VOGman, I just wanted to take a minute to tell you I think you're the best in-depth 3D printer reviewer on TH-cam. Hello from Oregon, USA! Thank you for your thoroughness and time spent making both test prints and the video itself. It is much appreciated. Thank you very much for your efforts. Good job!
Every resin printer I've ever bought was a result of your reviews. You know what to say and when to say it to inform viewers who are paying close attention, despite the overall tone of the review. Well done. Artfully danced. Archly positioned. Keep it coming.
After updating the firmware via the app the plate no longer rises quickly causing splashing. Instead it stays on the bottom and remains submerged until printing starts.
Something I desperately want to see in resin printers is open source firmware. There are QoL features like you mentioned that are literally two lines of code, and I’m sure the community can make these machines 10x better just by changing or adding a few values
Hi! Thanks for the review. As for the problems of detecting "fingerprint residues" on a new film, a clean table and a new resin, they are related to the temperature of the resin that you poured before the first printing. I mainly print with viscous industrial resins, and I often come across the fact that when the resin temperature is below the recommended one, the viscosity of the resin increases. Due to the increased viscosity of the resin, its hydraulic resistance to the table increases when it is lowered. At this moment, the pressure sensor built into the printer detects this excessive resistance, and thinks that it has encountered the remnants of an old print. Try to heat the resin above +24 C first, and then start printing with the control function enabled.
The thing I notice about dipping the plate. This increases the surface area of the resin exposed to hot air circulation by the resin coating the plate. It would help keep the plate from getting too hot since it's closer to hotter air. And as the resin on the plate gets hotter and less viscous it drips down heating the resin in the vat more efficiently than only air convection to the surface of the vat. The printer might come to a stable temp even faster if it dips the plate several times during the heating process.
You know people, before writing a comment, please be a nice person and think about it effects other people? Good idea in my opinion. I just bought and absolutely fucking love this printer. I go into the comments to see what’s going on, and now I’m being dogged on because people are ignorant of what they’re saying and now hating on a printer I just spent hundreds of dollars on Stop making fun of it because it just puts people down
Thanks for the review. I just got one of these and no problems so far. Have found support with Anycubic outstanding and have reply to all my emails so far. I'm base in New Zealand and have found getting supplies of resin hard from the Anycubic website. I have to pick destination of 'other' and too many show as sold out. I also after a replacment vat for this printer and also cannot source, hopefully they will improve on this. Thanks for the other resin you use, I have found a supplier directed in New Zealand to buy 5KG from - nice If your looking for a resin printer, I would recommend this one. Happy printing.
Hello friend, I would love to buy this heater for my printer but cannot find the size anywhere... Is it possible to get the measurements to see if fits mine? Greetings from Portugal.
The heater unit not being standalone is also good because it can be bought and used with other printers. I have the M5s, and i do hope they're gonna sell it separately. Making it better is another thing. Deeping the plate while the heater is doing it's thing, will make the resin and the build plate similar temps. If the plate is in the air while heating, the resin might heat faster than the plate, and when the plate goes in, it will decrease the temp of the resin fast
I wish we had a way to customize firmware. There are things i would change on both my mega 8k and Anycubic photon mono. That heater excites me though. Having a drop in solution that isn't proprietary or locked to a firmware is a good thing.
6:30 this would be less of a problem if the heater pointed its fan directly up like other resin chamber heaters, but with those you have to turn the temperature higher to compensate for most of the hot air that gets stuck at the top.
I'm thinking a fan duct that could clip onto the heater to direct the heat directly to the vat's edge might be a pretty good idea. I'm glad these are looking like they're built pretty well. I have one on the way and so far I like what I'm seeing! Definitely going to be interesting to see the difference between the M5s and my Saturn S.
Firstly, in my climate at least, all resin printers need a heater. As for the DLPs, I love them and they were the best... until the Mars 4 Ultra. That's even better th-cam.com/video/ehG9sHZ29uc/w-d-xo.html
About the resolution and pixel size: if you look at the average size of a pixel (X+Y)/2, the difference between 12K and 14K with these stretched pixels screen is only 0.7 micron. Does it have an impact on prints? Not at all. True square pixels with a true 12K or 14K would be better, but only to avoid even more using AA. So far, the most accurate printer is the Mars 4 / Ultra with true/square 18 micron pixels...
i would think the build plate being in the resin as it heats up would be purposeful. I've had prints fail because I suspect the build plate was cold enough to cool the resin down
In theory, within an enclosure, everything should reach the same temperature. As for the dipping, I don't mind that, I just object to pulling it out so high, causing splashing. 😁👍👍👍
I build 1/24 scale model cars. I design and print some very small parts. Some parts can be a small as 2 or 3mm in a given dimension. I currently use a photon mono 4k which does pretty good, but i was looking at a larger printer like this for printing larger items like full bodies, but also do i can print more small items at once. I was wondering what is the quality of very small prints on this printer?
