Someone else has probably already commented on this but as a bike mechanic I've done many many bleeds and a little tip is when doing a lever bleed it also helps to tilt the lever both up and down 45 degrees while pumping it as bubbles will sometimes hide along the edges of the master cylinder. PS...you guys rock!! Cheers!!
The lever wasn’t full with oil. The mineral oil entered the lever replacing air with oil. The replaced air exits as bubbles.
2 หลายเดือนก่อน
i lifted up my front wheel, put it on a chair, for getting out the bubbles from rear brake line. also good tip. the air will go up better then. i just leave it for now a bit and sleep, tomorrow i am sure there is no air in it anymore.. flicking with finger can also help a bit. was also good tip.
Tip! If you're just doing a lever bleed, maybe best to pull pads and put a bleed block in so you don't overbleed the system. The last lever bleed I did was with worn pads & wheel in, meaning the pistons were already extended a bit. When I later replaced the pads & needed to push the pistons back in, it actually over-pressurized the system & I had fluid blow out the relief valve of the lever (as it had nowhere else to go). In hindsight, an alternative solution to this would be connecting the funnel before pushing the pistons back in, giving the excess fluid a place to go.
If you put a bleed block in then you are fully compressing the pistons making the total volume smaller, then once you put the wheel back in and the pistons readjust to the much thinner rotor you are increasing the volume and will be back to the same problem of not enough oil to fill the volume. You actually solved your own issue in the second part of your statement though. When you change to brand new pads, screw in the cup with oil, remove the old pads, compress the pistons, install the new pads, install your wheel, then finish the lever bleed.
@@Sandriell The brakes and reservoir volume are designed to be filled with the bleed blocks in place and can accommodate worn pads. If you overfill the brakes, on the other hand, you might not be able to change brake pads on the trail! That might not be a problem on a short ride, but if you spend a day in the mountains it is a no-go.
Completely agree with this - this video basically shows how to overfill the system, which is why the lever feel better afterwards. The air coming out is a result of the pistons advancing and the additional space being taken up by fluid in the master cylinder. IME if you're getting to the point of the lever being back at the bars then either the pistons are sticky and not advancing correctly, or you have wear on your pads or rotor.
Yup you did the right thing. It's like on a car when you top up the brake fluid when the brake pads and rotor wears down, creating more travel in the system. But when you push the calipers back you take fluid out of the system so it doesn't over flow.
Thank you so much for your lever bleed video. I own a Sur Ron X. It has 4 piston calipers(unknown brand) without bleed nipples. And with all the videos referring to Sur Rons, there are none explaining bleeding the brakes. This video helped. Thank you.
I love it how you guys didn't edit out all the small mistakes. Typically maintenance videos are about perfect execution of steps but in reality, we all make mistakes. We also learn from our mistakes and we can learn from other people's mistakes too. I think one of the greatest fear of new comers is "What if I make a mistake". This video shows that it's ok if you make a mistake, just learn from it and get it right the next time. Great content!
One question/comment - why squeeze and hold the lever when flicking the line for air bubbles? When the lever is depressed, any air bubble in the line will shrink much smaller (almost disappear) and will be much less likely to dislodge and rise to the top. I would recommend tapping the line without holding the lever so the air bubbles are big enough to work their way out.
This was awesome, thanks. I've happily changed brakes and bled everything on my car and motorbike but pretty new to bicycling (as an adult anyway). Bike brakes are so much smaller and more integrated than on vehicles, I was a bit confused but I feel much happier understanding the fill / bleed point and how easy it is. Great video.
awesome video Syd & Macky! another way to get your lever back to exact position if you do not wish to mark on your shiny new $200 carbon bar is use the angle app on your iphone. 🥳
I followed your advice and managed to make my brakes solid and sharp again! Saved me a 2months waiting for appointment. Thank you! When I removed the nut, there was no oil visible at all in the lever. And then I had to keep on pumping and rubbing the cable for like 20 times, bubbles coming out like crazy, until finally it became solid. I wonder where all that oil goes? I haven't seen any leaks either on the cable nor on the caliper... I had cut and installed the cable myself for the front brake, 2350mm custom length (cargo bike). The rear brake was still original factory sealed (watching a couple of TH-cam videos). Shimano Zee. I couldn't see any oil in neither of the brake levers after taking out the nut.
My new to me bike has some Hayes Prime Pro hydraulic brakes...and the front went real squishy today....gonna try doing this...thanks! I subscribed! I'M just one guy with a bunch of broken bikes with very minimal time to ride....but definitely want to....thanks again! 😇🙏💪
Looks like Gaerne SG10's on the shelf(MX boots). Those were my favorite back in my riding days. New to this Mountain Bike stuff and your channel has answered all my questions!!! Thanks!!!
