Ender 3 to VORON Switchwire Conversion (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 เม.ย. 2022
- Instagram: / hobbyist_notes
Project inspired and mixed out of two VoronUser mods:
Gizzle: github.com/VoronDesign/VoronU...
Triano: github.com/VoronDesign/VoronU...
Voron Stealthburner: vorondesign.com/voron_stealth...
Nero 3D, UART wiring: • Klipper and the RPI-ze...
My Klipper configs: github.com/Agilato/ender3-kli...
Parts Used:
Rails 3x300mm and 1x 280mm: www.aliexpress.com/item/32829...
Bolts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Cable Chain: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Keychain: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Bearings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Pulleys: www.aliexpress.com/item/32226...
Washers: www.aliexpress.com/item/32917...
Heat Inserts: www.aliexpress.com/item/40002...
Belts: www.aliexpress.com/item/32853...
Spring Nuts: www.aliexpress.com/item/32805...
24AWG Wire: www.aliexpress.com/item/32953...
Ok, BMG Extruder: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
V6 Hot End: www.aliexpress.com/item/32844...
Part Cooling FAN: www.aliexpress.com/item/32867...
Hot End FAN: www.aliexpress.com/item/32725...
CW1 Extruder motor: www.aliexpress.com/item/32585...
CW2 Extruder motor: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Sorkin Direct Drive mod: www.thingiverse.com/thing:517...
Sorkin BL Touch Remix: www.thingiverse.com/thing:519...
Main Board: www.biqu.equipment/products/b...
Thank you for watching, leave you comments below! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
thank you so much for taking the effort and putting this video out . i was really waiting for this video
sound and video quality getting better and better
Thanks.
Ender switch wire conversion is the best mod I've done to my ender 3, just prints no hassle super reliable
Glad to hear that, I have +- same experience the only downside is price.
Not sure why TH-cam recommended me part 2 first but I'm watching both now. Very curious about doing this myself.
I think after months have passed I wouldn’t recommend it, only if you want to have some “hobby fun”
@@hobbyistnotesthink your forget that Voron printers aren’t hobbyists printers anymore. They are professional printers with excellent print quality and accuracy.
@@xiar5546 I meant that considering the price of this conversion make sense to get Core XY printer instead... unless you have parts around and you want to have fun. 😅
You forgot to mention that corexz can almost run the z axis at the same speed as the x axis. I have z homing set to 50mm/s on mine and can do a full 4x4 mesh in about 20sec. I also have z hop speed set to 70mm/s.
Good point, I pref to do slow 2 probe 5x5 mesh one time per 10-20 prints.
@@hobbyistnotes my testing showed zero impact on probe reliability with a bltouch up to 50mm/s. Running it before every print only takes about 20 seconds and I don't have to worry about accidentally bumping the bed out of cal when removing a print.
@@C2H6OFTW I agree. I haven't spent enough time validating accuracy of my probe... but so far my probed/saved mesh was super accurate. So it's food for another day, appreciate the comment, gave me some info to chew. ;-)
Thanks for sharing your journey with us :D I think that switch wire its the entry lvl to Voron :D because let's be honest even to are great printers you need to be a tinkerer to start such a project :D
For Sure! ☝️
Nice Work on the Conversion, and thank you for sharing your honest opinion about it, even after you already spent the time and money! Have you seen the belted Z mod by Kevinakasam, what are your thoughts on it? Could be a good compromise with most of the advantages of the SW vs a single Lead crew, but at much lower cost.
I haven’t tried this mod but might in to the future, unfortunately now I don’t have time for 3D printers, so may be later. Thanks for advice.
Hey friend, I think it's a cool project, none the less like you said may be better to just go straight for a core XY.
It's cheapest Voron printer if you build it from scratch... Otherwise I think this mod/project for people who have most of the parts laying around without a use or just tinkerer ;-)
Would love to see a pets list and build document to do this conversion to my Ender 3 V2
Included links contain BOMs and parts you will need to do this project.
if using the printer configuration, your cfg can you tell the sequence of the X and Z stepper motor cables so that they rotate in the right direction according to your configuration
Here is the gide you seaking: docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/ look around mid-page you will find pictures how to set motors direction, based on how they move.
really nice, can you show us how did you do to not lose Y space, not sure to have understand it, you just turned the Y vslot rail ?
