You can try SKiLLSHARE for free at: skl.sh/MKR705 They offer tons of classes on creative, business and self-improvement topics, all in precise and to the point multi episode classes. This link is an affiliate link and if you decide to sign up for a plan it will support me with a bit of kickback! Skillshare is a great platform that has taught me a lot, so thanks for checking it out if you do!
@@JohnPaul-nm9jz all the basic photography classes and how to take pictures with your smartphone stuff. Illustration classes, especially the one by jazza. Some design classes, especially the ones about color harmony.
@@deejeh9494 AdMech: All systems are nominal and repairs are done... Space Marine: yeah she needs a paint job bad though. Admech: it does nothing for combat effectiveness... Space Marine: It still got nurgling guts and half the DNA of the Sector Imperialis on it bro!
Yeah I wish I could do chipping. Let's start with that. For now I can base coat. I think I can base coat. It covers. I covers well. Then I shade with a wash and then I highlight. Then I watch videos like these to see the vast universe of possibilities awaiting for me in the future :))
It's AMAZING that I can live in a time where I can have access to masteclass like this. I remember buying my 1st minis in the 90's and I had noone to ask or talked to about the techniques. amazing.
It looks good, but unrealistic. Seems you didn't get the point. Technically it looks great but shape and position of most of the chips were just unnatural.
luke d'amato it really is the difference between the layman versus a professional. You see it as just fine ( and nothing wrong with that ) but an artist is always seeing what is wrong with what they do. This is the way we improve, by constantly seeing what is wrong we strive to do even better.
@@StrCmdr If i ever want to make the point that my model has been coated in wall plaster, either lessen it's IR signature or to counter magnetic grenades, i think i will use this chipping style. Look closely at it. It works really well if you imagine that the drednaught is covered in a crust of white plaster that has chipped in big chunks to reveal naked metal metal underneath.
Trov, I really am gratefull that you exist. Your humor in the vids, the sheer quality and knowledge of your content (enhanced by your history as a teacher), ... The list goes on. I truly wish you the best in life. Thank you, M
When I was younger I built a lot of model cars I would get dents and scrapes by using heat. I would use a heat gun in certain areas and then take a wooden dowel and push areas in also did the same effect with pins to get scrapes and scratches. Dents I would do post primer pre paint. Scratches post paint. Also flatten tires. I used to run working l.e.d. head and tail lights. I got bored with making them look good so I started making junkyard cars and accident smashed cars. Two car accident scenes and cars smashed into trees. My local hobby town put several in the front window.
If you finish chipping your model by acrylic and find the lighter colour for chipping has desaturated things too much, or the contrast is a bit harsher than you intended. Try going over the scratched areas with an ink glaze the colour of your mid-tone. This re-saturates what might have been lost to the brighter tone, while also bringing both chipping highlight and mid-tone colour closer together. You can then always make another pass to exaggerate this further or come in with the chipping highlight colour again on selective high edge corners and other points you want to raise the exaggeration on.
Trov mentioned that this method didn't work so well on darker colours. All the best chipped models seem to be light. I'm going to try your method, which might help with it. I'm thinking it might help to replace the very dark central area of each chip with a metallic, which could then be glazed to adjust, or rust. I saw a GW painter do something similar on weathered black armour, with a grey chip surround.
Thanks for the tips. Haven’t got round to trying out chipping yet, I like the aesthetic but I’m worried I’ll mess up models that took me many days to paint! 😅
I understand that there is a current wave of more 'realistic' painting and it looks great when I see folks of your talent level do it. Since I came to Games Workshop in the early 90s though, I paint in a more clean bright cartoonish way. The thought of dabbing that sponge onto one of my finished Blood Bowl shoulder pads makes me cringe. 😬
Holy hell yes, why did that not occur to me before, best also to maybe even put in a tinge more paint on them suggesting that the sun has not yet started to bleach the paint (or however that gradual loss of saturation is called)
Thank you, this helps a lot. Struggled to get realistic weathering on my guardsmen shoulder pads in last project, I have some ideas now 🎉 someone mentioned this but id say again that were really blessed with such high quality professional content available for us at any time. If you put your mind to this its truly huge help to improve ongoing projects.
I totally appreciate not focussing on non-acrylic products. The ONLY non-acrylic stuff I was willing to get so far was a brown enamel wash for generic use, streaking grime for non-organic stuff like armor and slimy grime for organic, if I ever want to go a full grimdark route, but aside from that I'm going to stick to the tons of acrylics I have. This video will come in handy when I paint my first armiger knight (which I bought second hand and sadly only later found out didn't have the bottom torso plate that connects to the legs, so now I gotta build something first)
Another hugely useful video that I am sure I will make good use of in the future. One thing I have found is to collect a range of different foams, with different size 'bubbles', they are not all the same! Using two or three different sponges helps increase the randomness.
excellent! I had just decided that doing chipping and weathering is going to be how I paint all my mini's. I did my imperial knight with chipping and decided to do my necrons from indomius like this as well.