I found a little adjustment next to my lever that allows for me to change the amount of pull back before it brakes. I like mine to be an almost hair trigger, and not have to pull it close to the grips
Thank you Syd. As I mentioned in your full bleed video comments, and you recommended, this is what I'll be doing. Looks easy enough except I don't know what brand brakes I have because Phatmoto branded the brakes Phatmoto. They look like Shimano but what model who knows. LOL not so much. Guess I'll be visiting my local bike shop 😒
This is the most inteligent and easy explain video about brakes i ever seen. Keep going, im interested. I do some services too, but if i do something once per year, i looking on internet for being sure i know what im doin. Cant wait for some realy big services videos. Thank you and i wish you succes.
Hey guys! Just found your channel while looking for a tutorial on how to bleed my brakes and it's absolutely awesome! There's a ton of good resources on yt already, but seeing Syd learning as she goes is great to watch! You guys have great camera presence (well, Syd at least, but Macky is great at explaining stuff in an easy to understand manner!) and I'm keen on learning along with you! I got my first ever mountain bike less than a month ago and am really stoked to learn about maintanance along with you! :D One suggestion - since Syd is a pro biker, maybe you could consider starting another channel dedicated to learning riding skills? With your approach to explaining I think It'd be cool to watch! Hope your channel does well and I'll keep my eyes peeled on new videos! Thanks again and have a good one! :)
Thanks for the kind words. In terms of riding tutorials, you should check out our friends Kyle and April's channel: th-cam.com/users/KyleAprilRideMtb Also, it's more vloggy, but we have a second channel that follows our adventures on the road: th-cam.com/users/sydandmacky
That means there are contaminants in it and can cause the fluid to expand or contract weirdly (because the contaminants don't react the way the fluid does) which makes the brake inconsistent.
you guys make it look so simple but there was still bubbles coming out no matter how many times i pumped my brakes. i tried both a lever and a full bleed on my front brakes and couldnt get it to feel right
Sorry to hear it. Possibilities: - There's a leak somewhere in the brake line - Your pads are worn and needs replacing (really worn pads will sometimes make the brake feel lousy even after a bleed) - The bleed funnel was screwed on weird and was allowing air into the system (this has happened to us before) Those are the main things we can think of...
Not sure what I did wrong but the brake line blew out at the caliber. Any thoughts what could cause that? The video is great and easy to follow, I was seeing bubbles, I held the lever and tapped the line.
Whoa! So the line actually separated from the caliper? Or just started leaking oil at the junction? Either way, sounds like something wasn't tight there or was damaged and it's fortunate it happened while bleeding and not while riding. I would try to tighten everything down there and look for any damage. Hopefully something just came loose!
@@sydfixesbikes yeah, the line blew out and separated right at junction that connects to the caliber. Right, I was to go to a bike park the next day. Thanks, going to go over the other brakes and check those while I wait for a new line.
So you don't need to retract the pistons and put a bleed block in? What about when it comes time to replace the pads and you push in the pistons, there's no where for the oil to go?
When you go to replace the pads, even if you aren't doing a bleed at the same time, just connect the funnel before pushing the pistons out. Or just pop off the lever bleed screw and cover it with a rag while you push the pistons out.
Do this way really works ? I like how this seems to be really easy and quick , but want to know if the liquid will do all the system ? or its just to take some bubbles our of the lever reservoir ?
Hello and thank for your vids, very informative, though I have a question please : if a lever bleed doesn't work, and the brake still feels spongy, what would be the next step? Full bleed?
All the videos of yours that I've seen deal with Shimano brakes. Does most of this also work for Tektro hydraulic brakes. I just had new pads and a chain replaced on a 2018 Evelo Delta X mountain bike. Everything is fine with the exception of the rear brake. It has a 180mm disc and despite a 16 mile shake down ride, that rear brake is still mushy. It will not bring the bike to a full stop from 15 mph in less than 30 seconds on its own. Using the front brake brings it down to under 10 seconds. I've decided to do it myself as I'm slightly upset with the shop I use. Other than this they have done excellent work. Is there anything I should look out for that might need to be done differently?
The front brake is 70% of your braking power so it's not surprising that it would slow you down more quickly. Also if you have a bigger rotor on the front (which is fairly common) that will also make the front more powerful. The best way to test the rear brake is if when you pull it firmly it will lock up the rear wheel. If not, there's something going on. Quite possibly it needs to be sanded and re-bedded: th-cam.com/video/qsZPUyFZaxQ/w-d-xo.html
@@sydfixesbikes Thanks for the reply. I have another 12 miles on the bike, it's been too hot where I live in Florida to ride much during the day. Anyway, the brake doesn't go all the way to the handlebar now, it is still a bit spongy and no it will not lock the wheel up. The shop had told me the disc had been sanded but would require a replacement next set of brake pads. It is centered and not deformed (no rubbing) so I'm going to do a full gravity bleed. I have the heavy-duty Parks Tool A-frame so keeping the caliper at the low point won't be a problem. I've watched several more of your videos and they're very easy to understand. I've always believed in reading the instructions, but it's much better to see the procedure actually being done. Thanks again for the answer and both of you keep smilin. 🚵♂🖖😎
@@hardrider5905 not really, but it takes a couple minutes to set them up just right again, or I end up having to take out the multi tool to make some little adjustment next time I ride. Not a big deal, but an avoidable hassle.
