This video shows you how to check that your VW Fuel Pump is performing correctly. Always be safe when working around Fuel. This video is intended as entertainment only.
My fuel pump went out while in the jungle. In the emergency we took a gas can and put in up on the luggage rack on top and ran the gas line to the carb. It was risky but we had no choice. No cell phones back then. No road service either. Luckily there was not a fire.
Thanks for the video. Last time I drove my 69 Beetle it was stalling like crazy and I had to keep a high rev. the entire way home to keep from stalling-so throwing into neutral with one foot on the gas a brake. My wife said she remembered this happening decades ago and it was the fuel pump. Does that sound like it could be a possible symptom. Thanks.
Great video. My fuel pump died and leaked fuel into the engine and blow the push rod washers and I ended up with no oil. Luckily the engine survived but could have been a nasty fire so great you mentioned about smelling the dip stick for fuel.
This happened to me last night. Thankfully the car was sitting on the drive. Thought it was a catastrophic end to my beetle, but no. It's a $20 part :D
I've been working on an engine it was really hard at starting say day not kidding watched you video went outside checked out the rod on fuel pump and it was barely touching replaced and it fired up thanks very handy
I have 71 Super that turns over but won't catch, so I tried what you reccommended and sure enough only a couple of drops came out of the hose, I had my wife pump the peddle and try to start the car but got nothing, so I guess my problem is in the front. My fuel filter is in the front, what should I check next? Thanks
The side mounted mechanical fuel pumps will easily dump fuel into the crankcase when that particular seal fails as well. Not that, that applies to this motor at all.
I had no fuel coming through the hose from the tank to the pump. I used the 1/8" pin attachment on my Intex kayak's two-way air pump. After a couple pumps I heard the air bubbling in the fuel tank and we were back in business. I should probably add a fuel filter to the pump inlet line...
That’s a clever way to unblock the line! A filter would be a good idea, and next time you pull the tank out, replace the little fuel screen ‘sock’ that sits at the bottom of the tank. They are often perished, letting everything down the fuel line.
It really depends on what fuel pump you need as the rods are different lengths to the pump kits depending on if the car has a generator or an alternator fitted, usually the rod needs to be the correct length and packed with grease otherwise you'll get problems.
Great point, well made. There are different push rods and pumps depending on your setup. Packing the pump drive arm with wheel bearing grease is essential.
HI, my problem is ran the car out of gas put 3 gallons in and tried to restart the car and nothing. fuel is getting to the pump but very little is being pumped to the car. Pulled the fuel line to carb had wife start the motor for 10 seconds and got may be 1-2 teaspoons of gas? Any ideas?
So, i had this big puddle of oil, and when i touched it, had a petrol smell. The puddle was towards the driver side. The dipstick was definitley smelling like oil with petrol, and the level had raised above the 2nd marker line. So, now im scared to even start the car. Your video is confirming that my gas pump is faulty. But i was unclear if I replace the entire unit, or simply take it apart and install new gasket seals???? Any advice/help much appreciated (1972 karmann ghia)
Hi there, new sealed unit is a cheaper way to go, and easier to replace. Here in NZ a sealer fuel pump is $40-70 depending on you’re engine type. A rebuild kit for an existing one costs over $100! And then you’ve got to rebuild it too :) Chuck a new fuel pump on, with new gaskets, & drain the oil & replace it before starting it up! You’ll have to drain it cold, any more hot running with petrol in the oil can cause great damage. Let it drain for an hour or so, cap off, so that any petrol left can evaporate out of the engine. You should be good to go after that!
Hello! Hope all is well! Wonderful video ,,keep up the good work! I got a question .. I notice you dont have a fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carburetor.. may i ask why? .. also where do you have your fuel filter? ... and your reasons for your setup .. thanks! :)
Of course filters are required in a car. All I’m saying is that it is not vital for the car to run. For all you know he could’ve just rebuilt that engine or just didn’t want to spend the money to get a fuel filter. If something is not essential you will find that most people won’t buy it. However he could’ve had a fuel filter, just closer to the firewall which means we couldn’t see it from the video. That’s where my fuel filter is. But if someone were to not have a fuel filter, the engine would most likely still run unless the fuel is contaminated, and that shouldn’t happen because I trust you typically get your fuel from a big company and not some knock off one. And fuel filters won’t make gas “100 percent clean” so maybe you should say things you actually know before spreading information that could be and probably is false. I get that you want to be right, because so do I. But in this case I’m right because you are saying things you don’t know. Nobody likes a smart ass, and that’s what you are acting like. So either shut the hell up, or act mature. “:)”
In my case, the dipstick was smelling of gasoline, but the gas pump was not the culprit. The main issue was that the car would not start when engine was cold. Apparently, the needle in the carb floater was too short. My mechanic changed it to a longer one and problem solved. Not sure how it solved the problem of the gas leaking into the oil. Would you have an explanation? Thanks.
