Anet A8 3D printer How to level your hotbed perfectly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2017
- Alright guys I promised video about bed leveling and here it is. I hope I helped.
I made new 3D bed test model in Google sketch PRO so you don't need to adjust anything just download it and run.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2113611
If you want to purchase this 3D printer here is link:
Anet A8 EU plug: goo.gl/kCzYvN
Anet A8 US plug: goo.gl/34WWUX
E3D V6 Hotend upgrade goo.gl/xbjjL5
GearBest.com -- goo.gl/pqKf6h
Banggood.com -- goo.gl/9CpYMJ
Aliexpress.com -- goo.gl/C8ndaT
3D printers parts and supplies goo.gl/NXVL7M
Cheap filaments
PLA filament goo.gl/D9jY9v
ABS Filament goo.gl/DBL1ok
Flexible filament -- goo.gl/1DMTJf
Premium/special quality filaments
APRINTAPRO shop goo.gl/sgXkAW
PrintaFix adhesion SPRAY goo.gl/Fr9tmU
Heat bed mosfet module -- goo.gl/91i7bQ
3D printing surface:
Sticker: goo.gl/WTmmiM
Glass: goo.gl/3GqP6Z
BueTape: goo.gl/7vQMYp
Switch for PSU goo.gl/sKzzkg
Rubber Timing Belt goo.gl/3xtQPv
SCS8UU-8mm-Linear-Ball-Bearing goo.gl/88pgGV
Insulation material: goo.gl/5Qbtve
Micro SD To SD Card Extension Cable goo.gl/zgKzrz
Please like and subscribe to my channel to help me making more videos.
Thank you so much for your support.
Best Regards
Nexi - บันเทิง
Hi Guys thank you all for support! Check my other videos and reviews on my channel: Here is some Tips for perfect prints:
Build it perfectly. Make sure all screws are tight and belts are not loose. Check distance on side(Z axis rods holder)
Use lithium grace to lubricate bearings to make them run smooth or make IGUS PLA bearings and use thin oil.
Level your bed on minimal 5 places(4 corners and center ) using A4 paper. Nozzle should NOT touching heat-bed surface.
Move X carrige and look for distance over whole hotbed area to make sure that nozzle is again NOT touching heat-bed.
For better print sticking use Brim option in CURA or hear spray or order BuildTack.
Try to find best settings in CURA. Use slow first layer 10-20mm/s
Average settings are PLA 200C on nozzle Hot-Bed 55C. On ABS 230-240C on Nozzle , Heatbed 75-85c (Use brim option)
Layer resolution is 0.2mm medium quality or 0.1mm to High quality
Print speed are 34-55mm/s Travel speed are 45-85mm/s
Oh boy, I found th is baaby here: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html?lkid=12711150
I boughtone:)
th-cam.com/video/O55x7B-MsE4/w-d-xo.html
thank you after watching a few others this one finally solved my problems with bed being off lvl all the time
Thank you kindly for the time to make this video. Also, your 3D printer looks really nice with orange/black.
You welcome mate! Am glad you like it. Thank you I like it too :)
Please keep making more videos about 3d printing, awesome stuff. Specially liking the upgrades you make and your review about them.
Thanks for commenting! I will :) Am glad I helped!
This is a good idea for the A6 as well.
Your printer is glorious!
My printer is coming soon, subscribed, very helpful, thanks
Nice! Am glad I helped! Good luck with your printer :)
Nexi actually I have it right now, Im working in upgrades :) so far the auto level sensor , bed chain and mosfet and installed a fan for the psu(getting pretty hot before, now it's almost ambient)waiting for a different color filament to arrive my printer is full black right now, time to print something to make it look better. Any advice is welcome :)
Good night, nexi, I have another question. You initially installed skynet version with autolevel. Then when you installed the e3d without autolevel you changed skynet version without autolevel or left the initial?thank you.
you sir just saved my day!
I allready bough a glassplate because i thought my bed was bend. it allways was completly out of level in the center and it still is.and here are you, telling me its the freckin rods which are bend XD
thx alot mister :)
Frecking rods :D You make my day ;) No problem am glad I helped :) Cheers!
I am always adjusting the height of the heated bed, haven't changed to silicon Borate glass, but when I do I am going to have a much better wway of adjusting the four corners. I am interested in which upgrade you have done with the thumb nuts Regards \C
Thanks for offering this but it helps to know what all software you're using. Seems like since you do a test run that something could be wrong and the nozzle gets damaged. What of the calibration method using g29 s1 command? Isn't that a better more certain way to do this?
