Apologies for the delayed response. Super glad to hear that you found the video helpful. The one thing I wish is that ALL brakes had a bleeding edge type of solution. SO much easier. Maybe one day! 😉
This is really good. Thank you. I have never done this before. In fact, after 3 years I needed a new internal cable, I took it to the bike shop and said, by the way - do the brakes. I have now watched Doddy's, which was great, and now I have watched yours, which was great. I will now order the kit for next time - or maybe just because my new front brake set needs to be firmed up and I now have the confidence to mess with it. Thank you again. P.S. I think that I will actually have your video next to me on my phone and go step by step.
Thank you for such a nice compliment. I'm more the confident that you can successfully do this service. If I could I'd join you to cheer you on! If ANYTHING pops up, let me know and I'll do my best to answer you question as soon as I can. Now go show those brakes whos boss! 💪👍
@@zoubtube I am waiting for my full SRAM kit that is arriving next week. What I don't know is where is the "drain screw/plug in the caliper of a Level TL.
Excellent video. Clear and concise. I appreciate the effort you put into the lighting, audio, etc. Nice job. I also agree with pushing the old fluid out of the caliper and disposing of it. So many videos they just mix the old and new and move it back and forth. Another trick I have seen used to clean the caliper pistons instead of using the brushes, is to dip a cotton shoe lace or string into some isopropyl alcohol and wrap it around half the piston and clean with back and forth motion. Then do the other side. Use it in conjunction with the 4mm allen key trick to extend the pistons. Supposedly gets the really stuck on junk off the piston. I plan to try this next bleed. Thanks again for the tutorial.
Thank you very much for such a thoughtful Comment " Another trick I have seen used to clean the caliper pistons instead of using the brushes, is to dip a cotton shoe lace or string into some isopropyl alcohol and wrap it around half the piston and clean with back and forth motion. Then do the other side" This is an excellent tip and I am absolutely going to try this on my next bleed. The cores outer side of a shoelace should really help with removing built up mineral deposits. Thank for this myman. 👍
really really like your videos. Discovered you with the Reverb 600h service and now I check your channel every time I have to do something to my bike. Thank you for your explanations and for make it easy for beginners.
First, I'd like to say thank you for taking the time to watch the videos. I'm also very glad to hear that you find them informative. Making instructional videos is new to me, and I still have much to learn. My goal is to make them as easy as possible to understand and follow, in order for those who have felt somewhat intimidated by some of these jobs to gain the confidence to perform them. SO, if there is ANYTHING that comes to mind that might help improve them, please let me know. I'm not one to rest on my laurels. There's always something new to learn and different perspectives to view things from. 👍
Excellent guide (ba dum tish) thanks. Such a simple point about removing the air at the connection point first that I never considered. Really valuable stuff. Creating too severe a vacuum can cause air to get around the syringe connections and seals and aerate your fluid, so you are completely correct in taking it slow and steady on the negative pressure stage. The seals in the bleed system are better at keeping big viscous oil molecules in than small air molecules out. Big like for this - bookmarking.
Thank you very much for the gracious comment. Very glad to hear that the video will come in helpful. Let me know if there are any questions. have a great day 👍
Hi there. Thank you very much for this guide. I did everything like you explained despite the cleaning. My brakes are new. Haven’t done this in ages. I’m coming from 20 year old Hayes and Hope M4😄 It was a charm going through this. SRAM is the best. And of course the breakers are working as s they should. Have g‘day
Super job! 🦾👏👏 and thank you SO much for leaving a comment to let me know this worked for you. It always makes me happy to hear others have a good experience. Now its time to reaps your rewards and pound those brakes until the next service 👍
If you find the pistons don’t come out evenly place a 4mm allen key in the calipre and this will allow you to pump the pistons out without risk of popping them fully out.
@@zoubtubebe careful with the SRAM pistons as they are ceramic and the metal of a 4mm is too slim and possibly would chip the piston. That will allow a lot more fluid past them under braking.
Love all your videos. I was thinking that the bleed block is good for the bleed but when pressurizing the system I was going to 3d print a bleed block that’s thinner to ensure a tight lever.
I am glad to hear the videos have been useful for you. You can definitely print your own bleed blocks, but a word of caution: don't make them too thin. I wouldn't exceed 1mm thinner. You will be placing the pads closer to the rotors, which will make the pads more susceptible to rotor rub. The slightest warp, and you will hear the tick on the pads.
Not sure why people hate bleeding SRAM. Looks like a much better process than Shimano with the cup spilling oil over the floor, or the syringe popping off the bleed nipple. Suppose that’s why Shimano introduced their Pro Bleed Kit. I run XT 8100 but have been thinking about swapping for Code RSCs
Prior to the bleeding edge system, SRAM brakes were a bit of a mess to bleed. The Bleed edge tool changed this big time imo. I'm currently editing a video on a Shimano bleed that should be uploaded on Monday. I go over why I prefer the sram bleeding method over the Shimano, for a Shimano brake set, as well as why I think gravity bleeds don't really makes sense after having tried them out. Then it's back to shocks and forks (which I'm behind on at the moment) I have owned (and tried) MANY Shimano and SRAM brakes over the years. Since the release of the guide breaks, I find myself liking the wider/controlled feel (call it modulation) of modern SRAM brakes for more aggressive trails (think lots of obstacles). For typical XC trails, the quicker feel of Shimano brakes work fine for me, but then again, I don't break anywhere near as much on those trails, basically quick bursts. As for 8100 and RSC. Both are Great brakes. The bikes I rented for a week at my last Moab trip had these brakes. Personally, for that environment, the RSC felt great. I felt I had more control of the wheels going through those trails. Again, this is me, others might not feel the same way. It's a very personal decision and there is NO right answer no matter what anyone tells you I'm a big believer in buying components that work better for you in the trials you mostly ride. If budget allows, I would consider finding a used set of RSC, and trying them out. Don't base a decision after 1 or 2 rides, ride them a couple of dozen on trials you are very comfortable with, then make a decision. Both have a great resale value, so you can't really go wrong 👍
Because shimano just work, and as I found if you lose or break which is dead easy the tiny o ring on the bleeding edge tool it's absolutely useless and of course the o ring isn't one you can get easily. Also the oil is corrosive unlike mineral oil so not skin friendly. Also sram brakes are known to have sticky piston issues. Shimano are just fit and forget.
