RJ The Bike Guy has a whole series of videos on trying different ways to remove stuck seatposts. One of the bike shops (more a "bike boutique") near me lost interest after they found out I don't have expensive bikes.
Try taking advantage of a cold night. Put your bike outside and the seat post will shrink sligtly more than the carbon frame. Not saying it will become easy, you will still need to try hard, but it worked for me.
@@trans2860 Yea. Taking turns: - repeatedly flooding the gap with PTFE spray followed by - exposure to gentle (don't damage the carbon!) heat and cold to help distribute the spray + slight twisting would be my battle plan. Never had problems at my local bike shops, chill peops all around here.
Last year I'd bought a used Giant trance advanced 0, and found the seat post was seized. I tried multiple lubricants, and sprays for unsticking rusted bolts (like penitrine) and had no luck. I then removed the cranks and B/b, turned the bike upside down, and then (knowing the risks) poured about a litre of boiled water through the B/b shell, down into the seat tube. Gave it about 15 seconds, turned the bike back up, gave a quick tap sideways to the seat, and it came right out. I found the post had not been sufficiently lubricated on installation, and the alloy had started to show signs of oxidation, and it was the oxidation that was holding it in place. Gave it a very fine sand, smoothed it out, added a good amount of carbon paste and refitted it to my preferred position. And had no issue at all with the frame from then on.
I'd start with getting some phosphoric acid based release compound (or just the H3PO4, technical grade) and douse the interface between seatpost and frame. Above and below, so get that thing upside down and let a good amount pool into the seat tube from the bottom bracket. That should dissolve aluminium bonded parts. If you can whack it out "gently" after this step you may be able to salvage seatpost and frame. Try it also after discharging some CO2 from an inflator on the seatpost, it should contract the metal a bit and may help. If that doesn't work, you're going to sacrifice something. If the bike is more valuable than the seatpost then do a transversal cut about 5 cm above the clamp and try to "empty" the droppers contents, leaving only the outer that's bonded to the frame. This probably will need to cut more components as well as you can. I probably can't fully empty the one I have on the bike right now. Needless to say, you want to depressurize the dropper before you cut away. Now the really fun part - you grab a small saw and cut the post longitudinally without getting into the frame. You're basically going to create weak points longitudinally, then with some pliers wrap it on itself (fold it inwards) and eventually peel things off. If all else fails you ream the remaining metal bits out. This is is all slow, meticulous work so you have to be fully committed. I have seen carbon frames saved from an early dead, but also impatient attempts that simply damage them beyond usefulness.
For the question about jobs that don’t require an engineering degree, you could do all kinds of things. You could be a product or brand manager, and help shape the direction that a product line or brand goes (the types of products and their features). You could be an industrial designer and work with engineers to develop products. Industrial designers might develop the concept of a product (what it looks like, features, design elements) and the engineer works to make it a functional design.
10:36 IF you have to run mixed rotor caliper, incompatible, then try testing it with using Hayes Feel'r tool, secure the caliper slightly off centre to the to outside/left, to make room for the rivets, I had to do this with shimano brakes. if you don't have it, you can use the ziptie method. you take up room on one side press lever to, thus taking up space, tighten the bolts. if you can't put zipties from the top, put the ziptie against the disk in the middle of the pad from behind and rotate the wheel squeezing the ziptie and align the piston. if it's mechanical disk brakes pad adjustment on both sides Like TRP Spyke, which I use has, then it's easy to adjust this, just adjust pads until caliper is centred, and then press lever, and tighten bolts, and then unwind the pad adjustment little by little until each is at the sweet spot. My setup has enough power, but I gave up on SHimano hydraulic brakes, so TRP Spyke will be on for a while at least.
@@rupedog Cola works because it has phosphoric acid that dissolves aluminium bonds (and others). If your release spray is steel-specific it won't do the job. If you can't find industrial-grade phosphoric acid (or a release compound that contains that) cola does a reasonable job. Things you learn when you're an engineer and have to fix really old, seized equipment.
@@roonietunes7 not joking at all! I'm a chemical engineer that worked in marginal-operation places (e.g. landfills in developing countries). So you learn a lot of improvised technical alternatives. Not as good as the "proper" solution, but you do what you can with what you have.
You know, I was reading on the internet people should be about "this" thick. Can you just set it that way and ignore your 20 years of experience, and have it ready for tomorrow which is a Sunday? Otherwise I'm going to leave you a bad yelp review...
@@brauljo it's a joke about people going into the local bike shop having read on the internet what is wrong, or how they should set up their bike. Telling the bike shop to totally ignore any experience they have, and just set it up the way that you read on the internet because clearly the internet knows better than they do. That's why a lot of bike shops are grumpy, you don't tell your auto mechanic what is wrong and how to fix it most the time.
@@otm646 Bike shop mechanics are often wrong. I've tried numerous times to "support my lbs" and the quality of service I've had has been truly terrible. This isn't a one-off. This is the four shops in my town and the one in the town I grew up in. Bike shops should put the efforts into giving something that Online shops aren't. But, the moaning about customers and blaming wiggle for everything is bullsh1t. I hear about these great bike shops that really give something to their riding communities, but I would say this is the exception and not the norm.
For the seat post I would get a rubber mallet and bang the seat post all the way around a few times then gently tap on the top until it starts going down into the frame to break the bind, assuming it isn't at full depth already.. At this point you should be able to re atch the seat to the post and twist it out. Exercise some self control and don't hit it too hard, damaging the frame, and soak it in some kind of penetrating fluid for 24 hrs first.
Hambini has a episode of a cheap aero-bike build, where the aluminium seat post is corroded stuck in the frame. He uses phosphoric acid, pours a bit into the frame, letting it soak and removes the post. Phosphoric acid is a main ingredient of cola. And pouring cola on corroded screws is the oldest trick in the globetrotters handbook.
Stuck Seat Post, add heat to the frame down tube via hair dryer and an ice pack to the seat post - expansion and contraction of material should be enough with the lubricant to remove the post... Your are creating space between the seat post and frame tube.
Once in a bike shop in brazil, the employee told me that they wont work in my bike because it was just a cheap mtb, LITERALLY. Since then I have a much better mtb, but I would never go back to that sh*t place.
that seems to be a problem around the world... i am unemployed so my bikes tend to be on the low ed budget spectrum... and i cant tell you how often i ran into that comment in bike shops. when i was younger i went to the local motorcycle shop because those guys were nice enough and do bike service too, but most of the time you either have to do it yourself if you know how, or you have to do an extensive search for a friendly customer service that most of the time doesnt survive till the next time you need them because the big bike shops "are better" and thus the small doesnt get the money in they would need to stay.
