The Voron Switchwire Is A BEAST - CoreXZ 3d Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ค. 2022
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In today's video we take a dive into the Voron Switchwire. I started building this printer back in March and really enjoyed the build process. I have used A TON of i3 and bedslinger style printers over the years and the Switchwire has really impressed me and stood out from the rest. We will go over the specs, build journey, my thoughts so far, and future plans.
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Always happy to help you!! 😊👌Great reviews for a great printer 👍
Glad you liked the build and like the machine! It's an awesome printer for sure!
awesome printer, and so cool that Fabreeko with LDO motors make our lives so much easier to do this
Great Video. The switchwire is one of the Voron's I don't have. I too have had such a blast digging into the Voron printers. I think I've spent more time printing printer parts than I have other items. I haven't had to, they are good designs, I've wanted too. I'm currently fascinated with V0 mods. Mine don't even look the same anymore...but better.
I've been waiting for this video for a while now. I'm planning to upgrade both of my ender 3pro and v2 to switchwires in the near future. Thank you!
I mounted a BL Touch to the side of my Switchwire Toolhead without loosing any X-travel at all. I've had it over a year and the whole printer has been working great with 0 issues. That being said I wish I had spent a little more money and built the Voron 1.8 (Trident) instead.
really nice/thorough review!
Thanks brotha! I am bummed I didnt get a chance to meet you at MRRF but I did get to see the Tridex in person which was awesome. 🔥
Love my switchwire! Would you share your superslicer profiles for comparison?
I'm looking at an Ender 3 Pro to switchwire conversion. I think I will use the older afterburner tool head, with a 2 or 3 way Y bowden extruder instead of the direct drive extruder. This will have 2 or 3 M4 extruders, for a multi-material (2 or 3 color) printer. You can get basket-case used Ender 3 Pro printers for well under $100, and they will supply all of the extrusions, motors, and the 24 volt power supply.
Great second life for the old Ender 3 V2 that has been idle since it printed my Voron 2.4.
Can you go over the parts and design choices that go into a voron Switchwire? I can’t afford one but I would like to see if there are any takeaways to apply to designing my own system.
I'd love to see a link to the screw organizer STL...
Very nice printer, not sure it's the best one for ABS as it's moving parts thru the air constantly but for sure is very stable one in terms of use at least for me.
can you share the klicky/magprobe macro configuration you are using?
Is there an estimated cost for the conversion from a stock ender?
Hi, is this suitable for ABS/ASA too? with enclosure ofcourse?
I'm using the sw-magprobe as well. It's really good.
I don't think a switchwire is a particularly good value proposition as an entire kit, the price is so close to a trident and it's massively space inefficient compared to the trident and 2.4, using an ender 3 type printer or something that uses a prusa size bed as a donor is an incredibly cost effective way to get a very fast and enclosable printer though.
Where do I learn about doing this? I have an ender 3 v2 I could use
It's a great project if you have an Ender 3 Pro, V2, or S1 you don't use or that needs a new hotend or stepper or motherboard etc.
@modbot are you able to upload your printer.cfg for this? I converted an E3.
In your opinion what is the all around best when it comes to quality and all around the best the creality cr10s pro v2 vs the flsun super racer
The switchwire is by far one of the "different" Vorons branching off the corexy kinematics into the not widely known corexz. The ability to do extremely fast z-hops makes the switchwire a beast in my beliefs.
Very interesting video! I'm thinking about converting my Biqu B1 to a Switchwire-based core xz thing. Just for fun.
you really should not
@@Ender_Wiggin Why not?
@@Felipeh999 Woops i thought you were going to convert a corexy voron into the switch wire. you can do it for the biqu b1 but you may not see that big of a different unless the biqu bq is just bad. Also you will still need to buy a lot of extra stuff just to be see real improvements. Things you can already due to the biqu b1
@@Ender_Wiggin oh no, why would I convert a core XY into a xz? lol
I just want to do it for fun, I don't think the conversion would actually improve print quality.
i would really like pricing info on the conversion from ender 3. who doesnt have 1 laying around lol. 900 seems a bit steep for the entire kit but maybe the ender 3 helps a lot? idk. great video keep it up
If you swap out everything that is called for on the ender 3/switchwire BOM list you're looking at $300-$400. Plus you will need to print out the parts in ABS or ASA. Your biggest costs will be the ras Pi, linear rails, stepper motors, board and gears for the extruder.
