Great review, thank you. I've been 3D printing for 4 years now and even started a business out of it. I'm looking for a second printer. What I really want over the current one is a sturdier frame and, more importantly, moving past manual bed leveling. From my experience, the latter is the absolute most important point and IMO a major user experience problem that should be addressed for all printers. Manual bed leveling and z-offset adjustment should be a thing of the past. Adjusting the bed for a good first layer is by far what has consumed the most of my time when operating the printer. I was so sick of leveling that I literally preordered the $2000 Prusa XL just for the fully automated leveling and step calibration. I don't even care about the extra size and multi-extruders (although they certainly open up possibilities). That said, I'm happy to see that most reviews report the strain gauge on the Vyper actually being an effective solution. I might just cancel the preorder on the XL and just get the Vyper.
There are many reviews for the Vyper on TH-cam, because its around a while. This review is by far the best and on point. Thank you for the very good presentation of the printer. Even this youtube video is already one year old, I just bought my vyper recently and I'm very happy with the functionality of the printer, but I have troubles with stringing and until now I didn't find a working cura profile to avoid it. Also prints with 0,2mm layer height looking not so good with my cura profile.Thanks for your effort to make this video.
Thank you for notifying me about the issue. My ender 3 pro keeps hitting runaway and it's not the thermistor. I just purchased an Anycubic Vyper as well, so I'll be on the lookout
Excellent review!!! I'm actually thinking of buying one today and I'm thankful I found your review. I just want to mention that this has been corrected from the manufacturer, I bought the Vyper a month a go and open it up to check this. All best!
@@angeleskidragan Thats great to hear! I have an E series Vyper (which I believe is their latest series), so its good to hear I wont have to worry about that issue.
The wire terminal problem - this likely happened because the ends of the wire are tinned. As they contact the internals of that green block, they only make contact at a few small points - where the hard solder on the strands touches the hard terminals. The resistance is concentrated here and thus the point of the power creation, so it gets hot. You can solve this by clipping the tinned ends off the wire (do this very carefully and don't let any strands fall on the board). Strip them back a little bit and twist the strands together slightly, then put them back in the block and crank them down. This will create more surface area of the wire touching the internals of the block.
Thank you so much i am a first timer well im a retired master machinists so i know code but thats it i worked for Lockheed when these were running under a oil os some liquid and the print took days i thought then damm this is way over my head. I thank you for your knowledge and will be watching
i prefer USB-B on mechanical gear, it just feels more solid and i have never had a semi broken unreliable usb-b, but tons of flaky micro usb cables, probably due to previous mechanical stress.
"Sounds" like that one motor is bad and why it is not silent. None of mine make a sound. Also, check to make sure nothing is slightly loose or rubbing you the wrong way in regards to that one y motor. As one responder mentioned, always cut off tinned ends and reinsert it with bare tightened wire if you have no other choice. That small amount should still give you enough wire. Cheers
Hello, I just returned a Ender 6 corexy. It was defective out the box, I did not want to play guessing games with Creality in trying to find out what was wrong with it, but they insisted. The issue I had was banging of the extruder against the rail. After troubleshooting, people and creality suggested it was the stopper, so i switch it out, and nothing changed. so creality sent me an adapter board, that too didnt fix the issue, at this point, a month had passed after getting it in the mail, and going back and forth with the company asking for a replacement machine, they again, persisted they would send parts. I dont know about you guys, but I value my time, even if its a learning experience with learning a DIY machine, if I purchase something, especially if its over 500 dollars, and it cannot at least function the bare minimal of what it was advertised to do because of a hardware malfunction (not because of a required minor adjustment), I would expect a replacement machine without any questions. All I did was follow the directions to a T, no added modifications etc, I even made sure the firmware was updated; nothing changed. So despite showing creality what their machine was doing, and asking that they just replace the machine, what do they do? Ask me if a roll of filament would suffice for the troubles I had been going through. Right, send me filament for the broken machine you refuse to just replace. So at this point, I just said screw it, I didnt want a replacement, I just wanted my money back, went through the Paypal team, basically got it resolved with some issues... Creality didnt want to come forward with a shipping label as they just gave me an warehouse address to deliver to, so i had to suck it up and send it back which cost me 100 dollars to send from where I live to TX. I will not be dealing with creality ever again. I dont care how much i see their products, it doesnt mean squat to me if their customer service for brand new customers is a band-aid approach while wasting their customer's time and money for nearly 2 months.
