Headsail Upgrades- 3D sheeting low friction
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2023
- In the shop we remove our jib tracks and install an almost infinitely adjustable jib sheet lead. we also go for a test sail and install a whisker pole rounding out our upgrades and improvements to our headsail setup.
For the bitter ends of the sheets, you can use a little section of adhesive lined heat shrink. It will stop it from ever fraying, looks super nice and tidy, and prevent any of the core from slipping in or out from the outer sleeve/layers. Really cool little upgrade
That’s a good idea! I’m sure it would do better than what I did to my halyards. I used the traditional whipping method and the whipping line is coming apart and dangling and getting caught in things, so annoying! I’ll try the heat shrink. Thanks for the idea and thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing your beautiful dream world and your clever rigging ideas too!
Our pleasure! Thank you for watching
Outstanding video! Love the instructional upgrade!
Glad you liked it!
That’s a sweet setup! Beautiful day! Thanks for it!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching
Such a great idea. I’m definitely stealing this for my winter refit. Great video!
Please do! I am pretty happy with it so far and can’t wait to sail close hauled in some heavy winds!!
I like that. I also would like to shape my jib sail a little better, and it couldn't hurt having a whisker pole.
We have had fun with the whisker pole! Makes flying wing on wing a lot easier. Also the near infinite jib lead adjustments have been great and it is a lot of fun trying to get the perfect sail trim. Thanks for watching!
Love you guys!!! Awesome video!!!
Thank you.
I really enjoyed this, thanks for sharing it! I also have a whisker pole that I got with my new to me boat but wasn't sure how it attached to the mast, now I know. What a beautiful venue, consider me envious!
I also glad, thanks for watching, and yes we are blessed to live and play in such a beautiful area !
Great idea. I have a feeling I'll also be entertaining adding more jib control once I get my new-to-me Gloucester 16 in the water next summer. Thanks for documenting it so well.
Congratulations on the boat! they are so much fun to sail and easy to maintain and upgrade. The added jib control I think will be a game changer. Thanks for watching!
That lake shot was money in the bank! Hope your new setup will make all your wildest dreams come true. Optimize your wind encounters in every point of sail. 🤙
I was filming the plane coming in for a landing and when I realized the beauty I was looking at my jaw dropped! So beautiful. Just need some good wind and we’ll be rocking!🤘
Just finished bolting new acrylic windows onto my WWP15 and used the same chamfer/butyl sealing technique with continuous line of butyl between holes as well. Glad to see others care about their work too.
Very nice!
Looks great, dogs love it, perfect kind of sailing day my wife enjoys!
Yes it was a great day. A little slow for sailing but very relaxing!
@@ruddyducksailing We can't go out in more than 10 kts of wind or heel more than ten degrees or she starts screaming. ..
Beautiful calm!
Yes it was! Thanks for watching
You could tie a bungee rope on the outside of the low friction ring and tie the other end a meter or two up the shroud to keep it in place when its not under load.
Great idea! I haven’t utilized bungee on anything yet but I know it’s a popular solution on a lot of racing boats. Thank you for the suggestion!
Good solution.
My thoughts:
having the two control lines running through the ring, as well as the sail line, they will all abrade upon one another. You're never (in climbing) supposed to join metal to metal, or rope to rope (except where guaranteed not to move).
Therefore, i quite like the suggestion below of making a splice or bowline around the low friction ring, with only the sail line running through the ring. However, the two control lines will still abrade against one another.
Ideally therefore, you really need a clover-leaf arrangement, such that each line has its own ring.
Another thought: A countersink bit is designed for countersinking. The method you use with the larger drill bit clearly works, the proper tool may be neater / offer greater control. A standard drill bit, having only two twists, can drill a little on the oval side when starting.
Hey thanks so much for watching and commenting!! So for the first part the lines only run around the inside of the ring and do not touch each other at all under load. However I would like to try the single line spliced also like I’ve been discussing with the other viewers! But You’re right that there is no room on the outside of the ring for two lines (spliced or not) so I’m trying a alpine butterfly knot around the ring to hold it and then the control lines can be loaded separately without slipping. If that doesn’t work I’ll keep it like it is cause it’s working great. 😀Also I do have countersinks but the fiberglass was too thin for a deep chamfer so I used the wrong tool to do the right job. Thanks again !!!
Perhaps if you made a spacer for under the cam clete you could create a space with a hole for your line thus eliminating the hole into the cabin which will end up leaking like crazy. It's sad to create a leak when you have gone to so much trouble to prevent them everywhere else. I would make the space from an old HDPE cutting board.
