Fine Tuning Retractions And Coasting With ideaMaker
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ส.ค. 2020
- Ideamaker Profile Generation Tool: www.ideamaker.io/
You can get your Ender 3 V2 Here: geni.us/Ender3V2BG
Should you wish to support me, you can do so via:
Patreon: / 3dmakernoob
paypal: www.paypal.me/jcasha
Want to send me something? go ahead (Normal mail as courier packages get returned):
Attn: Joseph Casha
P.O. Box 12
Constitution Street,
Mosta, MST 9059
Malta
Europe
-----------
✌✌Affiliate Links ✌✌
Matterhackers: geni.us/MH3DMN
Amazon International: geni.us/3DMNoob
Gearbest: geni.us/3DMNGB
Banggood: geni.us/3DMNBG
Aliexpress: geni.us/3DMNAE
Recording Equipment:
Main Camera: Panasonic Lumix G7: geni.us/LumixG7
(B-Roll) Canon EOS760D: geni.us/CanonEOS
Canon EF 10-18mm: geni.us/CanonEF1018
Canon Lens: geni.us/Canon2470
ElGato Stream Deck: geni.us/Streamdeck
Elgato HD60S Capture Card: geni.us/elgatohd60
Timelapse - GoPro Hero 5: geni.us/GoProH5
Microphone, Rode Filmmaker Kit: geni.us/RodeFMkit
Light Boxes: geni.us/StudioLights
High Speed SD Card: geni.us/SandiskSD - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks for making this video series Joe. I've been using IdeaMaker for about 18 months and it's always good to learn some new tricks.
Wow that is a nice way to test different print parameters.
Thanks, your series made me give Ideamaker a try and so far I'm liking it! More options to tune the profile than Prusaslicer, without the insanity of customization that is Cura.
Well, done, sir - I just got an Ender 3 Pro V2 and your vids are really helpful. Just by showing how you use IdeaMaker helps me see what the features are. I now get what sequential printing and groups are used for - lots of control.
Very nice video. Thorough and fluid way of understanding
I use wipe distance setting instead of coasting and extra with a great success because coasting and extra are very dependent from speed.
Hello mate, Please, can you tell us in a couple of words what did you do exactly with "wipe distance" setting to reduce the "seam" ... Thank You
In Cura, you can choose seam option “Random” to randomise the starting point at each layer so that there’s no seam line at all, or “Sharpest corner” to make the seam less visible if there’s a sharp corner to set it to (haven’t tried the latter yet). Optimising the print is still desirable, though. 😛
You can do this with ideamaker as well.
@@michaeldivincent9487 Great!
Thanks Joe for another great video
Great video as always 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Well done Joe.
One of the best in depth slicer setup videos I have seen. And you kept it all in understandable language! Thumbs up and 5 stars for this. It is better than I even expected from your previous tuning videos.
David
Thank you for the very kind words
3DMN Joe my words were well deserved by such a great video! I look forward to more of the same.
Having just achieved a good set up for my Ender 3 by following your advice, I now have to start again as I am currently fitting a Micro Swiss hot end and direct drive combo. I will certainly be staying with ideaMaker.
Keep safe.
David
Excellent and informative!
Thank you for this video Joe. I've been using ideaMaker for the last few months now, I print mostly functional models and parts, really impressed by its flexibility, way better designed than Prusa Slicer. I also like the simplicity of Repetier Host with Cura engine.
It just boggles my mind that you only have 65K subscribers! You produce some of the best videos on you tube! Thanks so much for sharing such valuable information!
Thank you for the very kind words. Unfortunately it is what it is, so I just have to make more content to reach the infamous 100,000 :)
Hi Joe, just another great video. Is there any way to force the starting point of each layer into the inside of the model just to avoid the line which is visible from first until top layer?
Will there be anything on the CNC Mill Toolhead and workflow for the E3D toolchanger anytime soon? (I’m not sure on availability, supply chains, and your personal schedule, just curious)
Hey Joe, what camera are you using for the nozzle? Any recommendations?