#askgmbntech I got two problems with my Fox Factory 34 Fit4: 1. I only weigh 44kg, and when I put pressure into the fork to get ~30% sag, the fork doesnt fully extend again when I get off the bike! If I want it to fully stand up again, I only get ~5% sag. Also the return of the fork feels sooo slow, even though the rebound dampening is on the fastest setting. The fork basically got suckdown symptoms, but the problem is my weight, not the negative air chamber. The pressure charts by Fox dont include my weight. What can I do to fix this problem? 2. I havent got a suspension pump yet, and I have to use a big floor pump for tires to inflate the fork. Can I do damage to the fork or the pump by doing so? As previosely explained, I run very low pressures.
Aside from eating cake, get a rebound retune at tftuned or similar suspension expert. HOWEVER, first ensure its not air trapped in lowers. Vid on gmbn and elsewhere on releasing with cable ties down wipe seals, pull to full extension, remove ties BEFORE put bike down again. U have to push ties in futher than u might think...2 inches/50mm
@@rupedog The inaccuracy is no problem for me, I measured my Sag with the o-ring and a ruler! It needs a few more tries until you get in right, but then it works. Also I checked that the negative chamber gets filled and emptied correctly.
Probably not a great idea but my dropper post was stuck in the up position so I took it off the bike held down the tab that the wire usually pulls and hit the tube with a soft mallet a couple of times and it got it unstuck.
Then I lived it up a bit with a bike specific lubricant. Figured I’d share my solution because video wasn’t super helpful with that but there’s probably better vids out there for this.
Elliot, Very odd for carbon to seize....but assuming the post clamp is FULLY undone, if there is outer post exposed above seat tube, try pushing it in/down further to release the seizure (e.g. sit on it and ride with seat clamp loose).
Recon nie jest kompatybilny ze spacerami. Spróbowałbym zmienić korek komory powietrznej na ten z Reby albo druciarsko wcisnął coś w ten oryginalny, byle nie zatkało wentyla i nie latało luzem w środku
#askgmbntech I just switched from sram eagle to shimano 12speed, and apparently my aftermarket oval NW chainring is incompatible. The chain is too short and can't reach teeth after 5-7 fitting ones. Anyone else heard about such situation? I thought that chain lenght is one of a few actual standards in the industry. Aftermarket chainring worked fine with eagle, and shimano works fine with eagle chainring. Just shimano chain with atermarket chainring has problems. Checked two chains to be sure. Great show, keep it up!
@AskGMBNTech Hello Henry and Andrew, just simple question : why do we clamp the bike by the seatpost and not by the frame when working on them ? Keep going with the show 🤙🏼 Antoine
Your video was good. My complaint is you covered the title of your production at close to the end. I would let the title follow the video accordingly. Other then that carry on, and greetings from across the pond in N.Y.C.
The dropper guy should of put in his question what he did when he installed the dropper did he use greese, fiber grip, or anything like that. Did The factory fuck up? Shit Might just need some slack in the cable lol.
Picked up a 2020 Rocky instinct. I’m debating to up the fork travel from 140-150, what will this do to the geometry like reach, seat tube angle, and bottom bracket height. With the ride-9 geometry shift I’m also thinking of putting the angel set in to get a little slacker and possibly steepen up the seat tube angle after upping the fork travel. Is this messing too much with the bike’s original dimensions? Thanks fellas. #askgmbntech
#askGMBNTech I have a particular trail near me which starts off flowy, then turns into a steep fast section with loose rocks. I carry quite a bit of speed but need to ride the brakes to keep speed in check and even slow significantly for obstacles. Everytime I ride this trail, my rotors turn blue meaning the pads and disc need to be deglazed with emery paper. This is quite annoying and only happens on this one trail, but it is a real challenge so i keep doing it. How can I prevent glazing/overheating of my rotor? Brakes are SRAM Guide R 200mm (f) and 180mm (r), organic and sintered respectively. I have tried modulating brakes, stabbing them, more front than rear, etc, but by the time I'm done, so are the brakes!
#askgmbntech-my dropper post is returning automatically without using my lever. I’ve tried to figure it out but I don’t know what to do. what do I need to do to stop this from happening, thanks
#askgmbntech when fitting new brake pads, is there a technique on know how far to push the pistons back without loosing so much mineral oil that it moves the brake bite point father into the stroke? I have installed new pads recently, pushed the pistons and loosened the brake screw bolt as seen in your past videos but am now feeling the brake pads do not instantly contact the rotors when I squeeze the levers. brakes are not spongy but it seems that the oil has been reduced a lot more than it should. thanks and loving the videos!
What happened to "floating" disk brake frame designs? 🤷♂️ Used to be seen on a lot of bikes in the late 00s Konas, Brooklyn Machine Works, Transition etc..
#askgmbntech Hi, I'm a bike mechanic from Romania, and I'm working on mostly old school bikes and low end stuff, do you have any tips to attract the higher end bike owners? Love the show, keep up the good work 🍻
#AskGMBNTech My 1998 Cannondale Super V 700's fork is leaking oil and I need to fix it but I don't know what to do. Most of the bike shops have told me to just replace it due to it's age. What do I do?
#askgmbntech. One of my riding buddies is suffering from gradual hearing loss, he acknowledges it but needs “encouraging” to get it sorted. There is the obvious danger of not hearing traffic as well as shouts when the rest of the group have stopped for a mechanical. what things do you need to think about regarding hearing aids and mountain biking, eg, helmet fit, vibration, wind noise etc
#askgmbntech I've started getting more air under my bike (jumps and drops), which means I've started bottoming out more. If I was to add tokens, how many would I add. I have a trek remedy with rockshox deluxe RL shock and a Yari rc fork. 150/160mm travel And do I change the air pressure?
#askgmbntech I was wondering what characteristics will change for riding a 120 travel bike going from 26" to 29" wheels? I had an older trek fuel ex and am looking at the new Ripley or tallboy. Thanks. Love the channel
#askgmbntech I have a little scratch on my rockshox recon stanchion from a thorn while riding. It is very small and you can hardly see it. Is this a problem. If so what can I do to fix it?
#askGMBNtech I have just gotten a new bike 3 weeks ago. From the moment I got it the fork made this squishy sound. It's working fine. I want to get rid of the sound, what can I do?