Unscrew 4 bottom screws(located on center) slide whole bed assembly up front that way back bed assembly extrusion screw holes align with front holes on the bottom extrusion. In some mods people mention you can mount just on those 2 screws or make two more holes and tap them but I just used t-nuts with shorter screws, that way bed is more stiffer especially on Z-movement.
Also do it at the end of the build it will make total sense what and how you have to do it.
I'm not doing the switchwire conversion but I got linear rails and lose Y zone and finally I can get it back 😅 do you have to do something on slicer side ? Cause I realized that when I try to center prints, it just go way to far to the front
@@narutogamer Each firmware and slicers have setting for nozzle location. If you use Klipper you might want to set position_endstop value for Y axis, in my case it's set to be -10 as when bed reaches the Y-limit switch my nozzle out of print area. It's better to just move nozzle around with commands and note where bed is out of printing range than configure your firmware with actual 0 after that find position_max and use it in slicer as print bed size. You can check my configs as reference, link is in description.
@@hobbyistnotes Thaaaank you, I can finally print normally with my ender 3 :)
Great video! I just finished a conversion recently myself (For fun not practicality). The only part about this process I've not been too happy with is the lack of some kind of basic baseline profile for SuperSlicer or Cura. I've been tweaking an Ellis profile I found but it's been a headache. Do you have your settings posted anywhere? I'm curious how far I can push this thing.
For me good baseline was regular Ender 3 profile. I tweaked it similar way as Ellis, but still printing slower on my Switchwire than on Trident or V0, the biggest reason is bed.
Congratulations with finished build ;-)
@@hobbyistnotes thanks for the suggestion! I'm currently mulling over the idea of which build next to make between the trident or the 2.4. which one do you think is better for large format? I'm thinking of going 350, maybe 400 cubed if possible
@@o0mrrobot0o26 I like Trident cus it's simple and very reliable. My personal opinion is that 2.4 is over complicated - fun for challenge but too many things can go wrong. It highly depence what is the goal. I wanted 2.4 as it was super hyped but then people from Vorond discord have changed my opinion and I am glad to have Trident as my main ABS printer.
Silly question. What Filament brand, Material type and colors did you use on the Sealthburner?
Whole printer printed with: KVP ABS Voron Red, Hatchbox ABS Blue, eSun ABS+ Black
@@hobbyistnotes Thank You!
Can you share with me which leveling sensor do you recommend ? I have been using with BLTouch but I am struggling with leveling when there is glue on the plate and I am wondering if using a magnetic sensor wouldn't be a better choice ?
Printing a lot last 3 years and I have never understood why people use glue stick as 10$ PEI plate with tuned z-offset solves all issues related to adhesion if properly treated and doesn’t matter if it’s ABS, PETG or PLA we are printing(the best 1st upgrade for 3D printer). I don’t know how people feel about cleaning part and build plate from glue but for me it’s completely unacceptable. Now that said, I personally prefer Inductive probes over Bltouch for one simple reason they are way faster and cheaper but you need to be careful with those as some of them require bat schottky diode in line with signal wire to make sure limited voltage flowing to the signal pin of printer's motherboard, I have video about one of those cheap sensors on the channel. Some new motherboards support probes without a diode you just need to research. Most inductive probes require steel plate to feel the surface and there are some that doesn’t but I have never tried one of these and don't know if its even true and how they work.
are you using an ender 3 stock stepper motor? and how do you remove the pulley on an ender 3 stock stepper motor?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3593964
do the x axis and z axis stepper motor cables need to be changed or not? can you share the x and z cable stepper motor diagrams?
Nothing is changes. Same diagram as regular ender 3, you can reuse cables that comes with the printer.
Hi, does the switchwire conversion has double Z stepper motor or just one? I have an ender 3v2 and a dual z stepper running in the 'same cable'. I am planning on upgrading it to a voron switchwire. Will a BTT mini v3 have any impact in the Z axis or should I stay on the stock motherboard since switchwire has no 'dual z stepper motor needed'?