Great video! Congrats!!! I'm very new in this Resin world 😅, but my first printer was and it's a Saturn 4 Ultra which I'm very disappointed having fail print issues more than I like... I'm trying to convince Elegoo that my printer has a build plate issue, let's see what's happens. Anyway print and paint it's my work so I'm looking for alternatives to my SU4, I watch your video and thinking about this Anycubic m5 pro. I have a doubt about your resin preference (DLP Ccasting), normally which is your exposure time using this resin? And water washable is it any good? Thanks for your help!
good after noon sir what are you settings on the m5s pro as i have same printer and keep getting fails my bed is level but still no look so was woundering if you would shear your setting thanks good video
Looking at getting one of these. Not sure what the go is with the ACF sheet. Can I use other resins on it or do I need to replace it for a standard FEP??
Thanks for the review. Ironically, I feel like some software features are making these new printers worse. The issue you showcased where the plate lifted and resin kept splashing outside the tray is an easy way to accidentally destroy the display. Regardless of how good the print quality is, I feel like huge oversights like that can be a deal breaker for a lot of professionals and even hobbyists.
Great review Geoff! Very informative, and delivered with a wonderful sense of humour! Makes me laugh every time. I can see why you like the printer. But I actually facepalmed myself when the heater turns out to be a last minute "chuck one in the box - that'll shut him up!" solution. Elegoo. You could have put yourselves a mile ahead in the race with a heater that integrates properly with the printer. Not to mention firmware that actually does what you claim it will do... I don't think Elegoo has raised the bar much with this effort. Except, that it looks like it is a very good resin printer and produces very good prints. Anyhoo... well done Geoff. Hopefully Elegoo will listen very closely to your recommendations. Or maybe Phrozen will... or Anycubic.... Frankly, I think all of these companies should be paying you big $$$ as a consultant to their R&D departments! 😁
@@vogman NO TRICK, I got the DLP D2way back when and have not had to change the Screen/projector. Wondering how often you have to with any of the non DLP's.. How frequently ? I am already past the 2000 hours on the D2...great machine. Just looking for General...3-6 months using 12 hrs a day etc.... I like some of these machines you review but hesitant .
@@tomyocom5886 Depends on how much you actually print, how many objects you typically print at once, how big and how tall the objects are, etc. [The more the LCD is exposed to the UV light, the sooner it fails]. With moderate to heavy printing, an LCD should last 1-2 years.
@@retromodernart4426 Thanks for pulling those teeth for me. I do very much appreciate it. And I wanted to ask YOU because you use them so much AND want the Detail. Many others print to print or review but kind of slack on the detail for quantity or just the review. I see every flaw in everything I do while trying to get better, it takes a while to look back and say, actually that was pretty good! Thanks for the LCD info... Still hesitant
I have two printers inside a enclosure (grow tent), does anyone know if I leave the heater out of the printers but inside the enclosure would be ok? I'm thinking a way of heat both machines.
Thank you very much for the review. This is my first time buying a resin printer, but I'm torn between Phrozen Mighty 8k and Anycubic M5s Pro. I made inferences from Phrozen material quality and the work of users I saw on the internet. Phrozen seems to be the first in terms of quality. But as I said, I have no experience with 3D printers. I'm stuck between these two printers. I wonder which of the two brands has better support, both spare parts and technical support. Spare parts and malfunctions will not upset me. Thanks
Please could you reccomend which printer is best for jewellery samples only. Detail wise which one would you recommend. I don't have a big budget but could do with a decent one and I'll buy which ever you recommend me! Thanks 😊
Well mine arrived today and was just doing the RERF file to get the exposure time but i can confirm that the build plate didnt fly up after anything so it seems like they fixed that one. Just wondering outside of the exposure time what settings did you use in Chitubox/Photon Workshop?
I bought my M5s not so long ago so am suffering a bit of FOMO. I have heard, however, that the heater will be available for purchase separately and there might be a 14K Screen Upgrade. I wonder if this is true?
Hook and loop tape? For the heater? I found my pre monochrome screen printer produced better prints than monochrome screens, when will they make prints with less noticeable layer lines?
Layer lines typically occur when with temperature issues and poorly dialled in resin settings. With those sorted, it's then a case of adjusting AA to a point where the details are good but the layer lines are smoothed. I find dropping to 0.03 makes a massive difference. You can go lower, but the extra time involved tends to create issues with resin separating over time, etc. In my pics here, you'll see layer lines, but it's VERY hard to see them with the naked eye 😊
The only thing that put me off the M5s was the self levelling and the issues you had with printing parts with a small footprint. I’m also not convinced by the frosty print film. In fact these are the only two reasons I didn’t get an M5s There is now another two things to put me off the M5s pro one being the mess it makes if you delay printing and the constant errors Have Anycubic commented on these issues at all since your review?
Absolutely. Generally once you're levelled, you never need to do it again, until you change the FEP etc. I suspect this feature is about moving the technology forward... one day soon it will be click and walk away 😁
Given the ACF film, does this printer requires High-Speed resin to work? I got the printer but bought Standard V2 resin, and after 4 tries nothing sticks to the plate... I am starting to think it is the resin. Any ideas?