#AskGMBNTech I’m looking at buying a new MTB but I’m not sure what route to go down. I’ve got a max budget of £1500 so leaning toward a hard tail. I’d like an all rounder that I can have a leisurely ride on or thrash some trails on. I quite like the Nukeproof scout comp or possibly a Cannondale Cujo 1 but I’m struggling to make a choice. Thanks
#AskGMBNTech I bought a second-hand bike and it comes with a Shimano (mineral) lever and an avid elixir caliper (dot), i need to bleed them but dont know which fluid to use or do i have to get a whole new rear brake. thanks
For the stuck dropper: Turn the bike around and put some WD40 or similar inside the frame. Let it soak over night. You can also heat the frame from the outside in order to a) thermally expand it and b) lower the viscosity of any carbon paste. Just be careful not to go too hot.
#ASKGMBNTECH hi there, my shock (2016 rockshox monarch plus rc3) is feeling really rough and makes a squelching noise and the stantion is badly scratched. Do you know whats wrong with it and is my shock and is it fixable
#askgmbntech hi guys you often talk about regular service of your suspension, I'm a weekend warrior and I keep my bike clean especially the seals of the suspension and I lubricate the seals and stantions of the suspension after every wash. So my question is, how often should the "regular service be? Because I ride a bit but I'm not on the bike everyday I want to know how often I should do it
#ASKGMBNTECH - I watch every week, great JOB!!! My question is I want to be able to use the large 33 foot rolls of stainless steel shift cable but I can't figure out how to make the cable ends. Please help.
Many bike shop employees truly got their heads in the clouds. I believe it's mostly because after a while they think they know it all and everyone who comes in with either a "boring job", too many questions or trying to challenge their knowledge is an idiot. But fortunately the majority is really friendly open and service minded people!
#AskGMBNTech Hello, Im planing to do a mullet bike and shorten my fox float 36 RC2 fit from 2015 20mm so it doesent change the geometry at all. However my cuestion is if i change the travel of my fork how much oil should i put in the lower legs? the amount for the original travel or the amount for other fork whith the new travel??? You are awesome by the way.
#askgmbntech Hey, I am looking to swap out my Sram GX DH seven speed groupset for a Shimano Zee groupset on my downhill bike. I know that the Shimano Zee groupset is 10 speed but I've seen some people do some custom set ups with less. Would I be able to use a Shimano Zee groupset with a Sram GX DH cassette?
1. Look for *max rider weight* restrictions! 2. Check for a fit: a) min/max *insertion depth of post in frame* > straight initial part of your seat tube determines the max insertion of the dropper into your frame (some frames' seat tubes have bents/kinks that limit insertion depth by design!) ... does it fit to match your needs/inseam length at max extension?! b) leg *inseam* length _vs_ dropper at max extension > make sure you're able to pedal at its max extension 3. Go for a dropper that has a *bar-mounted lever remote* for safety reasons (not the ones with the lever under the saddle) - this way you have both hands on the bar at all times + before you buy: figure out *lever position* (over/under the bar - right/left) and check if there's enough space for the LEVER to be mounted _and_ its CABLE to run past your brake and shifter! Be aware that a lever over the bar might cause damage should you flip your bike over for "trailside maintenance". 4. *Internal/external cable* - does your frame support internal? Hydraulic and cable driven droppers both work fine.
Contact the folks at PNW Components, they can probably hook you up with what you need. I picked up a 110 Ranier at a bargain of a deal, ask if they have any blemished droppers they are willing to sell at a discount price. 👍
#askGMBNtech Hi, so I have a cube stereo 120 pro with 130mm travel front, I was wondering if I could change the front fork for a 150mm travel fork? Love the videos and greetings from Mexico
#ASKGMBNTECH Hi there, I would like to know what do you think about fissures or cracks in the frame, even if it´s aluminium or carbon, does it has remedy ?
#askgmbntech I have managed to land myself a lovely little 1998 kona nunu that is in great condition, apart from one thing. The previous owner never cleaned it and there is a load of dried oil and dirt on the drive train and some other parts. It's a thick, solid black layer and I'd like to know what you recommend to brake this down without any damage to the components? Its so hard that I have literally had to use a pick to get off what I can, not even a steel brush worked, but there's areas I can't get to properly without stripping the whole bike down (which I'm not confident doing) and need something to ease it so I can brush it away. Underneath this dirt it's in great condition so I'm eager to get it all off. Thanks
@@rupedog I never said it was just the chain. I said it's the "drive train" meaning the entire thing, which doesn't need replacing. If it was just the chain I wouldn't of bothered asking. I was pretty clear about that in my post, but thanks for trying to help I guess.
#askgmbntech Hi, i live in santiago de chile, here we have a lot of steep and dry terrain trails, would it be better to buy a short travel full-susp bike (120mm) or a long travel hardtail (150mm), thanks.
#ASKGMBNTECH Hi I want to upgrade my brakes to saint brakes. Ive got internal cable routing, what is the easiest way to Mount the new OneDrive and get them through the frame?
#askgmbntech fellas, I’m a husky guy and weigh 250lbs. Is there a bike that is better suited to fat guys let me? I am currently running a hard tail and need a full sus to go faster down the chunk and rock gardens. Cheers!
#AskGMBNtech I got the new Canyon spectral al 5.0. It came with a bolt on chainstey protector, and the top protector and the bottom one ripped off. I want to get the exact one that it came with it. I can’t seem to find it aftermarket. Can you guys help me out? The reason this bothers me is because the bottom part of the protector hold my shift cable in place, and now nothing is holding it in place. Thanks
#askgmbntech Hey guys, I bought an YT Capra this year. When I was going for my firs downhill run, I recognized that there is a little gap between the front- and the reartriangle down at the bottom bracket and already I saw the problem that there is a lot of mud an dirt an so going in and blocking it a bit, but I have the fear that it might get damaged sometime. So what could I do to stop dirt from getting in there?
#askgmbntech Hi guys! Love the channel. I have a Santa Cruz tallboy with fox 34 with a 140 mm of travel on the front. Can I change the travel to 150? If I can, how do I do it? Also, will I be able to ride in Vallonord bike park with a 140 mm? Or is it not inuff? Thanks
Sol Bel I don’t know anything about travel adjustment, but I can tell you that 140mm is enough to ride anything. It’s just slower when the trails are really ruff
You can do this on an alloy/steel frame and a rigid dropper. But carbon and a dropper, that'S a red flag each! On a rigid+steel combo you're actually better off using lots of WD40, heat and putting the *post* in the vice and then utilizing the *frame* itself as a lever!
Le Typ why does everyone get soo worried about carbon like its strong enough to take forces of you casing a jump then it’s strong enough to take your seat post out. If the guy wasn’t such a tool and used gripper paste he wouldn’t be in this situation
@@jakeevans1129 Yes, carbon frames are designed to handle impressive impacts/forces from certain angles at certain spots. But it's a layered material and you risk damaging the seat tube, separating the first layer of fibres inside the seat tube that have bound to the dropper _(but weren't supposed/intended to do so!)_ when twisting too hard.