¿Sabes que es lo que me gusta de ti? ¡Lo sencilla que eres como persona, y la inteligencia que le pones a ese amor por hacer las cosas que haces! Es eso, además del corazón de niña que tienes todavía, eres como una fuente cristalina...
I've never thought about doing lever bleed only. Always did full bleed, but this makes a lot of sense and it's so much quicker. Thank you, this was really useful :D
These guides are brilliant, especially the format of filming the whole process and then adding a quick step by step at the end - perfect when sat in the garage with the phone at hand.
Hey guys, just wanted to say that your new channel is soooo helpful. I love the format. This vid especially, as in the past I'd just thought, "Brake bleed? No way. Down to the bike shop I go, that sounds too technical". They're really confidence inspiring vids, so thank you!! And it's also super useful to hear stuff in layman's terms too rather than all the technical jargon that often makes a job sound way more complicated than it actually is. Keep up the good work yous two!
The last step of the SRAM bleeing procedure is only dealing with the lever. You have the syringe attached to the lever and you pull and push on the plunger to remove the last bit of air. In the Shimano bleed, the procedure Syd did is also done at the very end of the bleeding procedure in order to remove the last air bubbles. So yes, I assume that you can do the same with SRAM brakes. However you still need to degas the DOT oil beforehand. Then just follow the lever bleed part of the whole procedure. I've never done it myself so I'm not sure what the result will be ;)
Fantastic! Thanks to you, I managed to do a lever bleed within minutes - and there were lots of bubbles coming up :) In the end, it still turned out that I needed to replace my pads, but now I feel confident enough to perform a full bleed if needed!
Hi and thanks for that video. I have a question. Isn't the “missing” oil in the brake lever reservoir attribute to the fact that pistons are in “operational” position? So, filling up this reservoir should result into too much oil in the system, right? I prefer a slightly longer version of the quick bleed that includes pushing the pistons back and using a bleed block before starting the process you described. 🤙
My front brake went from a working state to not at all between rides. I wasn't sure that this would fix my issue but after a test ride, this seems to have resolved the issue. Thank you! Subbed!
Same heare, went from having to pump them to not touching the rotor in 2 days, tought for sure that my levers and/or calipers were dead, I followed this video and they feel brand new again. Thank you Syd.
You pair totally rock! I have followed loads of your tips and this brake lever bleed was just the best ever! Now i can stop again :) Thanks very much indeed.
Thank you for this video. Got a new bike and after a few weeks the rear break started getting soft and pulled to the grip. After watching this video I ordered a break bleed kit off Amazon and used this method to bleed it and it worked perfectly. Thank for sharing.
Thank you for this! I used this guide to fix a brake lever that went squishy. I've never had hydraulic brakes before and they seemed like black magic, this video totally demystified them for me.
Here is a tip that helped me. When you pour the mineral oil, turn it so the jug is sideways. This way it will pour easier without the “gulps”. Its like pouring windshield washer fluid into a car. Thanks for the great content on this channel!
These are great! Really appreciate and enjoy the new channel. It will be very helpful as my son and I will overhaul our two bikes over the winter. The Shed is great too! Love all the parts on the shelves!!
You should watch our channel trailer (th-cam.com/video/yizxxFW7-Qg/w-d-xo.html), it explains that the idea behind this channel is that Macky is teaching me to work on bikes. He has a lot more experience working on bikes and until recently did all the bike work for both of us. That's why he's providing advice, suggestions, and teaching me while I actually do the work so I can learn.
Alright. I'll finally give this a try. I've been waffling on whether or not to bleed my own brakes, but I'll start with a lever bleed. Thanks as always.
I'm not the first to say this but THANK YOU for this video!! I've had a kit in my garage for maybe 2 months now, but haven't had the courage to tackle the job for fear of messing up the whole brake system and being without my bike until the shop could fix it. As Syd said, this completely "demystified" the process and everything went smooth as silk. Got out tons of bubbles on both brakes, but no dark stuff... woohoo! Thank you thank you thank you. Can't wait for the full bleed vid!
Usually, do new hydraulic Disc brakes (NUTT BRAND) come with brake pads already installed? Do new hydraulic brakes need to be bleed before first use ? Thanks
We don't have any experience with NUTT, but in our experience, new brakes come with the pads installed and only require a lever bleed if the hoses are shortened during install (th-cam.com/video/7_-2UCbCyzE/w-d-xo.html). They do need to be bedded in though (as discussed towards the end of this video: th-cam.com/video/qsZPUyFZaxQ/w-d-xo.html)
I know Shimano say to do it that way but i wouldn't have ever fitted the cup after i put oil in it, nothing to gain other than being pedantic and everything to lose with the risk of spillage. Fit the cup then add the oil.
