Bought a 1975 Pearson 28 (First boat bigger than a Sunfish!) earlier this year. The previous owner assisted in rigging the sails when I launched. First time I set the Jib, a 150 Genoa, the shape of the sail didn't look right, way too taut along the trailing edge and slack at the foot. Moving the Jib cars all the way back improved things significantly. Digging into it further, I found that using the longer Gunwale mounted rails/cars (versus the Deck-mounted) allowed the foot of the sail to be pulled straighter than previously. Your simple methodology clarifies what I did and has helped me tremendously. Thanks for posting!
sailing is easy, put canvas up and the boat moves... the skill in sailing comes from knowing all the secrets of trimming that cloth for best efficiency. Thanks for these videos, now i have something else to adjust on my boat next time im out. Cheers!
This was excellent, the best and simplest explanation. The best advice is treating his mate with gentle touch: "Honey you want to luff a little" Nawt beeyad for a chowader Heyad!
Working on a San Juan 23 so l may learn to sail. This video was very informative and clear enough a no nothing could understand. Will be watching more. Thank you.
Excellent video. One small note about the line making all parts of the sail equally twisted. While it helps to say it that way to simplify explaining the principles, in practice, the top half has to be more twisted than the bottom, simply because there's typically more wind at the top. This is typically how the sails are cut. More twist at the top than at the bottom, by default. You can verify this by looking towards from the bottom of the forestay.
Excellent video... great practical & theoretical explanation...have subd. I've just come across ur channel & plan 2 watch more of ur videos. U deserve way more subscribers..!
I adjust my blocks another way. I put my boat on course and trim the jib then look at my telltails if the top are lifting but middle and bottom are streaming then block goes forward if bottom are hanging and middle and top are streaming I move it aft. I don’t have to luff up to see what adjustment I need . I feel it is a easy way to set the jib block and have been doing that way for 50 years. I do have to luff the jib to release sheet tension move block forward
On my 12’ Hobie Monohull I’m hoping a 12” track will be enough adjustment for an added job. I’ll certainly place it so the line goes to the middle of the leech. Thanks
Thank you for the great explanation. But I wonder, would it be beneficial to adjust the twist in different wind conditions, as you do with the main sail (by moving the traveller)?
So for stronger winds on beam reach or points of sail forward of that.... start from the relevant default position for the selected foresail reef (as brilliantly discribed here) and move the car some notches backward. This releases leech tension so that the top of the sail twists leeward to spill wind reducing heel and makes the lower sail more effectively drive forward. In moderate winds i guess a notch fwd might spill less above and get a fraction more of a knot. Anyways after headsail then optimise the slot by setting the main using sheet (slot) and vang with traveller (mainstay twist). This sounds like I tweak a lot but I'm not a racer so happy to just get things 80%. Racers know more about this stuff than we cruisers so happy to be corrected.
I cant answer as I am uncertain by what you mean with "other wind direction. Wind from what direction, what is the point of sail that you have in mind?
Do you need to adjust the jib-car position if you change your point of sail, or the wind strengthens/eases? Does the jibcar usually move forward or backward as you get closer to the wind? Does the jibcar usually move forward or backward as the wind strengthens?
In our usual cruising mode, I do not adjust for either change. In higher winds, some folks believe in moving the the car forward to open the leech, I dont think this is useful and rather partially furl the jib. If sailing upwind AND not closehauled, the jib will start to twist, and the lead should go forward AND outward to remove/reduce the twist. Most race boats have a slotted toe rail so a block can be put in the right right spot for any upwind point of sail. The Pearson has a teak toe rail, if sailing upwind and not closehauled, for an extended time, I will run a baberhauler through a block set on a stanchion base, and use it to adjust the sheet outwards and forward to remove/reduce the jib twist. Just remember to adjust/remove it when changing course.
It has to do with the twist. But the slot is also importent. The space between jib and main . 3d sheeting of jib? Also the trim line in aft of jib. " snörplinan"
I’ve noticed my friends Cape Dory has the jib cars/pulleys on the outside…. There is a track where one is normally, but no car….what’s the difference/ thinking?