Excuse me, English is not my mother tongue
SW has different motion system(Core XZ) than regular Ender 3. X and Z motion controlled by 2 motors at the same time, you will be good with any board that has 4 steppers: 1-Extruder, 2-XZ, 1-Y (bed). Stock board can handle this mod but you might need to increase voltage a bit for (XZ) steppers in order to make it work.
i saw the sorkin mod you mentioned could u do a more in-depth comparison as it seem like a way better choice but not documented enough
Not sure I will spend more time specifically on Sorkin mod but I have plans for ultimate budget upgrades for Ender 3.
@@hobbyistnotes if u could go over it in that video as a option that would be great
@@syndicate8190 I just have checked Sorkin mod and it's looks better than 1st iteration, I probably will include it over that budget video as it's actually nice mod if you want direct drive for cheap.
Petg is fine friend. They suggest abs because the temperature and rigidity but both are similar to petg so youll be ok. :). I used mostly abs for my voron, because i print that better than petg, but the rest i used was abstype resin, really nice. Considering converting all my other printers over and adding idex
May be I have misrepresented the information: initial project with Afterburner and CW1 was out of PETG and worked pretty well with low temp plastics, after that I have printed all parts out of ABS. As I mentioned PETG is fine till you print in enclosure let say at 110(C) bed temp as it slowly starts to stretch.
can you share the stl z bearing block right and z bearing block left files that you are using? I'm having trouble finding files like you are using
github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Gizzle/ender-3_(pro)_switchwire/STL/GANTRY
hows klipper running on the pi w? are you able to use input shaper with it?
There are 3 ways to get shaper working, when values are set it runs fine: 1) Overclock Pi W. 2) Use other Pi to get Shaper values/graph. 3) Manual calibration by printing the model.
where do you find the bom for the conversion?
I just went for conversion and used parts that made sense during the build as I had a lot of parts from other printers. You can check description there are 2 links to original projects that inspired me, they both have boms.
I have a problem after changing the PEI spring steel base magnetic sticker when I heat the bed to a temperature of 105C the magnetic sticker swells. do you know what magnetic base sticker can withstand 105c-110c without bubbling in the middle? the thickness of the magnetic sticker I use 1mm
Are you sure it's bubbles may be your bed is just bending due to internal stress which is normal with cheap beds. I have used 110(C) on 2 of my Ender 3's and they have cheapest PEI sheets/magnets applied never had bubbling issues... tho I applied mine's while preheating beds to 90(C). I would try to puncture the bubbles while bed is preheated.
Hi. I have the Ender 3 Pro version and I don't know how to go about it. Can you help me with the parts I need to print?
All needed links are into the description.
what length of x axis aluminum profile are you using? on github triano the length of x axis is 300cm. because I only have one ender 3 v2 then I have to prepare it before disassembling and installing all components correctly. I will follow the mod you are using because I am interested does not change the location of the psu and maiboard.
I mentioned it in the video, had to cut existing Ender 3's X-axis extrusion/profile to be 320mm as I used Gizzle X bearing assemblies with 280mm linear rail. Triano uses 300mm Linear rail that is why his bearing assembly has different design if you will use shorter than 320mm you will loose total of 20mm of print area on X-axis. It's very tight there.
@@hobbyistnotes if i use 300mm linear rail with X bearing block gizzle with x axis aluminum extrusion length 320mm can it be used?
@@madorax251 with 300 rail you will need Triano’s bearing blocks
the part of z_bearing_block.stl you are using belongs to gizzle or triano? I also want to put the cable chain on the left and the keybak on the right like you.
I used Gizzle one, either one will work fine. Just don't forget to mirror both right and left blocks same as chain mount.
@@hobbyistnotes is 1 meter long cable chain enough for X axis and z axis? because I use it only for x and z only.
@@hobbyistnotes i tried mirroring stl file gizzle z_bearing_block_right and z_bearing_block_chain_mount and keybak_mount only for z_bearing_block_left I've tried mirroring on slicer but same result. does keybak_gantry_anchor need to be mirrored too?