Hey Syd and Mackie. I have tried multiple times to make my hydraulic brakes to work, not succeeded yet, but your video is so upbeat and straightforward I am going to try again. I especially like the video format of going slowly and then repeating the steps in summary. Great job. I will support you with $
Worth pointing out that mineral oil (shimano brakes) and brake fluid (glycol-ether) (some other brakes) are not the same stuff at all. Mineral oil is pretty harmless. The gylcol stuff both eats paint (fairly slowly) and is harmful to aquatic life (and people). So you can be a whole less paranoid about spillages with the shimano mineral oil system. It's no worse than spilling any other oil in small quantities. And you don't need a specific brake-fluid cleaner, anything that cleans oils will do.
A back brake will not go spongy quicker than a front one because its longer. The pipe is a constant size, and the levers and calipers are identical. If all the air is bled out you are moving exactly the same amount of fluid in each brake, it does not matter how long the pipe is. If the front pipe was a metre long and the lever moved 5 cc, it would travel a metre. If the back pipe was 1.5 metre long and your lever moved 5 cc, it would still be 5 cc at the rear caliper, the distance does not change the quantity.
Thanks, after watching all other brake bleeding videos I was like f it, I will take it to bike shop. After watching your video, I was like ok gonna order the funnel from Amazon to do it myself.
This overloads the system if pistons are out during bleed.. Not good when you want to change your pads and pistons won't retract.. You then have remove the lever bleed screw and use funnel to catch excess fluid. Just something to remember before you pop a seal trying to retract your pistons.
Seems like the guy should be doing the video. She's asking how to do it. Why not let the person with a actual knowledge show us. I stopped watching because of this.
Thank you for saving me time trouble and money. I really like to know my bikes in and out and do as much as possible.....watching these tips helps me do it right the first time
Syd is clueless and she makes comments to the brains of the operation Its really not a proper bleed Strong possibility of a air bubble being stuck in piston cylinder this is a rigged job You really cant charge for this short cut A gravity bleed is always a sure short for bicycles and none abs motorcycles Romperoom back in session give me a break man
You keep making these look so much fun to do. Will have to do my rear brake, lever goes to the bar after sitting at work for the day. V annoying as that isnt cheap, is the Deore XT. The front i just changed cos the XT piston was contaminating the pads and discs so that is just a Deore. Would be interesting to see a calliper maintenance if you do them?
If this video was helpful and saved you time and/or money, consider supporting the channel by hitting the "Thanks" button above to leave a tip.
where is the thanks button, for tip? Love the videos.
Hit the like 👍 button 😂@@saulfernandez8876
Someone else has probably already commented on this but as a bike mechanic I've done many many bleeds and a little tip is when doing a lever bleed it also helps to tilt the lever both up and down 45 degrees while pumping it as bubbles will sometimes hide along the edges of the master cylinder. PS...you guys rock!! Cheers!!
Great tip!
Dude an year later, different bike (Gravel) That solved an issue i tried to solve multiple times with an full bleed.
Cheers.
I wondered where those bubbles were coming from. Thanks!
The lever wasn’t full with oil. The mineral oil entered the lever replacing air with oil. The replaced air exits as bubbles.
i lifted up my front wheel, put it on a chair, for getting out the bubbles from rear brake line. also good tip. the air will go up better then. i just leave it for now a bit and sleep, tomorrow i am sure there is no air in it anymore.. flicking with finger can also help a bit. was also good tip.
Tip! If you're just doing a lever bleed, maybe best to pull pads and put a bleed block in so you don't overbleed the system. The last lever bleed I did was with worn pads & wheel in, meaning the pistons were already extended a bit. When I later replaced the pads & needed to push the pistons back in, it actually over-pressurized the system & I had fluid blow out the relief valve of the lever (as it had nowhere else to go). In hindsight, an alternative solution to this would be connecting the funnel before pushing the pistons back in, giving the excess fluid a place to go.
If you put a bleed block in then you are fully compressing the pistons making the total volume smaller, then once you put the wheel back in and the pistons readjust to the much thinner rotor you are increasing the volume and will be back to the same problem of not enough oil to fill the volume. You actually solved your own issue in the second part of your statement though. When you change to brand new pads, screw in the cup with oil, remove the old pads, compress the pistons, install the new pads, install your wheel, then finish the lever bleed.
@@Sandriell The brakes and reservoir volume are designed to be filled with the bleed blocks in place and can accommodate worn pads. If you overfill the brakes, on the other hand, you might not be able to change brake pads on the trail! That might not be a problem on a short ride, but if you spend a day in the mountains it is a no-go.
Completely agree with this - this video basically shows how to overfill the system, which is why the lever feel better afterwards. The air coming out is a result of the pistons advancing and the additional space being taken up by fluid in the master cylinder. IME if you're getting to the point of the lever being back at the bars then either the pistons are sticky and not advancing correctly, or you have wear on your pads or rotor.
@@leepowelldev that's the whole point. To bleed the brakes to account for the wear of the pads and rotors
Yup you did the right thing. It's like on a car when you top up the brake fluid when the brake pads and rotor wears down, creating more travel in the system. But when you push the calipers back you take fluid out of the system so it doesn't over flow.
Thank you so much for your lever bleed video. I own a Sur Ron X. It has 4 piston calipers(unknown brand) without bleed nipples. And with all the videos referring to Sur Rons, there are none explaining bleeding the brakes. This video helped. Thank you.