@@davidcauson7008 Since making this comment I swapped out to Code Silver Stealth. They are better than Shimano in every way. Lever feel is much better, maybe it’s the bearing in the pivot, but they feel more solid. Also lever feel is consistent between front and rear. Shimano rear always feels softer than the front. This isn’t a bleed issue as after a re-bleed after a few months there is no air. They are no way fit and forget, they constantly need the pads advancing to keep the bite point nice, the pistons don’t advance properly, and the lever pulls further as the pads wear. You can’t compensate for this with freestroke, as the only way they feel good are with the screw all the way in, so you have no more adjustment. Maybe the fit and forget mentality doesn’t help with SRAMs sticky piston issue. I’d rather this than Shimanos pistons/seals that weep fluid. Not sure I agree with the Dot vs Mineral thing either. Dot can be cleaned up with water. Oil leaves greasy residue over everything. It seems only the cycling community cries about Dot fluid. I don’t see automotive mechanics moaning about how it eats the flesh off your hands. I agree with the syringe o-ring, twice it came off for me. However as with anything SRAM they sell everything as spares. Not sure why you couldn’t find them they sell a bag of all the required o rings 11.5315.053.040. Shimano has plenty of their own issues, wandering bite point, weeping pistons, self contamination, no spares.
I noticed you didn’t tighten the bleeding port after you removed the bleeding edge tool. Does it mean the bleeding edge tool locks it when you removed it? Some of the other videos will tighten it back.
Actually, if you notice, at 24:01, I turned the bleeding edge tool clockwise by about a 1/4 turn and mention that I'm "closing the bleed port at the bottom" before removing it. but I agree that I should have been more descriptive with this. always something I tell ya! The bleeding edge tool needs to be turned clockwise until it can't be turned anymore before removing the tool. hopefully this helps
to get more pressure in the system after you bleed the system. i first remove syringe from the brakelever and close it with the screw. then on the caliper side i build pressure up with the syringe and close the system with the bleeding edge, then with the allen key. this is the opposite way like sram recommended and the feeling of the brakes are so much better this way....day and night difference.
My only comment is that you’re just wasting dot fluid on the caliper syringe for your very first push through where you’re trying to get rid of the old oil. There’s absolutely no reason to put any dot fluid in that lower syringe because you’re just gonna throw it away without ever passing it through the system. Leave that lower syringe empty and it’ll fill up with old fluid with no waste.
Agreed. Others have mentioned it as well. Its just a habit with me that I've done for as long as I remember for both dot and mineral brakes. Thanks for the comment
If I had to choose between wealth and being able to perfectly speak every language, I'd choose the latter. Unfortunately, I only speak 3 languages, and what sucks, I'm slowly forgetting two of them. Not enough brains! 😉
@@zoubtube no problems at all😉 it s very good for me, i train ear and translate 🤣👍 You have very good technics ! Impressive What do you think about sram brakes? I have a project in mind (a scott spark 27.5/26")
If shimano had a better connection like the bleeding edge on the caliper, it would have the superior system imo. So much easier to only have to work with one syringe especially when doing the rear brake.
I've been calling my neighbor Greg, "Craig" for over 20 years now, because I just can't pronounce Greg. I'll try to say Hygro moving forward, but I won't bet my life on it not sounding like hydro. At least not without a ton of retakes 😁
Great information. As a fireman and EMT for 3 decades, I would advise viewers to never put poison in a container that is normally drank out of (water bottle) as a child might drink it.
Seriously myman, this is OUTSTANDING advice, and I not only would I like to thank you for sharing it, but I want to offer you, as well as everyone else, my sincerest apologies for overlooking something so important as this. WOW! best feedback I've received on this channel to date! Thank you SO much for your sharing insight! 👍🙏
Another quality video, kudos! I just bled my SRAM road brakes and replaced the pads after a year of riding but it was extremely difficult to reset the pistons, even after multiple cycles of exercising and cleaning and lubing the pistons. I don't have the strongest hands in the world but I honestly don't think it should take SO much force just to get it the pistons in a bit. I can't even fit the bleed block in properly. I even tried opening the fluid line to relieve any excess pressure while trying to reset the pistons. Any tips or thoughts on that? Cheers!
Apologies for the delayed response. Remove the brake pads, then press on the lever until the pistons protrude from the caliper, about 3mm. Clean the piston well. Look to see if there is any calcified material on them. If there is, clean them with a bit of CLR using a q-tip. Then clean them with alcohol. Then add a bit of DOT fluid to them and push them back in, push out, push in, etc., until they feel smooth. But remember, there will always be a decent amount of force needed to push them back in, as the seal around the piston is stiff, with a very tight tolerance. Hope this helps
@@zoubtube thanks very much for this info. I did follow all these steps and it helped to push the pistons back in a little more easily after multiple exercising and cleanings with q-tips and dot fluid. However, while the pistons went back into the caliper more easily, I could not reset them fully (flush) for the life of me no matter how hard I pushed (while taking care not to damage the pistons). As a result, the new brake pads (same make and model as stock) were rubbing and dragging on the rotor. There is about 1.0-1.5mm that the pistons stick out on either side, resulting in the reduced rotor clearance. Thanks
Good pointer on clearing out any dirt before sucking upward. But the fear of brake fluid absorbing water (hygroscopic property) is overstated mostly by the manufacturers who benefit from people constantly discarding perfectly good DOT fluid. Most people throw it in the trash (please DONT. Stop doing that.) If water absorbing property was that rapid we would need to change the brake fluid in cars all the time and we don't. And should not. Sure it absorbs water but it is negligible. I have DOT fluid, if stored properly lasts for years and i've never had a failure. You are more likely to screw up a brake system (cars or bikes) by bleeding too often. It is a closed system although cars are not airtight. And the bottle has a cap on it and so is only absorbing a tiny fraction. Unless you live in Houston TX.......lol... Sure technically the minute you open the seal it is capable of absorbing water but so is the brake system in your car sitting there day in day out it is not fully air tight. BTW DOT 5.1 is not mandatory. DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are compatible just have different boiling points. DOT 4 is approved by per SRAM in their documentation. Much less expensive and bikes are not going to need the higher boiling point protection of DOT 5.1. but SRAM will sell you that tiny little bottle if you really must have 5.1. But otherwise excellent video.