I've had similar problems many times. Don't worry about the ACF liner or the resin, sticking on a new plate is often a pain. I've washed them, rubbed them with wire wool, soaked them in alcohol and all sorts. But for some reason, some new plates are just a pain. After a few uses, magically they get better... or so it seems. Settings is likely your answer. Two things will make a big difference for you. Firstly alter the initial burn-in layer time. Depending on your resin, you may find this to be 20 to 30 seconds per layer. Well double it. Increasing the number of burn in layers to 8 can't hurt either. Next, slooooooooow things down. Look at your Lift Speed, both in the Burn In and Normal Layers. People want to rush these to get faster prints. I prefer successful prints. So again, if you have, for example, a lift speed of 120 ps, then half it to 60. Providing your plate is clean and level, these two steps should get you there 😁
Hello friends, I would like to buy this heater for my printer but cannot find the size anywhere... Is it possible to get the measurements from anyone who have it to see if fits mine? Greetings from Portugal.
Thank you friends, this is a good informative video and that stand alone heating unit seems promising. Lately I have been using just a small hairdryer to heat up my resins. I find that heating up the resin does work much better. Does anyone else have any alternative ideas for heating? do you microwave them? or use any other sort of method?
Dipping the plate would make sense if it was left in the resin, as it would hear up the plate and resin to the same temperature. The air blowing across a suspended plate is warmer than the overall camber temp and will raise the plate above the resin, which will change the resin temp when it's dipped into the vat.
Can I use this printer for my jewellery models. Is that something it's compatible with, importing STL files? Do you experience any shrinkage? Great video 😊
Absolutely. Shrinkage can happen, depending on the resin, etc, but it tends to be very small. If regularly experienced, you can increase the scale within the slicer so, once shrunk, it's the right size.
It tends to be personal choice... Firstly, watch this video on supports. People seem to enjoy it th-cam.com/video/MU0Cq_bjhy4/w-d-xo.html Secondly, I like Lychee. Try this video th-cam.com/video/hMJhEX1c4NY/w-d-xo.html
This is the video I needed! Still deciding between this and the Saturn 3 ultra. A heater is a must in my cold home, and right now Anycubic is offering this with two bottles of resin. Which would add an extra hundred onto Elegoo's price if I got it separately.
Thank god for included heater ! Although its not perfect its a good idea and i am sure they will sort it out eventually. Are you watching Elegoo? Time to wake up
The plate dipping and splashing resin all over the place is INSANE lol. I personally don't use delayed timers, but man Anycubic engineers seem to be on the slow side.
Raising the plate too high, too fast is nothing new. In fact I thought most manufacturers had stopped doing it because of these dripping issues. I guess the guy on this project hadn't got the memo 😁
Ideally the plate should stay in the resin to ensure it gets heated to the same temperature (given the heater blasts air at the resin vat). Otherwise you risk dumping a large cooler metal heat sink straight in to your nicely warmed resin, potentially dropping its temp below optimal levels. You really don't want it just above the vat as it'll block the path for hot air, getting hot itself whilst not being able to transfer that heat to the resin.
and if you don't look at the dimensions, none of them represent the best quality. The jewelry is rather small, so in this case you sacrifice quality to have a larger and more expensive printer, is it worth it?
For me the best for jewellery right now is the Mars 4 Ultra, but that is a smaller plate. If I were buying either the M5S or M5S Pro, I'd go with the Pro. This not only has a heater (essential!), but also superior plate levelling 😁
So I have a problem with something. Mid-range to me means something that is priced in the middle offering features between the low end and high end. I consider this class of printer to be the mid-size or medium format because that is what these 10-inch printers are. I was interested in this printer but unless they fix the firmware I am just going to wait until they sell the heater by itself or continue to use my DIY heater. What makes me especially annoyed is that this could have been solved by actually testing the printer or making the fan bottom or top fire. My first printer was an Anycubic but I feel like lately they have been dropping the ball. Like I love the RERF. I think the fact they are adding a heater at this price point is nice. But there are so many little things that make me wonder why. There is a wifi but you can't send a print from your computer only from your phone. The resin is messy because the heater blows it around. They have uniformity issues. Their small format printers still top out at 34-micron xy resolution. Then while I like the idea of auto bed leveling and smart force feedback detection if it doesn't work what's the point. It would be good if you could change the RERF time difference so you can dial it in better. It's sad because the RERF made me go with Anycubic and since no one else has implemented it I would prefer to use Anycubic. As a complete beginner, it gave me the confidence to just print. But If someone asked me today if I would buy another Anycubic printer my answer would probably be no.
I just ordered this printer as my very first resin printer... I hope that I choose well ... By the way, do you know if there is a discord community or something like that for beginners?
I love this printer. I have not had a single failed print yet, and the prints are coming out wonderfully. If you get some Phrozen Aqua 8K Grey and use the settings I've shown you in this video, that should get you started well. As for Discord, sorry, I've no idea.
I see they stole your heater idea. Just ordered the new photon mono x 6Ks. Great video and a lovely printer. I think they need to get rid of acf altogether.
For anyone interested. The reason the resin is dripping on the inside of the lid, is due to static electricity. The plastic wrapping from the factory charges the plastic lid when it's peeled away. You can actually see the resin drips curving towards it. To eliminate this, wipe the lid down, inside and out, with a dryer sheet.
