dont forget to replace that POS sheet metal stamped nut, AKA, the Achilles heal of the 7.3, it is 1/2 x 20 if you need to know the size, the stamped nut WILL come loose and sideline your truck
Thanks so much, friend, and I’m humbled. So glad this video helped. Ron is a legend…will always be thankful for his contributions to diesel truck owners.
@@GrubNGas Went to Ford dealer today for my IPR. Reg price $674 My price with my Ford a account $462. WTF is going on! I remember these costing about $200-$225 just a few years ago when I replaced my ICP sensor. The guy at the dealership told me Ford recently updated the IPR part and the price went through the roof. Pissed 😡
Much appreciated! Now I know what to get to change my dad's on his truck. Should state when ipr goes out the icp and pigtail are normally bad too. Your video helped me out big time. I'm a gasoline mechanic and the diesels always throw me for a loop but that's what my mom wanted so dad and I get to fix what breaks.
Thanks for telling the real story about the tool to use. I have two 29 mm and. 1 1/8 sockets and none of them are deep enough to get to the piece of the IPR to use them - they all hit the end of the socket. I can’t see how any socket except one that’s 4” long could actually work.
Fyi for anyone doing this, I found my "shower socket set" using the 1 3/32 would not quite fit. It tried to go on, seemed like I needed a 1 and 7/64 that was how close it was. Grabbed a flle and when I started checking it, there was a "lip" on the socket mouth I guess where they cut them off. File the lip down until it is smooth and now it fits fine.
Just to help anyone wondering for reference I believe that 1-3/32” is equal to a 27 or 29mm if you cant find that shower valve kit! Make sure it’s a deep socket i plan on doing my ipr today
Thanks man I'm gonna go buy one of these right now. Got to this part and couldn't fit anything on it i have an econoline so its even harder to get too. Was getting ready to take off the fuel bowl and hpop.
I bought a used Snap-On 1/2” drive 1-1/8 deep socket and it the job also. You have to buy the older one that has more of the socket milled out as the newer snap on sockets leave a neck down area not allowing room for the IPR. Mine is a 1984 socket. (Snap on are date stamped) cost me 20$.
Glad I watched this video while I was at harbor freight! Also got the free light!! Thanks ! I was about to buy some other separate tools and would’ve costed me a lot more this was only $10 with the free light. Awesome now time to change that ipr.
Grub 'N Gas yep it worked good Only thing I had a problem was my ipr was on there good so it bent the stick lol I had to settle for a screwdriver to shove in the holes but it was a heavy duty screw driver and broke that ipr loose!! Definitely recommend this to anybody looking for the correct socket at harbor freight because you won’t, just get the shower socket because it fits in the perfect spot. Some sockets won’t fit correctly because they aren’t as thin at the shower socket. Good video helped me save money and get my 7.3 running like new again. 💯
Wish I had found this last month, but the specialty tool was only 20 bucks. You truck guys are lucky. That thing's a nightmare to change in an E450 7.3
@@tjcrim You can get at it from inside the dog house, underneath the turbo, on the passenger side of the turbo pedestal. Shine a light in there and you can see the IPR. You can feed a 20-inch ratchet extension into that opening to the IPR valve to get the retaining nut off. If you have or can make/weld an extra-long 1 and1/16 inch deep socket (standard 3-inch just isn't quite long enough) you could get the IPR out the same way. If not I would try his method for actually removing the IPR valve. Hope that helps.
Thanks for a great video and description of symptoms my 7.3 is doing the exact same, service engine soon light is on but no codes. Thanks for the trick tool idea, going to try it on mine . Will let you know how it turns out
I'm no diesel mechanic but this info will definitely help! I check my scan data and the duty cycle isn't meeting the recommended pressure! Once I graph the pressure and duty cycle percentage, the pressure suppose to hit 2k psi at 65% but only make 500 to 1k
So glad this helped, and it sounds like you’re a pretty good mechanic, thanks for sharing that pressure data! I’m sure your comment will help someone else who reads this. Have a great night!