It’s been in my experience when dealing with wiring that carries a lot of current you had to be mindful simply putting a Farrell on a connector it’s simply moving the problem further down the line a better bet would be to trim the wires re-tin with Old school 50-50 solder making sure to clean all the flux completely and then coat them with A compound sold at electrical suppliers to prevent corrosion of the two unlike metals The problem also could be a lot of wiring used in China is copper coated aluminum which causes its share of problems also when you trim the ends you could see if they are using solid copper for their wiring many times they sneak aluminum wiring into electrical devices and pass it off as copper bad idea. The 50-50 Sauter provides a better connection when the set screws clamp down on it it’s much denser and harder than leadfree solder because it contains tin Leadfree solder is extremely soft. And should never be used on anything that’s not directly board related.
You could dolder the leads direct to the mother board. Heat problem solved. But Thst eould mesn you would have to remove the terminal block. Easy for some but not everyone wants to ho through that. Lol Great video Great honest review Thank you
Mine ran great for 3 months then had issues with clogging. Installed a new factory hotend and cleaned the extruder box, now I can't lay a decent first layer or brim. Been using the same filament and temperature settings the whole time.
What would be the best 3D printer for $500 or under? I have an old Ender 3 and it's slow. It doesn't have any auto-leveling. I want something that's a noticeable step up.
@@tombeardy4833 It has potential to be a good printer, nowhere near great. One major design flaw. Strain gauge fork used for ABL, Anycubic has replaced more of these strain gauges and entire hotend assemblies than they have sold printers. Even the D and newest E revision (serial numbers) have the support that prevents hotend from bending left and right does very little in preserving the strain gauge assembly. Don't even get me started on the printers with the TriGorilla mainboard revision that is experiencing thermal runaway literally starting fires in peoples homes. I own four of the Vypers, and trust me I wanted to believe in them and I recommended them to so many people, only to be made to look like a fool. Every Vyper of mine but one has had some sort of major issue. I assume you are unaware of these two common issues I have mentioned, and I totally understand if that's the case. Although I respect your opinion, I respectfully disagree with "the vyper is great" and so do many others.
As general accepted best practice, a wire going into a terminal block should have a bootlace ferrule. Acceptable is just a twisted bare wire. A tinned bare wire is least desirable or reliable.
I've had this printer for a few months and I have long print fails. I'm afraid to print anything over 5 hours. It keeps happening. The changed my settings, I emailed the company. They gave me a replacement motor for the extruder, but it still has long print fails. I don't know what's wrong with my printer. Smh
I just made the AV my 7th 3d printer. My first printer was a FlashForge Dreamer (the same printer that Dremel sold under their brand) but since then all my printers have been resin. So this is my 2nd filament printer. Just to clarify, the problem you had was the filament being on the side, right?
I got the Vyper for Christmas. Messed with it for two months and haven’t got a successful print yet. I got annoyed in early mid march messing with this thing and set it aside. I think if I could get it sorted out, I’d really like it. Customer service is pretty good about getting back to you but I hate that it brand new and have to go through all this headache. Something with the auto leveling and everything says it’s the sensor. They sent a whole new print head unit but didn’t resolve it. Now they’re saying it’s a software update issue. Really wanted to like this printer. Going to get back at it I guess and see what I can do. Frustrating though for sure.