On an aluminum frame I would use a hair dryer to heat up the seat tube to expand it, hopefully freeing the seat post. The hair dryer should be hot enough to get the metal to expand slightly, but not hot enough to damage the metal or the paint. On a carbon frame, I don't know how much it would expand under that low level of heat compared to aluminum. If it expands decently it could still work and the low temp of the hair dryer shouldn't damage the carbon or paint. Definitely don't use a heat gun, that will likely set the paint on fire, if not the frame itself with carbon.
First of all I Love all of your Videos and they do help me so much, Keep it up! Greetings from Germany (Karim) And my question is about the MTB's from Santa Cruz (other brands like Ibis also). Are the ,,cheaper" Models like the Nomad C S as good (performance) as the top Model with the cc Frame? Because I can't find reviews of the cheaper ones and cannot afford them.#askgmbntech
@@peterlang5047 OK thanks for the quick response. And are the bikes with the cheaper parts comparable in performance or are they totally diffrent from the handling, downhill Performance? And when if i may ask, do you have a Santa Cruz?
@@peterlang5047 Oh Yeah the 5010 a really great allrounder, my friend has one and is so satisfied. In my eyes they should also review the other models and not only the High End versions. Most people cant afford bikes that costs more than 3500€. Even if they are used, they are still pretty expensive.
If all the LBS employees you run into are mean, maybe it your attitude that the problem. let me guess, they wouldn't tell you how the make in incompatible bit you bought online fit on to your bike purchased online?
Depends on the very tire, rim and frame when it comes to a fit. Your best bet (before mounting): Draw a 2.3" circle, strike a line across (the two intersecting points need to be _exactly_ your inner rim width apart!). Now draw a second 2.6" circle, intersecting at the very same points - now measure the height difference perpendicular to the line.
@@geemail369 thanks for reply but not interested for frame clearance just for head angle changes and bb height. Interesting idea about drawing it out though will give it a go
I personally ride a Nukeproof Scout (agressive hardtail) and I can only recommend it! A FS is probably faster, but the HT is really good fun! You only want to avoid fast and very bumpy terrain combined! Make sure to get agressive geometrie thought!
@@peterlang5047 The Scout actually handles slow, steep, technical terrain really well, fast flowy stuff of course like a dream. The only weakness is in really fast bumpy trails!
Melker Andersson you may not be able to unfortunately. It depends on the length of your freehub body and the width of your rear axle for whether or not you can. There are videos out there on this topic you can look for
There’s a good chance that you CAN replace the cassette with a bigger cassette. The best way to do it is to take your bike to your local bike shop and ask them to show you how to figure it out
I believe 7, 8, 9 and 10 all use the same splined free-hub body, so no issue to change.. U will need a new shifter to match, maybe a new mech if limit screws won't allow movement to the extremes.
lapierre are not bad look at the zesty, more of a trail bike, but you won't get a great enduro long travel full sus bike for that little except if it is second hand
Do you have any tips for removing a seized Seatpost? Do you find your local bike shop employees mean? Let us know👇
RJ The Bike Guy has a whole series of videos on trying different ways to remove stuck seatposts.
One of the bike shops (more a "bike boutique") near me lost interest after they found out I don't have expensive bikes.
no my bike shop employees are the best.
Try taking advantage of a cold night. Put your bike outside and the seat post will shrink sligtly more than the carbon frame. Not saying it will become easy, you will still need to try hard, but it worked for me.
@@trans2860 Yea. Taking turns:
- repeatedly flooding the gap with PTFE spray followed by
- exposure to gentle (don't damage the carbon!) heat and cold to help distribute the spray
+ slight twisting
would be my battle plan.
Never had problems at my local bike shops, chill peops all around here.
@@Aubreykun Handy dude for sure!
I don't remember him attacking a *carbon* frame though. 🤔
8:24 is what you came for
👍 if this helped
Yea always click bait with this channel...some of us need not watch a 20min video on a hundred different topics when we need quick helpful advice
Is everyone having the same problem with Giant frames and giant droppers?
Last year I'd bought a used Giant trance advanced 0, and found the seat post was seized. I tried multiple lubricants, and sprays for unsticking rusted bolts (like penitrine) and had no luck. I then removed the cranks and B/b, turned the bike upside down, and then (knowing the risks) poured about a litre of boiled water through the B/b shell, down into the seat tube. Gave it about 15 seconds, turned the bike back up, gave a quick tap sideways to the seat, and it came right out. I found the post had not been sufficiently lubricated on installation, and the alloy had started to show signs of oxidation, and it was the oxidation that was holding it in place. Gave it a very fine sand, smoothed it out, added a good amount of carbon paste and refitted it to my preferred position. And had no issue at all with the frame from then on.
I'd start with getting some phosphoric acid based release compound (or just the H3PO4, technical grade) and douse the interface between seatpost and frame. Above and below, so get that thing upside down and let a good amount pool into the seat tube from the bottom bracket. That should dissolve aluminium bonded parts. If you can whack it out "gently" after this step you may be able to salvage seatpost and frame. Try it also after discharging some CO2 from an inflator on the seatpost, it should contract the metal a bit and may help.
If that doesn't work, you're going to sacrifice something. If the bike is more valuable than the seatpost then do a transversal cut about 5 cm above the clamp and try to "empty" the droppers contents, leaving only the outer that's bonded to the frame. This probably will need to cut more components as well as you can. I probably can't fully empty the one I have on the bike right now. Needless to say, you want to depressurize the dropper before you cut away.
Now the really fun part - you grab a small saw and cut the post longitudinally without getting into the frame. You're basically going to create weak points longitudinally, then with some pliers wrap it on itself (fold it inwards) and eventually peel things off. If all else fails you ream the remaining metal bits out. This is is all slow, meticulous work so you have to be fully committed.
I have seen carbon frames saved from an early dead, but also impatient attempts that simply damage them beyond usefulness.
If it's not slammed just ride it with the seat clamp slackened off - eventually it'll probably loosen off under body weight, worked for me.
The stem as clamp method was what I needed! 👏👏
I had Hope discs on my Sram before I switched to the Tech3 E4. The brake disc is minimally thicker, but it still worked.
For the question about jobs that don’t require an engineering degree, you could do all kinds of things. You could be a product or brand manager, and help shape the direction that a product line or brand goes (the types of products and their features). You could be an industrial designer and work with engineers to develop products. Industrial designers might develop the concept of a product (what it looks like, features, design elements) and the engineer works to make it a functional design.
