I Almost Gave Up On Resin. Then This Happened.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video I'm going to share my five reasons why the AnyCubic Photon Mono M5S is one of the most cutting edge consumer resin printers on the market today. Thanks to AnyCubic for sponsoring today's video. Check out their Resin 3D Printers at jle.vi/anycubic
The AnyCubic Photon Mono M5S kind of blew me away. I didn't LOVE Resin 3D Printing last time I tried it. But with this printer... I think I'm into it now. In this video, I'll share why, and give you my honest impressions on this cutting-edge resin 3d printer.
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🎥 IN THIS VIDEO: 🎥
00:00 Introduction
00:27 Background
02:22 Reason No. 1: Huge 12K Display
03:06 Reason No. 2: Ridiculous Speeds
05:00 Reason No. 3: No Bed Leveling
06:01 Reason No. 4: It's Smart
07:15 Reason No. 5: Connectivity & Interface
08:25 AnyCubic Photon Workshop
09:36 Conclusion
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Thanks so much for watching! Please make sure to let me know what you thought of the video in the comments :)
I really like the era of printing where I just press the button and it works. I've fought the good fight with my printers over the last decade and I have learned a ton about how printers work, and how to solve problems. I got a BambuLab X1 Carbon and I've sort of been shocked into this reality of just being able to print stuff without having to get into weeds about *why* it prints the way it does. It's fantastic.
I also can't help but feel like if we don't know the why and how our printers work, we're losing something and inevitably everything is going to go closed source. I don't want all of the modern 3D printing technology to be locked behind patents for the next 20 years.
It's no suprise that 1600$ printer is working fine out of the box.
@@classicalbets5184 many aren't. Prusa xl for example
@@classicalbets5184 Most decent printers these days do. It's so weird how many people still act like you need to pay thousands or have to waste tons of filaments or other nonsense.
Most printers even cheaper ones like the M5C, A1 Mini, V3 SE etc. are all completely automated, leveling, z offset, etc.
black background is really cool! keeps the eyes on you and the product and keeps it all nice and clean. great job!
Thanks! Honeycomb wall coming soon...
Would love to see engineering models printed in resin, everyone does the mini's, creatures, and movie models you dont see a lot of discussion of resin for "useable" parts like FDM
Yea, it's annoying how there's almost nobody talking about serious stuff, everyone is just obsessed with useless prints. I haven't seen any reviewer talk about part accuracy, measuring the shrinkage, tolerances, etc.
It's because resin prints are more brittle.
But I printed a hose adapter for our pool with a resin printer because it was more accurate and watertight than the fdm one.
@@MarieLuiseOrlandthere are "engineering" resins, which, although more expensive than the normal resins you use for miniatures etc, can be very hard and resistant, some you can even tap them to accept bolts and screws, and withstand heat a lot better than any filament
@@derbigpr500 there are plenty of people talking about that, if you look for it.
I am an FDM guy but I appreciate all your content.
I'm a beginner in 3D printing, and I don't own a printer yet. When I buy one it's going to be one of the nicer model that "just works" so thank you for calling that out as the new era as I am tired of hearing I need to go through the same hell/rite of passage everyone else apparently has. I work in IT and I am past the point of wanting to fix things like printers when I get home and want to do something as a hobby to de-stress.
3D printing will either be fun with only minor tweaks and optimizations needed to work (I'm not discounting tweaks/optimizations for the fun of it, rather there shouldn't be a lot *required*), otherwise I won't get into the hobby/effort/craze/whatever. Thanks again for pointing people to a new way of thinking for beginners.
I really love the concept of resin printers, I just cannot imagine dealing with the mess.
Yeah. The mess sucks.
@thenextlayer i do have a Elegoo Saturn S , and after having it for more than a month , i decided it was to much of a hassle also due to the space it's occupying, my best advice is that you need to have enough space, preferably a designated room for it , not just for the machines , but for the post processing also , I love the detail but I went route and packed it down, and decided to go further in fdm printing and bought My fourth 4 printer , a Bambulab X1C And it's been a blast
And what to print with it?
