Great video for us using SRAM, honestly I just wish @sram would also do a type of bleeding edge in the level, that would really tidy things up and would stop leaks when compresing the system
You can do the same with SRAM brakes, as long as you get all air out, the pressuring part is nonsense anyway if you stroke the lever a couple of time while pushing fluid from the bottom (caliper) you'll probably achieve faster and better results, I do...
If the fluid is dirty once you push the old fluid out, best to stop, get rid of the old fluid, clean the syringes and start with clean fluid and syringes in both.
As ive bled SRAM brakes with contact adjustment alot, i personally think the SRAM method is absolute trash and bleeding should be as done here. this way you can dial your lever throw shorter and you get much more power/bite feel in the pads if everything is done properly and nothing is contaminated. IMHO i think SRAM messed up the bleed video, and were too proud to admit the mistake and just let it sit there... I can see no other logical reason for rotating the contact point the way they did. If you bleed brakes the SRAM way, you cant dial in your brakes to have a shorter lever throw. With this method, you can :) With that said, dont push from the caliper up to the lever if your replacing liquids.. you want to push from the lever out the caliper so you dont drag all the contaminants sitting in your caliper up through your hoses and lever reservoair
what I do differently to get some pressure into the system is, that I close the system on the lever first, put some pressure down at the caliper and close the screw with the syringe. trust me guys, the brake will feel much snappier.
follow up question -- do you completely remove the lever syringe and turn in the screw before adding pressure at the caliper? seems like that is what I'd do if I wanted to get a bit more pressure in there. Then while slightly pressurized at the caliper, close the bleeding edge port and remove?
Hack: how to store Dot fluid or other "hydrosensitive" things. Use ziplock bags and add small silica gel packages (from electric, shoe packages etc. = Free)
I seem to be in the minority here but I really like the SRAM bleeding edge system. It’s easier (but messier) to bleed my hope brakes but I get much better consistent results bleeding the SRAM brakes.
Hi Owen great video. However the preping of the syring and pulling of the syringe is Not actually drawing air out of the fluid itself. You're not changing the state of the DOT fluid especial at room temperature. The air that looks like is coming from the fluid is actually air that is find its way through the seals of syring lever/plunger. The only way to extract air or water from the DOT oil is to change its state by heat. Just like water, you add heat, water boils, and turns into water molecules/vapor. Just thought you should know.
Why do so many bleed tutorials instruct you to pump the syringes up and down 'to remove air'? If it isn't removing air, does this technique have some kind of other benefit?
The Contact Adjust dial is supposed to be wound in the opposite direction to the arrow. Why not pull the vacuum at the end on the lever too after closing off the bleeding edge port? Sram also advise not to push from the caliper incase the pressure dislodges the bleeding edge fitting.
@@statom985 It’s in the Code Bleed Manual For levers with Contact Point Adjustment: Rotate the Contact Point Adjustment dial in the opposite direction of the arrow until it stops. Do not push brake fluid into the caliper with the caliper syringe. Excessive fluid pressure can cause the Bleeding Edge syringe tool to dislodge from the caliper. Use the lever syringe to move fluid through the system. Hold the syringe at the lever vertically. Firmly pull on the plunger to create a vacuum, then compress the plunger to pressurize the system. Repeat this process several times or until only a small amount of bubbles exit the system.
I was also thinking the same, however, after bleeding my brake following the sram advice, I realized there was no way to shrink the contact point anymore (because it was bled with the contact dial all the way in). It feels like to get most adjustability after the bleed, maybe best to have the contact dial at the mid point ? Thoughts ?
I spent hours trying to figure out why I couldn't bleed my rear brake, then discovered that the diaphragm inside the lever tray had deformed preventing fluid from passing through. I hope this suggestion will help if the same thing happens to anyone.
I rode SH for 20 years, I wanted to try something different, so I tried Sram Code. In fact, its awesome brake. I really dont like SHs lever like point differences. With right tools is Sram bleed pretty easy and allways succesfull. SH often lets dome air in system. They say: Bubbles in mineral oil allways flows up. Not true. Moving fluid up and down is much better idea.
Fill the lever syringe with fluid. A few ml in the caliper syringe. Push everything through from the lever syringe to caliper. Disconnect both and dispose of fluid. Refill syringes, 3/4 full on lever, 1/4 on caliper. Complete bleed as normal
@@puka6043 Sram advises to push and pull from the lever. They say this because pushing from the caliper can disconnect the bleeding edge from the pressure. But it’s probably better to at least push out the dirty/old fluid from the caliper instead of pushing all the shit up to your master cylinder. Initially you’re only getting new fluid in the system so doesn’t matter if you’re going the opposite way to which air would travel. Shimano says to push up from the caliper but how black their fluid gets I’d rather drain it from the caliper first. Then push up with clean fluid.
dot oil from company's marketing it for sram breaks price it about 5 pound per 120ml when you can go to any local halfords or simlar and buy an entire liter for about 8 pound which will outlast your bike
Buying brake fluid in bulk means all that unused fluid is sitting around in your garage, slowly absorbing water. This guarantees you will be putting contaminated fluid into your brake system in less than three years. This is a mistake.
