Thank you for this video, this was super helpful, and helped me get my dropper to work again! A couple of notes that weren't mentioned in the video: - The push rod has two different ends - one is cut square, the other is rounded. The rounded end goes towards the green actuator, the square end goes inside the post. - For aesthetics (and nothing else), the green actuator can be tightened until it is parallel to the head of the seat post. This is how it comes from the factory.
Not just for aesthetics. Some seatubes have welds or zurts for bottle holders that get in the way. I moved the actuator and got an extra 10mm of travels
Excellent, once again. Thanks you and the whole crew for producing top quality guidance videos. I've gained an incredible quantity 9f knowledge from your channel over the past 5 years. :)
The lock ring tightens mostly but not to tight. It just spins with the needle nose pliers. Thought it was ok until i couldnt unscrew my shock pump. Just kept spinning. Should the lock nut bottom out?
Next idea for an expensive not really needed tool, Park tool strap wrench, blue strap obviously, and double or triple the price of other strap wrenches, because it’s blue.
When I got to the end of reassembly, I’m finding that my entire assembly is just barely too long. I can’t thread both the collar and the actuator at the same time. I thought I got all the brass keys aligned and the body slides freely up and down prior to threading. What did I miss?
You may need to compress the cartridge. At the stage you are at i would reccommend installing the actuator, then with the head of the post facing downward actuate the dropper with the actuater and compress the cartridge a few inches. That should allow you to thread the collar onto the top of the post.
They are similar. Check out their literature to verify. This video may not be exactly your post but it will be similar and give you an idea of what you are getting into.
I have the exact same dropper and have noticed it's been very slow lately....this video came at a great time...no need to remove the air in the dropper post prior to servicing it?
@@chris4536 I followed this video and serviced my dropper (it was so dirty) and added air (it was quite low) after I completed the service...the dropper is now smoother than when I bought it and it returns quickly now.
My post has had an excessive amount of play in the rotation of the axis going through the post since I bought the bike. Is there a way to fix this with the tolerance of the pins?
I have a Fox dropper so I think I'll just use it till it gets to the point it is too annoying to use, and then just swop it to a OneUp or something like PNW or the like, so I can service it myself with ease. With my dropper I need to buy certain tools and then it's a more involved job to service it. I just don't feel it's worth it, so I'll hop over to another brand once my Fox dropper turns to ¤%&#.
A seat post that allows you to move the height of your saddle based on your application. In a mountain biking context, you want your saddle low and out of the way for hitting jumps and bumps so you can not get hit by your seat. You also want your seat higher up when climbing for more efficient strokes. Droppers have been around for decades but really reliable and great value options have been around for slightly less than a decade. Hope this helps!
Just feed some more cable slack through the frame so you can reach and disconnect the actuator from the bottom of the post. Speak to your local bike mechanic if you're not sure!
Thank you for this video, this was super helpful, and helped me get my dropper to work again! A couple of notes that weren't mentioned in the video:
- The push rod has two different ends - one is cut square, the other is rounded. The rounded end goes towards the green actuator, the square end goes inside the post.
- For aesthetics (and nothing else), the green actuator can be tightened until it is parallel to the head of the seat post. This is how it comes from the factory.
Thanks! I actually came here for the info on the two push rod ends.
Not just for aesthetics. Some seatubes have welds or zurts for bottle holders that get in the way. I moved the actuator and got an extra 10mm of travels
Timely content, I just serviced my one up v2 just a few days ago.
Thank you and keep up the good work. :)
Nicely, clearly explained and demonstrated.
May Mr Truman and Mr Calvin make a thousand more great videos! :)
Well done and I appreciate the vocabular depth, it shows you've dedicated deep thought to the world of mechanics.
Excellent, once again. Thanks you and the whole crew for producing top quality guidance videos. I've gained an incredible quantity 9f knowledge from your channel over the past 5 years. :)
Thanks for this video. Good guide. Timely video. I just serviced my oneup v2 dropper for the first time with the help of this video.
Glad it helped!
Worked for me and better than ever.Thanks
I found that during reassembly, it needs to be slightly into stroke to be able to screw actuator back on . Hope that makes sense
You legend
Hoping for a series for servicing forks ranging from no controller forks to expensive forks 😁
Yeah they should really do some suspension service videos!
One thing to check is that the seat clamp hasn't been overtightened pinching the dropper and stoping it moving smoothly or at all. 6 nm max
I like that work mat.