The lateral position of the jib track, between the outer edge of the deck to an internal location closer to the centerline of the boat, affects the ability of the boat to point (sail close to the wind). The designer(or owner) of a boat relying on outer jib tracks is not particularly concerned about how well the boat will sail to windward, although I would expect most any boat with only outside tracks to have other design factors also limiting upwind performance, so the track location may not matter so much. Outside tracks are valuable to performance when close or even beam reaching, as moving the jib block position out and forward serves to reduce the twist that develops when the sheet is eased.
Traditionally genoa/jib car track is oriented fore-aft. But I have seen some genoa/jib car tracks that are oriented port-starboard. I wonder what are the advantages of transverse genoa/jib tracks?
Exactly. They move the sheet over to the other side when tacking. I think it's called the jib traveler in English. In such cases, you may see a barber hauler to help with trimming.
It strong wind the car is under a lot of tension how do you manage to move the car forward without it running away from you? Its also hard to pull the car securing knob up in strong wind to adjust the car position any tips on this please .
My approach is to first reset the car on the windward side of the boat, ie the car with no load on it. Then tack the boat and you can change to second car, the one that started with load on it. Then if course requires it, tack back to your original course.
@@SailFanatics Many Thanks Sir, for speedy reply, and good answer, however there has to be another way,? surly you dont have to make a Tack just to shorten the Genoa in a Stiff wind, when i had to shorten often, i would rather keep the same course heading, last 2 times i was caught out in a Blow, certainly would not have been keen on a Tack, those days i was out, thats for sure.
Well, if you really dont want to tack the boat, you can head up til the jib luffs, this unloads the block so you can move it. First, place your foot on the sheet ahead of the block so you avoid getting wacked by the flogging sheet while tending to the block.
This is soe strange.......When i look at the Jib Car on the deck and see you use it..it seems soe fragile comperd to the mainsail and the power the mainsail is giving that i wonder: Is the purpose og the sail conected to the Jib Car ONLY ment as a litte "helpsail"? ore is it alsoe ment/can be used in storms?
For most sloop sailboats the jib sail is much larger than the main. On our P 31-2, the 1135% jib is about 1.8 times the size of the main, so the jib produces more power than the main. With the typical sloop, the mainsail is more the "helpsail" than the jib is...
rick25137 I would assume it’s hard and possibly dangerous to adjust the jib car while it is under tension, but you may be able to adjust the opposite jib car, then tack and adjust the other, then back on course - sounds easier than lowering the sail. :)
I'm surprised. Are you saying the car position is ONLY linked to the the size of the jib then?! I thought it would very with course and wind strenghth??
The correct car position for any jib is related to its size, yes... moved forward for a 100%, but aft for a 150%, etc. But as you change the angle of the boat to the wind, by bearing off, the ideal block position would move forward AND out, as mentioned in the video. The objective is still to not twist the shape of the sail, and forward and out, to the limit of your vessel's beam, will minimize the development of twist. There was a school of thought that promoted adjusting the location of the block depending on wind strength, such a s move forward in a breeze to luff the upper part of the sail, but with furling jibs now, you just partially furl the jib, adjusting the block forward accordingly, and that is that.
![[FULL EP.84] มึงแฉกูแฉ "โอ๊ต ปราโมทย์" จัดหนัก "ซานิ" ยับ! l ซานิเบาได้เบา l One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_GQ1C8mtE08/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you chief, that is the clearest explanation I've ever heard, I understood it without having to take a single sip of whiskey... Cheerio!
professorbuglefarts1 💗
Thank you so much! It was a valuable lesson on trimming, but significantly more important, on how to talk to your crew, captain! Fair winds ... ⛵️
This was the very best, most informative (hands on always trumps a whiteboard)demonstration I have ever seen!
Thanks. As an ocasional sail trimmer, Its nice to have a visual aid.
Brilliant, at last the magic of sailing explained so a dullard like me can understand it. Thanks
Even for me with very limited sailing experience this was easy to follow, thank you!!
Bought a 1975 Pearson 28 (First boat bigger than a Sunfish!) earlier this year. The previous owner assisted in rigging the sails when I launched. First time I set the Jib, a 150 Genoa, the shape of the sail didn't look right, way too taut along the trailing edge and slack at the foot. Moving the Jib cars all the way back improved things significantly. Digging into it further, I found that using the longer Gunwale mounted rails/cars (versus the Deck-mounted) allowed the foot of the sail to be pulled straighter than previously.
Your simple methodology clarifies what I did and has helped me tremendously. Thanks for posting!