@@tombeardy4833 yeah. I know that. This one won’t work at all. Can’t get past the start up menu. There’s something mechanically or in the software. Still trying to work through it. I work a lot so it’s hard to find the time to deal with it. It’s literally brand new and hasn’t worked since I got it. Trying all the things they suggest as I have time. Wish I could just return it at this point.
I got my Vyper about a week now, the first test print (The Owl in the SD card) came out outstanding impressively beautiful and detailed. Then, I tried one of my models without luck. I used the Cura Profile in the SD, downloaded several profiles and make my own, every time I sent to print it try to print out the bed, just in the homing corner and the Z axis to low. PLEASE HELP ME. I'm new to 3D printing....
I got my Vyper about a week now, the first test print (The Owl in the SD card) came out outstanding impressively beautiful and detailed. Then, I tried one of my models without luck. I used the Cura Profile in the SD, downloaded several profiles and make my own, every time I sent to print it try to print out the bed, just in the homing corner and the Z axis to low. PLEASE HELP ME. I'm new to 3D printing....
I know its 8 months later so you may have figured out the issue but in case you have not: I had the same issues with my Vyper. I couldnt get anything to print without bad stringing, artifacts, etc. I was at my wits end, when I decided to try slicing in PrusaSlicer instead of Cura. Boom. All of my prints came out almost perfect. If you happen to still be fighting print quality issues, try slicing in Prusa
2 prints have now failed me cause of the side mount filament... print a top mount is a must do. and angle thingy for spool/filament censor. when the print gets to high it strains the side mount spool and will mess up the prints... cost me 4+ days of a big 2 prints. Not happy. also don't run it in a box the heat creep will get bad unless u like in Canada or in a shed then you may need it. I have never tried turing heat bed off butt I disagree as some prints evven with skirts have delaminated for me, glue can fix this tho.
I've had my Vyper for 4 months its so close to been booted out the door. Watched all these reviews saying how good it is but its just more trouble than its worth. I had to get a new extruder and hot end assembly from Anycubic as they were both faulty. And setting OMG this thing is a picky as some women (sry ladys) every print it needs adjusting. My two Enders never had these problems. I just bought the Kobra Max now I'm hopping it doesn't have the same issues.
Hi umm this is my first 3d printer and i am unable to print test print owl. You say in the review that it is in the wrong file. When i try to print the screen turns off
I disagree with you on the fact that the Ender 3 version 2 would be a better first printer. I got in a 3D printing a month ago. And for somebody that knew absolutely zero about 3D printing. I purchased the Ender 3 version 2 because of the Amazon reviews and the amount that were sold. People that are new to 3D printing like myself for the time knew nothing about x y axis, g-codes, slicers, I mean it's a whole new world. And there is quite a bit to learn. I personally have fun through this process as I have numerous hobbies and I used to do electrical engineering. With that said I did run into quite a few issues the first five days with bed leveling. If if you like myself don't know anybody that has a 3D printer to give you one-on-one assistance you have to resort to TH-cam videos. The TH-cam video that I found for bed leveling came with some g-codes. And in a way they were flawed and caused me to have user error over the first five days. Once I got a decent G-code from CHEP at his channel.. it really helped. But the whole fact that it took me an hour to put the machine together and it took me 5 days to get a good print. And you got to understand I have an engineering background. I would think that the majority of your average users would have difficulty. And of course they do. I also purchased the any cubic Viper and it literally took me 5 minutes to put it together and on top of that it has all the major upgrades that you would have to spend an additional $200 for with the Ender 3 version 2. So with that said oh, I do love both printers. But if I had to go back in time I would have picked the anycubic vyper to be my first printer out of the box. Also if it's just somebody that's a hobbyist and wants to print a few things on the weekend the any cubic Viper is definitely better. Now if you like to Tinker installed her and upgrade your printer little by little by little by little then I think the Ender 3 version 2 is definitely better. The next freighter on my list is the Ender 3 S1 PRO.. That is what I really wished I started with. It has the best features out of the majority of printers today plus it also has the ability to heat to 300 degrees Celsius. In the end the purpose I got into 3D printing was to get into nylon carbon fiber filament.. and that printer will eat any plastic you feed it!! But I really loved this video and all the information you provided. Very informative and your channel is great!!
