most "car guys" these days want a pretty cars and don't like the niddy gertty technical vedos like this and speed academic....but for the few of us that do care videos like this are worth there weight in gold....thanks Mike for letting us watch over the shoulder of a legion like your self
@@motoiq Do you guys have and engine build kit for the OBS Impreza's? I have a 97 wagon I'm tearing down (rebuilding transmission ATM), and I'm look for around 350WHP replacement engine. Knowing what must be done to build a truly "Bullet Proof" engine I'd like to outsource for a shot block and heads. Got anything like this?
Mike I emailed you like 20 years ago about what spring rates to run on my B15 sentra. You didn't reply until a year or so later and I've always felt so honoured by that. Keep up the content I love listening to you talk about car stuff. Your modest but laughing its fun to watch
I can tell you love your trade. You say everything with a smile. Keep these videos coming please! Currently building my IAG motor and these help a ton! 🙏
just came across this channel and by far this is the best content i've seen for this topic. i have over 8 years experience being an auto technician and i like how you explain each part and why its an upgrade. also i drive a 2012 STi so of course im gonna watch all the subaru videos lol
I went the overbuilt route for my WRX built too, LOOOOTS of IAG goodies on my car, the AOS, TGV Deletes, Fuel System, and the like, and cant forget the IAG Stage 2.5 block, they do an amazing job with their closed deck conversions. For the under armor, I prefer the TBW under body tray, but that one is just as good too, anyone with a subaru should get some sort of metal underbody tray.
I must say thank you for bringing the xclutch sprung organic twin disk up on my radar. I installed one on my longrod 257 build with an fp blue. Got about 1500 miles on the new longblock and clutch. Made 404awhp @20 psi on 93octane. Would be really cool if you could do a video on cobb FlexFuel alternatives besides open source and Haltech.
Great video! You have a wonderful style for communicating technical info. With an easy-to-listen-to nonchalance. It is obvious why you narrate. Very cool man, from another grumpy old man.
For all the guys looking to save a couple bucks on their build I highly suggest going the extra mile on the block and maybe save a few bucks elsewhere by picking up used parts in instances where the part isn't prone to mechanical failure, like downpipe, TGV, intake tube, ect. Had my block done by a reputable shop but decided to cheap out on the closed deck option because they rated the open deck at 400hp and that was right around what I expected to put down. When all was said and done I ended up at 450hp and about 7.5k miles later one of the rods ended up snapping in the middle and went right through the block, next to the turbo. Well, a lot of oil flies out of a fist size hole in an engine block and it started a fire. It would have been a true disaster if I wasn't on my way to a BBQ with a big cooler full of ice/water/beer in the trunk but there was enough in the cooler to put it out.😂
I agree that a closed deck is a good idea for 400whp+, but your failure actually seems unrelated. A rod snapping at the center is usually a factor of necking from excessive RPM, or buckling caused by detonation. An open deck block would only cause a headgasket failure.
Wrx /sti are a treasure people are catching on to these cars !!! These cars will be wanted like the skyline in the future get one before these cars go parabolic in prices
Great video, it's really comforting to know that I managed my subaru's engine build to this level of precision. I'm an aircraft mechanic so I get very picky about replacing components even when no wear is visible for sake of overall longevity and efficiency. I also enjoy the format of these videos and the delivery method, there's no fake over the top energy, just a guy giving some honest info. Keep it up, subscribed.
I would also like to advise since the oem alternator can’t handle the power output needed, the DC power performance alternator does wonders to all electrical parts needing that great supply of power. The oem alternator causes that subaru “dip” that everyone noticed during idling or at the traffic light. This aftermarket alternator fixes that issue because it supplies the car with better power output than the oem one. Mike I’m sure you can look into DC power performance alternators and explain it way better than me haha.
Just bought my first STI SUBIE some months ago, had to have the wing model, they have always had my attention N owning one, its blast to drive!! put in the invidia exhaust, sounds bad ass distinct subie sound and did the cooling N oiling upgrade N ts been a dream!!! FYI SUBD!!!
I'm running the IAG stage 2 tuff block, milder heads, Blouch 440xt, and Tomei Poncam cams. Other than that my build list was pretty much the same. Four years of hot Florida summers plus several track days and the car still runs as strong as it did on day 1. That iWire kit is pretty sick and worth every penny. It's a shame they can't keep them in stock. I've been trying to get ahold of one since February. I don't feel too hot about 120f fuel temps in bumper to bumper traffic.
