Installing a Mosfet - Anet A8 3d Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ม.ค. 2017
- I install a mosfet on my 3D printer to help safely regulate the power from the power supply.
mosfet: www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-He...
If that link doesn't work, just search up Ebay or Aliexpress.com. They are all over the place for anywhere between $8.00-$15.00 depending on seller, shipping, etc.
Use a good size wire from the power supplies and bed. I would say 14 gauge minimum, 12 gauge even better.
The crimps I used are for 14 gauge and just barely fit the opening under the screw.
It continues to work fine as I demonstrated, but you can find more information here: 3dprint.wiki/
I'm not an electrician. Do your research! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks for adding the gauge suggestion! Saved me some research
That little 4 pin chip like component behind the signal wire, is a bridge rectifier. It takes the signal in either polarity and makes sure the positive is presented on the correct output pin. So polarity doesn't matter if your MOSFET breakout board has that little rectifier chip.
EXCELLENT INFORMATION. I can see the 4 pin chip and no other components but the MOSFET itself which is attached to the heat sink (some people may believe that the MOSFET (Metal Oxide Field Effect Transistor) is the whole assembly which is not the case hence the confusion (I think).
Yes! Didn't even think to look. Thank you.
Great info! I look forward to being able to identify components on circuit boards just by looking at them..
Very helpful explanation of wiring the MOSFET and the second power supply is an interesting idea. Thanks!
I made my own MOSFET controller. I made a low side driver and just soldered a wire from the gate of the old MOSFET on the current controller and hooked it to mine. It took perhaps 15 minutes, besides the time it took me to make the board with the new MOSFET on it.
gotta love those harbor freebie multimeters. i've got about a dozen of them that i use wherever i dont want to risk my expensive one. they're pretty good too, for a $0 price tag.
I need to get a few! I'm always using a 20-25% off coupon so maybe one day I'll have to go back and get something else cheap to get the multimeter.
Thanks for sharing. Good to see a different method
I can confirm the mosfet board control connector does not matter about the polarity, the little component next to the jst connector, part no MB6S is a bridge rectifier that ensures the correct input to the board regardless.
I just fitted one as I needed to replace a faulty mosfet and this is the same as my new one.
Very helpful! Thanks for making and posting this video!
Love this. I went to add my mosfets and I was like damn what is that 2 pin connection for lmao. Thanks for this video! I hope you're getting plenty of youtube dolla dolla bills from it. My only suggestion is that anyone else that does this should run two wires straight to the power supply, not splice the wires through to the mother board. The whole idea here is to save your mobo and drawing current from both off the same wire may work but isn't the best idea. There are two extra + and two extra - on your power supply to hook into. Use them for both your mosfets. Although I do love the idea of using an atx power supply to run the board. I have several old cases I can salvage a unit from. And on that subject I've always wanted to make one of those power boxes where you can plug into the various ports and change the voltage, if not turn a switch.. But I think this would work pretty well with an old power supply and a 3d printed box. Would work also to power one of my old but still awesome car stereo headsets to run some speakers in the garage.
Subscribed!
hellyea it was helpful! Did you bother to try this unit out with the factory equipment? or just go right to the mods everyone is doing? Thanx, G.
Very good job on attaching your spade lugs especially the soldered joint which looks outstanding!. I have noticed that the crimp on terminals and butt splices manufactured in China are very poor quality compared to those produced previously in Taiwan and elsewhere so soldering is a reasonable second step if you see similar quality issues.
+Chuck Patten thanks Chuck
Very well done.
FREE WITH PURCHASE!
Thanks for the informative video
As far as I know this is the best price. It's for 146.99 USD from EU warehouse (no tax in EU and fast shipping)
couponsgearbest.com/2017/06/15/anet-a8-3d-printer-eu-plug-active-coupon-price-gearbest-2/
See ya
th-cam.com/video/NDqpMcGiFNM/w-d-xo.html
24 pin , it's the name of the "fat" black wire:)
Would you be able to help me with mine I have a mp select mini v2 and I got a aftermarket it that needs a power supply and the mosfit. But I don't know what cables to us or how to do it.
Regarding the wires, should the default ones that come with the A8 be substantial?
Hello, i have the exact same mosfet module that i want to install to control the extruder and the hotbed. However, when i do all the wiring as you explain, the heat does not go up and the mosfet module starts heating up like crazy (goes from room temperature to "so hot you can no longer touch it" in about 15 seconds). I have tried interchanging the wires, but it still did not change this. It happens with both the extruder mosfet module and the headbed mosfet module. What did i miss? Thanks.
Hello all!
Apsoluut A Good Video, BUT .........
Just had a car relay not been good enough???
(I ask this elsewhere too!)A relay I guess is just as good!
.
And indeed, is the ATX is good enough??? Ampères???
.