@@jasminelindros8923 Is it a significant amount of water though? Have you tried it? I bought automative DOT oil and the container looks reasonable. I kept the soft plastic peel-away lid and put it back underneath the cap, put some silica packets in a plastic bag and wrapped it around the container and then another bag over that.
Didn’t work for me… there must be a ton of pressure in the line at the brake lever because when I pull the screw to the syringe out, it comes out spilling over and when I put the screw back in the brake lever still collapses to the bar.??? What am I doing wrong?
Curious if you ever figured this out! My thought would be either 1) you have a leak in your system somewhere or 2) a lot more fluid is coming out than should or 3) you don't have anything blocking your pistons when you compress lever?
Did you press the brake lever down while pushing fluid in from the caliper, gradually releasing the brake lever as you feel the system filling up? I think if you only fill while the brake lever is released, then you can have the situation that you describe. Also, I don't believe there will be any significant pressure in the lines, as otherwise it would spurt out when you open a port or remove a syringe etc, rather than just dribble out.
I avoid SRAM brakes on all by bikes - I like the feel of Shimano brakes, the power and reliability. All bleeding them is dead easy. The SRAM process is easy once you know how to do it … but isn’t everything? It’s a hassle.
Any good dot fluid will work , but correct version . I use Motorex , Valvoline or Castrol . They also give good results . A friend who is a motorcycle technician found this during a sponsored rider race preparation , preliminary test with the Mondraker .
For all the Shimano guys here to hate on Sram brakes. How about that Philips head screwdriver knob on those Shimano brakes that doesn’t do anything? - Jeff Cayley - 2020
I also believe that when you are cycling the syringes back and forth to vacuum pull air out, you are pulling air past the syringe plungers, which you’re mistaking for air bubbles in the lines
Why… why why why would you use corrosive oil neer (carbon) bike parts and why so much work to bleed??? I’d say shimano has the better system and I’ve had both…🤷
What a pain in the ass. Couldve just put a normal bleed port at the caliper but they have to make their own special connector to make you buy extra stuff. Super lame.
@appelflapdrol no I think avid juicy 3 are always leaking in some sort of way not sure if dot fluid causes more air to get in system more easily I just prefer mineral fluid brake systems less hassle
What is the longest time you've gone without bleeding your brakes? Did it cost you a whole new system? Let us know in the comments! 👇
Great video for us using SRAM, honestly I just wish @sram would also do a type of bleeding edge in the level, that would really tidy things up and would stop leaks when compresing the system
2 years lol
I like the Shimano system with their bucket system at the lever. Slightly easier to work with.
You can do the same with SRAM brakes, as long as you get all air out, the pressuring part is nonsense anyway if you stroke the lever a couple of time while pushing fluid from the bottom (caliper) you'll probably achieve faster and better results, I do...
Not to mention they use non-toxic mineral oil instead of that DOT crap
the same dot crap that millions of cars use ?@@bchearne
Same... shimano is so much easier and cleaner.
@@marvinator79 love the Shimano brake bucket on lever. Absolutely much easier to work with
If the fluid is dirty once you push the old fluid out, best to stop, get rid of the old fluid, clean the syringes and start with clean fluid and syringes in both.
In the SRAM brake bleed video they say to turn the contact adjust in the opposite way, away from the arrow!
As ive bled SRAM brakes with contact adjustment alot, i personally think the SRAM method is absolute trash and bleeding should be as done here. this way you can dial your lever throw shorter and you get much more power/bite feel in the pads if everything is done properly and nothing is contaminated. IMHO i think SRAM messed up the bleed video, and were too proud to admit the mistake and just let it sit there... I can see no other logical reason for rotating the contact point the way they did. If you bleed brakes the SRAM way, you cant dial in your brakes to have a shorter lever throw. With this method, you can :) With that said, dont push from the caliper up to the lever if your replacing liquids.. you want to push from the lever out the caliper so you dont drag all the contaminants sitting in your caliper up through your hoses and lever reservoair
I came to the same conclusion after following SRAM advice and realizing I couldn’t dial in my lever throw shorter ! :(
what I do differently to get some pressure into the system is, that I close the system on the lever first, put some pressure down at the caliper and close the screw with the syringe. trust me guys, the brake will feel much snappier.