Hey Nexi, another great video, thanks a million. I have a couple of questions please:
1. I've heard you say a couple of times that you filed down the cable tractor on the bed. I've just printed this and wondered, did you just "round off" that 45deg angle on each link or was there something else you filed?
2. I know from your previous videos that you tried auto-leveling but couldn't get on with it. Which sensor were you using and now that you've upgraded to Skynet, would you consider mesh leveling again?
Thanks.
can i use all this triks in my Acrylic 3DStar ?
With my Anet a8 i find the A4 paper has to be grabbing the paper a bit. Basically if i hold the paper about 100mm distance from the nozzle while its under the nozzle and try and move the paper if it bends the paper its a little firm if i can move it with out bending its about right it feels like rubbing a fine sandpaper. Then when printing i put a 15mm brim and adjust 1/4 turn of the screws as needed while its printing to get perfect height as it gives me plenty of time to mess around with it. My head bed is glass which i do like although its very temperamental getting things to stick so the bed height has to be perfect. When i was using tape on the heat bed it was a joke how easy it was to get it right but parts wouldn't have a smooth finish and the tape had to be replaced fairly often as it would pull it off most of the time.
Your tip to disable the stepper motors is really good i never did this before i always used the x/y location driver to move the nozzle this will be much faster thanks for the video.
hi mate, great video. i have an issue with my right z motor. everytime i start a print only the right z motor moves up 1cm or so. how i fix this? any help appreciated
Could you please make a video on installing the e3d v6 to the anet please 😂
nice video, thanks for sharing !
Are the x-axis rod holders from the same i3 rework from which you got the x-carriage?
Can you do a video about how to install the E3D V6 please? :)
thanks for the tips
You welcome! Please check my other videos there is so much more now on my channel.
I did the e3d upgrade recently. just have a question if you could help me out. Don't you lose a few mm on the y axis when you do the upgrade.
Can you do a video on how to install a ICE switch and how to do a mosfet
What's that Vertex hotbed material please ? I like it a lot and seems to be working really well. Thanks.
Is it the Velleman cover ?
Well done Nexi. Thanks a lot mate! One question: apart from the extra weight that it adds to the printing nozzle, why have you discard the use of any auto leveling system?
i am not sure why he did, but part of it could be his vertex sheet on it interferes with the induction sensor, i also know the skynet3d 3rd party firmware is buggy ( needed for the sensor) which can screw up the printer. he also changed his entire printing head/extruder for a bowden style, so his mount probably doesn't fit. also that kind of leveling is 'fake' it just makes the z axis go up and down to compensate for a non level bed, which slows it down and adds wears on the motors.
You read mine mind my friend! :) Thanks : )
for the bed adjustment knobs the threading has to be bored out on the y gantry plate ( as far as i know), any advice for removing the threading?
Hi Nexi, did you model those bed leveling knobs or did you download it from thingiverse?
Hi! I have a problem of retraction, I have use your retraction settings you show in the upgrade 2 video, but I still have it, any idea?
You might want to consider using feeler gauges versus a sheet of paper. Then you can be more precise since they are metal, have very accurate thicknesses and are not compressible.
Sorry if I missed it somewhere, but you talk about the paper-method and i do understand it. However I use feeler gauges, trying to be as presize as possible... Now I hear and read people talking about a gap of 0.2mm but also 0.1mm.
Do you have any idea what nozzle-bed-distance you get with this paper-methode?
Ludo De Greef Distance should be around 0.1-0.2mm. Papper A4 is around 0.1mm thick.
hi can you help im looking for the end bit that connects the chain to the fan
hey nexi love your videos
i have e3d v6 and marlin on my anet but whenever i start the print the nozzle is WAY to high above the bed i cant figure out how to fix it! please help
Lower your z limit switch
Thanks!!!!!!
I need help getting the printer to print in the center of the bed if i put an x on the bed the x is 91 and the y is 106. in the homed position off of the print area x is -33 y is -10. using marlin and cura. How do i store x 91 y 106 as center?
I know you've linked to this in another video but I can't find it. Would you post the link to the thumb screws you printed for the bed leveling? Thanks!
Here you go www.thingiverse.com/thing:1484261
what material did you use on the hotbed??
THANKS
i got this printer last friday, spent 2 days to level that hotbed. still without 100% success... :/
it looks like the middle of the bed is bent, because leading rods are ok, straight. i have checked them on the glassplate.
still working on it.... drives me nuts.. :D
Tjena mannen! Grymma videos :) Tänkte bara kolla vilket filament "märke" du använt till dina moddar på din Anet?
