How To Bleed New Sram MTB Brakes | Bleeding Edge Technology
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- The latest Sram brakes with the bleeding edge port and relevant adapter are designed to make bleeding your brakes mess and hassle free. Doddy's got you covered for the specifics of this new system.
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The Sram bleeding edge port appears on some Sram brake models from 2015 onwards. Doddy recommends going about the bleed process in this order to get the best results from your brakes.
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Whoever at GMBN green lighted Doddy and the Tech Channel, you are a genius! Doddy is far and away the best presenter for tech and how-to's. Thanks!
@@siriosstar4789 nah. i'm not here to be coddled. they put out serious content and we learn...keep it moving.
@@siriosstar4789 Get over yourself.
@@siriosstar4789 would you like him to give you a pat on the back? Get over yourself tool.
@@siriosstar4789 Lol what do you want, a big thank you at the end of every video? Who cares.
Great Video, Thank you! I changed brake pads and bled the system on my SRAM Guide Brakes. Worked as described with one exception. When I was done I realized I couldn't pressurize the system the way you describe (at about 12:15) from the lever/reservoir as you instantly loose the pressure, (and a fair amount of fluid) replacing the reservoir screw.
I ended up pressurizing the system from the caliper end once I had bled the brake lines and closed off and replaced the hex screw at the lever. I worked beautifully and was able to keep the system pressurized by tightening the caliper bleed nut while I had it under slight pressure from the syringe. What I gave me was the instant brake feel in the lever, with out all of the lever travel that occurs with unpressurized brake system.
experiencing the same on my guide r, I will try this trick as well in hopes of getting that mushy lever feeling away!
Great advise. I’m going to try this
Genius! Great idea!
I did it this way after reading your comment. 1000% better than Sram’s way. Instantly better brakes
Thanks! This is hands down, the most useful comment ever. Thank you! 🙏 😊
I come back to this each year when it’s time to bleed my brakes for the new season. Excellent demonstration!
For some reason ive never bled my 2009 avid elixir just put new pads on as needed ?…? The same with my ‘16 m8000 shimano brakes but im here because my new bike came with sram and the Level tL kinda suck as far a lever throw and now have to buy a bleed KiT ?
I bleed my brakes 2/3 times a season lol, just to make sure they're 100% when I do bike parks/Gnar
Doddy, I can’t thank you enough for this video. I followed it step by step after accidentally popping out a piston on my Guide’s. I bought the kit you mentioned, followed every step, and the result is perfect. Thanks so much.
OK, I had to change levers on my Guide R brakes so needed to bleed them after. I watched the Sram video and this one several times, then ordered all the tools, and started. Took two tries but got the front brakes great. The rear were a different story. So I watched the video again to make sure. After six tries, the final one with the caliper completely off the bike so I could get the hose straight to make sure no air was being trapped, I had to go off script. No matter what I did, after pressurizing the system a little, when I would remove the syringe from the lever it would squirt back some fluid and leave the lever too soft. (again this worked fine on the front) I finally, carefully, put the bleeding point syringe back on the caliper, and pressurized the system, just a little, from there. Now the rear are as solid as the front.
I realise I'm about 8 months late on commenting but you're right, dont pressurise the system from the lever. I found that sealing off the lever and adding pressure through the caliper then shutting the system off with the bleeding edge significantly improves the feel and effectiveness of the brake
Thanks, I've watched several bleed videos and found one with another great tip @7m14 for bleeding at the midpoint adjustment
th-cam.com/video/ACGyA1QVWIg/w-d-xo.html
Oooooooooh I’m 2 years late but I’m going to try the calliper pressure suggestion today. Sick of spongy rear lever
At your own risk and carefully to not spill dot fluid all over: Do the bleed as per instructions. Re-attach the wheel, stick the syringe thing to bleeding edge port on the caliper with some amount of fluid in it (if not already in). Screw the port open and make sure you are not pushing air to the system (keep syringe pointing upwards and make some vacuum to pull any air from the system). Push syringe until brake pads almost touch the rotor. Close the port while holding the pressure. Make some vacuum on the syringe before/while removing the syringe to prevent dot fluid from going all over. Levers should bite almost instantly now.