Thank you, until now I only had the perspective and information of the scale modeler crowd. It’s really interesting and enlightening to see what you can do with “just” acrylics.
After applying the darker color step of chipping you can highlight the bottom edges in darker section or use point highlights at the corners of chips using a white tone or metallic to give the illusion of 3-dimensional depth to the chip. Light would catch and reflect off the bottom lip of a gouge. The chips may also follow the gradient of the shading of the model by painting lighter scratches near the top or light source of the mini and darker scratches in the shadows or near the base.
Saw the title and said "Wait, this is not Kujo..." :P This was just great advice! And at least the sponge part should be doable quickly for your 60 cannon-fodder troops, with the more careful manual application for the few vehicles in your force :)
One thing that helped me, although perhaps it was a weird thought, was that I started taking note of vehicles in parking lots or around town; I would, without trying to look like too much of a weirdo or like I was trying to break into them lol, was note what various colored vehicles looked like when they would become worn and chipped. It is interesting to see the way the paint seemed to shift at the edges of where it would chip on a car, and either the plastic or metal underneath would become exposed. It helped me in determining what would look more natural for various colors.
4:34 after working in a factory and seeing scrapes etc, these lines made by moving the sponge look really accurate. I really like this look and it seems as if the model scraped against an enemy in battle or sustained some light damage
I can't disagree with the fact your painting skills are way better than doing the scrubbing technique. It's just that it doesn't look anything like the kind of chipping I see every day on painted metal in real life. Scrubbing comes closer, even if it's far from perfect, and I guess some would say that it's also way easier. Personally I'm still crap at either technique though, so I really shouldn't have any say on the matter. :D
worth pointing out the hairspray chipping showed on screen here is to represent a winter white wash, which is a temporary paint they'd put on tanks during the winter that would end up heavily chipping like this. If that's something you want for your army it may be still worth trying
The hairspray method is still worth trying in general. BUT people do it wrong and the chips end up looking out of scale and in the wrong places and weird shapes. It's always mentioned as an "easy" technique, when actually it's not that easy to make look good and realistic.
I just attempted chipping medium on some Genestealer Cults buggies. It seemed to take an age and I wasn't happy with the results, as it turned out a lot like the dreadnought in your video. I shall revert back to sponge and brush in future. Great video as always.
Great vid - i use the sponge technique to add contagion marks on my Death Guard units..I also use the sponge for scratch marks, works pretty well with some practice
I love realistic damage. I don’t do any corrosion as I feel that the materials used in armor from 30,000 years in the future wouldn’t rust. I also like to add some fresh looking panels without any damage as those would be new parts that were replaced between battles
Good video to mention PLASMO models, as some of the weathering and wear he applies really helps sell the illusion of actual combat systems - just that much more smaller. I wonder how he'd approach painting WH40k armor and machinery with no background in tabletop or lore? Would be interesting to see the result! Before I disappear into the warp: thank you for all your videos! They're really concise and helpful - I always have the feeling I leave with more than I came with.
After going through a bunch of comments and seeing a common question - revert to real life when thinking about chipping something that is painted metal. Chrome is a coating, so it chips to the underlying metal/primer coat (and usually comes off in flakes/chunks). Metal tends to corrode when the surface chips (the example image of the worn old car is a perfect example) Most armour has an undercoat/primer before the actual paint colour is applied (WW2 german armour had a red/brown primer for example), so it would go paint > lighter tone of paint > primer coat > metal > corrosion
I personally use a verry big dry brush and lightly touch the edges. That way i can remake the same look and build uit highlights too on other parts if i accidentally brush too far
First time seeing a video from you. Great video, but the part that earned my like and subscribe was the unexpected rubbing of paints on face. That was hysterical, lol! Awesome (and helpful) video!!!
This is really good advice but I had a random thought..... Why would we think that the coloring on advanced power armor, centuries ahead of current technology would weather like the paint on a 20th century automobile?
It doesn't have to be, I always took it as of how bad the state of technology has regressed to, but there are many different possible ways of showing off the degradation of future tech.
Well, there are chipping fluids that are much easier to learn than hairspray. When I started painting gasland cars and WWII tanks, I tried Vallejo's Chipping Medium and it's quite more easy than learning hairspray, its just get it wet and chip with different tools. Of course, it wont look good at first, and there is a caveat; if you paint more than one color they can mix, you can only chip one color coat at a time, but if you paint vehicles (not Marines or the sort) its a good method.