This video is GREAT! Thanks so much for the information!
sailing is easy, put canvas up and the boat moves... the skill in sailing comes from knowing all the secrets of trimming that cloth for best efficiency. Thanks for these videos, now i have something else to adjust on my boat next time im out. Cheers!
This was excellent, the best and simplest explanation. The best advice is treating his mate with gentle touch: "Honey you want to luff a little" Nawt beeyad for a chowader Heyad!
Working on a San Juan 23 so l may learn to sail. This video was very informative and clear enough a no nothing could understand. Will be watching more. Thank you.
Fantastic knowledge. Now I really understand how the rib car can optimise lift. Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the clear explanation. Simple and clear vídeo! Greetings from Arica/Chile
this is great, the visuals make this better than all others, thanks!
Brilliant explanation, thanks for taking the time to make this video, very useful
Cheers Rich
Amazing! Perfectly explained. Have been looking for video such is this for ages!
Love the accent and love the explanation. Brilliant!
I’m new to sailing and your videos are great.
Excellent video. One small note about the line making all parts of the sail equally twisted. While it helps to say it that way to simplify explaining the principles, in practice, the top half has to be more twisted than the bottom, simply because there's typically more wind at the top.
This is typically how the sails are cut. More twist at the top than at the bottom, by default. You can verify this by looking towards from the bottom of the forestay.
Excellent video and explanation. Thank you!
Very nice explanation of jib car position and how it effects jib performance. Thank you.
Excellent video... great practical & theoretical explanation...have subd.
I've just come across ur channel & plan 2 watch more of ur videos.
U deserve way more subscribers..!
Love this channel..
I was experimenting with it yesterday but didn't know what to look for. Next time, hopefully tomorrow, I'll put it to the test.
Very informative thank you
Thank you for this. Good information.
Thanks what a great explaination.
That was great!
I did a competent crew course but can't remember this being discussed.
50% rule. Thank you.
Excellent
I adjust my blocks another way. I put my boat on course and trim the jib then look at my telltails if the top are lifting but middle and bottom are streaming then block goes forward if bottom are hanging and middle and top are streaming I move it aft. I don’t have to luff up to see what adjustment I need . I feel it is a easy way to set the jib block and have been doing that way for 50 years. I do have to luff the jib to release sheet tension move block forward
Brilliant why does this not show up when you search sail trim vids?
thanks
On my 12’ Hobie Monohull I’m hoping a 12” track will be enough adjustment for an added job. I’ll certainly place it so the line goes to the middle of the leech. Thanks
👍
Thank you for the great explanation. But I wonder, would it be beneficial to adjust the twist in different wind conditions, as you do with the main sail (by moving the traveller)?
Yes, you can do that, although I find such adjustment not useful to me. I wanted to cover the essential basics in this video.
So for stronger winds on beam reach or points of sail forward of that.... start from the relevant default position for the selected foresail reef (as brilliantly discribed here) and move the car some notches backward. This releases leech tension so that the top of the sail twists leeward to spill wind reducing heel and makes the lower sail more effectively drive forward.
In moderate winds i guess a notch fwd might spill less above and get a fraction more of a knot.
Anyways after headsail then optimise the slot by setting the main using sheet (slot) and vang with traveller (mainstay twist).
This sounds like I tweak a lot but I'm not a racer so happy to just get things 80%.
Racers know more about this stuff than we cruisers so happy to be corrected.
Does this apply for other wind direction
I cant answer as I am uncertain by what you mean with "other wind direction. Wind from what direction, what is the point of sail that you have in mind?
Do you need to adjust the jib-car position if you change your point of sail, or the wind strengthens/eases?
Does the jibcar usually move forward or backward as you get closer to the wind?
Does the jibcar usually move forward or backward as the wind strengthens?
In our usual cruising mode, I do not adjust for either change.
In higher winds, some folks believe in moving the the car forward to open the leech, I dont think this is useful and rather partially furl the jib.
If sailing upwind AND not closehauled, the jib will start to twist, and the lead should go forward AND outward to remove/reduce the twist. Most race boats have a slotted toe rail so a block can be put in the right right spot for any upwind point of sail. The Pearson has a teak toe rail, if sailing upwind and not closehauled, for an extended time, I will run a baberhauler through a block set on a stanchion base, and use it to adjust the sheet outwards and forward to remove/reduce the jib twist. Just remember to adjust/remove it when changing course.