I rather stay with my FDM printer and can print functional parts.
@@Todestelzer there's plenty of "engineering" resins for functional parts. some you can even drill and tap, and can withstand higher loads than FDM printed parts
The printer detects pressure through the arm attaching the build plate, it can detect when it touches the surface of the resin and ofc when it reaches the bottom of the vat and can calculate volume present. During a print cycle, it detects the pressure when peeling the print off the fep, if there’s no pressure then the print has separated from the build plate.
It’s all very clever but isn’t fully exploited in the m5s, that load sensing hardware is capable of so much more. Hopefully anycubic will develop firmware to enhance the features of the m5s
Looking forward to seeing what they do with it...
you seem to be knowledgeable with 3d printers. Bambu or this 1? for beginner. I know theres a big $$ difference + im guessing this 1 will have bugs to be worked out cause its new. Thoughts please and thank you
@@mackyd955it depends on what you want to do with 3d printing. For small highly detailed items then resin printers are the thing for you. If it’s larger functional parts then filament/fdm printers are generally best.
The bamboo labs printers are extremely good but extremely complicated to operate and in particular maintain the printer’s components. With 3d printers it’s not how easy they are to use and setup, it’s more to do with how easy it is to undertake repairs as all 3d printers wear and break parts.
Resin printers tend to be more simple in design and functionality but resin printers come with a whole lot of different challenges when compared to fdm printing.
I would highly recommend both the printers you have listed but then again if your new to 3d printing I would not recommend them either,
@@Happy3dprinting thank you
How did you get resin on the usb?
What I do wish to know the build plate in the M5s is it solid like the mono 2 one or soft cast alloy like the mono 2k and 4k build plates? I can't think it would be but looking at it I'm to sure? The mono 2 plate is solid you can't take a goudge out it like the mono 4ks cheap one!
What's the mechanism responsible for auto bed leveling on a resin printer? Is it just a loose bed thats tightened with some sort of servo the moment it's forced to the plane of the lcd screen?
I genuinely really like your takes on things. It's so nice to have someone who just does the things, gives the straight answer for the questions we all have.
What the heck is the tea on prusa slicer??? I wanna know now.
Mostly cuz I use it for my resin prints hah
Thanks for the video! I began 3D printing on the resin side with the first Elegoo Saturn and it went well for me, I didn't have half the problems I'd see posted on groups, but if the M5S had been available at that time, I would've easily picked it up as a beginner for the features. I mean, would you rather buy a car and drive it OR ride a horse, then a buggy, then a crank-started Model-T, and then a car with no a/c or power steering JUST so you can learn/appreciate the obstacles that have been overcome? No thanks. ;)
With technology changing faster & faster and usually for the better, I can see why Resin printing is also getting better.
From what I have seen & heard.................
Pros:
Super fine details in the prints
Faster than FDM printing
Starting to get larger in size.
Starting to be less smelly and possible less messy.
one color.
Cons:
Area still needs to be vented due to smell
Still have to wear gloves
Still have to clean & cure the print
Still have to clean the machine after each use.
Connectivity still needs to improve.
Need to paint your prints to look pretty.
If you need super fine details, Resin is the way to go. If you talk about time and add it up from start to finish including cleaning, Resin still wins.
Just as Bambu X1 Carbon changed the industry for FDM - it seems that AnyCubic & Elegoo are changing the Resin scene.
I kind of agree on the newbie hassle,although it is and probably will be the issue of low cost entry machines. They just don't have the features. I bought myself elegoo mars 3 and it prints crazy good,but i'm learning this printing technology myself,but what i can recommend is great lychee feature, sharing resin profiles. That's so much great feature,and will save you a lot of time and nerves. At least for me
It was mentioned there is exposure problem at this machine ? Also even at Anycubic site the pictures Show that for sample products there are scratches on the models ?