Thanks for such detailed tips. I SO agree with you on the proper disposal of fluids. I try to mention it in the videos that involve them. I'm fortunate enough that I have a bike shop and a bunch of mechanic shops nearby where I can drop them off. But the reality is for many people, proper disposal options aren't accessible, which sucks. As for DOT fluid, many times I've questioned what the true data is for exposure life. I've never come across anything definitive. I know the brake cable material is very similar to that used in closed-loop liquid cooling systems, and air does penetrate the material at a molecular level. How much would this affect dot fluid in such a small system within a year? I honestly don't know, and I wouldn't expect it to be significant. But I figure for $8 for a bottle a year, why not keep it fresh. I was under the impression that SRAM dropped DOT fluid lower than 5.1 back in 2018/19. I didn't realize they still supported 4.0. Learn a new thing every day! Thanks 👍
Great video! actually appreciate not editing out the mistakes. i'm sure i will actually do all most of them! Sorry if i missed it, but where did you get the syringe holder that attaches to the fork?
Thanks you sir. I actually do leave the mistakes in on purpose. The goal is to show the actual experience, the good and the bad. the syringe holders can be found at the following link. www.parktool.com/en-us/category/parts?query=BKD-1.2 its part #6 - 2577 - Strap. $6.55 and worth EVERY penny. buy two if you can. why didn't someone make these sooner! 😉
Hello zoubtube I like so much and apreciate your videos!! There is a difference between sram brake dot 5.1 to dot 5.1 moto brakes fluid? Can i use moto brakes fluid (dot 5.1)?
Thank you very much for the comment. Technically not all DOT 5.1 fluids are the same, but at a minimum, DOT 5.1 is s base standard that companies need to meet when making it, and from there they can enhance it. I would say yes, you can use Dot 5.1 fluid. BUT, If the fluid has been sitting in an unsealed bottle for a long time, then I wouldn't use it. Dot 5.1 fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture from the air. If it's been sitting in an unsealed bottle for a while, then there is a good chance it has moisture in it, which can cause issues. Also, never mix older dot fluid with newer versions.
Question...if you pressurize the system, then remove the syringe...how is the system still pressurized? Do you not lose all pressure by virtue of removing the syringe from the lever?
Good Question. We don't want to keep the added pressure in the system after the bleed. The goal is to ensure the entire system, including the pistons, is fully balanced prior to closing it up when the bleed is done. So we want unneeded pressure to escape. I hope this helps. Thanks
Just to challenge you on this. I always take top syringe off first, the pressure bleed from the bottom and lock it off from the bleed port . I guarantee you will get a much tighter pressure on your lever. You will find it feels more like a shimano lever if you pressure bleed from the bottom with the sram modulation 😊
Hello, I would like to ask for an opinion regarding SRAM brake bleeding (RSC model) This is to set the point of contact during bleeding. So far, I have installed Shimano XT brakes where the contact point was released during bleeding so that more oil could get into the brake reservoir. I even bled the brakes even with overfilling the system with oil by not using a bleeder block but only discs without spacers and discs. The point is that SRAM and all the tutorials on TH-cam say that the contact point must be screwed in the opposite direction as shown by the arrow, which means that the brakes are engaged earlier. Subsequently, after bleeding, it is no longer possible to shorten the stroke of the brake lever. This point seems illogical to me, because on Shimano the contact point works exactly the opposite. What is your opinion on that? I can bleed the brakes with the contact point in the direction of the arrow so that I can then shorten this point even more. Or can I somehow damage the brake this way? Will it affect the brake lever movement at all if I do the opposite of what SRAM recommends? Can I do it the way I have done so far on Shimano xt brakes? Thanks for your time and reply.
"What is your opinion on that? I can bleed the brakes with the contact point in the direction of the arrow so that I can then shorten this point even more. Or can I somehow damage the brake this way? Will it affect the brake lever movement at all if I do the opposite of what SRAM recommends? Can I do it the way I have done so far on Shimano xt brakes? : Yes. You can bleed with the contact point adjuster in both directions. You will not damage anything by doing so. If you feel like the brakes are too soft, bleed them with the dial all the way to the arrow head. BUT,,, there is a chance that you will experience brake rub, which might prove difficult to remove. I tested this on a new set of pads and disks and experienced it. It wasn't totally maddening, just somewhat annoying. With pads and rotors that have some wear to them, I don't think it will be as much of an issue. Another option is to bleed with a slightly thinner block, especially if you have pads and rotors with some wear. This will also make the brakes feel more responsive as well. The video below explains exactly how SRAM contact point adjustment works. It should help with some of the details as to what goes on in the system. If you still have questions, let me know. th-cam.com/video/kbWWGTukq2s/w-d-xo.html
@@zoubtube I have to try it next time, fill it on the contrary with the contact point all the way out. Or I'll use a narrower block. Basically, my problem was (new bike, new brakes) that when I was going down the track after about a minute, the rear brake lever started falling towards the grip, the performance was significantly worse and the lever felt softer. I bled the brakes according to your instructions (many thanks for the video!) and I'm curious about the result. I haven't had time to go for a ride yet, but we'll see during the weekend if it worked. There was significantly more air in the rear brake than in the front, so I assume that this was the problem, why the brake started to lose power on the downhill, even though the brake was fine in the parking lot and running in.