@@lanypuspasari1868 yes
sorry if i ask a lot of i really want my ender 3v2 to be switchwire but it doesn't change the location of the psu and mainboard like your ender 3 v2.
what length of cable chain do you use for ender 3 v2 concersi swicwire? is 1 meter cable chain enough for x and z?
Yes, I used: Befenybay 10mm x 11mm Length 1Meter
@@hobbyistnotes cant your share X and z steper motor wiring diagram?
@@lanypuspasari1868 You can use SwitchWire manual, it has full wiring diagram. I just used Ender's cables.
Klipper is the biggest and best mod you can make. Besides getting a flexbed for quality of life.
But good to have a comparison for people with doubts.
Got 2 sidewinders x1 , One stock apart from duct with klipper and the other running SKR1.4T+ LGX + Rapido + CHT and there's virtually no difference in print quality/speed when comparing cost added. Running stock at a conservative 100mm/s or 150mm/s outer perimeters and 250mm infill with 5k or 7k accel depending on what im printing.
Mostly agree. I would also add bimetal heatbreak as faster speeds require higher temps which leads to melting the PTFE tube.
@@hobbyistnotes Agree specially if its a v6 style. If its a volcano you shouldnt have many issues if you dont want to spend the extra 5-10$.
PLA and PETG can be printed fairly fast on Volcano without a decrease in temperature.
Got a sidewinder x1 with LGX + Rapido and CHT nozzles and a full stock sidewinder running klipper at 150 or 200mm/s and between 5k and 7k accel without much difference in quality comparing both. Biggest difference i would say is the stringing which is virtually none on the LGX
@@Killerjack007 For sure Vulcano will be better upgrade compage to bimetal heatbreak mb even cheaper, unless we aren't talking about custom fanduct and etc.
@@hobbyistnotes Imho people need to know what they are trying to achieve when upgrading and decide what they need. But neither of us is wrong ^^
All the above was correct, be the heatbreak bimetal or titanium, etc etc.
For me the LGX and Rapido Hotend was mostly for fast printing and heating even on TPU or nylon.
Rapido goes from 0-250 in a blink
@@Killerjack007 100% agree! It's always nice to see and have options to play around that is the beauty of any hobby, sometimes we make and do things which doesn't make financial sense.
How do I do this for my original ender 3? I don't really want to source the parts myself but I cannot find any kits for the og ender.
I know there was a kit, Google: “enderwire” and you will find it.
@@hobbyistnotes I know Siboor has one but it seems it is made for the pro and v2 but not for the og.
@@ESCAPE766 There is only one main difference: bed mount extrusion on og is 2040 and on pro/v2 is 4040. Other than that I think that kit will fit your needs if you will keep your bed the same way as it's on stock ender 3, same as me. I would recommend to source parts urself, cus you can cherry pick things you want, there is not that many parts you actually will need for such mod.
@@hobbyistnotes Ok thank you so much!
I have an ender 3 and i made some upgrades to it over the years. Now i bealive is time to go for a voron. I'm a bit lost in where to look for the parts that i need.
I have a linear rail on the X axis already
I have 2 linear rails that i was about to install on the Y but the Y is fine, so i could use it instead in the Z.
I have the metal extruder upgrade for the bolden setup.
I have an enclosure, so i only print in abs basically.
Now, where do i go from here?
Have in mind that i only have 1 printer.
Steve have done nice 4 series stream on this topic: th-cam.com/video/PV_FJh0c8aY/w-d-xo.html. To make printer functional you don't need Skirts, electronics box and Y-Axis parts/rails as you can leave those as is, similar to what I have in my setup. I would read Voron SW assembly documentation and take notes on parts and components for steps that your printer needs. Check bom for Gizzle and Triano builds - links are in to the description. Print parts you know for sure you will need and dry fit hardware. With self assembly printers/mods there is no "safe way" you just have to go for it and learn while you doing it. Good Luck with your Build!
@@hobbyistnotes thankyou sir!
did you replace stock creality heatbed thermistor with ATC Semitec 104GT-2?
Nope. Whole heated bed assembly is stock.