8k and 12k seems not big differences. Uniformation gktwo, photon M3, Mighty 8k, which one do you recommend?
Best beginners printer I can recommend is the Mono 2 unfortunately seeing your disaster doesn't put people off but honestly I've been using this printer along side my saturn 2 and what a package together there awsome! Never had an issue really with any unlike the mono 4k I have that's just well let's jsut say its going away in storage! Mono 2 though what a printer for the price I think it was user error that messed it up because I was new when it came out really a month into printing and never had an issue! The quality also is heck of an improvement! What I do wish to know the build plate in the M5s is it solid like the mono 2 one or soft cast alloy like the mono 2k and 4k build plates? I can't think it would be but looking at it I'm to sure?
Hello.. I want to buy a 3D printer and I am confused about choosing a 3D printer. What is the best 3D printer? Between Elegoo 12k , anycubic M5s , UniFormation
How do you get resin on the thumb drive? 😮
Thank you, great video as always!
I was wondering, what do you use for ventilation when printing ASA or ABS on the X1C, Where is your printer located and how do you deal with the toxic fumes? (this applies to resin printing as well).
Im waiting for my x1c to arrive in a few days and im trying to think of good solutions because its going to be placed in the same room where i spend most of my day at and i cant keep a window open 24/7.
I highly highly recommend printing the bento box air scrubber, I print loads of ABS and ASA on my X1CC in my office/bedroom, and this air scrubber removes ALL the smells and fumes so that I can be in the same room as the printer when printing
he vent air by lungs
I wanted to use the anycubic slicer but they don't have a version compatible to my computer. So I use the free version of lychee. It does it's job and can handle the file format for my anycubic printer. The ads while slicing are a little bit annoying but better then having a windows pc or mac.
I hate that I have to have an account for chitubox or lychee to use them. But they are the only once I know who support linux.
The lack of opensource in the resin printing area hit me hard. I didn't expected it after my experience with fdm printers.
just discovered you channel love it
Thnx for the great info, After a few years of ender 5 printing and 'Paying my dues' of learning through repair, I am Anxiously awaiting my X1 Carbon. I also started resin printing this year with the Mono X and have to say I agreed with your statement in the previous video as to the learning curve being about dealing with the resin not the Printer. Mono X has not done me wrong by any means , while not as SMART as this printer sounds, its great.
so your question, should you start at a better printer if you can?
I think it truly comes down to what you want. if you want the HOBBY start lower and learn how things work, it can be greatly rewarding when the print works after a dozen hours of research into why it keeps failing.
If you want cool nicknacks or to fire off a business of 3d printed parts, go for the X1 level machines. (i admit my opinion is purely from reviews and not the hands on)
I do think we are at a pretty cool cross roads of 3d printers, in a few years time the 'non Smart' printing is going to be a thing of Legends.
Nice congrats you’re gonna love it.
I've held off on it with everyone saying it's crap but I'm tempted again as waiting for the saturn 3 and saturn 3 ultra September and October dates are dragging in whare this is avaliable now to buy! I will get the saturn 3 aswell i have decided if the anycubic doesn't work out so back to TH-cam to look for better reviews I think the others have a gripe with anycubic being elegoo people if you know what I mean? It's like Samsung and apple of the 3D printers lol
I'm new to all of this yet I will be buying this or the uniformation printer. My way of thinking is buy the best
because this technology changes so fast that within a year or so the machine you just bought is outdated.
good vid friend thanks
I tend to agree
Hi I’m new to 3D printing. I just bought this machine used for a great deal only had 6 hours of printing time. But sadly it didn’t come with a usb. I tired a different usb but it won’t read. Is there a certain one I can use? Google ain’t help. Thanks
No idea but it’s probably a formatting thing on the USB. However. Just use the cloud service it’s great on these machines
Anycubics Beige ABS plus I'm using in my mono2 is like way less dense than water actually is!,if it certainly looks and prints great in the mono 2, it Might be a good resin for this m5s being so thin! I've never a resin as thin as this stuff till you go to Sunlu ABS Like! These 2 resins are so thin to the basics and elegoo resins, u actually think they'll work for the fast printing!