@@amend2806 legend. Thank you! It does make more sense to add pressure without the bleed block place unlike the way they tell you with the block in cos otherwise it's just the same as before it was bled again 😂
Big into Mountain Biking in my 30's, back into it in my 60's. Bike have changed a lot and this video helped my bleed my brakes flawlessly. Thanks.
You can remove the little clip in the retaining pad bolt with the 2.5mm allen key. The clip has the eyebolt that is exactly sized for the 2.5mm allen key and in this way you won't lose it
Doddy, thank you for escorting me through my first brakes bleed on my 2021 SC Tallboy. Sadly the base level SRAM G2 brakes that came on my S-carbon bike build were the older, pre-bleeding edge system, but the bleed process wasn’t that much worse than what you showed. I clamped my bike with her tail up in the air. When I removed the syringe from the rear caliper port a couple drops of oil scooted out before I could reinsert the port screw. Squeezing the plunger at the handlebar forced a tiny bubble and a couple drops of oil out out the rear port before I tightened the screw down. Everything else was the same as in your video.
I probably could have figured it out without your video, and the Park Tools brakes bleed video is also excellent, but I doubt it would have gone as smoothly on my first attempt without your crystal-clear instructions. Bravo!
One of the best and easiest to follow tutorials I've ever watched. Thanks a mil Doddy!
Thanks, Doddy!! I needed to bleed my rear brake and your video was invaluable. I had never done it before and following your video made bleeding the brake much easier. Without your help I would have had to take it to the shop for service which would have been about a 2 to 3 week wait due to the Covid 19 pandemic causing a back up in service time. I rode today and the brakes worked great. Thanks again, and if you ever come to Pennsylvania to ride in Coopers Gap/Rothrock State Forest, I owe you a beer!
This still results in a mushy lever that takes a lot of travel before it bites. If you want to firm it up, you need to do it with the wheels on and pads in. If you don't need a full bleed, connect at the caliper, then loosen the bolt at the lever. Open the valve and force fluid in at the caliper until it comes out the lever, then put the lever bolt back in. Then give the syringe some pressure and close off the valve at the caliper. You do need to be careful doing this and clean up any spilled fluid. This will get the brakes much closer to the fast initial bite that you may expect from Shimano, while still giving you the good modulation you expect from SRAM.
This 100%. I'm not sure how someone can say they're pressurizing the system when they unscrew the syringe and let fluid leak out at the lever then just put the screw back in.
And you may end up with the DOT spilling out of the pressure relief holes located in levers. I personally think it will be leaking until it become the same mushy long dead stroke feel like before. Experienced fellas also say this is the way to damage the internal bladder and end up thrashing the brake...
@@josefarnost5606 Not saying it can't happen, but I've been doing this for years and they have never leaked. And It doesn't change the peak pressure when actually using the brakes so I would question any claim that it will damage the bladder.
@@plmn93 Just happened to me, the DOT still leaks a bit. I'll see... a bit scared though 🙄
I bled the brakes following Doddy's instructions today. All went super smooth. This how-to is bleeding good!
Good to hear Vit!
I first watched srams own how to bleed with bleeding edge. I guess my brain is to slow or smth but Doddys guide is so much better. He speaks and show you in a way that make it look easy.
GMBN are amazing with there videos and this one taught me perfectly how to bleed the all new Sram Code R brakes.
Perfect step by step instruction and will defently use GMBN for future stuff on bikes.
Thanks a lot for the help mate 😉
Thank you GMBN. I just finished doing this step by step. Perfect. Breaks work perfectly. Probably saved $150 from the shop.
FYI plain water will clean and flush DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1 brake fluids. They are not corrosive, but are reactive to paint, plastics, and other coatings. They are alcohol based, and will absorb water out of the air. The only real difference between the 3 types are their boiling point.