I love it how you guys didn't edit out all the small mistakes. Typically maintenance videos are about perfect execution of steps but in reality, we all make mistakes. We also learn from our mistakes and we can learn from other people's mistakes too. I think one of the greatest fear of new comers is "What if I make a mistake". This video shows that it's ok if you make a mistake, just learn from it and get it right the next time. Great content!
100% agree
Hey guys, thank you so much for common sense, relatable, understandable instructional videos!
One question/comment - why squeeze and hold the lever when flicking the line for air bubbles? When the lever is depressed, any air bubble in the line will shrink much smaller (almost disappear) and will be much less likely to dislodge and rise to the top. I would recommend tapping the line without holding the lever so the air bubbles are big enough to work their way out.
This was awesome, thanks. I've happily changed brakes and bled everything on my car and motorbike but pretty new to bicycling (as an adult anyway). Bike brakes are so much smaller and more integrated than on vehicles, I was a bit confused but I feel much happier understanding the fill / bleed point and how easy it is. Great video.
awesome video Syd & Macky! another way to get your lever back to exact position if you do not wish to mark on your shiny new $200 carbon bar is use the angle app on your iphone. 🥳
I followed your advice and managed to make my brakes solid and sharp again! Saved me a 2months waiting for appointment. Thank you!
When I removed the nut, there was no oil visible at all in the lever. And then I had to keep on pumping and rubbing the cable for like 20 times, bubbles coming out like crazy, until finally it became solid.
I wonder where all that oil goes? I haven't seen any leaks either on the cable nor on the caliper...
I had cut and installed the cable myself for the front brake, 2350mm custom length (cargo bike). The rear brake was still original factory sealed (watching a couple of TH-cam videos). Shimano Zee.
I couldn't see any oil in neither of the brake levers after taking out the nut.
You should definitely check your brake pads! Low oil is often a sign that the pads have worn out!
My new to me bike has some Hayes Prime Pro hydraulic brakes...and the front went real squishy today....gonna try doing this...thanks! I subscribed! I'M just one guy with a bunch of broken bikes with very minimal time to ride....but definitely want to....thanks again!
😇🙏💪
Looks like Gaerne SG10's on the shelf(MX boots). Those were my favorite back in my riding days. New to this Mountain Bike stuff and your channel has answered all my questions!!! Thanks!!!
Just what I need to do. Waiting for my cup and oil to arrive. Thank you.
I'm gonna attempt to do this for the first time this weekend. Great vid!
I found a little adjustment next to my lever that allows for me to change the amount of pull back before it brakes. I like mine to be an almost hair trigger, and not have to pull it close to the grips
Thank you Syd. As I mentioned in your full bleed video comments, and you recommended, this is what I'll be doing. Looks easy enough except I don't know what brand brakes I have because Phatmoto branded the brakes Phatmoto. They look like Shimano but what model who knows. LOL not so much. Guess I'll be visiting my local bike shop 😒
Def do this with a new brake install even if the cable was not cut. My front shimano had a ton of air!
The sound the nostalgia and PROPER racing 3 pedals and a gear stick
Much easier than I was expecting it to be. Thanks for sharing.
Great demo. Gonna try it now!
Thanks team. Your instructions worked like a charm!
This is the most inteligent and easy explain video about brakes i ever seen. Keep going, im interested. I do some services too, but if i do something once per year, i looking on internet for being sure i know what im doin. Cant wait for some realy big services videos. Thank you and i wish you succes.
Just done this on our Cube MTBs.
Thx for the video 👍👍🚴🚴 UK
Infinitely useful video, thanks team!
To not use marker pen: bleed one lever and than adjust position parallel to the other one, proceed to the opposite lever and do the same :)
Exactly! Since you´re doing one at the time there is zero reason to use a marker... Just unnecessary extra work and time.
Hey guys! Just found your channel while looking for a tutorial on how to bleed my brakes and it's absolutely awesome! There's a ton of good resources on yt already, but seeing Syd learning as she goes is great to watch! You guys have great camera presence (well, Syd at least, but Macky is great at explaining stuff in an easy to understand manner!) and I'm keen on learning along with you! I got my first ever mountain bike less than a month ago and am really stoked to learn about maintanance along with you! :D One suggestion - since Syd is a pro biker, maybe you could consider starting another channel dedicated to learning riding skills? With your approach to explaining I think It'd be cool to watch! Hope your channel does well and I'll keep my eyes peeled on new videos! Thanks again and have a good one! :)
Thanks for the kind words. In terms of riding tutorials, you should check out our friends Kyle and April's channel: th-cam.com/users/KyleAprilRideMtb
Also, it's more vloggy, but we have a second channel that follows our adventures on the road: th-cam.com/users/sydandmacky
wow, watching you for a last week, guys you are runing super duper interesting youtube channel!
Hey I just found this and did my first lever bleed - so simple! More of these videos please
If you want to picky then level to the ground on all planes is most accurate.
Great, easy to follow video. Thanks!
Great vid. Can I ask why it matters if the fluid is dirty?