I love these videos so much, the super chill delivery of facts is so good. I can't find the article now but I remember reading about a lossless exhaust that was developed, I think it was on a corvette. They used all kinds of trickery with the pipes to keep the horsepower the same between open headers and full quiet exhaust withs cats. People don't understand there is actual science behind this and "butt dyno" usually lies (mostly in the form of the loudness went up disproportionally to the acceleration).
I would love to hear what type of problems people with older subarus who thought they did everything right ran into at the track. MotoIQ certainly covers 99% in this video.
I am looking at an IAG 750 on an EJ257 from an O7' STi. The short block is reasonable at $5K. I am planning about 450 to 475 WHP on 1050cc injectors. Probably drop NEW radiator, alternator, oil cooler, IAG oil 11mm pump, IAG oil pan that carries an extra quart of oil, with a cylinder 4 cooling kit, 1050cc injectors, and maybe a new fuel rail system for top feed injectors and the I-wire fuel pump rewire kit. So for maybe 475 WHP... it should be OK on stock head. The question is: Should I just sell my stock STi long block for maybe $4K and drop the IAG 750 LONG BLOCK in its place????? WITH ALL THAT, I would like to use my stock head if it isn't an issue. Thoughts?
tgb deletes can be done with factory parts. my 06 non-turbo legacy wagon has them, and they are 30-50 bucks at times from ebay, or 5-10 bucks each side at a pickNpull
great content from a very knowledgeable source. how about this one; why do some aftermarket downpipe manufacturers put the high flow cat at the end of dp vs some put them right off the turbo? any reason why?
Wish I would’ve went with iag, outfront blocks don’t have clearances meant for engines that will last. After spending my life savings on a brand new fully built ej spun a rod bearing. Sadly I’ll have to wait another lifetime to save up to fix it.
excellent in depth explanation on going the next level. I'm good where I'm at with stock with spt add ons.if I was younger and had the cash would ship to your shop. God bless from hamden,ct
Looks like you're missing the speed controller in that kit. The black part you held up is the relay block. A common upgrade for the controller is the GTR controller. They're plug and play. This must be an old video, "TGV Deletes" is a dirty thing to say these days.
I always come back to your videos, no matter how old. The ej20 would you ever recommend a build using that block and valve train for a daily around the same bhp that you recommend on the ej25 of 500bhp
I have an 04 wagon had ringland fail spent 4k and it was a shady place and had it so called “rebuilt” never ran right but made it a year and all 4 rod bearings failed both heads are no good along with a bunch other stuff. Now my question is does it seem average to be quoted $13,195 for rebuild? They said they have extra heads ready to go at the shop already. This is a legit shop by the way but it really seems like I could possibly find a somewhat nice sti for that price and I have no way to get my car right now they have already billed me 4k just for the labor I’m not sure what to do. I just want my car to run right and solid and reliable. Thanks in advance and this channel is the best thank you so much for being real when it comes to prices I soak up most of the knowledge this guy gives out besides being able to pay for my wagon
It does seem to be a bit expensive if you just wanted a stockish rebuild. It does not sound totally unreasonable. We would not know the condition of your car, it might need stuff like all hoses and under hood plastic and rubber bits replaced due to them being brittle with age. These things add up.
Got all the essentials! iAG seems to be the way to go when it comes to blocks. Their prep is truly amazing. Thanks for pointing out all the wrongs that Subaru did to us 🤣
@@motoiq okay thanks for the reply there's not much out there for the 5th gen legacy I got a gtx3576r rotated turbo kit 1650cc injectors with a 450 walbro pump need a tune can't find a plug and play option. 😢and yes most of the stuff are deleted.
How about being wise and drive how you would a granny car? Keeping your Subie stock and maintenance it on a regular basis goes a long way, as any other car would
So I'm assuming that these videos were made prior to the Cobb Greenspeed update... My understanding is that the TGV delete, and Speed Density now won't be allowed through their software.
You mentioned "tgv deletes" and "flex fuel"... What's the plan with the Cobb Access Port not supporting that hardware anymore? Is the accesstuner software jailbroken yet, the "green speed" update was just a month ago. Super interested in your plans here.
