Anycubic Photon Mono M5 vs M5s - Spot the Difference
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2023
- Buy the Anycubic Photon M5s Here: geni.us/PhotonM5s
Buy the Anycubic Photon M5 Here: geni.us/PhotonM5
Buy the Anycubic Photon M5s Here: geni.us/PhotonM5s
Buy the Anycubic Photon M5 Here: geni.us/PhotonM5
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00:00 - Intro - บันเทิง
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Hey! Industrial designer here... definitely value speed over quality when doing certain kinds of prototyping that don't require extremely high detail, so you get more iterations done in a fixed amount of time. More iterations = more refinement, better solutions, etc. Great video, thank you! Just ordered the M5S
I think people like faster prints for prototyping. You are able to print something really fast to see if it works for your needs.
Or you have a 3d printing company, like myself, and you need to consistently print out items for customers at a faster rate. :)
@@mordenthex8554 yeah this too.
Yep, exactly this. I primarily print technical stuff that mostly features straight planes or some radii features, for that the speed and dimensional tolerance are a way bigger factor
Thanks for your time on this. Quality comes as a higher preference over speed, nobody looking at my prints cares how long it took, and I'm putting the details into my own sculpt for a reason.
Thank you for your time and work and sharing your findings. Being an FDM type of user and learning recently resin printers can print really even cooler figures and statues my mind is steering me into learning more on the 3D resin printer, so far I know I need to watch more of your work and channel.
enjoying your content and ive just joined the printing community yesterday,your 1 of my mentors at this point thx
I'm about to pull the trigger on a printer and your insight is very helpful. Worth the subscribe
I just got my m5s and I love it. Printed two maxed build plate busts and one half build plate bust in 5 hours. Which for my uses of selling prints at my local shop makes restock stupid easy
Thank you so much for doing the comparison. I have the M5s on pre-order and it's a relief that I can go with quality when I want. This is a medium format printer and I don't think it's that important to squeeze out every pixel on a 20 inch tall figure. Though it's good to know that I'm not getting an inferior printer.
Another great video! Really appreciate this insight. Right now I'm thinking slow for armies, fast for terrain.
Not bad thinking actually
Great video. Thanks for doing the work to compare these two. Will grab my future printers thru your affiliate link.
I know this is not the purpose of this video. But no wonder your channel is growing as fast. I know filmmaking as well as you know printers. Your editing and story telling is on point. God damn, dude.
he doesnt know printers that well at all.
Thanks so much for this video. I wanted to buy a spare resin vat and couldn't tell if the m5 and m5s were interchangeable or not - your video clearly shows that are. I'll also save 20 quid on a spare set of films as I'll order the m5 ones rather than the s. I'll save the m5s vat for when I want speed.
Thanks for the review, it's very helpful. The only reason I'm even interested in fast printing test prints where I'm looking for needed improvements in my prints. 😊
Great video, thank you for the information. I have a creality mage pro and do the exact same thing with fep sheets and 2 vats. Though the difference is minimal, I find the nfep has a longer life span than the ACF film.
Thanks for the review. Glad, like everyone else, the M5s can get the quality. Anycubic has the M5 vats in their store now, so definately picking one up for when i need to swap.
Re. wanting speed vs. quality, I think I'm in that bucket. I print a lot of functional parts, which don't really need the resolution these printers are capable of. In fact, I'm currently experimenting with printing functional parts directly on the build plate with no external support, because: parts sooner, less cleanup, less waste, fewer hours on the screen. Thank you for your verification tests on the M5s with clear film and longer exposures! It's nice to know I can go either fast or accurate with that printer, with proper choice of release film, resin and exposure times.
Thanks, ilea’s interested to know the value here
I have 3 of the M5s printers. As you said, I can not tell much difference. In fact, I love these printers, the prints are super smooth, as if the items are plastic injection molded. Layer lines are minimal and most of the time I can't even see any at all at 50um layer hight. The M5s has extremely slow slicing in Lychee BTW. If you like printing big models like tanks or robots, or hordes of infantry at a time the M5s is a great printer.