Resin can be some pretty nasty stuff when not handled correctly. I know you are following many safety precautions but have you set up a tvoc sensor in your work area?
I have one, haven’t plugged it in. Good reminder.
I use OctoPrint with a few plugins and Klipper, I get all of the benefits of the cloud but without the cloud. And I'm happy that my stuff is under my control and not subject to the whims of another organization. Also - what is this controversy? First time I've heard of it, what's going on?
What we never hear is how much more does the resin cost to feed the 12k printer and get the fast results.
It's currently USD98 for 3 litres with the coupon code on their site
@@originaltrilogy1 so double the cost.
@@mikegrant8031 Is normal resin $15 a litre?
I see your cover has already been splashed.
I wish resin printer makers would either apply an antistatic coating, or at least send a wipe and tell you in the manual to use it.
Every resin printer, wipe the inside of the lid with an anti static wipe. It'll prevent the resin from being pulled onto the cover by its static charge, left behind by removing the protective film, after finishing a print and raising to full height to drain.
"It's like a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon..."
Yeah, except it's under 1/3 the price and prints in much finer detail.
Yeah in that regard you can’t compare resin and FDM
4:41 Fotis Mint*
I'm sorry to hear that the first resin video didn't get the views you'd hoped for. I really liked it for its veracity. 3D printing is amazing, but sometimes frustrating, and it's nice to see somebody else suffering from time to time!
Unrelated to anything in the video, but very important thing a lot of people don't know: Unless AnyCubic notes otherwise (and this would be a big change b/c what I'm about to say is true for ALL resin printers), UV resin hoods are just colored plastic. They keep out debris, reduce drafts which can affect resin performance (especially with the more viscous strength-enhancing ones) & make ventilation modifications possible. THEY DON'T BLOCK UV FREQUENCY LIGHT. The resin in the vat is what shields the user from UV produced by the curing screen (unless you look into the back vent, which you... shouldn't, ever). Unlidded resin can cure in the vat if placed near a window or door.
Everyone assumes the lids are like sunglasses. They aren't. And honestly, even if manufacturers started putting UV-blocking film on them, wouldn't trust it once it got a few resin splashes or an IPA wipedown. Anti-UV film on plastic lens sunglasses is far more fragile than people realize.
Wow, thanks for posting this, it's super valuable and I had no idea.
@@thenextlayer Very glad. I assumed the same even though I'm used to being skeptical of freebie safety that comes with machines. Easily could have cured my vat & caused a big headache. Now I have an FDM vat lid printed for any new resin machine I buy before it even arrives. BTW Goobertown Hobbies has an AMAZING video called "Ph.D. Chemist Explains 3D Printer Resin" that addressed a lot of things I've wondered about the material since the first time I used UV cure glue decades ago.
Sorry, what are you basing this on? That's a little too general. Can't specifically say the same about Anycubic, but Dennys Wang had a UV light meter and tested 3 covers from Phrozen and 2 worked 100%, while one was only 50% effective. Anyone can probably do their own test by shining a UV torch through a cover and try to cure some resin. Link: th-cam.com/video/vAr6z81TZuI/w-d-xo.html
Bambu or this 1? for beginner. I know theres a big $$ difference + im guessing this 1 will have bugs to be worked out cause its new
Weird that you think the latest Anycubic MSLA resin printer will have bugs to be worked out when it's an incremental improvement of their long line of resin printers, but you aren't concerned about the Bambu folks who made drones starting a 3D printer company and rolling out a new cutting edge product with core XY kinematics and hollow carbon fiber tubes in place of the industry standard steel linear rods.
@@Liberty4Ever no, not weird if im a beginner and know nothing. TY for your input. Now i know. Which would you say?