Mike, I am located near shop in Gardena and I was wondering you guys work on VWs, I have a MK5 GTI than I want to refresh the engine and I am hoping your shop can do the job.
Doesn’t setting up parallel fuel rails also help pre-detonation in cylinder four? The path the fuel takes from the tank being routed oem goes in a loop not directly to four being the last to get fuel so the lack there of can cause pre-detonation hence knock.
Recently I've seen other people talking about the downsides/misconceptions around the cylinder 4 cooling mod. Are you sure this is a modification you should still be recommending for everyone?
@@motoiq I would like to someone knowable to confirm this data and put this to bed once and for all . There is also data stating that it disrupts the flow cycle to the other cylinder and not getting enough cooling .Some tuners will not run them and some youtubers are removing them.
When talking about the MAF and air speed density, is it a swap, or all the parts mentioned make it air speed density? Also, where can I find those parts because my engine is getting bogged down from my cold-air intake, and the stock MAF does not like the intake at all lol. I sometimes have to give between 75%-85% throttle when up shifting to keep the rpms at a higher point. It's almost like there's toomuch air and it's choking the engine if I push the throttle to 100%.
@MotoIQ Do you guys have and engine build kit for the OBS Impreza's? I have a 97 wagon I'm tearing down (rebuilding transmission ATM), and I'm look for around 350WHP replacement engine. Knowing what must be done to build a truly "Bullet Proof" engine I'd like to outsource for a short block and heads. Got anything like this?
My opinion is you should only use 2618 on a turbo Subaru. Of course 2618 doesnt wear as well as 4032 or the stock hypereutectic pistons but there isnt much room for the ring package and the land area needs all the help it can get. The barrel design of the IAG piston is good and they are not noisy when cold. I use them in my personal car and I can slightly here the pistons but injector clatter is the loudest noise when idling. The engine registers zero knock count as well so you know these pistons are not banging around. Of course this is with proper machining of the cases which can be regionally difficult to get.
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
More old Subaru content please. There is a lot of us.
Tru. I'm over here taking notes
and our engines go boom
@@Infinite_AM 😂😂😂
True
Agreed!
I am shocked MotoIQ doesn’t have more of a following. These Subaru videos are some of the most helpful and informative videos on TH-cam!
So are we!
most "car guys" these days want a pretty cars and don't like the niddy gertty technical vedos like this and speed academic....but for the few of us that do care videos like this are worth there weight in gold....thanks Mike for letting us watch over the shoulder of a legion like your self
@@motoiq Do you guys have and engine build kit for the OBS Impreza's? I have a 97 wagon I'm tearing down (rebuilding transmission ATM), and I'm look for around 350WHP replacement engine. Knowing what must be done to build a truly "Bullet Proof" engine I'd like to outsource for a shot block and heads. Got anything like this?
@@motoiq Well, I subscribed and followed you on FB. Thank you SO MUCH for this content.
I've been dealing with Subarus for 7 years and still I was able to learn something here. The chilled way of spreading knowledge is just great!
Mike I emailed you like 20 years ago about what spring rates to run on my B15 sentra. You didn't reply until a year or so later and I've always felt so honoured by that. Keep up the content I love listening to you talk about car stuff. Your modest but laughing its fun to watch
I can tell you love your trade. You say everything with a smile. Keep these videos coming please! Currently building my IAG motor and these help a ton! 🙏
Look around him, that's a lot of reasons to be happy.
i feel like the crew are goofing off-camera alot between edits
I've owned quite a few Subarus and currently on a built STI Hatch and these videos still blow me away, good stuff!!!!
Subaru needs to hire this man and remake their engines. Imagine all that he spoke of STOCK!!! and straight from the factory, Beautiful.
just came across this channel and by far this is the best content i've seen for this topic. i have over 8 years experience being an auto technician and i like how you explain each part and why its an upgrade. also i drive a 2012 STi so of course im gonna watch all the subaru videos lol
I went the overbuilt route for my WRX built too, LOOOOTS of IAG goodies on my car, the AOS, TGV Deletes, Fuel System, and the like, and cant forget the IAG Stage 2.5 block, they do an amazing job with their closed deck conversions. For the under armor, I prefer the TBW under body tray, but that one is just as good too, anyone with a subaru should get some sort of metal underbody tray.
