Until I watched this film I was acid dip all the way but you have changed my mind completely. The whole keeping it dry is the key here. Great film I have liked and subscribed.
ha ha ha on the nitromos, we found that also a few years ago, we called the help line on the tin and wound up the call center really well, claiming we bought it to do our bosses car in and complained it did nothing etc, the conversation was passed right through the chain of command we had bought it for a resto job but as you say its been dumbed right down.
Interesting stuff! I didn't realise there was so much involved in dipping. When you see it on programmes like Car SOS it just looks like dip, rinse, then a coat of primer! Also, how about strip wheels in an angle grinder or drill?
Do you watch the YT vids by RetroPower ? They seem to agree with you on the blast V dipping argument, but a process of flame spraying molten zinc to the undersides of their restorations. I was wondering if you've done this or any thoughts. Thanks
I've had the same problem regarding acid dipping, thankfully the customer had it done before I received it, but we had issues with the seams almost straight away, and after a few months it was getting worse, really disshartening to be honest. Problem is, how do you cure it? sand blasting the seams probably would not get to all of the trapped acid, and acid dipping again is another gamble. The customer lost interest and sold the car on (RS2000 MK2) I do sometimes think what it is like now, which is about 8 years on. I normally get everywhere that is not flat sand blasted, then paint stripper (cling film over the wet paint stripper makes it strip better by the way) to get the bulk of the paint off and then finish off with 'Poly Strip Discs' on an angle grinder (the ones for a drill are not really any good). Poly discs are expensive, and make a lot of dust, but they do last well and give a really nice surface to work from. Thank you for the videos, answers and advice. Every day is a school day. Cheers, Tony.
I will never forget seeing a Ferrari Dino that had come into a friends restoration firm . It had been shot blasted so badly that the whole body was peppered with tiny holes. My mate had to put 1000s of weld dots to fill the holes.
If I was thinking Of acid dipping I would like to have it done the same steps As the car manufacturers do in the car painting process and if you're wanting a car factory finish original
Any acid dip is a problem for the future, the seams hold on to acid and at a later date WILL exude corrosion, I have seen this happen too many times, with a grit blast the shell only requires careful cleaning, I always acid etch before priming, but any acid bath must get corrosive acid into closed areas and cannot be removed, I have seen the results of this too many times.
Sand blasting is not a good if not very if the panels get Hot and will distortion and cause extra work acid dip Will need to be cleaned and the acid will needs neturel lised
Acid dip is terrible I know from experience having done work on shells that have been dipped inside box sections etc are terrible, a good blaster is hard to find most blasters go gently so as not to mch heat builds up and cause warp age
When you consider these vehicles are by their nature are "precious metal" , chemical dipping just does not have the level of control I think is needed in the preparation process and while the paint stripper may not be ideal but know from experience doing my own vehicle over 3 decades ago that's if you keep it away from the seams then you have no issues with rust
I can't see how you could ever get a acid dip car dry! the very nature of the process is wet and even after a final rinse the steel is in a wet environment. You would have to bake it then is would be turning brown in front of you.
Until I watched this film I was acid dip all the way but you have changed my mind completely. The whole keeping it dry is the key here.
Great film I have liked and subscribed.
I am in your camp..much prefer dry blasting and controlling the area. Nice video!
Excellent information.....totally agree..... can't argue with your experience of dipped cars
ha ha ha on the nitromos, we found that also a few years ago, we called the help line on the tin and wound up the call center really well, claiming we bought it to do our bosses car in and complained it did nothing etc, the conversation was passed right through the chain of command
we had bought it for a resto job but as you say its been dumbed right down.
Thx for sharing your view. I’m having the same question and this us useful.
That’s very helpful, thank you!!
Thanks i think you are right cheers Paul
Very informative, thank you.
I used the red primer, it was called red brown single stage, haven't been able to buy it for years. A real good product
Very enjoyable & interesting video thank you.
Excellent channel 👏
I’ve blasting 👍😊
Interesting stuff! I didn't realise there was so much involved in dipping. When you see it on programmes like Car SOS it just looks like dip, rinse, then a coat of primer! Also, how about strip wheels in an angle grinder or drill?
Do you watch the YT vids by RetroPower ? They seem to agree with you on the blast V dipping argument, but a process of flame spraying molten zinc to the undersides of their restorations. I was wondering if you've done this or any thoughts. Thanks
You do exactly what I would do., and agree that dipping is not the best thing to do.
Agree 100%
I've had the same problem regarding acid dipping, thankfully the customer had it done before I received it, but we had issues with the seams almost straight away, and after a few months it was getting worse, really disshartening to be honest. Problem is, how do you cure it? sand blasting the seams probably would not get to all of the trapped acid, and acid dipping again is another gamble. The customer lost interest and sold the car on (RS2000 MK2) I do sometimes think what it is like now, which is about 8 years on.
I normally get everywhere that is not flat sand blasted, then paint stripper (cling film over the wet paint stripper makes it strip better by the way) to get the bulk of the paint off and then finish off with 'Poly Strip Discs' on an angle grinder (the ones for a drill are not really any good).
Poly discs are expensive, and make a lot of dust, but they do last well and give a really nice surface to work from.
Thank you for the videos, answers and advice. Every day is a school day.
Cheers,
Tony.
I will never forget seeing a Ferrari Dino that had come into a friends restoration firm . It had been shot blasted so badly that the whole body was peppered with tiny holes.
My mate had to put 1000s of weld dots to fill the holes.
I’m a restored here in Australia, our experience is the same, we never dip for the same reasons
Ice blasting 👍😊
If I was thinking Of acid dipping I would like to have it done the same steps As the car manufacturers do in the car painting process and if you're wanting a car factory finish original
Apparently soda blasting is better than sand as it's less abrasive. I did say apparently.
Any acid dip is a problem for the future, the seams hold on to acid and at a later date WILL exude corrosion, I have seen this happen too many times, with a grit blast the shell only requires careful cleaning, I always acid etch before priming, but any acid bath must get corrosive acid into closed areas and cannot be removed, I have seen the results of this too many times.
Using a heat gun to remove the paint. Would be a good way to Go
Shot blasting just fills every single box section, crevice and whole, the T2 on my rotisserie is still leaking shot 2 years on🤷♂️
Sounds like someone did a terrible job.
Acid dip Will cause rust and become a rust bucket
Sand blasting is not a good if not very if the panels get Hot and will distortion and cause extra work acid dip Will need to be cleaned and the acid will needs neturel lised
Acid dip is terrible I know from experience having done work on shells that have been dipped inside box sections etc are terrible, a good blaster is hard to find most blasters go gently so as not to mch heat builds up and cause warp age
When you consider these vehicles are by their nature are "precious metal" , chemical dipping just does not have the level of control I think is needed in the preparation process and while the paint stripper may not be ideal but know from experience doing my own vehicle over 3 decades ago that's if you keep it away from the seams then you have no issues with rust
I can't see how you could ever get a acid dip car dry! the very nature of the process is wet and even after a final rinse the steel is in a wet environment. You would have to bake it then is would be turning brown in front of you.
Don't like idea of acid dipping seen cars where the acid is bleeding thru seams and some areas u will never get paint
Nitromors really is a disgrace these days… others are available from trade paint suppliers but all dumbed down now…
Gunoo?
acid for me
Very informative, many thanks.