I would be happy to just have my smurfs look as clean as that one. Gotta work on my edge highlighting but earthquake hands. I'm thinking maybe some form of light dry brush might be better than spending literal days trying to edge highlight. This chipping technique could help hide some of the dry brush overbrush maybe,
If you have a dark base Color, you can use a lighter greay as second chipping color. If you have your Ultramarines Dreadnought prepared with light Blue scratches, you can then add a mid tone grey as the edge color. I dont like if the edge is too dark. It won't look like something metallic anymore.
This is a really good video, but I think it risks losing sight of just how stylized good 28mm miniature painting can be. Yes, these very fine pin scratches are certainly more realistic, and if everyone aspired to bring scale modelling conventions to Warhammer they would surely be the way forward. But I think the issue I take with this video is that... your White Scars dread actually looks amazing. Sure, if you sit down and really analyze how paint wear happens IRL maybe those big flakes of missing paint don't make that much sense. But visually they still scan as good weathering. I think this video shows some really good weathering tips, and definitely works as a A+ tutorial on how to execute on the realistic pin weathering you chose to demonstrate. I think what I take issue with is framing this as the *right* way to do chipping, with other simpler or stylized methods being apparently the *wrong* way.
Like your style of approach. So when I'm right. I did bought marines death company. They are black. So chipping color will be light grey or metallic? Can you give me advice? Greetings from The Netherlands.
Great vid. Thanks. Question about edging and chipping Space Marines. Given that ceramite is grayish white, should I edge and chip gray for deeper damage and scrapes? I'm still experimenting and guidance is always welcome.
This was awesome, could you add a rust colour onto metal highlight or would that be to much and more importantly at 4:25 are all the imperfections on the pillar done with paint?, between the cracks and gritty dust/dirt marks to rusted chain.. just amazing.
That ultramarine on the motorbike is very badass. Almost makes me want to buy and paint it. But I resist the urge of being sucked in to the Warhammer Universe. For now.
Two biggest mistakes with hairspray chipping are: 1) Trying to chip "proper" paint layer as if it was some "temporary" paint. For example it is ok to chip in a weird ways winter camo of of soviet tank of WW2 b/c that white "paint" was nothing more than just limewash lot of times applied either by the huge brush or just by "throwing" it right off the bucket (to reproduce even that you would use two layers of chipping). If you try to reproduce normal paint chipping being such aggressive doing hairspray at the best you are trying to represent something that spent few decades in the junkyard 2) Using the color you actually want to see for your "bottom" layer. This might work for some cases but lot of times your bottom layer needs to be adjusted for a better effect. For example all those winter camo T-34s are not painted in russian green as you would if you were doing "summer" versions. Those greens are way more brighter then they would even if you adjust the color brightness for the scale b/c otherwise that dark green would be too much contrast with the white so it would be perceived as black.
Awesome video (thank you). So what would you use for the interior chips on the dark blue? The light blue chips looked great but the larger ones lacked depth with nothing inside them. Feel like I'm missing something (may just be me being dim).
Great video and something I am starting to explore. Can I ask about chipping metallics themselves? For example a silver armoured Space Marine. The colour can seem light and so I was use Rhinox hide? On the other hand is might feel dark and so maybe I would use a lighter grey? I wonder how best to think about it?
I feel like what some folks in the comments miss about the difference between the two models in the thumbnail is that parts that are so badly weathered and damaged would be replaced or reinforced, rather than remaining fully exposed and rusting.
