Testing A Common (And Cheap!) MOSFET Board
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2024
- Taking a look at a mosfet board, typically used to power the heated bed on a 3d printer. In theory, this is a very nice mosfet but mounted on this board with a full-bridge rectifier on the control input, and a optocoupler protecting the gate connection - this module is a steal!
Get yours here:
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9u2qrX
www.banggood.com/custlink/DG3...
Thanks for watching!
If you feel like supporting the channel please consider supporting on Patreon:
/ simpleelectronics
or get some cool merch!
teespring.com/stores/electron...
or buy anything on Banggood's site using my affiliate link:
www.banggood.com/custlink/mGv...
or buy anything from Amazon.ca using my affiliate link:
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/1118...
and if you feel so inclined, here is my Amazon wish list!
www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls/... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks! Going to power a 410x410 24V heated bed with this mosfet. Good to know it will work with a 350W power supply.
Let me know how it goes!
This is a great video! I have a few of these lying around and was just thinking about how they could be useful in other applications.
Thx. Nice video . I’m trying to put some heating together for my diy plastic injection machine. With Arduino thermistor control and some 12v 50w heating pipe . I ordered one of this . So if I get it right for the signal wire that supposed to be connected to the printer board is enough a 5-9v battery to trigger the heating ?
So long as the switching speed is slow, it is possible to run some TrenchFETs/HexFETs without a heatsink.
The IRLB8748PbF is well known in the mech-mod community, for having a low Rds(on) even at TTL levels on the gate.
Ordered! 😀
Can I use pwm to drive such MOSFET module to use it as high current LED dimmer?
Excelente explicación, video muy educativo, muchas gracias
Im using mks board that run 24v. can I use input signal from 24v directly? or i need to change optocoupler resistor to reduce the current?
Like cheap relay boards, the Arduino could drive the optocoupler, but the addition of the two diodes in the bridge rectifier drop the voltage too low.
Very true - but I suppose it wouldn't be much work to have a transistor switch the 24v to the gate
With having a keyed plug for the input, you could by-pass the rectifier without reverse polarity issues.
Would this mean that if I was using a higher voltage power supply (~30v) then this module wouldnt work? Due to the optocoupler routing the bed input voltage directly to the gate and the HC210N06 having a max Vgs of 25V :(
You mentioned 24V and that the input is directly applied to the gate. Isnt 20V a common max gate voltage?
With it having 5V on the output when it's off could cause problems if you want it to run motors.
I see some bleed-thru on my own hotbed Mosfets as well. Probably high impedance, running backward though the body diode of the device and should not deliver enough current to drive a motor. Back-to-back (two) Mosfets may be the solution.
I just got an SKR mini E3 V2 and apparently the heat bed MOSFET is damaged because it heats the bed as soon as I turn the printer on. Will an external MOSFET help me not return the board? Thanks, great work!
Not without modding the SKR - your bed mosfet triggers the external one so no, it wouldn't work in your case.
@@SimpleElectronics thanks, I really appreciate you answering my cuestion, you've gained a new subscriber 😊
@@Mexgadget Thanks! I try my best!
Can I connect 3x 50w 12v heating pipe on the same mosfet ?? 12v 50w x 3= 150w.. means that it’s enough 12,5A for heating the pipes ? Or?
They are so cheap that I would just get 3, so you don't have to worry about cooling them
@@SimpleElectronics true :)
Dang, i just ordered one of the better ones. But looks like the "cheap" ones are quite good, still just only a few bucks. Right now it takes about 12 minutes to warm up my bed to 110c. My guess its about 100 watts with the onboard one
Note; warming your bed faster will warp it more, especially in a cold room. I put a copper sheet under the glass on mine. VASTLY helps with warping by spreading the heat and evenly warming the bed. The parts and part cooling fan also act to pull heat from the bed, noticed bed adhesion got much better after that too
Side! Note: wonder how this will effect power delivery to the stepper drivers/motors and board itself as most people have just 250-350 watt PSU's and this can use 350+ watts. I might want to get a second 350 watt PSU just to power it
Salut 👍👋
That’s and igbt bro not mosfets
Thx. Nice video . I’m trying to put some heating together for my diy plastic injection machine. With Arduino thermistor control and some 12v 50w heating pipe . I ordered one of this . So if I get it right for the signal wire that supposed to be connected to the printer board is enough a 5-9v battery to trigger the heating ?
I would go at least 10v to be sure