Hi, i liked your video, it's pretty straight forward. One thing i wanted to ask, i get trough the procedure more or less easily but i get into trouble pressurising the system. While the syringe is in it feels ok, but when i take it out the pressure is lost trough oil spill and the lever gets spongy? Any advice? Thanx
thanks for the comment. Which model guide brake do you have? before closing the system to finish the bleed, you pressurize it by pressing the syringe in, but then you let go of the syringe so it can naturally equalize with the surrounding pressure. then remove the syringe, some oil will come out so close the system quick. if the brake feels spongy when riding ti could be multiple things, EX: A small air bubble in the system, not the right bleed block (if the bleed block is to wide you won't get enough oil in the system), worn pads, worn rotor (or both) etc. also, does the brake have contact point adjustment? if yes, make sure it ALL the way open (opposite the arrow head) I plan on making a video where I open up a guide to people can see how contact point adjustment works let me know thanks
@ZoubTube Hi, thanks for your reply. Brakes are Sram guide so no contact adjust only reach adjustment, bleed block should be ok since i bled the rear brake ok :) rotors and pads are also in order.maybe let the syringe equalise more before removing and try to properly check again for air.
@@nhd_sbc considering the above, i'm thinking there might be a bubble stuck in the system. what you can try is connect the upper syringe only with a bit of oil, and see if you can vacuum out a bubble. make sure to tap on the cable and lever while doing it. Don't apply to much vacuum pressure, just light bursts
@@zoubtube thanx, i thought it could be that problem, since there seem to be no other issues and same procedure on the rear brake came out flawlessly. will have to recheck it again.
I have redone it and it really good while the bleed block is in there, but when i return the wheel in place lever gets soft. Brake pads are at 70%and the rotor at more than 80% of new size. Bleed block i use is 10mm. As i mentione earlier brakes are Code R. Could i be using too thick of a bleed block?
Shimano brakes. Vs Sram brakes. Shimano is the best. And bleeding sram brake. Is not hard. Shimano is easy too. Thanks for this Video is a great value information. Guys it doesn't matter if you have sram or shimano a good work bleeding make the difference in your brakes. Bad bleeding guide you a poor brake system. Follow this video 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you very much. Totally agree. Bleeding brakes well is FAR more important than the brand of brakes! It's worth a extra few minutes in order to be sure they are fully bled! 👍
Good morning. Since we've been talking I still have, after I remembered, two little things I'd like you to tell me if possible. To disassemble the head you need two box or socket wrenches, a hex or allen wrench, and another with 3 pins. Could you tell me the measurement of the hexagon in mm and since they are both specific tools, where could I find them since I have already tried and could not find them. Thank you very much.
I'm assuming you mean the caliper pistons. I would start by aggressively cleaning the sides. Press the lever until they pop out about 3mm. If one side pops out more than the other, I would push them both in with a plastic tire lever, then hold the piston that pops out more with the tire lever and press the brake handle lever to help the other piston come out more. Once you have both pistons at around 3mm, I'd use alcohol and a brush to clean the sides as best you can. If the sides feel a bit rough after you clean them, I would use a bit of CLR with a q-tip on the sides, then again use alcohol and a brush. Once clean, I would apply a bit of mineral oil on the sides using a q-tip, then push them back in with a tire lever. Then clean up any remaining mineral oil using alcohol. From there, Press the brake lever to see if they come out more evenly. If they don't, then push them in using the lever, then press them out, and repeat until you find they are even. Just remember, they will never be perfectly even, but relatively close Hope this helps
Apologies for the delayed response. It's very easy to push the pistons on these brakes too far in by mistake during the bleed process. It's happened to me multiple times. I grab a thin pick of a 1.5mm Allen to push it back. Sometimes it takes a bit of extra force, but it shouldn't take all that much to move it.
Apologies for the delayed response. If the lever doesn't have a contact point adjuster mechanism on it than its not supported. only sram brakes that have the contact point adjuster on the lever have this option. hope this helps
I believe I just answered the same question on one of my shimano brake bleed videos. I always add a bit of oil to the syringe for two reasons. To mitigate any chances of introducing air into the system. To help determine that I removed the air bubble when connecting the tube to the bleed port before starting the bleed. Is it overkill? Yes. Does it help to ensure a better bleed? Yes, especially for people just starting. I believe syringe/s and/or reservoirs for any brake job should always have some fluid in them and never be completely empty through the whole process. But that's just me. Hopefully this help explain the reasoning
Die meisten Anweisungen funktionieren, aber es gibt einige Details, die nicht auf die Bremsen des Basismodells zutreffen. Ich habe vor, auch Videos zu den Bremsen des Basismodells zu machen
![The Wall Song ร้องข้ามกำแพง | EP.213 | กรีน อัษฎาพร | 3 ต.ค. 67 [1/5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3KrlLbCsadI/mqdefault.jpg)
Video name should be Sram Guide Ultimate Ultimate bleeding ... :D Very good tutorial
Apologies for the delayed response. Super glad to hear that you found the video helpful. The one thing I wish is that ALL brakes had a bleeding edge type of solution. SO much easier. Maybe one day! 😉
got through my first brake bleed watching this video - thank you! double syringes is definitely the way to go!
Super glad to hear this worked out for you. let me know if there are any questions
This is really good. Thank you.
I have never done this before. In fact, after 3 years I needed a new internal cable, I took it to the bike shop and said, by the way - do the brakes.
I have now watched Doddy's, which was great, and now I have watched yours, which was great. I will now order the kit for next time - or maybe just because my new front brake set needs to be firmed up and I now have the confidence to mess with it.
Thank you again.
P.S. I think that I will actually have your video next to me on my phone and go step by step.
Thank you for such a nice compliment. I'm more the confident that you can successfully do this service. If I could I'd join you to cheer you on! If ANYTHING pops up, let me know and I'll do my best to answer you question as soon as I can. Now go show those brakes whos boss! 💪👍
@@zoubtube
I am waiting for my full SRAM kit that is arriving next week. What I don't know is where is the "drain screw/plug in the caliper of a Level TL.
Awesome tutorial Sr. TY so much!
My apologies for the delayed response. Thank you very much the kind words. I'm glad to hear that the video was helpful. More videos to come
@@zoubtube No problem mate, nowadays they don't even reply to comments in many places. Thanks for your dedication and time, have a great week.