Thanks Joe, this is the video that i'm waiting for. Can you give us the profile setting for prusa slicer and S3d also??
Thanks. Wondering if you could point me to the right setting to avoid getting the guitar strings first layer, i played with 1st layer width but it didnt fix it (prusament asa on an e2)
This is fantastic. Thanks for the new videos. I got IdeaMaker 4.0.1. I'm coming back from S3D. My problem is my Ender 5 is Modified to Direct Drive. ;-)
Tried the profilemaker and already gave feedback to raise. This video was just what I needed to tune my tpu profile, thanks! Will you make a video on how to organise your profiles in IM? I see this is one of the first things new users struggle with the moment they start using IM.
for amazing top surface (PLA ESUN, Ender3, 0.4mm nozzle) try settings for top surface layer
0% cooling - 180C print temp -.top solid fill rate 125% - top solid extr. width perc.70% - top solid speed 30 mm/s
Great video. How does your nozzle-cam work and what type is it ? THX and go on !
Great help Joe however I can't help but feel, Not another slicer we need a one size fits all!
nice video! ill be checking out more of your stuff tomorrow! thanks.
Thank you
Thanks for this video, very good! Do you know if Ideamaker has a similar feature to Cura called "Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling"? Sometimes my hot end hits printed parts when I use Ideamaker.
I am abit confused about my ender 3pro machine regarding to the issue of seams. I am printing an open ends tube. Everytime the nozzle pushes the filament at the start of the seam, it's a bit under extrusion near the seam line. Those under extrusion area are the area after the seam line. That means after the nozzle retract and extrude again (this behavior forms the seam line), the under extrusion begins. This only happens after printing hours of the model, usually occurs at the top of the tube
Excellent video mate! Sorted my new QQS-Pro right out :) Subbed
Hey I love the content... do you think you could post your final result profile?
Hello, What camera and lens you used for showing your closeup? Thanks
Great Video! If Ideamaker would add an option to integrate the Chitu Preview Pictures would be amazing, as it stands right now I'll stick to Cura because of that.
Yay!
1:36 is this done in cropping in post, manual scanning back and forth, or some cnc camera control system. CRAZY good footage that i want to replicate once i do showcases/reviews/b roll for projects.
the camera is attached to the axis lol
Hi Joe, great video. My custom printer is producing zits on the curved surfaces only. What settings should I look at firsy?
Same exact settings. Zits are also the produced by the same settings, the difference is that they are not aligned because the start and end points are at random places
Cura doesn't have a coasting distance option, does it label this parameter as something else?
Can you not blend it in using random settings
What is the equivalent of Coasting distance in Cura?
Sorry Joe, one more question - will you be sharing your profile at all that you perfected in this video? would be nice to poke around in some of your other settings too? Steve.
How do i make the seam that nice line instead of random dots nearby eachohter
Thanks for the video Joe. I do want my prints to be the best they can be, but I have to admit I'll probably give up on that. First, I know you're intimately familiar with what settings change certain behaviors, but for me there are just so many options and it is very hard to know what they do. Second, the idea of doing this for every filament isn't practical for me because I have a whole bunch of different filaments and I don't see myself spending a hour or so creating a new profile each time I get a new one. Additionally, I don't think the cheap spools I buy have that high of quality control, so the profile would almost become spool specific. I'm really hoping that some day in the future we have some sort of AI feature that will help us dial in our printer profiles semi-automatically. For example you could have a series of test prints. Each one would have a different group of parameters you'd look for. You'd print them and then put in the results into a profile creator. Then after a couple rounds, the system would essentially be tuned. Until then, I guess I'm just going to be stuck with ok prints.
look for Pro Optimazer... it’s a test generator.
I work with 3d printing with focus in high quality I’m always tunning my profiles in my spare time for diferent nozzle sizes, materials, brands, layer highs and etc... What I feel is that with good quality brands is much easier to calibrate since it’s much more predictable. You should leave those super cheap brands cause the difference of value doesn’t pay the extra time troubleshotting it...