I wish that was true, but it's not. Look carefully at the lid and you'll see this is NOT the first time it's been used. Static from the wrapping is a thing, I agree, but that was days before this footage was taken... and several wipe downs too. The curving of the resin is probably due to its thick, gloopy nature (it's cold). It's a little snotty, trying to stay whole. The heater is also creating air current of course. Had the plate been lower, none of this would be an issue. Let's hope that firmware fix comes soon. 😁
@@vogman I didn't even think about the heater creating turbulence inside the chamber lol. That could definitely cause the curling drip strings. It's strange that they would use a fan that strong in such a small area but 🤷♂.
How did they not catch that plate plunge in testing? Mistakes like that make me wish I didn’t already own an anycubic printer. I helped fund this crap.
If my printer isn't an exception to the norm, then yes, they needed just a couple more days. It's genuinely a fabulous printer that has not yet let me down, but these firmware issues are just crazy. Easy fixes that should not have left the factory.
Yes, on all these printers is seems the software guys have never used their own software to make a print with the many bugs and weird behavior that we experience as users.
It seemed they were "down" for a while - it would take you to something like paid.tips.transfer and never go from there. Happened on a few different clicks for me. Glad it's working again. @@vogman
The printer is excellent and with a Velcro (hook & eye) base, it could be moved between different printers. I would like to have seen it plug into the UI, giving more control, but I'm guessing Anycubic will be selling this individually, making that problematic.
I typically do this where there's nothing interesting going on. It breaks up a dull stretch of footage. Trust me, I never cover up important facts / info with vanity.
If you have experiences, good or bad, with ANY printer company, I hope you've shared them on my real user database www.vegoilguy.co.uk/3drpinput.php 😁😁😁
VOGman, I just wanted to take a minute to tell you I think you're the best in-depth 3D printer reviewer on TH-cam. Hello from Oregon, USA! Thank you for your thoroughness and time spent making both test prints and the video itself. It is much appreciated. Thank you very much for your efforts. Good job!
Wow, thanks! That makes my day 😁😁😁
Every resin printer I've ever bought was a result of your reviews. You know what to say and when to say it to inform viewers who are paying close attention, despite the overall tone of the review. Well done. Artfully danced. Archly positioned. Keep it coming.
Great to hear! 😁😁😁
Easy way to mount heater - velcro. Esp the "hard plastic" velcro, will lock something down with very little movement.
Absolutely necessary. Good thinking.
After updating the firmware via the app the plate no longer rises quickly causing splashing. Instead it stays on the bottom and remains submerged until printing starts.
Something I desperately want to see in resin printers is open source firmware. There are QoL features like you mentioned that are literally two lines of code, and I’m sure the community can make these machines 10x better just by changing or adding a few values
would u either get a saturn3 ultra or a anycubic m5s pro?
Hi! Thanks for the review. As for the problems of detecting "fingerprint residues" on a new film, a clean table and a new resin, they are related to the temperature of the resin that you poured before the first printing. I mainly print with viscous industrial resins, and I often come across the fact that when the resin temperature is below the recommended one, the viscosity of the resin increases. Due to the increased viscosity of the resin, its hydraulic resistance to the table increases when it is lowered. At this moment, the pressure sensor built into the printer detects this excessive resistance, and thinks that it has encountered the remnants of an old print. Try to heat the resin above +24 C first, and then start printing with the control function enabled.
Phrozen is will soon reveal Mighty REVO - it will be also 14k, but probably the same screen with rectangular pixels
I’m still considering the GK2 or wait for the next generation Saturn
The thing I notice about dipping the plate. This increases the surface area of the resin exposed to hot air circulation by the resin coating the plate. It would help keep the plate from getting too hot since it's closer to hotter air. And as the resin on the plate gets hotter and less viscous it drips down heating the resin in the vat more efficiently than only air convection to the surface of the vat. The printer might come to a stable temp even faster if it dips the plate several times during the heating process.
It's an interesting thought. My issue isn't the dipping... it's more the fast lift afterwards.
I believe it would only heat up to around the temp of your preferred setting
You know people, before writing a comment, please be a nice person and think about it effects other people? Good idea in my opinion.
I just bought and absolutely fucking love this printer. I go into the comments to see what’s going on, and now I’m being dogged on because people are ignorant of what they’re saying and now hating on a printer I just spent hundreds of dollars on
Stop making fun of it because it just puts people down
Ive had 2 other resin. So far this has worked every time with no failed prints
Great to hear 😁
sry for newbie question , which one is better Saturn 3 ultra or M5S pro
Thanks for the review. I just got one of these and no problems so far. Have found support with Anycubic outstanding and have reply to all my emails so far. I'm base in New Zealand and have found getting supplies of resin hard from the Anycubic website. I have to pick destination of 'other' and too many show as sold out. I also after a replacment vat for this printer and also cannot source, hopefully they will improve on this.
Thanks for the other resin you use, I have found a supplier directed in New Zealand to buy 5KG from - nice
If your looking for a resin printer, I would recommend this one. Happy printing.
