Hey up Yorkshire BM, I've just been in my shed hard at it trying to get a ridiculously long carbon seatpost out of a Kona Kula. No calming music, just lots of cursing and good old brute force whilst my daughter applied some heat with the heat gun. Like you said though, it wasn't a case of trying to twist it too much, it was more of a left and right motion with lots of pulling. I did use a carbon paste last but this time I have gone back to a light smear of grease and have cleaned inside the frame too. I will periodically do some preventative maintenance to keep a check on things from now on.
I wish you were located in New Jersey. I have a really nice IRO frame with a stuck seat post that I cannot get out. Is this cutter tool something I can purchase?
I've been looking at all the videos out there. One method that looked simple for the home DIYer is a (10lb) slide hammer, coupled with liberal application of penetrating spray. I expect a can of freeze spray would also add to it's effectiveness .P.s. the heat gun method will not work if the frame is steel and post aluminium: aluminium expands more than steel so it will make it tighter when warm.
Thinking about the slide hammer suggestion, is that inserting something into the seat tube and sliding upwards. I like the idea but what would be small enough and have sufficient purchase on the end of the pillar ? I tried a bolt through the pillar and then hit it both clockwise and reverse but it just bent the bolt.
Yes the expansion rates are different however it can still work, as part of what you’re looking for is to break the initial bond and the shifting of the molecules will help, and after getting everything heated up, you can take a spray bottle with cold water and spray down inside the post to try and cause a rapid shrinking of the post while still applying heat outside.
Surprised your ending did not come with a recommendation. To avoid this situation all together, remove your seat post at least once a year and clean and regrease with Phil Woods hydrophobic grease, and do the same with your seat post clamp bolt. Remove it totally from the clamp, regrease the threads and the head and washer as well. You won’t ever have the problem in this video. Also regrease your steerer tube clamp bolts and stem bolts.
Hi, thanks for watching, carbon frames can be a nightmare and very difficult to remove without damage, I would would love to have a go but I am going to refer you to John Lee, hes the carbon expert, tell him I sent you. theseatpostman.com/
'... /... , we need some ideas to sort it out this seat post' ( SIC scripsit et dixit) : WD 40 all around the seat tube and wait 4 days , and Pull it out by hand . Might need some warm - up ... but i'd never need it before .
Hi Simon, nice to me you today. A rebuild cost is £28. The rim if we use something nearly identical £53, (trade). I will try and use the same spokes if they are the right length, if not they will be 80p each
Hi, Thanks for watching, The bottom bracket housing is used with a special bottom bracket fixed to the beast., The saw was made for us by a welder/fabricator
I have a 1970s frame with an horrible stuck seat post. I cut 4 slices and it’s not going anywhere. I didn’t pay much for it and I’m at the point where I’m going to bring it to the dump. Frame is a Empire brand high tensile steel 61cm with crime forged dropouts. Shame.
Since the thermal expansion coefficient of aluminum is over twice that of steel, I would suspect that heating the stuck assembly up would actually make it tighter, not looser. If you went the other direction and threw it in the freezer for a while you might have more success.
I made a seat tube clamp jig for the side of the table of my milling machine, align it with a test indicator, run a big drill (25, 27, 30 etc.mm) down the destroyed post, then a long mill in a circular cutter path, then a reamer of the correct diameter to dislodge the rest of the aluminium oxide. If you don't already have a mill & tooling this is an expensive option.
No easing oil first? And I think I would have put a nut on the other side so the pull would have been absolutely even and the pressure applied to the bolt head and nut as close to the seatpost as possible
I need help!!!My carbon seat post snapped off my aluminium frame, the break was exactly flush against the frame so I there's not purchase, I can't get the rest of the tube out, I need away of pulling it out. Any ideas anyone?
Hi, Thanks for your comments, this is a tricky one, only way to get this out is to slot the post with a recipricating saw or long purpose hacksaw, be careful of the dust though.
@@patrickclarke3645 I got a flat-head screw driver and gently tapped it in between the carbon post and the frame, required a bit of patience as it was quite a tight fit, then I used the screw driver as a lever to give me enough space in between the frame and the post so I could get some pliers in and grab hold of the post. I found it easier with a second pair of hands to hold down the bike frame as I pulled the post out with the pliers. Did the job though, it is tricky and frustrating though. Good luck!
RJ the bike guy has some videos on how to make one, but a simple solution is a car jack resting on a wooden protected top tube, with an appropriate method of wedging under the seat post. Not tried it and it has potential to damage frame, but it would be a cheap and quick option
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Cool video with excellent music choice. About the saw: Do you provide more details in building such a tool? Or can you recommend a website, where I can find more info on how to make one myself? Thank you very much.
