This has been up for a month and no coment!! Shux. Well i am about to buy a for f350. I've been watching alot of videos of the 7.3, and this is useful! Thank you! So, even tho the truck doesn't need a new HPOP yet..should I replace it when I put a new turbo and exhaust?.. i figured it might be a good time to do it since I will have it somewhat exposed ya know..
I'd just leave it alone. If you ever have to replace it, it's easy to do so! Also I personally have a new one on my shelf ready to go along with a stock pile of other parts and filters/sensors. I have 2 of everything haha.
@@psd28 If you don't pull heavy with tunes, you would not even know if the pump was weak. Running tunes that allow higher IPR% while pulling heavy may throw codes that are not seen with stock programming.
My last new truck was a 95 F250 with the new 7.3 Powerstroke. I've since had another 95, 96, 3 99's and a 2001. I run a 99 F350 Dually as my hotshot truck and my daily driver is a 99 cab I put on a roll-over wrecked 2001. So I've learned a few things along the way with my 7.3's. For those of you who think it's necessary to pump out your HPOP reservoir, be absolutely sure to thoroughly wipe down all interior surfaces of the block and pan, and flush out all the oil galleys, HPOP hoses, HPOP oil rails and injectors. The machine shop will do all that for you at a nominal charge. I mean, if you want to remove ALL the old oil and gunk, be SURE to do it right! Keep in mind that the volume of oil that passes thru the HPOP is very high and it will replace the oil in the reservoir while driving in a matter of seconds. It's not just sitting there stagnant. After the HPOP pump sends the oil to the injectors, each injector has an exhaust port which sends to oil back to [drum roll] the top of the heads where it drains back to the - yep, you guessed it - to the oil pan. The ONLY time to suck the oil out of the reservoir is if you want to remove the HPOP or IPR without making a huge mess in the valley.
I usually don't do my HPOP reservoir oil during an oil change, except when I think about it and feel like dealing with it, but my logic is that there is so much old oil stuck in the engine already, I really don't like the thought of having that much more in there on top of that. I use an extended life semi-synthetic blend and change the oil every 3,000 miles, so any oil stuck in there would have over 1,000 miles of service life left in it, so not such a big deal. Leaving the oil in the HPOP reservoir is the same as doing an oil change and then adding a cup to cup and a half of the dirty oil back into the engine. Just doesn't seem like a good thing. But I change my oil often enough and use an extended life oil, that I'm not that worried about it in my truck.
7.3 is the only reason why I've become my own backyard diesel mechanic! Wife constantly wants me to buy NEW truck but no thank you! My 99 is the best truck I've ever owned I'm happy to work on it and I love spending money on this Beast!
Yep, my '96 F250 powerstroke is the best truck I've ever had, other than my 1987 GMC Sierra I've had since the early 90's. My dad bought it as a "program truck" that was super low miles and only 1 previous owner, and we got it for the farm. I ended up rebuilding an LT1 350 "4 bolt main" engine and put that in it and put a 4 barrel Holley quadrajet and holley intake and HEI distributor in it.
Thank you for your video very informative just had a high pressure oil pump put on my '9973 wish I had seen your video first. As time permitted would have attempted it myself and at the very least had some other questions for the shop that made the repair. Thank you again for the future we have four other seven threes in our landscaping fleet
I totally agree! My wife says the same thing, my 97’ needs o rings due to a few leaks here and there! A buddy of mine just bought a brand new f450 dually 6.7 it has every option you can think of but looking under the hood I just shook my head and and said good luck 8-10 years from now the labour to repair any thing on this will cost you $ so Iam with you , 7.3 easy to do on your own 🔧⚙️
Go see this video cold motor oil change started and ran under 1 minute and I show the hpop oil If this isn't proof I don't know how much more I could bring this point home th-cam.com/video/ThwxCA93Aao/w-d-xo.html
I pull the oil out of the HIPOP and replace it and have noticed a big difference in cold starting. I also notice the oil that comes from the reseroir is quit a bit more sludgy than what drains from the pan. When I was an aircraft mechanic, we routinely had to de-sludge propellor domes and it is incredible how oil will coat the inside of a pressure chamber with a thick chewy layer of crap. It was like peanut butter. Probably not what you want in your HIPOP system. Its an extra pain in the butt but Im in alaska, so everything I can do to make cold starts easier is worth it.
Changing a few ounces of oil out of the H pop isn’t going to make it cold start better I don’t know where you’re getting that from if your truck is maintained properly and the glow plugs are working you shouldn’t have cold start issues my early 99 will start in subzero temperatures at the turn of the key after wait light goes out I don’t understand why so many people complain about cold starts with these power strokes there must be a lot of people with wore out components or neglect on their trucks. I think it’s a waste of time there’s tons of people out there with 500,000 miles or more on these engines that have never touched the oil in there hpop and like the video creator says if you’ve been using good oil from the beginning that shouldn’t have sludge in there to begin with and your truck will probably completely rust out around the engine long before it breaks down because of some sludge in the hpop 😅
@@justinjreabcm1381 Maybe your using conventional oil? My 7.3 ha had AMSOIL 100% synthetic 15-40 as long as I have owned it and every mechanic I have had it in to do maintenance over the years always say it’s the cleanest engine they have ever seen and that I must take good care of it (which I do) so I don’t know if you guys are getting sludge due to dinosaur oil or not? With changing my oil at 5k intervals and synthetic I don’t see how sludge would ever build up anywhere in engine including hpop. But I’m no expert so just curious.
The plug is there for the purpose of sucking out the oil to change the HPOP so the oil doesn't dump into the valley of the engine. Not necessary but helps keep the valley cleaner.
Great video! Glad I saw this and stopped to watch. I've only sucked the oil out twice over the years and change at 5000 miles, now at 525,000 miles. Always thought it was a waste of time considering all the other old oil left in engine during an oil change... like in oil rails, high pressure hoses, etc.... you'd never get all the oil out unless you dismantled the top end. You're time would be better spent cleaning engine bay, so you could watch for all the known leaks a 7.3 will have over the years. BTW, I'm still running the original injectors... pulled them once to change o-rings and reset gaps. As long as its still getting 16 mpg and purrs like a kitten, I'm not touching the injecters until they start causing problems!
Reset gaps? Did you shim the solenoid’s and injector’s top plates (poppet valve, I think that’s what it’s called) In my 02’ F350 DRW 7.3 I just did my O ring seals, injector cups, new valve covers, changed oil and flushed the coolant system cuz I had fuel in the coolant. I pinched the #8 glow plug wire with the valve cover, it was not connected to the glow plug, also found the #5 glow plug was not plugged in. My truck starts up fine but smokes like a train, then ends up stalling and sometimes hydro locking. I’m still in the middle of working on it, Any thoughts, Advice or Comments will be appreciated. It never smoked until I replaced the O ring seals, and the turbo ain’t right either. I’m 50 now, been an AC technician since 2000, So I’m familiar with working on difficult things. TH-cam does have helpful videos but I have to sift through plenty of them to find reliable info
Thanks for the video. I understand your opinion. I do it about every other oil change, usually in the fall. I just can't stand putting brand new oil in the engine and leaving close to a quart of dirty oil in there that I can replace also. I guess I'm just anal like that. Makes me feel better and doesn't take long. I'm on my second 7.3 with close to 500k and just recently changed my injectors for the first time. Not because it needed them, but due to a performance towing upgrade. It doesn't hurt anything.
I watched and commented on your debunked video about this,and I’m a stickler for getting as most dirty oil out I can but after my last go round I’ve decided I’ll just drop the oil a lil earlier and save my effort.