So basically its the same, but when you finish the lever you open the caliper syringe once more to add some pressure.
@@statom985 Yes
Best Tipp ever! Thanks mate! Finally sram brakes are useable 👍👌
follow up question -- do you completely remove the lever syringe and turn in the screw before adding pressure at the caliper? seems like that is what I'd do if I wanted to get a bit more pressure in there. Then while slightly pressurized at the caliper, close the bleeding edge port and remove?
@@parkerhegstrom2265 exactly this way
Hack: how to store Dot fluid or other "hydrosensitive" things. Use ziplock bags and add small silica gel packages (from electric, shoe packages etc. = Free)
I seem to be in the minority here but I really like the SRAM bleeding edge system. It’s easier (but messier) to bleed my hope brakes but I get much better consistent results bleeding the SRAM brakes.
I personally think flushing, refilling, and bleeding the brakes on a car is easier than these fiddly systems.
Agreed, and the tech is pretty much standard across all automobiles for the most part.
Hi Owen great video. However the preping of the syring and pulling of the syringe is Not actually drawing air out of the fluid itself. You're not changing the state of the DOT fluid especial at room temperature. The air that looks like is coming from the fluid is actually air that is find its way through the seals of syring lever/plunger. The only way to extract air or water from the DOT oil is to change its state by heat. Just like water, you add heat, water boils, and turns into water molecules/vapor.
Just thought you should know.
Why do so many bleed tutorials instruct you to pump the syringes up and down 'to remove air'? If it isn't removing air, does this technique have some kind of other benefit?
On the DB8 and codes RSC I just force feed a lot of liquid (full syringe) from the caliper, the SRAM push pull procedure is a friggin nightmare 😅
I do this on my Shimano brake too and you get perfect results there
The Contact Adjust dial is supposed to be wound in the opposite direction to the arrow.
Why not pull the vacuum at the end on the lever too after closing off the bleeding edge port?
Sram also advise not to push from the caliper incase the pressure dislodges the bleeding edge fitting.
I was thinking the same!
can you link this sram advise ? im curios
@@statom985 It’s in the Code Bleed Manual
For levers with Contact Point Adjustment:
Rotate the Contact Point Adjustment dial in the opposite direction of the arrow until it stops.
Do not push brake fluid into the caliper with the caliper syringe. Excessive fluid pressure can cause the Bleeding Edge syringe tool to dislodge from the caliper.
Use the lever syringe to move fluid through the system.
Hold the syringe at the lever vertically. Firmly pull on the plunger to create a vacuum, then compress the plunger to pressurize the system. Repeat this process several times or until only a small amount of bubbles exit the system.
@@Justin-ny6un I can confirm from personal experience that yes the bleeding edge tool can dislodge if you push too hard from the caliper side haha
I was also thinking the same, however, after bleeding my brake following the sram advice, I realized there was no way to shrink the contact point anymore (because it was bled with the contact dial all the way in). It feels like to get most adjustability after the bleed, maybe best to have the contact dial at the mid point ? Thoughts ?
I spent hours trying to figure out why I couldn't bleed my rear brake, then discovered that the diaphragm inside the lever tray had deformed preventing fluid from passing through. I hope this suggestion will help if the same thing happens to anyone.
I rode SH for 20 years, I wanted to try something different, so I tried Sram Code. In fact, its awesome brake. I really dont like SHs lever like point differences. With right tools is Sram bleed pretty easy and allways succesfull. SH often lets dome air in system. They say: Bubbles in mineral oil allways flows up. Not true. Moving fluid up and down is much better idea.
I've been long waiting for this video! Thanks!
And if i want to fill the circuit with new fluid? I never understood the logic in mixin the old with the fresh oil...
Fill the lever syringe with fluid. A few ml in the caliper syringe. Push everything through from the lever syringe to caliper. Disconnect both and dispose of fluid.
Refill syringes, 3/4 full on lever, 1/4 on caliper. Complete bleed as normal
@@Justin-ny6unisn't it better to push bubbles from caliper to the lever?
@@puka6043 Sram advises to push and pull from the lever. They say this because pushing from the caliper can disconnect the bleeding edge from the pressure.
But it’s probably better to at least push out the dirty/old fluid from the caliper instead of pushing all the shit up to your master cylinder.
Initially you’re only getting new fluid in the system so doesn’t matter if you’re going the opposite way to which air would travel.
Shimano says to push up from the caliper but how black their fluid gets I’d rather drain it from the caliper first. Then push up with clean fluid.
Exactly my thoughts!
dot oil from company's marketing it for sram breaks price it about 5 pound per 120ml when you can go to any local halfords or simlar and buy an entire liter for about 8 pound which will outlast your bike
Buying brake fluid in bulk means all that unused fluid is sitting around in your garage, slowly absorbing water. This guarantees you will be putting contaminated fluid into your brake system in less than three years. This is a mistake.