Thanks for sharing 😁
Hello friend, I would love to buy this heater for my printer but cannot find the size anywhere...
Is it possible to get the measurements to see if fits mine?
Greetings from Portugal.
At 10:22 I see horizontal lines - which indicate noise on Z axis?
The heater unit not being standalone is also good because it can be bought and used with other printers. I have the M5s, and i do hope they're gonna sell it separately. Making it better is another thing.
Deeping the plate while the heater is doing it's thing, will make the resin and the build plate similar temps. If the plate is in the air while heating, the resin might heat faster than the plate, and when the plate goes in, it will decrease the temp of the resin fast
I wish we had a way to customize firmware. There are things i would change on both my mega 8k and Anycubic photon mono.
That heater excites me though. Having a drop in solution that isn't proprietary or locked to a firmware is a good thing.
6:30 this would be less of a problem if the heater pointed its fan directly up like other resin chamber heaters, but with those you have to turn the temperature higher to compensate for most of the hot air that gets stuck at the top.
Just pre ordered this printer the other day for my first Resin printer, been using FDM printer for years, Ender 3 Pro
Honestly, it is a good printer. There's a few silly niggles and are simple fixes, but that will come I'm sure.
Happy printing 😁😁😁
I'm thinking a fan duct that could clip onto the heater to direct the heat directly to the vat's edge might be a pretty good idea. I'm glad these are looking like they're built pretty well. I have one on the way and so far I like what I'm seeing! Definitely going to be interesting to see the difference between the M5s and my Saturn S.
I remember the d2 having issues with the vat eroding, now my m3 max’s paint is starting to chip away around the fep retaining ring
Sorry to hear that buddy.
@@vogman no big deal. I just clean it up and continue printing. Might actually remove the paint one of these days if it becomes an issue.
anychance you have a mono M7 pro ? trying to choose between that and the Saturn 4 ultra
I'm torn between this one and Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra as my first printer, mainly for minis. Which one would you recommend?
What did you ended up with cause I'm clueless too 😢
If one of the budget dlp printers got some of the newer features such as heating would they then be the best purchase?
Firstly, in my climate at least, all resin printers need a heater.
As for the DLPs, I love them and they were the best... until the Mars 4 Ultra. That's even better th-cam.com/video/ehG9sHZ29uc/w-d-xo.html
About the resolution and pixel size: if you look at the average size of a pixel (X+Y)/2, the difference between 12K and 14K with these stretched pixels screen is only 0.7 micron. Does it have an impact on prints? Not at all. True square pixels with a true 12K or 14K would be better, but only to avoid even more using AA. So far, the most accurate printer is the Mars 4 / Ultra with true/square 18 micron pixels...
You don't need to convince me the Mars 4 Ultra is the best yet. It's amazing quality 😁😁😁
i would think the build plate being in the resin as it heats up would be purposeful. I've had prints fail because I suspect the build plate was cold enough to cool the resin down
In theory, within an enclosure, everything should reach the same temperature.
As for the dipping, I don't mind that, I just object to pulling it out so high, causing splashing.
😁👍👍👍
I build 1/24 scale model cars. I design and print some very small parts. Some parts can be a small as 2 or 3mm in a given dimension. I currently use a photon mono 4k which does pretty good, but i was looking at a larger printer like this for printing larger items like full bodies, but also do i can print more small items at once.
I was wondering what is the quality of very small prints on this printer?
Great video! Congrats!!! I'm very new in this Resin world 😅, but my first printer was and it's a Saturn 4 Ultra which I'm very disappointed having fail print issues more than I like... I'm trying to convince Elegoo that my printer has a build plate issue, let's see what's happens. Anyway print and paint it's my work so I'm looking for alternatives to my SU4, I watch your video and thinking about this Anycubic m5 pro. I have a doubt about your resin preference (DLP Ccasting), normally which is your exposure time using this resin? And water washable is it any good? Thanks for your help!
good after noon sir what are you settings on the m5s pro as i have same printer and keep getting fails my bed is level but still no look so was woundering if you would shear your setting thanks good video
I cannot get a USB drive to work in this thing the stock one works but anything else ive used dont do anything.
Looking at getting one of these. Not sure what the go is with the ACF sheet. Can I use other resins on it or do I need to replace it for a standard FEP??
Thanks for the review. Ironically, I feel like some software features are making these new printers worse. The issue you showcased where the plate lifted and resin kept splashing outside the tray is an easy way to accidentally destroy the display. Regardless of how good the print quality is, I feel like huge oversights like that can be a deal breaker for a lot of professionals and even hobbyists.
That's a fair point.
Any firmware updates up todate ? Im looking for a printer
Great review Geoff! Very informative, and delivered with a wonderful sense of humour! Makes me laugh every time. I can see why you like the printer. But I actually facepalmed myself when the heater turns out to be a last minute "chuck one in the box - that'll shut him up!" solution.
Elegoo. You could have put yourselves a mile ahead in the race with a heater that integrates properly with the printer. Not to mention firmware that actually does what you claim it will do... I don't think Elegoo has raised the bar much with this effort. Except, that it looks like it is a very good resin printer and produces very good prints.