Tjenare! Tackar! Jag kör billigaste PLA jag kan hitta :) Men det Orange filament köpte jag fel färg men det var faktisk jättebra i slutet(Det kommer från Gearbest) www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-supplies/pp_423466.html?wid=21
Gymt bra kvalitet! :)
Aha.. tackar :)
Har du provat Hobbykings "Esun" fillament? Billiga och ska vara väldigt bra för sitt pris! hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=PLA
Thanks!
Hehehe Perkane! :)
Hi, I need help, when I print something my object hasn't the good size, the problem is one millimeter, What could be the problem?¿? thanks and sorry for my enlgish
Have you figured out how to center the nozzle on the bed? I just installed the same hot head and can't get mine to center. noticed yours is out also.
The mount for the hot head also reduces your print area as it can reach the end of the board. I'm remixing the same mount but moving it closer to the rods.
th-cam.com/video/7Ms3l5h9M9U/w-d-xo.html Check this video first.
Nexi Yeah watched that one already and still am not centered. I assume I just need to figure out the correct limit settings
Damn! You right! I think I got it. Try this:
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X-15 Y-26 E3000
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
I have remixed another mount to move the head closer to the x axis so have different settings now. But I think I have mine figured out also.
Did you just add the distance the head moves off the board to the start g code to compensate the amount it was out?
Been tempted to post a video of my setup but just don't have time at the moment
have you had any issues with your bowden setup? I've got all the parts, but was reading that they get jammed allot. have you experienced any of this?
Not at all. I never had any problem with it. But with direct drive on old x carriage I had multiple times broken filament in middle of prints. Not only that its pain to change filament in direct drive as well...
which stl u use for your Z stop ?
whould you say that this is a good beginer printer? i dont have one but im looking into this one
Its awesome! I could say this is best printer you can buy for this price!
ok im planing on getting it any tips?
Thank you for your awesome videos man!! I'm having a lot of trouble with the Z Axis you have a email where I can write to you for some help with my 3d printer
You welcome! Here: conesbb@gmail.com
Nexi thank you sir I just emailed you hopefully you can help me out with my issue
how do the hotbed nuts work?
I'm interested to know that too
you drill the threads out of the hotbed plate and use something like www.thingiverse.com/thing:2000216 to make it easier to level
I can't believe it's just for 146.99 dollars from EU warehouse (no tax in EU and fast shipping)
couponsgearbest.com/2017/06/15/anet-a8-3d-printer-eu-plug-active-coupon-price-gearbest-2/
I hope this can help you
th-cam.com/video/O55x7B-MsE4/w-d-xo.html
The stock nozzle that came with mine hangs below the nozzle, should I just shave some off or what?
No matter what I try, I can not get the bed level, I tried both, A4 Paper (Measured 0.02mm) & an Business Card (Measured 0.04mm). Both wont work, the print wont come out at all.
My bed surface has a slight dip in the center, I know it's not the rods. What can I do to fix this?
Try to use RAFT option in CURA it adds extra surface under printing model and that can fix gap.
Why don't you use the sensor you installed for leveling?
Well, I take sensor off. If you go back to my first video about upgrades you can see that I had sensor installed. That is not ''true'' auto level sensor and heat from bed can affect sensitivity of sensor. I just wasn't satisfied with results so I take it off. I still have it in workshop btw :)
Nexi Thanks!
Great video! However your nozzle looks a little worn down ;)
Thanks! I agree on that :) Feel free to check my other videos there is so much more, this video is very old. Cheers
I cannot rotate the screws under the bed so I cannot level it. What can I do?
Bert0ld0 Use screwdriver and adjust heated bed from the top.
@@NexiTech Thanks, I've actually realized that in the meantime. I feel kind of stupid, sorry for the bothering
Do yourself a HUGE favour and get an autolevel sensor so that the printer can take care of bed leveling all by itself! You'll love it I promise! I certainly do!
Well, not in near future. I take sensor off. If you go back to my first video about upgrades you can see that I had sensor installed. That is not ''true'' auto level sensor and heat from bed can affect sensitivity of sensor. I just wasn't satisfied with results so I take it off. I still have it in workshop btw :)
mines has a limit switch why
This not working for me
Dang....all I got is A2 paper
I wish 3D Printing was as easy as “Plug in, Load Filiment, Done” and not all this tedious shit
sounds like you are in a tin can, muffled. it is hard to understand you.