Could be several things. The last one I had was a faulty fuel pump, exactly like yours. I put a Pierburg for nearly three times the price and it works fine. I checked it by removing the top of the hose going to the carb and no fuel was spilled. Could be points, bad timing, spark cables, faulty sparks, fuel line, ... (I know it is a late reply but it could help some reader).
No spark. Kuhltec electronic ignition distributor notorious for similar problems. Stick with points. Worked fine in 20 million VWs. Terminal #1 on coil is hot&cold as points open & close. If not, no spark, will never run. Turn engine until timing mark is up, rotor points to 5 o’clock (good idea to make SURE it’s on #1, both valves closed). 12V test light on terminal #1 with condenser wire, NO OTHER WIRES (unless you have a tach) Turn distributor CLOCKWISE until light is OFF and a little further, then turn distributor COUNTERCLOCKWISE until light just comes ON. Snug distributor clamp. It will start & run fine
Check to see if you have power going to the coil when you turn it over I had a grounded wire in the back under the carpet not enough power to the coil I replaced the wire and it started right up
not sure you will see this but mine was doing this today my fix was the points being loose and not moving. all i did was regap and tighten and boom started right up. hop this helps 5 years late
Ok,on these engines, I would first make sure there is fuel in the tank. Then is the fuel flowing back to the fuel pump. Is there a filter? Is it plugged? If all is good, now you’re at the carb. There is a device on the left side of the carb, near the coil, that shuts off fuel to the carb when you shut off engine. Test it by pulling the electric plug off it with the key on, in the run position. Touch that connection, you should hear an audible click sound.if you don’t, use a jumper wire that is hot to test. If it clicks, it should work. Crank the engine over. The fuel pump should fill the carb float bowl. Hold the choke open by hand, so you can look down the throat.pump the throttle, you should see fuel squirt out of the accelerator port.if not, then you got a problem. Has this engine sat for a long time? Todays fuel breaks down very fast, and is famous for plugging up carbs.I could type all night. Not going to. These are the basic first steps to check. Maybe a qualified tech is where you should go to next. Gasoline is dangerous. Good luck.
Dude I feel your pain, I checked out a completely rebuild/restored one at a dealership today and the motor started but wouldn't stay running, the used salesman gave it a try and just kept revving the piss out of it until it stayed going, not sure how good that was for the motor but it worked. $15k might buy it, not sure though...
Any luck? Im having same problem. New carburetor and so on. Can spark plugs die if flood it several times? Im going to order new plugs and if that doesnt work, im lost.
I was having the same problem I bought a new coil from napa and still no spark I bought a ne rotor new condenser new cap and nothing turns out that the coil I bought from napa are no good for bugs I went and bought a bosch coil and that solved it
two wires (black and red usually) if it is one of the pointless distributors w/out a condenser. If it has points, the condenser has a green wire up to negative on the coil tower.
You should check the point it might be closed and needs some readjustment, i had the same problem and i re adjusted it through the highest point with a 0.16 opening and it worked. Best luck ♥️
Hi carlosjimz, if you unplugged the choke wire how did the choke continue to work? We have a T2 bus with an emphi carb and it too has an auto choke, so just wondering if this is also our problem. But do you have to wire the choke seperately? Thanks.
I have 73 beetle replaced coil, condenser,points,wires, distributor even bought pointless distributor electronic,plugs, new carburetor, fuses, timing,no start,turns over good can anyone give me some advice
It sounds like you have no spark if you spray starting fluid in the carburetor it's should start if you have spark since you don't you have no spark could be the wires or coil
I had good spark. It turned out to be cylinder wash. There was a little water in the engine from the PO keeping it stored outside unprotected, plus I had tried starting it and flooded the engine with unspent fuel. It worked itself out in the end.
MIne was running very rough. I just purchased it and notice the PO had the #1 & #2 plug wires reversed. I switched them around and now it won't even start!
Body It seems you do not have spark coming out from coil Make a real test Remove tip from distr (coil) ... pointing out to metal, ask a helper to crank it ... you must see spark ... if not coil is bad
Just fixed mine Found contact in dist .cap was not reaching contact on rotor ...I built up brass contact on top of rotor with solder ...works now til I get a new dist. Cap
When mine turns over it starts immediately.....my problem is intermittant electric non-connectivity. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it won't I can't get it to even turn over. The cables are clean, the red light comes on, but when I turn the key.....nothing happens.