Anyhoo... well done Geoff. Hopefully Elegoo will listen very closely to your recommendations. Or maybe Phrozen will... or Anycubic....
Frankly, I think all of these companies should be paying you big $$$ as a consultant to their R&D departments! 😁
How often do you change screens on these 2000 hour screen printers?
I sense a trick question there... but like all things, it varies. 😁
@@vogman NO TRICK, I got the DLP D2way back when and have not had to change the Screen/projector. Wondering how often you have to with any of the non DLP's.. How frequently ? I am already past the 2000 hours on the D2...great machine. Just looking for General...3-6 months using 12 hrs a day etc.... I like some of these machines you review but hesitant .
@@tomyocom5886 Depends on how much you actually print, how many objects you typically print at once, how big and how tall the objects are, etc. [The more the LCD is exposed to the UV light, the sooner it fails].
With moderate to heavy printing, an LCD should last 1-2 years.
@@retromodernart4426 Thanks for pulling those teeth for me. I do very much appreciate it. And I wanted to ask YOU because you use them so much AND want the Detail. Many others print to print or review but kind of slack on the detail for quantity or just the review. I see every flaw in everything I do while trying to get better, it takes a while to look back and say, actually that was pretty good! Thanks for the LCD info... Still hesitant
I have two printers inside a enclosure (grow tent), does anyone know if I leave the heater out of the printers but inside the enclosure would be ok? I'm thinking a way of heat both machines.
Did they ever fix the lifting during waiting issue?
Yes th-cam.com/video/E8_McyUkuko/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much for the review. This is my first time buying a resin printer, but I'm torn between Phrozen Mighty 8k and Anycubic M5s Pro. I made inferences from Phrozen material quality and the work of users I saw on the internet. Phrozen seems to be the first in terms of quality. But as I said, I have no experience with 3D printers. I'm stuck between these two printers. I wonder which of the two brands has better support, both spare parts and technical support. Spare parts and malfunctions will not upset me. Thanks
Please could you reccomend which printer is best for jewellery samples only. Detail wise which one would you recommend. I don't have a big budget but could do with a decent one and I'll buy which ever you recommend me! Thanks 😊
Hmmm I am still going to shoot for the GK TWO there are a couple of features I require. Thanks for sharing.
Well mine arrived today and was just doing the RERF file to get the exposure time but i can confirm that the build plate didnt fly up after anything so it seems like they fixed that one. Just wondering outside of the exposure time what settings did you use in Chitubox/Photon Workshop?
I bought my M5s not so long ago so am suffering a bit of FOMO. I have heard, however, that the heater will be available for purchase separately and there might be a 14K Screen Upgrade. I wonder if this is true?
Did they get rid of the building AA
the delay is great if you do alot of clears, 30mins to flush bubbles
Hook and loop tape? For the heater? I found my pre monochrome screen printer produced better prints than monochrome screens, when will they make prints with less noticeable layer lines?
Layer lines typically occur when with temperature issues and poorly dialled in resin settings. With those sorted, it's then a case of adjusting AA to a point where the details are good but the layer lines are smoothed. I find dropping to 0.03 makes a massive difference. You can go lower, but the extra time involved tends to create issues with resin separating over time, etc.
In my pics here, you'll see layer lines, but it's VERY hard to see them with the naked eye 😊
What would you recommend more this one or the d2
Regarding heating.... I hope some day they will figure out that fastest way to heat is by gluing heater to the vat, similar to 3d printers...
Is it gonna be a mess every time the plate goes up?😮
what is your settings?
i just got my printer a few days ago, and i have almost entirely fail prints :/
i run Lycheeslicer
Your British accent alone was enough to convince me ! thank you!!
Would love to hear if you managed to fix the splash issue and other firmware problems? any update yet
It is sorted and I'll be releasing a short update video in the next couple of days 😁
The only thing that put me off the M5s was the self levelling and the issues you had with printing parts with a small footprint. I’m also not convinced by the frosty print film. In fact these are the only two reasons I didn’t get an M5s
There is now another two things to put me off the M5s pro one being the mess it makes if you delay printing and the constant errors
Have Anycubic commented on these issues at all since your review?
Which would be better, saturn 3 ultra or m5s pro?
Try this vegoilguy.co.uk/3d-resin-best-midrange-printer.php
I literally only ever needed to level my photon mono once. Never had issues with leveling.
Absolutely. Generally once you're levelled, you never need to do it again, until you change the FEP etc.
I suspect this feature is about moving the technology forward... one day soon it will be click and walk away 😁
Given the ACF film, does this printer requires High-Speed resin to work? I got the printer but bought Standard V2 resin, and after 4 tries nothing sticks to the plate... I am starting to think it is the resin. Any ideas?
I've had similar problems many times. Don't worry about the ACF liner or the resin, sticking on a new plate is often a pain. I've washed them, rubbed them with wire wool, soaked them in alcohol and all sorts. But for some reason, some new plates are just a pain. After a few uses, magically they get better... or so it seems.