@@GrubNGas your video helped me with getting an idea for removal. Identifix didn't have a repair procedure just labor time and location. I read through various case studies for tips but you helped me alot. Thanks Labor pays 1.4hrs, I wouldn't be touching this if it wasn't my brothers truck lol
Thx for the video! Always nice to know what to tell the wife what tool to bring while on the side of the road! (Great call on the HF set!) I had similar issue at take off, the truck would stall out and restart. Today, there was no restart. The solenoid body came off, suspecting the nut backed out or broke off..
I bought the dumb wrench and it is slipping. Probably because it is sized 11/8. Your 1 3/32 will probably be just right. Dumb special wrench cost me $25. Your solution is half that and looks like it will work way easier. Can't wait to try it.
@@GrubNGas I got it done tonight. Mine was very very tight. Had to use the 1 5/32 and slip a 1 1/2 inch wrench over the other end to break it loose. This thing fought me every step of the way. Just glad I found some shop towels for the oil.
@@GrubNGas Well heck. I've got a 2001 E350 and the IPR is not visible without a camera. I can barely get my hand in to touch it and it seems to be impossible to get any sort of wrench or socket on the thing due to the lack of clearance to the dash frame. The only way I found the thing is watching your video then taking a few pictures with my phone jammed into the area. I sure would pay someone to figure out how to change this puppy. Thanks again.
Your video helped me. What a PITA to get to that thing! I used the short ladder as per your suggestion. I had a 1 1/8 deep socket that worked. I also used a heavy cardboard box that I flattened and used to lay on top of the motor.
Just went down this rabbit hole. There is no speciality tool. You need to find an extra deep 1-1/8 socket. Finally found one for $84.00. A normal deep socket is a little to short. Was wondering if just replacing the slide on section would work but since watching have decided to try the shower valve sockets. THANKS for posting.
Thanks for the video. Never thought about shower valve wrenches. I don't have any. I have the professional ones that will not work in this case, but your idea gave me to use Electric water heater element wrench I have different sizes and one fits perfectly. You saved me brother.
thanks dude I got the valve at employee cost (work at a auto parts store) and wennt to harbor freight last night for this set was like 13 bucks after tax, way cheaper then the 30-40$ for a specialty wrench / socket (Which I probably already have since i have a ton of specialty sockets designed for taking various sensors and stuff off) but the main key was the chick that rang me out was gorgeous and talking to me about my piercings and tattoos, long story short i scored a phone number, so lets see where that goes baby EZ Clap
Freakin PSD and the multitude of sensors yikes, idle stumble issue 96 f350, replaced ICP now shes stallin on me, Yea cant get the coil solenoid unless you buy the whole IPR (my exp with PSD is dont go cheap) I rebuilt my IPR pretty easy with rebuild kit (diesel orings $12) ohmed the coil out at 10ohms not sure what the spec should be. IF you drain the HPOP (HF hand pump about 1.5 qts) it helps. Great upload.
Question I was taking the coil Off the ipr & it didn’t have the part after the 16mm but. It looks like a pool of oil on the top of my engine. Could that be the cause of so much oil on my engine? Should I replace the the coil & the piece after it or is the ring bad on my ipr?
Here is an article that does a better job than I could have explaining the differences between the 1995 7.3 and the 2002 7.3: dieselresource.com/diesel-resources/7-3l-powerstroke-specifications/
I got a 2000 Ford F-350 7.3 powerstroke, it sounds like It’s misfiring, when I ease on the throttle, it’ll start to shake/vibrate at a certain rpm. What May It be?
It’s hard to say but I’d check the following: -Fuel filter -Air getting into the fuel line from the tank at some point -Clogging fuel screen in the tank (I had a different F-550 where the tank de-laminated and the flakes of laminate clogged up the fuel inlet) -Check injector wiring harness Hope this helps!