@dannyslag I've been printing at 50 and the results still blow me away.
i fully agree with you on this ive been using my m5s for a month now and at this point i think Fauxhammer has no clue what he is talking about.
@vashshadow I don't know, to be honest, maybe the pre-release versions are a bit different? No idea, maybe he preferes Elegoo. 🤷♂️
@@mordenthex8554 Hey, could you pls elaborate a bit about printing settings you are using? You mentioned you are at 50um layer height, are u using High speed resin?
@syph2011 print settings vary by resin type and even brand as they all have different chemical compounds or ratios of those compounds. My settings wouldn't work for others. I do not use anycubic resin at all, so I can't help with their fast resin.
Great video!
I'm currently using a AnyCubic Photon Mono SE since 3 years (?) now and I'm starting to print more and more now, so I'm considering a change to have more quality (and WiFi features that makes sense).
I print 99% of the time miniatures, do you suggest to switch to a Photon Mono M5 or just jump to another printer company? Thanks in advance!
I purchased an M5 on sale, upgraded from my Mono 2.
So far, I'm loving the detail and the bigger build plate. Can't complain apart from the Little plastic legs!
Any chance we can get a test of ACF film and high speed resin on a DLP machine? On the surface it seems to me the precision of the dlp light + the mechanical softening of the acf might be a perfect match.
Buyed one M5 through your links. Hopefully it works, Anycubic opened everything I clicked on theire homepage in a new window/tab.
Thanks for all the information you gathered and compared, it helped me a lot. =)
it should still work, and thank you!
@FauxHammer please can you share with us the base exposure layer settings that you have settled on when using the m5 vat and NFEP film? :)
As someone with the mighty 8k and having a 12k upgrade kit on the way, this was great to hear. I was concerned after seeing your first video going over the m5s and its quality problems since the entire selling point of "12k" is presumably the quality upgrade lol
Bought the m5s in pre-sale I'm happy to.know I can get the print detail quality on it
I picked the m5s as early bird so wasn't that expensive. To me, speed will allow to get quicker prototypes while designing my own 3d model so I can see if keys are fitting well enough or if the piece needs modifying etc. Good to know about the fine details, but been able to print really nice small stuff using the Elegoo 8K resin so far.
Thank you. Just today i canceled my preorder m5s and buy elegoo saturn 3 ultra after reading your toplist of printers on your website
Glad it seems that the Saturn 3 is a good deal as I needed the extra height capacity. But be careful because the Ultra comes with an ACF film as the M5s, so for better quality it seems you will have to replace it
@@guillaumevanoost811yes! I will switch to nfep as soon as posible when acf film will be destroyed
Great review much waited. Thank you! On a previous video you mentioned Anycubic said to you that their the any of these printers are less detailed then 8k prints. I wonder if it’s actually less then 10” 8k printer, like the m3, mighty 8k or saturn 2, and how is the quality compared to the new 12k machines of elegoo and phrozen. Same screen - better results?
Many thanks for this series of videos.
I pre-Orderd the M5S a few weeks ago. Without any research for it.
I've had some issue with my Mars2 and magnetic sheets. They all seem to be a tiny bit different so the leveling is not always on point. Thats why my main sellingpoint for this was ABL followed by WiFI & Size.
But when i see your first video regarding printquality of the M5s i thought about trying to cancel my order.
Luckily you did all the other videos about M5/M5s & now awaiting my M5s in good hopes.
One day i WILL buy another Vat anyway. therefore the small difference in print-detail isnt that much of a consern right now.
I’m really happy this helped you.