Thanks, that is what I needed to know. 😁
Man, that was superbly done. If university profs could teach that well, it would mean a revolution had occurred. Thanks a million.
Getting a 2020 Stumpjumper next week with this system on it. Right on time finding this video!!! Thanks Dod!
very good Doddy when you include mentioning how to responsibly dispose off the used oil, educating your viewers including me on how to keep our environement. Thumbs Up!
I just put hydraulic oil in with recycled motor oil. You maybe able to drop it off at a service station. Depends what your laws are.
If you have Shimano brakes you can use that extra hour of time that you save to actually ride a bike :D.
Haha agreed. Changed all my brakes over to Shimano. 1 cup to bleed all.
Also since Shimano uses mineral oil, which has a higher boiling point, doesn't attract water (Which dramatically reduces the boiling point), hold dissolved gas or strip your bike's paint, it doesn't need to be replaced for years. Magura, who've been using mineral oil for their brakes since they first entered the bike market probably over 40 years ago at this stage, don't even have a recommended replacement interval for their oil because it just stays working - I have a Julie on one bike that's been running the original fluid for probably a decade at this stage just feed it brake pads and adjust the reach screw in the lever every couple of years (It works loose very very slowly) and that's it.
The only things going for DOT fluid are that if it does get on your disks, spraying the whole lot with water will usually get everything back working because DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are very water soluble, while with mineral oil you pretty much have to burn it out of the pads (Or replace them) and degrease the disk and caliper (I find sanding the disk in a mix of water and washing up liquid gives great results) and it's easier to find if there are no decent bike shops around. Citroen LHM (Hydrauilc oil for their hydropneumatic suspension systems) works perfectly in Magura brakes in my experience if you're stuck, I even got a leaky set of HS33's back working once by using slightly higher viscosity fork oil (Still a mineral oil). Both Shimano and Magura will swear blind that using the oil for one in the other company's brakes will damage them, but I suspect this is more about warranty and selling their approved parts than for any genuine reason.
peglor The problem with mineral oil for brakes is exactly that it doesn’t absorb water. Which means that any water in the system will collect at the caliper and lower the boiling point of the system to that of water. In practice that is not a big issue for mtb brakes but it certainly is for cars, trucks and motorcycles.
But if you want to stop, use SRAM
You mean after you've spent an hour sorting out the inconsistent lever feel by rebleeding the factory bled brakes, right?
Cheers Doddy. Bought the SRAM bleed kit for Code/Guide R/RS. Watched your vid a few times, now bleed all my bikes with confidence and getting results as good as a shop. It does take practice, but massive reward when doing it yourself. Cheers Bud.
Thanks for a great video. Shouldn't preasurising the system be done from the calliper end? Seems a bit pointless from the lever end when any pressure just offloads by pushing a load of fluid out after taking the syringe out? I did it from the caliper end which was the only way I could get pressure in and get it nice and sharp
The best review I’ve seen for the sram brakes thank you 🙏
No mater how old the video is - I ordered the SRAM kit, followed the instructions and got it done thanks to this tutorial ;o)
thank you for this excellent video. using your guidance here I was able to bleed the brakes instead of waiting weeks for my bike shop’s next availability.
Thanks Doddy! Really pleased with the instructions and I did my brakes spot on. Thanks again
Just done this with an Epic bleed kit. A combination of this vid and epic kit instructions 👌
A great video and also gives great info on the different types of bleed valves which saved a lot of time. Would just say that when all the air is out of the tubes the job is not necessarily complete especially if you have had to change the main piston in the lever. It took 2 attempts to get the air lock out in that situation by pushing the fluid in both directions before closing off the calliper. The other key as stated is to ensure the lever is open to the max for full piston travel.
thanks- my first bleed of my SRAM DOT brakes after doing Shimano Mineral Oil for the last 6 years. cheers
I have found that this procedure results in very mushy brakes on sram code R and code RSC brakes. To get the brakes feeling good, after air is bubbled out, close up the lever port, then with the caliper still open apply pressure on the caliper syringe and hold it tight. While holding the pressure with your thumb, close the caliper bleed port, then release pressure from the syringe. Now the lever will not be mushy.