That means there are contaminants in it and can cause the fluid to expand or contract weirdly (because the contaminants don't react the way the fluid does) which makes the brake inconsistent.
Can you guys please do this for sram!!!!
Rockrider
you guys make it look so simple but there was still bubbles coming out no matter how many times i pumped my brakes. i tried both a lever and a full bleed on my front brakes and couldnt get it to feel right
Sorry to hear it. Possibilities:
- There's a leak somewhere in the brake line
- Your pads are worn and needs replacing (really worn pads will sometimes make the brake feel lousy even after a bleed)
- The bleed funnel was screwed on weird and was allowing air into the system (this has happened to us before)
Those are the main things we can think of...
Thank you kindly
Not sure what I did wrong but the brake line blew out at the caliber. Any thoughts what could cause that? The video is great and easy to follow, I was seeing bubbles, I held the lever and tapped the line.
Whoa! So the line actually separated from the caliper? Or just started leaking oil at the junction? Either way, sounds like something wasn't tight there or was damaged and it's fortunate it happened while bleeding and not while riding. I would try to tighten everything down there and look for any damage. Hopefully something just came loose!
@@sydfixesbikes yeah, the line blew out and separated right at junction that connects to the caliber.
Right, I was to go to a bike park the next day. Thanks, going to go over the other brakes and check those while I wait for a new line.
Does this same proceedure apply to nutt brakes.
Thanks! Ok to pour the fluid from the cup back in the bottle if its still clean?
If it's still clean, yes
Can you do this on most models or just shimano
With this method, you don’t need to remove the pads and use a brake block between the pistons?
Correct
Right on 😎
So you don't need to retract the pistons and put a bleed block in? What about when it comes time to replace the pads and you push in the pistons, there's no where for the oil to go?
When you go to replace the pads, even if you aren't doing a bleed at the same time, just connect the funnel before pushing the pistons out. Or just pop off the lever bleed screw and cover it with a rag while you push the pistons out.
@@sydfixesbikes Aah ok thanks, today I had the the old have to pump the lever till it felt stiff so will have to do a lever bleed
Do this way really works ? I like how this seems to be really easy and quick , but want to know if the liquid will do all the system ? or its just to take some bubbles our of the lever reservoir ?
This is just getting bubbles out of the system, it is not changing all the fluid.
Don’t over tighten the little screw on the lever! I broke mine and needed a new lever :)
Hello and thank for your vids, very informative, though I have a question please : if a lever bleed doesn't work, and the brake still feels spongy, what would be the next step? Full bleed?
First make sure the caliper is centered, but then, yes full bleed is the next step.
@@sydfixesbikes centered with the rotor I assume? All this is new to me.
Correct. Here's a video: th-cam.com/video/xWmlK5Qbt_U/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video! Do I have to remove the wheel and pads in order to do this?
Nope
I love the idea of conspiracy theorists claiming the earth is parallel to the ground
All the videos of yours that I've seen deal with Shimano brakes. Does most of this also work for Tektro hydraulic brakes. I just had new pads and a chain replaced on a 2018 Evelo Delta X mountain bike. Everything is fine with the exception of the rear brake. It has a 180mm disc and despite a 16 mile shake down ride, that rear brake is still mushy. It will not bring the bike to a full stop from 15 mph in less than 30 seconds on its own. Using the front brake brings it down to under 10 seconds. I've decided to do it myself as I'm slightly upset with the shop I use. Other than this they have done excellent work. Is there anything I should look out for that might need to be done differently?
The front brake is 70% of your braking power so it's not surprising that it would slow you down more quickly. Also if you have a bigger rotor on the front (which is fairly common) that will also make the front more powerful. The best way to test the rear brake is if when you pull it firmly it will lock up the rear wheel. If not, there's something going on. Quite possibly it needs to be sanded and re-bedded: th-cam.com/video/qsZPUyFZaxQ/w-d-xo.html
@@sydfixesbikes Thanks for the reply. I have another 12 miles on the bike, it's been too hot where I live in Florida to ride much during the day. Anyway, the brake doesn't go all the way to the handlebar now, it is still a bit spongy and no it will not lock the wheel up. The shop had told me the disc had been sanded but would require a replacement next set of brake pads. It is centered and not deformed (no rubbing) so I'm going to do a full gravity bleed. I have the heavy-duty Parks Tool A-frame so keeping the caliper at the low point won't be a problem. I've watched several more of your videos and they're very easy to understand. I've always believed in reading the instructions, but it's much better to see the procedure actually being done. Thanks again for the answer and both of you keep smilin. 🚵♂🖖😎
nice one. thanks for sharing:)
I know how to bubble bleed now, woo!
Can you do a lever bleed with a different brand of mineral oil than what’s already in the system?
We've always just used Shimano oil, but I assume as long as it was the same viscosity it should work...
Are there cups for sram brakes as well? They look like a real life saver
Unfortunately bleeding SRAM brakes requires syringes.
Good 👍👍👍👍👍
Wear gloves is a great idea too!
Hi thanks for this video does the cup work on guide breaks. Thanks
I don't believe so.