@@jasminelindros8923 Is it a significant amount of water though? Have you tried it? I bought automative DOT oil and the container looks reasonable. I kept the soft plastic peel-away lid and put it back underneath the cap, put some silica packets in a plastic bag and wrapped it around the container and then another bag over that.
You can literally see the bubbles just coming past the seal on the syringe.
Was hoping to see some pro mechanic tips
I prefer Shimano. DOT fluid and SRAMs bleeding method is a real pain.
So where did the old oil go?
👌great tuitional video, would this be the same procedure with sram db8 mineral oil?👍
Yeah
Didn’t work for me… there must be a ton of pressure in the line at the brake lever because when I pull the screw to the syringe out, it comes out spilling over and when I put the screw back in the brake lever still collapses to the bar.??? What am I doing wrong?
Curious if you ever figured this out! My thought would be either 1) you have a leak in your system somewhere or 2) a lot more fluid is coming out than should or 3) you don't have anything blocking your pistons when you compress lever?
Did you press the brake lever down while pushing fluid in from the caliper, gradually releasing the brake lever as you feel the system filling up? I think if you only fill while the brake lever is released, then you can have the situation that you describe.
Also, I don't believe there will be any significant pressure in the lines, as otherwise it would spurt out when you open a port or remove a syringe etc, rather than just dribble out.
I did the bleeding but the levers are really hard please help
Could you do same for Shimano?
Yes, you can, but i don't see much sense in that. Use one syringe and funnel.
de cuantos pistones son esos ?
I avoid SRAM brakes on all by bikes - I like the feel of Shimano brakes, the power and reliability.
All bleeding them is dead easy.
The SRAM process is easy once you know how to do it … but isn’t everything? It’s a hassle.
how about leaking problem with shimano brakes ? or you were lucky ?
Any good dot fluid will work , but correct version . I use Motorex , Valvoline or Castrol . They also give good results . A friend who is a motorcycle technician found this during a sponsored rider race preparation , preliminary test with the Mondraker .
Tks👍👍👍
Glad I use shimano.
O'Hara Branch
Kshlerin Well
Barrows Extensions
Never listening to this guy again. Fluid all over my garage
Shimano is so easy to bleed you dont need a video 😀
I have to agree, way simpler
Breitenberg Vista
For all the Shimano guys here to hate on Sram brakes.
How about that Philips head screwdriver knob on those Shimano brakes that doesn’t do anything? - Jeff Cayley - 2020
Kerluke Center
Verner Shores
when you attached the bleed syringes, there was a ton of air in the clear hose, then you pumped that air into the system!!!!>>>????!!!
There will be air in the syringes yes, but if you pump vertically, the air rises to the top and the fluid is what will enter the brake system 👍
I also believe that when you are cycling the syringes back and forth to vacuum pull air out, you are pulling air past the syringe plungers, which you’re mistaking for air bubbles in the lines
Raphaelle Shoals
Makenna Lodge
Miller Crossing
Braun Curve
Walker Turnpike
I know how hydraulics work I watched Evil Dead, eh
I also worked on excavation equipment, maybe that's why 😂
Kimberly Highway
This looks like a chore I still dont wanna learn lol
Boyle Fork
Destiney Forge
Tromp Islands
Will Valleys
Keeling Courts
Zemlak Hills
Ryan Groves
Gianni Path
Turner Mountains
Tina Turnpike
Jillian Dam
Brody Loop
Robbie Orchard
Weimann Port
Willms Curve
Ward Ranch
Michaela Course
Aliyah Cove
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Why… why why why would you use corrosive oil neer (carbon) bike parts and why so much work to bleed??? I’d say shimano has the better system and I’ve had both…🤷
Seamus Drive
Kale Fords
Dietrich Village
Shimano. Easy and cheap
Monty Fords
Ezra Key
Abe Point
What a pain in the ass. Couldve just put a normal bleed port at the caliper but they have to make their own special connector to make you buy extra stuff. Super lame.
Dot fluid is so unreliable i had nightmare with avid juicy 3 always go spongy within weeks total rubbish
Did you do the repair yourself ? Dot fluid has a shelf life because it can mix with water, did you do a total flush ?
@appelflapdrol no I think avid juicy 3 are always leaking in some sort of way not sure if dot fluid causes more air to get in system more easily I just prefer mineral fluid brake systems less hassle
all cars use dot fluid so how can dot be unreliable ?
Schaden Pines
Gaylord Tunnel
I hate sram brakes with a passion
what a nerd
Shimano brakes any day. Doing all this is a total ball ache.