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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2023
- The Barber Hauler… the cheeky sail trim block you might wanna check out for cruising!
Wondering how to trim your sails closer to the wind? Save a few tacs? We show you how to use a Barber Hauler with your jib sheets to squeeze that extra miles in and sail that bit closer to the wind. This can be done with the simplest of gear; a friction ring. So this is for everyone.
See Friction Rings 101 video here:
• Better than a BLOCK! -...
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00:23 Overview
00:49 Barber Block Explained
02:36 Demonstration
04:35 Summary
06:00 Next for Sail Hub - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Interesting. I'll have to try this with my jib. Instead of whatever that neat widget is, I'd just use a climbing carabiner. Be faster. The only advantage of the widget is if the load is really large and you use the block for 2:1 mechanical advantage. You could do this with a carabiner of course, but it might be a bit more difficult if the load was high enough.
We used a lot of carabiners crossing the Pacific on a 42' catamaran. (When I brought them onboard everyone else said, "What are those for?" Had to leave half of them with the boat. Owner bought more.) The barber hauler we used was on the main sail boom against accidental gybes. Tied an Alpine Butterfly in the middle of a long line, attached a carabiner. This way it could be tight on the working side, and slack on the other - but ready to go to work.
There are two basic carabiner types I use for sailing. Less expensive ones 12kN wire gates, and more heavy duty twist lock ones 25kN. We used the heavy duty ones on the boom... and on the jib clew, tying down the dinghy. We had a ParaSailor sheet accidentally run under a life line. I just reached up to the clew clipped on a line, cleated it and then re ran the sheet, pulled it in tight, unclipped the carabiner.
For sure a good old crab s perfect for the job, the o lay down side being they will usually be 6000 series aluminium and corrode.
The other option is to have a friction ring on the sheet and leave it in permanently as per racking yachts.
If you want to adjust it when close hauled you would probably need the 2:1 purchase on it but you could just pinch up a bit to adjust it. Still, what a cool and cost effective solution with multiple uses on board though!
Let us know how you get on!
I always learn some new tricks when I watch your videos. Best Sailing Channel everrrrrrrrr
Cheers Rafa! Stoked to hear this!
Great intro to the concept. Don't forget hauling outboard for reaching, and for choking kite shoulders down in heavy air gybes.
For sure.. maybe we should do reaching blocks together sometime! I reckon that could be fun day out!
@@SailHub think you need to come for a sail on the sunny south coast 👍
Great info .. I used to compete with one metre r/c sailing boats and pinching was slower but allowed for maybe one less tack .great fun and amazing competition .
Cheers Richard!
Thanks for the clue about the clew.
Glad to help out 👍
Clew about the clue 😂
My bad (Jenni) spellings never been on point haha 😂
Look how barber haulers are installed in race boats. They are used to pull the clew outboard for reaching. I use one on my catamaran all the time. I do think the Antal snatch block is a great design. Far less likely to damage stuff
Sure, the Antal stuff is awesome. Race boats are using the barber as a reaching block in what you describe, they are also used for trimming as in haulers, down haulers and twinning lines. Such a useful piece of kit. As a boat builder I’ve used them for pretty much everything over the years! 👍
Just discovered your channel and all your great tips. I raced big boats for years but I never thought about a barber hauler for a cruising boat. I now have a 44 foot cutter now and am wondering how you think this would work on the staysail and/or yankee?
Hi Tim! Thanks for the compliments!
Regarding your foresails, the barber will work well, careful positioning should give you a good sheeting angle as a down haul too, some times )like on our last boat) when we hauled in the leech would open at the top so we had an extra line to haul down and prevent it.
Let us know how you get on! 👍
Great info guys….will definitely look in to a bit of barber hauling 👍🏻😃
Wahey! Cheers guys✌️
Informative and concise, thanks.
Thanks for the comment, so nice hear. Cheers!
I love your tripps and ticks..:)
Mate! Thanks, much appreciated👍
super super cool im in a lagoon 450 and have a friction ring permanently installed on each Genoa sheet barber in for close haul barber out for downwind very very nice videos u making keep up the good work
Sounds an ideal set up! They’re great little gems onboard!! Thanks for the encouragement! 👊🏼 Lots in the pipeline.
Interesting.
Im going to make one and give it a go.
Cool
Nice, let us know how you get on!
It's not just speed that you lose. Depending on your hull configuration, you'll also gain drift. The sum of lost speed and gained drift can mean that you'll be much later arriving at your upwind location than if you tacked a little less high on the wind. This, obviously, will be different per boat.
PS I use the barber hauler with the gennaker for more trimming options. People also use it with spinnakers, I believe.
Yup, your right!
As for spinnakers we can haul both down and in to achieve good shape, it super important (for me anyway) with the kite, it’s what allows us to trim it well and achieve the performance that it offers! It quite often that we see spinnakers up that are nit being utilised properly.
I have a downeaster 38 cutter that sails pretty terribly upwind. Often the current makes it where each tack is not gaining any forward motion, just going in and out. When I get too close to the wind I get no forward speed to overcome the current, and when I fall off the wind the tacks make little progress. Would this help?
