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BONDO SHAPING PERFECTION WITH THE BLADE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2014
- www.exactlineto...
Perfect results, perfectly shaped panels. Using The Blade you will get BETTER and STRAIGHTER panels than right from the factory, rolling off the assembly line. This unique crisscross method assures you will get the BEST results on every repair. Get The Blade!
www.exactlinetools.com
This man has awesome spreading skills, my bondo never stays pliable for that long
It’s because he has little hardener in it.
@@deeznutzz8375 😂
I don’t think there is any harder on it
@@deeznutzz8375 The problem with too little hardener is the edges don't set and then the edge can peal when sanding. However theres special types of bondo you can buy that sets even slower and theres also retardants to add that slow it setting. A product called 'Liquid Honey' can make it runny for horizontal bonnets and roofs.
First batch I mixed up dryed up before I could apply it😂😂😂😂😂
Whether correct procedure or not, I LOVE the way you have mixed good narration into your video.
Your voice recording is very clear. I wish other bloggers would take the time to make better audio recordings for their videos. Thanks.
I haven't laughed this hard in years. So much additional work has been caused here it's hilarious.
You don't do bondo work.
@@unicornwolfteam718 Lol, this job is amateur level bro.
This is what I call professionalism!! Few can appreciate how good this is!!
BB Productoins Thank you. We appreciate your kind comment.
Me too I agree with your skills
He did bodywork on my car,and i won first place at Nostalgic Nights in Monterey for best paint job.
And then a week later, all the Bondo fell off because it was applied over paint!!!
Negative idiots always lurking...keep your comments in your pocket...the guy is attempting to help those that need help...use his expertise and add your for the perfect outcome..ever think of that?
@@ChrisBusy
No he has no clue what he’s doing all he’s trying to do is flog his crap blades of this guy is an absolute joke.
Been working in car body repair for more than 30yrs, also been doing some construction/roofing over that time and this blade idea has been in plastering since taper edge plasterboard arrived in construction, skills i use in bondo/filler has made it easy for me to skim and plaster in construction but never used a blade in car body, will have to try it.
We NEVER know it all 👀
I've been repairing body panels for 50 years in Scotland. Your repair technique and patience are brilliant. Patience is the key, if your not sure of the finish, check and check again. Perfect preparation prevents piss poor performance. Mistakes will show up in the finished lacquered coat. Then its too late. Robert Wood, Rothesay, Scotland. 72 years young and still filling.
Awesome u know as good as anybody old school .....we can pick anybody's work but our owns the hardest....
What can you say to the guy below you with 30 years experience and the opposite perspective?
Lacquer? who uses it and where can you get it no one and nowhere last time i sprayed it was 1986 i call BS
Great to see a craftsman at work - thank you for sharing.
I've used a metal yard stick cut in half before on large fill areas. Worked great.
I was thinking of doing that exact same thing for something else (not body repair-I’d be way too scared to attempt that!) ...or possibly one of my husband’s old metal real estate signs (not the big main sign...just one of those Little add-on’s. It’s roughly a 20”x 9” rectangle or so..). It would def.work for what I’m using it for. Just use tin snips to cut it to the length/width you need (if necessary). I like that It’s rigid on the straight edge, but still flexible long-ways so you can get a nice curved shape and feathered edges. All-in-all I really appreciated this video- I don’t know [really anything] about body work...so maybe all these rude know-it-all’s know something I don’t, but the end result was stunning (!!) sooo - I guess he did “something” right! Lol! Half of them apparently didn’t pass English class by the looks of their GRAMMAR...😂 Perhaps they’d consider not sounding so stinking *ignorant* as they judge this nice man who took the time to make this video. People are just so rude, I swear. Alright- my two cents have been added, for all it was worth!
If you can get really good results with minimal sanding and only using 150 grit, you're doing something right. There's a lot of things to be appreciated from this video. A lot of time blocking, sandpaper and filler not wasted by persistent overlap. Good job.
NO
I have done novice body work over the last 30 years and never done it this way. My first attempt was a disaster. Bought a few good books, asked some dumb questions from friends and associates and practiced. Don’t know if I could ever be called an expert but have had some pretty good success. I would like to ask some of you guys if you have any videos on TH-cam to help me even more? I can’t knock this guy because he has really given good visual information. Thanks Guy’s.