We do too! It is the Park Tool OM-2 Benchtop Overhaul Mat! www.parktool.com/en-us/product/benchtop-overhaul-mat-om-2
Love all your videos and appreciate all you teach me!
What about saddle rotational play before and after servicing it? plus/minus 3mm!?
How about air pressure? How hard can it be to show?
Hi!
One question: can you increase the air pressure on the cartridge with a normal suspension air pump?
Yes.
Hopefully this helps me with a sticking post due to high amount of drag in the collar seal/bushing
this was amazing - thank you SO MUCH!
The lock ring tightens mostly but not to tight. It just spins with the needle nose pliers. Thought it was ok until i couldnt unscrew my shock pump. Just kept spinning. Should the lock nut bottom out?
Meanwhile, the guys assembling inflators are looking for the sly-glide. Thanks for this one Truman
We have a few tubes floating around ;)
Next idea for an expensive not really needed tool,
Park tool strap wrench, blue strap obviously, and double or triple the price of other strap wrenches, because it’s blue.
I was with you until at the end you said check air pressure? Does the post use air?
Is there any benefit to greasing the push rod (the actuator)? It wasn't mentioned to grease it, but I am curious. Thanks!
No. It’s movement is minuscule and fairly frictionless.
When disassembling for service you don't have to remove the air from the post?
Thanks a lot, great tutorial!
When I got to the end of reassembly, I’m finding that my entire assembly is just barely too long. I can’t thread both the collar and the actuator at the same time. I thought I got all the brass keys aligned and the body slides freely up and down prior to threading. What did I miss?
You may need to compress the cartridge. At the stage you are at i would reccommend installing the actuator, then with the head of the post facing downward actuate the dropper with the actuater and compress the cartridge a few inches. That should allow you to thread the collar onto the top of the post.
Thank you! 🙏
How do you do this if the post no longer goes up
Hi, quick question, does this oneup seat post also have rotational play? THANKS
There is a very minimal amount of rotational play on this post.
Vraiment intéressant 👍 Thank you 😊
11:48 Don’t use alcohol on rubber seals. Dries them out. Crispy. As in non-functioning.
I used some de-greaser for the seal .
Hello. Can I use Sram Butter?
You sure can.
I have a PNW and a Manic X post. I assume they’re all kinda similar??
They are similar. Check out their literature to verify. This video may not be exactly your post but it will be similar and give you an idea of what you are getting into.
I have the exact same dropper and have noticed it's been very slow lately....this video came at a great time...no need to remove the air in the dropper post prior to servicing it?
No need to. The service procedure deals with the parts external to the air cartridge, where the air is contained.
@@lenolenoleno Thank you
Might need to also add more air pressure if the return is slow.
@@chris4536 I followed this video and serviced my dropper (it was so dirty) and added air (it was quite low) after I completed the service...the dropper is now smoother than when I bought it and it returns quickly now.
hi, have you ever came across a dropper for 30mm diameter frame tube ? kona hossmatic (2008 maybe, or earlier)
There is a 27.2 dropper, which will require a shim up to 30mm to work.
@@parktool thank you
My post has had an excessive amount of play in the rotation of the axis going through the post since I bought the bike. Is there a way to fix this with the tolerance of the pins?
Yes ! Contact oneup support, there are different pins size to adjust the necessary play
I have a Fox dropper so I think I'll just use it till it gets to the point it is too annoying to use, and then just swop it to a OneUp or something like PNW or the like, so I can service it myself with ease. With my dropper I need to buy certain tools and then it's a more involved job to service it. I just don't feel it's worth it, so I'll hop over to another brand once my Fox dropper turns to ¤%&#.
👍🔧
So simple yet so effective. That background track started to drive me nuts. Totally unnecessary.
What is a dropper post?
A seat post that allows you to move the height of your saddle based on your application. In a mountain biking context, you want your saddle low and out of the way for hitting jumps and bumps so you can not get hit by your seat. You also want your seat higher up when climbing for more efficient strokes. Droppers have been around for decades but really reliable and great value options have been around for slightly less than a decade. Hope this helps!
I feel this question was intentionally inverted, for sarcastic polarity
Show
These dropper service videos typically do not show how to remove the post from the internally routed frame. Please add that video next time.
Just feed some more cable slack through the frame so you can reach and disconnect the actuator from the bottom of the post.
Speak to your local bike mechanic if you're not sure!
I just unbolted dropper lever from bars , and fed cable back through the frame as you pull out post .
I just unbolted dropper lever from bars , and fed cable back through the frame as you pull out post .
Accoridng to park tools i need 300 dollars in tools to service a dropper post