Has anyone had ghosting issues because of the way the hot end can flex on its strain gauge mount. I see the strain gauge led flicking on and off during printing. Btw it’s otherwise a great printer.
I think they decided to use this TypeB USB Cable because its a cheap shielded cable. There was a sentence in the instructions to be carefull while printing over the cable due to interference. Your normal USB-C or micro cables arent shielded.
Great review, thank you. I've been 3D printing for 4 years now and even started a business out of it. I'm looking for a second printer. What I really want over the current one is a sturdier frame and, more importantly, moving past manual bed leveling. From my experience, the latter is the absolute most important point and IMO a major user experience problem that should be addressed for all printers. Manual bed leveling and z-offset adjustment should be a thing of the past. Adjusting the bed for a good first layer is by far what has consumed the most of my time when operating the printer. I was so sick of leveling that I literally preordered the $2000 Prusa XL just for the fully automated leveling and step calibration. I don't even care about the extra size and multi-extruders (although they certainly open up possibilities). That said, I'm happy to see that most reviews report the strain gauge on the Vyper actually being an effective solution. I might just cancel the preorder on the XL and just get the Vyper.
It has automatic bed leveling so I’m kind of confused by this comment
There are many reviews for the Vyper on TH-cam, because its around a while. This review is by far the best and on point. Thank you for the very good presentation of the printer. Even this youtube video is already one year old, I just bought my vyper recently and I'm very happy with the functionality of the printer, but I have troubles with stringing and until now I didn't find a working cura profile to avoid it. Also prints with 0,2mm layer height looking not so good with my cura profile.Thanks for your effort to make this video.
Thank you for notifying me about the issue. My ender 3 pro keeps hitting runaway and it's not the thermistor. I just purchased an Anycubic Vyper as well, so I'll be on the lookout
Excellent review!!! I'm actually thinking of buying one today and I'm thankful I found your review. I just want to mention that this has been corrected from the manufacturer, I bought the Vyper a month a go and open it up to check this. All best!
When you say "this" has been corrected, do you mean the wire terminal block issue? How did AnyCubic fix it?
@@bnut1576 yes actually on mine the end of the wires are terminals.
@@angeleskidragan Thats great to hear! I have an E series Vyper (which I believe is their latest series), so its good to hear I wont have to worry about that issue.
The wire terminal problem - this likely happened because the ends of the wire are tinned. As they contact the internals of that green block, they only make contact at a few small points - where the hard solder on the strands touches the hard terminals. The resistance is concentrated here and thus the point of the power creation, so it gets hot. You can solve this by clipping the tinned ends off the wire (do this very carefully and don't let any strands fall on the board). Strip them back a little bit and twist the strands together slightly, then put them back in the block and crank them down. This will create more surface area of the wire touching the internals of the block.
Great video with so many details. Ordered a vyper. Think to change the fans due to noise.
Thank you so much i am a first timer well im a retired master machinists so i know code but thats it i worked for Lockheed when these were running under a oil os some liquid and the print took days i thought then damm this is way over my head. I thank you for your knowledge and will be watching
i prefer USB-B on mechanical gear, it just feels more solid and i have never had a semi broken unreliable usb-b, but tons of flaky micro usb cables, probably due to previous mechanical stress.
"Sounds" like that one motor is bad and why it is not silent. None of mine make a sound. Also, check to make sure nothing is slightly loose or rubbing you the wrong way in regards to that one y motor.
As one responder mentioned, always cut off tinned ends and reinsert it with bare tightened wire if you have no other choice. That small amount should still give you enough wire.
Cheers
thanks for the well structured and thought through review!