@@mackyd955 - There is some new tech in the latest AnyCubic Photon Mono M5S resin printer. If you don't use the new fast (thin) resin you won't get the super fast prints, and it uses a new release film that's not totally proven, and there is always concern about a new higher resolution LCD and an intense UV light source needed to print fast until it's proven, and even if all of that goes well there is guaranteed to be the mess and hassle of cleaning and post curing resin parts which is no fun.
On the other hand, Bambu Lab shook up the FDM filament printing industry with their new faster printers but the company is a newcomer into the 3D printing industry and they use some bleeding edge technology to achieve those print speeds. It's yet to be proven whether the P1P or X1C last a long time and whether the company will continue to support their initial (and very proprietary) printers in a year or two when they come out with new printers or go bankrupt. I have $3000 worth of bad experience with QIDI not supporting their cutting edge 3D printers after they released newer printers, making them paperweights.
I own eight FDM 3D printers and two MSLA resin printers. I was building my own 3D printers when the only 3D printers for sale were $150,000 Stratosys commercial/industrial 3D printers. My current workhorse 3D printer is a $238 Sovol SV01. For over two years, it has printed almost every day, and sometimes all day. I've probably spent a couple of hours maintaining the printer - replaced a hot end heater and cleared two nozzle clogs.
Those new to 3D printing are naturally attracted to the latest and greatest, but that's probably a mistake. Even though the trend is to market these more expensive printers as simple turn key appliances for people who just want to create parts, these cutting edge devices are anything but simple.
I'm not suggesting that those new to 3D printing should suffer to earn their place or so they'll appreciate the education or any of that nonsense. By all means, take advantage of the technology, but the place to be is just behind the bleeding edge. I'd recommend buying a low cost but reliable 3D printer. Bed slingers (the bed moves in and out on the Y axis while the extruder moves left and right on an X axis gantry that also raises up in the Z axis for each layer) are now dismissed in the rush to core XY machines for speed, but the bed slingers are cheap and well proven. Most people print in PLA, and that's a pretty good choice, but after decades I've evolved what works for me. I print TPU filament on a textured glass print surface. There is no glue stick or other bed preparations. I print the first layer on a 75C bed and then turn off the bed heater for all subsequent layers. I print the first layer with a nozzle temperature of 230C and print all subsequent layers at 210C. TPU can be rubbery when printed with 1-2 outer layers and 10% density infill, or it can be hard as a hockey puck when printed with 4-8 outer layers and 25-50% infill. Once the bed is level and the nozzle height offset is calibrated (there are TH-cam videos demonstrating how to do that) printing TPU is very easy and very reliable. I routinely start a print and go to bed without waiting to verify that the first layer is well adhered. I can't remember the last failed print. Most of the frustration for those new to 3D printing is caused by first layer adhesion issues. I use tweezers to remove the little strand of filament that dribbles from the nozzle before the print, and after the print, I pick the part off the bed and peel off the nozzle priming skirt. Easy peazy. Parts with 0.2 mm layer height look nice and are structurally sound. Lately, I've been spending the extra time making parts with 0.1 mm layer height because they look very nice with a velvet sheen and very fine surface texture.
I recommend starting in 3D printing with something simple, focus on the basics of bed leveling and nozzle height. The new expensive machines do a lot of that for you and that is in their favor when recommending to newbies but they have so many other complexities and new technology that it more than negates the auto bed leveling advantage. After you print a Benchy or a couple of other toys, focus on learning 3D CAD, design optimization for 3D printing, and slicing the part to produce G code for the 3D printer. Unless you want to print other people's models, you need to be able to design your own parts to benefit from 3D printing. That's where the magic happens. The 3D printer merely enables the creation of custom parts. The actual creative process is the imagineering and rendering your custom part in CAD. I use FreeCAD but there are a few other viable 3D CAD options.
Got a 6Ks for sale
Thank you so much for end comment about beginners! I think the age of building everything yourself and leveling and releveling and releveling and releveling is over. Lol
Unless I know that the person is a tinkerer, I'll always recommend the appliance 3D printers if the budget allows. I don't want to be the support tech, and I'd rather see more people in the 3D printing hobby stick around.
