Anycubic Photon M5s Unboxing and First Print
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2023
- Lets Unbox the newest offering from Anycubic the M5s. They say there is no need for leveling anymore.
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Great to see a full unboxing and I love that you kept the video in real-time as it was printing even if it was a slow print due to the resin used. definitely a great all around unboxing and first print. This is going to be my first resin printer and I can't wait!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great review. Thorough and complete. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great honest review!
Mine is supposed to ship in about 20-30 days 🍻
Thank You.. I hope you like it!
Best wishes from Brazil!!
Thank you. Pass the word on the channel and we can get all of Brazil here.. We welcome you.
Great vid Ken
Thank You
Saw another unboxing on this printer and canceled my order the guy was very vague in his assessment of the printer and so it made me suspicious of his "honest" review, but you kept it real and that is very much appreciated. Good work. I still canceled my order.
That sounds like a good idea. The Hype never makes a good buy.
Hey thanks for the video! im very new to 3d printing and was wondering, when you say to increase the time on the first few layers so it has a better chance of sticking. how many layers would you suggest? Cause I had the same issue where it was just sticking to the vat and not the top plate.
I found that setting the 1st layers to 7 and time of first layers to 45 to 55 sec really helps. After you get your prints to stick then you can work on releveling the build plate and getting the times back into a normal area. This also depends on the temp of the resin. If the build plate is too smooth can cause a problem. you can also add a raft to the print and make it larger and that in turn will give more area to stick to the build plate and not the FEP.
I really liked your last 3 minutes of trouble shooting.... My print failed because of the low bottom layer exposure... i increased to 50 second... its sticking... seems like my print is going to be success
I find that is the first thing I look at with failed prints. If I make manual supports then I look at myself lol
I bought the same printer, watched your video and unpacked and set up my own. Only it didn't work, I tried many things. The plastic stays on the film. Even when I set the print time of the first layer to 35 seconds.
I decided to delve deeper into the problem, thinking I hadn't figured out how to adjust the platform!
And all I had to do was watch your video to the end 😅
I'll try it tomorrow with 55 seconds for the first layers 🤞
Glad I could help, It always makes me feel good to here from my followers that they had a good experience.
I'm deciding to buy this device right now. It is unpacking and explaining the steps. make me understand more and no worries to use In Thailand, no one has ever made a video clip like this. Thank you.
Just to add one thing is the Fan is Loud. The test print off the USB that comes with it is 25Sec for the first layers and I could not get it to stick on the print bed. I had to increase that to 55 sec.
@@kenstechlab Thanks for the great advice. i will remember
Instead of making feet I just took a board (I had a relatively thin, but sturdy square for laser engraving) and ran a few thick line of hot glue on both sides, which rapidly dried as hot glue guns do, and had an instant rubbery high friction platform.
that is very cool, send pic!
Sorry just to be clear I have to se the value from 25 to 55 where it says Bottom exposure time, correct? This can be done in the slicer prior as well?
Yes that is correct. If you add your resin information and set the bottom layers they will stay the same when you select that same resin for your print.
The only reason besides the nice review you got my Like is the Song in the timelaps... I Love to Play Ragnarock
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got mine yesterday and set it up. first print failed. I will try to see if I can figure out how to increase the exposure and try that. Wasn't happy. Isn't it supposed to identify the print failed? It did not and kept going. I will raise the bottom exposure to 55 like you recommend. I was wondering if I needed to calibrate the auto level some how?
Sad to hear about the failed print. Failed is ok but the cleanup is what makes a failed print so so bad. You can change the first layer in the slicer settings. I use Lychee slicer and that holds the printer and resin brand. it will have how many layers will be your bottom like 6 or 7. then the time for bottom layers. 55 sec or whatever you feel that is best.
How do test prints work that come with the USB? i mean they don't have the resin calibrated into them, they can't work with all resin surely?
that is 100% true, I found that out real quick with the failed test prints. When I loaded them into the slicer and made changes to the first layers all was good. The environment makes so much of a difference for each different resin's.
I've received mine and it's EFFING LOUD! during exposure. Fan spins like an jet engine
Yes, This printer is very loud with the fan. I have printed a few more times since this video and yes it's loud. The M3 premium has as good printing without the noise.
they prob just have 3 pin fan to always spin max setting@@kenstechlab
Ken - your voice is only mixed to the left channel. You need to mix it to both left and right.
Sorry, I did not notice, I have it in mono but I am still new to DaVinci and could have made the change without my notice. All editing is on my Mac Book pro M1.
The Z tower is exactly the way they done the new mono 2 and without that Z screw attached at the top I'm getting deep shift line about 2 inches up ever model it's a diagonal line just the 1 but happens everytime! I don't use it much now only for low small parts for my model tanks I use my saturn 2 8k for any figure sculptures etc so I can see that being a massive issue you pointed out! Another thing is the weight again not what I want in a printer! yeah you have definitely helped me make up my mind on the saturn 3 ultra or m5s and the m5s is getting left behind!
I think Anycubic made a mistake with this one, I know they wanted to get a 12k out before the masses but cutting corners is not the way.
Does it require files to be run through a slicer first?
All 3D printers require a slicer to convert your STL to a file that your printer can use. This includes if your APP will send the file directly to your printer, it just uses the apps slicer. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the in-depth review. They get cheaper and cheaper in qualiy everytime, it's a shame.