Thanks. I just purchased one. Let's see how it goes
Hello, I just returned a Ender 6 corexy. It was defective out the box, I did not want to play guessing games with Creality in trying to find out what was wrong with it, but they insisted. The issue I had was banging of the extruder against the rail. After troubleshooting, people and creality suggested it was the stopper, so i switch it out, and nothing changed. so creality sent me an adapter board, that too didnt fix the issue, at this point, a month had passed after getting it in the mail, and going back and forth with the company asking for a replacement machine, they again, persisted they would send parts. I dont know about you guys, but I value my time, even if its a learning experience with learning a DIY machine, if I purchase something, especially if its over 500 dollars, and it cannot at least function the bare minimal of what it was advertised to do because of a hardware malfunction (not because of a required minor adjustment), I would expect a replacement machine without any questions. All I did was follow the directions to a T, no added modifications etc, I even made sure the firmware was updated; nothing changed. So despite showing creality what their machine was doing, and asking that they just replace the machine, what do they do? Ask me if a roll of filament would suffice for the troubles I had been going through. Right, send me filament for the broken machine you refuse to just replace. So at this point, I just said screw it, I didnt want a replacement, I just wanted my money back, went through the Paypal team, basically got it resolved with some issues... Creality didnt want to come forward with a shipping label as they just gave me an warehouse address to deliver to, so i had to suck it up and send it back which cost me 100 dollars to send from where I live to TX. I will not be dealing with creality ever again. I dont care how much i see their products, it doesnt mean squat to me if their customer service for brand new customers is a band-aid approach while wasting their customer's time and money for nearly 2 months.
Excellent video! Thank you so much!
Excellent review, I will take the plunge and buy one, thank you
Thank you so much for the review. Time to buy some ferrules!
It’s been in my experience when dealing with wiring that carries a lot of current you had to be mindful simply putting a Farrell on a connector it’s simply moving the problem further down the line a better bet would be to trim the wires re-tin with Old school 50-50 solder making sure to clean all the flux completely and then coat them with A compound sold at electrical suppliers to prevent corrosion of the two unlike metals The problem also could be a lot of wiring used in China is copper coated aluminum which causes its share of problems also when you trim the ends you could see if they are using solid copper for their wiring many times they sneak aluminum wiring into electrical devices and pass it off as copper bad idea. The 50-50 Sauter provides a better connection when the set screws clamp down on it it’s much denser and harder than leadfree solder because it contains tin Leadfree solder is extremely soft. And should never be used on anything that’s not directly board related.
Excellent video. Very informative, Thank you very much.
Can you share your current slicer profile that you're printing these with? I have a vyper and I'm nowhere near that quality
I'm assuming you use cura
Look for zombie3d vyper profiles, they are great and just need you to adjust your flow rate (or just set it to 100%)
You could dolder the leads direct to the mother board.
Heat problem solved.
But
Thst eould mesn you would have to remove the terminal block. Easy for some but not everyone wants to ho through that. Lol
Great video
Great honest review
Thank you
My basement looks just like yours,
I was think about bringing my printers do to it. How do you handle the humidity?
Thank you
Thank you, are you going to compare the viper to the kobra?
@Andrew W where did you get the spoll holder for your viper? I checked Anycubic's site and didn't see anything there.
Oh its actually on Amazon :)
Mine ran great for 3 months then had issues with clogging. Installed a new factory hotend and cleaned the extruder box, now I can't lay a decent first layer or brim. Been using the same filament and temperature settings the whole time.
What would be the best 3D printer for $500 or under? I have an old Ender 3 and it's slow. It doesn't have any auto-leveling. I want something that's a noticeable step up.
Not the Vyper lol
@@Nirinium the vyper is great
@@tombeardy4833 It has potential to be a good printer, nowhere near great. One major design flaw. Strain gauge fork used for ABL, Anycubic has replaced more of these strain gauges and entire hotend assemblies than they have sold printers. Even the D and newest E revision (serial numbers) have the support that prevents hotend from bending left and right does very little in preserving the strain gauge assembly. Don't even get me started on the printers with the TriGorilla mainboard revision that is experiencing thermal runaway literally starting fires in peoples homes. I own four of the Vypers, and trust me I wanted to believe in them and I recommended them to so many people, only to be made to look like a fool. Every Vyper of mine but one has had some sort of major issue.