I have used resin and fdm for a couple of years now, and in truth the 3 printers i have work very well for what i ask of them. The reason i chose the 5s is for the auto level and error detection. Anycubic are stepping into new ground with these features, i believe it will become more common in upcoming printers from all manufacturers, its called progress and innovation, for example... Motor sport innovation leading to motor car standard equipment, disk brakes, semi automatic gearbox, all wheel drive, active suspension and not forgetting flappy paddles. I know cars and printers are a world apart in usage, but we all must see and acknowledge that progress is defined by new ideas, new ways of usage, and anycubic are doing this with the self auto level and error detection. I just hope that the anycubic tech works well and where needed is improved even more.
For me speed it's really important and sometimes it's more important than quality. I have saturn 2 for be such a slowly printer.
Fair enough, interested why though, what you print and what's the function.
Great video. I ordered an M5s and am planning to use the Siraya tech nFEP. You mentioned in the video that you had to significantly increase the initial layer exposure (hypothesized as being attributed to the thickness difference of ACF vs nFEP). What numbers did you see? I'm going to do setup and calibration soon, and I would love to get an idea of what you observed. I've heard others had issues too, but they tried doing things like adding supports which seemed to work (their hypothesis was that the force detection had issues with very small prints - ie. small calibration print objects). Your hypothesis sounds the more likely, given ACF is attributed to having easier release, which would go a ways to explain only the initial layers being impacted. So yeah, i'd love to hear the numbers you saw (as a good baseline for comparision). :). Keep up the great work. You have a new subscriber!
You may have already figured this out, but it would have been helpful info to have. I have been working at this and had to go up to 50 seconds to get something to stick. I have now gone down to 40 seconds and am going to keep going down until it fails. I'm just throwing this out there if someone else is trying to get an idea of what a "significant increase" looks like.
Edit - I settled on 35 seconds. 34 would not stick. Hope this helps someone.
On the m5s what base exposure layers do you normally use and with the m5 vac on the m5s what did you use for your base exposure layers
I went for the M5s mainly due to not knowing any better but I'm glad if I want sharper prints I can swap the film. 1st resin printer but had filament printers for years.
Went with the m5s for the added functionality, resin detection being a bit of a big one (swapping between multiple printers and sizes, gets a bit hard to estimate how much resin I'd need).
Fast printing is interesting for engineering resins and prototypes, disposable casts also come to mind.
Did cave in for a sonic mini 8k s as well though. Don't mind the 'lower' build quality, it reminded me of my sonic mini... lasted since preoders been delivered on the same screen, hasn't failed and even printed a full warmamoth on it 😅
The vats, spare film, screen protector and other stuff is available now. They must be shipping from local now as they include free shipping for those parts where last week you had to pay extra
What was ur base layer exposure for the m5s while using the FEP sheets
I was worried about the details on M5s since I don’t need the speed and rather not switch to M5 (due to I got a significantly better price) so I can’t wait to use it!
In one of your videos about the M5/M5S you asked if anyone actually needs to do faster prints. Well, I think what we're getting to is the point where the resolution is simply good enough, and so getting a print out in 1 hour vs 3 hours is a big deal. And largely, I think the biggest issue is everyone is pushing 'what's the print resolution?' and trying to get better resolution, when we're at a point where you need macro lenses and magnifiers, finely tuned resins, and calibration models specifically designed to see small differences. But as long as reviewers are pushing specs and spending 90% of the video looking at calibration prints, then that's what customers will think is important.
If the real goal that Anycubic seems to be pushing for is 'Does it print a nice, smooth mini, reliably?' then I think content creators could help shape the perspective of people who're shopping by using tests that focus on what people want to DO with a printer: Print a nice miniature. I mean, sure, if you want to just invalidate a company's claims, then go ahead and try and push the specs, but for me (and I bet many others) it would be better if there were some way to do an objectively test a printer's ability to print a good clean mini, but would also just ignore resolution that's beyond what's needed. Maybe that's using a more durable resin (I love Siraya Tech Blu) that doesn't resolve past a certain level; just find something that ignores what people shouldn't worry about.
If someone could do a test that says 'If it passes this it's good enough' and see how well they can meet that and how quick and easy it is to print (things like autoleveling, fail detection, etc) would be far more beneficial to customers than trying to argue the nitpicky details of is it 2x or 2.3x better than I need?! The more content is focused on specs and resolution, the more people will keep thinking it's what they should worry about.