How you have TGV deletes? Are you on standalone?
@@bestkickz2464 TGV deletes would be the least of your worries. Fuel system, AOS, Turbos need tuning too
@@joshbigornia4797 sure, but you can still tune all of that. Evap stuff and flex fuel you cannot, thats why I ask, I assume he just drives with a CEL.
@@bestkickz2464 before EPA involvement you could tune around it. Now you can’t.
@@bestkickz2464 standalone or you can do ecutek too
I must say thank you for bringing the xclutch sprung organic twin disk up on my radar. I installed one on my longrod 257 build with an fp blue. Got about 1500 miles on the new longblock and clutch. Made 404awhp @20 psi on 93octane. Would be really cool if you could do a video on cobb FlexFuel alternatives besides open source and Haltech.
The only other one I know of is ECUTek
Great video! You have a wonderful style for communicating technical info. With an easy-to-listen-to nonchalance. It is obvious why you narrate. Very cool man, from another grumpy old man.
For all the guys looking to save a couple bucks on their build I highly suggest going the extra mile on the block and maybe save a few bucks elsewhere by picking up used parts in instances where the part isn't prone to mechanical failure, like downpipe, TGV, intake tube, ect. Had my block done by a reputable shop but decided to cheap out on the closed deck option because they rated the open deck at 400hp and that was right around what I expected to put down. When all was said and done I ended up at 450hp and about 7.5k miles later one of the rods ended up snapping in the middle and went right through the block, next to the turbo. Well, a lot of oil flies out of a fist size hole in an engine block and it started a fire. It would have been a true disaster if I wasn't on my way to a BBQ with a big cooler full of ice/water/beer in the trunk but there was enough in the cooler to put it out.😂
I agree that a closed deck is a good idea for 400whp+, but your failure actually seems unrelated. A rod snapping at the center is usually a factor of necking from excessive RPM, or buckling caused by detonation. An open deck block would only cause a headgasket failure.
Wrx /sti are a treasure people are catching on to these cars !!! These cars will be wanted like the skyline in the future get one before these cars go parabolic in prices
Great Subaru content. Made me rethink my engine power plans. It's just so $$$! Crying 😭
I like this guy in the way he explains everything is so awesome. But he's a expert.. I wish he can work on my Corolla GR.
Great video guys, I've just acquired a 2012 WRX GR which we are going to build into a race car and this content really helps :)
Great video, it's really comforting to know that I managed my subaru's engine build to this level of precision. I'm an aircraft mechanic so I get very picky about replacing components even when no wear is visible for sake of overall longevity and efficiency. I also enjoy the format of these videos and the delivery method, there's no fake over the top energy, just a guy giving some honest info. Keep it up, subscribed.
Just when you think your build is over. ...It's never over. :D
There goes Scottie Ks gorgeous former 76 SR-5 again. 😍 Had one when I was in the Military . What great car. Keep the nice videos coming 👍👍👍
“But we’re old and grumpy” lmaooooo
I would also like to advise since the oem alternator can’t handle the power output needed, the DC power performance alternator does wonders to all electrical parts needing that great supply of power. The oem alternator causes that subaru “dip” that everyone noticed during idling or at the traffic light. This aftermarket alternator fixes that issue because it supplies the car with better power output than the oem one. Mike I’m sure you can look into DC power performance alternators and explain it way better than me haha.
We are running one on our Evo.
@@motoiq my man👍🏾
Just bought my first STI SUBIE some months ago, had to have the wing model, they have always had my attention N owning one, its blast to drive!! put in the invidia exhaust, sounds bad ass distinct subie sound and did the cooling N oiling upgrade N ts been a dream!!! FYI SUBD!!!
Amazing video once again. Love you Mike! Please post more Subaru related videos in the future as well
More to come!
I'm running the IAG stage 2 tuff block, milder heads, Blouch 440xt, and Tomei Poncam cams. Other than that my build list was pretty much the same. Four years of hot Florida summers plus several track days and the car still runs as strong as it did on day 1. That iWire kit is pretty sick and worth every penny. It's a shame they can't keep them in stock. I've been trying to get ahold of one since February. I don't feel too hot about 120f fuel temps in bumper to bumper traffic.