I must say Im not really a friend of using a different hue color for the chipping, like on that green bike, the aditional yellow in the "no-longer-scorpion-green" im my oppinion doesnt feel good, at least thinking on realistic materials, that is something very common on a more fantasy aproach where the minis almost look like they should be havin all kinds of colors posible to make them stand out... but for a darker/grimdark I think those should be based on the base color with black or white... The technique may be usefull, but under certain circunstances, for example when a color from other source is supposed to be transfered, like blood, oil, rust, even some kind of biomaterial, for example the bike almost looks like was hit by an acid or some kind of necron weaponry by how it changes the color. I think the most important things to get considered on chipping is "the amount of damage" and "what weapon did the damage" (or circunstance)... The second tell you the behaviour on the armor that received the damage... its not the same a ricochet bullet or object, than one based on heat, like a laser, an energy weapon or a flammer... this also talks about how the player will perceive the armor paint strengh, Vs how the metal behind will perform..(making a difference on the amount of silver used on the scratch) more silver means "weaker paint job" or "durable metal behind it" this works very well for ancient or very used equipment, where it looks like he passed a war, but actually not having important damages, like a fine craftmanship expected for that kind of armor"... otherwise you simple add more black, in form of burns, that may be superficial (over the armor paint) or deep (under the paint, so it is actually a hole, but with enough violence to not left the metal easily recognizable, but instead very dirty/uneven)* you can also mix both aproaches with both lvls of damage and swap em, based on the tipe or armor and "story" for example,for using the 4 types properly would be great for a space marine armor, that never was fully cleaned (maintenance) but that had multiple superficial fixes and still is used constantly.. like a perpetual crusade, there you could be having deep damage that was covered with new paint or dust/ at the same time you have new recent damage (more silver) while you have also old supericial damages (decoloring) plus new superficial damages (burns) also, if you invest time enough to create you own criteria on how strong must be having each piece of armor you can create differences... like a bullet that hits on a leg, but which mark meets the "clothing/joints cloth" of the armor, you should make that the joint suffered more in comparison with the plate... or for example, making less visible damage on pauldrons in comparison with a similar shot on an arm or a leg (as the shoulders are supposed to be stronger because are one of the biggest pieces, and with more thickness even if those would be made of the same material) *this is very recognizable with bullet holes... if you make a perfect circle that looks almost like has been sanded (the borders) has to be an OLD shoot, if you want a recent shot, you make the hole like a tear, with displaced material and burrs, where the contrast between paintjob and naked metal makes it more moticeable.
You can try SKiLLSHARE for free at: skl.sh/MKR705 They offer tons of classes on creative, business and self-improvement topics, all in precise and to the point multi episode classes. This link is an affiliate link and if you decide to sign up for a plan it will support me with a bit of kickback! Skillshare is a great platform that has taught me a lot, so thanks for checking it out if you do!
Do you mind recommending which Skillshare videos you've found that are valuable for the hobby?
@@JohnPaul-nm9jz all the basic photography classes and how to take pictures with your smartphone stuff. Illustration classes, especially the one by jazza. Some design classes, especially the ones about color harmony.
fools, just go and look how it happens and looks in real life, then copy what you see, are your really that stupid????????????????????
"sometimes the results just look terrible" Shows an example that's actually really well done.
Yeah I was about to say the same. I guess subtle chipping is in? I like the completely battle damaged look. It’s a all war all the time world…
@@OEFarredondo no time for repairs when there is only war
@@deejeh9494 AdMech: All systems are nominal and repairs are done...
Space Marine: yeah she needs a paint job bad though.
Admech: it does nothing for combat effectiveness...
Space Marine: It still got nurgling guts and half the DNA of the Sector Imperialis on it bro!
Yah. When I saw that. It tells me that he prefers a style over a different one. This is just his opinion which make the video useless.
@@ashlevrier miniature art is subjective but he’s won some Golden Demons so if that’s your aim too then his advice has value.
Me: *Looks at thumbnail*
Also me: "Both... Both is good."
I'd say it's a matter of taste and maybe a bit of depth/colour variation in that 'miserably failed' Dred ;)
Yeah I wish I could do chipping. Let's start with that.
For now I can base coat. I think I can base coat. It covers. I covers well. Then I shade with a wash and then I highlight.
Then I watch videos like these to see the vast universe of possibilities awaiting for me in the future :))
I've been skipping this video for months because I think the check mark photo in thumbnail looks worse than the crossed out one lol
I almost cried when he weathered the golden demon white dreadnought...
It's AMAZING that I can live in a time where I can have access to masteclass like this. I remember buying my 1st minis in the 90's and I had noone to ask or talked to about the techniques. amazing.
I really struggle with painting being colorblind, but this video helped me wrap my mind around weathering. Thank you very much.
....what's wrong with the dreadnought
The chipping looks pretty good
It looks good, but unrealistic. Seems you didn't get the point. Technically it looks great but shape and position of most of the chips were just unnatural.
luke d'amato it really is the difference between the layman versus a professional. You see it as just fine ( and nothing wrong with that ) but an artist is always seeing what is wrong with what they do. This is the way we improve, by constantly seeing what is wrong we strive to do even better.
@@VillainousMuse not to mention every mistake is easyier to spot since he did it himself
@@StrCmdr If i ever want to make the point that my model has been coated in wall plaster, either lessen it's IR signature or to counter magnetic grenades, i think i will use this chipping style. Look closely at it. It works really well if you imagine that the drednaught is covered in a crust of white plaster that has chipped in big chunks to reveal naked metal metal underneath.
@Gareth Did you watch the video? He explains it... *sigh*
Why did the "YIKES" example look good!?