I do a lot of pulling a trailer that’s 3200 lbs empty and around 7500 lbs full with my 7.3 with a lot of stopping and going. I use rotella T6 with a quart of Lucas with around 5000-6000 miles between changes. I’m at about 350k miles, have never changed the hpop res and have never had any motor issues.
you have obviously had good success but Lucas is generally not recommended because it can start foaming and that’s not good for the HEUI system. You probably have been saved by the anti foaming and other great properties of the T6. It is what I run too. Good stuff . Hard to find now
Sorry but the oil in the hpop makes a huge difference.. I don’t care what way you spin it.. I have personally noticed a difference once I started to change it. I will continue to change it on my 7.3. If y’all don’t fine. It’s your truck.. made a difference for me so i will keep doing it.. just a tip from a life long mechanic in Ohio.
Great video! I appreciate the time you tok to really go into the upper oil reservoir. powerstrokehelp channel has a video discussing the fact that the LPOP being warn, can allow oil to leak back into pan (overnight) and that it take some time to pump it back up into the channels and eventually the reservoir and HPOP... and that this can lead to cold start issues (like both mine and my buddies 2000 7.3L). A simple test is to crank the engine until there's oil pressure (according to gauger on dash), then crank again to start. I tried this at 63˚, a temp my truck would never start at. It worked. After several times of long cranking, oil pressure came up, then truck started. So maybe changing this upper oil reserve is not necessary when oil leaks back into pan, b/c it just mixes with the oil in pan. I have also read comments about people discovering a sludge build up in this upper oil reserve. SO maybe an inspection is worth it. PSH channel also discusses putting an oil additive in w/ oil when changing this upper reservoir oil, likely to help clean and preserve injectors. For me, peace of mind vs. saving a few hundred bucks serves me. maybe not others. Since most of have well over the value of th ruck into it already, I don't mind being a bit overboard on preventative maintenance. thanks again, and nice of you to inform and then emphasize people get to make their own decisions. That's a great approach.
The best thing you can do for any HEUI system is to know how to keep the maintenance up. T6 full synthetic oil and using your fuel and oil additives. My customers I've always recommended to grab some Rev-x fuel and oil additives, it makes a tremendous difference in how the engine will run.
Only reason I change my hpop oil sometimes is because I try to remove as much of the old oil as possible. When I do the oil stays cleaner and yellow for almost a month. I don't do it every time.but a few times a year.
great info when I do the oil change,I always drain the HPOP and fill it up with new oil,but after that the “sinkhole”starts,I couldn’t top off the oil,now I understood what is happening thank you so much 😊 sir.
My friend did an oil change and changed the hpop oil. Then he changed the injectors either 50 or 500 miles later. The oil on the dipstick was light brown but when he removed the oil rail drain plugs under the valve covers, the oil was as black as Wesley Snipes. So there is oil flow to the reservoir but not so much in the rail I guess. You said you have over 800,000 miles on your 7.3l and never changed it so that to me is proof enough that this is a waste of time. What oil do you use btw?
Thank you so much for your video and your time... I can work on gas engines and needed a little guidance for my 7.3 turbo. Your explanation of the 7.3 is amazingly useful 👌 👍🏼 👏
I know the low pressure pump keeps the hpop res full and circulates , its all one system Ive been sucking out the res on every ojl change but ive been putting in Archoil additive Directly in res so it gets to injectors at full strength upon startup And then gets diluted as engine runs 800k miles and still have same original hpop and injectors The stuff keeps injectors from the stiction problems and no gummy or sluggish problems
I guess in my opinion, or 2cent, yeah maybe you don't have to ever change it, but think it's like wiping your ass, yeah you don't have to, but life is much better if you do!
Very interesting, I never knew that completely how it worked and flowed. I don't think I'll be doing it anymore. Thanks for your good video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I like the in depth explanations as to why you do the things you do. Some people would maybe call it a little OCD. I have been called that myself. I've saved many of your videos. My truck is a 2002 F250 7.3. As of now she's a classic and I try to take care of her and your videos help.
There is still old oil in the HPOP and injectors. Will dirty your oil. It does circulate when engine is running. I’ve done what they do my oil stayed cleaner a little longer
That's why regular oil changes are so important to combat the oil that still remains. I've been told on any HEUI system,whatever the oil change service mileage recomendation the manufacturer calls for,change it in half of the allowed mileage.
I never understood why people changed that oil. It's just oil picked up from the oil pan, and in comparison to the 15 quarts the engine takes, changing out that little bit really wont make any difference.
Why would you not change the quart of oil in the HPOP tank when you change your oil. I’ve had 7.3 ‘s since 1999 and I have changed oil both ways. If you don’t change the oil the new oil is black right away. It’s not a big deal to change the oil in in the HPOP tank. But that is only my opinion. I try to take care of my truck (That’s All)
All oil is made of molecules. When the oil undergoes pressure, the molecules eventually shear and break down resulting in sludge. Filter housing has to be removed to access HPOP cover bolts. Use tubing instead to suck out oil and replace with funnel.
Makes sense. Its not hurting anything however based on this information. That inspection plug might leak if not resealed properly. Thats about it. And why does the oil coming out always look so awful even after fresh oil changes?
I sme ways and think draining your oil and then filling with clean , cheap oil, running it 10 min and dumping it woukd clean everything out. Then change the filter and put in your oil of choice. I would clean out the heads and reservoir. Do that maybe once every couple of years.
Even if it didn't have the overflow pour the oil back down into the bottom. The oil is constantly being pulled away and used by the injectors. So it would still constantly be repolishing itself that way too. lol. People are funny.
one thing that seems like one should service ,,, check clean ,, is that filter ,, omg really fine mesh .. yes i think that should be serviced , maybe once year ,, or lots miles ,,
So I took my oil reservoir off, mine did not have a filter but when I bought a new it did. So I still route the new one on. Well it seem like the gasket was to thick and would not tighten down enough. Any thoughts or tips
Best thing you can do is change your role before it gets black If it is black dump some cheap oil in there with some transmission fluid let it run for a little bit and then change it again And then start changing it before it gets black and it'll never be black again
If the oil in the reservoir doesn't drain back to the oil pan during oil changes, a quart of dirty oil is going to mix with the clean oil, maybe won't be bad maybe it is bad ?
Great video-thanks. I have drained mine once a year until I stripped out the top hex plug. I could be considered a pre-maintenance nut and it bothered me not being able to suck it out. My 2000 7.3 with 190,000 miles on it. Minus rebuilding the transmission at 150,000 miles it’s been a fantastic truck that I baby.
Why such low mileage transmission changes? Got over 150k on mine with no issues whatever. I tow a toy hauler that Max wieght fully loaded is 16,500 lbs. My buddy tows heavy too. His was replaced at 350k. He's got well over 400 with no issues.