I guess it probably not, only way of having gas inside the oil pan is via a fuel pump leak ir excess gas passing thru the piston rings to the carter after a long time of sitting parked.
So my dipstick smells of gasoline. It won’t start and I was suspecting it was the fuel pump. Does this mean my engine is shot or can it be saved? If so, how do I save it with fuel in the engine, assuming there is? Thank you
Follow up: Fuel pump took a dump as a result of running of gas...replaced pump, fuel filter, and lines... started it up and it ran like CRAP pulled the top of the carb of and all the jets were plugged with all the carp in the tank....cleaned them out... ran good then. So, running out of gas cost me a money, aggravation not to mention all the walking I did. So, watch you fuel gauge and do not say I can make it!
That’s good advice! If there’s gunk in your tank and you suck it through to the carb, it’s no fun. Had the same thing happen to me in a Kombi when I was 19. Cost me a whole day of mucking around! Haha
Sounds like it could be a wiring issue if the starter is cutting in and out. Could be the starter getting worn. Also check that the engine isn’t over advance, which can cause it to ‘bog down’ on the starter sometimes. Cheers.
Or you have a sticking push rod when the plastic stand for the fuel pump is too tight when it gets hot, see videos on sanding the stand so it does not stick in the engine mounting hole!
Yep this can be issue, although I haven’t struck it myself. Best to check the fitment of the rod in the stand during assembly, so it never happens. But I should’ve mentioned it, spot on! Thanks for commenting!
Hi. So, new fuel pump is in. But i think this pump is pumping alotta fuel. The fuel filter is full capacity almost. What next mate? Engine has fast idle, then when i release from 1st gear, it quickly wants to die, and if i pump it with gas pedal, the idle over accelerates again....hmmm
Hi, did you make sure that the lever in the base of the fuel pump is at the same height as the old one? I.e were the parts matched up like for like? Also, where is the fuel filter. When your float chamber in the carb is at the correct level, the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply, so it’s unlikely that the fuel pump is causing a fast idle. Have you touched the carb adjustments and would that be causing it to run fast?
VW Classic Fix hi. The lever on the previous pump was way up inside. The lever on this new pump sticks out a bit, required a bit of force to bolt on. And i didnt touch carb settings at all, only lossened the carb a bit to remove the old pump and replace...
I’m afraid they’ve sold you the incorrect pump. You’ll need one that has the same lever height, or you’ll need to buy a shorter fuel pump push rod, so you don’t cause wear to the distributor drive shaft, and the fuel pump will be under great strain at the moment. Hope this helps mate.
There is a 100mm push rod, and a 108mm push rod. Remove fuel pump and pull push rod out of the centre of the fuel pump stand. Place a new 100mm push rod in and away you go, providing there’s no damage to the fuel pump from the strain of having the larger push rod actuating it. Cheers
Don’t expect much better than last season with McFred as our midfield YET AGAIN!! Be lucky to get in the top 6 let alone a trophy!! No longer the biggest club in the world anymore! Not competing with the best team’s and not in all the biggest competitions
![ความรักไม่ได้น่ากลัวขนาดนั้น (TRUST ME) - LYKN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9np-lAtCRpQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thankyou for this vid awesome! My dip stick is smelling of petrol! And you've given me the confidence to replace! Cheers from Rich in the UK!
My fuel pump went out while in the jungle. In the emergency we took a gas can and put in up on the luggage rack on top and ran the gas line to the carb. It was risky but we had no choice. No cell phones back then. No road service either. Luckily there was not a fire.
Thank you for helping us to determine and troubleshoot our VW fuel pump. You are great!
Thanks mate, I’m glad the videos help 🙂
This is a great video, really appreciate the lighting and video quality helps a lot to see what’s going on
Just been through this process, nice explanation, thanks!
+Martin Harris Thanks Martin! Glad my videos are helping people!
Thanks for the video. Last time I drove my 69 Beetle it was stalling like crazy and I had to keep a high rev. the entire way home to keep from stalling-so throwing into neutral with one foot on the gas a brake. My wife said she remembered this happening decades ago and it was the fuel pump. Does that sound like it could be a possible symptom. Thanks.
Great video. My fuel pump died and leaked fuel into the engine and blow the push rod washers and I ended up with no oil. Luckily the engine survived but could have been a nasty fire so great you mentioned about smelling the dip stick for fuel.