Chipping like a potato... 🤔 I see what you did there!
PO TA TOES, mash em boil em
I... honestly got this channel confused with Kujo's until I hit play...
Trov, I really am gratefull that you exist. Your humor in the vids, the sheer quality and knowledge of your content (enhanced by your history as a teacher), ... The list goes on.
I truly wish you the best in life.
Thank you,
M
you had me at the 'affection' you showed your paints! good job!
When I was younger I built a lot of model cars I would get dents and scrapes by using heat. I would use a heat gun in certain areas and then take a wooden dowel and push areas in also did the same effect with pins to get scrapes and scratches. Dents I would do post primer pre paint. Scratches post paint. Also flatten tires. I used to run working l.e.d. head and tail lights. I got bored with making them look good so I started making junkyard cars and accident smashed cars. Two car accident scenes and cars smashed into trees. My local hobby town put several in the front window.
Weathering is mostly about being brave with a rough uneven sponge with just the right amount of paint..
And not overdoing it. With weathering it's best to stop earlier and add stuff than overdoing it
@@MrStatistx my first weathering was GW rhinox hide sponged onto Flashgitz yellow. It was nerve wracking but it tuned out ok.
I actually love both. The dread is fantastic...
If you finish chipping your model by acrylic and find the lighter colour for chipping has desaturated things too much, or the contrast is a bit harsher than you intended. Try going over the scratched areas with an ink glaze the colour of your mid-tone. This re-saturates what might have been lost to the brighter tone, while also bringing both chipping highlight and mid-tone colour closer together. You can then always make another pass to exaggerate this further or come in with the chipping highlight colour again on selective high edge corners and other points you want to raise the exaggeration on.
Trov mentioned that this method didn't work so well on darker colours. All the best chipped models seem to be light. I'm going to try your method, which might help with it. I'm thinking it might help to replace the very dark central area of each chip with a metallic, which could then be glazed to adjust, or rust. I saw a GW painter do something similar on weathered black armour, with a grey chip surround.
Thanks for the tips. Haven’t got round to trying out chipping yet, I like the aesthetic but I’m worried I’ll mess up models that took me many days to paint! 😅
if its a tank, always chip the bottom and places you're gonna cover in mud first. Gives you a chance to practice
Consider sealing the model before you do the chipping. Then, if you hate the result, you can more easily reset to the unchipped state.
Haha. All the precious paints. Nice bit of humour.
Great vid mate! As a mediocre painter, the sponge method is definitely the easiest to use and turns out pretty decent.
nice! thanks!
Brilliant advice. I think sometimes it’s tempting to do too much weathering the bike looked fantastic
Your first "yikes" example looks better than anything I can do.
I understand that there is a current wave of more 'realistic' painting and it looks great when I see folks of your talent level do it. Since I came to Games Workshop in the early 90s though, I paint in a more clean bright cartoonish way. The thought of dabbing that sponge onto one of my finished Blood Bowl shoulder pads makes me cringe. 😬
well, they are your minis, you should paint them the way you want ;)
best chipping video in a long time
So many great tips! Thank you so much Uncle Trovarion! :D
Leaving one or 2 panels in perfect condition suggests the panel(s) was/were damaged and replaced.
It can work very well if done correctly.
Holy hell yes, why did that not occur to me before, best also to maybe even put in a tinge more paint on them suggesting that the sun has not yet started to bleach the paint (or however that gradual loss of saturation is called)
I can't wait to get home and start painting! Thank you!
Thank you, this helps a lot. Struggled to get realistic weathering on my guardsmen shoulder pads in last project, I have some ideas now 🎉 someone mentioned this but id say again that were really blessed with such high quality professional content available for us at any time. If you put your mind to this its truly huge help to improve ongoing projects.
Have you done a video on your leather weathering technique? It looks really good.
I totally appreciate not focussing on non-acrylic products. The ONLY non-acrylic stuff I was willing to get so far was a brown enamel wash for generic use, streaking grime for non-organic stuff like armor and slimy grime for organic, if I ever want to go a full grimdark route, but aside from that I'm going to stick to the tons of acrylics I have.
This video will come in handy when I paint my first armiger knight (which I bought second hand and sadly only later found out didn't have the bottom torso plate that connects to the legs, so now I gotta build something first)
Another hugely useful video that I am sure I will make good use of in the future.
One thing I have found is to collect a range of different foams, with different size 'bubbles', they are not all the same! Using two or three different sponges helps increase the randomness.
Yes, that's indeed a good advice!
This was just what I needed. You're doing the Empror's work. Keep it up!
o7
excellent! I had just decided that doing chipping and weathering is going to be how I paint all my mini's. I did my imperial knight with chipping and decided to do my necrons from indomius like this as well.