I don’t suck oil out of reservoir but I had a o ring break on ipr valve ,motor ran bad just to get it home I put oil in reservoir to get home where I had a ipr valve and changed it it ran better tip top so good to know just to get ya home! And dry sense of humor is kickin man keep it up.
doesnt hurt to try and change all the oil. it is not an easy thing to do. and the rails will be full of oil as well and a good airbubble in there is a treat to work out
Thanks for the video. Regarding 800K miles on one of your 7.3 what oil do you put in yours? I run Rotella 15w/40 standard in my 7.3 and John Deere tractors. What is "junk oil"? Thanks
A friend has the 7.3 which is new to me. My question is he's having a no start situation but will fire on ether. Trying to help him out. His mechanic replaced the sensor on top of the high pressure reservoir and they stripped the sensor port in the upper tank reserve and only will go finger tight. Will that cause on no injector fire situation? Could you test by grounding the the single wire lead to the system? Could you provide a part number for the upper reservoir cover. Thank you for your videos and your future response. My friend has lost faith in his 7.3....
www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-hpop-billet-reservoir-cover-1999-2003/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwO20BhCJARIsAAnTIVTfFqtJFqBT5qABxfeR5gn1Ff-EAoppj-5YahWHs-_x8gzHGK766GsaAn0rEALw_wcB www.ebay.com/itm/145654876066?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=145654876066&targetid=2315428266420&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9019117&poi=&campaignid=21394550841&mkgroupid=173029507588&rlsatarget=pla-2315428266420&abcId=9448521&merchantid=5299833700&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwO20BhCJARIsAAnTIVRicI80k0diu0Ql3f7PH6O3RC-n_7Dpj04DGWL3EIJYg1n4LWzDaUIaAll3EALw_wcB whats the fuel pressure at the back of the bowl and oil pressure at the head oil rail also I have 3 no start basic diagnostic video's please view those th-cam.com/video/4R-aV0zUFwU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ZJ5BSBntTzA/w-d-xo.html more in my video library
I swear by Rislone engine oil treatment 100 miles before an oil change, and Rislone Hyperlube (10%) in with the new oil. I bought my 7.3 used, and it sounded rough. One oil change per the above and I had two neighbors ask me what I did to make my truck sound brand new. I receive no benefit for recommending Rislone. This is my personal unpaid opinion.
I’m glad you made this video. I watched the other video you made before this one. I hade been changing my oil up top for a couple years. Until I dropped that plastic tube I was using to suck the oil out. Well it came loose and fell down in the reservoir. A 1995 PSD model and it didn’t make my oil pump and injectors happy. A very expensive mistake!!
Your obviously a great mechanic, I dont know why you dont believe in changing that hpop oil. If you had ever seen the difference I saw in my engine you would be a believer. However little sense it makes logically is destroyed by the proof in the pudding.
remove the tank and clean it the rest will take care of its self , folks get all shook up on this but forget these trucks are 20 30 years old and collect build up in that time
Been wanting to see this exact explanatoon, I changed mine when i did my first oil change. Truck had been sitting for 5 plus years before i hought it, but i thought it cant hurt. I noticed about a quart came out, but .ore than a quart went back in. It never overfilled telling me that there was some type of channel, probably to the pan. Nothing fot over filled, rhe oil is already getting black and its been driven less than 25 miles. 367k is what odomoter shows
I run Amsoil 15 /40. I religiously change my oil every 50,000 miles. I change the Amsoil Filter every 25,000. I have changed my oil 9 times and the filter has been 19 times. How many miles is on my daily? 489. I changed my injectors at 387. I can't remember how many were leaking down over night but it was slow starting. At least 3. I also had a little leak on 1 cup. So I did "D" all of the Above. All G.P.s, Injectors, and Cups. I test the oil with an independent lab. The results can back the same. Still in spec. Run it for 12k and resample. I would change it. The oil did it's job. One time I pulled the Hpop reservoir. Added it. 3 times. Tested that oil. No difference from the crankcase. I am coming up on another oil change... I will probably try it again.. When I am saving thousands of dollars... what is a couple of additional quarts? Not much when I am buy 2 x 2.5 gallon containers of oil. When i hit 500k i am planning a full frame off body swap and fix/ replacement of any and all necessary parts to go the next 25 years... HEY YOU WANT TO TEAR IT DOWN ?
Do you recommend replacing the resivore screen at any certain miles for preventative maintenance. I usually run Rotella T4 or T6 and change at or before 4K miles . Thanks . You put out great videos
I recommend at 300,000 intervals to not only replace that screen but clean it out and replace all sensors with ford oem and the under the valve cover wires and gasket If 7.3 psd owners all did this they would eliminate majority of problems I have a fleet of 14 7.3's in one of my business's and never ever have all these issues you see and hear about and I don't have any tuners on any of them. We do install them for customers but they get the talk of what these things do and how they shorten the life of the engine and cause problems
My 01 7.3 has 186k miles. Is a rust free truck. Has a BTS transmission with a big cooler . A coolant filter , TS6 chip ,wicked wheel, pedestal delete 4" ex. , 2wd. We pull a 5th south for the winter so it doesn't ever see snow. I'm a retired fleet mechanic so it's serviced regularly . I don't ever plan on selling the truck so I'm interested in any preventative to keep it off the side of the road. Thanks.
JUST suck it out and CHANGE IT. Mine does not have a filter on the gasket for reason. Remove as much OLD OIL out as possible and replenish with new, yes you don't have to measure it out. DEBUNKED the DEBUNKING so we don't don't need to DEBUNK anymore. LOL Thanks for the video.
I beg to differ with your opinion. I have a 1997 f250 with 410 thousand miles. I started changing that oil in the resevior at 60 thousand miles. They say just like you do that the engine oil mixes with the hpop oil. It doesn't do a very good job. The example i have is the very first time i did this i changed the engine oil 1 week prior. I drove the truck approximately 600 miles. I use schaffers 7000 partial synthetic 15 -40 oil, its green. I pulled the dipstick and the oil in the pan was perfectly clean. I removed the plug you say not to remove and pumped out about a quart. Black and nasty oil is what came out. I added the same amount back in and drove the truck for 5 min. Repeated the process 2 more times. I do this every third oil change and the results are always the same. Nasty oil in the reservoir. I know what i see and thats after one week the oil is always still dirty. You cant hurt anything buy changing the oil the way i was told by a diesel mechanic. I will continue to change the hpop oil because it doesn't completely mix with the oil pan oil. Works for me, to each his own. Anyone reading this do what i did. Change oil n drive 500 plus miles and you will see how much dirtier the hpop oil is.
Dude learn to talk faster. 5 minutes of semi-useful information in a 20 min video. Changing this oil is useless, maybe the strainer if you use Quacker State. It doesn't stay in that reservoir. The reservoir is there to provide constant head to the HPOP. The oil pump pressurizes the oil galleys in the heads to provide the power needed to force the fuel through the electronically controlled injectors. This oil is discharged out of the injector back under the valve cover during every injection cycle. Learn the HPOP oil path and don't just describe the LPOP path, which is irrelevant to this except to keep the reservoir full.
@@natwolfe8961 narcissist. wow be a dill hole then demand acceptance of a crap apology. you know settings on the video lets you speed it up or maybe find something else to watch like tik tok with your short attention span.
I hear what you’re saying. I’ve been changing all in mind for years for the past 23 years never heard nothing. I reckon it don’t matter if you do or if you don’t give me something to do anyway.
well i wish I wouldve found this video YESTERDAY!!!! lol I tried to suck it out with a one hand pump and tube only to have lost the tube down the reservoir which then I had to take apart to get that stupid tube out! Now im waiting 2 days for new filter and gaskets to arrive lol and jobs being pushed back because of this
I have a large boat with a centrifuge in the engineroom. In my 7.3 F-250 PU I drain the oil including the HP tank, centrifuge it and refill. The oil remains transparent longer by including the HP oil. If it was easy I'd drain the oil rails. I've been running and rebuilding larger marine diesels since the 1960s. In my experience the cleaner the oil is, the longer the engine life between overhauls. In marine engines, I usually get double the hours between overhauls on my engines compared to the same engines run by others. Because of the injector system, I see the 7.3 as the most unreliable diesel I've ever used. I find it hard to believe a diesel engineer designed it. I think Mercruiser used the engine for a few years but it failed because of reliability of the injector system and the average marina mechanic has no idea how it works. I use Ford parts that are slightly better than off brands, but the only way I get some reliability is to replace all the sensors, etc., every 3 years. And sometimes that's not often enough. I carry a box of spares. I'm sorry I bought it. I should have bought a tow truck at the same time.
i have a 1995 f350 4x4 crew cab 7.3 , i rebuilt the engine in my garage in 2015 and put a NEW transmission in 2 years ago, truck has zero rust and is a beast, everywhere i go someone ask me if i want to sell it LOL no way !. It is actually one of the first 7.3 powerstrokes that were made its a 1994.5 but considered a 95 some parts i have to order for 94 and some for 95 haha ! anyway great video, i never would even think of changing that hpop oil its pointless.