Great ask this week a lot of interesting stuff and I leant something, keep it up guys.
10:36 IF you have to run mixed rotor caliper, incompatible, then try testing it with using Hayes Feel'r tool, secure the caliper slightly off centre to the to outside/left, to make room for the rivets, I had to do this with shimano brakes. if you don't have it, you can use the ziptie method.
you take up room on one side press lever to, thus taking up space, tighten the bolts.
if you can't put zipties from the top, put the ziptie against the disk in the middle of the pad from behind and rotate the wheel squeezing the ziptie and align the piston.
if it's mechanical disk brakes pad adjustment on both sides Like TRP Spyke, which I use has, then it's easy to adjust this, just adjust pads until caliper is centred, and then press lever, and tighten bolts, and then unwind the pad adjustment little by little until each is at the sweet spot.
My setup has enough power, but I gave up on SHimano hydraulic brakes, so TRP Spyke will be on for a while at least.
Remove BB, put frame upside down and pour cola in the seatpost from the BB. Let sit for a few days.
Not cola, but release spray...proper thing for the job
@@rupedog Cola works because it has phosphoric acid that dissolves aluminium bonds (and others). If your release spray is steel-specific it won't do the job. If you can't find industrial-grade phosphoric acid (or a release compound that contains that) cola does a reasonable job.
Things you learn when you're an engineer and have to fix really old, seized equipment.
I can't tell if you're joking or brilliant, but if I ever forget to grease my seatpost, I'm gonna give it a go!
@@roonietunes7 not joking at all! I'm a chemical engineer that worked in marginal-operation places (e.g. landfills in developing countries). So you learn a lot of improvised technical alternatives. Not as good as the "proper" solution, but you do what you can with what you have.
But is it not a carbon post in the question
Push the seat post rather than pull, also a twist action may help, side to side
Why are bike shop customers so thick?
Do you mean "people"?
You know, I was reading on the internet people should be about "this" thick. Can you just set it that way and ignore your 20 years of experience, and have it ready for tomorrow which is a Sunday? Otherwise I'm going to leave you a bad yelp review...
@@otm646 What does your first sentence mean?
@@brauljo it's a joke about people going into the local bike shop having read on the internet what is wrong, or how they should set up their bike. Telling the bike shop to totally ignore any experience they have, and just set it up the way that you read on the internet because clearly the internet knows better than they do.
That's why a lot of bike shops are grumpy, you don't tell your auto mechanic what is wrong and how to fix it most the time.
@@otm646 Bike shop mechanics are often wrong. I've tried numerous times to "support my lbs" and the quality of service I've had has been truly terrible. This isn't a one-off. This is the four shops in my town and the one in the town I grew up in.
Bike shops should put the efforts into giving something that Online shops aren't. But, the moaning about customers and blaming wiggle for everything is bullsh1t.
I hear about these great bike shops that really give something to their riding communities, but I would say this is the exception and not the norm.
like the vid guys keep up the good content. love it.
For the seat post I would get a rubber mallet and bang the seat post all the way around a few times then gently tap on the top until it starts going down into the frame to break the bind, assuming it isn't at full depth already.. At this point you should be able to re atch the seat to the post and twist it out. Exercise some self control and don't hit it too hard, damaging the frame, and soak it in some kind of penetrating fluid for 24 hrs first.
Hambini has a episode of a cheap aero-bike build, where the aluminium seat post is corroded stuck in the frame. He uses phosphoric acid, pours a bit into the frame, letting it soak and removes the post. Phosphoric acid is a main ingredient of cola. And pouring cola on corroded screws is the oldest trick in the globetrotters handbook.
Stuck Seat Post, add heat to the frame down tube via hair dryer and an ice pack to the seat post - expansion and contraction of material should be enough with the lubricant to remove the post... Your are creating space between the seat post and frame tube.
Henry a cup of tea or java with cookies would add a cool flavor.🍵 Always Delivering Henry...
Once in a bike shop in brazil, the employee told me that they wont work in my bike because it was just a cheap mtb, LITERALLY. Since then I have a much better mtb, but I would never go back to that sh*t place.
that seems to be a problem around the world... i am unemployed so my bikes tend to be on the low ed budget spectrum... and i cant tell you how often i ran into that comment in bike shops. when i was younger i went to the local motorcycle shop because those guys were nice enough and do bike service too, but most of the time you either have to do it yourself if you know how, or you have to do an extensive search for a friendly customer service that most of the time doesnt survive till the next time you need them because the big bike shops "are better" and thus the small doesnt get the money in they would need to stay.
#askgmbntech
I got two problems with my Fox Factory 34 Fit4:
1. I only weigh 44kg, and when I put pressure into the fork to get ~30% sag, the fork doesnt fully extend again when I get off the bike! If I want it to fully stand up again, I only get ~5% sag. Also the return of the fork feels sooo slow, even though the rebound dampening is on the fastest setting. The fork basically got suckdown symptoms, but the problem is my weight, not the negative air chamber. The pressure charts by Fox dont include my weight. What can I do to fix this problem?
2. I havent got a suspension pump yet, and I have to use a big floor pump for tires to inflate the fork. Can I do damage to the fork or the pump by doing so? As previosely explained, I run very low pressures.
Aside from eating cake, get a rebound retune at tftuned or similar suspension expert.
HOWEVER, first ensure its not air trapped in lowers. Vid on gmbn and elsewhere on releasing with cable ties down wipe seals, pull to full extension, remove ties BEFORE put bike down again. U have to push ties in futher than u might think...2 inches/50mm
Re pump, get a proper pump and set up sag right...could improve q1 situ!!
A tyre pump will be v hard and inaccurate to use
@@rupedog The inaccuracy is no problem for me, I measured my Sag with the o-ring and a ruler! It needs a few more tries until you get in right, but then it works.
Also I checked that the negative chamber gets filled and emptied correctly.
I would wrap a frozen bag of peas around the seatpost to hopefully contract the metal.
Probably not a great idea but my dropper post was stuck in the up position so I took it off the bike held down the tab that the wire usually pulls and hit the tube with a soft mallet a couple of times and it got it unstuck.
Then I lived it up a bit with a bike specific lubricant. Figured I’d share my solution because video wasn’t super helpful with that but there’s probably better vids out there for this.