I've bought this product. And use it some times when I have large areas that need filler to be applied. Mostly used and tested on the 56 chevy body as it curves a great deal and is far from straight anywhere. But using most tools is a learned skill as well as anything else. Instead of those of you commenting on something you've never used and leaving negative comments, why not hold your tongue until you've tried it yourself? How can someone even consider leaving a negative remark when not using this product? I don't get it! And yes you can use a DA to help speed the process if you know what you are doing. If you do use a DA and use it wisely, it saves lots of sanding by hand for sure. If you don't use it the right way, well, you can keep adding filler for days to come!
Rick Bell Thanks, Rick 👍
Great piece of wisdom there.
Too much pride and ego from people.
Go to Home Depot or Lowes and by a "CHEAP" Aluminum Ruler and make your own tool!
thats what did i do when i start doing this job after a while you will not need to.
Thats a ton of filler dont yall think?
Lot of negative comments from people without videos. The job turned out great and he wasn’t in a hurry. That’s what matters, and yes bondo goes over paint.
Those who can do, do. Those who cant do, teach. And this guy is teaching the completely wrong process. That's why hes getting comments. Look down the side when done. It will look like the ocean. Grab your surfboard
The negative comments are because this is beginner crap so yeah if you are a DIYer wanting to fix your wifes minivan in the garage..great video. But anyone who has done bodywork will attest that his method adds work when he thinks its a better way to do it.
No Gene, bondo does NOT go over paint.
Great video!
Not a waste of material at all. It repair takes as long as it takes. obviously within reason but I'm a perfectionist so I can respect the time put into that repair to get it straight.
I do my repairs the exact same way. I find its the only way that gets me the transition from panel to panel to my satisfaction.
I'm going to get at my supplier and buy one of those blades! What a time saver.
Take care.
Made a project out of a couple dents , because in this days ,the so called body Tech's ,don't know the dynamics of working the sheet metal , I could up fix them up without hardly any Bondo .
Look at the finished product. Its like glass. I see a lot of people knocking the guys technique, and I myself have been doing this for years with flawless results, I do it a little different than this guy myself, but the important thing is to do what works for you.
yeah I agree...most comments are from newbies. He gave a hard example and I think he does a lot of restoration work where you can't get panels and have to fix them. Id buy a new door skin at my shop on that repair but its for DEMO purposes. On Bedsides where the customer wants it fixed and wants to save a grand on a panel and its a work truck., that is where this tool works.
Never seen Bondo stay liquid for so long 😂, the blade acts like a leveler so that's a really good idea . Another for the tool bag boys !
Almost no harder .
Takes a long time to dry to where you can sand it . Even with a heat lamp .
I bet UV Filler would work well. It gets hard when you put an UV lamp on it
@@danmort154 thats what the sheila said to the sailor...lol.
@@ronjohnstonaustralia2417 That's a Chinese proverb...lol
I got your tool bag!!!
Well done man. Alot of haters here. End product across the door gap was stellar. The voice and editing was spot on. Don't let the haters get you down, cause haters always gonna hate.
Michael Smith THANK YOU!!
I can't understand why there would be haters?
Obviously you have no idea what real bodywork is all about. There is no way that the mud wouldn’t harden up in that amount of time applying it over and over. All that working and reapplying would create air bubbles. There is no time saving in this at all. That blade doesn’t make it straight. Sanding with a flat surface makes it straight. This is a joke.
No hater but not thel most efficient way to get this done .
@@dawinner777 You simply use less hardener... and what air bubbles are you seeing? Maybe if you're using inferior *Bondo* brand
Excellent job. Very impressed with the craftsmanship. Not many panel beaters would take so much care.
..lol
Narrator/body man so patient explaining every move with clarity and detail
Dont apply bondo over sanded paint ...
What 3M Said
I have heard both opinions of this for years, but no concrete data. About one year ago I visited the 3M headquarters in St. Paul, Minnesota. While in their lab I asked this exact question. They said that body filler should not be applied over sanded paint. They said that this can cause repair mapping. It was explained to me that many technicians mistake this for sand scratch swelling or primer shrinking. When in fact, the chemicals in the filler can react with the layers of paint coatings causing them to swell or look a look like a shrinking problem.