This could be a good reason to make a switch wire. i still have an ender 3 in a box so I might look into this.
I am also looking into doing a partial conversion from my Ender3 that has 2 of the 4 linear rails needed & has a direct drive hotend.
Switchblade looks like a nice way to salvage Ender3 hardware without the price of all new CoreXy hardware!
I hope my plans work out!
Siboor sells a kit for the Ender 3 conversion now, like other comments have said, maybe 300-400$
+ModBot Since the *Bambu Lab P1P is all over the place and the Voron Switchwire is more in it's price range* (especially with VAT which brings the costs up to 800 € here in Germany) than a Voron 2.4 does, it would be *cool to compare these!*
Also the rise of Klipper to Ender machines with the Creality Sonic Pad or simply an old Netbook with Klipper installed on it and the increase of speed that comes with it would also be a great contender in the sub 1000 bucks market!
It would be interesting to see if a Ender machine (like the S1 Pro with Sonic Pad) can come close to the speeds of the Switchwire or even the P1P.
The other aspects except speed like costs, building experience, knowledge gain, documentation, tutorials, repairability and customizability would also be very interesting, especially when addressing soo many Ender 3 owners who could convert their machine into the faster Ender Switchwire.
Is there also a comparison in price on how much costs the parts from an Ender 3 safe to a full build?
Bambu Lab is all about speed which seems to be also one reason for the Sonic Pad or Klipper PCs to complement the old Marlin control system let alone building a Voron.
So is the P1P really a gamechanger when speed is not the only concern but also print quality, repairability, printing ABS/ ASA and having a comfy print experience (touchscreen)?
Since I have some old Smartphones laying around I wonder if I could use one of them (Moto G (1. Gen) for example) as a touchscreen for the Switchwire... ?!
Irony is when you decide you want to look into a printer one day, and ModBot has a video for you same day. Ha.
Man....aren there ANY good print start macros out there for switchwire?!?
I’ve had a lot of trouble with the cable chain on my Y-axis. The printer keeps eating through the cables so I printed out a prusa 90 degree cable mount and switched to a cable wrap instead.
I have too. Both of my bed heated wires split in half. It first happened after 29 hours, so I put the cables in sleeving and inside the cable chain. Then the other wire broke after 450 hours. The PTFE wires from McMaster I used to replace the bed wires seem to be working better. The McMaster wires have a better weave of the wire strands and thicker insulation.
You have to use wires rated for cable chain, such as ones with a PTFE sleeving
@@jakoob874 it came from the LDO kit…
Sadly Fabreeko discontinued the kit. I have found a kit on a few other websites but it does not have the 3D printed parts. I'm very interested in this printer. This is probably the only way the wife will allow me to build a Voron printer. It seems the quality is really good compared to a COREXY.
With the pricetag in mind, would you say this is better over a prusa for example? Or a prusa bear? Or thinking cheaper an Anet AM8 BLV conversion?
It depends. If you like tinkering them build a voron. If you just want the printer to work out of the box then get a prusa. Though after the tuning the switchwire can print quite a bit faster than a prusa with its stock profiles (I'd say 3-4x faster consistently, even 5-9x if you really push it) and it can be tuned to a very similar level of reliability however the klicky upgrade is a must here. Lastly the switchwire is also capable in printing more materials with the optional stock enclosure, however this is mostly just small-medium sized ABS parts.
that x1 carbon getting dust in the background 😭
😏🤐
well, I just inheretid an ender 3, so this looks fun!
Someone committed a Switchwire profile to the repo directory used for Superslicer; I merged it today.