Yeah I agree, for the details of what I print for miniatures now. We passed that below 30-50 microns. All we get now is smoother surfaces.
The problem with doing this test is you need to print something tall, several times over at different speeds. To find the failure point and compare results.
And resin really matters, it really matters, which I learned today.
@@FauxHammer Yeah, I learned that as well when trying to get the Sirayatech Blu working. It's really hard to figure out a good test that's objective and just focuses on something subjective like 'good mini', and I help design tests for a living. Would be real good if we had one, and could compare printers against some sort of 'how well does it print minis' for things like smoothness, (no layer lines), reliability, ease of print, ease of cleaning, etc. But a lot would be more on the resin, like you said.
Thanks for this Video! I have the M3 Max and the M3 Premium, I was looking to get a small printer for small and more detailed things, would you suggest this one? Or something else?
Check out my summary video in a couple of weeks.
Good review
speed I need to get those minis for my weekly dnd sesh
I hv got a M5s ..was disappointed with the print quality and anycubic market it as 12k …but your video have given me hope of changing the clear film ..Thanks u so much doing this video .. appreciate it from the bottom of my heart 🙏🏻 .. will get an M5 vat to switch btw
I got the M5s but haven’t had time to set it up yet. My primary use case is tabletop miniatures, but speed is what piqued my interest. Because I like a variety of miniatures available. So I want the ability to print a number of them. The 12k is nice in that I thought I could get pixel size like my Phrozen mini 8k, but with a bigger plate. More Minos per plate and more runs per time unit. Now, I may find that I can’t handle that much production (no, just personal use right now), but that was my use case. Well also I’m a bit of a collector/hoarder so I want one of everything. But it’s great that I can change the film to improve the quality. Your previous videos were making me a little blue.
definetly prefer speed over quality on some prints when I'm testing out a model for prototyping. but often slow my settings when I'm printing something like a high detail bust. So I prefer to have the option to do both which it seems like from your video the m5s has.
Hello! just to understand, i would like to try swapping the fep, so basically i need to order the one for the M5? i do not care about speed obviously... Will i need to change any settings too?
how do you increase the base exposure layers when using the clear film.
Very interesting, thanks. I've ordered the M5s as it was so cheap back in that early release window. As you say, I'd prioritise detail over speed but I'm not sure I'd have changed to the M5 had I known it was coming as I'm really interested in the self-levelling and force detection also. Just one question, though. In terms of slicing and so on, could you select the M5 in Chitubox and so on in order to get the correct exposure (I'll swap the ACF for the nFEP) but then *print* on the M5s? Or will the file bugger up as it goes through doubtless subtly different hardware? Not sure about the intricacies of Chitubox files but I presume the answer is 'Nooooooooo!, so it would be good to know before I try it come August 😆😩. Thanks again for your efforts: very handy.
That's what I was wondering as well. The Anycubic slicer is making the M5 print slower, even with the M5S's individual settings, so its slicing it differently. Can you just slice for the M5S and print the sliced file on the M5 and does that get you the speed increase or does the M5 not accept M5S files, or does the different components sill result in slower prints? If you could do that, and get the same speed benefits, then the auto-leveling/failure detection is the ONLY thing the "S" has going for it.
I need to use the M5 NFEP as i damaged the one from my M5s and they are not available atm. So: @FauxHammer: how much is "substantially" increasing base layers? And: other parameters stay the same?
What would you guys say is the best resin printer for quality available today? Including auto bed leveling and resin runout detection?
Should always test with Siraya Tech Navy Grey imo, it prints super sharp but it's not brittle
Thank you!
speed vs quality I think comes to more of what you are printing. As you mentioned in the video when you print large figures you really won't really notice the loss in quality using the faster S but arguably you will see the most benefit of the increased speed since you are printing taller items on a regular basis. Same with the latest batch of FDM machines. If you printing larger prints, and more functional prints with lots of strait lines, be they tall or simply filling a good portion of your build plate you likely won't notice a loss in quality but make huge gains in reduced print times.