For me it was stalling and surging, and sometimes just flat out dying. It was a stick shift truck, so this made taking off at a stop sign a pain at times.
@@GrubNGas I was able to pull out the part with an extra deep 29mm impact axle/spindle socket from Oreilly's auto parts. The issue was that the tooling was made incorrectly. The flat portions of the hex socket curved in-wards instead of flat like most sockets are (I hope you understand it).
![Ford 7.3 Powerstroke- Rough Running [IPR replacement]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CXBHAiPN7W0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Ford 7.3 Powerstroke- Rough Running [IPR replacement]](/img/tr.png)
dont forget to replace that POS sheet metal stamped nut, AKA, the Achilles heal of the 7.3, it is 1/2 x 20 if you need to know the size, the stamped nut WILL come loose and sideline your truck
Oh wow! Thank you for the tip!!!
THANK YOU SIR!!! You are the only video that gave location clearly and who has a F550 7.3
You are MOST welcome, friend! Glad this video helped!
Thanks, man showed everything I needed very clear and concise!
You’re most welcome, friend! Glad this video helped!!!
Great Video, like you said no one posted clear view of location. Diesel Ron was great . Thanks
You're most welcome!
Great video. Doing this on my 2002 F350 today. Diesel Ron was the best. However, IPR video is literally the best one I’ve seen.
Thanks so much, friend, and I’m humbled. So glad this video helped. Ron is a legend…will always be thankful for his contributions to diesel truck owners.
@@GrubNGas
Went to Ford dealer today for my IPR.
Reg price $674
My price with my Ford a
account $462.
WTF is going on!
I remember these costing about $200-$225 just a few years ago when I replaced my ICP sensor.
The guy at the dealership told me Ford recently updated the IPR part and the price went through the roof.
Pissed 😡
@@jayonez137 whoa!!!! Are you kidding?????????
Life saver!! thanks for the tip sir! you’ve saved tons of people money and time!
You are most welcome!
Much appreciated! Now I know what to get to change my dad's on his truck. Should state when ipr goes out the icp and pigtail are normally bad too. Your video helped me out big time. I'm a gasoline mechanic and the diesels always throw me for a loop but that's what my mom wanted so dad and I get to fix what breaks.
Man, this comment makes my day! So glad this video is helping you, and I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Means a lot! Have a great day!
Thanks for telling the real story about the tool to use. I have two 29 mm and. 1 1/8 sockets and none of them are deep enough to get to the piece of the IPR to use them - they all hit the end of the socket. I can’t see how any socket except one that’s 4” long could actually work.
Yup, that was the problem I faced, and just happened on these on a HF trip. Glad it helped you, friend, and you’re most welcome!
Fyi for anyone doing this, I found my "shower socket set" using the 1 3/32 would not quite fit. It tried to go on, seemed like I needed a 1 and 7/64 that was how close it was. Grabbed a flle and when I started checking it, there was a "lip" on the socket mouth I guess where they cut them off. File the lip down until it is smooth and now it fits fine.
Thanks for the additional info!
Just to help anyone wondering for reference I believe that 1-3/32” is equal to a 27 or 29mm if you cant find that shower valve kit! Make sure it’s a deep socket i plan on doing my ipr today
Garage7Customs Did the 29mm work?
Lusa Ofi yes the 29 did work
Great tip!
Yes the 29mm did work!
Thanks man I'm gonna go buy one of these right now. Got to this part and couldn't fit anything on it i have an econoline so its even harder to get too. Was getting ready to take off the fuel bowl and hpop.
You’re most welcome, and I’m glad this video helped! Best wishes getting yours replaced!
Good video sir thank u nice to have someone show u exactly what your looking to do!!
Thanks for the feedback, and you are most welcome! I’m really glad this video helped!!!
I bought a used Snap-On 1/2” drive 1-1/8 deep socket and it the job also. You have to buy the older one that has more of the socket milled out as the newer snap on sockets leave a neck down area not allowing room for the IPR. Mine is a 1984 socket. (Snap on are date stamped) cost me 20$.