I have one worse than that, and i'm all out of calming music. If you fancy a challenge? 🙏
Hi, Bring it on!!!!!
That hand made tool is genius. I did something similar using wood but this is much more sophisticated. Well done
Thank you very much! and thanks for watching
Hey up Yorkshire BM, I've just been in my shed hard at it trying to get a ridiculously long carbon seatpost out of a Kona Kula. No calming music, just lots of cursing and good old brute force whilst my daughter applied some heat with the heat gun. Like you said though, it wasn't a case of trying to twist it too much, it was more of a left and right motion with lots of pulling. I did use a carbon paste last but this time I have gone back to a light smear of grease and have cleaned inside the frame too. I will periodically do some preventative maintenance to keep a check on things from now on.
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments.
drill hole right thru put big thick screwdriver thru and just turn works all the time
what a good doo.
I wish you were located in New Jersey. I have a really nice IRO frame with a stuck seat post that I cannot get out. Is this cutter tool something I can purchase?
You'll get it out without a problem, it didn't look like it here. Why not show the beast?
you know that hammer dooe wonders with this kind of oxidation.. 😁 . Heat it, smash it 2 or 3 times and try to pull it out
No chance when it's properly stuck
Are there any Seatpost videos on removing a steel Seatpost from a steel frame ? all i can find is Aluminium Seatpost removal.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments, we have not seen a steel seatpost for years.
I've been looking at all the videos out there. One method that looked simple for the home DIYer is a (10lb) slide hammer, coupled with liberal application of penetrating spray. I expect a can of freeze spray would also add to it's effectiveness .P.s. the heat gun method will not work if the frame is steel and post aluminium: aluminium expands more than steel so it will make it tighter when warm.
Hi, Thanks for watching. Its important to generate pulling force in the same line as the seatpost whilst holding the frame still.
Thinking about the slide hammer suggestion, is that inserting something into the seat tube and sliding upwards. I like the idea but what would be small enough and have sufficient purchase on the end of the pillar ? I tried a bolt through the pillar and then hit it both clockwise and reverse but it just bent the bolt.
Yes the expansion rates are different however it can still work, as part of what you’re looking for is to break the initial bond and the shifting of the molecules will help, and after getting everything heated up, you can take a spray bottle with cold water and spray down inside the post to try and cause a rapid shrinking of the post while still applying heat outside.
I've been working on bikes nearly 40 years i always grease alloy seat posts to avoid this happenig
Hi, thank you for watching and your comments
That calming music reminds me of being put on hold when trying to get an appointment with my doctor.
lol, sorry.
Surprised your ending did not come with a recommendation. To avoid this situation all together, remove your seat post at least once a year and clean and regrease with Phil Woods hydrophobic grease, and do the same with your seat post clamp bolt. Remove it totally from the clamp, regrease the threads and the head and washer as well. You won’t ever have the problem in this video. Also regrease your steerer tube clamp bolts and stem bolts.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments
Can I send you my scott rc 20 .. post is well and truly stuck in the carbon frame .. me and a pall have made a mess of it 😢😢HELP !
Hi, thanks for watching, carbon frames can be a nightmare and very difficult to remove without damage, I would would love to have a go but I am going to refer you to John Lee, hes the carbon expert, tell him I sent you. theseatpostman.com/
That tool looks like a one off but I would buy one
photos and dimensions coming soon
Are blue prints out yet? @@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic
Do you have another jig or an addition to this one to remove stuck stems? Love the videos.
Hi thanks for watching, no just the seatpost one
'... /... , we need some ideas to sort it out this seat post' ( SIC scripsit et dixit) : WD 40 all around the seat tube and wait 4 days , and Pull it out by hand . Might need some warm - up ... but i'd never need it before .
Hi, sorry I don't understand your comment
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic are you refering to somebody in particulary . ????
I'm early 🇬🇧 💪🙏
boring tool or lathe can drill that out in minutes
Hi thanks for watching and your comments
that internal seat post saw looks like my last resort. Half of the post broke inside the tube... Where can I aquire one of those saws?
Wow
So my good man, how much for a new rim , re spoked using the hub off my smashed rim . ?
Hi Simon, nice to me you today. A rebuild cost is £28. The rim if we use something nearly identical £53, (trade). I will try and use the same spokes if they are the right length, if not they will be 80p each
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic , sounds reasonable, will email you
Easiest way to remove that seatpost is to melt it off with a lye solution.
lye solution, thats caustic soda, melts your hands off that stuff.
Good work! Two questions: What holds the bike in the Beast? Where can we get a saw like the one you used? Thanks!
Hi, Thanks for watching, The bottom bracket housing is used with a special bottom bracket fixed to the beast., The saw was made for us by a welder/fabricator
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Thanks!
Great video - thanks ...
Wish I lived up near Yorkshire 🏴...