Settings is likely your answer. Two things will make a big difference for you. Firstly alter the initial burn-in layer time. Depending on your resin, you may find this to be 20 to 30 seconds per layer. Well double it. Increasing the number of burn in layers to 8 can't hurt either.
Next, slooooooooow things down. Look at your Lift Speed, both in the Burn In and Normal Layers. People want to rush these to get faster prints. I prefer successful prints. So again, if you have, for example, a lift speed of 120 ps, then half it to 60.
Providing your plate is clean and level, these two steps should get you there 😁
a independent and manual heater/filter gives me so much diy options which is kinda a plus for makers
I completely agree. But invest in good hook & eye (Velcro) as the heater needs to be anchored.
Hello friends, I would like to buy this heater for my printer but cannot find the size anywhere...
Is it possible to get the measurements from anyone who have it to see if fits mine?
Greetings from Portugal.
I never cared for speed. What is the hurry anyway? The slower the print, the better results. Great review mate.
Exactly!
I also had problems with adhesion on my M5s, but I found a solution - before each print, I heat the resin in the vat with a dryer 😅
Excellent work. It's amazing how much better these machines function in a warmer environment 👍👍👍
Thank you friends, this is a good informative video and that stand alone heating unit seems promising.
Lately I have been using just a small hairdryer to heat up my resins. I find that heating up the resin does work much better.
Does anyone else have any alternative ideas for heating? do you microwave them? or use any other sort of method?
I hope they fix those issues with a next firmware update
Dipping the plate would make sense if it was left in the resin, as it would hear up the plate and resin to the same temperature. The air blowing across a suspended plate is warmer than the overall camber temp and will raise the plate above the resin, which will change the resin temp when it's dipped into the vat.
Can I use this printer for my jewellery models. Is that something it's compatible with, importing STL files? Do you experience any shrinkage? Great video 😊
Absolutely. Shrinkage can happen, depending on the resin, etc, but it tends to be very small. If regularly experienced, you can increase the scale within the slicer so, once shrunk, it's the right size.
Great look forward to going through your videos
Hi, what do you recommend for printing jewelry.. anycubic photon D2 or mono M5s pro or another brand?
I think I've already replied to you via Instagram, but just in case, try this vegoilguy.co.uk/3d-resin-printing-jewellery.php
Just getting into 3d printing, what slicer software do you use or recommend ? ( PS I just placed an order for the Phrozen Mini 8k S)
It tends to be personal choice...
Firstly, watch this video on supports. People seem to enjoy it th-cam.com/video/MU0Cq_bjhy4/w-d-xo.html
Secondly, I like Lychee. Try this video th-cam.com/video/hMJhEX1c4NY/w-d-xo.html
This is the video I needed! Still deciding between this and the Saturn 3 ultra. A heater is a must in my cold home, and right now Anycubic is offering this with two bottles of resin. Which would add an extra hundred onto Elegoo's price if I got it separately.
Glad it was useful 😁
Thank god for included heater ! Although its not perfect its a good idea and i am sure they will sort it out eventually. Are you watching Elegoo? Time to wake up
Well said!!!
i would like buy my first resin printer? any suggestion?
Well, this is an excellent printer. But check this out vegoilguy.co.uk/3d-resin-printing-which-printer.php
Newbie here: is this a good printer to get for jewelry making? I don’t want to buy this one and they find that there’s another printer that I need.
Very good for jewellery. The Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra is better of quality, but it's much smaller.
@@vogman Ah I’ll get the Elegoo Mars 4 ultra then, thank you so much!
The plate dipping and splashing resin all over the place is INSANE lol. I personally don't use delayed timers, but man Anycubic engineers seem to be on the slow side.
Raising the plate too high, too fast is nothing new. In fact I thought most manufacturers had stopped doing it because of these dripping issues. I guess the guy on this project hadn't got the memo 😁
Ideally the plate should stay in the resin to ensure it gets heated to the same temperature (given the heater blasts air at the resin vat). Otherwise you risk dumping a large cooler metal heat sink straight in to your nicely warmed resin, potentially dropping its temp below optimal levels. You really don't want it just above the vat as it'll block the path for hot air, getting hot itself whilst not being able to transfer that heat to the resin.
Hi good day vogman. Been watching Ur video's on review awhile now. Wanted to know if the anycubic M5S or M5 pro is better for jewellery. All tha best.
and if you don't look at the dimensions, none of them represent the best quality. The jewelry is rather small, so in this case you sacrifice quality to have a larger and more expensive printer, is it worth it?
For me the best for jewellery right now is the Mars 4 Ultra, but that is a smaller plate.