29mm works as well as 1-1/8
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the info!
Love RON! cool shot out.. he helped so many and thank you for your time..
You're most welcome!
Ron was a legend! Still is!
Sir, you saved me time and money. Thank you 🙏
So glad this helped you, and you are MOST welcome!!!
Just bought the socket kit Thanks for the heads up dude saved me some money
I owe you a 🍺
Sounds good brother! Glad it helped!!!
Glad I watched this video while I was at harbor freight! Also got the free light!! Thanks ! I was about to buy some other separate tools and would’ve costed me a lot more this was only $10 with the free light. Awesome now time to change that ipr.
theodore carbajal glad to hear it! Thanks for the feedback!
Grub 'N Gas yep it worked good Only thing I had a problem was my ipr was on there good so it bent the stick lol I had to settle for a screwdriver to shove in the holes but it was a heavy duty screw driver and broke that ipr loose!! Definitely recommend this to anybody looking for the correct socket at harbor freight because you won’t, just get the shower socket because it fits in the perfect spot. Some sockets won’t fit correctly because they aren’t as thin at the shower socket. Good video helped me save money and get my 7.3 running like new again. 💯
I think that is my problem, thanks for the video. Changed it out and she is good to go again. Thanks for the video, helped a lot.
You're most welcome!!!
@@GrubNGas Still running fine a year later. It was a pain to change. About stood on my head.
@@doug3805 i hear ya! Glad it's running good!
Wish I had found this last month, but the specialty tool was only 20 bucks. You truck guys are lucky. That thing's a nightmare to change in an E450 7.3
Wow, I’ll bet it is a nightmare! No space to see or work.
@@GrubNGas I call it working by braille.
But then I bought a cheep borescope for my phone. Best $15 I ever spent.
@@infotoons212 I like that, lol! And the scope was a money idea!
Any tips for this? Getting ready to do the same in my E450
@@tjcrim You can get at it from inside the dog house, underneath the turbo, on the passenger side of the turbo pedestal. Shine a light in there and you can see the IPR. You can feed a 20-inch ratchet extension into that opening to the IPR valve to get the retaining nut off. If you have or can make/weld an extra-long 1 and1/16 inch deep socket (standard 3-inch just isn't quite long enough) you could get the IPR out the same way.
If not I would try his method for actually removing the IPR valve. Hope that helps.
Thank you, it's been very helpful to me as I'm doing the job right now and was figuring out how to unscrew the thing... Thanks !!
Glad to help!
Thanks for a great video and description of symptoms my 7.3 is doing the exact same, service engine soon light is on but no codes. Thanks for the trick tool idea, going to try it on mine . Will let you know how it turns out
You’re most welcome, and I’d love to hear how it turned out!!! You got this!
I'm no diesel mechanic but this info will definitely help!
I check my scan data and the duty cycle isn't meeting the recommended pressure! Once I graph the pressure and duty cycle percentage, the pressure suppose to hit 2k psi at 65% but only make 500 to 1k
So glad this helped, and it sounds like you’re a pretty good mechanic, thanks for sharing that pressure data! I’m sure your comment will help someone else who reads this. Have a great night!
@@GrubNGas your video helped me with getting an idea for removal. Identifix didn't have a repair procedure just labor time and location. I read through various case studies for tips but you helped me alot. Thanks
Labor pays 1.4hrs, I wouldn't be touching this if it wasn't my brothers truck lol
@@partsshooter I hear ya on that one, LOL! The things we do for family, aye? So glad it helped and have a wonderful evening!
Thx for the video! Always nice to know what to tell the wife what tool to bring while on the side of the road! (Great call on the HF set!) I had similar issue at take off, the truck would stall out and restart. Today, there was no restart. The solenoid body came off, suspecting the nut backed out or broke off..
You're most welcome, and yeah, love HF!