Gd evning too all vw mechanics chef. i ask my vm engine. Fuel supply good. Spark good new spark plug.. carb finish cleaning but why the engine is verry hard start.
You indicated your starting problem was due to water in the cylinders. Three questions. Did you see white exhaust smoke, which I see coming out of the tailpipes? Could the water be at the bottom of the gas tank, as I had no problem starting 3 weeks ago? Should I just wait until the cylinders dry or can I dry it faster somehow? Thanks for your reply.
Hi there, no I did not see any white smoke. At this point, the engine hadn't been started in several years and had been exposed to southwestern Idaho weather during that time. As I was assembling the engine, water was visible in the dual ports. I did my best to use a rag to dry it up, but that obviously wasn't a quick/easy fix. In reality, I probably should have pulled the jugs off and drained the engine of all fluids. But I didn't have an engine stand AND this was my first bug engine that I had ever removed. I learned a lot, but I'm no pro by any means. You might try heating up the engine block somehow to see if that helps evaporate the water. Or, on an engine stand, pull the heads or oil cover and see if you can rotate it and drain water. Other than that, work through all of the other stuff that could go wrong and keep your fingers crossed. Good luck.
steve baker Turns out I had "cylinder wash.". So much gas had gotten in to the cylinders (Turned out that early on a I had a bad battery. After a lot of turning the engine with not enough spark...) that it had washed the oil off and killed my compression. I had to put in some oil through the spark plug holes for each cylinder and... Eventually... It started!
My 72 beetle looks exactly like yours and I'm having the same problem as you were having in the video exactly the same down to the bad battery that I had and turning it with a low Spark so your video has been helpful. My question is what type of oil did you use and where exactly did you put it?? Please help🤔
C. Washington I used motor oil. Same stuff you put in the engine when you change your oil. I put it in through the spark plug holes. Maybe 10 ml or so. Just enough to get oil back around the cylinder heads to make sure I was getting combustion instead of just a busted ego. Good luck
I'm having the same problem like you so what I did I cleaned my carburetor I took the carburetor off the car took it apart and cleaned it put it back in and the runs good ✨✨✨👍✨✨✨
Could be several things. The last one I had was a faulty fuel pump, exactly like yours. I put a Pierburg for nearly three times the price and it works fine. I checked it by removing the top of the hose going to the carb and no fuel was spilled. Could be points, bad timing, spark cables, faulty sparks, fuel line, ... (I know it is a late reply but it could help some reader).
No spark. Kuhltec electronic ignition distributor notorious for similar problems. Stick with points. Worked fine in 20 million VWs. Terminal #1 on coil is hot&cold as points open & close. If not, no spark, will never run. Turn engine until timing mark is up, rotor points to 5 o’clock (good idea to make SURE it’s on #1, both valves closed). 12V test light on terminal #1 with condenser wire, NO OTHER WIRES (unless you have a tach) Turn distributor CLOCKWISE until light is OFF and a little further, then turn distributor COUNTERCLOCKWISE until light just comes ON. Snug distributor clamp. It will start & run fine
Not getting fuel, check level, check hoses for leaks, check carbs
Check to see if you have power going to the coil when you turn it over I had a grounded wire in the back under the carpet not enough power to the coil I replaced the wire and it started right up
not sure you will see this but mine was doing this today my fix was the points being loose and not moving. all i did was regap and tighten and boom started right up. hop this helps 5 years late
This for every spark engine. Does it have good spark at the plug? Yes? Are you getting fuel? This is always your starting point.
What if you’re not getting fuel? What are the fixes?
Ok,on these engines, I would first make sure there is fuel in the tank. Then is the fuel flowing back to the fuel pump. Is there a filter? Is it plugged? If all is good, now you’re at the carb. There is a device on the left side of the carb, near the coil, that shuts off fuel to the carb when you shut off engine. Test it by pulling the electric plug off it with the key on, in the run position. Touch that connection, you should hear an audible click sound.if you don’t, use a jumper wire that is hot to test. If it clicks, it should work. Crank the engine over. The fuel pump should fill the carb float bowl. Hold the choke open by hand, so you can look down the throat.pump the throttle, you should see fuel squirt out of the accelerator port.if not, then you got a problem. Has this engine sat for a long time? Todays fuel breaks down very fast, and is famous for plugging up carbs.I could type all night. Not going to. These are the basic first steps to check. Maybe a qualified tech is where you should go to next. Gasoline is dangerous. Good luck.