Thanks Doddy! After attempting to bleed my Level brake after watching the SRAM video, I failed miserably. Frustrated and about to take the bike to my LBS, I saw your video and decided to give it another try. While the steps are the same, I felt your explanation was more thorough and made the process much easier. I quickly realized I missed a key step in closing the plunger lever on the caliper end. The only outstanding issue I have is my torque wrench does not go below 2Nm (1.5-1.7Nm recommended) and to my knowledge Park does not make one that goes that low so I hope I gave the drain bolts enough tension as I did not want to strip them. Great content as always from GMBN!
Amazing video Doddy! Managed to do this first time with SRAM Pro brake bleed kit and brakes feel awesome
Thank you for all of these great videos! I just bled my front and rear brakes on a brand new bike and my Guide R's have firmed up like 2x!!
Just bled for the first time. DOT fluid EVERYWHERE. But got my firm brakes back so thanks! 👍🏾
Yup, same here! Cheers Doddy 👍
Thanks Doddy. I just finished bleeding my brakes for the very first 😁
Cheers mate you've made me feel confident enough to buy the service kit and try the job myself .
Glad we could help Alan & goodluck!
Doddy fantastic tech video keep them coming 👍
Perfect,... Doddy is The Man !
Looks much nicer way of doing things compared to my current avid brakes. I am looking forward to upgrading to the new system :)
Nice one. Clear and concise. Thanks mate.
Thank yall for all the videos
Great explanation, very helpful, very well produced video - thanks a lot!
I've found the best way to bleed these is to simply push the fluid back and forth between the two syringes 10 or 15 times. Forces all of the air out and leaves a perfect lever. SO easy. 3 minutes per brake.
Isn't the whole point to push new oil into the system? By pushing it back and forth all you're doing is mixing old discoloured oil and new oil into the system and contaminating everything.
Superbe tutorial, helps a lot! Cheers doddy
Perfect demonstration and explanation. Thanks
Come on Doddy what’s the pen for?
Exactly the information I was after, many thanks 😊
You're a saint! It all seemed so confusing before this video. 10 minutes start to finish. Way easier than shimano.
I have both brands, only bleed shimano till now, but by looks doing this with SRAM looks harder
How can this possibly be easier than Shimano. You can do a 30 second bleed just using a cup on Shimano to get any air out. Then if you need you can do one similar to this with syringes.
great video guys, made my day so much easier!!!
You sure make this look easy. I have fluid all over the place when I tried to bleed mine.
I’ve used the kit from epic bleed solutions a few times now and the only way it made the bleed a pain is you have to be quite careful not to pull too hard when creating the vacuum as if you pull too hard, as the seals aren’t the best they will bring in a bit of air into the syringe so it isn’t as robust a feel as the official SRAM one but with a bit of finesse you can bleed them perfectly
Superb. My brakes will be serviced beyond any reproach.
Great video Doddy very informative
Best, how to video's,very informative step by step ! Great preventative details that could cause mistakes !My brake performance is now incredibly better! Thank you
Awesome tutorial video Doddy, just bleed my code R's this vid made it easy as can be.
How are your brakes doing 🤔
Watched a few other videos today on this, none compare. No weird things that don't make sense and straight to the job.
Thanks I’ve just learned a lot from what you just said and did.
Still a great video! just bled my new set of Code RSC’s after shortening the cables, went great 😁
Nice 👍 one Doddy very detailed video . 👀
Great Video, Thank you!
I used SRAM Standard Bleed Kit with DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid. Everything went according to plan except for one thing: When I was keeping the caliper syringe vertical and pulling up on the lever syringe, the caliper syringe plunger was not moving. It is not clear to me what the cause may have been, since before I pushed the liquid into the caliper syringe, it flowed without any problems.