Kind regards
Rob.
is there a reason you don't have the main board running off of the ATX PSU?
i bought 3 diy 3d printers and installed 2 mosfits to each one, someone needs to do a straight forward auto bed leveling sensor install and setup
you have RAMPS 1.4 board? if so, are you using skynet?
Do you need to buy the JST connector? He doesn't mention it in the video but on the wiki page it says you do.
+Jonathan Kim it depends on the seller. Most of them include that little Jst connector and wire. Mine did not. I used one I had.
One question, after installing the mosfet the nozzle fan starts working very fast and making a lot of noise. I have noticed that if I connect just the power wires (positive of the mosfet with the 9 of the power source and negative of the mosfet and the 6 of the power source) just with this the fan starts turning like to a 500% lol
Do u have any suggestion? can u figure out what may be the problem?
Lol good to see someone doing what I'm about to do.
Hi Mr.Gabor It’s Me Swastika
I just put my hotbed mosfet in. But my question is, is there one that evens out the power coming from the PS to the Main board? This mosfet basically sends power right from the mosfet connectors to the PS and not through the mosfet (accept for the hotbed). I see photos of people showing the power in connector from the PS melting. Just wondered why there doesn't seem to be one just for the PS.
+Tom Rabel hey Tom. I sure would like to help, but I'm not quite following your question. I think most of the electrical strain is removed from the board once the power is "re-routed" through the mosfet to the hotbed. I have seen people using a second mosfet to use with the extruder if you are still concerned with that power draw through the board. I'm not sure if I'm addressing your concerns. Maybe someone else on here will chime in.
I think you answered it. I'm not an electronics expert by any means so my question may have not been worded properly. I understand now that the strain comes from the components (bed and hot end) drawing power through the main board and not so much the direct power coming in. Is that right?
can u send me the link for the orange screen frame ?
will this help?
... because mine just burnt the both - & + on the 4 pins connector but the other - & + for extruder on ramps 1.4 works just fine.
so should i desolder and replace the 4 pins connector and place this external MOSFET Board for heatbed? or i should replace the whole board?
I hope you figured it out at least by testing.. If your hotbed terminal burned out but your board still works you might be able to still make a mosfet work.. either way even if you have to get a new board get the mosfet! Oh and if you replace the board get a SKR 1.3 with 2208 drivers costs the same as a replacement board ($50ish) and your printer will run completely silent.
This didn't help my situation. My board you can tell they've dealt with complaints, as the board connectors for Hot bed and power were improved. Unfortunately the extruder connector was the under rated 10a crappy connector and after 5 hours in, the connector melted and I had to solder my own terminal to the board. Also, the hot bed connector (on the bed itself) melted around the negative supply, so I had to cut this away and re-solder.
In the end I downloaded a fan mounted print for the main board which seems to help keep it cool. My LCD screen no longer glitches after printing for a while so it must be working.
+ArcanePath360 sorry you had troubles. I've seen so many pictures of these connections melting on this machine. Sounds like you went about fixing it the right way. Glad to hear you got it running.
hows it held up?
What's the hottest you have heated your hotbed since this installation? Do you use it temperatures above 80 degrees C often? I installed this same mosfet on my printer earlier this week and attempted to heat to 100 degrees to verify it was working. it took 30 minutes for my hot bed to heat up to 80 then I checked and the mosfet had gotten so hot it melted the PLA+ mount that I printed for it and even after turning off the bed on my printer it continued to heat up. I'm pretty sure mine is a defective Mosfet so I'm returning it, but I just wanted to know how much luck you've had with higher temperatures so I know I'm not wasting my time by ordering another one.
+Remain Indoors I have had mine running at 110 for ABS for a spool's worth of filament. I am still using the stock psu and I turned the little pot on the far right to raise the voltage to about 14 (it was originally at 12). Never timed it but it never seemed like it took longer than I would have expected. Ended up not really liking ABS and have stuck with PLA and the bed between 60-70.
If you are sure you have everything wired correctly and are getting that kind of heat problem I would suggest trying another mosfet. It sounds scary though like maybe there is another issue as well. Not sure what it would be, but it obviously shouldn't be getting that hot. Good luck, hope you get it straightened out.
Thank you. I'm actually more interested in printing PETG which needs a temp around 80-85 and the stock configuration handles it, but I took my Melzi board out recently and the under side of the board is starting to show signs of potential failure. I'll likely try another model if I can find one and monitor much more closely on my second attempt. I definitely had everything wired correctly. I checked and double checked as well as doing some research of my own online, and it was wired as recommended. Thanks for responding, I'm happy to hear you're having good luck with your Mosfet.
As an update, I ordered the same mosfet board because I couldn't find another one, I installed it exactly the same way, and it works brilliantly. Pretty scary stuff, I saw another Amazon review saying their mosfet did the same thing. I'm just glad I tested with the box still open rather than closing it up and assuming everything was fine.