Excellent video. Clear and concise. I appreciate the effort you put into the lighting, audio, etc. Nice job. I also agree with pushing the old fluid out of the caliper and disposing of it. So many videos they just mix the old and new and move it back and forth. Another trick I have seen used to clean the caliper pistons instead of using the brushes, is to dip a cotton shoe lace or string into some isopropyl alcohol and wrap it around half the piston and clean with back and forth motion. Then do the other side. Use it in conjunction with the 4mm allen key trick to extend the pistons. Supposedly gets the really stuck on junk off the piston. I plan to try this next bleed. Thanks again for the tutorial.
Thank you very much for such a thoughtful Comment
" Another trick I have seen used to clean the caliper pistons instead of using the brushes, is to dip a cotton shoe lace or string into some isopropyl alcohol and wrap it around half the piston and clean with back and forth motion. Then do the other side"
This is an excellent tip and I am absolutely going to try this on my next bleed. The cores outer side of a shoelace should really help with removing built up mineral deposits.
Thank for this myman. 👍
really really like your videos. Discovered you with the Reverb 600h service and now I check your channel every time I have to do something to my bike. Thank you for your explanations and for make it easy for beginners.
First, I'd like to say thank you for taking the time to watch the videos. I'm also very glad to hear that you find them informative. Making instructional videos is new to me, and I still have much to learn. My goal is to make them as easy as possible to understand and follow, in order for those who have felt somewhat intimidated by some of these jobs to gain the confidence to perform them. SO, if there is ANYTHING that comes to mind that might help improve them, please let me know. I'm not one to rest on my laurels. There's always something new to learn and different perspectives to view things from. 👍
Excellent guide (ba dum tish) thanks.
Such a simple point about removing the air at the connection point first that I never considered. Really valuable stuff.
Creating too severe a vacuum can cause air to get around the syringe connections and seals and aerate your fluid, so you are completely correct in taking it slow and steady on the negative pressure stage. The seals in the bleed system are better at keeping big viscous oil molecules in than small air molecules out.
Big like for this - bookmarking.
Thank you very much for the gracious comment. Very glad to hear that the video will come in helpful. Let me know if there are any questions. have a great day 👍
Hi there. Thank you very much for this guide. I did everything like you explained despite the cleaning. My brakes are new. Haven’t done this in ages. I’m coming from 20 year old Hayes and Hope M4😄 It was a charm going through this. SRAM is the best. And of course the breakers are working as s they should. Have g‘day
Super job! 🦾👏👏 and thank you SO much for leaving a comment to let me know this worked for you. It always makes me happy to hear others have a good experience. Now its time to reaps your rewards and pound those brakes until the next service 👍
If you find the pistons don’t come out evenly place a 4mm allen key in the calipre and this will allow you to pump the pistons out without risk of popping them fully out.
Now that is an OUTSTANDING tip. Never thought of it. I've used other stuff but a 4mm allen is ALWAYS handy. Thank you so much for sharing 👍
@@zoubtubebe careful with the SRAM pistons as they are ceramic and the metal of a 4mm is too slim and possibly would chip the piston. That will allow a lot more fluid past them under braking.
Love all your videos.
I was thinking that the bleed block is good for the bleed but when pressurizing the system I was going to 3d print a bleed block that’s thinner to ensure a tight lever.
I am glad to hear the videos have been useful for you.
You can definitely print your own bleed blocks, but a word of caution: don't make them too thin. I wouldn't exceed 1mm thinner. You will be placing the pads closer to the rotors, which will make the pads more susceptible to rotor rub. The slightest warp, and you will hear the tick on the pads.
Very informative. I will attempt this on my bike soon
Glad to hear you found the guide helpful. let me know if you have any questions
Great instructions, well made video.
Glad to see the video was informative for you, and thanks for the comment. If there are any questions let me know
Not sure why people hate bleeding SRAM. Looks like a much better process than Shimano with the cup spilling oil over the floor, or the syringe popping off the bleed nipple. Suppose that’s why Shimano introduced their Pro Bleed Kit.
I run XT 8100 but have been thinking about swapping for Code RSCs
Prior to the bleeding edge system, SRAM brakes were a bit of a mess to bleed. The Bleed edge tool changed this big time imo. I'm currently editing a video on a Shimano bleed that should be uploaded on Monday. I go over why I prefer the sram bleeding method over the Shimano, for a Shimano brake set, as well as why I think gravity bleeds don't really makes sense after having tried them out. Then it's back to shocks and forks (which I'm behind on at the moment)
I have owned (and tried) MANY Shimano and SRAM brakes over the years. Since the release of the guide breaks, I find myself liking the wider/controlled feel (call it modulation) of modern SRAM brakes for more aggressive trails (think lots of obstacles). For typical XC trails, the quicker feel of Shimano brakes work fine for me, but then again, I don't break anywhere near as much on those trails, basically quick bursts.
As for 8100 and RSC. Both are Great brakes. The bikes I rented for a week at my last Moab trip had these brakes. Personally, for that environment, the RSC felt great. I felt I had more control of the wheels going through those trails. Again, this is me, others might not feel the same way. It's a very personal decision and there is NO right answer no matter what anyone tells you
I'm a big believer in buying components that work better for you in the trials you mostly ride. If budget allows, I would consider finding a used set of RSC, and trying them out. Don't base a decision after 1 or 2 rides, ride them a couple of dozen on trials you are very comfortable with, then make a decision. Both have a great resale value, so you can't really go wrong 👍
Because shimano just work, and as I found if you lose or break which is dead easy the tiny o ring on the bleeding edge tool it's absolutely useless and of course the o ring isn't one you can get easily. Also the oil is corrosive unlike mineral oil so not skin friendly. Also sram brakes are known to have sticky piston issues. Shimano are just fit and forget.