I agree!, the only new innovation on this unit is the Auto Level. The 12K and speed is not a real thing.
I just got mine and for some reason it keeps telling me to refill my resin vat but my resin vat is full.
This printer has some new checks that have not been seen before, I did notice that you can shut them off. I would look to make sure you have removed all plastic protective covers. I had a failed print and it told me that the print was falling off the build plate. The error your seeing is from the force when it hits the resin. You might need to open a support ticket with Anycubic also.
I completely trashed the screen protector xD, just going to use the resin vat on it without the screen protector until more get here.
Just be carful, that screen is not cheep.
Haha yeah, im probbobly not going to use the one with the messed up screen protector, i got a second one and i got the screen protector on fine, so ill just use that one untill i get more.@@kenstechlab
I have the same kind of problem, the piece fails to adhere to the print plate but remains attached to the fep. I've tried several times both with the default files and putting at 60 seconds the base exposure sticks, but with my files with the same detail they don't stick. I contacted the support I really think I will give it back.
Help me please!😭
I found with this printer adding an extra base area when its in your slicer, supports are one thing but the amount of material that binds to the build plate also makes a difference, I can tell you that I really am not happy with the Anycubic Photon M5s. This is only my opinion and you know how that works. :)
@@kenstechlab yeah i think so! I really think i’ll give it back. I contact the anycubic support. I'll let you know.
Thanks for answering me
Woof way to high 55s that screen won't last long! 28 to 30 s on my other anycubics 4 reasons now not to go for this!
for some reason I cannot get it to stick except to the FEP when using the normal bottom layers at 20 to 30 sec. 55 for the bottom 7 seem to make it work.
That stupid screen protector is impossible to install without bubbles or dust under it. Perhaps if Anycubic used a glass screen instead of plastic we wouldn't have to have a screen protector. Cost cutting at its finest.
You are absolutely correct!!, I could not install it without bubbles. It has not affected my prints yet. The Fep sheet is the print issue though.
Hey @@kenstechlab that doesn't sound good - what issue are you having with the FEP sheet?
The new FEP that is on most of the new 12K printers are not clear FEP but have a coating on them. With some testing I have found that this has reduced the overall sharpness of the prints and running the curing test print. it is not as good as a 8K with clear FEP. I have seen one reviewer that took his other Anycubic VAT with a clear FEP and was able to get the same good results that we expect from Anycubic., Since the poly's on the screen are not square you cannot get a real resolution of 12k from this printer. That is OK with me as long as we have great looking prints with little to no layerlines.
Hey @@kenstechlab thanks. I noticed it was cloudy. I haven't run the printer as yet, still getting a space set up for it. Which other Anycubic vats will fit it? M3MAX? I might buy another one and put clear fep film in it. As you say, I'm not fussed on getting 12k res out of it as long as the prints look good.
I had my sister do mine and she got it without bubbles. Just one tiny dust spot near the edge and there was a dent in the screen protector if push down on it
sorry but the M5s is a shit machine i printed 5 big models slow and the acf was allready useless i put new acf on and since then it dont print at all always empty or with a solid 300g rectangular cube of cured resin. i checked the lcd and its working i checked print bed took the holer apart and since then it print a very thin resin exposure test with almost no detail on it. i dont know what to to and the printer is also not fast even with highspeed resin it takes 3-6 hours. my saturn 3 ultra i have 30 big prints with never a failure and it prints in 1 hour or max 2 and a half for full size prints.
Elegoo did the best resin printer i have ever used its insane how fast it is with normal abs like resin i do not even need to take the fast resin. elegoo nailed it with the machine also sharp details and never ever a failed prints and the acf holds also over 60.000 layers instead of 30.000 anycubics.
Hello q2lamer, if you have read my other replies you will see that I agree with you totally, the Anycubic M5s is the worst printer they have produced. It’s loud made cheap and prints are not great. I will be adding the WamBam plate to it when I get back from vacation to see if the Autolevel will work with it. I will also change the FEP out to a clear to see if the prints are better. I don’t care about the speed as much as the quality of the prints.
@@kenstechlabDid you get a chance to make the changes, and did they help?
Also, still worst anycubic printer in your opinion? Does that mean it is a terrible resin printer, or just below expectations for Anycubic?
Compare with Saturn 3 ultra 12k pls 🤗
I would love too, The only problem is I do not own one. Since I purchase all this stuff personally everyone around me already thinks I am crazy lol.
With all due respect but charcoal filters are useless . I have M3 Premium with 2 carbon filters and they are not making any difference what so ever . I have installed a “small” PHRESH carbon filter wit exhaust fan , created negative pressure in the space where printer is located and only then I was able to prevent resin odour from escaping . When you started to talk about multiple failed prints I recalled having the same issue in the past , turned out to be that settings for the first layers were not correct ( same as in your case ) . Thanks for the video 👋
I understand about the carbon filters, on my Elegoo the box is much bigger and has a hole for the air system to vent the resin smell. I almost kicked myself when I found the issue as I should have checked that first but sometimes I get tunnel vision and cannot see the issue at first.. Thank you for the reply!
that fan is LOUD
Yes it is, so far this printer is on the bottom of my list. I just ordered a WamBam plate for it and I will see if the auto level will compensate for the extra Z height.
Promo_SM 💖
I never did a reply to this but I did see it.