Just puzzling what to do on one of our bikes here in channel islands.
Best R
Hi, I understand but the weather here is not what you would like
I have a 1970s frame with an horrible stuck seat post. I cut 4 slices and it’s not going anywhere. I didn’t pay much for it and I’m at the point where I’m going to bring it to the dump. Frame is a Empire brand high tensile steel 61cm with crime forged dropouts. Shame.
Keep it. Get a maschine schop to reem it out
Since the thermal expansion coefficient of aluminum is over twice that of steel, I would suspect that heating the stuck assembly up would actually make it tighter, not looser. If you went the other direction and threw it in the freezer for a while you might have more success.
Aluminum loses 30% of its strength while at only 175C, so it's not a bad idea.
I made a seat tube clamp jig for the side of the table of my milling machine, align it with a test indicator, run a big drill (25, 27, 30 etc.mm) down the destroyed post, then a long mill in a circular cutter path, then a reamer of the correct diameter to dislodge the rest of the aluminium oxide. If you don't already have a mill & tooling this is an expensive option.
Thanks for your reply, loved to have seen a video of that
Good job!
Thanks!
I know where my bike is going to, if ever I get a stuck seatpost 👍🙂🙂🚲🚲🚲
Hi, Thanks for watching, your welcome anytime
No easing oil first? And I think I would have put a nut on the other side so the pull would have been absolutely even and the pressure applied to the bolt head and nut as close to the seatpost as possible
Hi John, to be honest the post was mangled, lost all it strength and super brittle, it was going to be plan B from the start
My son's bike his friend pushed the seat post too far down we try to pull it out and seat came away from the seat post great video😁
Thanks for watching and your comments,
Gallium would have done a easier job ..
Hi, thanks for your comments, in what way would that work?
Acck - you put a rag over the post we're trying to see. If metal shards are a concern, perhaps a clear plastic bag next time? thank you
Hi, Thanks for watching, ok will do
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Love your personality, mate! (If we ever meet, I will deny I said such)
Great work but how much would that have cost?
Hi, total cost was £79.00
What about filling the whole tube with vinegar for 1-2-3 days? It eats rust
Only thing I put vinegar on is fish and chips
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic :) :) :)
I just used a rotary hammer drill. Uploaded to my channel if your curious. :)
Hi John, Thats a thick post.
So basically you used RJ the Bike Guy's method. Good on ya
I need help!!!My carbon seat post snapped off my aluminium frame, the break was exactly flush against the frame so I there's not purchase, I can't get the rest of the tube out, I need away of pulling it out. Any ideas anyone?
Hi, Thanks for your comments, this is a tricky one, only way to get this out is to slot the post with a recipricating saw or long purpose hacksaw, be careful of the dust though.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanichi sir can you expand on this. Thanks
What did you end up doing?
@@patrickclarke3645 I got a flat-head screw driver and gently tapped it in between the carbon post and the frame, required a bit of patience as it was quite a tight fit, then I used the screw driver as a lever to give me enough space in between the frame and the post so I could get some pliers in and grab hold of the post. I found it easier with a second pair of hands to hold down the bike frame as I pulled the post out with the pliers. Did the job though, it is tricky and frustrating though. Good luck!
Interesting video. I have a similar problem and no jig so a saw is going to my last resort too.
Hi Jonathan, let me know how you got on please.
I’ve done it plenty times and it works. Get ready to build arm muscles
Are you wearing a Seiko Tuna diver?
Well spotted, i'm a big fan
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic seiko fan also, love your seatpost removal machine
Jobs a good un. Perseverance paid off 👏👏
Hi, Thanks for watching, wrist is aching this morning though
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic I was thinking you would maybe use a slide-hammer. That saw was a clever bit of kit 👍
How much are those seat post tools?
Hi, thanks for watching, your can’t buy them, they were made
RJ the bike guy has some videos on how to make one, but a simple solution is a car jack resting on a wooden protected top tube, with an appropriate method of wedging under the seat post. Not tried it and it has potential to damage frame, but it would be a cheap and quick option
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Cool video with excellent music choice. About the saw: Do you provide more details in building such a tool? Or can you recommend a website, where I can find more info on how to make one myself? Thank you very much.
Merci!
welcome
I’m not even bothering with a saw. Caustic soda!
Hi, Thanks for watching, what ever works
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic indeed me ole sparra. I’m impressed with that extraction tool.
Very dangerous indeed and usually ruins any paintwork left on the frame, but if you feel lucky, why not
Prep is everything. And if you do it properly then dangerous is not an issue.
Nice job, sir.
Thank you kindly
I cry very much when i😢 ser this work ! WD 40 and the glue and galvanized tubes Will separate after 3 days .
Lord ! I thought we were friends !