This happened to me last night. Thankfully the car was sitting on the drive. Thought it was a catastrophic end to my beetle, but no. It's a $20 part :D
Always pays to regularly check if your oil smells of fuel 👍 I’m glad it was just a $20 fix!!
Great video!!!
I've been working on an engine it was really hard at starting say day not kidding watched you video went outside checked out the rod on fuel pump and it was barely touching replaced and it fired up thanks very handy
Great to hear you’re back on the road with easy starts!
I have 71 Super that turns over but won't catch, so I tried what you reccommended and sure enough only a couple of drops came out of the hose, I had my wife pump the peddle and try to start the car but got nothing, so I guess my problem is in the front. My fuel filter is in the front, what should I check next? Thanks
Was there ever a video on how to replace🙏🏼
The side mounted mechanical fuel pumps will easily dump fuel into the crankcase when that particular seal fails as well. Not that, that applies to this motor at all.
I had no fuel coming through the hose from the tank to the pump. I used the 1/8" pin attachment on my Intex kayak's two-way air pump. After a couple pumps I heard the air bubbling in the fuel tank and we were back in business. I should probably add a fuel filter to the pump inlet line...
That’s a clever way to unblock the line! A filter would be a good idea, and next time you pull the tank out, replace the little fuel screen ‘sock’ that sits at the bottom of the tank. They are often perished, letting everything down the fuel line.
It really depends on what fuel pump you need as the rods are different lengths to the pump kits depending on if the car has a generator or an alternator fitted, usually the rod needs to be the correct length and packed with grease otherwise you'll get problems.
Great point, well made. There are different push rods and pumps depending on your setup. Packing the pump drive arm with wheel bearing grease is essential.
Blow down intake pipe see if you can hear petrol tank bubbling. Its clear of blockages untill pump.
That’s a great tip, I’ll give it a go!
@@VWClassicFix Did it work
HI, my problem is ran the car out of gas put 3 gallons in and tried to restart the car and nothing. fuel is getting to the pump but very little is being pumped to the car. Pulled the fuel line to carb had wife start the motor for 10 seconds and got may be 1-2 teaspoons of gas? Any ideas?
Sounds like gunk has been sucked through the fuel system from the bottom of the tank when it ran out of gas.
So, i had this big puddle of oil, and when i touched it, had a petrol smell. The puddle was towards the driver side. The dipstick was definitley smelling like oil with petrol, and the level had raised above the 2nd marker line. So, now im scared to even start the car. Your video is confirming that my gas pump is faulty. But i was unclear if I replace the entire unit, or simply take it apart and install new gasket seals???? Any advice/help much appreciated (1972 karmann ghia)
Hi there, new sealed unit is a cheaper way to go, and easier to replace. Here in NZ a sealer fuel pump is $40-70 depending on you’re engine type. A rebuild kit for an existing one costs over $100! And then you’ve got to rebuild it too :)
Chuck a new fuel pump on, with new gaskets, & drain the oil & replace it before starting it up! You’ll have to drain it cold, any more hot running with petrol in the oil can cause great damage. Let it drain for an hour or so, cap off, so that any petrol left can evaporate out of the engine. You should be good to go after that!
VW Classic Fix Thankyou for your reply. Much appreciate.
Hello! Hope all is well! Wonderful video ,,keep up the good work! I got a question .. I notice you dont have a fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carburetor.. may i ask why? .. also where do you have your fuel filter? ... and your reasons for your setup .. thanks! :)
naim abdool Fuel filters are not required. They are just a way of making sure nothing bad gets in your engine therefore it is not vital
@@joshgutierrez7380 Are you saying like zero filters are required? .. Cause where i live the gas is not 100 percent clean .. :D
Of course filters are required in a car. All I’m saying is that it is not vital for the car to run. For all you know he could’ve just rebuilt that engine or just didn’t want to spend the money to get a fuel filter. If something is not essential you will find that most people won’t buy it. However he could’ve had a fuel filter, just closer to the firewall which means we couldn’t see it from the video. That’s where my fuel filter is. But if someone were to not have a fuel filter, the engine would most likely still run unless the fuel is contaminated, and that shouldn’t happen because I trust you typically get your fuel from a big company and not some knock off one. And fuel filters won’t make gas “100 percent clean” so maybe you should say things you actually know before spreading information that could be and probably is false. I get that you want to be right, because so do I. But in this case I’m right because you are saying things you don’t know. Nobody likes a smart ass, and that’s what you are acting like. So either shut the hell up, or act mature. “:)”
I run my fuel filter up underneath the fuel tank and change it every year or two, depending on mileage. Cheers!
