I have found that this procedure results in very mushy brakes on sram code R and code RSC brakes. To get the brakes feeling good, after air is bubbled out, close up the lever bleed port with the screw, then with the caliper still open apply pressure on the caliper syringe and hold it. While holding the pressure, close the caliper bleed port, then release pressure from the syringe. Now the lever will not be mushy.
Just to add, I also put the new pads in and add 1.7mm shim to simulate the rotor width and do the pressure bleed on that. I also reset lever throw after I have pressure bleed it to the lever position I’m comfortable width. This method makes the brakes feel like XTR with better modulation .
Should mention that DOT 4 and 5 aren’t compatible at the beginning. DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are compatible, and can be used interchangeably. Good video otherwise, very helpful, thank you!
what about the bite point adjuster? I think its a good idea to open it up before starting the bleeding at all. Same as using a bleed block to make sure that the pistons doesn`t move out during the bleeding process.
Hi Anton, thanks for watching, fair point re the adjuster, Sometimes its better to have the pistons slightly out, you can force then mack in whilst holding the lever closed, this sends any air back in the syringe.
A up Dave ..don’t want to tell you how to suck eggs …but regarding geting the pistons back ….with the pads out,use feeler gauges…pop some in so there nice and snug then get another feeler and lightly tap in down the middle ..repeat till the pistons are back in the calliper …dead easy …with no damage
Hi, Thanks for your comments, Thats one of the good things about sharing, some find it easier in different ways, it's what ever works best for you. the main thing is not to damage the pistons, and the are pushed back squarely. Thanks for your comments.
Hi Barry, I wouldn't recommend anything but syringes, Every brake that I have ever worked on uses a syringe, either one and a funnel if it's shimano everything else is bled by syringe.
I have found a better way to bleed these brakes,bleed as normal,then put the brake caliper with the brake pads in over the disc rotor or if not find a spare disc rotor and hold it in place,put the brake bleed tool in the the caliper,open bleed port on caliper , squeeze the syringe and lightly pull the brake lever until you feel some resitance ,this is the bit that makes these brakes work,stop pulling the brake lever push hard on the syringe and watch the brake pads close on to the disc,make sure the brake pads looks evenly pushed out, DO NOT stop squeezing the syringe and lock off the bleed port,repeat if necessary or when they lose there bite,
Hi, thank you for your comment, this is a good tip but its difficult to do on our customers bikes unless we are installing new pads, if not then when they coime to fit a new pair or another bike shop does the pads wont fit in without releasing a little bit of fluid, its not good practise in a bike workshop. but I can understand why you have done it.
Really bad advice here, I recommend not using this guys method, no bleed block or degassing of the syringes, seiously bad way to bleed already shitty brakes. Best way to bleed Code R's is to bin them along with the pads and get better brakes
I have found that this procedure results in very mushy brakes on sram code R and code RSC brakes. To get the brakes feeling good, after air is bubbled out, close up the lever bleed port with the screw, then with the caliper still open apply pressure on the caliper syringe and hold it. While holding the pressure, close the caliper bleed port, then release pressure from the syringe. Now the lever will not be mushy.
Just to add, I also put the new pads in and add 1.7mm shim to simulate the rotor width and do the pressure bleed on that. I also reset lever throw after I have pressure bleed it to the lever position I’m comfortable width. This method makes the brakes feel like XTR with better modulation .
Just wanted to thank you for taking the time to share this video. Helped me tremendously!
Thanks for watching and your comments, You are welcome
Really clear. Pistons in place and brakes working great. Thank you for this video
Your'e welcome
Super well thought out, straight to the point and informative cheers
Thank you
should probably do a playlist where you do hope, magura, hayes and all the common. That would be pretty cool and informative
Hi, Good idea, will do
I've bled SRAM brakes many times and the little tidbit at 9:45 was something so obvious but never thought of doing.
Thanks for watching and your comments
Should mention that DOT 4 and 5 aren’t compatible at the beginning. DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are compatible, and can be used interchangeably. Good video otherwise, very helpful, thank you!
Thanks for the comment, good point.
Dot 5 is totally not compatible with dot 4 and/or dot 5.1. I would think you would like to pin this information to the top of the comments.
what about the bite point adjuster? I think its a good idea to open it up before starting the bleeding at all. Same as using a bleed block to make sure that the pistons doesn`t move out during the bleeding process.
Hi Anton, thanks for watching, fair point re the adjuster, Sometimes its better to have the pistons slightly out, you can force then mack in whilst holding the lever closed, this sends any air back in the syringe.
No bleed block? How do you stop the pistons from moving when your moving fluid through the system
slight pressure on the syringes and plenty of feel
Great instructional video, very informative and easy follow, I have code r breaks, Can I ust RSc I place using my original brake lines?
Hi, it depends of the new callipers have the same fitting, if they have then yes
A up Dave ..don’t want to tell you how to suck eggs …but regarding geting the pistons back ….with the pads out,use feeler gauges…pop some in so there nice and snug then get another feeler and lightly tap in down the middle ..repeat till the pistons are back in the calliper …dead easy …with no damage
Hi, Thanks for your comments, Thats one of the good things about sharing, some find it easier in different ways, it's what ever works best for you. the main thing is not to damage the pistons, and the are pushed back squarely.
Thanks for your comments.
can you do this with a dish instead of two syringes ?
Hi Barry, I wouldn't recommend anything but syringes, Every brake that I have ever worked on uses a syringe, either one and a funnel if it's shimano everything else is bled by syringe.
What's the red clip for on the tube mate. ?
Hi, Sorry for the late reply, its to lock off the tube to stop fluid
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic I was just curious as to why you didn't use them. Cheers 👍
@@dazbbgful they don't work well, and the syringe does the same job
I have found a better way to bleed these brakes,bleed as normal,then put the brake caliper with the brake pads in over the disc rotor or if not find a spare disc rotor and hold it in place,put the brake bleed tool in the the caliper,open bleed port on caliper , squeeze the syringe and lightly pull the brake lever until you feel some resitance ,this is the bit that makes these brakes work,stop pulling the brake lever push hard on the syringe and watch the brake pads close on to the disc,make sure the brake pads looks evenly pushed out, DO NOT stop squeezing the syringe and lock off the bleed port,repeat if necessary or when they lose there bite,
Hi, thank you for your comment, this is a good tip but its difficult to do on our customers bikes unless we are installing new pads, if not then when they coime to fit a new pair or another bike shop does the pads wont fit in without releasing a little bit of fluid, its not good practise in a bike workshop. but I can understand why you have done it.
how can i contact you with a view to you doing a few jobs on my mondraker , regards , john , i am in selby .
Morning John. Thanks for your comment, for all contact info head to our website www.cycle-fast.co.uk
Dave
Why are they designed like this? Why can't it be designed like a car or a motorbike, no special tools or processes needed.
Great point
The video should be called how to make SRAM Code brakes spongy. This is not the correct bleeding procedure…
Hi Thanks for watching and your comments.
Really bad advice here, I recommend not using this guys method, no bleed block or degassing of the syringes, seiously bad way to bleed already shitty brakes. Best way to bleed Code R's is to bin them along with the pads and get better brakes
Hi Thanks for watching and your comments.