Thank you for your thoughtful, well written comment. It is coincidental that we were discussing this very issue the same day that your comment was posted. First we need to clarify exactly what you are referring to when you say “bondo”. Bondo is a specific product that has become a generic term for any polyester based body filler. In my experience in talking with a large number of auto body techs as well as my own experience with auto body repairs and restorations I have discovered that mixing a glazing putty with the filler, in varying ratios, (I can thicken up the glazing putty or thin down the filler depending on the repair), yields the best results and performance overall. In fact, 3M’s Platinum™ Plus Glaze states on the label, “a super premium, pourable polyester finishing glaze that provides excellent results on galvanized steel, aluminum, zinc-coated metals, SMC, and cured primer and paint. This stain free, tack free formula has superior spreadability and is super-easy to sand. Use for handling cracks, drags, hail-damage, pinholes, and full panel contouring.” Another product that is designed to mix the two products together (filler and glazing putty) is the Metal Works™system made by Evercoat. Evercoat states that this is an inter-mixable system that works together extremely well. In my many years of experience of repairs and restorations I have not had any problems with paint failure or “mapping” with mixing these two products, the filler and a glazing putty. I encourage anyone to do some research and use what you are comfortable with. I also encourage any questions regarding this issue. Ultimately find what works best for you and build your reputation on that.
Adam Maxwell In other way primer or old paint under body filler gives us better anti corrosion protection.
Adam Maxwell Actually you are completely wrong. I have the printed data from OEM and bondo is not to be applied over bare metal. Very few ,in fact only a couple plastic fillers have proper corrosion protection. Bare metal should be etched and epoxy primer placed over it. Most all plastic repair products are Polyester based today and it is perfectly accepted and recommended to go over OEM finish. If its been refinished it should be stripped and epoxy coated . Mercedes MAster tech of 35 years.
Substrates for Spectral putties -> spectral.pl/en/karty_t/en_ST_S_SOFT_LIGHT.pdf
I agree with Michael , so many " know it all's" get stuck with their own way ....why can't any material be compatable just like paints and primers ... As long as the " substrate is sound and been there for years and cured etc it's fine... However most good body guys I follow and learned from always apply to bare metal too ... The bondo won't get wet from behind unless he metal is Swiss cheese .... It's been done for years who cares if a company doesn't recommend it .... Every cock ring company wants to sell their brand and stuff u don't always need....
More than one way to skin a cat as they say.... Half today's cars are garbage in 10 years anyway and if your doing something nice, it will hardly ever see rain ! THE END
Just my observation on real world body work
Excellent! Learned a lot. Thanks for sharing your skilled hard work.
this tutorial was way ahead of its time - so many times and effort saving tricks and tips
How did you mix that Bondo mine would have been hard and impossible to work with by now
pea to a golf ball
It was cold. If it were in warmer weather or conditions, this method wouldnt have worked the same at this rate.
@@kathryncastanares525 Um yes it would, you use less hardener
I've been in the field for 30+ years. It all comes down to the customer. perfection =$$$$. I actually like the technique but I know that'll only work during cold weather. try that at 80+ degrees(100+ in southwest) and you're screwed. For the record, an open mind will keep you fresh with technology
Yah cold in there look at his hat.
whatever works, its the end results that matter! Take no criticism seriously..Ive seen people have & develop their own style at different trades.
Thanks for this tip BTW.
This is a joke. No time saving at all! He’s trying to sell something that doesn’t work and has no advantage at all.
Thanks for show us your years of experience. To a new guy it's a nice insight of what has to be done.
Don't listen to any of the old farts. Just cause you did something 30 years doesn't mean your good.
Done with integrity very professional workmanship thanks for sharing
spends 10 minutes applying filler and still has high spots, this tool is the ideal solution to a problem that doesn't exist, please get some technical training
You can use an aluminum yard stick to do the same thing.
Didn't know you could bondo over the guide coat powder low spot stain. Good tutorial. 👍
Dragging from top down causes filler on spreader to run into your hand. Always drag from bottom to top
😂 preference
this was a very good video very good presentation very easy to understand thank you
You have given me an idea for a new spreader. Thanks.
You are suppose to remove the guide coat that is left because filler doesn't stick to it well. That's why you outline it with a pencil...it identifies the low spots after you remove the guide coat.
Hmmm 👀
Well you’re supposed to put plastic body filler over bare metal only but here we are.
@@jamessharp9790 not true
@@censoredbyyoutube3099 I’m out of date - it was true in my era
Your comments at the end sum it up. Production shops make it look factory. You make it look great. Imagine taking a new car and straighten it like this !