Had to bleed a completely new bike, breaks where terrible it was like abs never enough power. The winning tip was after getting rid of the bubbles getting as much fluid into the system as possible. Now they are fantastic. It is a completely different experience going downhill.
I don't even have SRAM brakes but I like videos of doddy!
To give you a tip, it doesn't have to be this complicated.
Simply connect the oil-filled syringe to the lever and open the caliper slightly and push the oil from the lever side to the syringe side.
However, we need an oil drain bowl
would be so much easier with a bleeding edge port on the lever side also, everyone that has done this knows that fluid pours out of the lever when you unscrew the syringe but no one ever shows that on camera.
Exactly!
Which is why I remove in the reverse order!
Very Good. More detail than the Sram tuturial.
Thanks for the tips 👌
Nice and clear and logical. Thanks.
Thank you, perfect tutorial 😊
Thank you for this!
you make it look so easy!
Late on commenting, but great video! Gives me some confidence on trying this.. have Always been a Shimano holdout, but this makes it look manageable
Shimano brakes are far more reliable and long lasting than Sram. Shimano's use mineral oil and don't suffer all the issues of Sram and their DOT fluid. Shimano brakes are also far easier and faster to bleed.
Sram has serious quality issues. I'm a shop mechanic. My shop has recalled, warrantied and replaced hundreds of Sram levers and entire brake assemblies in the last several years. Sram has had the same quality and DOT fluid related issues they've had for several years. They've never solved their problems. Sram doesn't take quality control seriously. Its more than obvious. I wouldn't recommend anything they sell as a result.
I forgot to mention, I'm a career machinist and mechanical inspector. Ive built things that fly in space, that humans rely upon. Ive built surgeon's instruments as well as lots of other pricey machinery. I believe I qualify as a quality expert.
Cyclists are human too!! The bike industry's marketing BS can't fool me! The lack of decent quality control in the bike industry concerns me and it ashames those who know better.
@@rollinrat4850 no one arguing this.. with 40 years of bike mechanicing under my belt, couldn’t agree more. But when you bike you bought has sram, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do, lol
@@ashevillescarborough That's why I mentioned the Sram Pro bleed kit elsewhere. It makes a pain in the ass procedure a little less painful. I can use cheaper syringes for mineral oil bleeds and the seals don't go bad. DOT fluid sure is nasty stuff, but Hope, Hayes and Formula seem to make decent brakes!
I just find it hard to accept brakes not to mention anything from a company that's never made hydro brakes very well. Even in the best circumstances, Sram doesn't work really well for more than a few short years before the piston seals get sticky and pads start rubbing constantly. I see brand new Srams with sticky pistons! We've recalled and warrantied Guide and Level brake levers for all the 6 years I've been wrenching in a shop and my old Avid Juicies suffered similar problems. They've never fixed these quality issues! My company, a large chain of shops in Wackofornia has replaced THOUSANDS of these levers. Haha! Its job security!
Im still using a set of ten year old XT brakes and they still work great, but the levers leak very slightly.
I'm on a campaign to try and help consumers not make the mistake in buying Sram in the first place. Overpriced for very poor quality control kind of piss me off. These are brakes we're talking about. A company that doesn't take brake quality nor their consumers well being seriously doesn't deserve any business at all in my opinion. But I'm sure I'm just preachin' to the choir in your case!
Followed this when upgrading LevelT to Code R on my Levo. Codes working great. Good modulation and can lock either wheel at will. Only problem is the bite point. Initially it was poor on both brakes (probably result of the Epic bleed block width). I managed to get the rear good by removing the wheel and operating the brake carefully to close up the pads. The same trick on the front improved them but the bite point front & rear are annoyingly different. Any tips.
Cheers Doddy💚
Got some squishy feeling guides, so will have to give this a go shortly. Is it worth letting the pistons free up a little whilst the pads are out (mine seem to come out one side dominanat)?