Dude!! Thank You! I got half of mine off and didn't have any crow's foot to get the main body off.
You're most welcome!
I bought the dumb wrench and it is slipping. Probably because it is sized 11/8. Your 1 3/32 will probably be just right. Dumb special wrench cost me $25. Your solution is half that and looks like it will work way easier. Can't wait to try it.
Man, sorry to hear about the wrench…hopefully the Harbor Freight idea works for ya!
@@GrubNGas I got it done tonight. Mine was very very tight. Had to use the 1 5/32 and slip a 1 1/2 inch wrench over the other end to break it loose. This thing fought me every step of the way. Just glad I found some shop towels for the oil.
@@realBokidwell glad you were able to get it done…it’s not the most fun job, but what a relief I’ll bet!
Nice video, I was wondering where that thing was. Gotta do mine, I just happen to own a set of shower sockets.
Thanks
Glad it helped! Best wishes with yours!
Thanks for the clean location shot!
You are most welcome, friend! Thank you for watching and supporting my channel! Have a blessed day💯
@@GrubNGas Well heck. I've got a 2001 E350 and the IPR is not visible without a camera. I can barely get my hand in to touch it and it seems to be impossible to get any sort of wrench or socket on the thing due to the lack of clearance to the dash frame. The only way I found the thing is watching your video then taking a few pictures with my phone jammed into the area. I sure would pay someone to figure out how to change this puppy. Thanks again.
@@RJScott oh man…that sounds like a miserable spot to get to…I’d try to come help you if you were anywhere near central Arkansas…
@@GrubNGas I appreciate the sentiment.
Thanks, I appreciate your style. Makes me think it is a painless repair. Will know pretty soon
Appreciate you!
I used an axle socket 29mm. worked great but you can use a wrench
Thanks for the tip!
Your video helped me. What a PITA to get to that thing! I used the short ladder as per your suggestion. I had a 1 1/8 deep socket that worked. I also used a heavy cardboard box that I flattened and used to lay on top of the motor.
Brother, you ain’t kidding, lol! So glad this helped you, my friend!!!!
Thank you so much for a clear video!!!
You're most welcome!
I took a 1 1/8 socket and welded a handle on it.
When done the handle can be removed and the socket is fine
That’ll work! Thanks for the tip!
Just went down this rabbit hole. There is no speciality tool. You need to find an extra deep 1-1/8 socket. Finally found one for $84.00. A normal deep socket is a little to short. Was wondering if just replacing the slide on section would work but since watching have decided to try the shower valve sockets. THANKS for posting.
You’re most welcome, and I hope this saves ya some money! It’s crazy what one socket costs😳
Thanks for the video. Never thought about shower valve wrenches. I don't have any. I have the professional ones that will not work in this case, but your idea gave me to use Electric water heater element wrench I have different sizes and one fits perfectly. You saved me brother.
God of plumbing so glad to hear it!!!
Great video, great info on the wrench..
Thanks!
It sure did help me I’m currently replacing mine as we speak 😂
Glad to help!
Thanks for the tip about the shower head wrench set! I'm going to get mine tomorrow!
You're most welcome!
thanks dude I got the valve at employee cost (work at a auto parts store) and wennt to harbor freight last night for this set was like 13 bucks after tax, way cheaper then the 30-40$ for a specialty wrench / socket (Which I probably already have since i have a ton of specialty sockets designed for taking various sensors and stuff off) but the main key was the chick that rang me out was gorgeous and talking to me about my piercings and tattoos, long story short i scored a phone number, so lets see where that goes baby EZ Clap
Bravo, bro!!! Win and a win!!!
currently doin mine an I got a drill to try an drill out my socket 😂 I'm goin right now to get this
That’s what’s up! Wish you the best!
You can also use a 1 1/8 deep well socket
True as well! Thank you for the added info!