I was thinking the same thing. When printing my 24" tall figure some parts took a whole day to print and the wait was tedious. At that size I would forego quality that I can't see in exchange for speed.
Hello! Thank you for your reviews! I have one question. All print quality tests you start with a layer thickness of 0.05 mm. Although the specifications of almost all printers have a minimum layer thickness of 0.01mm. Why didn't you try the print quality at 0.01 layer thickness? Is it just really long? Doesn't it work or is it just a trick of the printer manufacturers that is not implemented in real life? Sincerely, Vitaly
I'm between the M3 and M5 or M5s, should I go with the older model since I heard is quite reliable??
As a beginner, the self-leveling feature of the M5s looks attractive, as the usual manual leveling of other printers appears to be a fiddly pain and you have to do it juuuust right or else. I guess you get used to it, but still. Elegoo states on their website about the Saturn 3 Ultra 12K, "After leveling once, there is no need for the hassle of repeated leveling.", but I wonder if that is true. I do wish the build height of the Anycubic M5s was a little taller such as the Elegoo Saturn 2 or 3 (Anycubic 200mm vs 250mm for the Saturn 2 8k and 260mm for the Saturn 3 Ultra 12k).
Im beginner too but believe me, leveling is not so difficult😂 it takes just 1 minute my friend showed me this and i was shocked that i even saw this as contra, i heard the auto level even causing damage due to its pressure system when leveling
Prototyping - I added two M5s to my shop specifically for their speed. I just finished one job where a Bambu X1 FDM would take 24 hours and the resin machine gets a higher resolution result in 1/5 of the time. I think there are very specific use cases for any of these machines and their benefits.
100% true
So I can use the m5 vat in the m5s to acheive the same detail as the m5?
I prefer quality over speed, the issue of speed even in FDM printers brings similar problems. The great thing would be if Anycubic would at least put the self-leveling feature on all of their new printers.
Cancelled my preorder. Thanks for the exhaustive comparisons, I'll wait and see if black friday brings something nice on 9-10" 28um printers, and if not stick it out another year with my photon mono 4k. Heck, just get into upcoming 8mm systems for a year and having a small print bed won't be nearly as much of an issue 😀
I like faster prints for what I model. I print mostly N scale buildings and don't have the need for extreme detail like you are showing here in these highly detailed figurines. However, when I print smaller vehicles that I need very fine detail, I switch to my Photon D2 DLP printer for that. SO, the M5s is the printer for me. I also have a Bambu Lab X1C for the speed. Again, for rapid prototyping of items where surface detail isn't critical. Although it's very capable of superb surface finish as well.
with what he is printing the moment you start painting you wouldnt be able to tell.
So I still didn't catch the answer for - how does M5s with nFEP and standard resin prints on high motor speed with TSMC (like 50/600 / can go any higher?)? Do we have the same quality compared to M5 (same screen) but with superior speed, auto leveling and failure detection for $120 more?
Nice. So I can buy a M5 vat for my M5s. Keen on what settings you used for Anycubic resin (not the fast) with the M5 vat?
On your question, would someone need speed - well yes for me I just want to print boxes to hold PCB boards. This is for prototyping a build for a new - what ever, as long as the lid fits on the base and It holds and test the PCB and any LCD display - job done. This is why I got a 3d printer. But... also why not have fun also :)
I found the M5s to be a lifesaver. I was preparing for San Diego Comic Con when my other printers failed me. I had a m5s already on pre-order, but it turned out I could get it in 2 days via amazon, so I canceled the pre-order to get the printer immediately. I was able to finish multiple large pieces for the con in time. I wound up wearing out the release film and replacements were on back order, so my printing came to an abrupt end, but I had 3 large pieces done and even several replacement pieces done. I didn't see any loss in quality. In fact, I saw less distortion due to the release film plus some new settings in lychee for projection supports. In that case, speed was an important factor, but I also found that, until the release screen wore out, it was difficult to get a failed print on that machine.
yep i dont think he understands anything about this printer or printing in general there are very good reasons for a printer like this and if you learn how to use it right its a great printer.
wait what?! I got mine on anycupic for $399
@@DragonProtector you can get a mono 6x for $300. I use that for my glow-in-the-dark manananggal because it was my first and its the only affordable machine that has a large enough build volume, but the m5s has double the resolution and prints 3x faster.