@bullschitt3666 what a classy boat! I would imagine the keel isn’t really going to allow for great upwind performance but the barber is worth a try! I wouldn’t spend though, just tie a bowline around the sheet and haul it in/down or both to get the sail shape correct - also, I’m sure you already are but make sure your getting the mainsail to work with it using the laminar flow from the slot. Le us know how you get on!
Or you can save yourself a fortune and just pull the other sheet in 😁 👍
Good move, I like it 👍 We used a friction ring to save money. That way you can easily tack if needed. The cool thing with the Antal barber is we use it for all sorts, even our spinnaker blocks. Super useful piece of kit.
What’s the speed difference with the barberhauler on ?
Interesting question, it really is about speed vs pointing ability. If you point higher you go slower but your not going as far sideways. It’s about velocity made good as opposed to speed.
However if you only use the barber to haul in a little, say enough to point 5° higher to maybe 38° off true wind you will probably not make much loss of speed at all and you get to your destination quicker due to less distance being covers in your tacks. I hope that make sense to you!
@@SailHub i own a pogo 650. On that boat the barber hauler I would say gives me about an extra 5° of point ability. And I lose about 10% of speed
On my 36 bene a barber hauler would give me at least an extra 10° of point but I lose almost 40% of speed.
@@goodq cheers for chipping in! Super 👍 p.s… I would love to sail your boat!!
Shame you didn’t show what you did with the other end of the barber hauler line.
Sorry Dave, it was pretty simple though- just cleated it off on the midships cleat.
Would it be bad to tie a third line to the clew and use that to bring the sail in?
You could try it and it sound work, the only issue will be your cap shrouds chafing it. Just put a bowline round the sheet to try it out and see if it works for a short while.
30º real wind? you mean apparent, right?
Hi,
This was a demonstration to show how close we can sail with the Barbour hauler, however sailing this close is not really worth it as the speed is so low.
The 30° was true wind - you may be able to see it in highlighted in the RayMarine instrument dial. With the barbour she can sail at 20° apparent although slowly. We tend to sail a decent speed at 30° to the apparent.
@@SailHub I usually understood this “Cruising monohulls sailing close-hauled can generally point 45 degrees true wind angle to windward while cruising catamarans typically sail close-hauled at 60 degrees. Many racing boats can point 35 degrees to windward and sometimes even higher.” With my boat sailing to less than 40º aparent is difficult, can’t believe somebody sails at 20º😱
Sure, without the Barbour we’re around 40°-45° and with it we’re much closer, the best angle is 30°-35° for us. At 4:40 the instrument ms clearly show what we’re sailing at - using the barbour with a jib makes a huge difference. Although, not all monohulls are the same - rig type and keel type will have an effect on how close you can get too. 👍
@@PaudolphyGmail Interesting piece of kit, thank you Sail hub for showing and trying it , like that it works as a snatch block,easy to put on and could see it as an improvement on jib clew position in some breezes.Would agree about the 20 degrees being hard to believe tho, would like to see all the instruments for such a claim (boat speed ,true and apparent wind speed with angle).
Boat speed was 2.2. knots at 40 degrees apparent (3mins and 1 sec) then dropped to 1.1 knots at 30 degrees ( 4mins 40 secs). Boat speed has been cut in half . If I understand correctly , it's a balance between highest speed and the direction you want to go. Here I would suggest the higher pointing angle with the new jib clew position is a worse change . My understanding/reasoning/evidence is slower boat speed thru the water on a beat means less effective sideways grip/lift from the rudder and keel (am assuming a fin keel tho don't know for sure) , that means more leeway. Slower speed and more leeway means less efficient upwind progress. Efficient progress to windward, depends on a lot of factors e.g. wind speed, clew position as well as jib sheeting angle, forestay tension, main sail , heel of boat, sea conditions etc . In tighter on the jib clew doesn't always mean better for a beat. For all that ,great to see people experimenting with different gear and techniques.
Hey Paul,
Your entirely right, pointing so high means less optimal use of keels and rudders etc and therefor more leeway and poor performance. We also loose speed when pointing so high.
The idea of the video was to show what can be achieved if needed and encourage others to give the barber a try and maybe improve their upwind performance. I find it amazing how so many boats could be such better upwind sailors if they were only rigged a little different.
So, 20° true is possible, however it’s at some where between 25° and 30° true where the performance starts to make sense and a decent velocity made good can be noted. Of course with greater wind speeds the effects make more sense as when we point higher we have more wind to power the boat at such tight angles. At the end of the day it’s all about VMG.
I find the barber is a super simple and good piece of kit, pretty much all racers use them. It makes sense for long beats on a cruiser and maybe even to pinch super high once in a while to get round a mark if it’s quicker than putting a tack in.
It’s also super handy to reuse the same barber for closing the leach on spinnakers.
Thanks for getting involved and sharing your thoughts, I would love to hear how you get on if you give it a try.
Cheers -Chris 👍⛵️
So without it you had 2.2kn in 6.0 knots of wind at 45 degrees and now with it on you have only 1.1 kn of boat speed in 7.2 kn TWS at 30 degrees. Your VMG is much worse...
VMG in this instance was worse, but like I said, if you need to pinch up this works.
If you have more wind you can of course achieve higher boat speeds and get yourself up to hull speed, but 10° closer which is why they are commonly used in racing.