Freakin PSD and the multitude of sensors yikes, idle stumble issue 96 f350, replaced ICP now shes stallin on me, Yea cant get the coil solenoid unless you buy the whole IPR (my exp with PSD is dont go cheap) I rebuilt my IPR pretty easy with rebuild kit (diesel orings $12) ohmed the coil out at 10ohms not sure what the spec should be. IF you drain the HPOP (HF hand pump about 1.5 qts) it helps. Great upload.
Thanks for the additional info!!!
@@GrubNGas Ive rebuilt several of these IPRs
Question I was taking the coil Off the ipr & it didn’t have the part after the 16mm but. It looks like a pool of oil on the top of my engine. Could that be the cause of so much oil on my engine? Should I replace the the coil & the piece after it or is the ring bad on my ipr?
I would replace the whole thing, the coil and the threaded part. Or at least unscrew the bottom part and install a new o-ring. Hope that helps!
I appreciate it
@@frarileyfranklin8693 you’re most welcome!
Was the sylinoid itself loose in the brass holder??
I don’t remember to be honest…it could have been….
Good Help here. thanks a ton!
You’re more than welcome, friend!!!
Gonna try it. Thanks dude
You’re most welcome!!! Here’s to your success!
I bought the shower valve socket wrench from harbor freight but the little rod bent that turns it.
Screwdriver
😬
My wrench handle bent just fyi but I’ll try again tomorrow just be aware of that possibility
Thanks for the heads up!
Mvp with the shots of ipr location and the packaging on the socket set
Thanks so much!!!!!
Glad it helped!
Thank you sir!
You’re most welcome, friend!
Sweet tip. Thanks
Most welcome!
I have Ford 250 7.3 1995 obs it’s same engine?
Here is an article that does a better job than I could have explaining the differences between the 1995 7.3 and the 2002 7.3:
dieselresource.com/diesel-resources/7-3l-powerstroke-specifications/
Very clever
I got a 2000 Ford F-350 7.3 powerstroke, it sounds like It’s misfiring, when I ease on the throttle, it’ll start to shake/vibrate at a certain rpm. What May It be?
It’s hard to say but I’d check the following:
-Fuel filter
-Air getting into the fuel line from the tank at some point
-Clogging fuel screen in the tank (I had a different F-550 where the tank de-laminated and the flakes of laminate clogged up the fuel inlet)
-Check injector wiring harness
Hope this helps!
@@GrubNGas is it a possibly the exhaust is cut to short? Cause it is, about 2-3 feet behind the rear axle
Whats the symptoms of a bad IPR?
For me it was stalling and surging, and sometimes just flat out dying. It was a stick shift truck, so this made taking off at a stop sign a pain at times.
you killed man! thanks
Thanks so much! It means a lot!!!
Thank you...thanks....TY....GRACIAS
You're most welcome!
This helped me so much thank u
You're most welcome!
RIP Dieseltechron
For sure…he was the GOAT of diesels.
Ah yes HF too the rescue!
👍
What size is the nut that holds the spacer on
I’m not sure but it might be a 5/8. It’s been awhile since it did this job.
Good video ★★★★★
Thanks so much!!!
Lol. Until that tool breaks 12 times. Just buy the wrench, it's 26 bucks.
You got a point:) It’s just for those of us who might do the job once or twice in the course of owning a 7.3.
It doesn’t fit. The hex head is slightly larger than the tool size 1-3/32.
Sorry to hear that. Could be an aftermarket part was previously installed…not sure.
@@GrubNGas I was able to pull out the part with an extra deep 29mm impact axle/spindle socket from Oreilly's auto parts. The issue was that the tooling was made incorrectly. The flat portions of the hex socket curved in-wards instead of flat like most sockets are (I hope you understand it).
@@sbitsjustony that makes total sense. The tool from HF had imperfections that kept it from fitting over the IPR.
Yeeeehawwwww
👍
When your truck would die would it throw any codes ?
I don’t remember pulling any codes, but this was a few years ago. I’m sorry I don’t have more info about those codes.