Thanks👍
I ALWAYS forget to mark the position of my levers 😂
Is it a problem, do you forget where your fave position is?
@@hardrider5905 not really, but it takes a couple minutes to set them up just right again, or I end up having to take out the multi tool to make some little adjustment next time I ride.
Not a big deal, but an avoidable hassle.
We'll be posting a video about how to do a full bleed later this week so make sure you're subscribed!
😍
¿Sabes que es lo que me gusta de ti?
¡Lo sencilla que eres como persona, y la inteligencia que le pones a ese amor por hacer las cosas que haces!
Es eso, además del corazón de niña que tienes todavía, eres como una fuente cristalina...
I would like to subscribed but the lack of closed captioning sadly discouraged me from doing so.
I've never thought about doing lever bleed only. Always did full bleed, but this makes a lot of sense and it's so much quicker. Thank you, this was really useful :D
These guides are brilliant, especially the format of filming the whole process and then adding a quick step by step at the end - perfect when sat in the garage with the phone at hand.
Hey guys, just wanted to say that your new channel is soooo helpful. I love the format. This vid especially, as in the past I'd just thought, "Brake bleed? No way. Down to the bike shop I go, that sounds too technical". They're really confidence inspiring vids, so thank you!! And it's also super useful to hear stuff in layman's terms too rather than all the technical jargon that often makes a job sound way more complicated than it actually is. Keep up the good work yous two!
I’m loving all these tutorials! I just got into mtb and these are definitely the easiest to follow along with as I try to fix up my own bike
Can you do the lever bleed for Sram brakes like this too? Since full bleed procedures are different.
Step 1: remove and discard SRAM brakes
Step 2: install Shimano brakes
Step 3: refer to Shimano bleed procedure video
@@GHinWI It is not that hard to do either full brake bleed :D
@@dairatars SRAM is manageable too but it's roughly 745 times more laborious than Shimano..
My exact question. One of my bikes has SRAM brakes. Sigh.
The last step of the SRAM bleeing procedure is only dealing with the lever. You have the syringe attached to the lever and you pull and push on the plunger to remove the last bit of air. In the Shimano bleed, the procedure Syd did is also done at the very end of the bleeding procedure in order to remove the last air bubbles. So yes, I assume that you can do the same with SRAM brakes. However you still need to degas the DOT oil beforehand. Then just follow the lever bleed part of the whole procedure. I've never done it myself so I'm not sure what the result will be ;)
So good. My 12 year old son, also my bike buddy and budding mechanic, is eating this up as well. You've got a great thing going. Thanks so much.
Unsurprisingly incoherent.
@@strategicthinker8899 ?
Fantastic! Thanks to you, I managed to do a lever bleed within minutes - and there were lots of bubbles coming up :) In the end, it still turned out that I needed to replace my pads, but now I feel confident enough to perform a full bleed if needed!
Try using a pencil instead of a paint marker. Easy to mark and easy to remove or if you leave the mark on it does not stand out.
Hi and thanks for that video.
I have a question. Isn't the “missing” oil in the brake lever reservoir attribute to the fact that pistons are in “operational” position? So, filling up this reservoir should result into too much oil in the system, right?
I prefer a slightly longer version of the quick bleed that includes pushing the pistons back and using a bleed block before starting the process you described. 🤙
Excellent. I order a bleed kit a few months ago but was a little nervous to do it until I watched this and it went flawless.
My front brake went from a working state to not at all between rides. I wasn't sure that this would fix my issue but after a test ride, this seems to have resolved the issue. Thank you! Subbed!
Same heare, went from having to pump them to not touching the rotor in 2 days, tought for sure that my levers and/or calipers were dead, I followed this video and they feel brand new again. Thank you Syd.
thanks guys this is just what I needed to find out. Time to get bleeding! :D
You pair totally rock! I have followed loads of your tips and this brake lever bleed was just the best ever! Now i can stop again :) Thanks very much indeed.
Thank you for this video. Got a new bike and after a few weeks the rear break started getting soft and pulled to the grip. After watching this video I ordered a break bleed kit off Amazon and used this method to bleed it and it worked perfectly. Thank for sharing.
Thank you for this! I used this guide to fix a brake lever that went squishy. I've never had hydraulic brakes before and they seemed like black magic, this video totally demystified them for me.
Here is a tip that helped me. When you pour the mineral oil, turn it so the jug is sideways. This way it will pour easier without the “gulps”. Its like pouring windshield washer fluid into a car. Thanks for the great content on this channel!
Yep, same with pouring a quart of oil into your engine.
These are great! Really appreciate and enjoy the new channel. It will be very helpful as my son and I will overhaul our two bikes over the winter. The Shed is great too! Love all the parts on the shelves!!
What do you do with the mineral oil after? can you you use re-use it after its been used to collect air? good video.
As long as the fluid is clean, you can reuse it. If there's any dirt or discoloration, dispose of it.
Camera man, let the woman speak for Christ's sake, let her do her job, we get it, you are smart but I came to watch the woman tell me how to do it!