I love these videos so much, the super chill delivery of facts is so good.
I can't find the article now but I remember reading about a lossless exhaust that was developed, I think it was on a corvette. They used all kinds of trickery with the pipes to keep the horsepower the same between open headers and full quiet exhaust withs cats. People don't understand there is actual science behind this and "butt dyno" usually lies (mostly in the form of the loudness went up disproportionally to the acceleration).
Best builder hands down
That is a lot of great information shared. Thanks for putting this together. It's very useful for those of us who don't live it every day.
these types of videos are very interesting to watch! love it!
I would love to hear what type of problems people with older subarus who thought they did everything right ran into at the track. MotoIQ certainly covers 99% in this video.
class is in session! love the older subies too :D
Seems like IAG has a product to improve the EJ in everywhere. Great video!
Great video guys and thankful for those that sent you guys our way!
I don't know if you noticed the orders lately.
@@motoiq Sadly this product is out of stock at the moment but still grateful for the mention!
Like how he says “…tell us what you want. Write us a kind of INTELLIGENT description, and we’ll get back to you.” 😅✌️
Mike seems like the chillest guy ever. All he needs is a blunt and I'll smoke it with him and listen to him talk about cars while we fixing one
I appreciate you sharing all this knowledge. you are like the Subaru Sage.
I want to fully build my 2000 Impreza outback to 400 whp with STI power train. That’s why I play the lottery😂 keeping my fingers crossed 🤞
Really helpful!!! The EJ motors have come a long way.
Great video, Subaru motors are crazy money
Good work guys. Keep it up. When I get my funds together you're gonna be the guys to build it for me..
I love these videos. I would love to turbo my brz so hopefully y’all can help me get set up right
I am looking at an IAG 750 on an EJ257 from an O7' STi.
The short block is reasonable at $5K.
I am planning about 450 to 475 WHP on 1050cc injectors.
Probably drop NEW radiator, alternator, oil cooler, IAG oil 11mm pump, IAG oil pan that carries an extra quart of oil, with a cylinder 4 cooling kit, 1050cc injectors, and maybe a new fuel rail system for top feed injectors and the I-wire fuel pump rewire kit.
So for maybe 475 WHP... it should be OK on stock head.
The question is:
Should I just sell my stock STi long block for maybe $4K and drop the IAG 750 LONG BLOCK in its place?????
WITH ALL THAT, I would like to use my stock head if it isn't an issue.
Thoughts?
tgb deletes can be done with factory parts. my 06 non-turbo legacy wagon has them, and they are 30-50 bucks at times from ebay, or 5-10 bucks each side at a pickNpull
But these look cool!
great content from a very knowledgeable source. how about this one; why do some aftermarket downpipe manufacturers put the high flow cat at the end of dp vs some put them right off the turbo? any reason why?
Having it down low is better for power and cat life. Having it close is better for emissions.
@@motoiq thanks for the great explanation.
Wish I would’ve went with iag, outfront blocks don’t have clearances meant for engines that will last. After spending my life savings on a brand new fully built ej spun a rod bearing. Sadly I’ll have to wait another lifetime to save up to fix it.
excellent in depth explanation on going the next level. I'm good where I'm at with stock with spt add ons.if I was younger and had the cash would ship to your shop. God bless from hamden,ct
Happy that you guys did this, I’m taking mine to 450 and keeping i there but looking into doing a sequential setup
as in transmission?
Super informative! Great vid guys!
i Smashed that like button! shared and commented for the algorithm !
Mike I hope to see you at the Pikes Peak Hill Climb Race!
I will be there with the Turn 14 Tesla
@@motoiq I’m going to be viewing at at Devils Playground.
Looks like you're missing the speed controller in that kit. The black part you held up is the relay block. A common upgrade for the controller is the GTR controller. They're plug and play. This must be an old video, "TGV Deletes" is a dirty thing to say these days.
Can't wait for you guys to rip into those FA24 turbo engine and give em the sauce 💪
Blow em up and we will see how!
@@motoiq factory warranty for the win
Mike: take it to the next level.
Vegeta: ITS OVER 9000!!!!!!
Man those pistons look good!