You should try to find good cost-efective brands. If you need some help tell me where do you live and I will do my best to help.. I’m following the industry since 2013... exclusivelly working with it. Happy printing! cheers, Fernando Gazzola / @3dSolid_br
@@Flagazz Dei uma olhada no seu instagram, parabéns pela qualidade das peças! Ganhou um seguidor :)
Hi Joe I am still struggling to avoid strings on my prints, if I print two pieces when printing the first one and jump to the second piece it does not retract leaving a string all the way to the beginning on second piece, any idea which parameter to modify?
Increase to 5mm Outer shell wipe distance? now I have it on 0.20mm
Thanks.
Hi persianas Blindco, are you brazilian? Tem diversas formas de reduzir o stringing... comece diminuindo a temperatura um pouco, outra possibilidade seria aumentar o coasting.. a terceira possibilidade é aumentar o travel speed, mas não muito pra não dar layer shift...
enfim, tudo depende da quantidade de stringing que está gerando pra passar o número da redução e de testes. Se depois de algumasntebtativa vc não conseguir eliminar (pequenas mudanças, não estrapole) tem grandes chances do seu filamento estar com umidade ou o flow alto demais por ajuste indevido nele ou nos e-steps. Muitas possibilidades... Abraço, Fernando Gazzola / 3dSolid
great footage and explanation! That seam still seems pretty obvious, do you consider your final result an acceptable seam?
If the end result is to have a clean seam, and also considering I used silver filament because it is the hardest to hide, I’d say this is as good as it can probably get for an aligned seam
im really liking ideamaker but i wish they had some sort quick lookup guide that explains what a settings is doing. You see an issue and know exactly the setting to adjust to rectify it, new users wont know these settings exist
My mono price mini select keeps stopping when it gets to the seam, please help
I think that with Pressure Advance (Klipper) or Linear Advance (Marlin), playing with coasting and extra retraction is no longer needed.
A note for those using linear advance: coasting is incompatible with linear advance
thkyou
my question is, why does it stop and restart in any givin position, can't they program that out to make a smooth transition?(get rid of the hesitation) my XYZ Davinci 2.0 has a much less seam, almost invisible and when i got my ender 3 pro it was terrible and very noticeable.
You can set it to random, seams occur when you specify the location of the start and end point which many do in order to have a completely clean area, such as for example the face of a busy.
Cool video buddy
Thank you :)
wheres the STL?
What is the model that you are doing your test prints with?
It’s a simply cylinder with a curved top edge
Duplicate the profile and attach them to the model in per model settings
Why do the slicers allways have to start and stop in a circle path? My cnc mill works it way to the final dia than gradually moves off the wall to leave a perfect circle with no bumbs. Can that be done in some way on a 3d printer?
you can possibly invert the orderin which the perimeters are printed, so basically print the outside first and work inwards. in this video i used a fixed start and end point for better tuning, however you can also have the start points at random places to show less
that's because cnc is a different process.. it can shave off partial widths.. whereas 3d printing you have a fixed width and is more difficult to get partial widths.. it can be done to some extend with coasting/wipe and maybe with a modified gcode to start with a thinner extrusion but it's not going to be accurate since you can't control the extrusion 100% every time as it's a matter of flowing a molten plastic.. just like trying to squeeze out icing from a piping tube.. some accuracy is possible but not exact like cnc.
that said.. the prints in this video are abysmal.. lol.. i don't know if that was intentional but i know and have seen that he can do much better.
Please more Video about IdeaMaker..
Do ya think you can post the profile you made in this video?
it is avaiable in Raise3d academy... ;)
I have an Ender 3, but my extruder and hotend is made by DyzeDesign.
I think ur wrong. For the top layer you should increase the flow rate, not the "extrusion width % "
and cura? xD
1st
:)
what do i win ? ;) hah
skip to the chase why are you taking so long to explane