You don't need to harp on about having an independent view and even that they sponsored you. We understand that you and others do this for a living and we love the video content. Get your sponsorship. Get your money and don't be so apologetic about it. It's totally fine. It's only an issue when you sell your opinion to the highest bidder. Thanks !
You know that youtubers usually have to say this because of some contract/agreement right?
@@kwedl That's called "selling out" and in this context, is not what is in their contract. TH-camrs can express their opinion, but for this guy, he's selling such a horribly constructed printer with flashy features because he got it for free and was sponsored by them
What's the TLDR drama of anycubic and prusaslicer?
Anycubic released their own FDM slicer but it apparently was pretty much just a rebranded Prusa Slicer. They've since apologised and attributed it to Prusa, but at the same time got more flack for blaming their employees.
Noise bang on layer lift
One of the most elementary rules of UX design is that there's no such thing as user error with consumer devices. Errors are the result of bad design or bad implementation/engineering. Always.
This is a very good point
I've seen FDM use 0.3 and then say it is faster..mmm
I’m of the mind if there’s a good option out there for beginners where it’s just plug and play they should go for it. Heck if it was an option when I first got into 3d printing it would have saved me hundreds of dollars in printers that sit around unused.
Not resin.
Go fdm, and get a bambu labs A1
Sponsored by... so asuriously wonderful !
was that just me or did the bust of white have voxel lines all over its body????
Not just you.
@@thenextlayer I checked again so what that all over his shirt , and on some of the jacket ?? if that's not voxel lines th-cam.com/video/YM8Xhl694Og/w-d-xo.html
Interesting, but personally I don't want to turn my workshop into a chemical factory in the post-processing phase. Been there, done that years ago when I was manufacturing PCB's. As far as I'm concerned, the raison d'être for resin printing is to overcome the geometry limitations of 3-axis linear motion 3d printers. It's a worthy goal, but geometry limitations have been overcome in CNC by adding 2 rotary axes to the 3 linear axes (3+2 axis), which you can see in any machine shop video. And the results are spectacular. That is why there is a current pursuit of achieving 5-axis 3D printing to obtain the same spectacular results that CNC subtractive machining has achieved. If you haven't seen the early results of this pursuit, let me point you to a couple of examples: th-cam.com/video/Ej6fWSUrHws/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/users/shortsKor1WuKGEVg The second example is showing how full tool path control can make an unbelievable difference. Here is the heart of this research: fullcontrolgcode.com/ Enjoy!!!
It's interesting, but at the moment not practical for anything that can't be printed in vase mode.
Here is a tip for you that just might help you to avoid an ugly accident. At 4:00 in the video, you are pouring the contents of a container into another and a lot of possibly dangerous splashing is happening. If you were to turn the full container around so that the hole is at the top, the pour would be a lot smoother. After some liquid has been removed, you can just turn the container around and continue as usual. I hope this helps. Wear goggles and be safe. 👍
He's doing it on purpose to express a point
I wholeheartedly agree with you about no longer recommending cheaper and inferior printers. And thank you for the proper use of “less” and “fewer” (“…less intelligence and fewer features” ).
This is nowhere close to a Bambulab or even other FDM printer ... You still need to get things off the build-surface, wash it in IPA, remove uncured supports, cure the part, the supports and anything else that touched the resin and clean up a lot of mess ... Yeah, the details are fantastic, but unless I want a miniature, I dread using my resin printer, whereas my FDM printers sometimes just get a part to print just for fun and background activity ...
who is FOTIS MIND ?? 4:41
I think he meant Fotis Mint, a 3d stl file maker.