@@davidcauson7008 Since making this comment I swapped out to Code Silver Stealth. They are better than Shimano in every way. Lever feel is much better, maybe it’s the bearing in the pivot, but they feel more solid. Also lever feel is consistent between front and rear. Shimano rear always feels softer than the front. This isn’t a bleed issue as after a re-bleed after a few months there is no air. They are no way fit and forget, they constantly need the pads advancing to keep the bite point nice, the pistons don’t advance properly, and the lever pulls further as the pads wear. You can’t compensate for this with freestroke, as the only way they feel good are with the screw all the way in, so you have no more adjustment. Maybe the fit and forget mentality doesn’t help with SRAMs sticky piston issue. I’d rather this than Shimanos pistons/seals that weep fluid.
Not sure I agree with the Dot vs Mineral thing either. Dot can be cleaned up with water. Oil leaves greasy residue over everything. It seems only the cycling community cries about Dot fluid. I don’t see automotive mechanics moaning about how it eats the flesh off your hands.
I agree with the syringe o-ring, twice it came off for me. However as with anything SRAM they sell everything as spares. Not sure why you couldn’t find them they sell a bag of all the required o rings 11.5315.053.040.
Shimano has plenty of their own issues, wandering bite point, weeping pistons, self contamination, no spares.
I noticed you didn’t tighten the bleeding port after you removed the bleeding edge tool. Does it mean the bleeding edge tool locks it when you removed it? Some of the other videos will tighten it back.
Actually, if you notice, at 24:01, I turned the bleeding edge tool clockwise by about a 1/4 turn and mention that I'm "closing the bleed port at the bottom" before removing it. but I agree that I should have been more descriptive with this. always something I tell ya! The bleeding edge tool needs to be turned clockwise until it can't be turned anymore before removing the tool. hopefully this helps
to get more pressure in the system after you bleed the system. i first remove syringe from the brakelever and close it with the screw. then on the caliper side i build pressure up with the syringe and close the system with the bleeding edge, then with the allen key. this is the opposite way like sram recommended and the feeling of the brakes are so much better this way....day and night difference.
I just responded to the comment in the other video. I'm really curious to find out if this method has created any issues with brake rub. thanks 👍
@@zoubtube i respond there
My only comment is that you’re just wasting dot fluid on the caliper syringe for your very first push through where you’re trying to get rid of the old oil. There’s absolutely no reason to put any dot fluid in that lower syringe because you’re just gonna throw it away without ever passing it through the system. Leave that lower syringe empty and it’ll fill up with old fluid with no waste.
Agreed. Others have mentioned it as well. Its just a habit with me that I've done for as long as I remember for both dot and mineral brakes. Thanks for the comment
For what it’s worth, it’s also standard operating procedure in the official SRAM bleed procedure to have the caliper syringe 25% full.
hello, it s the second video from i watch. EX CEL LENT !! but hard to follow instructions in english... But many thanks !!👌😉
If I had to choose between wealth and being able to perfectly speak every language, I'd choose the latter. Unfortunately, I only speak 3 languages, and what sucks, I'm slowly forgetting two of them. Not enough brains! 😉
@@zoubtube no problems at all😉 it s very good for me, i train ear and translate 🤣👍
You have very good technics ! Impressive
What do you think about sram brakes? I have a project in mind (a scott spark 27.5/26")
If shimano had a better connection like the bleeding edge on the caliper, it would have the superior system imo. So much easier to only have to work with one syringe especially when doing the rear brake.
YUP! A Bleeding edge equivalent would be a game changer for them. I just don't get why this company is so stubborn when it comes to innovation.
You still can’t pressure bleed shimano. As the diaphragm will burst
Hydroscopic- a means of viewing images underwater.
Hygroscopic- absorbs moisture from atmosphere.
I've been calling my neighbor Greg, "Craig" for over 20 years now, because I just can't pronounce Greg. I'll try to say Hygro moving forward, but I won't bet my life on it not sounding like hydro. At least not without a ton of retakes 😁
Great information. As a fireman and EMT for 3 decades, I would advise viewers to never put poison in a container that is normally drank out of (water bottle) as a child might drink it.
Seriously myman, this is OUTSTANDING advice, and I not only would I like to thank you for sharing it, but I want to offer you, as well as everyone else, my sincerest apologies for overlooking something so important as this. WOW! best feedback I've received on this channel to date! Thank you SO much for your sharing insight! 👍🙏
Another quality video, kudos!
I just bled my SRAM road brakes and replaced the pads after a year of riding but it was extremely difficult to reset the pistons, even after multiple cycles of exercising and cleaning and lubing the pistons. I don't have the strongest hands in the world but I honestly don't think it should take SO much force just to get it the pistons in a bit. I can't even fit the bleed block in properly. I even tried opening the fluid line to relieve any excess pressure while trying to reset the pistons. Any tips or thoughts on that? Cheers!
Apologies for the delayed response. Remove the brake pads, then press on the lever until the pistons protrude from the caliper, about 3mm. Clean the piston well. Look to see if there is any calcified material on them. If there is, clean them with a bit of CLR using a q-tip. Then clean them with alcohol. Then add a bit of DOT fluid to them and push them back in, push out, push in, etc., until they feel smooth. But remember, there will always be a decent amount of force needed to push them back in, as the seal around the piston is stiff, with a very tight tolerance. Hope this helps
@@zoubtube thanks very much for this info. I did follow all these steps and it helped to push the pistons back in a little more easily after multiple exercising and cleanings with q-tips and dot fluid. However, while the pistons went back into the caliper more easily, I could not reset them fully (flush) for the life of me no matter how hard I pushed (while taking care not to damage the pistons). As a result, the new brake pads (same make and model as stock) were rubbing and dragging on the rotor. There is about 1.0-1.5mm that the pistons stick out on either side, resulting in the reduced rotor clearance. Thanks
Good pointer on clearing out any dirt before sucking upward. But the fear of brake fluid absorbing water (hygroscopic property) is overstated mostly by the manufacturers who benefit from people constantly discarding perfectly good DOT fluid. Most people throw it in the trash (please DONT. Stop doing that.) If water absorbing property was that rapid we would need to change the brake fluid in cars all the time and we don't. And should not. Sure it absorbs water but it is negligible. I have DOT fluid, if stored properly lasts for years and i've never had a failure. You are more likely to screw up a brake system (cars or bikes) by bleeding too often. It is a closed system although cars are not airtight. And the bottle has a cap on it and so is only absorbing a tiny fraction. Unless you live in Houston TX.......lol... Sure technically the minute you open the seal it is capable of absorbing water but so is the brake system in your car sitting there day in day out it is not fully air tight.