I’ve got only 135k miles on my 1999 f250 7.3. I think I’ll leave it alone It runs too good, I live in warm dry climate and change it when it gets 5 k miles
When this was internet legend on a must do thing. I did it somewhere around 120-140k. Well umpteen years later and 400k there really no point to it. Also, becareful it's very very easy to strip or worse case the oring so freeking crusted it ain't leaking now then ah shit it leaking now.... If you do good maintenance your gtg. But to each his owns as he stated. Does it help you be the judge. I did it more out of curiosity when I did it shit 10+ years ago. Good video
Theres nothing wrong with draining ALL of the oil. If i don't drain mine, and the heads, my oil is black in 500 miles and i mean black. When i do drain the hpop and heads. The oil is waaaaaaaay cleaner longer.
I have a 3/16 or 1/4 ni-cop metal line that I made to fit into the hole connected to a soft line and a hand pump. Been changing the hpop oil for years. 370k of towing and severe dust and heat. No reason to leave that dirty oil in there.
There is absolutely NO reason to "change" the oil in the reservoir. Engine oil is constantly flowing through when the engine is running. When you change the engine oil you have "changed" the oil in this reservoir as soon as you start the engine!!!!
I only heard about this oil change situation a year or so ago. It was through a PowerStroke Help TH-cam. Bill's reason was that the return was allowing oil to exchange and remix with the crankcase oil. It extended the life of the pump and injectors. I sampled the crankcase and the pump area when I did my next oil/filter interval change. I was interested becasuse I use Amsoil and go 50 K Intervals and Amsoil filters every 25k. I can't remember the results. I will look upLjubljana and report back. Thanks for your information. I at 477k at time.
My logic on this topic is, would you be upset if I changed your oil and kept a half cup or full cup of the dirty oil and put it back in your engine after the oil change? Would you think that's bad or doesn't matter since there's already some contaminated oil still in there and another cup or half cup of the old oil won't make any difference? My thought is to always get as much of the old oil out during an oil change as possible, just because the old oil may have abrasives and other contaminants in it, and since there's already a good bit of old oil still in there trapped in various parts of the engine, I really don't want to leave any more than I have to in the engine. I change my oil 2,000 miles before it's due, and always have, so it likely won't make any difference to my engine, since the oil left in there still has another thousand miles of "service life" left and is new/fresh enough that it doesn't matter.(I use a synthetic blend good for 5,000 miles and change it every 3,000) and have almost 500,000 miles on it. Trying to get to a million miles. I will syphon out the HPOP reservoir when I think about it, but with having over 1,000 miles of service life left in the oil, I don't always do it. I also always add just a bit of fresh oil to the HPOP reservoir during an oil change, just to ensure the fresh stuff has a chance to flush every bit of the old stuff through the oil system to disburse any contaminants into the fresh oil instead of having a possibility of keeping contaminants concentrated in the HPOP reservoir. But I'm super paranoid, and have rebuilt enough engines my self that I really don't want to have to rebuild my own engine any time soon. I also use a bit of motor coat, since that stuff is basically an additional wear additive package to help keep the oil "slippery" and extend the life of the "film strength". I also add just a bit of lucas heavy duty oil additive to help thicken up the oil since I use a synthetic blend and it seems to be a bit "thinner" than pure dino oil.
The real questions is why is the HPOP oil so incredibly black sludgy? Does this mean that screen filter is clogged which slows circulation? Changing the HPOP oil obviously makes the engine run smoother, which is either reducing injector knock or a mechanical knock. This difference is mainly noticed upon startup.
That effect comes from bad quality oil, age of unit, going way over oil changes It has been recommended in several of my videos to remove the reserve clean it and install new screen and seals then change the oil at correct intervals using quality oil and filter
I greatly appreciate your knowledge of the 7.3. I own 2 of them since 2006. A 2002 F350 and a 2003 F250 Thank you for all the help you have given me. Allen
I think it’s something good to do if ya got the time. It doesn’t matter how good of oil you have, that reservoir will hold some for easier start up and in my mind I’ve always been a lot happier if I can all the old oil out as possible when I do a service because old carboned up oil is old carboned up oil, no matter the brand. As far as those ports go, those are inspection ports, those are test ports and for pumping the oil out and that screen o-ring gasket only came stock on 01-03 models so if you got one older than that then you don’t have to worry about poking a hole in the screen but it good to replace those every once in a good while if ya service your truck regularly. Riffraf diesel just came out with a conversion block for older 7.3s to where you can use that screen oring gasket, I got the email today lol
If your gonna argue that changing the hpop oil is significant then you also must drain all the oil from the rails on the head which requires removing the valve covers. Nobody is gonna do this for every oil change it doesn't make sense. Change your oil sooner then recommended and your oil will never be the cause of any problems.
This has been up for a month and no coment!! Shux. Well i am about to buy a for f350. I've been watching alot of videos of the 7.3, and this is useful! Thank you! So, even tho the truck doesn't need a new HPOP yet..should I replace it when I put a new turbo and exhaust?.. i figured it might be a good time to do it since I will have it somewhat exposed ya know..
My HPOP is original with 290k miles on it.
I'd just leave it alone. If you ever have to replace it, it's easy to do so! Also I personally have a new one on my shelf ready to go along with a stock pile of other parts and filters/sensors. I have 2 of everything haha.
@@Joshua-yn1zx you must have some money to spare!
If you don't have a problem, no..
@@psd28 If you don't pull heavy with tunes, you would not even know if the pump was weak. Running tunes that allow higher IPR% while pulling heavy may throw codes that are not seen with stock programming.
My last new truck was a 95 F250 with the new 7.3 Powerstroke. I've since had another 95, 96, 3 99's and a 2001. I run a 99 F350 Dually as my hotshot truck and my daily driver is a 99 cab I put on a roll-over wrecked 2001. So I've learned a few things along the way with my 7.3's. For those of you who think it's necessary to pump out your HPOP reservoir, be absolutely sure to thoroughly wipe down all interior surfaces of the block and pan, and flush out all the oil galleys, HPOP hoses, HPOP oil rails and injectors. The machine shop will do all that for you at a nominal charge. I mean, if you want to remove ALL the old oil and gunk, be SURE to do it right! Keep in mind that the volume of oil that passes thru the HPOP is very high and it will replace the oil in the reservoir while driving in a matter of seconds. It's not just sitting there stagnant. After the HPOP pump sends the oil to the injectors, each injector has an exhaust port which sends to oil back to [drum roll] the top of the heads where it drains back to the - yep, you guessed it - to the oil pan. The ONLY time to suck the oil out of the reservoir is if you want to remove the HPOP or IPR without making a huge mess in the valley.
I usually don't do my HPOP reservoir oil during an oil change, except when I think about it and feel like dealing with it, but my logic is that there is so much old oil stuck in the engine already, I really don't like the thought of having that much more in there on top of that. I use an extended life semi-synthetic blend and change the oil every 3,000 miles, so any oil stuck in there would have over 1,000 miles of service life left in it, so not such a big deal.
Leaving the oil in the HPOP reservoir is the same as doing an oil change and then adding a cup to cup and a half of the dirty oil back into the engine. Just doesn't seem like a good thing.
But I change my oil often enough and use an extended life oil, that I'm not that worried about it in my truck.