I gave up on Resin printers just for one reason. I can't print anything usable except decor that has little to no value. The biggest drawback is once a printed item is exposed to the Sun for long enough... it is done.
wrong resin
499$
Its a shame you're in a position that you feel you need to be apologetic about taking a sponsorship. In my eyes, as long as you stay honest and don't accept any creative control from your sponsor, get the bag! We all gotta make a living my man
Completely agree. I do a lot of SLA printing and the first thing I say to someone asking is that the tech is at a point where all the big names make great machines, though they all occasionally have weaker ones both in terms of releases & individual machines being janky. And then I'd tell them I use red brand every day, noting pcold brand was my first & was also great. If someone told me they got yellow b/c it looked like a good one, I'd agree. And if any company was paying me or anyone else, hells yeah you use that printer line.
Thanks so much, I needed to hear this. Sometimes it seems like people expect me to do this for free, which I'd love to, but my mortgage bank wouldn't like that ;)
The issue is that so many companies employ sponsorships to solicit fraudulent favorable reviews, and have been doing it for so long, that the average person has been conditioned to expect that to be the case any and every time they hear about a new sponsorship going into effect. It's not always the case, and I'm not claiming that it is the case here, but that is part of the basic psychology behind why people get upset about sponsorships and why some people who get them apologize about it. A separate consideration is that companies often insist that those they sponsor not be seen using competitors' products or services for both their own and that client's liability and for more corrupt reasons, and that tends to upset people who wanted that person to provide reviews of competing products. Mixed bags everywhere.
@@thenextlayer if you really want to have things ironed out you could look at teaching techs approach with having a product review policy on your website and that has to be agreed upon by any sponsors.
দ😊😊😊😊
Clean your printer!
Don't trust this guy he's on everyone's payroll
I believe that such video should start with a disclaimer that video was sponsored:(
Those printers could be half the price, but they must give one for free to influencers for every sold one.
I hate contrivershies
Fast resin printers are definitely dope. Though, tweaking and watching fast FDM printers, is just so much more fun.
Across all the reviews I've seen of this printer, the surface of the printed models is horrible, the 8k's are far superior. This is because it has ACF instead of nFEP as a part of the formula it needs to print at the speeds that it does. Sure, you could fit nFEP to it, but why buy something that has as its main feature speed, when you are not going to use that feature. If it only detects print failures sometimes (again, something other reviewers have also mentioned), it can't honestly be claimed as a feature if it fails to detect failures. I also have to wonder about the loingecity of the auto-levelling system...will the spring under the glass, or the compression of the bed pushing on the glass over time cause issues.
I'll wait a bit longer and pick up the M5 when it drops...I'd prefer to use nFEP and get a far superior surface quality for my prints and avoid any potential auto-levelling feature failures by using the very simple manual level method which I only have to perform once ever several months...
Oh interesting I didn’t know the FEP could make such a difference in quality. I’m a newb to the prints look fine to me but I dont have much basis for comparison
@@thenextlayer An interesting experiment for down the line, when you're in a groove with everything, would be getting a backup vat for this one & putting an 8k line's FEP on it. Vat film is a manually replaceable consumable (it's a bit fiddly, there are some printables which greatly assist in getting it drum-tight that ppl usually use FDM to produce). You could turn the speed down somewhat to spare it some shear force & layer height down to try for no lines. I've never used a vat with anything but FEP, but if I thought a different film was causing detail issues, I'd try modifying it and would expect there to be a lot of interest in the sweet spot for tuning. I'd DEFINITELY tape every seam below the vat before trying this tho, & keep the vat fill pretty low (adding as needed) while watching for a possible FEP tear, especially if I tried to go above known FEP-friendly speeds.
@@thenextlayer Also, 10000% agree nobody should get a beginner machine for SLA. Good resin printers are fun. Bare-bones or weaker machines are not like an Ender 3 learning experience. They just make the user miserable.
@@dustybookshelves2948 Sounds like a lot of work and mess... but hopefully I'll get around to it
@@dustybookshelves2948 Yeah... that's kinda how I felt after the first few prints with the last one AnyCubic sent over. I damaged it and haven't bothered to fix it, don't think I will...