Ok thank you so much for the help!
If the choke wire or the carburetor cut off wire ever touch ground even for a second, it will pop the fuse and kill the ignition too.
Yes sir that’s exactly what happened to mine.
Dude I feel your pain, I checked out a completely rebuild/restored one at a dealership today and the motor started but wouldn't stay running, the used salesman gave it a try and just kept revving the piss out of it until it stayed going, not sure how good that was for the motor but it worked. $15k might buy it, not sure though...
Did you ever buy it?
used salesman
Funny term
That's the problem with mine it'll turn on but won't stay on and when it does stay on nothing but white smokes comes out the exhaust
Any luck? Im having same problem. New carburetor and so on. Can spark plugs die if flood it several times? Im going to order new plugs and if that doesnt work, im lost.
I was having the same problem I bought a new coil from napa and still no spark I bought a ne rotor new condenser new cap and nothing turns out that the coil I bought from napa are no good for bugs I went and bought a bosch coil and that solved it
I had the same problem with my '73 SB, and I replaced the relay switch, and that did the trick.
There should be only ONE wire from ignition coil 2 going to distributer/points!
VW 101 to start you need:
1. fuel
2 ignition spark
Liberty Patriot
two wires (black and red usually) if it is one of the pointless distributors w/out a condenser. If it has points, the condenser has a green wire up to negative on the coil tower.
You should check the point it might be closed and needs some readjustment, i had the same problem and i re adjusted it through the highest point with a 0.16 opening and it worked. Best luck ♥️
He has a new electronic ignition. No points.
@@KiaiEchomaybe that was the problem
Sounded almost the same when my choke wire was shorting out the coil, unplugged the wire and it 🔥 fired right up
Nice starter by the way
That’s the bad thing about having “other things” on the same circuit with the ignition. The ignition should have it’s own dedicated circuit.
Hi carlosjimz, if you unplugged the choke wire how did the choke continue to work? We have a T2 bus with an emphi carb and it too has an auto choke, so just wondering if this is also our problem. But do you have to wire the choke seperately? Thanks.
I'll try that
I have 73 beetle replaced coil, condenser,points,wires, distributor even bought pointless distributor electronic,plugs, new carburetor, fuses, timing,no start,turns over good can anyone give me some advice
73 beetle i replaced everything im having the exact same problem no spark,let me know when you find out tx
check all power grounds to coil and distributor with common test light
It sounds like you have no spark if you spray starting fluid in the carburetor it's should start if you have spark since you don't you have no spark could be the wires or coil
I had good spark. It turned out to be cylinder wash. There was a little water in the engine from the PO keeping it stored outside unprotected, plus I had tried starting it and flooded the engine with unspent fuel. It worked itself out in the end.
MIne was running very rough. I just purchased it and notice the PO had the #1 & #2 plug wires reversed. I switched them around and now it won't even start!
Body
It seems you do not have spark coming out from coil
Make a real test
Remove tip from distr (coil) ... pointing out to metal, ask a helper to crank it ... you must see spark ... if not coil is bad
check plug wire for spark. no spark ignition control module inside cap or points and or small condenser real small silver barrel inch long
Same here...my 1966 won't start it has not Sparkling in the distributor , what to do in this case?
Look at the reply to Steve Baker for the answer.
Plug up that vacuum port in the front…set points to .018
Just fixed mine Found contact in dist .cap was not reaching contact on rotor ...I built up brass contact on top of rotor with solder ...works now til I get a new dist. Cap
Check the Spark plugs
You have a vacuum port wide open to atmosphere. It’s right there facing rearward on the carburetor. Plug it.
Pro trick : you can watch movies at kaldrostream. Been using it for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Maddox Blaze yea, have been using KaldroStream for years myself :)
When mine turns over it starts immediately.....my problem is intermittant electric non-connectivity. Sometimes it starts and
sometimes it won't I can't get it to even turn over. The cables are clean, the red light comes on, but when I turn the key.....nothing happens.
Gadsdon Flag Ignition switch?
Remove a spark plug earth to motor an see if you get spark at the plug?