7.3 is the only reason why I've become my own backyard diesel mechanic! Wife constantly wants me to buy NEW truck but no thank you! My 99 is the best truck I've ever owned I'm happy to work on it and I love spending money on this Beast!
Good choice!
Yep, my '96 F250 powerstroke is the best truck I've ever had, other than my 1987 GMC Sierra I've had since the early 90's. My dad bought it as a "program truck" that was super low miles and only 1 previous owner, and we got it for the farm. I ended up rebuilding an LT1 350 "4 bolt main" engine and put that in it and put a 4 barrel Holley quadrajet and holley intake and HEI distributor in it.
Thank you for your video very informative just had a high pressure oil pump put on my '9973 wish I had seen your video first. As time permitted would have attempted it myself and at the very least had some other questions for the shop that made the repair. Thank you again for the future we have four other seven threes in our landscaping fleet
I totally agree! My wife says the same thing, my 97’ needs o rings due to a few leaks here and there! A buddy of mine just bought a brand new f450 dually 6.7 it has every option you can think of but looking under the hood I just shook my head and and said good luck 8-10 years from now the labour to repair any thing on this will cost you $ so Iam with you , 7.3 easy to do on your own 🔧⚙️
I have a orange 99 f250 7.3l CrewCab with 78k. Best dsmn truck I've ever had, so I am with ya bro.
How can ya not love this guy for breaking this down for us thank u so much 👍🏼
Go see this video cold motor oil change started and ran under 1 minute and I show the hpop oil If this isn't proof I don't know how much more I could bring this point home
th-cam.com/video/ThwxCA93Aao/w-d-xo.html
I pull the oil out of the HIPOP and replace it and have noticed a big difference in cold starting. I also notice the oil that comes from the reseroir is quit a bit more sludgy than what drains from the pan. When I was an aircraft mechanic, we routinely had to de-sludge propellor domes and it is incredible how oil will coat the inside of a pressure chamber with a thick chewy layer of crap. It was like peanut butter. Probably not what you want in your HIPOP system. Its an extra pain in the butt but Im in alaska, so everything I can do to make cold starts easier is worth it.
this cannot be accurate sir. He clearly stated he got over 500 k no problems. It refutes your claim i think
But COLD starts matter. Wear/tear...etc.
Changing a few ounces of oil out of the H pop isn’t going to make it cold start better I don’t know where you’re getting that from if your truck is maintained properly and the glow plugs are working you shouldn’t have cold start issues my early 99 will start in subzero temperatures at the turn of the key after wait light goes out I don’t understand why so many people complain about cold starts with these power strokes there must be a lot of people with wore out components or neglect on their trucks. I think it’s a waste of time there’s tons of people out there with 500,000 miles or more on these engines that have never touched the oil in there hpop and like the video creator says if you’ve been using good oil from the beginning that shouldn’t have sludge in there to begin with and your truck will probably completely rust out around the engine long before it breaks down because of some sludge in the hpop 😅
@Dave of All Trades I did it and it so much better the oil on it was so thick and black it made the motor run was quieter
@@justinjreabcm1381 Maybe your using conventional oil? My 7.3 ha had AMSOIL 100% synthetic 15-40 as long as I have owned it and every mechanic I have had it in to do maintenance over the years always say it’s the cleanest engine they have ever seen and that I must take good care of it (which I do) so I don’t know if you guys are getting sludge due to dinosaur oil or not? With changing my oil at 5k intervals and synthetic I don’t see how sludge would ever build up anywhere in engine including hpop. But I’m no expert so just curious.
The plug is there for the purpose of sucking out the oil to change the HPOP so the oil doesn't dump into the valley of the engine. Not necessary but helps keep the valley cleaner.
Great video! Glad I saw this and stopped to watch. I've only sucked the oil out twice over the years and change at 5000 miles, now at 525,000 miles. Always thought it was a waste of time considering all the other old oil left in engine during an oil change... like in oil rails, high pressure hoses, etc.... you'd never get all the oil out unless you dismantled the top end. You're time would be better spent cleaning engine bay, so you could watch for all the known leaks a 7.3 will have over the years. BTW, I'm still running the original injectors... pulled them once to change o-rings and reset gaps. As long as its still getting 16 mpg and purrs like a kitten, I'm not touching the injecters until they start causing problems!
Reset gaps? Did you shim the solenoid’s and injector’s top plates (poppet valve, I think that’s what it’s called) In my 02’ F350 DRW 7.3 I just did my O ring seals, injector cups, new valve covers, changed oil and flushed the coolant system cuz I had fuel in the coolant. I pinched the #8 glow plug wire with the valve cover, it was not connected to the glow plug, also found the #5 glow plug was not plugged in. My truck starts up fine but smokes like a train, then ends up stalling and sometimes hydro locking. I’m still in the middle of working on it, Any thoughts, Advice or Comments will be appreciated. It never smoked until I replaced the O ring seals, and the turbo ain’t right either. I’m 50 now, been an AC technician since 2000, So I’m familiar with working on difficult things. TH-cam does have helpful videos but I have to sift through plenty of them to find reliable info
325k with original injectors and 4r100! Obviously they are tanks, I run hotshot EDT every fill up just to help.
Thanks for the video. I understand your opinion. I do it about every other oil change, usually in the fall. I just can't stand putting brand new oil in the engine and leaving close to a quart of dirty oil in there that I can replace also. I guess I'm just anal like that. Makes me feel better and doesn't take long. I'm on my second 7.3 with close to 500k and just recently changed my injectors for the first time. Not because it needed them, but due to a performance towing upgrade. It doesn't hurt anything.
My 7.3 is at 260k and I love this truck. I’ve done a ton to it and it’s fun to drive. It has a bunch of Banks and RiffRaff parts and it runs great.
LOVE RiffRaff!!
I watched and commented on your debunked video about this,and I’m a stickler for getting as most dirty oil out I can but after my last go round I’ve decided I’ll just drop the oil a lil earlier and save my effort.
Evergreen stuff here! Thanks for taking the time to share what you've learned over the years. It really is important to us die-hards out there.
I do a lot of pulling a trailer that’s 3200 lbs empty and around 7500 lbs full with my 7.3 with a lot of stopping and going. I use rotella T6 with a quart of Lucas with around 5000-6000 miles between changes. I’m at about 350k miles, have never changed the hpop res and have never had any motor issues.
you have obviously had good success but Lucas is generally not recommended because it can start foaming and that’s not good for the HEUI system. You probably have been saved by the anti foaming and other great properties of the T6. It is what I run too. Good stuff . Hard to find now
@@bch5513 I’ll have to read up on that, I appreciate the tip!
@@bch5513 We get it at O'Riley's. If they don't have it they can get it for you. Normally in a couple days.
Do not put Lucas in these engines!!!!! You will create the sludge and injector problems and harder than necessary winter starts.
You almost gave the pros but fell short. It's an expensive oil change. I change 15 or up to 25,000. Removing that old oil gives some extra time.
Sorry but the oil in the hpop makes a huge difference.. I don’t care what way you spin it.. I have personally noticed a difference once I started to change it. I will continue to change it on my 7.3. If y’all don’t fine. It’s your truck.. made a difference for me so i will keep doing it.. just a tip from a life long mechanic in Ohio.
Great video! I appreciate the time you tok to really go into the upper oil reservoir.
powerstrokehelp channel has a video discussing the fact that the LPOP being warn, can allow oil to leak back into pan (overnight) and that it take some time to pump it back up into the channels and eventually the reservoir and HPOP... and that this can lead to cold start issues (like both mine and my buddies 2000 7.3L). A simple test is to crank the engine until there's oil pressure (according to gauger on dash), then crank again to start. I tried this at 63˚, a temp my truck would never start at. It worked. After several times of long cranking, oil pressure came up, then truck started. So maybe changing this upper oil reserve is not necessary when oil leaks back into pan, b/c it just mixes with the oil in pan. I have also read comments about people discovering a sludge build up in this upper oil reserve. SO maybe an inspection is worth it.