Elliot, Very odd for carbon to seize....but assuming the post clamp is FULLY undone, if there is outer post exposed above seat tube, try pushing it in/down further to release the seizure (e.g. sit on it and ride with seat clamp loose).
its not very odd, galvanic corrosion happens between alloy and carbon
Can I add volume spacers to my rockshox recon rl 2019? #askgmbntech
Recon nie jest kompatybilny ze spacerami. Spróbowałbym zmienić korek komory powietrznej na ten z Reby albo druciarsko wcisnął coś w ten oryginalny, byle nie zatkało wentyla i nie latało luzem w środku
The Recon doesn't support volume spacers, but if you have access to a 3d printer, you can print your own spacer. I did it, and it works wonderfully.
#askgmbntech I just switched from sram eagle to shimano 12speed, and apparently my aftermarket oval NW chainring is incompatible. The chain is too short and can't reach teeth after 5-7 fitting ones. Anyone else heard about such situation? I thought that chain lenght is one of a few actual standards in the industry. Aftermarket chainring worked fine with eagle, and shimano works fine with eagle chainring. Just shimano chain with atermarket chainring has problems. Checked two chains to be sure. Great show, keep it up!
My seat post seized in one of them m4 tubed specialised enduro . molegrips and a blow torch , with the addition of a vice . wasn't pretty !
🤣
Cut the top off the tube , then run a thread in it . Put sleeve around tube and gradually wind a bolt into the threaded tube .
@AskGMBNTech Hello Henry and Andrew, just simple question : why do we clamp the bike by the seatpost and not by the frame when working on them ? Keep going with the show 🤙🏼 Antoine
if you get your carbon seatpost stuck in your carbon frame....blow the shit up and buy a new one ;-) always use grease when you install....
Cracking vid as ever.
Where was this Vid when i needed it last weekend!!!
Being recorded🤔
The SEATPOST MAN can get ANY Seat post out no matter how stuck and Guarantee no frame damage doing it! Facebook THE SEATPOST MAN!!
It's a bold claim! There are only so many tricks and techniques. It's good to go to someone with experience though.
GMBN Tech have a look at his page, you’ll be very surprised
Your video was good. My complaint is you covered the title of your production at close to the end. I would let the title follow the video accordingly. Other then that carry on, and greetings from across the pond in N.Y.C.
Mines glued on is there anything I can do
My Rockshox stealth dropper post is too high when fully extended. Is there anyway I can lower it? A new saddle with lower bars?
Hello, can you help me. When I pump air pressure , droper goes down. What is the problem? I replace casing cable.
The dropper guy should of put in his question what he did when he installed the dropper did he use greese, fiber grip, or anything like that. Did The factory fuck up? Shit Might just need some slack in the cable lol.
My bike LBS employees are mean aswell. This is a big reason I am learning DIY.
Can you guys please stop using this futuristic/clothing store musics in the videos its really anoying and off putting.
Picked up a 2020 Rocky instinct. I’m debating to up the fork travel from 140-150, what will this do to the geometry like reach, seat tube angle, and bottom bracket height. With the ride-9 geometry shift I’m also thinking of putting the angel set in to get a little slacker and possibly steepen up the seat tube angle after upping the fork travel. Is this messing too much with the bike’s original dimensions? Thanks fellas. #askgmbntech
#askGMBNTech
I have a particular trail near me which starts off flowy, then turns into a steep fast section with loose rocks. I carry quite a bit of speed but need to ride the brakes to keep speed in check and even slow significantly for obstacles. Everytime I ride this trail, my rotors turn blue meaning the pads and disc need to be deglazed with emery paper. This is quite annoying and only happens on this one trail, but it is a real challenge so i keep doing it. How can I prevent glazing/overheating of my rotor? Brakes are SRAM Guide R 200mm (f) and 180mm (r), organic and sintered respectively. I have tried modulating brakes, stabbing them, more front than rear, etc, but by the time I'm done, so are the brakes!
Sintered pads in front. Genuine sram discs.
No idea how u would get that mu h heat, must be a fun trail!
I tried to turn my seat , a heard a rack and now it wobles. Can it be solved!0
#askgmbntech-my dropper post is returning automatically without using my lever. I’ve tried to figure it out but I don’t know what to do. what do I need to do to stop this from happening, thanks
#askgmbntech when fitting new brake pads, is there a technique on know how far to push the pistons back without loosing so much mineral oil that it moves the brake bite point father into the stroke? I have installed new pads recently, pushed the pistons and loosened the brake screw bolt as seen in your past videos but am now feeling the brake pads do not instantly contact the rotors when I squeeze the levers. brakes are not spongy but it seems that the oil has been reduced a lot more than it should. thanks and loving the videos!
What happened to "floating" disk brake frame designs? 🤷♂️ Used to be seen on a lot of bikes in the late 00s Konas, Brooklyn Machine Works, Transition etc..
#askgmbntech
Hi, I'm a bike mechanic from Romania, and I'm working on mostly old school bikes and low end stuff, do you have any tips to attract the higher end bike owners?
Love the show, keep up the good work 🍻
how to remove my stuck aluminum dropper post to my specialized stumpjumper 2017 frame.
I already put lots of questions on the comments and none was answered.
#AskGMBNTech My 1998 Cannondale Super V 700's fork is leaking oil and I need to fix it but I don't know what to do. Most of the bike shops have told me to just replace it due to it's age. What do I do?
#askgmbntech. One of my riding buddies is suffering from gradual hearing loss, he acknowledges it but needs “encouraging” to get it sorted. There is the obvious danger of not hearing traffic as well as shouts when the rest of the group have stopped for a mechanical.
what things do you need to think about regarding hearing aids and mountain biking, eg, helmet fit, vibration, wind noise etc
#askgmbntech
I've started getting more air under my bike (jumps and drops), which means I've started bottoming out more.
If I was to add tokens, how many would I add. I have a trek remedy with rockshox deluxe RL shock and a Yari rc fork. 150/160mm travel
And do I change the air pressure?
#askgmbntech
I was wondering what characteristics will change for riding a 120 travel bike going from 26" to 29" wheels? I had an older trek fuel ex and am looking at the new Ripley or tallboy. Thanks. Love the channel
can this bike be shipped to FPO address
you look like the guy from " never back down" the main bad guy🙃
#askgmbntech I have a little scratch on my rockshox recon stanchion from a thorn while riding. It is very small and you can hardly see it. Is this a problem. If so what can I do to fix it?
#askGMBNtech I have just gotten a new bike 3 weeks ago. From the moment I got it the fork made this squishy sound. It's working fine. I want to get rid of the sound, what can I do?
#AskGMBNTech I’m looking at buying a new MTB but I’m not sure what route to go down. I’ve got a max budget of £1500 so leaning toward a hard tail. I’d like an all rounder that I can have a leisurely ride on or thrash some trails on. I quite like the Nukeproof scout comp or possibly a Cannondale Cujo 1 but I’m struggling to make a choice. Thanks
The First sentenc of EVERY answer is "yeah it depends" 🤦🤦
hi, what do you think about the Propain Spindrift as an enduro bike, because with 180mm.