Thank you, until now I only had the perspective and information of the scale modeler crowd. It’s really interesting and enlightening to see what you can do with “just” acrylics.
I really need to get a nice pointy brush for this. Thanks for the advices, it's helps alot!
Upvoted for the rubbing paint containers in face alone but the rest of the video was great and insightful too.
from 2022 here .. dude you've explained what I've been observing IRL and it makes more sense.
Probably the best and most complete explanation on this topic i saw so far. Good Work! :) Would love to see something similar on OSL.
Thanks a lot! There is some osl videos on the patreon!
Thank you so much for this video! I was looking for a good tutorial and found amazing one:)
After applying the darker color step of chipping you can highlight the bottom edges in darker section or use point highlights at the corners of chips using a white tone or metallic to give the illusion of 3-dimensional depth to the chip. Light would catch and reflect off the bottom lip of a gouge.
The chips may also follow the gradient of the shading of the model by painting lighter scratches near the top or light source of the mini and darker scratches in the shadows or near the base.
I feel like Unification Wars forgoten Thunder Warrior veteran, I use Humbrol enamels ONLY. Awsome job mate!
Nigthsift miniatures has some great videos about chipping too! Especially on his german tanks
Indeed! Adding to the shout out for Nightshift.
This is your best video title ever. Geat content too (as always).
Saw the title and said "Wait, this is not Kujo..." :P
This was just great advice! And at least the sponge part should be doable quickly for your 60 cannon-fodder troops, with the more careful manual application for the few vehicles in your force :)
One thing that helped me, although perhaps it was a weird thought, was that I started taking note of vehicles in parking lots or around town; I would, without trying to look like too much of a weirdo or like I was trying to break into them lol, was note what various colored vehicles looked like when they would become worn and chipped. It is interesting to see the way the paint seemed to shift at the edges of where it would chip on a car, and either the plastic or metal underneath would become exposed. It helped me in determining what would look more natural for various colors.
Great one! Thanks! Now I'll think about these nice, bright colour chips :)
excellent deconstruction of the techniques.
4:34 after working in a factory and seeing scrapes etc, these lines made by moving the sponge look really accurate. I really like this look and it seems as if the model scraped against an enemy in battle or sustained some light damage
I can't disagree with the fact your painting skills are way better than doing the scrubbing technique. It's just that it doesn't look anything like the kind of chipping I see every day on painted metal in real life. Scrubbing comes closer, even if it's far from perfect, and I guess some would say that it's also way easier.
Personally I'm still crap at either technique though, so I really shouldn't have any say on the matter. :D
it's worth noting theres a difference between the kind of chipping you'd get on something in service and something rotting in a field for 50 years
worth pointing out the hairspray chipping showed on screen here is to represent a winter white wash, which is a temporary paint they'd put on tanks during the winter that would end up heavily chipping like this.
If that's something you want for your army it may be still worth trying
The hairspray method is still worth trying in general. BUT people do it wrong and the chips end up looking out of scale and in the wrong places and weird shapes. It's always mentioned as an "easy" technique, when actually it's not that easy to make look good and realistic.
Thanks for the advice, currently working on Imperial Fists incredible paint theory as always!
Great tips. You've also massively levelled up your video production skills in the last year, good stuff dude.
thanks!
Awesome video as always man! Can’t wait for the corrosion one ;)
Great advice, especially re: the decals. It always looks really weird when the decals look prestine on a model that is weathered
Very nice effect. Thanks!
Thanks for all the great tips!
I just attempted chipping medium on some Genestealer Cults buggies. It seemed to take an age and I wasn't happy with the results, as it turned out a lot like the dreadnought in your video. I shall revert back to sponge and brush in future. Great video as always.
Great vid - i use the sponge technique to add contagion marks on my Death Guard units..I also use the sponge for scratch marks, works pretty well with some practice
Jeder fangt als Erdapfel an :D...Super Video, wieder was gelernt! ;)
I love realistic damage. I don’t do any corrosion as I feel that the materials used in armor from 30,000 years in the future wouldn’t rust. I also like to add some fresh looking panels without any damage as those would be new parts that were replaced between battles
Good video to mention PLASMO models, as some of the weathering and wear he applies really helps sell the illusion of actual combat systems - just that much more smaller.
I wonder how he'd approach painting WH40k armor and machinery with no background in tabletop or lore? Would be interesting to see the result!
Before I disappear into the warp: thank you for all your videos! They're really concise and helpful - I always have the feeling I leave with more than I came with.