BTW DOT 5.1 is not mandatory. DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are compatible just have different boiling points. DOT 4 is approved by per SRAM in their documentation. Much less expensive and bikes are not going to need the higher boiling point protection of DOT 5.1. but SRAM will sell you that tiny little bottle if you really must have 5.1. But otherwise excellent video.
Thanks for such detailed tips. I SO agree with you on the proper disposal of fluids. I try to mention it in the videos that involve them. I'm fortunate enough that I have a bike shop and a bunch of mechanic shops nearby where I can drop them off. But the reality is for many people, proper disposal options aren't accessible, which sucks.
As for DOT fluid, many times I've questioned what the true data is for exposure life. I've never come across anything definitive. I know the brake cable material is very similar to that used in closed-loop liquid cooling systems, and air does penetrate the material at a molecular level. How much would this affect dot fluid in such a small system within a year? I honestly don't know, and I wouldn't expect it to be significant. But I figure for $8 for a bottle a year, why not keep it fresh.
I was under the impression that SRAM dropped DOT fluid lower than 5.1 back in 2018/19. I didn't realize they still supported 4.0. Learn a new thing every day! Thanks 👍
Great video! actually appreciate not editing out the mistakes. i'm sure i will actually do all most of them! Sorry if i missed it, but where did you get the syringe holder that attaches to the fork?
Thanks you sir. I actually do leave the mistakes in on purpose. The goal is to show the actual experience, the good and the bad. the syringe holders can be found at the following link. www.parktool.com/en-us/category/parts?query=BKD-1.2
its part #6 - 2577 - Strap. $6.55 and worth EVERY penny. buy two if you can. why didn't someone make these sooner! 😉
Hello zoubtube
I like so much and apreciate your videos!!
There is a difference between sram brake dot 5.1 to dot 5.1 moto brakes fluid?
Can i use moto brakes fluid (dot 5.1)?
Thank you very much for the comment. Technically not all DOT 5.1 fluids are the same, but at a minimum, DOT 5.1 is s base standard that companies need to meet when making it, and from there they can enhance it. I would say yes, you can use Dot 5.1 fluid. BUT, If the fluid has been sitting in an unsealed bottle for a long time, then I wouldn't use it. Dot 5.1 fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture from the air. If it's been sitting in an unsealed bottle for a while, then there is a good chance it has moisture in it, which can cause issues. Also, never mix older dot fluid with newer versions.
Question...if you pressurize the system, then remove the syringe...how is the system still pressurized? Do you not lose all pressure by virtue of removing the syringe from the lever?
Good Question. We don't want to keep the added pressure in the system after the bleed. The goal is to ensure the entire system, including the pistons, is fully balanced prior to closing it up when the bleed is done. So we want unneeded pressure to escape. I hope this helps. Thanks
Just to challenge you on this. I always take top syringe off first, the pressure bleed from the bottom and lock it off from the bleed port . I guarantee you will get a much tighter pressure on your lever. You will find it feels more like a shimano lever if you pressure bleed from the bottom with the sram modulation 😊
Nice video pls where got you buy this holder for injection ? 😮😊thank you
Thanks. below is a link. It's item number 9: Syringe Holder Assembly with Strap
www.parktool.com/en-us/category/parts?query=BKM-1.2
Hello, I would like to ask for an opinion regarding SRAM brake bleeding (RSC model)
This is to set the point of contact during bleeding.
So far, I have installed Shimano XT brakes where the contact point was released during bleeding so that more oil could get into the brake reservoir. I even bled the brakes even with overfilling the system with oil by not using a bleeder block but only discs without spacers and discs.
The point is that SRAM and all the tutorials on TH-cam say that the contact point must be screwed in the opposite direction as shown by the arrow, which means that the brakes are engaged earlier. Subsequently, after bleeding, it is no longer possible to shorten the stroke of the brake lever. This point seems illogical to me, because on Shimano the contact point works exactly the opposite.
What is your opinion on that? I can bleed the brakes with the contact point in the direction of the arrow so that I can then shorten this point even more. Or can I somehow damage the brake this way? Will it affect the brake lever movement at all if I do the opposite of what SRAM recommends? Can I do it the way I have done so far on Shimano xt brakes? Thanks for your time and reply.
"What is your opinion on that? I can bleed the brakes with the contact point in the direction of the arrow so that I can then shorten this point even more. Or can I somehow damage the brake this way? Will it affect the brake lever movement at all if I do the opposite of what SRAM recommends? Can I do it the way I have done so far on Shimano xt brakes? :
Yes. You can bleed with the contact point adjuster in both directions. You will not damage anything by doing so. If you feel like the brakes are too soft, bleed them with the dial all the way to the arrow head. BUT,,, there is a chance that you will experience brake rub, which might prove difficult to remove. I tested this on a new set of pads and disks and experienced it. It wasn't totally maddening, just somewhat annoying. With pads and rotors that have some wear to them, I don't think it will be as much of an issue.
Another option is to bleed with a slightly thinner block, especially if you have pads and rotors with some wear. This will also make the brakes feel more responsive as well.
The video below explains exactly how SRAM contact point adjustment works. It should help with some of the details as to what goes on in the system. If you still have questions, let me know.
th-cam.com/video/kbWWGTukq2s/w-d-xo.html
@@zoubtube I have to try it next time, fill it on the contrary with the contact point all the way out. Or I'll use a narrower block.
Basically, my problem was (new bike, new brakes) that when I was going down the track after about a minute, the rear brake lever started falling towards the grip, the performance was significantly worse and the lever felt softer.