@@SailFanatics thanks for calrifying
It has to do with the twist. But the slot is also importent. The space between jib and main .
3d sheeting of jib?
Also the trim line in aft of jib.
" snörplinan"
I’ve noticed my friends Cape Dory has the jib cars/pulleys on the outside…. There is a track where one is normally, but no car….what’s the difference/ thinking?
The lateral position of the jib track, between the outer edge of the deck to an internal location closer to the centerline of the boat, affects the ability of the boat to point (sail close to the wind). The designer(or owner) of a boat relying on outer jib tracks is not particularly concerned about how well the boat will sail to windward, although I would expect most any boat with only outside tracks to have other design factors also limiting upwind performance, so the track location may not matter so much.
Outside tracks are valuable to performance when close or even beam reaching, as moving the jib block position out and forward serves to reduce the twist that develops when the sheet is eased.
the left of the jib if I'm looking at it from fore or aft?
I believe you might have misheard “the luff of the jib,” the forward edge of the jib.
asa.com/news/2019/03/14/understanding-sailboats-the-sails/
Traditionally genoa/jib car track is oriented fore-aft. But I have seen some genoa/jib car tracks that are oriented port-starboard. I wonder what are the advantages of transverse genoa/jib tracks?
Not sure. But i think beamwise tracks fwd of mast are more about automatic jib tacking?
Exactly. They move the sheet over to the other side when tacking. I think it's called the jib traveler in English.
In such cases, you may see a barber hauler to help with trimming.
It strong wind the car is under a lot of tension how do you manage to move the car forward without it running away from you? Its also hard to pull the car securing knob up in strong wind to adjust the car position any tips on this please .
My approach is to first reset the car on the windward side of the boat, ie the car with no load on it. Then tack the boat and you can change to second car, the one that started with load on it. Then if course requires it, tack back to your original course.
@@SailFanatics Many Thanks Sir, for speedy reply, and good answer, however there has to be another way,? surly you dont have to make a Tack just to shorten the Genoa in a Stiff wind, when i had to shorten often, i would rather keep the same course heading, last 2 times i was caught out in a Blow, certainly would not have been keen on a Tack, those days i was out, thats for sure.
Well, if you really dont want to tack the boat, you can head up til the jib luffs, this unloads the block so you can move it. First, place your foot on the sheet ahead of the block so you avoid getting wacked by the flogging sheet while tending to the block.
This is soe strange.......When i look at the Jib Car on the deck and see you use it..it seems soe fragile comperd to the mainsail and the power the mainsail is giving that i wonder: Is the purpose og the sail conected to the Jib Car ONLY ment as a litte "helpsail"? ore is it alsoe ment/can be used in storms?
For most sloop sailboats the jib sail is much larger than the main. On our P 31-2, the 1135% jib is about 1.8 times the size of the main, so the jib produces more power than the main. With the typical sloop, the mainsail is more the "helpsail" than the jib is...
@@SailFanatics Thx fore the feedback. Soe does that meen that the jib is better to use in STORM then the mainsail? If NOTT, why?
Nice explanation I just wish my Jib car was easier to move while under sail, Tying the sail off to adjust it can. Be annoying
rick25137 I would assume it’s hard and possibly dangerous to adjust the jib car while it is under tension, but you may be able to adjust the opposite jib car, then tack and adjust the other, then back on course - sounds easier than lowering the sail. :)
head up and relieve some tension
I'm surprised. Are you saying the car position is ONLY linked to the the size of the jib then?! I thought it would very with course and wind strenghth??
The correct car position for any jib is related to its size, yes... moved forward for a 100%, but aft for a 150%, etc. But as you change the angle of the boat to the wind, by bearing off, the ideal block position would move forward AND out, as mentioned in the video. The objective is still to not twist the shape of the sail, and forward and out, to the limit of your vessel's beam, will minimize the development of twist.
There was a school of thought that promoted adjusting the location of the block depending on wind strength, such a s move forward in a breeze to luff the upper part of the sail, but with furling jibs now, you just partially furl the jib, adjusting the block forward accordingly, and that is that.
Job cahh
Its better to have a toe rail. Just forget all about that slide in the WALKWAY. A clear walkway is way more important at night.