I always come back to your videos, no matter how old. The ej20 would you ever recommend a build using that block and valve train for a daily around the same bhp that you recommend on the ej25 of 500bhp
Yes, once you get past the high 300's low 400's the block mods are the same.
always here for the subie content
great vdieo 100 percent. you guys should think about doing a gc8 4 door build!!!!
Maybe one day!
A sect. 80 engine swap guide would go hard
I’d love to hear updates on some of these engines. How long did they or are they lasting?
Our engines at this power level can last over 100k miles if they are tuned, fueled, and cooled properly,
I have an 04 wagon had ringland fail spent 4k and it was a shady place and had it so called “rebuilt” never ran right but made it a year and all 4 rod bearings failed both heads are no good along with a bunch other stuff. Now my question is does it seem average to be quoted $13,195 for rebuild? They said they have extra heads ready to go at the shop already. This is a legit shop by the way but it really seems like I could possibly find a somewhat nice sti for that price and I have no way to get my car right now they have already billed me 4k just for the labor I’m not sure what to do. I just want my car to run right and solid and reliable. Thanks in advance and this channel is the best thank you so much for being real when it comes to prices I soak up most of the knowledge this guy gives out besides being able to pay for my wagon
It does seem to be a bit expensive if you just wanted a stockish rebuild. It does not sound totally unreasonable. We would not know the condition of your car, it might need stuff like all hoses and under hood plastic and rubber bits replaced due to them being brittle with age. These things add up.
Totally thought Mike said, “Slippery Nipple” at 4:37 😂
Haha write an intelligent description. "I Dun want my car make more power" awesome video.
Got all the essentials! iAG seems to be the way to go when it comes to blocks. Their prep is truly amazing. Thanks for pointing out all the wrongs that Subaru did to us 🤣
Mike, what software/hardware will you use to tune it? I know Cobb is not an option with the TGV deletes and speed density. Thanks
A link ECU Plug and Play ECU just like our Evo project. It is excellent!
Could you send a link or show what the plug and play options for subaru tunning know that cobb f... us.
@@legacy5thgen727 dealers.linkecu.com/products/plugin-ecus/plugin-ecus-subaru
@@legacy5thgen727 There is also ECUTek for now but that's getting bricked soon as well.
@@motoiq okay thanks for the reply there's not much out there for the 5th gen legacy I got a gtx3576r rotated turbo kit 1650cc injectors with a 450 walbro pump need a tune can't find a plug and play option. 😢and yes most of the stuff are deleted.
So in depth makes me question what I’m getting into ahahhaha
16:25 I liked the video as soon as i heard him say Bittch! Lmao 🤣 😅
But i have an 09 Wrx that could use some newer parts
Amazing video but what’s up with all the Velcro noise
Great video as always
No superdamper? Fluiddamper is the shiz and a must on any baller motor.
There is one on the motor actually and I forgot to put it in the video.....
The parts on that table cost more than the car. I'm seriously considering selling my Subaru just because of how expensive it is to make good power
It can be pretty expensive to make good power on most cars.
Also keep your power with a stock bottom end below 330 who and do conservative tuning and your stock bottom end can last.
What about sticking a Subaru mill in a VW, Porsche, hot rod or kit car? What would you need for that?
Money!
Love this guy!
I just got inspired to do even more to my subaru 😄
Were you making 400whp on pump or E85 with the Precision turbo?
how do you address the rod bearing failures? best remedy to prevent this and drive hard
Good oil pan and pickup, proper machining, IAG oil pump. I think its all in the video, watch it.
In other words if you're broke avoid Subaru
If you race it, you break it.
Or more like if you’re broke, don’t try to upgrade your car.
If you're broke. Take the bus ..
How about being wise and drive how you would a granny car? Keeping your Subie stock and maintenance it on a regular basis goes a long way, as any other car would
@jackiegarcia7800 that's why I have 2. Bone stock wagon and modded to hell sedan
So I'm assuming that these videos were made prior to the Cobb Greenspeed update... My understanding is that the TGV delete, and Speed Density now won't be allowed through their software.
Yes right before. We are not going to use the AP anymore.
You mentioned "tgv deletes" and "flex fuel"... What's the plan with the Cobb Access Port not supporting that hardware anymore? Is the accesstuner software jailbroken yet, the "green speed" update was just a month ago. Super interested in your plans here.