I bled the brakes according to your instructions (many thanks for the video!) and I'm curious about the result. I haven't had time to go for a ride yet, but we'll see during the weekend if it worked.
There was significantly more air in the rear brake than in the front, so I assume that this was the problem, why the brake started to lose power on the downhill, even though the brake was fine in the parking lot and running in.
Hi, i liked your video, it's pretty straight forward. One thing i wanted to ask, i get trough the procedure more or less easily but i get into trouble pressurising the system. While the syringe is in it feels ok, but when i take it out the pressure is lost trough oil spill and the lever gets spongy? Any advice? Thanx
thanks for the comment. Which model guide brake do you have? before closing the system to finish the bleed, you pressurize it by pressing the syringe in, but then you let go of the syringe so it can naturally equalize with the surrounding pressure. then remove the syringe, some oil will come out so close the system quick. if the brake feels spongy when riding ti could be multiple things, EX: A small air bubble in the system, not the right bleed block (if the bleed block is to wide you won't get enough oil in the system), worn pads, worn rotor (or both) etc. also, does the brake have contact point adjustment? if yes, make sure it ALL the way open (opposite the arrow head) I plan on making a video where I open up a guide to people can see how contact point adjustment works
let me know thanks
@ZoubTube Hi, thanks for your reply. Brakes are Sram guide so no contact adjust only reach adjustment, bleed block should be ok since i bled the rear brake ok :) rotors and pads are also in order.maybe let the syringe equalise more before removing and try to properly check again for air.
@@nhd_sbc considering the above, i'm thinking there might be a bubble stuck in the system. what you can try is connect the upper syringe only with a bit of oil, and see if you can vacuum out a bubble. make sure to tap on the cable and lever while doing it. Don't apply to much vacuum pressure, just light bursts
@@zoubtube thanx, i thought it could be that problem, since there seem to be no other issues and same procedure on the rear brake came out flawlessly. will have to recheck it again.
I have redone it and it really good while the bleed block is in there, but when i return the wheel in place lever gets soft. Brake pads are at 70%and the rotor at more than 80% of new size. Bleed block i use is 10mm. As i mentione earlier brakes are Code R. Could i be using too thick of a bleed block?
Shimano brakes. Vs Sram brakes. Shimano is the best. And bleeding sram brake. Is not hard. Shimano is easy too. Thanks for this Video is a great value information. Guys it doesn't matter if you have sram or shimano a good work bleeding make the difference in your brakes. Bad bleeding guide you a poor brake system. Follow this video 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you very much. Totally agree. Bleeding brakes well is FAR more important than the brand of brakes! It's worth a extra few minutes in order to be sure they are fully bled! 👍
Good morning. Since we've been talking I still have, after I remembered, two little things I'd like you to tell me if possible. To disassemble the head you need two box or socket wrenches, a hex or allen wrench, and another with 3 pins. Could you tell me the measurement of the hexagon in mm and since they are both specific tools, where could I find them since I have already tried and could not find them. Thank you very much.
I believe this question is for the DPS Shock. I will answer it in the comments in that video so it doesn't confuse people who might watch this video
How do you fix it when the pistons don't come out at the same time
I'm assuming you mean the caliper pistons. I would start by aggressively cleaning the sides. Press the lever until they pop out about 3mm. If one side pops out more than the other, I would push them both in with a plastic tire lever, then hold the piston that pops out more with the tire lever and press the brake handle lever to help the other piston come out more.
Once you have both pistons at around 3mm, I'd use alcohol and a brush to clean the sides as best you can. If the sides feel a bit rough after you clean them, I would use a bit of CLR with a q-tip on the sides, then again use alcohol and a brush. Once clean, I would apply a bit of mineral oil on the sides using a q-tip, then push them back in with a tire lever. Then clean up any remaining mineral oil using alcohol.
From there, Press the brake lever to see if they come out more evenly. If they don't, then push them in using the lever, then press them out, and repeat until you find they are even. Just remember, they will never be perfectly even, but relatively close
Hope this helps
Not mineral oil on DOT brake!!
You didnt show us lever throw after the bleed. :-(
I have another video that shows how the lever works with the CPA on a guide brake. Hopefully this helps
th-cam.com/video/kbWWGTukq2s/w-d-xo.html
I can never push back the pistons unless I open the system.
Apologies for the delayed response. It's very easy to push the pistons on these brakes too far in by mistake during the bleed process. It's happened to me multiple times. I grab a thin pick of a 1.5mm Allen to push it back. Sometimes it takes a bit of extra force, but it shouldn't take all that much to move it.
How do I adjust the contact point of sram guide levers? I don't have the external manual adjusters. Thanks.
Apologies for the delayed response. If the lever doesn't have a contact point adjuster mechanism on it than its not supported. only sram brakes that have the contact point adjuster on the lever have this option. hope this helps
O Sr. Habita na USA, ou em UK?😊
US
@ZoubTube OK thanks. I m Portuguese from Lisbon.
I still dont get it why do you have to put any oil in caliper syringe at the start is you want to replace the oil, its just a waste
I believe I just answered the same question on one of my shimano brake bleed videos. I always add a bit of oil to the syringe for two reasons. To mitigate any chances of introducing air into the system. To help determine that I removed the air bubble when connecting the tube to the bleed port before starting the bleed. Is it overkill? Yes. Does it help to ensure a better bleed? Yes, especially for people just starting. I believe syringe/s and/or reservoirs for any brake job should always have some fluid in them and never be completely empty through the whole process. But that's just me. Hopefully this help explain the reasoning
@@zoubtube thank you for explanation
Too much talk🙈
Thank Anyway
I stop at 7:13
If you only knew how much talking goes on in my head. Those voices never stop! 😁
Sehr gut aber geht es nicht auch mit dem billigeren für SRAM und Avid?
😬🥺🤔😱🤿🏀🥅🏒🛼🏏🎿⛳
Die meisten Anweisungen funktionieren, aber es gibt einige Details, die nicht auf die Bremsen des Basismodells zutreffen. Ich habe vor, auch Videos zu den Bremsen des Basismodells zu machen