@@SpectralInkProductions Yea and this was my first printer so did I do good?
@@DragonProtector I still use the mono 6k. Its a good printer for the price, though you can probably get an 8k version from Elegoo for about the same price. Slightly smaller build volume though, which is why i still use the mono 6k
I only want the M5s for the autobed leveling. 😅 I wonder if more printer will adopt that feature. I'm not to 3d printing and leveling the bed is something I struggle with.
Can you use a vat for the M5 on a M5s?
EDIT: Sorry, I just noticed you show this in the video at 7:30. Thanks
I think this probes if you pre ordered the m5s does not make sense to cancel it and pay the same or more for the m5
so i wonder if just slowing the printer down and taking exposure settings down a bit and smaller layer height would net good detail whilst not replacing the acf film for a traditional fep
Nope
Looking at getting my first resin printer. If I was to get the M5s, and the M5 resin vat separately so that it was clear... how easily do you think one could find the sweet spot between M5 quality and M5s speed?
I'm mostly interested for tabletop miniatures, so fast-ish with solid quality would be the ideal (and I understand, may be not possible) scenario.
Honestly, By spending less money and getting a Saturn 4 Ultra
@@FauxHammer Yeah, those are nearly double the price of the M5s here lol
I'm thinking about getting the m5s because I want to make production parts . They are not complex shapes so the m5s speed is a huge advantage.
Saturn 3 Ultra is cheaper and faster
That app on the S model looks like a Tuya app, I wonder if you could use the generic Smart Life app to access the printer from the smart home interface there (and subsequently homeassistant)
Chances are the reason why the UI is different on the M5S is because they had to use a different main board to communicate with the Tuya Cloud ecosystem, and therefore needed different firmware.
Honestly, I could really use the option for super fast prints at *massive* layer heights. Sure most of what I print on my SLA machine today are minis. But my FDM printer just gave in and being able to print larger parts fast could allow me to simply not buy a new one and only focus on my SLA machines.
The one caveat I would offer is that even with specialty resins, there's a difference in both the quality and the properties of resin prints. The most flexible and soft resins are still more brittle than regular ABS, let alone nylon or TPU. You can't really get away with the really thin walls an FDM print can pull off and resin prints are almost always heavier than equivalent FDM.
I have a Phrozen Mega 8K, which has a build volume pretty close to a standard mid-sized FDM, but even so, there is still stuff that just works better on FDM. Even with the most suitable resin, something like a Cosplay Armour/Suit is going to work better printed FDM. Hopefully, they continue to improve and refine resin development and we see even more variety in resin types and properties (metallic or conductive resins, light-weight etc) but for now, I still see a need for FDM.
Printing terrain for miniature games it may not be a big deal the difference in layer height for speed. It looks like m5 vats are for sale at Anycubic for $45 so you could theoretically get one and just change out between the two if you want detail or you want speed.
So Anycubic Photon Mono M5 vs Anycubic Photon Mono M5s
The prices have sky rocketed.
Anycubic Photon Mono M5s is listed for near $800 and I got it for $399
If I press the home button on Anycubic Photon Mono M5 vs Anycubic Photon Mono M5s. Will the thing go down and break the screen?
I’m curious if you’ve noticed any differences between the m5 and m5s resin vats? They’re both up for sale now, but at slightly different prices.
Thank you for a very helpful video!
the only difference is that one comes with ACF and the other comes with PFA. it's an identical vat from what i could see
@@FauxHammer Thank you!