You say an engine could even blow from the inside with the gas leaking to the crankcase? What are the symptons of it?
The symptoms would be thin oil, that stinks of fuel. So check your oil regularly and make sure the engine isn’t ‘making’ oil.
In my case, the dipstick was smelling of gasoline, but the gas pump was not the culprit. The main issue was that the car would not start when engine was cold. Apparently, the needle in the carb floater was too short. My mechanic changed it to a longer one and problem solved. Not sure how it solved the problem of the gas leaking into the oil. Would you have an explanation? Thanks.
I guess it probably not, only way of having gas inside the oil pan is via a fuel pump leak ir excess gas passing thru the piston rings to the carter after a long time of sitting parked.
Yeah it could easily be worn rings letting rich mixture into the oil while trying to get it started etc.
If you had a filter inline from the pump to the carburetor, you could just look there...
So my dipstick smells of gasoline. It won’t start and I was suspecting it was the fuel pump. Does this mean my engine is shot or can it be saved? If so, how do I save it with fuel in the engine, assuming there is? Thank you
Best thing to do is start by replacing the fuel pump and changing the oil. Run it and see if the smell comes back.
Follow up: Fuel pump took a dump as a result of running of gas...replaced pump, fuel filter, and lines... started it up and it ran like CRAP pulled the top of the carb of and all the jets were plugged with all the carp in the tank....cleaned them out... ran good then. So, running out of gas cost me a money, aggravation not to mention all the walking I did. So, watch you fuel gauge and do not say I can make it!
That’s good advice! If there’s gunk in your tank and you suck it through to the carb, it’s no fun. Had the same thing happen to me in a Kombi when I was 19. Cost me a whole day of mucking around! Haha
I had a sticking fuel pushrod , I filed the Bakelite block lightly and fixed it .
Yeah I’ve heard of this happening to lots of people, and I know Chris Vallone over at Classic VW Bugs has a good video explaining the issue.
Why does my 1972 volkswagen crank over then just stops and starts to crank again
Sounds like it could be a wiring issue if the starter is cutting in and out. Could be the starter getting worn. Also check that the engine isn’t over advance, which can cause it to ‘bog down’ on the starter sometimes. Cheers.
Or you have a sticking push rod when the plastic stand for the fuel pump is too tight when it gets hot, see videos on sanding the stand so it does not stick in the engine mounting hole!
Indeed, a buddy of mine had that exact issue.
Yep this can be issue, although I haven’t struck it myself. Best to check the fitment of the rod in the stand during assembly, so it never happens. But I should’ve mentioned it, spot on! Thanks for commenting!
What if there isnt any fuel to the pump but the tank is full
The problem is most likely with your fuel line from the tank to the pump. Either blocked or deteriorated and leaking.
Sounds like a blocked fuel line running from the tank to the engine.
Hi. So, new fuel pump is in. But i think this pump is pumping alotta fuel. The fuel filter is full capacity almost. What next mate? Engine has fast idle, then when i release from 1st gear, it quickly wants to die, and if i pump it with gas pedal, the idle over accelerates again....hmmm
Hi, did you make sure that the lever in the base of the fuel pump is at the same height as the old one? I.e were the parts matched up like for like? Also, where is the fuel filter. When your float chamber in the carb is at the correct level, the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply, so it’s unlikely that the fuel pump is causing a fast idle. Have you touched the carb adjustments and would that be causing it to run fast?
It sounds like it could be a carb issue. Be sure to make sure your timing isn’t too advance as well.
VW Classic Fix hi. The lever on the previous pump was way up inside. The lever on this new pump sticks out a bit, required a bit of force to bolt on. And i didnt touch carb settings at all, only lossened the carb a bit to remove the old pump and replace...
I’m afraid they’ve sold you the incorrect pump. You’ll need one that has the same lever height, or you’ll need to buy a shorter fuel pump push rod, so you don’t cause wear to the distributor drive shaft, and the fuel pump will be under great strain at the moment. Hope this helps mate.
There is a 100mm push rod, and a 108mm push rod. Remove fuel pump and pull push rod out of the centre of the fuel pump stand. Place a new 100mm push rod in and away you go, providing there’s no damage to the fuel pump from the strain of having the larger push rod actuating it. Cheers
Clean the tank, clean the screen, blow the lines, install German pump. Good to go.
I have now gone with an electric pump.
OH, 66 vw bug 1300 stock motor
Don’t expect much better than last season with McFred as our midfield YET AGAIN!! Be lucky to get in the top 6 let alone a trophy!! No longer the biggest club in the world anymore! Not competing with the best team’s and not in all the biggest competitions