That works putting it over paint? I was always told to grind or sand all the old paint off,
yes it does...things have changed...materials are better..etc..you can go directly over paint...
over "sanded" paint or primer is fine these days. It is actually better not to expose the bare metal. 47 yrs I've been doing body work, yes it use to be grind the paint off first but that changed in 1988 for me with the new paints, primers and body fillers that came out.
GR Smith I don’t agree at all. This idea that you prime or seal has never worked for me. The mud always shrinks on the edges and pulls away from paint or sealer under it.
Hi there. Beautiful job, thank you for sharing. Can you please what kind of bondo you are using to stay soft for so long? I a novice in this field.
Thanks
Radu
There is a filler from Keystone that works great. Premium Plus Body Filler KEY1071A from www.OrderKeystone.com
Also, Evercoat makes a new filler that has a longer working time. It is called Ultra Extra. We have a write up on our blog about it. www.exactlinetools.com
Bondo reacts to how much hardner you use. use a little slow dry use a lot quick dry.
Damian Rojas where can i buy that kind of stuff?
body filler also hardens quicker depending on temperature...more so I think, I go through much more hardner in our cold ass shop in winter
use epoxy products for levelling -aligning surfaces not polyester crap.
I absolutely should say, regardless of my opinion of the process, the finished product and outcome is great. Good job.
118 dislikes, roughly 15% actually know how to do bodywork. That process is flawed but would look good to somebody who doesn't know how, and a complete waste of time but if it works for you is what matters. Maybe someday you will figure it out. Leaving the blade out of the equation, I would suggest building the heavy areas in the center first, roughing out with a body file, grater, grinder or whatever and using one nice finish coat at the end i.e. don't block into previously laid filler. I also question the amount of pinholes that process leaves. It is very difficult to apply even pressure on a compound surface over that length of spreader but as it is up to an individuals preferences, I'm glad it works for you.
mud hog it
Thanks for the video! I am a serious learner. saw some interesting ideas to think about!
Damn this was like watching bondo dry.
You don't have to remove the remaining gide coat on your low spots before you apply your next coat of filler?
It took a couple of times to develop an application and it's a learning curve! Great Product!
Nice job Susie, learned a bit of good stuff here. Thanks.
Ive been in this trade for years, sorry, but this is not how to do it.. As the mud was being applied, high spots were clearly seen, they should have been knocked down before applying filler,
Filler or what you call bondo, should not be applied over paint.
You were sanding with grit that is far too fine, making extra work and not getting the shape of the panel as the filler was being sanded.
For the amateurs out there, this is not a good way to learn, you'll end up in a mess with loads of wasted material.
Sorry for being negative, I appreciate your efforts made
Yeah I was thinking the same thing, been a journeyman for thirty years myself. Have you ever seen anybody sand an entire coat of bondo just to put another coat of bondo on top? It seems to me that this "blade" business is just a substitute for being able to tell when your panel is "straight", anything to sell stuff to people that have no business being in the trade.
Why would you apply it over the door opening. Never seen anything like this from anyone that knows anything about working with filler.
INFOtruth exactly looks like all of his bondo work is way higher than the actual paint he's just feathering it to match the paint never seen bondo applied over paint like that either he should be smashing all that done with 80 grit
INFOtruth this is what I hate people put videos that don't know what the hell they're doing. and someone you watching this will think they are doing everything right. I have been working in this field for a long time and I see a lot of mistakes being done here
I've been putting bondo on top of paint for 55 years and never had a problem
A well presented tutorial Thanks for sharing
wow very nice video originally i thought to myself that the bonds had a very extended work time compared to any i’ve done in South Florida than i noticed the winter hat you were wearing indicating cooler temperatures than i normally work in plus the majority of my plastic filler use in the last 25 years or so has been in woodworking and inside a climatically controlled enviorment and the bonds tends to go off pretty quickly as i think the wood absorbs moisture pretty fast ?
Some say he is still sanding....
Has he finished
Only a body tech can fully appreciate ur comment I pissed my pants laughing .
Haha , i think he went thru 20 kg's of filler ,
Nope...hes still sweeping trying to fill all the lows he added with the DA.
hahaha, legend has it he sanded for a 100 years
What a joke. That's some of the worst workmanship I've ever seen. Way to empty a whole can of body filler on one door that could've been done way more properly with a couple of golf ball sized mixes. Who produced this, Maaco ? Maybe the people that sell body filler ?
waynestone Bristol I’ve worked in the body shop industry for almost 50 years. There is not one person that would ever use this technique ever. DO NOT DO THIS!!