The LH-Stinger would eat this thing for breakfast :P
Do you think an ender 3 conversion to switchwire is worth it, or should I entirely build it from scratch?
To me, buying an Ender 3 first and print with it stock then only upgrade it to a Voron when you have fairly knowledge about 3d printer. But if you already have knowledge about 3d printer then go ahead. Buying kit and build from scratch is much more enjoy ride but only when you know what you are doing :)))
Tons of ender conversions. Honestly for printing abs/asa the bed of a ender can get to 100/110c way easier than the prusa bed can. Its "slightly" smaller in print surface and has a stronger heater.
Build from scratch, print parts on the ender and sell it when the switchwire is built
Late to the game on this thread, but figured I would chime in.
I am about 90% of the way through an Ender 3 V2 to Switchwire conversion, and I can say that if money is no object, the conversion is pretty awesome. I've learned a ton, and the difference in print quality from the ender to SW is outrageous.
That being said, I haven't tracked how much I've spent on the conversion, but I can tell you without hesitation that I have spent a LOT more than just going with an LDO kit or the like (if you count the price of the original ender, I've easily spent V2.4 money on this conversion).
Another consideration to make is that there is no kits. You're on your own to source the things you need, and the conversion I went with did not have a BOM, so I had to guestimate as best I could based on the CAD files for the conversion, as well as the official Switchwire BOM.
Probably the other big thing to keep in mind is that there are no manuals for the conversion. You can kind of follow the official Switchwire manual, but not everything translates, and in order to really follow it, you'll have to completely take your ender down to pieces. I had already done a few mods to mine that made me really not want to do that.
All of that considered, I learned a ton, had a ton of fun, gave myself more than one migraine, yelled a few curse words, spent way more money than I expected, and if I could go back and do it all over again? Yeah, I would probably still do it. The Ender was my first printer, and seeing how much it has improved over time, especially with this conversion has been very rewarding. I've got a ton of blood, sweat, and tears in this thing, and wouldn't trade it for the world.
Oh, and one final consideration: the enclosure for a conversion is a giant headache if you don't have a Lazer, or access to someone who does. Nobody makes the panels, and the official panels don't fit. I don't have access to a Lazer, so I've had to hand cut all of it. It's probably the one thing I would do differently if I could. I would pay all the money to send the DXF files to someone and have the panels cut.
Just build 2.4 already
I really want one but I don't have the spare time needed to build one. It would take me like 6 months.
It took me about 14 months, including delivery delays, anxiety to start. Then another idling by making misstakes and reordering of parts to correct them in some way. And the last obstacle is a SBC because USB via PC connection is too slow for printing a real part. Are circular part I mean after it goes into only walls are demanding more than the first layers for the foundation? A small sieve in particular. PS for a V2.4
I'm still not sure why you would choose the switchwire vs the 2.4
Is it just the price?
For me it was simplicity and ease of maintenance.
@@patricke3848 i see, so far i can only afford entry level i3, but interested in a voron 0
what maintenance trap i should be aware of
I'm you should get neither. Get a 250mm trident. Cheaper and better than a 2.4.
In terms of "maintenance trap", neither the vorons nor prusas would be a maintenance trap. The vorons would require tuning out of the box but the prusas should be a plug and play. Just make sure to get a good voron kit if you go that route. If you have more questions just join the voron design discord!
Sadly no one has full kits anymore like the forgotten 3rd child in any family
Siboor
who needs z-hoping?
Was it a genuine Omron TL-Q5MC or China knock off?
Huge Shout out to Steve Builds.
mans built a bed slinger in 2022 lol... is it just me or are those totally 2016? I guess I need to watch and see.
WOW YOUR SO QUIRKY, NICE COMMENT
CoreXZ is just a fancy way of saying bedslinger
I feel like for me the drawbacks of CoreXZ over CoreXY are too big to justify building a switchwire over a Trident, assuming there is no existing printer to mod which saves huge money and makes the cost difference worth the drawbacks
frankly I can't see much of the point vs. a normal bedslinger(belts on z or not), if not doing nonplanar or something(and then too vs belted z).
linear rails are the way to go though bedslinger or not.
edit: what happens if 1 motor driver skips on overheating or something?