If I were buying either the M5S or M5S Pro, I'd go with the Pro. This not only has a heater (essential!), but also superior plate levelling 😁
Thank you 😊👍🤝
Hi good day can the M5 pro use wax casting resin. Thank you. Really Appreciated
Yes. No problem 😁
So I have a problem with something. Mid-range to me means something that is priced in the middle offering features between the low end and high end. I consider this class of printer to be the mid-size or medium format because that is what these 10-inch printers are. I was interested in this printer but unless they fix the firmware I am just going to wait until they sell the heater by itself or continue to use my DIY heater. What makes me especially annoyed is that this could have been solved by actually testing the printer or making the fan bottom or top fire. My first printer was an Anycubic but I feel like lately they have been dropping the ball. Like I love the RERF. I think the fact they are adding a heater at this price point is nice. But there are so many little things that make me wonder why. There is a wifi but you can't send a print from your computer only from your phone. The resin is messy because the heater blows it around. They have uniformity issues. Their small format printers still top out at 34-micron xy resolution. Then while I like the idea of auto bed leveling and smart force feedback detection if it doesn't work what's the point. It would be good if you could change the RERF time difference so you can dial it in better. It's sad because the RERF made me go with Anycubic and since no one else has implemented it I would prefer to use Anycubic. As a complete beginner, it gave me the confidence to just print. But If someone asked me today if I would buy another Anycubic printer my answer would probably be no.
Didn't someone do a Video Proving that those "Air purifier don't work?
I just ordered this printer as my very first resin printer... I hope that I choose well ...
By the way, do you know if there is a discord community or something like that for beginners?
I love this printer. I have not had a single failed print yet, and the prints are coming out wonderfully. If you get some Phrozen Aqua 8K Grey and use the settings I've shown you in this video, that should get you started well.
As for Discord, sorry, I've no idea.
I see they stole your heater idea. Just ordered the new photon mono x 6Ks. Great video and a lovely printer. I think they need to get rid of acf altogether.
Great to hear from you Tony 😁
For 50$ is a photon s worth it?
For anyone interested. The reason the resin is dripping on the inside of the lid, is due to static electricity. The plastic wrapping from the factory charges the plastic lid when it's peeled away. You can actually see the resin drips curving towards it. To eliminate this, wipe the lid down, inside and out, with a dryer sheet.
I wish that was true, but it's not. Look carefully at the lid and you'll see this is NOT the first time it's been used. Static from the wrapping is a thing, I agree, but that was days before this footage was taken... and several wipe downs too.
The curving of the resin is probably due to its thick, gloopy nature (it's cold). It's a little snotty, trying to stay whole. The heater is also creating air current of course.
Had the plate been lower, none of this would be an issue. Let's hope that firmware fix comes soon. 😁
@@vogman I didn't even think about the heater creating turbulence inside the chamber lol. That could definitely cause the curling drip strings. It's strange that they would use a fan that strong in such a small area but 🤷♂.
just pour in the resin after the buildplate is lifted.
But then the resin detection alert would prevent printing 😁
Deliciously honest and raw.
Many thanks 😁😁😁
One day I'll get my own to make small scale injection molding dies
How did they not catch that plate plunge in testing? Mistakes like that make me wish I didn’t already own an anycubic printer. I helped fund this crap.
Moving to quickly I guess. Silly mistakes.
It’s crazy they keep pumping out half finished products, they are not kickstarter anymore.
If my printer isn't an exception to the norm, then yes, they needed just a couple more days. It's genuinely a fabulous printer that has not yet let me down, but these firmware issues are just crazy. Easy fixes that should not have left the factory.
Yes, on all these printers is seems the software guys have never used their own software to make a print with the many bugs and weird behavior that we experience as users.
It is worrying. It's such a simple thing to try your own product.
I've got printer envy.
I'm over here with my photon mono x, feeling inadequate with my 4k screen
Edit: finished video, envy resolved.
🤣😂🤣
time will tell, you'll have to keep testing :)
Exactly.
tell me how ya really feel vougemun :P
You're right. I can be too subtle 😁
Yes that is review
This is no Sharper than the Mighty 8K or any of the sharper 8K Printers like Mini 8K
I'm pretty sure I received scrapers with mine. I've noticed no one provided clippers any more though 😁
I won't get the printer until the end of February. We'll see how he does.
"same big knob" hey, dont be knocking the knob, some of us prefer them big!
Paid links aren't working, FYI
Links to products? They seem to be working for me...
It seemed they were "down" for a while - it would take you to something like paid.tips.transfer and never go from there. Happened on a few different clicks for me. Glad it's working again. @@vogman
That heater is a disappointment, to put it mildly.
The printer is excellent and with a Velcro (hook & eye) base, it could be moved between different printers. I would like to have seen it plug into the UI, giving more control, but I'm guessing Anycubic will be selling this individually, making that problematic.
bro you sound like the stanley parable narrator
I never buy anything unless it has ‘PRO’ in the title description. 😂
Cool
In conclusion only buy the heater separately and that´s it All the other things are unnecessary.
Stop putting all your socials and everything all over the screen. List them in the endcard like everyone else. It's just annoying and distracting.
I typically do this where there's nothing interesting going on. It breaks up a dull stretch of footage. Trust me, I never cover up important facts / info with vanity.
it could be the best printer in the world, but I refuse to buy from Anycubic because of their dog sh*t customer service
If you have experiences, good or bad, with ANY printer company, I hope you've shared them on my real user database www.vegoilguy.co.uk/3drpinput.php 😁😁😁
Jeeps you sound like you smoke 60 a day
59 🤣😂🤣