Very nice job man¡¡ how much time do you get to repair de damage?
in his way at least 5 days.
Dude what are you doing ?? You really are making that look hard work
K-Billy's Super Restoration Techniques of the 70's continues....
great video, learned something I didn't know...
what did you do to allow the extended worktime of the bondo- it appears to stay very workable for longer than usual ?? great video and tool ! thank you for your efforts; is the final coat bondo or glaze??
Just do not use enough hardener like this clown.
Thanks for making this video it has brought me up to date with the new blades they have and how to use them . Your job came nice smooth just like when you where spreading that bando you had everything under control. Thanks again and I hope you continue making more videos god bless sir.
Great repair information on car body repair. Your work finished in excellent results.
no it's not,the paint color will not match .i am sure.
so.. i take a piece of sheet metal cut it in a rectangle and i basically have the tool youre selling? r u serious?
That's about the same thing I said and he got mad I have used a straight edge ruler and got the same results I see nothing special about this tool.
This method is much the same as doing drywall mud where drywall panels joints meet unevenly. One coat one way then one coat in the other direction riding the top of the waves left by the previous coat, filling in between. This works well. The only difference is that the panel curves increase the complexity a bit, but tilting the edge of the spreader further allows the edge to conform to the edge of the curve. small plastic spreaders don't cut it when trying to shape large areas.
thank you that was an awesome explanation
first time I saw something really perfect in bondo work
I hope I was been sarcastic
WTH, is there even any activator mixed with that? Never in my life seen that much bondo/filler stay soft that long even in a cool work environment..
More than one type can now. Rage Ultra and Rage Extra
th-cam.com/video/sJcJ0lOKJJo/w-d-xo.html
Others can as well.
It is now far faster to shape the filler soft, that once it hardens.
Shops that don't start to understand this, are like people who try to stay with Windows 3.1, while others have moved on to Windows XP or higher already. They will soon be left behind.
Amen to that, and an area that big would drive you to drinking having it dry out on you.
@@davebabcock6887 finally we got a good response here..The Old school boys cant research, study and stay ahead of the new techniques and processes. I personally like his blades..I've seen my boys take it to bare metal every and tell me to shut up and go in the office. 5 hours later that door job would finally get done. Then bitch they didn't get enough time to repair it . All the while I watch them beat down the high spots after the first wipe and then again , because they are in a hurry and don't work the metal out properly. None of them use a straight edge..
If it's so much faster and it's so perfect why did he do over 5 filler applications and use probably a gallon of filler? He didn't do that any faster than normal
@@mescalp you don't know what you're talking about. This is not faster or better. This guy had high spots in his metal except he just bridged over them with a gallon of filler, rather then knock them down which is the correct way. Highs and lows are a very common, hence why body filler was invented! I feel sorry for your guys. You wouldn't survive getting paid commission and using this method it's a complete waste of time.
everyone has there on ways! at the end I would of been a happy customer thanks for video and tips
Wrong! As a right way and a wrong way and you just want to put your 2 cents.... Sorry it took 2 years for my reply...
Vero, You are correct, there is ALWAYS more than one way to complete a repair. It's nice to see different approaches and methods of repair, even if it's not how I would do it.
You wouldn’t be happy when you get that bill as they charge you by the hour and or how much product they have to use but usually by the hour and he tripled your original bill at a place that actually knows how to do it
Have you even ever worked with raw materials like this...
Despite the tips of the video as you've mentioned.. Hardener applied would've made the project very complicated to worl with by now.... That's all many are saying! Know your facts before giving credit also job must be done properly if you're going to video it!
I agree mine sets up in no time unless I use less harder then it set about 2 hr in a colder temp around 55 degree
Well done !!
No frills, Done right the first time.
You sir are the Bob Ross of bodywork!
I've been doing this trade for 30 years,and this is one of the biggest load of crap..stop misleading beginners.
Sure he could of finished it with a body file
Dinosore
I hope his customers don't pay him by the hour!
Lol lol lol I agree
Looks like you have been wasting your time for 30 years.
in our country Indonesia is an expert in this field, even with simple tools
Most bondo drys in about 3-5 minutes. You kept working it for over 5 minutes. However much hardener did you put? Two drops?
Great job! Great professional narration.
You must not of used much hardener. Bondo would never be that soft that long.
Judging by his clothes, it was extremely cold in there. It won't flash until he puts heat on it.