I just looked at their website and it looks like you can buy a M5 vat for $45.
Always something else to do. You should test the ACF on a DLP.
i canceld my preorder. at the moment i am happy with the M3. maybe i will upgrade later to Elegoo Mars 4. that one is 18 x 18μm. just not sure about which resin i should use. till today i always use grey elegoo resin
I want a M5s because i do most of my printing when Im at work. Having the printer detect when a print has failed is a big enough bonus to make this my next printer. I'll just swap out the acf film... Unless Anycubic is still doing that thing where you have to buy their proprietary films at which point I'll wait until 3rd party vats come out before getting one.
Yeah, it is great when it does that
3D printer manufacturers need to stop listing based on approximate screen resolution, and start using micron resolution on each axis.
An 8K on a 15" display is a much lower resolution than an 8K screen on a 7" display.
"slightly sexier UI." i mean, sometimes a *Good* UI makes all the difference in the world, even at a higher pricepoint
I think there is a compromise between speed and quality. It would be nice to print faster so I can get a couple more prints done in a day for selling models.
I have a m5s with a standard film, i.e. the matte one. This is my first resin printer and so far I only have dlp craftsman gray resins. I am testing and on Validation_Matrix_v2.200701 in the bottom bar I have all the slots visible above it I have all the lines visible none of them are loose. I have 14 pins and 10 holes (I can see more because of 13 but they are shallow so I shouldn't count them?). I don't have a microscope so I look at it with the naked eye. Does it even make sense to calibrate it more using a resin that is not 8k?
It’s not about right or wrong when it comes to calibration. It’s personal tastes
Print like that, are you happy? If not reduce exposure a little, but you risk support failure.
So many people want perfect when it comes to exposure. But if you let go of that thought and print what you are happy with. That is much better for you
@@FauxHammer now i have 13 holes and 14 pins.
Since the exposure is still a bit long, the supports should hold stronger. For now, however, I would like to find this perfect exposure and then do tests for supports and, if necessary, increase its time until the supports are good. Then we'll see how much detail is really left.
Already sending my M5s back because the build plate is not leveling, and support hasn’t told me a way to level the build plate left/right.
I value speed on fdm on my prints since i mostly print big cosplay prints that i sand and post process a lot, I guess the same would be true for resin prints made for cosplay that i will sand anyways
By looking at build quality i'm really surprised how they(elegoo and anycubic) costs 30% more than equal creality printers which feels solid(apart from crappy firmware customization ofc)
I do have a use case for speed over quality. I make small N-scale trains, and often times I have to prototype parts and check for fit. FDM is faster, but some of the parts I use just can't be done with FDM due to how tiny they are. Even though there is a drop in quality with the M5s fast resin printing, it's still higher than what I can do with FDM. That's why I'll be getting the M5s, but also why I won't be ditching my Mono 4k or Photon D2, as I have a need for both speed and detail depending on the situation.
Thank you, this is the first example I have seen where someone has a valuable use case.
But I’m sure even you can understand that this feature is a niche if a niche. So for the vast majority of users, this is more of a detriment
@@FauxHammer I agree 100%. Your video is saving people money who otherwise might have shelled our an extra $100 for the M5s when the M5 does exactly what they need for less cash.
+1 ... I have a similar use case, I do think the resin printer space is hyperfocusing on quality vs strength / speed people who prototype need. That anycubic nylon green abs like resin is the strongest stuff I've used so far FDM or SLA just wish there was a way to fast print with it.
I have an M3. Ordered the M5 for the larger build plate, and better quality..
I asked Anycubic to switch out my M5s order to the M5 and they sent me the M5s anyway but I'm still missing half the order lol. I'll be in contact with them soon, but I'll probably stick with the M5s. It only cost me $10 more so really no big.
Ha! I made the other way, changed my m5 order to the m5s order, payed the difference price... Now I am waiting for this review, but I believe that only changing the film will be the print detail solution. I will keep the m5s too.