We are going to go with a link plug and play stand-alone. We really like this on our Evo.
I have a 2019 Outback 3.6R with 35k on it (street use only)
Does it need an Air/ Oil Separator?
Probably not.
Don't forget to upgrade the oil pickup tube, not sure it's included in the list here.
Watch the video!
@@motoiq I did lol I thought I didn’t see the pickup tube in there. Never mind then. All great parts 👍🏻
Timing chain on an S4 Audi dosen't seem so expensive or complex now.
Let's see an AMS manifold on this project no tgv deletes needed.
We are running a Process West. I don't like the plenum design of the AMS manifold although the integrated TGV delete is a great idea.
this man loves subarus
Can't wait to see if you will do a modded GR Corolla once they are available.
We can't wait as well!
Mike, I am located near shop in Gardena and I was wondering you guys work on VWs, I have a MK5 GTI than I want to refresh the engine and I am hoping your shop can do the job.
We don't specialize in them but we could.
saving up for mi iag build looking to get 500 out of my 20 STi
Wonder if the WCP treatment to the engine components would benefit or last thru the years... sounds good tho
It lasts the life of the engine.
:SLIPPERY NICKEL!?
Isn't that a fancy liquor shot?
Doesn’t setting up parallel fuel rails also help pre-detonation in cylinder four? The path the fuel takes from the tank being routed oem goes in a loop not directly to four being the last to get fuel so the lack there of can cause pre-detonation hence knock.
If you have a marginal system perhaps.
@Hagerty This is how to build an EJ. Yeah, you probably did it cheaper, but this will last a lot longer.
All this talk about LS motor swaps etc. How does one do this and keep awd? Cost?
In a WRX/STI, lots of money is needed before you can consider this.
He's fun ! & Highly skilled !
Recently I've seen other people talking about the downsides/misconceptions around the cylinder 4 cooling mod. Are you sure this is a modification you should still be recommending for everyone?
It's cheap and doesn't hurt and it's expensive to prove that it doesn't work.
wow my car came with a walbro pump but i highly doubt they upgraded the wiring
I heard that the cylinder #4 cooling mod doesn't actually work. Doesn't allow proper flow in the cooling jackets
There is data showing it works.
@@motoiq I would like to someone knowable to confirm this data and put this to bed once and for all . There is also data stating that it disrupts the flow cycle to the other cylinder and not getting enough cooling .Some tuners will not run them and some youtubers are removing them.
So, is this thing running yet? Where's the big reveal party?
It's almost together, just have to do some plumbing, minor fabrication and wiring.
When talking about the MAF and air speed density, is it a swap, or all the parts mentioned make it air speed density? Also, where can I find those parts because my engine is getting bogged down from my cold-air intake, and the stock MAF does not like the intake at all lol. I sometimes have to give between 75%-85% throttle when up shifting to keep the rpms at a higher point. It's almost like there's toomuch air and it's choking the engine if I push the throttle to 100%.
A lot of subies your included run lean after an intake install. You need a tune.
@@motoiq ahh, ok! Thanks!
@MotoIQ Do you guys have and engine build kit for the OBS Impreza's? I have a 97 wagon I'm tearing down (rebuilding transmission ATM), and I'm look for around 350WHP replacement engine. Knowing what must be done to build a truly "Bullet Proof" engine I'd like to outsource for a short block and heads. Got anything like this?
IAG uses only 2816 forged pistons as opposed to 4032. Should this be a concern for me since I'm looking to daily it in the winter?
My opinion is you should only use 2618 on a turbo Subaru. Of course 2618 doesnt wear as well as 4032 or the stock hypereutectic pistons but there isnt much room for the ring package and the land area needs all the help it can get. The barrel design of the IAG piston is good and they are not noisy when cold. I use them in my personal car and I can slightly here the pistons but injector clatter is the loudest noise when idling. The engine registers zero knock count as well so you know these pistons are not banging around. Of course this is with proper machining of the cases which can be regionally difficult to get.
@@motoiq Thanks for the quick reply, gives me more to think about.
This guy could be feeding me complete bullshit and I would still trust him and his smile.
What are you going to do for tuning the ecu? Cobb access port or something else?
A link ECU Plug and Play ECU just like our Evo project.