Filler is a chemical reaction. It will get hard regardless of the temperature. Just takes a little long the colder it is.
You are correct it is a chemical reaction. At 32 degrees the working time could more than 10 minutes.
Filler will get harder quicker if apply some heat, but not too much
Justin Ventworth I was thinking the same thing no way you gonna work bondo with that many passes and stay smooth
as for the comment about seeing waves, your crazy, i've been doing bodywork for 25 years and those doors are straight! as for the comment about aluminum cars, since when did toyota start making aluminum camrys?
Michael Angelo must be his name
Have owned a body shop for over 30 years. If you can sell 3 metal strips for nearly $200 with S&H then good for you! While there are always numerous ways to skin a cat, anyone with a little experience could knock the shaping out quicker with a filler rasp and viking including blocking for paint.
Ive been repairing damage for 30 years and never used a blade..1 good 1st fill and block sanding would have cut this job in half..i'm sure if he tried a different tactic them blades would go in the trash..man this was hard to watch.
Sorry, I see plenty of waves in the final finish on that job.
U must already be an expert, maybe u should watch something else and learn something
Does this use a certain hardener to give you extended work time?
Dave Babcock
1 second ago
Now that filler can be adjusted for desired time to setup, and still keep the ratio correct, it is easier to learn how to get it right, while the filler is still soft.
More than one type can now. Rage Ultra and Rage Extra
th-cam.com/video/sJcJ0lOKJJo/w-d-xo.html
Others can as well.
He has more info in other postings, and on his site.
It is now far faster to shape the filler soft, than once it hardens.
Shops that don't start to understand this, are like people who try to stay with Windows 3.1, while others have moved on to Windows XP or higher already. They will soon be left behind. And no, I do not work for the seller of this, or for the filler companies. But I do know from experience, that this does work very good.
WHAT KINDA FILLER IS THIS THAT LAST SO LONG MINE GETS DRY MINUTES AFTER ADDING HARDENER
Yip
Good God, I’d fire everyone involved in this.
Firstly you DON’T put Bondo over paint 🤦♀️
Secondly you don’t use masking tape, it creates an edge.
You made a simple job look hard.
Patrick Allen
You not firing any one! Fact!!
You most certainly can put filler over paint..maybe not in 1988..but materials and techniques have changed greatly..
Ryan Davison you don’t know what you are talking about!
@@dawinner777 prove me wrong!
Its plastic filler it goes over paint, not much different from polyester high build i would imagine.
Oh my my you bonded the doors together omg smfh
OMG!!! can't stop laughing 🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂😂
That would require a welder
I agree. This is a total waste of time. How did he get that mud to not harden for that long? It must have been 50 degrees in that shop.
This video is a total joke. Nobody that works in a real body shop would ever spread mud like this.
This is a really good idea I been having trouble fixing a small dent cause the bondo from walmart was to dry like chewing gum.
Well done. So good and so well explained great job I’ve leaned a lot from watching you so cool don’t rush it fantastic Larrysullivan in London
very detailed. great job. the guy enjoys his craft. leave em alone.
this body work will never be straight cos so many layovers this call maping and it's the worst it call maping cos all the different color of bondo diferent hardener amount
The Bob Ross of paint and body!
Which is the amount of hardener used in order to be able to sweep before it hardens?
none,
I love how the internet jockies chime in. I wish they practiced what they preached and posted their own videos so we could critique them. Video was very informative, it's never to late to learn a few new tricks. Panel came out razor sharp and paint is nice and wet. Proof is in the result. 👍 Some people obviously have never done this, or don't grasp the concept- most of what is laid on gets sanded off as overfill to achieve a straight panel. Tis why it's called working the panel. I would hate for them to see the prep involved working a car 20 plus years old, if they are crying about this. However, then again they are probably eating cheetos, with youtube pulled up, making up their magical credentials on why they know better. While enjoying their favorite car show on tv spreading that stuff on like cake frosting. Being impressed by their idol that has a group of 50 guys actually doing the work behind the scenes. Go figure? Awesome job, you definitely are an artist.
All I can say is That's a lot of mud for a small area
Toad Harris cave n pave
What kind of bondo? How much hardener? Why is the mixture very creamy? What is the temperature of your work area? How long to let dry before sanding? What grit sand paper?
Really good S#i+ man! Love this filler too. I think it's Evercoat rage ultra extra given the working time length.
I could have put on a new doorskin in the time it took for the mud to dry.