Hallo aus Deutschland :D
Try some penetrating oil in small quantities and see what happens.
#AskGMBNTech I bought a second-hand bike and it comes with a Shimano (mineral) lever and an avid elixir caliper (dot), i need to bleed them but dont know which fluid to use or do i have to get a whole new rear brake. thanks
For the stuck dropper: Turn the bike around and put some WD40 or similar inside the frame. Let it soak over night.
You can also heat the frame from the outside in order to a) thermally expand it and b) lower the viscosity of any carbon paste. Just be careful not to go too hot.
Add penatrating fluid
Great video
Thanks Ollie
#ASKGMBNTECH hi there, my shock (2016 rockshox monarch plus rc3) is feeling really rough and makes a squelching noise and the stantion is badly scratched. Do you know whats wrong with it and is my shock and is it fixable
#askgmbntech hi guys you often talk about regular service of your suspension, I'm a weekend warrior and I keep my bike clean especially the seals of the suspension and I lubricate the seals and stantions of the suspension after every wash. So my question is, how often should the "regular service be? Because I ride a bit but I'm not on the bike everyday I want to know how often I should do it
#ASKGMBNTECH - I watch every week, great JOB!!! My question is I want to be able to use the large 33 foot rolls of stainless steel shift cable but I can't figure out how to make the cable ends. Please help.
Many bike shop employees truly got their heads in the clouds. I believe it's mostly because after a while they think they know it all and everyone who comes in with either a "boring job", too many questions or trying to challenge their knowledge is an idiot. But fortunately the majority is really friendly open and service minded people!
#AskGMBNTech
Hello, Im planing to do a mullet bike and shorten my fox float 36 RC2 fit from 2015 20mm so it doesent change the geometry at all. However my cuestion is if i change the travel of my fork how much oil should i put in the lower legs? the amount for the original travel or the amount for other fork whith the new travel???
You are awesome by the way.
#askgmbntech Hey, I am looking to swap out my Sram GX DH seven speed groupset for a Shimano Zee groupset on my downhill bike. I know that the Shimano Zee groupset is 10 speed but I've seen some people do some custom set ups with less. Would I be able to use a Shimano Zee groupset with a Sram GX DH cassette?
Why does my rockshox cx32 lockout not unlock once I press to release the poplock (I run a btwin rockrider 560) #askgmbntech
i would brute force that stuck seat post just for science to see if what happens
#askgmbntech I need help to find a new fork for my Co-op drt 1.0 its from rei with a straight steerer tube
Hi Henry building a bike at the moment, never had a dropper before and buying advice?
1. Look for *max rider weight* restrictions!
2. Check for a fit:
a) min/max *insertion depth of post in frame*
> straight initial part of your seat tube determines the max insertion of the dropper into your frame (some frames' seat tubes have bents/kinks that limit insertion depth by design!) ... does it fit to match your needs/inseam length at max extension?!
b) leg *inseam* length _vs_ dropper at max extension
> make sure you're able to pedal at its max extension
3. Go for a dropper that has a *bar-mounted lever remote* for safety reasons (not the ones with the lever under the saddle) - this way you have both hands on the bar at all times
+ before you buy: figure out *lever position* (over/under the bar - right/left) and check if there's enough space for the LEVER to be mounted _and_ its CABLE to run past your brake and shifter! Be aware that a lever over the bar might cause damage should you flip your bike over for "trailside maintenance".
4. *Internal/external cable* - does your frame support internal?
Hydraulic and cable driven droppers both work fine.
Contact the folks at PNW Components, they can probably hook you up with what you need. I picked up a 110 Ranier at a bargain of a deal, ask if they have any blemished droppers they are willing to sell at a discount price. 👍
#askGMBNtech Hi, so I have a cube stereo 120 pro with 130mm travel front, I was wondering if I could change the front fork for a 150mm travel fork?
Love the videos and greetings from Mexico
#ASKGMBNTECH Hi there, I would like to know what do you think about fissures or cracks in the frame, even if it´s aluminium or carbon, does it has remedy ?
#askgmbntech I have managed to land myself a lovely little 1998 kona nunu that is in great condition, apart from one thing. The previous owner never cleaned it and there is a load of dried oil and dirt on the drive train and some other parts. It's a thick, solid black layer and I'd like to know what you recommend to brake this down without any damage to the components? Its so hard that I have literally had to use a pick to get off what I can, not even a steel brush worked, but there's areas I can't get to properly without stripping the whole bike down (which I'm not confident doing) and need something to ease it so I can brush it away. Underneath this dirt it's in great condition so I'm eager to get it all off. Thanks
Get a new chain...be way easier and cheaper probably!
@@rupedog I never said it was just the chain. I said it's the "drive train" meaning the entire thing, which doesn't need replacing. If it was just the chain I wouldn't of bothered asking. I was pretty clear about that in my post, but thanks for trying to help I guess.
wd40 soak
#ASKGMBNTECH What is that red or black ring on the fork and what does it do?
#askgmbn hi why in a certain gear when I'm pedaling it starts to click very loudly and not in any other gears
#AskGMBNTech
what is the difference between Rockshox downhill forks and Fox downhill forks.
#askgmbntech
Hi, i live in santiago de chile, here we have a lot of steep and dry terrain trails, would it be better to buy a short travel full-susp bike (120mm) or a long travel hardtail (150mm), thanks.
I have a chain breaker for 8, 9, 10 speed chains. Will it work on my 11s chain? #askgmbntech
#askgmbntech how do I remove old tubeless sealant easily
Buy a new tyre
A great tip is to use an old lid from an old aerosol can.
GMBN Tech thanks
@@gmbntech the plastic cap if for liquid sealant but by 'old' maybe he means dried?
There is dried sealant remover one of ur sponsors has tho 😉😋
@Cameron XP next time just keep silent
#ASKGMBNTECH Hi I want to upgrade my brakes to saint brakes. Ive got internal cable routing, what is the easiest way to Mount the new OneDrive and get them through the frame?
OneDrive 😅
#askgmbntech fellas, I’m a husky guy and weigh 250lbs. Is there a bike that is better suited to fat guys let me? I am currently running a hard tail and need a full sus to go faster down the chunk and rock gardens. Cheers!
#AskGMBNtech
I got the new Canyon spectral al 5.0. It came with a bolt on chainstey protector, and the top protector and the bottom one ripped off.