Belted along with high performing steppers and a quality mainboard let's you run at higher speeds and accelerations with the same print quality. (Don't forget input shaper though!)
I personally see this as a machine where they combined the worst of both worlds. CoreXZ?... CoreXY is just the best, especially with crossing axes.
RIght. I feel like this was just an experiment to see what they could do. I could see it be cool for converting ender 3s but why use corexz. So not sure
It would work with nonplanar printing. But that's a fantasy technology that still needs R&D.
Bro... Bro... We all just want to hear a follow up on the bambu x1 carbon
Sure that still works and print great! Should be normal for a "commercial printer" but they still didn't ship anything and they still have more than 8 million $, I hope for the Kickstarter's that they will delivered something!
@@jeremyholef right... they said they were shipping in july. They have said they are on boats. I will hold out till I see it
Why not just add a small linear stage dedicated for z-hops? Core-xz is an abomination
I agree, it seems like such a pointless design. This retains the worst and most limiting aspect of an i3 printer (bed slinger) and "improves" the axes that don't really need it.
I would prefer NOT to spend x amount of time building it. My use is for business. Is there an assembled option for these ?
Not really. Vorons are more for hobbiests who want to build a high performance printer.
@@MichaelDBeltran Gotcha...what would be a good starter printer for business?
@@aqwer2400 Bamboo Lab X1 Carbon if you need fast. Otherwise Prusa machines
@@XA--pb9ni I was looking i to buying the Bambu X1 carbon but when I looked it was out of stock hoping to get one though otherwise it will be a prusa
hp mjf for business
to me, that Z axis not too sympatic cuz there is no rigidity
you use original sw frame or converted? because 2020 or 2040 is not rigid 3030 or 3060 is more rigid print more quality with 3030 ...3060... 2020 2040 print is more vibration
@@godbncu misunderstood me ,my problem is the z axis belt...belts are not rigid things
@@zola5584 I z-hop for airtightness to prevent potential leak paths in the perimeters and the belted z is awesome for that. A belt isn't rigid, but I've found it to be very repeatable.
zero practical reason to even think of upgrading 3s1 to this
If anyone can help me with a much needed heel prosthetic, please send me a message. I’ve been dealing with a very particular heel injury due to a bed sore from a hospital stay that has deeply affected my life over the past 5 years, especially considering the shutdowns. If anyone has any advice or can facilitate a modeling and printing of something resembling a reverse scan of my opposite heel, please send me a message. I will absolutely do my best to compensate anyone who’s willing to help me escape the immobility and chronic pain I’ve had.
Sounds more like an episode of MacGyver than a wise investment. Sure, it might seem tempting to cobble together a Frankensteinian machine, but is it really worth the hassle? By the time you wrestle this clunker into questionable functionality, a brand new, feature-packed printer will be on the market.
Think of it this way: Would you buy a used, unreliable PC just to browse the internet? Exactly. Unless you're a tinkering enthusiast with a Scrooge McDuck vault overflowing with spare parts, you're better off saving up for a decent machine that will produce quality results from day one. Invest in your sanity and your creativity - splurge on a reliable 3D printer that will keep up with your imagination.
do buy fake omrons! buy from a reputable electrical dealers, RS or Farnell etc..
Why would you want to get a bed slinger? It would be worse in just about every way. If by saying "underrated" you still consider it not great, then fine. If you mean underrated and should be consider much better, ya hard no. This was a design to deal with the tech at the time we need to move on
#ab ass" but seriously what is the be efit of corexz you say you can move faster in z do faster z hops bit compared to corexy that can't be a real benefit.
CoreXZ is, probably, most idiotic kinematics for 3D Printer. It's worse than anything else. It does not have any advantages but has a lot of issues. Never buy or build such printer. It was made by pure idiots.
I have to agree, adding a bunch of complexity without improving the main problem of an i3 style printer.
Kit builds are sooo boring.