That’s a really really good idea! The hole was temporary until I figured something out as I didn’t want a padeye in that location . I like rigging to be clean and neat. If I routered out a teardrop shape the size of the line in the bottom of the base that the cleat mounts to ( hdpe) I could use a eye splice termination ! And mount it back on to the bulkhead. Dang that would look clean and function well! With no leaks!!! A lot of work but oh well. Thank you so much for that awesome idea😀
Do you need the line to loop back? I was thinking you could eye splice on the ring itself instead of looping into the ring. If you need the extra deflection maybe a small fairlead?
@@dominalexican You actually make a great point. He did not make use of the rim of the low friction ring so he could go with an eye splice. Great suggestion. The only advantage to looping back is that it gives you mechanical advantage but if you don't need that on a small boat then your idea is best. In fact both lines could be eye spliced in that way and the inner surface of the ring would be totally devoted to the jib sheet. Brilliant.
Yes that would definitely be the cleanest way to rig it up. I’m pretty sure I don’t need the 2:1 mechanical advantage as it’s a very small sail relatively. I’ll have to see if it’s even possible to eye splice a double braid 4mm line. Never tried one that small and I know at some point it’s impossible with small lines. Could do dyneema if the cams would hold!
I probably don’t need it to loop back. Have to sail in 20 knots to find out !!!
Love the byutal tape - works much better than “schmookie”! I used it on all the stantion bases on my Tartan 34 C
It’s definitely my favorite! Stanchion bases, hatches, windows, handrails, deck hardware I always use butyl . Used to use 4200 and I works well but it’s super messy, expensive, and once you open the tube you gotta use the whole thing before it hardens.
Jib shape and luff and leech tension depends on forestay tension. On an N16 you don't have it. The bridge has too much give. You have to install a mast strut through the cabin.
But a mast strut is anchored on the keel so the keel has to be reinforced. So there you go round and round. On my Gloucester version I just accept my 90 degree go about and forget it. No tracks, no Barber hauler. Your system is ingenious but comes with the severe penalty of putting a nasty lump in the boat's most comfortable back rest, Molly's favorite, I think. ED
Yeah when the wind gets heavy I wish I could have a tighter forestay. I thought about installing running back stays so I could easily tension the forestay but I would probably have to strengthen the cabin top. A beam and some knees might work also instead of a compression post to keep the space clear. And yeah I sacrificed comfort for a little performance. Typical me 😂 but I think some nice cushions will fix that problem!
I've seen a similar system on a Sun Odyssey 40' I chartered, but they rigged it by making two eye splices around the low friction ring to keep the whole interior of the ring free for the jib sheet. The control lines from the ring were led to turning blocks and then back to the cockpit so it could be adjusted easily.
That may be a good option for me! The examples I’ve seen go through the friction ring to offer a 2:1 purchase. This was on race boats with high loads. I may be better off with a single line , 1:1 because my sail is very small comparatively
Thanks for the suggestion I may change it to eye splices on the ring!
I have been doing this on my trimaran for about 30 years. 3 reasons in my case: 1) Tracks and cars specified are not available up here; 2) Was using a catamaran sail that was not designed for my boat, and was too low to the fore deck to get a good angle, but using carabiners, and clove hitches the angle was nearly flat; 3) Deck was made of Blatek Duracore, and I am paranoid about water incursion. So far so good; 4) As a past climber I had all the parts ready to go. There are a lot of other advantages, like light weight, I can position the sheets almost anywhere on the boat, and with an 18.5 x 24 platform, there are a lot of options.
The simplest version of mine is just a loop with a twist secured to biners on the nets, and tow biner for the sheets hitched to the loop,, you can infinitly move the sheets to positions in or out, and the self space. In my case they don't need any ratchets as the winches create a good line. For other things like genoas I can clip off to the nets to secure them. I thought that was the end of the nets, but they seem to live up to it for my sailing.
That’s awesome!!! It sounds like you have a great system and a fun boat! I can attest to the strength and versatility of carabiners as I was an avid climber also! There is a lot of neat climbing gear and methods that can transfer over to sailing! Thanks for watching and commenting!!😃
Good work! Thanks for sharing! This may also be a solution for our J22. 😀
Thanks. The j22 is a upwind sailing beast and the jib leads are very far inboard but adding the 3d system would definitely get you more control
Looks like you have the most fun on the littlest boat on you- tube
Yeah we definitely try! Thanks for watching 😄
My Compac 16 has the same upwind challenges. I may try to do this.
Being able to sheet in closer to the centerline definitely helped me . Next I’ll be adding a traveler to help with the mainsail. It still won’t be a race boat but it will definitely sail better to windward.
@@ruddyducksailing yeah, neither of our boats are race boats but that's not what I boat it for.... 😆
Good thinkin ! Getting it really dialed in …
Yes sir, one piece at a time! I hope you had a great trip on the lake!!!