I assume you are unaware of these two common issues I have mentioned, and I totally understand if that's the case.
Although I respect your opinion, I respectfully disagree with "the vyper is great" and so do many others.
As general accepted best practice, a wire going into a terminal block should have a bootlace ferrule. Acceptable is just a twisted bare wire. A tinned bare wire is least desirable or reliable.
This guy took the mancave idea to another level...
I've had this printer for a few months and I have long print fails. I'm afraid to print anything over 5 hours. It keeps happening. The changed my settings, I emailed the company. They gave me a replacement motor for the extruder, but it still has long print fails. I don't know what's wrong with my printer. Smh
I just made the AV my 7th 3d printer. My first printer was a FlashForge Dreamer (the same printer that Dremel sold under their brand) but since then all my printers have been resin. So this is my 2nd filament printer.
Just to clarify, the problem you had was the filament being on the side, right?
I got the Vyper for Christmas. Messed with it for two months and haven’t got a successful print yet. I got annoyed in early mid march messing with this thing and set it aside. I think if I could get it sorted out, I’d really like it. Customer service is pretty good about getting back to you but I hate that it brand new and have to go through all this headache. Something with the auto leveling and everything says it’s the sensor. They sent a whole new print head unit but didn’t resolve it. Now they’re saying it’s a software update issue. Really wanted to like this printer. Going to get back at it I guess and see what I can do. Frustrating though for sure.
With every printer you need good settings and good filament. Even my firstprint was realy good^^
@@tombeardy4833 yeah. I know that. This one won’t work at all. Can’t get past the start up menu. There’s something mechanically or in the software. Still trying to work through it. I work a lot so it’s hard to find the time to deal with it. It’s literally brand new and hasn’t worked since I got it. Trying all the things they suggest as I have time. Wish I could just return it at this point.
Been running my Ender3 for 4 years now with minimal issues over the years. Mostly maintenance.
I got my Vyper about a week now, the first test print (The Owl in the SD card) came out outstanding impressively beautiful and detailed.
Then, I tried one of my models without luck. I used the Cura Profile in the SD, downloaded several profiles and make my own, every time I sent to print it try to print out the bed, just in the homing corner and the Z axis to low. PLEASE HELP ME. I'm new to 3D printing....
@@hericperez auto level worked?
I got my Vyper about a week now, the first test print (The Owl in the SD card) came out outstanding impressively beautiful and detailed.
Then, I tried one of my models without luck. I used the Cura Profile in the SD, downloaded several profiles and make my own, every time I sent to print it try to print out the bed, just in the homing corner and the Z axis to low. PLEASE HELP ME. I'm new to 3D printing....
Did you solve your problem?
I know its 8 months later so you may have figured out the issue but in case you have not:
I had the same issues with my Vyper. I couldnt get anything to print without bad stringing, artifacts, etc.
I was at my wits end, when I decided to try slicing in PrusaSlicer instead of Cura. Boom. All of my prints came out almost perfect. If you happen to still be fighting print quality issues, try slicing in Prusa
2 prints have now failed me cause of the side mount filament... print a top mount is a must do. and angle thingy for spool/filament censor.
when the print gets to high it strains the side mount spool and will mess up the prints... cost me 4+ days of a big 2 prints. Not happy.
also don't run it in a box the heat creep will get bad unless u like in Canada or in a shed then you may need it.
I have never tried turing heat bed off butt I disagree as some prints evven with skirts have delaminated for me, glue can fix this tho.