PSH channel also discusses putting an oil additive in w/ oil when changing this upper reservoir oil, likely to help clean and preserve injectors. For me, peace of mind vs. saving a few hundred bucks serves me. maybe not others. Since most of have well over the value of th ruck into it already, I don't mind being a bit overboard on preventative maintenance.
thanks again, and nice of you to inform and then emphasize people get to make their own decisions. That's a great approach.
The best thing you can do for any HEUI system is to know how to keep the maintenance up.
T6 full synthetic oil and using your fuel and oil additives. My customers I've always recommended to grab some Rev-x fuel and oil additives, it makes a tremendous difference in how the engine will run.
Only reason I change my hpop oil sometimes is because I try to remove as much of the old oil as possible. When I do the oil stays cleaner and yellow for almost a month. I don't do it every time.but a few times a year.
great info when I do the oil change,I always drain the HPOP and fill it up with new oil,but after that the “sinkhole”starts,I couldn’t top off the oil,now I understood what is happening thank you so much 😊 sir.
My friend did an oil change and changed the hpop oil. Then he changed the injectors either 50 or 500 miles later. The oil on the dipstick was light brown but when he removed the oil rail drain plugs under the valve covers, the oil was as black as Wesley Snipes. So there is oil flow to the reservoir but not so much in the rail I guess. You said you have over 800,000 miles on your 7.3l and never changed it so that to me is proof enough that this is a waste of time. What oil do you use btw?
delo 400 is all i use
Thank you so much for your video and your time... I can work on gas engines and needed a little guidance for my 7.3 turbo. Your explanation of the 7.3 is amazingly useful 👌 👍🏼 👏
I know the low pressure pump keeps the hpop res full and circulates , its all one system
Ive been sucking out the res on every ojl change but ive been putting in Archoil additive
Directly in res so it gets to injectors at full strength upon startup
And then gets diluted as engine runs
800k miles and still have same original hpop and injectors
The stuff keeps injectors from the stiction problems and no gummy or sluggish problems
I guess in my opinion, or 2cent, yeah maybe you don't have to ever change it, but think it's like wiping your ass, yeah you don't have to, but life is much better if you do!
That's great. I'll remember that everytime I'm sucking the oil out of resivor.
Very interesting, I never knew that completely how it worked and flowed. I don't think I'll be doing it anymore. Thanks for your good video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I like the in depth explanations as to why you do the things you do. Some people would maybe call it a little OCD. I have been called that myself. I've saved many of your videos. My truck is a 2002 F250 7.3. As of now she's a classic and I try to take care of her and your videos help.
There is still old oil in the HPOP and injectors. Will dirty your oil. It does circulate when engine is running. I’ve done what they do my oil stayed cleaner a little longer
That's why regular oil changes are so important to combat the oil that still remains. I've been told on any HEUI system,whatever the oil change service mileage recomendation the manufacturer calls for,change it in half of the allowed mileage.
I never understood why people changed that oil. It's just oil picked up from the oil pan, and in comparison to the 15 quarts the engine takes, changing out that little bit really wont make any difference.
from my ESTATE NJ tengs. good video from Guatemala 🇬🇹 GOD bless America 🇺🇸
Why would you not change the quart of oil in the HPOP tank when you change your oil. I’ve had 7.3 ‘s since 1999 and I have changed oil both ways. If you don’t change the oil the new oil is black right away. It’s not a big deal to change the oil in in the HPOP tank. But that is only my opinion. I try to take care of my truck (That’s All)
what type of oil do you put
@@arian7835 the engine oil that you are using.
I use Rotella 15w-40 T4
All oil is made of molecules. When the oil undergoes pressure, the molecules eventually shear and break down resulting in sludge. Filter housing has to be removed to access HPOP cover bolts. Use tubing instead to suck out oil and replace with funnel.
I have more things to do with my time so no. I'll grease some zerks.
Makes sense. Its not hurting anything however based on this information. That inspection plug might leak if not resealed properly. Thats about it. And why does the oil coming out always look so awful even after fresh oil changes?
Let me be your editor and camera. U got so much potential here on TH-cam
Thanks, Taking video journalism and other courses
For the people that are sticklers, to get every drop of used oil out . When they do an oil change .
Give er ! I wouldn't waste my time .
The screen or filter as you call it does not come in a 97 or older.
I sme ways and think draining your oil and then filling with clean , cheap oil, running it 10 min and dumping it woukd clean everything out. Then change the filter and put in your oil of choice. I would clean out the heads and reservoir. Do that maybe once every couple of years.
Even if it didn't have the overflow pour the oil back down into the bottom. The oil is constantly being pulled away and used by the injectors. So it would still constantly be repolishing itself that way too. lol. People are funny.
This could have been a 4 minute video
one thing that seems like one should service ,,, check clean ,, is that filter ,, omg really fine mesh .. yes i think that should be serviced , maybe once year ,, or lots miles ,,
So I took my oil reservoir off, mine did not have a filter but when I bought a new it did. So I still route the new one on. Well it seem like the gasket was to thick and would not tighten down enough.
Any thoughts or tips
Best thing you can do is change your role before it gets black If it is black dump some cheap oil in there with some transmission fluid let it run for a little bit and then change it again And then start changing it before it gets black and it'll never be black again
If the oil in the reservoir doesn't drain back to the oil pan during oil changes, a quart of dirty oil is going to mix with the clean oil, maybe won't be bad maybe it is bad ?
Great video-thanks. I have drained mine once a year until I stripped out the top hex plug. I could be considered a pre-maintenance nut and it bothered me not being able to suck it out. My 2000 7.3 with 190,000 miles on it. Minus rebuilding the transmission at 150,000 miles it’s been a fantastic truck that I baby.
That sounds exactly like mine. And about the lifespan of the transmission unfortunately lol
Why such low mileage transmission changes? Got over 150k on mine with no issues whatever.
I tow a toy hauler that Max wieght fully loaded is 16,500 lbs.
My buddy tows heavy too. His was replaced at 350k. He's got well over 400 with no issues.
Just get a Cummins and save your money for bear and bait.i will be fishing while your babying that boat anchor.
I did it a couple times and thought it was a stupid waste of time. At least doing it with suction and not removing the housing was stupid.
Good video , always wanted to see inside the reservoir . Thank s
THanks for this breakdown and walk thru with a visual model.
Very Helpfull
It's constantly changing the oil in the injection system many times an hour.
Changing this is the dumbest thing you can do.
I don’t suck oil out of reservoir but I had a o ring break on ipr valve ,motor ran bad just to get it home I put oil in reservoir to get home where I had a ipr valve and changed it it ran better tip top so good to know just to get ya home! And dry sense of humor is kickin man keep it up.
oil change regularly good oil filter i use fl1995 only this thing run forever
doesnt hurt to try and change all the oil. it is not an easy thing to do. and the rails will be full of oil as well and a good airbubble in there is a treat to work out
I thought it was a thing until I found out it wasn’t necessary.Just a waste of time.
Preventive regular maintenance is key to longer engine life, period.
I tried to do mine today, could hardly get out half a quart
Thanks for the video. Regarding 800K miles on one of your 7.3 what oil do you put in yours? I run Rotella 15w/40 standard in my 7.3 and John Deere tractors. What is "junk oil"?