I want to get the exact one that it came with it. I can’t seem to find it aftermarket. Can you guys help me out? The reason this bothers me is because the bottom part of the protector hold my shift cable in place, and now nothing is holding it in place. Thanks
Contact Canyon direct. They should be able to help 👍
GMBN Tech, I have no idea why I did not think of that! Thanks!
#askgmbntech Hey guys, I bought an YT Capra this year. When I was going for my firs downhill run, I recognized that there is a little gap between the front- and the reartriangle down at the bottom bracket and already I saw the problem that there is a lot of mud an dirt an so going in and blocking it a bit, but I have the fear that it might get damaged sometime. So what could I do to stop dirt from getting in there?
moto foam
kitchen sponge
@@jonathanangieri153 what exactly is moto foam?`
@@tobis3687 th-cam.com/video/8r23TQB8tyA/w-d-xo.html
Yeah some of the pros stick foam in that gap
#askgmbntech
Hi guys! Love the channel. I have a Santa Cruz tallboy with fox 34 with a 140 mm of travel on the front. Can I change the travel to 150? If I can, how do I do it? Also, will I be able to ride in Vallonord bike park with a 140 mm? Or is it not inuff?
Thanks
Sol Bel I don’t know anything about travel adjustment, but I can tell you that 140mm is enough to ride anything. It’s just slower when the trails are really ruff
@@peterlang5047 thanks!
put the frame in a bike stand and twist it out
You can do this on an alloy/steel frame and a rigid dropper. But carbon and a dropper, that'S a red flag each!
On a rigid+steel combo you're actually better off using lots of WD40, heat and putting the *post* in the vice and then utilizing the *frame* itself as a lever!
Le Typ why does everyone get soo worried about carbon like its strong enough to take forces of you casing a jump then it’s strong enough to take your seat post out. If the guy wasn’t such a tool and used gripper paste he wouldn’t be in this situation
@@jakeevans1129 Yes, carbon frames are designed to handle impressive impacts/forces from certain angles at certain spots.
But it's a layered material and you risk damaging the seat tube, separating the first layer of fibres inside the seat tube that have bound to the dropper _(but weren't supposed/intended to do so!)_ when twisting too hard.
Useless advice on the click bait title.
On an aluminum frame I would use a hair dryer to heat up the seat tube to expand it, hopefully freeing the seat post. The hair dryer should be hot enough to get the metal to expand slightly, but not hot enough to damage the metal or the paint. On a carbon frame, I don't know how much it would expand under that low level of heat compared to aluminum. If it expands decently it could still work and the low temp of the hair dryer shouldn't damage the carbon or paint. Definitely don't use a heat gun, that will likely set the paint on fire, if not the frame itself with carbon.
Im running Hope Tech floating rotors with Guide brakes. I had to file/grind down a few millimeters of the lower part of the calipper and the spacer.
First of all I Love all of your Videos and they do help me so much, Keep it up! Greetings from Germany (Karim)
And my question is about the MTB's from Santa Cruz (other brands like Ibis also). Are the ,,cheaper" Models like the Nomad C S as good (performance) as the top Model with the cc Frame? Because I can't find reviews of the cheaper ones and cannot afford them.#askgmbntech
That's Right for Santacruz, the frames are either aluminum, carbon C, or carbon CC. carbon C is just as strong, but a little heavier than CC
@@peterlang5047 OK thanks for the quick response. And are the bikes with the cheaper parts comparable in performance or are they totally diffrent from the handling, downhill Performance? And when if i may ask, do you have a Santa Cruz?
That's Right the bikes with cheaper parts have the same frame geometry and suspension linkage, so they feel very similar
That's Right I don’t have a Santa Cruz, but I work at a shop that sells Santa Cruz and I really want a 5010
@@peterlang5047 Oh Yeah the 5010 a really great allrounder, my friend has one and is so satisfied. In my eyes they should also review the other models and not only the High End versions. Most people cant afford bikes that costs more than 3500€. Even if they are used, they are still pretty expensive.
If all the LBS employees you run into are mean, maybe it your attitude that the problem. let me guess, they wouldn't tell you how the make in incompatible bit you bought online fit on to your bike purchased online?
#askgmbntech what's the difference in tyre height between a 2.3" tyre and a 2.6"?
Depends on the very tire, rim and frame when it comes to a fit.
Your best bet (before mounting):
Draw a 2.3" circle, strike a line across (the two intersecting points need to be _exactly_ your inner rim width apart!). Now draw a second 2.6" circle, intersecting at the very same points - now measure the height difference perpendicular to the line.
@@geemail369 thanks for reply but not interested for frame clearance just for head angle changes and bb height. Interesting idea about drawing it out though will give it a go
Brand/model dependent
Hello
#askgmbn for a beginner mountain bike looking to upgrade is it better to get a good quality Hardtail or a lower end full suspension bike
I personally ride a Nukeproof Scout (agressive hardtail) and I can only recommend it! A FS is probably faster, but the HT is really good fun! You only want to avoid fast and very bumpy terrain combined! Make sure to get agressive geometrie thought!
It depends on how gnarly the trails you want to ride are
@@peterlang5047 The Scout actually handles slow, steep, technical terrain really well, fast flowy stuff of course like a dream. The only weakness is in really fast bumpy trails!
Malte Stolli the latter is one of my favorite types of trails lol
#askgmbnteck how do you uppgrade your 7 speed casset to a 8,9 or 10 Speed casset.. best TH-cam Chanel of 2020
Melker Andersson you may not be able to unfortunately. It depends on the length of your freehub body and the width of your rear axle for whether or not you can. There are videos out there on this topic you can look for
Ok thanks
There’s a good chance that you CAN replace the cassette with a bigger cassette. The best way to do it is to take your bike to your local bike shop and ask them to show you how to figure it out
I believe 7, 8, 9 and 10 all use the same splined free-hub body, so no issue to change.. U will need a new shifter to match, maybe a new mech if limit screws won't allow movement to the extremes.
@@rupedog 7 speed cassette is more narrow. If there is a spacer fitted behind the 7 speed cassette you can install more cogs
#ASKGMBNTECH why my bike fork squeak ? Is it ok
remove the mouse
@@cwalt74 bro I can't find the mouse
#askgmbn im looking for an Endro bike on a budget of $2500 US but i dont what brands to look for thank you in advance.
lapierre are not bad look at the zesty, more of a trail bike, but you won't get a great enduro long travel full sus bike for that little except if it is second hand
Jude Chandler ok I’ll look into it
@@cameronhiers5115 good luck!
oi first
🏁🏆
@@gmbntech love ur vids keep up the good content
Way to much talking.