Great video thank you! Question while I got the rear caliper working just fine I still can’t get the front one to engage. In fact, when I go through the bleeding process, I don’t even get any bubbles which is strange. Any suggestions?
Great tutorial! One previous tip I was shown online was to help remove as much air from the fluid as possible.
You fill the syringes as shown here, but then use the clamps on the hose to seal them. After that you try and pull (decently hard, but be careful not to pull so hard you suck air through the rubber seal) the syringe handle outwards. If there are any micro bubbles, they will get way bigger due to vacuum, and you can flick them to the top. Do that until they are all at the top, and continue on.
Thank you for this video.
Doddy, iv got some formula brakes, would this be a similar procedure to bleed them, or slightly different?! cheers
Great video, Thanks. I have a question though. What about the older models that you mention, that don't have the "edge" tech? How do you remove the syringe and get the plug back in without getting air in the system?
first of all, great channel. doddy u're awesome. about the bleeding: i got myself an avid kit for my sram guide rs breaks (2017 model) but noticed that the the fitting (golden) of the syringe is threated and therefore different from the syringe fitting you are using in your clip. does it also work with the threated syringe for the sram models after 2015? would like to avoid opening the packaging in terms of a possible exchange...
I really like this video. I wonder what sort of watch you have on your arm. I think it's very cool.
Thanks for the DIY man! My brother just spent 100$ and 3 weeks of bike in the shop for this and I did it in 30 mins front and rear on my bike. If it weren't for my chonkin good doggo tipping over my bottle of dot 3 halfway through, it would have been a flawless victory!
Great video and thanks!! I'm just wondering why Sram brakes are not bled from the bottom to the top to force the air out?
Great video, thank you. How do you clean and prepare the syringes for the next bleed though? Do you have to run isopropyl alcohol through them or just get all the oil you can out of them by pressing the syringe and just get the new oils in on the next run? Maybe a little cross contamination doesn't hurt that much on the left over oil?
Yes, I'd recommend flushing syringe & tubes with alcohol for 2 reasons. (1) alcohol is volatile and will easily and completely disappear over a short time. And (2) DOT fluid is caustic, so you don't want it contaminating & possible spreading over your stored service equipment.
Not the end of the world if you store minimal DOT fluid in your service equipment. But it is hydrophilic (attracts water) and it is NOT volatile (like alcohol is) so, after a year, the DOT residue will still be there, it'll now be 'wet' and will grow in volume. Again, not a huge deal but if you start next year's flush with a wet residue of last year's DOT fluid, just make sure to do a few quick rinses of your 'contaminated' syringe & tubes with the SMALLEST amount of new, dry, DOT fluid.
If, after sitting a year, the old residue is maybe 50%(?) water, after the first rinse, the new residue might only be 10% water. Then only 1% after 2nd rinse. Maybe 0.1% water after 2nd rinse.
Well done.Follow that.
I like the pen behind the ear most :-)
Is it okay to use silencer spray on disc brake pads? I have some disc brake silencer spray from Swissstop. What are the pros and cons with that product?
I got the rockshox bleed kit for the dropper, I hope that works
How does the fluid blacken in a closed system? Maybe it's the o-rings in the caliper or lever? Bled my Guide RS for the first time after 2 seasons and 2 sets of pads and the fluid was dark.
Knowing you are an alltime styling icon, is the pen on the ear a new fashion trend?
great vid like always just one question cause no one seems to be specific about the measurement on the lever is it to the acual tip of lever meaning the very tip of the bent end part or is it to the flat part of the end of the lever please lmk if u get chance.. sorry if its dumb question but the measurements are A LOT diff ......!!!!
I take it that you then just return the the contact and lever reach adjustment back to the original settings?
I like how you run the rear brake on the left side... The only way to go
Is it problematic if you only do the last step (bleed the lever) if you don’t have the right seringue for the caliper. Will the brake feel less spongy by doing this waiting for the right tool ?