+tires2burn I call bs. please put on a door skin and have the caulking dry in this time... I want to see that video.After you door the door skin, now you have created more work cause you have to paint inside the door area.
GIJo TRAF the guy it's right easy to do a dor skin then what this guy did this was easy repair gone ron
tires2burn and i could've changed the whole door before you even started
Its body repair work..no changing parts...ok dude....i could change parts and i bet he could 2...repair is key word..you cant always find or change parts ..i have a 55 chevy..needs work on the doors..can i change the skin on that??
Door skins are bs
Sorry Guys, Usually I keep to Myself about Bodywork But on this one I simply cannot. I have been doing Car Show Body and Paint for over 30 Years and everytime I see something this Ridiculous I just wanna cringe.........First off. Rip the paint off of the whole damaged area.Next do a skim coat with Bondo from the body line to the bottom of the door. Next, after the Bondo is dry run an airboard over it with 80 grit sand paper . Feel the surface when done and fill any small imperfections with finish putty.......Run the airboard over it again...Next take Your Da sander with 120 grit and smooth the whole area out..........Bingo.Ready for High Build primer.........When thats cured Hand block sand with a long board with 220 paper then 320 finish......Bingo ready for Paint
thats you said is the old school of painting. . . me I did not use 80grit. . .120grit ....
No
so your saying you can paint the primered panel over 320 grit
What he said^
This is unbelievable. I just cant take it. Hes got high spots that are clearly evident. The bondo probably still soft to this day. Here's how its should be done. Take down to bare metal. Actually work your metal to make it straight so not that much mid is needed. As you said, airboard with 80 and feel the work. I personally always use a finishing putty which I open on long board 80 then guide coat and finish in 150 then 220 the 320 then prime. Oh that's takes a long time. Not really because my METAL IS MOSTLY STRAIGHT. For the love of God man. Hopefully the customer doesn't know what to look for or puts a magnet to that door
Amazing job and skills. How are you able to keep your filler from drying so fast? Seems like you have plenty of time to spread and then shape it.
Room temperature has a lot to do with it. And slightly less hardener 👍
Ive found if you press to tight with the blade it forces the resin to the surface and makes the initial cut a liitle harder
how you gonna make money if you're sanding all day
OMG. 28MINUTES in and its still low. I'm done! Working thenmetail would have eliminated this disaster. Please stop... please
Define working the metal please
I agree this is a joke
People always preach "patience" when doing bodywork but they never give context or proper instruction to bring home the concept in the mental aspect of the job.
As someone who has spent a lot of years teaching technique in several disciplines, including automotive work, I can say that thhs is the most direct and comprehensive video I've seen in.. A looong time.
I learned a lot and in a way that makes sense to *me*. I realize that you're promoting a product and the product makes the results possible but a "lacking" instruction procedure renders it all a mind-numbing snooze fest. lol. I found myself watching the whole video with equal attention, start to finish.
I have several vehicles in need of bodywork, so... Thanks!
Took me all the way back.Great video.keep on droping that heat
the time it took to do this I could have worked 3 cars
Can u post your work speedy, I'd like to compare
i did 4 cars in 2.5 hours the other day. One had front and rear bumper, bmw m4 had rear lower bumper, other two are rear and fornts as well. I think thats quite fast. 1,200$ in my pocket for the day
clemsontigz1 them why do panel repairs charge so much then? Lol
@@potmad6753
maaco charge $500-$800 single stage paint,and after a year thay will end up in my shop paying $1500-$2500 in mostly 4 stage of paint and 3 clear coat,that's the difference,the paint i use the pint sometimes cost $100 to $150 and the lamborghini orange cost $6000 a gallon its all about the customers to decide.which one he choose .
the quantity or quality.
150 dollars for the three blades is expensive men
Yes
One job pays for it if you get it done as fast as he does..just remember to use the Rage extra to get the longer dry times for the filler esp on hot days
Lord knows you can't afford that kind of outlay with the thin profit margin body work returns...but it is still nice to dream.
Rodolfo Pierre he’s a salesman, not a body man
This video is a joke. Don’t ever think this tool or technique is a real time saver. No body man would ever use these blades !
Do you have any videos of what you do after that? Like primer or paint. Thanks man
A pcl primer, sand it 320, then primer sealer, sand 400 grit, and paint.
If you went to metal you spray an etched primer first. Additives prevent moisture and rust.
I’m impressed on your work and the video. Very well done. Where are you located?