I've had my Vyper for 4 months its so close to been booted out the door. Watched all these reviews saying how good it is but its just more trouble than its worth. I had to get a new extruder and hot end assembly from Anycubic as they were both faulty. And setting OMG this thing is a picky as some women (sry ladys) every print it needs adjusting. My two Enders never had these problems. I just bought the Kobra Max now I'm hopping it doesn't have the same issues.
please share a link to the spool top mount for the vyper
thanks
on all printers pull and cut off the end of wire past the tined and twist put back in on all power wires at lest
What camera do you use for Octolapse?
ok so can you not remove those wires, splice a new solid wire on them and fix that issue?
"Intepented z-Axis movements"? How is that possible with only one stepper driver for Z-Axis on the motherboard?
At what settings did you print the benchy?
Hi umm this is my first 3d printer and i am unable to print test print owl. You say in the review that it is in the wrong file. When i try to print the screen turns off
what settings did you use i just got one
i can get a ender 3 v2 with auto level for 360 or a vyper for 416 aud is it worth me spending more?
Whant to by this model, thanx for video.
Good video
Can you upload the .stl of your cat?
I disagree with you on the fact that the Ender 3 version 2 would be a better first printer. I got in a 3D printing a month ago. And for somebody that knew absolutely zero about 3D printing. I purchased the Ender 3 version 2 because of the Amazon reviews and the amount that were sold. People that are new to 3D printing like myself for the time knew nothing about x y axis, g-codes, slicers, I mean it's a whole new world. And there is quite a bit to learn. I personally have fun through this process as I have numerous hobbies and I used to do electrical engineering. With that said I did run into quite a few issues the first five days with bed leveling. If if you like myself don't know anybody that has a 3D printer to give you one-on-one assistance you have to resort to TH-cam videos. The TH-cam video that I found for bed leveling came with some g-codes. And in a way they were flawed and caused me to have user error over the first five days. Once I got a decent G-code from CHEP at his channel.. it really helped. But the whole fact that it took me an hour to put the machine together and it took me 5 days to get a good print. And you got to understand I have an engineering background. I would think that the majority of your average users would have difficulty. And of course they do. I also purchased the any cubic Viper and it literally took me 5 minutes to put it together and on top of that it has all the major upgrades that you would have to spend an additional $200 for with the Ender 3 version 2. So with that said oh, I do love both printers. But if I had to go back in time I would have picked the anycubic vyper to be my first printer out of the box. Also if it's just somebody that's a hobbyist and wants to print a few things on the weekend the any cubic Viper is definitely better. Now if you like to Tinker installed her and upgrade your printer little by little by little by little then I think the Ender 3 version 2 is definitely better. The next freighter on my list is the Ender 3 S1 PRO.. That is what I really wished I started with. It has the best features out of the majority of printers today plus it also has the ability to heat to 300 degrees Celsius. In the end the purpose I got into 3D printing was to get into nylon carbon fiber filament.. and that printer will eat any plastic you feed it!! But I really loved this video and all the information you provided. Very informative and your channel is great!!
What are your Settings????? Please Show us your Settings! Your Prints look so beautyfull in compearoson to mine. Please Show us the Settings!
Has anyone had ghosting issues because of the way the hot end can flex on its strain gauge mount. I see the strain gauge led flicking on and off during printing. Btw it’s otherwise a great printer.
I think the USB type B is a far superior choice. It's much better mechanically. USB type C and micro USB are both too fragile (especially micro USB.)
Micro USB is garbage (durability wise), D is old but a much more solid connection. I'd prefer type C myself. Better yet wireless lol.
I think they decided to use this TypeB USB Cable because its a cheap shielded cable. There was a sentence in the instructions to be carefull while printing over the cable due to interference. Your normal USB-C or micro cables arent shielded.
Spooky basement... Great video otherwise. Thank you
Haha, 3D Print Dungeon
vyper的打印质量很差，外壁经常出现挤出不足的问题。
Overpaid if you went to Amazon they are $329 on eBay currently
$429 on Amazon
Just an awful printer