Udemy commercial in a Skillshare sponsored free tutorial vid... thats my kind of humor :D Thanks for the great tutorial!
After going through a bunch of comments and seeing a common question - revert to real life when thinking about chipping something that is painted metal. Chrome is a coating, so it chips to the underlying metal/primer coat (and usually comes off in flakes/chunks). Metal tends to corrode when the surface chips (the example image of the worn old car is a perfect example)
Most armour has an undercoat/primer before the actual paint colour is applied (WW2 german armour had a red/brown primer for example), so it would go paint > lighter tone of paint > primer coat > metal > corrosion
I personally use a verry big dry brush and lightly touch the edges. That way i can remake the same look and build uit highlights too on other parts if i accidentally brush too far
another thing to think about is Dark chipping into a metallic grey or light rust
Wonderful, exactly the advice I needed!
First time seeing a video from you. Great video, but the part that earned my like and subscribe was the unexpected rubbing of paints on face. That was hysterical, lol! Awesome (and helpful) video!!!
Welcome aboard!
to the practice now ! nice explaination - thank you
on larger chips i sometimes use a combination of agrax earthshade and riekland flesh to make a sorta rust-dribble effect
Bloody hell they look good!
This is really good advice but I had a random thought.....
Why would we think that the coloring on advanced power armor, centuries ahead of current technology would weather like the paint on a 20th century automobile?
It doesn't have to be, I always took it as of how bad the state of technology has regressed to, but there are many different possible ways of showing off the degradation of future tech.
"stop chiping like potato".. hahaha
I always use some of you did it when I working with gunpla.
but this is nice tips, thanks for sharing.. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Well, there are chipping fluids that are much easier to learn than hairspray. When I started painting gasland cars and WWII tanks, I tried Vallejo's Chipping Medium and it's quite more easy than learning hairspray, its just get it wet and chip with different tools. Of course, it wont look good at first, and there is a caveat; if you paint more than one color they can mix, you can only chip one color coat at a time, but if you paint vehicles (not Marines or the sort) its a good method.
As always, very interesting, thanks for this content !
For the hairspray technique use a small amount on a flat varnish coat for smaller chips
Great video, thank you
I would be happy to just have my smurfs look as clean as that one. Gotta work on my edge highlighting but earthquake hands. I'm thinking maybe some form of light dry brush might be better than spending literal days trying to edge highlight. This chipping technique could help hide some of the dry brush overbrush maybe,
If you have a dark base Color, you can use a lighter greay as second chipping color.
If you have your Ultramarines Dreadnought prepared with light Blue scratches, you can then add a mid tone grey as the edge color.
I dont like if the edge is too dark. It won't look like something metallic anymore.
This is a really good video, but I think it risks losing sight of just how stylized good 28mm miniature painting can be. Yes, these very fine pin scratches are certainly more realistic, and if everyone aspired to bring scale modelling conventions to Warhammer they would surely be the way forward. But I think the issue I take with this video is that... your White Scars dread actually looks amazing. Sure, if you sit down and really analyze how paint wear happens IRL maybe those big flakes of missing paint don't make that much sense. But visually they still scan as good weathering.
I think this video shows some really good weathering tips, and definitely works as a A+ tutorial on how to execute on the realistic pin weathering you chose to demonstrate. I think what I take issue with is framing this as the *right* way to do chipping, with other simpler or stylized methods being apparently the *wrong* way.
Nice vid as usual, thanks! What would be a good (realistic) way to chip black paint for say, black templars?
Like your style of approach.
So when I'm right.
I did bought marines death company.
They are black.
So chipping color will be light grey or metallic?
Can you give me advice?
Greetings from The Netherlands.
damn
that leather looks so YUMMY
The dragged sponge effect looks very good IMO.
Very 'in scale'.
Yeah, sometimes you discover something interesting by trying to show how NOT to do it...haha
@@trovarion
Well.. you're talented anyway.
Why you gotta throw shade on potatoes like that, mate?
Great vid. Thanks. Question about edging and chipping Space Marines. Given that ceramite is grayish white, should I edge and chip gray for deeper damage and scrapes? I'm still experimenting and guidance is always welcome.
I mean... "should" you do it? Not if you don't like it visually. Can you do it? Of course. Only you can decide if you like the result, so just try it.
@@trovarion Thanks. Off to try stuff!
Thanks for this awesome video ✌️✨
This was awesome, could you add a rust colour onto metal highlight or would that be to much and more importantly at 4:25 are all the imperfections on the pillar done with paint?, between the cracks and gritty dust/dirt marks to rusted chain.. just amazing.
Use a 'dark' but WARM color for the chipping effect on dark blue surfaces.