I did this, too. I think it ended up being waterlogged since the PO left it out in Idaho weather for too long.
Gd evning too all vw mechanics chef. i ask my vm engine. Fuel supply good. Spark good new spark plug.. carb finish cleaning but why the engine is verry hard start.
Carburetor choke element this is the problem
Just went through this and your correct unplugged the electric choke and it starts and runs good
@@stephenbolton1098 So you just never plug the electric choke back in?
Same issue on my 74 but new carb. and electric fuel pump also.
Mine will fire 2-3 times and run for a second then it wont.
Help! Stumped too
bad fuel pump or bad fuel line.
Do you put enough gas dude? is your fuel line okay? you got the cranking, battery okay,, my 74 super beetle mine like your also
Did you solve it ? If yes what was it ?
You indicated your starting problem was due to water in the cylinders. Three questions. Did you see white exhaust smoke, which I see coming out of the tailpipes? Could the water be at the bottom of the gas tank, as I had no problem starting 3 weeks ago? Should I just wait until the cylinders dry or can I dry it faster somehow?
Thanks for your reply.
Hi there, no I did not see any white smoke. At this point, the engine hadn't been started in several years and had been exposed to southwestern Idaho weather during that time. As I was assembling the engine, water was visible in the dual ports. I did my best to use a rag to dry it up, but that obviously wasn't a quick/easy fix. In reality, I probably should have pulled the jugs off and drained the engine of all fluids. But I didn't have an engine stand AND this was my first bug engine that I had ever removed. I learned a lot, but I'm no pro by any means.
You might try heating up the engine block somehow to see if that helps evaporate the water. Or, on an engine stand, pull the heads or oil cover and see if you can rotate it and drain water. Other than that, work through all of the other stuff that could go wrong and keep your fingers crossed. Good luck.
Your distributor is that a timing I could see it from video
vacuum leak at the carb
I’m having the same issue with my 73 VW Bug. Won’t start and shut off at a stop light. Would love to figure out what’s wrong with it?
Aaron Cruz same exact thing here, but mine backfired out of the carb.
@@lutherb2954 timing
did you figure this out yet?
steve baker Turns out I had "cylinder wash.". So much gas had gotten in to the cylinders (Turned out that early on a I had a bad battery. After a lot of turning the engine with not enough spark...) that it had washed the oil off and killed my compression. I had to put in some oil through the spark plug holes for each cylinder and... Eventually... It started!
My 72 beetle looks exactly like yours and I'm having the same problem as you were having in the video exactly the same down to the bad battery that I had and turning it with a low Spark so your video has been helpful. My question is what type of oil did you use and where exactly did you put it?? Please help🤔
C. Washington I used motor oil. Same stuff you put in the engine when you change your oil. I put it in through the spark plug holes. Maybe 10 ml or so. Just enough to get oil back around the cylinder heads to make sure I was getting combustion instead of just a busted ego. Good luck
There should only be the distributor wire on the ground side of the coil
Other wire go on positive
Ignition coil!!!
I’m having the same issue
M check your distributor go buy an 09 distributor and empi carburetor in your problems will be solved
I'm having the same problem with my bug did you get that figured out
Same here
Jeremiah Ramsey same here!
julio martinez me too did you figure it out?
Luke Larue yes, changed the coil and started right up!
The reply is on Steve Baker comment
There is a small plug opposite your battery coming from the positive terminal. It is notorious for for unplugging 😂
What cable do you mean?
I'm same new coil rebuilt carb new electronic distributor it's on tdc new plugs wires valves adjusted uggg
Any updates? Cause I'm on this boat now.
Your electronic points are no good
I’m having to same problem and I can’t figure it out
bill gorgeous I replied to Steve Baker describing briefly what my problem and solution was. Good luck!
I'm having the same problem like you so what I did I cleaned my carburetor I took the carburetor off the car took it apart and cleaned it put it back in and the runs good ✨✨✨👍✨✨✨
I have the same problem with my 74 beettle
Edith Eddie Look for my reply to Steve Baker. It tells you what my problem was.
Dirty points? Maybe
Have you tried turning it off and on again?
Alternator?
😂
Did you try burn down the beetle maybe that will save you time and money!!!???
😔😔😔🥺😔😞😞
so sad to see such a sexy car be like this! if she were mine i would’nt have left this happen!!!!!