Shoulda watched to the end. You installed a double twing-line
Yeah that’s pretty much what it is.
pretty neat set up to get that extra out of the sail plan trimming ,whats next ,a roller furling
Yeah it should be fun trimming! I have definitely thought of a furler, but most likely I’ll be adding a tiny sprit with a top down furler and a big drifter or gennaker for some downwind fun. I may keep a hank on jib but not sure yet.
great idea do you have the part numbers so they can be purchased about to get an eagle 525
I don’t have part numbers but I used 4 ronstan mini cam cleats, 2 low friction rings to fit the line size chosen, 2 ronstan series 30 orbit blocks on standup springs and padeyes. And enough line to reach wherever the cam cleats are mounted.
I wonder if the line-on-line friction inside the aluminum ring will cause glazing and wear on the sheaths.
I wondered that also and I don’t think it will because under load none of the lines touch each other. The majority of the friction will come during tacking and gybing when the system is unloaded but time will tell!
@@ruddyducksailing Probably will hold up well--it's cool rigging in general.
I think you would call that setup "twings", and you might want to slide a pool noodle on the pole, ask me how I know 😁
I was wondering that myself. Twings usually refer to spinnaker adjustments and the blocks are usually removable but my setup is very similar. And in regards to the pole 😂 I think they should’ve named it bludgeon pole cause that’s what it can do in strong wind.
or a barber hauler...
With the jib sheet attachment I use a soft shackle.
That’s smart! Especially if you use multiple headsails and use the same sheets.
1:56 can those cleats hold a dyneema hollow braid rope?
sellers can't answer it.
since dyneema is a very low friction material.
I’ve always heard that it is too slippery to hold in a clutch but I had no personal experience and your question got me curious. I just went out to the boat in my shop and tested out a piece of 1/4” amsteel blue dyneema in a mini cam cleat. It kinda held ok pulling straight back until the slightest angle was put on the line then it slipped right out. I would say definitely don’t use bare dyneema!
@@ruddyducksailing so will slip in any kind of quick release cleat.
thanks.
Wouldn’t a travelling car on the gunnels have been a better solution for your jib sheet, that’s what bigger yachts use after all 😊
No. And I only say that because we had the tracks on the gunnels before and the new system is way lighter and has so much more range of adjustments ,Not just back and forth but side to side, for almost unlimited sheeting angles. If a guy just wants to set the sails and not have much to do then tracks would be better but I love to trim and get every last bit of power out of my sails . 😀
Does your deck have a core? Don't you need to drill an oversize hole, fill with epoxy, and then drill the right-sized hole? I thought this was necessary to prevent water ingress into the fiberglass and/or core. Great videos!
It does not have a core in those locations. And yes I use the drill fill drill method with epoxy on everything that has a core. So far on this boat it has only been pintles on the transom that used this method. Thank you so much for watching!
Is this different from a barber hauler?
Kinda but not really. I think the difference is that barber haulers pull directly horizontally and usually with a snatch block. The system I set up pulls horizontally and vertically giving me 3d control. But yeah basically two opposing barbers! Thanks for watching
Seems like a good idea to you now, but try it out awhile.
Absolutely, that’s the fun part. We’re going to sail a ton and see if there’s any tweaks to make it better. If it doesn’t work we’ll throw the tracks back on but so far I love the system !! Thanks for watching
All I can say is I never knew ricky from trailer park boys sailed. No offence but resemblance and voice are very similar lol. Love your show.
Lol. I don’t get the reference cause I’ve never seen the show. I look forward to doing my homework and watching this handsome devil, 😂
@@ruddyducksailing your much calmer lol
2:01 What knife is that?!
And 13K views but only 702 subscribers...what's wrong with people? Now 703.
Kershaw speedsafe, Ken onion I believe. EDC and a little dull. Time to get the whetstone out!! I appreciate you subscribing
If I may critique your sail trim design. Your assumption that bringing the clew of the head sail closer into the center of the boat to improve up wind performance is incorrect and in fact is counter productive. The sail is designed to act like a wing when going to weather. Your jib sheet design characteristics flattens the foot of sail which changes the wing shape and removes most to the sail twist, which is what provides the drive to move the boat forward. You may want to research optimum head sail trim and revise your design accordingly. Also, I noticed there are no tell tails on your head sail. Adding those near the luff and on the leech of the sail will greatly enhance your sail trimming ability to improve the upwind performance.
Thanks for the critique!! Well new sails are on the way and they will have telltails on them. I’m pretty excited so see the performance increase. As far as my setup goes I don’t think you fully understand how it works. The jib sheet ring doesn’t just move in but it can go up down and side to side so you can flatten the foot or induce as much twist as possible. It has a huge range of motion compared to the old tracks that were only a foot long .