@@sgollegai too hope for this
I just got an M5S and because of these videos I m going to be ordering an M5 vat and FEP sheets to get that extra quality.
I don't really care about the speed, but not having to level the bed is a huge draw for someone like me who is considering getting into resin printing.
It's just one less thing to worry about while you get into good saftey habits etc.
Will likely end up getting an M5s later in the year.
@fauxhammer can you confirm, that the two vats are identical? There is an option on the anycubic website to buy one for the M5S and for the M5, but the latter is 15€ cheaper. The same goes for the FEP film, 2 for 50€ vs 2 for 35€... I got the S, and would of course like to take the suggested course of having 2 vats with different films installed!
Yeah, I just swapped the vats
Did you have to change any settings when you did?
@@williamconvery4572 yeah,, base exposure time
How much? I have massive adherence problems, using Elegoo Abs like 2 . Have changed to 60s exposure and it still won't stick...
@@Flashhawk2k that sound more like a levelling issue. I'd relevel and go again. You may also be ivercuuring the base layers. Which will stick it yo the fuel more than the plage
Try 25-35s
had the two of them. the M5s autolevel is not allways good. Mini moldels are not sticking in the center of the platform and its becuase of the Autoleveling. If there is any trouble in the future with autoleveling, you cant level it youself. there is just no options to manualy calibrearte on the M5s. Thats why I prefer the M5. You can still calibrate the plate manualy.
can you say when your phrozen 12k review comes out?
I haven't had the kit yet, but I have a meeting with Phrozen in the morning.
@FauxHammer looking forward to it. I'm sure it's worth the wait compared to anycubic and elegoo's 12k printers
I'm having a lot of issues...every print i start, the M5S can't remove the layer frome the nfep i installed...it's really frustating
If I were you, I would join the Facebook support group fir this printer
Anycubic makes this claim about standard resin+ "The molding accuracy range has been increased from ±0.2mm to ±0.1mm". Can someone explain what molding accuracy is in relation to resolution? I would like to see a comparison between this resin and others. Does this relate to sharpness?
on your advice, i'll buy another vat and a nfep film for my m5s, because i still need the speed when i'm printing base , because it's usually the last part i print, i do it separately because sometime it made my print fail on my previous printer. Doing it in 1h max instead of 5h, it's a god send to prevent me getting demotivated and switching to something else, and also, i don't care as much for the details on my bases. same for the weapon on my bigger model, they cans have less detail,; and i usually manage to sand them easilly.
fair enough, if it works for you, that's what matters most.
Anycubic have made a Version 2 build plate as the one being sent out with them is 2mm to short! It's in the Anycubic replacement build plate video! We are all having to fill out these tickets for technicians jsut now so many with the same issues! You guys must have got printers that were gone over with a fine tooth comb to review as so many complaints in the M5s has made Anycubic make this new build plate with 4 adjustments hex bolts under a cover on the side of the new replacement build plates! So hopefully they are now starting to ship these to customers we are awaiting response we sent our ticket in today!
I’m just heard, glad I did because I’d put in my comparison video that this was not an issue. But sounds like it’s a pretty big one
I’d like to learn more about this. What are the issues? What ticket are you sending?
@@FauxHammer Do you already know more about this topic? Which part is to be replaced, what effect does it have on the prints?
links are dead
I **KNOW DOUBT** would rather have the speed vs "quality" in this context which I understand "quality" to mean high resolution details. I don't need the details as much as I need that other world strength that ABS like resin prints can give seeing I'm making structural parts for RC models.
I am no doubt thinking of using this printer or another fast resin printer with Phrozen's nylon green if I can get the viscosity down by heating the resin up first and keep it hot in under a hot box.
I think that's the use case 3d Resin printer space has ignored; making strong resin parts faster than FDM. Right now resin prints can be made stronger than FDM apple to apple but its punch me in the face slow.
Cranking out prototypes in half the time, absolutely speed is a thing. Goes for printing a iteration over night, to over lunch.