@@hobbyistnotes I think the thermistor on the heatbed was replaced because I saw your klipper printer.cfg using Semitec ATC thermistor on the heat bed.
@@lanypuspasari1868 It's just default value in BTT SKR's board klipper config, I haven't changed much as it was working fine, tho you probably right other configs mention it has: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
So you can regain lost Y by just using T nuts and pulling the Y frame extrusion forward? I have like 30mm of unusable print volume due to a hermit crab install that i don't even use
Yes you can mostly gain this space back.
@@hobbyistnotes Nice it didn't even occur to me that its possible, Need to order some hardware now...
@@afkafkafk You can probably reuse some of the hardware from other parts on the printer such as t-nuts form spool holder ;-) but I still would recommend spring-nuts feels more secure.
@@hobbyistnotes thanks, they were in my basket already lol
what black abs brand your using?
eSun ABS+
Working on my conversion as I watch this.....
I wish you a smooth conversion ;-)
can you tell me how to remove the ender 3 stock stepper motor pulley?
Hey, I mentioned in previous video that I used 2 of Creality Extruder motors, One of them I had around from my other Ender after Extruder upgrade.
But here is jig to remove pulley: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3593964
cant x carriage afterburner CW 1 be used to stalthburner?
To start what? CW1 and CW2 have different X-carriage designs.
does using a 42-40mm steppermotor not hit the y plate during homing?
No, why it would? It's the same as on stock Ender 3.
@@hobbyistnotes isn't the 0.9 deggre steper motor longer than the stock ender3 v2? as far as I know the size of the 0.9 deggre steper motor is 42-40mm the size is the same as the steper motor for the ender 3 stock extruder while the ener 3 stock motor seteper is 42-34?
@@madorax251 rotation angle and motor size are two different parameters. With same motor size Lower the Rotation angle higher the resolution and lower the Torque due to required amount of windings and thickness of the conductor.
You think you can build a corexy from scratch with 500? Using what BOM/kit, genuinely curious, not mocking :)
Yes, I think it's more than possible with same quality components. I'll say more you can actually buy one for less than 400$.
can you give some links for the sorkin mod?
Just updated the description. ;-)
@@hobbyistnotes thanks
Ok, if you compare I was thinking about getting voron 01 and cheapest one is for 500 dollars
You own both so can you tell the difference of them in quality aut of the "box" and which one is better and Ur favourite? Thx in advance
If you want to spend 500$ I would take a look at core-xy printers, the best buck for the value. They Have way more potential: to print other materials than PLA or PETG and do it on faster speeds with less problems. IMHO Switchwire fun engineering challenge but as printer it’s not much better than regular Ender 3.
As I own now ender s1 and s1pro, there's not much to upgrade and I want to get a building experience and knowledge
@@jaroslawzmuda8963 up to you, but I would suggest core-xy instead as it has more challenges and way more interesting as kinematics.
@@hobbyistnotes And what cxy in this price will be good in printing quality?
Any options to start with?
@@jaroslawzmuda8963 one of the popular picks for advanced used so far is flying bear. Needs few updates but very capable. Or may be you can self source voron trident with use of Ender components. I think it’s realistic to assemble voron trident 250mm for 500$ just need requires research.
Steper motor 9.0 for all Axis or for Y Axis only?
I used Ender’s 1.8degree motors on X and Z from stock extruder (I had few). Y stayed untouched. You can use original motors or buy 1.8 or 0.9 it’s up to your pocket($). At first iteration use original Z motor for Z and Extruder for X, they are different size but would work fine.
@@hobbyistnotes I once tried the stepper motor extruder ender 3 4240, I installed it on the y axis but it stuck on the y plate cariage. should i change the stepper motor holder or cut the y plate cariage so it doesn't stick with the steper motor when homing
@@madorax251 No idea what you mean... You don't have to cut anything only X gantry Extrusion, check my other videos.
i only have one ender 3 v2 please share with me the stl mirror file you are using. i really need it to convert my ender 3 v2 to SW like yours does not change the location of the mainboard and psu covers.