Thanks
th-cam.com/video/ZY1pOBFCFj0/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/uD0nUcHULbc/w-d-xo.html
Could you make a video on how to properly replace the o rings on the hpop fittings and which o rings to use
A friend has the 7.3 which is new to me. My question is he's having a no start situation but will fire on ether. Trying to help him out. His mechanic replaced the sensor on top of the high pressure reservoir and they stripped the sensor port in the upper tank reserve and only will go finger tight. Will that cause on no injector fire situation? Could you test by grounding the the single wire lead to the system? Could you provide a part number for the upper reservoir cover. Thank you for your videos and your future response. My friend has lost faith in his 7.3....
www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-hpop-billet-reservoir-cover-1999-2003/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwO20BhCJARIsAAnTIVTfFqtJFqBT5qABxfeR5gn1Ff-EAoppj-5YahWHs-_x8gzHGK766GsaAn0rEALw_wcB www.ebay.com/itm/145654876066?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=145654876066&targetid=2315428266420&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9019117&poi=&campaignid=21394550841&mkgroupid=173029507588&rlsatarget=pla-2315428266420&abcId=9448521&merchantid=5299833700&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwO20BhCJARIsAAnTIVRicI80k0diu0Ql3f7PH6O3RC-n_7Dpj04DGWL3EIJYg1n4LWzDaUIaAll3EALw_wcB
whats the fuel pressure at the back of the bowl and oil pressure at the head oil rail
also I have 3 no start basic diagnostic video's please view those th-cam.com/video/4R-aV0zUFwU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ZJ5BSBntTzA/w-d-xo.html more in my video library
I swear by Rislone engine oil treatment 100 miles before an oil change, and Rislone Hyperlube (10%) in with the new oil.
I bought my 7.3 used, and it sounded rough. One oil change per the above and I had two neighbors ask me what I did to make my truck sound brand new.
I receive no benefit for recommending Rislone. This is my personal unpaid opinion.
Good job anything to stop stick sion and build up
I’m glad you made this video. I watched the other video you made before this one. I hade been changing my oil up top for a couple years. Until I dropped that plastic tube I was using to suck the oil out. Well it came loose and fell down in the reservoir. A 1995 PSD model and it didn’t make my oil pump and injectors happy. A very expensive mistake!!
Your obviously a great mechanic, I dont know why you dont believe in changing that hpop oil. If you had ever seen the difference I saw in my engine you would be a believer. However little sense it makes logically is destroyed by the proof in the pudding.
remove the tank and clean it the rest will take care of its self , folks get all shook up on this but forget these trucks are 20 30 years old and collect build up in that time
THANKS. FOR. THE. INDEPT. BREAKDOWN. ❤❤❤ ! .
Been wanting to see this exact explanatoon, I changed mine when i did my first oil change. Truck had been sitting for 5 plus years before i hought it, but i thought it cant hurt. I noticed about a quart came out, but .ore than a quart went back in. It never overfilled telling me that there was some type of channel, probably to the pan. Nothing fot over filled, rhe oil is already getting black and its been driven less than 25 miles. 367k is what odomoter shows
Another great video, I dont think anyone on TH-cam has done a explanation like that in detail 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
I run Amsoil 15 /40. I religiously change my oil every 50,000 miles. I change the Amsoil Filter every 25,000. I have changed my oil 9 times and the filter has been 19 times. How many miles is on my daily? 489. I changed my injectors at 387. I can't remember how many were leaking down over night but it was slow starting. At least 3. I also had a little leak on 1 cup. So I did "D" all of the Above. All G.P.s, Injectors, and Cups. I test the oil with an independent lab. The results can back the same. Still in spec. Run it for 12k and resample. I would change it. The oil did it's job. One time I pulled the Hpop reservoir. Added it. 3 times. Tested that oil. No difference from the crankcase. I am coming up on another oil change... I will probably try it again.. When I am saving thousands of dollars... what is a couple of additional quarts? Not much when I am buy 2 x 2.5 gallon containers of oil.
When i hit 500k i am planning a full frame off body swap and fix/ replacement of any and all necessary parts to go the next 25 years... HEY YOU WANT TO TEAR IT DOWN ?
That oil plug is also used for initial priming
So basically it’s a waste of time to waste your time !
Do you recommend replacing the resivore screen at any certain miles for preventative maintenance.
I usually run Rotella T4 or T6 and change at or before 4K miles .
Thanks . You put out great videos
I recommend at 300,000 intervals to not only replace that screen but clean it out and replace all sensors with ford oem and the under the valve cover wires and gasket If 7.3 psd owners all did this they would eliminate majority of problems I have a fleet of 14 7.3's in one of my business's and never ever have all these issues you see and hear about and I don't have any tuners on any of them. We do install them for customers but they get the talk of what these things do and how they shorten the life of the engine and cause problems
My 01 7.3 has 186k miles. Is a rust free truck. Has a BTS transmission with a big cooler . A coolant filter , TS6 chip ,wicked wheel, pedestal delete 4" ex. , 2wd.
We pull a 5th south for the winter so it doesn't ever see snow. I'm a retired fleet mechanic so it's serviced regularly .
I don't ever plan on selling the truck so I'm interested in any preventative to keep it off the side of the road.
Thanks.
JUST suck it out and CHANGE IT. Mine does not have a filter on the gasket for reason. Remove as much OLD OIL out as possible and replenish with new, yes you don't have to measure it out. DEBUNKED the DEBUNKING so we don't don't need to DEBUNK anymore. LOL Thanks for the video.
I beg to differ with your opinion. I have a 1997 f250 with 410 thousand miles. I started changing that oil in the resevior at 60 thousand miles. They say just like you do that the engine oil mixes with the hpop oil. It doesn't do a very good job. The example i have is the very first time i did this i changed the engine oil 1 week prior. I drove the truck approximately 600 miles. I use schaffers 7000 partial synthetic 15 -40 oil, its green. I pulled the dipstick and the oil in the pan was perfectly clean. I removed the plug you say not to remove and pumped out about a quart. Black and nasty oil is what came out. I added the same amount back in and drove the truck for 5 min. Repeated the process 2 more times. I do this every third oil change and the results are always the same. Nasty oil in the reservoir. I know what i see and thats after one week the oil is always still dirty. You cant hurt anything buy changing the oil the way i was told by a diesel mechanic. I will continue to change the hpop oil because it doesn't completely mix with the oil pan oil. Works for me, to each his own. Anyone reading this do what i did. Change oil n drive 500 plus miles and you will see how much dirtier the hpop oil is.
Dude learn to talk faster. 5 minutes of semi-useful information in a 20 min video. Changing this oil is useless, maybe the strainer if you use Quacker State. It doesn't stay in that reservoir. The reservoir is there to provide constant head to the HPOP. The oil pump pressurizes the oil galleys in the heads to provide the power needed to force the fuel through the electronically controlled injectors. This oil is discharged out of the injector back under the valve cover during every injection cycle. Learn the HPOP oil path and don't just describe the LPOP path, which is irrelevant to this except to keep the reservoir full.
Sorry can't talk any faster do to a small stroke
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Sorry to hear that. Accept my apologies. The other still applies.
@@natwolfe8961 narcissist. wow be a dill hole then demand acceptance of a crap apology. you know settings on the video lets you speed it up or maybe find something else to watch like tik tok with your short attention span.
I hear what you’re saying. I’ve been changing all in mind for years for the past 23 years never heard nothing. I reckon it don’t matter if you do or if you don’t give me something to do anyway.
well i wish I wouldve found this video YESTERDAY!!!! lol I tried to suck it out with a one hand pump and tube only to have lost the tube down the reservoir which then I had to take apart to get that stupid tube out! Now im waiting 2 days for new filter and gaskets to arrive lol and jobs being pushed back because of this
I have a large boat with a centrifuge in the engineroom. In my 7.3 F-250 PU I drain the oil including the HP tank, centrifuge it and refill. The oil remains transparent longer by including the HP oil. If it was easy I'd drain the oil rails. I've been running and rebuilding larger marine diesels since the 1960s. In my experience the cleaner the oil is, the longer the engine life between overhauls. In marine engines, I usually get double the hours between overhauls on my engines compared to the same engines run by others.
