't seem to have the grooves after you installed it?
The older T111 has deeper grooves and is more pronounced. Grooves are there on the new T111 as well. I guess it's harder to see due to camera angle and the lack of good daylight
Please tell me you sprayed those ants before covering them up?
Can I use kilz though??
I've had my best luck spraying this siding. I have brushed it, rolled it, reprimed, then painted. About every 3 years I need to repeat the process on T1-11. Not a fan of this siding. Too labor intensive.
Good tips and finished product looks good!
Thank you! Cheers!
I just performed this exact repair this video was very helpful thank you. Question how did you trim the flashing did you make a groove or something to fit over the zbar?
Just found out i need to do this on my shed. Thank you !!
Thanks this was just what I was looking for.
You're welcome Ron! Thanks for taking the time to let me know it helped!
Ok, you snapped a line, but how'd you make sure of the straight cut? It looks perfect. Just being a pro, or some other method?
I measured down from the top. Then made several marks and stretched a chalk line between them and snapped it. I would have measured up from the bottom of the T111, but it was rotted and I would have gotten different heights of measurements.
If you have a steady hand and good eye just free hand cut it. If you are extra concerned you can rest the saw with the blade on the line or do the math and clamp or screw a straight guide board for the saw to ride along the length of the wall... just make sure when you start mounting the boards the grooves line up vertically...
I'm going to be screwing a board just below the cut line, so I can use it as a guide for the saw. Once the cut is done, unscrew the guide board and pull both (guide board and old board off). Good luck.
Great video! Would trimming the panels in a V-shape to sort of interlock them help keep the water on the outside? I would like to avoid using the z-channel which requires the gap you mentioned.
Yes, or just overlapping the top to the bottom so water runs over the lower panels.
@@BlueCollarDIY - Yes, like you showed on the other side of the shed. Thanks !
@ You are welcome! Good luck with your DIY project!
I know nothing about construction so bare with me. I have this same issue on the back of my house. My question: with this type of siding, why isn’t a vapor barrier used?
In some places it is. But on sheds, it's typically not used because of the added expense. Afterall, most have the mindset that "it's just a shed".
@@BlueCollarDIY ok, so if I tear down my outer wall, do the necessary fixes then apply that vapor barrier over the studs that’ll work?
@@vinceocratic It should. But you'd have to remove all the siding in order to do it right.
@@BlueCollarDIY hey man, appreciate that. I was super confused because the outer wall of my place attaches directly to the studs.
I did this same method. Great job
Thanks Edward. It is a cost effective way to fix T111 and it looks good when finished.
Thanks for the helpful video! How many hours would it take a pro or a DIYer to do this do you think?
Looks great, My shed has the same problem. I was gonna buy a 1x4 and cover up the water damage but now I may do it your way. Any thoughts?
Originally, I had planned on repairing this T111 with 1x12's. Then I priced them! It was less expensive to buy a sheet of T1-11 and cut it into strips. If you get a lot of rain, or a lot of splash up from the ground onto the shed when it rains, I don't think 3.5 inches (the width of a 1x4) would be enough. 6 inches would be my minimum but this shed had so much rot, I had to go to 12 inches to get it all.
Blue Collar DIY , Thanks for your help.
@@snapperkc9317 You're welcome Snapper, I hope all goes well with the project!
If you had done the repair with the 1x12, would you still use the Z flashing?
Yes. Z flashing will still divert the water away from the edge of the 1x12 and the bottom of the T111 that would be above the 1x12.
Looks amazing!!! Great job 👍
Thank you Blessed Mom Life. It did turn out well. That's not always the case when you start replacing rotted T111 siding though. You never know what you're going to find when you start cutting into it! Thanks for taking the time and commenting on this video, I appreciate it!
Good vid. Learn how to keep the camera steady. Too much movement.
Sorry, filming T111 siding repairs gets me excited ;) Thanks for stopping by and commenting!
Awesome, gonna use trextrim at bottom.
That would be great! Thanks for stopping by and commenting on my video on how to repair rotted T111 siding, I appreciate it!
@@BlueCollarDIY u covered everything in this vid too. Literally. The z flashing will be a bih for me since theres a 1 inch gap between t111 n the stud.
@@skorpyo331 You could be spacer/shims in between the siding and studs to help hold the z flashing in place. Or you could slip the new lower pieces up under the old T111 siding so the old overlaps the new. This way water will run off and you wouldn't need to use Z flashing.
@@BlueCollarDIY excellent idea, the spacer is what I had in mind. And i drive a prius too, no truck. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@BlueCollarDIY problems is though is there about a 1 inch gap between t1 11 and studs. What in the hell did they do when they built this home. Lmao. Also every other 4 ft there s 4ft wide plywood sheet behind it. Explains everything. Smh
The only thing is you're going to see that ugly line going across only other option to change full boards but whatever the customer wants to pay for
how did you cut off the rotted portion?
Skil saw
@@ShayJ777 thank u
Looks Great
Good job!
“I don’t care, not my shed.” You should at least be happy with doing a good job, like it was your own shed.
Looks gud
Thanks Viktor. I generally do not like painting T111 or repair it. But sometimes it pays the bills!
@@BlueCollarDIY yep it does you should see the stuff I had to do that's enough to spend your head off
And I do not think z flashing looks as good as a single sheet.
putt caulk on it
Z flashing is being installed wrong and you will have problems with the T111 again because it will absorb water over time. Z flashing needs a 3/8 inch space above the ledge of z flashing and the T111 for the water to escape.
If you look closely, you'll see the gap. I think I even mentioned the gap and the reason for it in the video.
You do not have to put the Tijuana leaven flat in order to prom it you can use a three-quarter inch roller nap or thicker and it will get in every crack and crevice. I do not know what the heck this guy is talking about
That is what I used. It soaks up a lot of paint but it gets it into all the crevices!
have another smoke bro