I'm really surprised you don't de-gas the new dot fluid before you push it through. I was taught by Sram racing to pull all of the bubbles out of the syringes and line before bleeding it, then pressurizing the system before sealing it up.
is it ok to use %99.9 ipa on levers and calipers? Should i mix it with water to have %70-75 ipa?
Great video tutorial!!
I found though that removing the syringes in the reverse order is better.
Removing the lever end last always ended up with leakage & losing the pressure when unscrewing the nozzle.
If you remove the lever end first and put in the lock screw,. Then when you go to the calliper end, you can pressurise with the syringe, then close off the screw nozzle to maintain the pressure. Then unplug the nozzle & tighten the bolt. No mess, better pressure retention.
Totally agree. Don't know why this video doesn't do it this way...??
Btw there's a couple other things that are helpful that do not follow the Sram instructions - one is to dial the contact point adjustment to beyond halfway in the "In" direction. Sram instructs us to dial the adjustment all the way in the Out direction. This doesn't allow you any adjustment to firm up the lever. It's highly ineffective! Another is to use a thinner bleed block, to allow more fluid into the system...
Sram seems to be intent on doing whatever possible to input the smallest amount of fluid, i.e. create the least amount of pressure, but that is what so many people complain about...
Andy G - that sounds like a great idea. I agree that removing the lever syringe first would make sense since, when you lose fluid from the lever, you can add it back if pressurizing from the caliper and you won't lose a drop due to the push on/pull off design of the bleeding edge adapter. I have more free stroke / lever pull required before the brakes engage and I keep thinking it's due to losing fluid during that last step removing the syringe from the caliper.
Quick question - are you just reversing the entire process (i.e. starting the bleed from the caliper end to the lever end), or are you doing everything the same as in the video, but instead of pressurizing at the level end, you pressurize at the caliper end? There's the step where you squeeze and release the brake lever - where does that fit into the process you described?
@@ruknight4ever I follow the video up until the pressure/disconnect step. I squeeze the lever before the final pressure and disconnect.
Wonder how you guys clean the bleeding tool? I just wiped the outside of the tools by isopropyl alcohol. However I didn’t clean the inside of the syringe and the pipe.
I shortened my Sram Force hydro brake hoses and did the bleed and noticed a ton of what I think is dot compatible grease in the fluid that came from the factory bleed. I tried to flush alot of it out but there is still gonna be some in there. I guess that must be the reason for the dot compatible grease.?
really nice , wanted to replace my tektro brakes for Sram ones.
Was afraid of bleeding, not anymore !
Get Shimano if you haven't yet. Way easier to bleed and Shimano is a much higher quality. Sram kind of sucks!
RollinRat that’s crazy, SRAM is just as good as shimano, it’s all preference. I like SRAM axs over the shimano but some people like shimano. I have both break systems, on my madones I have the RED and on my trek supercaliper it has Shimano XT, both work just fine. I would of prefer SRAM break system on both so I wouldn’t have to have 2 different bleed systems. DOT vs Mineral. And all 3 of my bikes have SRAM AXS 12speed
marioslrzn This is my experience with Sram. Quality and QC must be suspect! What else can it be? I've been dealing with the same Sram recalled brakes for 5 years. My 2 shops alone have recalled hundreds of Guides and Levels in this time. My company, a large chain of shops in N. California have recalled thousands. Sram and Avid have always had tedious and finicky bleed procedures. Their brakes have always suffered issues from DOT fluid and seal issues over the long run. They just don't last for long. Shimano brakes by comparison last at least twice as long and suffer NO consistent recalls and bleed in 1/2 the time.
Perfectly bled and proper functioning Sram do have the most refined feel at the lever, but functionally there's no difference. Reliability wise there is no comparison.
I'm a former mechanical inspector and machinist. Ive built high reliability hardware all my career. I recognize actual quality. Sram isn't it.
Hi, can you use other brands of brake fluids with the same DOT rating?