That ultramarine on the motorbike is very badass. Almost makes me want to buy and paint it.
But I resist the urge of being sucked in to the Warhammer Universe. For now.
Damn Chris skillshare should be chasing you to put up masterclass mini painting video's.
Great video!
I see you painting a green bike Is there a video for that? Looks awesome!
No, it was only for this video
Very useful and informative vid
0:44 How is this bad? It's a bit excessive damage, but looks good to me.
random, no reality approach, he used a potatoe for the chipping effect duh xD
Two biggest mistakes with hairspray chipping are:
1) Trying to chip "proper" paint layer as if it was some "temporary" paint. For example it is ok to chip in a weird ways winter camo of of soviet tank of WW2 b/c that white "paint" was nothing more than just limewash lot of times applied either by the huge brush or just by "throwing" it right off the bucket (to reproduce even that you would use two layers of chipping). If you try to reproduce normal paint chipping being such aggressive doing hairspray at the best you are trying to represent something that spent few decades in the junkyard
2) Using the color you actually want to see for your "bottom" layer. This might work for some cases but lot of times your bottom layer needs to be adjusted for a better effect. For example all those winter camo T-34s are not painted in russian green as you would if you were doing "summer" versions. Those greens are way more brighter then they would even if you adjust the color brightness for the scale b/c otherwise that dark green would be too much contrast with the white so it would be perceived as black.
Awesome thank you.
Would you suggest using the same colour as you use to edge highlight with scratches or different? (Looking at your blood raven)
Awesome video (thank you).
So what would you use for the interior chips on the dark blue? The light blue chips looked great but the larger ones lacked depth with nothing inside them. Feel like I'm missing something (may just be me being dim).
Great video!! Love your channel!!
Great video and something I am starting to explore. Can I ask about chipping metallics themselves? For example a silver armoured Space Marine. The colour can seem light and so I was use Rhinox hide? On the other hand is might feel dark and so maybe I would use a lighter grey? I wonder how best to think about it?
I feel like what some folks in the comments miss about the difference between the two models in the thumbnail is that parts that are so badly weathered and damaged would be replaced or reinforced, rather than remaining fully exposed and rusting.
I must say Im not really a friend of using a different hue color for the chipping, like on that green bike, the aditional yellow in the "no-longer-scorpion-green" im my oppinion doesnt feel good, at least thinking on realistic materials, that is something very common on a more fantasy aproach where the minis almost look like they should be havin all kinds of colors posible to make them stand out... but for a darker/grimdark I think those should be based on the base color with black or white... The technique may be usefull, but under certain circunstances, for example when a color from other source is supposed to be transfered, like blood, oil, rust, even some kind of biomaterial, for example the bike almost looks like was hit by an acid or some kind of necron weaponry by how it changes the color.
I think the most important things to get considered on chipping is "the amount of damage" and "what weapon did the damage" (or circunstance)...
The second tell you the behaviour on the armor that received the damage... its not the same a ricochet bullet or object, than one based on heat, like a laser, an energy weapon or a flammer... this also talks about how the player will perceive the armor paint strengh, Vs how the metal behind will perform..(making a difference on the amount of silver used on the scratch) more silver means "weaker paint job" or "durable metal behind it" this works very well for ancient or very used equipment, where it looks like he passed a war, but actually not having important damages, like a fine craftmanship expected for that kind of armor"... otherwise you simple add more black, in form of burns, that may be superficial (over the armor paint) or deep (under the paint, so it is actually a hole, but with enough violence to not left the metal easily recognizable, but instead very dirty/uneven)*
you can also mix both aproaches with both lvls of damage and swap em, based on the tipe or armor and "story" for example,for using the 4 types properly would be great for a space marine armor, that never was fully cleaned (maintenance) but that had multiple superficial fixes and still is used constantly.. like a perpetual crusade, there you could be having deep damage that was covered with new paint or dust/ at the same time you have new recent damage (more silver) while you have also old supericial damages (decoloring) plus new superficial damages (burns) also, if you invest time enough to create you own criteria on how strong must be having each piece of armor you can create differences... like a bullet that hits on a leg, but which mark meets the "clothing/joints cloth" of the armor, you should make that the joint suffered more in comparison with the plate... or for example, making less visible damage on pauldrons in comparison with a similar shot on an arm or a leg (as the shoulders are supposed to be stronger because are one of the biggest pieces, and with more thickness even if those would be made of the same material)
*this is very recognizable with bullet holes... if you make a perfect circle that looks almost like has been sanded (the borders) has to be an OLD shoot, if you want a recent shot, you make the hole like a tear, with displaced material and burrs, where the contrast between paintjob and naked metal makes it more moticeable.