Because of the injector system, I see the 7.3 as the most unreliable diesel I've ever used. I find it hard to believe a diesel engineer designed it. I think Mercruiser used the engine for a few years but it failed because of reliability of the injector system and the average marina mechanic has no idea how it works. I use Ford parts that are slightly better than off brands, but the only way I get some reliability is to replace all the sensors, etc., every 3 years. And sometimes that's not often enough. I carry a box of spares. I'm sorry I bought it. I should have bought a tow truck at the same time.
You're my new favorite channel. The information you're giving me on my new baby is phenomenal. Can you add the 6g72 also? LMAO
i have a 1995 f350 4x4 crew cab 7.3 , i rebuilt the engine in my garage in 2015 and put a NEW transmission in 2 years ago, truck has zero rust and is a beast, everywhere i go someone ask me if i want to sell it LOL no way !. It is actually one of the first 7.3 powerstrokes that were made its a 1994.5 but considered a 95 some parts i have to order for 94 and some for 95 haha ! anyway great video, i never would even think of changing that hpop oil its pointless.
Thank you for the detailed video, great job👍
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve got only 135k miles on my 1999 f250 7.3. I think I’ll leave it alone It runs too good, I live in warm dry climate and change it when it gets 5 k miles
When this was internet legend on a must do thing. I did it somewhere around 120-140k. Well umpteen years later and 400k there really no point to it. Also, becareful it's very very easy to strip or worse case the oring so freeking crusted it ain't leaking now then ah shit it leaking now....
If you do good maintenance your gtg. But to each his owns as he stated. Does it help you be the judge. I did it more out of curiosity when I did it shit 10+ years ago. Good video
Thank you my brother love my 7.3 l 285,000 and still going
290k on mine and the truck is falling apart from age but the motor still runs like a top lol
Theres nothing wrong with draining ALL of the oil. If i don't drain mine, and the heads, my oil is black in 500 miles and i mean black. When i do drain the hpop and heads. The oil is waaaaaaaay cleaner longer.
I have a 3/16 or 1/4 ni-cop metal line that I made to fit into the hole connected to a soft line and a hand pump. Been changing the hpop oil for years. 370k of towing and severe dust and heat. No reason to leave that dirty oil in there.
Great video, still going to suck it out and change it for the extra mile. Tho I would recommend changing it at least when you change from 0w to 15w….
Theirs a easier way just remove the anti drain ball in the block
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I’ve seen your video on that, was thinking about it
Great info buddy! Thanks for sharing! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
There is absolutely NO reason to "change" the oil in the reservoir. Engine oil is constantly flowing through when the engine is running. When you change the engine oil you have "changed" the oil in this reservoir as soon as you start the engine!!!!
I only heard about this oil change situation a year or so ago. It was through a PowerStroke Help TH-cam. Bill's reason was that the return was allowing oil to exchange and remix with the crankcase oil. It extended the life of the pump and injectors. I sampled the crankcase and the pump area when I did my next oil/filter interval change. I was interested becasuse I use Amsoil and go 50 K Intervals and Amsoil filters every 25k. I can't remember the results. I will look upLjubljana and report back. Thanks for your information. I at 477k at time.
50K intervals on oil changes and you're worried about oil left in the HPOP?
Leftover oil in the HPOP is the LAST thing you should be worried about if you're only changing the oil every 50K miles....
🤣 50😂😂😂
Fantastic video, thank you.
Thank you too!
Great video!
Just curious, are you from Minnesota?? Or somewhere nearby?
My logic on this topic is, would you be upset if I changed your oil and kept a half cup or full cup of the dirty oil and put it back in your engine after the oil change?
Would you think that's bad or doesn't matter since there's already some contaminated oil still in there and another cup or half cup of the old oil won't make any difference?
My thought is to always get as much of the old oil out during an oil change as possible, just because the old oil may have abrasives and other contaminants in it, and since there's already a good bit of old oil still in there trapped in various parts of the engine, I really don't want to leave any more than I have to in the engine.
I change my oil 2,000 miles before it's due, and always have, so it likely won't make any difference to my engine, since the oil left in there still has another thousand miles of "service life" left and is new/fresh enough that it doesn't matter.(I use a synthetic blend good for 5,000 miles and change it every 3,000) and have almost 500,000 miles on it. Trying to get to a million miles.
I will syphon out the HPOP reservoir when I think about it, but with having over 1,000 miles of service life left in the oil, I don't always do it.
I also always add just a bit of fresh oil to the HPOP reservoir during an oil change, just to ensure the fresh stuff has a chance to flush every bit of the old stuff through the oil system to disburse any contaminants into the fresh oil instead of having a possibility of keeping contaminants concentrated in the HPOP reservoir. But I'm super paranoid, and have rebuilt enough engines my self that I really don't want to have to rebuild my own engine any time soon.
I also use a bit of motor coat, since that stuff is basically an additional wear additive package to help keep the oil "slippery" and extend the life of the "film strength". I also add just a bit of lucas heavy duty oil additive to help thicken up the oil since I use a synthetic blend and it seems to be a bit "thinner" than pure dino oil.
I have a 2002 7.3 what is a symptoms of a low pressure pump going bad?
When you said "put your favorite stickers on it" i went and got a Supreme stickers. Now its a hype 7.3
Great video thank you for the help Iv never seen I broken down like this! HUGE HELP🤙🏼🤙🏼
WOW! 5k. I always did 3k. But that’s cool. I didn’t know you could go up to 5k. Thx. Love the video.
thank u
The real questions is why is the HPOP oil so incredibly black sludgy? Does this mean that screen filter is clogged which slows circulation? Changing the HPOP oil obviously makes the engine run smoother, which is either reducing injector knock or a mechanical knock. This difference is mainly noticed upon startup.
That effect comes from bad quality oil, age of unit, going way over oil changes It has been recommended in several of my videos to remove the reserve clean it and install new screen and seals then change the oil at correct intervals using quality oil and filter
the video thumbnail is nearing click bait
I greatly appreciate your knowledge of the 7.3.
I own 2 of them since 2006.
A 2002 F350 and a 2003 F250
Thank you for all the help you have given me.
Allen
I did it once and the oil was the same as the rest of the oil I drained. I didn't see any sludge at all so I don't do it.
So how come the oil in the pan is nice an clean but the oil in the reservoir is thick an dark ?
I think it’s something good to do if ya got the time. It doesn’t matter how good of oil you have, that reservoir will hold some for easier start up and in my mind I’ve always been a lot happier if I can all the old oil out as possible when I do a service because old carboned up oil is old carboned up oil, no matter the brand. As far as those ports go, those are inspection ports, those are test ports and for pumping the oil out and that screen o-ring gasket only came stock on 01-03 models so if you got one older than that then you don’t have to worry about poking a hole in the screen but it good to replace those every once in a good while if ya service your truck regularly. Riffraf diesel just came out with a conversion block for older 7.3s to where you can use that screen oring gasket, I got the email today lol
Are not inspection ports*
If your gonna argue that changing the hpop oil is significant then you also must drain all the oil from the rails on the head which requires removing the valve covers. Nobody is gonna do this for every oil change it doesn't make sense. Change your oil sooner then recommended and your oil will never be the cause of any problems.
You made perfect sense make sense more sense to just clean it and replace the filter