How hot does the heat sink get on the mosfet? I have one of these units and it's properly wired up and the heat sink gets unbearably hot after a minute and the bed barely heats up. Think they units defective??
+Echochrome4 could be. Mine does not heat up at all. Do you have the proper voltage selected on the power supply? (110 vs. 220?). If so, not real sure what could be causing it if you are certain everything is wired correctly. If you had another old power supply laying around, you could try it. That would tell you if it was the mosfet or a problem with the supply. Sorry I'm not more helpful.
can you also install a mosfet from the mainboard to the extruder?
From what they are saying on the FB page no its not needed but I ordered one anyway and mine's not here yet. I ordered a 2 pack of MOSFETs from amazon along with a 30A power supply. but down the road I plan on upgrading my hot end, when I move to printing Nylon
thank you
does this help with an extruder that does not reach printing heat?
+WarlockCore maybe, but I would guess not. That sounds more like a problem with your thermistor. The only way I would see this fixing things would be if you have a wiring problem, and in the process of hooking this up you just happen to correct it.
Thanks for the video it helps a lot.
Well, i am still dont have the Anet A8 :) lol just fun to watch like u have it :) :D
What i need to have with the printer so i buy it once :D ?
and btw, i am color blinded too :) lol
Thanks
+Nobel0 Jolarity I am always asking my kids what color everything is!
If you order this printer I would definitely get this mosfet to help keep things safe. You'll also need filament, I've been using Hatchbox and Inland, but there are plenty others. I would start with PLA. Then, just get the bed leveled and start printing!
The rest of the stuff is optional in my opinion. I got the igus bearings just to make it quieter. The rest of the upgrades are usually printed and added over time.
LOL
Nice, appreciate your respond.
I will take that as primary thing, safety first.
Thanks
Have a good day
Best Regards
After adding this MOSFET, My heated bed doesn't keep it's heat, will stay fine for awhile but mid print it will drop and stop being heated. All the while, the heat-sink on the MOSFET gets burning hot when it's running. Is anyone else's getting really hot? I reached out to the seller, and he sent me a new one, with the same result.
+Tetrodotoxin without seeing it, that sounds like a wiring issue. Especially if it has happened with 2 units. My advice would be to find a forum and post some pics to get advice. This Facebook group is very helpful. m.facebook.com/groups/1068531466501015/?view=group
It's My Workshop I actually did a facebook post and no one answered to my surprise. I've triple checked the wiring it's a pretty simple setup, hard to get wrong. unless one of the wires is bad (I stripped some from the original Anet power cord when I added the on off switch MOD.) I will try some high gauge wiring. thanks for your input though.
+Tetrodotoxin yep. Good luck, hope you can get it sorted.
Is the MOSFET under rated for the 20 amp PSU maybe? They should always be at least 20% over rated.
ArcanePath360 the issue was my psu was set to 220v not 110
Mine doesn't have the 2 pin thing
You could have gotten this power supply (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XTYYDN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with the same form factor as the PSU that came with the A8, but with more wattage and a cheaper price than the ATX one you bought.
Edit...sorry missed the mention about a diagram.....
Thanks!
+shane s no problem. Thanks for watching Shane!
My Heatbed doesnt heat up now and i dunno why
+Krauser II do you have any more details you can share. Did you install one of these? Checked all wires to make sure polarities match and nothing is loose? This is a great group to get answers from if you continue to have issues. m.facebook.com/groups/1068531466501015/?view=groupm
Do not use a PC PSU for that.. Doesn't put out amny amps...
"I am an electrician and I don't know if polarity matters so please do your own research as I'm doing an instructional video anyway" - no offense mate, one of my eyebrows went all the way up. That's really all I wanted to note. I'm stopping this video at this point and go watch another one without hesitation - oh wait, actually Maxx B did the research for all of us. Thanks Maxx!
I think he said he's NOT an electrician.
Hi
Not so good for tech minded. You really ought to have scripted this. Confusing,....I'll just follow the schematic
If you were tech minded you would have figured this out without the video.. or at least been able to follow along. I mean it's as straight forward as it gets!
@3:04 And this is why we DO NOT give flame throwers to chimpanzees!
A MetalOxideSemiconducting Field Effect Transistor is a remote control resistor. It has two inputs and one output. The output device in this case is a GREAT BIG resistor, a hot bed. Resistors do NOT have polarity, therefore the OEM statement stands, correctly. The main board to MOSFET board connection is a polarized signal and therefore has polarity, therefore OEM statement stands, correctly. The input power from the PSU to the MOSFET board is Direct Current, and by definition is polarized...
THEREFORE THE OEM STATEMENT STANDS, CORRECTLY.
permanent thumbs down
Dang. I’m not an electrician. I just found stuff in a forum to help and made a video while I did it. Sorry if I offended your sensibilities.
"I'm not an electrician"
*Instantly dislike and click off the video*