You should watch our channel trailer (th-cam.com/video/yizxxFW7-Qg/w-d-xo.html), it explains that the idea behind this channel is that Macky is teaching me to work on bikes. He has a lot more experience working on bikes and until recently did all the bike work for both of us. That's why he's providing advice, suggestions, and teaching me while I actually do the work so I can learn.
Well done and I just ordered the shimano cup as I had Avid brakes before, that is so simple :)
Alright. I'll finally give this a try. I've been waffling on whether or not to bleed my own brakes, but I'll start with a lever bleed. Thanks as always.
Yes, everyone with Shimano brakes should have a funnel and mineral oil. It’s crazy cheap and compact and the lever bleed process is a cake walk.
I'm not the first to say this but THANK YOU for this video!! I've had a kit in my garage for maybe 2 months now, but haven't had the courage to tackle the job for fear of messing up the whole brake system and being without my bike until the shop could fix it. As Syd said, this completely "demystified" the process and everything went smooth as silk. Got out tons of bubbles on both brakes, but no dark stuff... woohoo! Thank you thank you thank you. Can't wait for the full bleed vid!
Usually, do new hydraulic Disc brakes (NUTT BRAND) come with brake pads already installed? Do new hydraulic brakes need to be bleed before first use ? Thanks
We don't have any experience with NUTT, but in our experience, new brakes come with the pads installed and only require a lever bleed if the hoses are shortened during install (th-cam.com/video/7_-2UCbCyzE/w-d-xo.html). They do need to be bedded in though (as discussed towards the end of this video: th-cam.com/video/qsZPUyFZaxQ/w-d-xo.html)
@@sydfixesbikes THANKS !
Niiiice
Great video. Simple and to the point! You just got another subscriber.
I know Shimano say to do it that way but i wouldn't have ever fitted the cup after i put oil in it, nothing to gain other than being pedantic and everything to lose with the risk of spillage.
Fit the cup then add the oil.
Yeah, either way is fine.
Hey Syd and Mackie. I have tried multiple times to make my hydraulic brakes to work, not succeeded yet, but your video is so upbeat and straightforward I am going to try again. I especially like the video format of going slowly and then repeating the steps in summary. Great job. I will support you with $
Worth pointing out that mineral oil (shimano brakes) and brake fluid (glycol-ether) (some other brakes) are not the same stuff at all. Mineral oil is pretty harmless. The gylcol stuff both eats paint (fairly slowly) and is harmful to aquatic life (and people). So you can be a whole less paranoid about spillages with the shimano mineral oil system. It's no worse than spilling any other oil in small quantities. And you don't need a specific brake-fluid cleaner, anything that cleans oils will do.
A back brake will not go spongy quicker than a front one because its longer. The pipe is a constant size, and the levers and calipers are identical. If all the air is bled out you are moving exactly the same amount of fluid in each brake, it does not matter how long the pipe is. If the front pipe was a metre long and the lever moved 5 cc, it would travel a metre. If the back pipe was 1.5 metre long and your lever moved 5 cc, it would still be 5 cc at the rear caliper, the distance does not change the quantity.
Thanks, after watching all other brake bleeding videos I was like f it, I will take it to bike shop. After watching your video, I was like ok gonna order the funnel from Amazon to do it myself.
So....I don't actually need the first step of having a cat sit on my head ?
This overloads the system if pistons are out during bleed.. Not good when you want to change your pads and pistons won't retract.. You then have remove the lever bleed screw and use funnel to catch excess fluid. Just something to remember before you pop a seal trying to retract your pistons.
Great stuff Syd and Macky on the Camera 🎥👍🚴🏴🏴👌
I love the format of these videos. It's super helpful to someone who is trying to learn more advanced bike maintenance. Thanks guys!
Massive thanks to you both for the gravity brake bleed video...dug me out of a hole and gained serious points with my nephew :-)
Seems like the guy should be doing the video. She's asking how to do it. Why not let the person with a actual knowledge show us. I stopped watching because of this.
Did this with my new SLX brakes with fluid already in them. Cut the hoses down and followed this guide. Done in 10. Thanks you two! 👍
Thank you for saving me time trouble and money. I really like to know my bikes in and out and do as much as possible.....watching these tips helps me do it right the first time
Great tip, I was about to do a full bleed and this helped me a avoid that longer process. Thanks
Syd is clueless and she makes comments to the brains of the operation Its really not a proper bleed Strong possibility of a air bubble being stuck in piston cylinder this is a rigged job You really cant charge for this short cut A gravity bleed is always a sure short for bicycles and none abs motorcycles Romperoom back in session give me a break man
This worked a treat. Especially helpful were the deliberate mistakes. I would almost certainly have lost the o ring!
One small tip. When filling the funnel, if you pour the big bottle with the opening at the top, it won’t glug
You keep making these look so much fun to do. Will have to do my rear brake, lever goes to the bar after sitting at work for the day. V annoying as that isnt cheap, is the Deore XT. The front i just changed cos the XT piston was contaminating the pads and discs so that is just a Deore. Would be interesting to see a calliper maintenance if you do them?