I just used slicer to mirror the parts and only mirrored parts related to Cable-chains and Keychain. You will find links to not mirrored STLs in description.
@@hobbyistnotes chain anchor generic.stl extruder stepper motor is it mirrored too?
@@lanypuspasari1868Yes
@@hobbyistnotes Are x cariage frame left and x cariage frame right also mirrored so that the x endstop position is on the left or not mirrored?
@@hobbyistnotes I see on your github printer.cfg the X-axis section doesn't include homing_positive_dir: true. does the homing position like ender 3 v2 stock move to the left?
Этот акцент ни с чем не спутаешь)
🤫
Would be a great project for "yeah my kid wanted one of ender printer things last year, he printed like 2 things and then it broke so I just want it off my dinning room table now, 50 bucks".
Cost less than double? Not saying much.
Yeah, not cheap.
Why not make a comparissom with 100mm/s
The goal was to show that kinematics is capable of withstanding higher accelerations without losing the quality. Speed itself isn't an absolute variable and higher speed is nothing without higher acceleration in most cases printer won't even be able to reach the speed you have set due to smaller acceleration value. I can probably test both printers with same acceleration and speed but I have gifted my Sorkin-mod printer to one of my friends.
@@hobbyistnotes thanks, you are an awesome friend.
I dont get how this mod costed 300$. I mean you actually only need 3 linear rails, some pulleys, belts and bolts. Thats about 60$. You can reuse and print all the other stuff. or am I just too dumb to get this? But great video anyway. gonna convert my ender 3 v2 to this too.
Small things add up, bolts, nuts, connectors, electronics with better control and etc. 300$ is number for people who have 0 other things other than 3D printer. Obviously for people who are long time in the hobby and have a lot of spare parts it's obviously will be cheaper. Also 300$ is if you will use cheap stuff, number can get higher if you will use more expensive rails and let's say titanium hardware...
cant your share BOM and stl your using
You can find BOM in mentioned Gizzle and Triano builds links are in to description, also you will find there links to parts I have used.
i have ender 3 v2 planning to convert to voron SW because my ender 3v2 has problem of inconsistent leyer and z wobble. can you share with me the BOM and stl file you are using?
@@hobbyistnotesI am very interested in the SW ender but I want to change the ny as yours does not change the y axis steper motor cover and the location of the electronic enclosure and psu.
@@hobbyistnotescan you share the stl z bearing block right and z bearing block left files that you are using? I'm having trouble finding files like you are using
@@madorax251 github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Gizzle/ender-3_(pro)_switchwire/STL/GANTRY
would be better to buy a K1 nowadays than upgrade a ender 3 v2. Unless this mod goes down to 100$.
I think if you source parts yourself you can probably fit in 100$ for main part of the upgrade, but it will be tight. I am totally agree tho now there is so many good options for 300$ - 400$
Not a fan of the core-xz with the super long belts. The X gantry doesn't have any significant reinforcements from what I see and the Stealthburner toolhead lacks rigidity and is too heavy at almost 1/2 a kilo (430 grams). This printer will drop quality as quickly as a stock Ender 3 with the same acceleration but it costs 2x the price... total waste of time and money since it provides solutions to problems that didn't exist and it doesn't solve problems that would make a significant difference in speed and quality.
I had exactly the same observations when I initially saw this mod but real life experience proves completely opposite. I am printing with this printer for about a year on 5k Accelerations and speeds up to 150mm/s (Ellis-PIF-Profile). In last 3 months this printer worked close to 24x7 as it started to work on print farm and so far I had only one issue with a probe wire braking as it wasn't suitable for cable chain. Whole gantry feels very rigid with support of belts and linear rails. Compare to my Voron Trident it's toolhead on gantry feels exactly the same, no play after a year of hard work. For me it's the most consistent and most pain free printer as it's just "slice and print". Also it's very easy to forget when this mod was done there was no Bambulabs printers around that completely turned 3d printing market and now for this money it makes more sense to get P1S.
@@hobbyistnotes I'm honestly surprised it gets 5k accel... input shaper is probably working really hard. The X gantry has no brace or anything to prevent it from shaking with the bed. The 2 stepper motor housings could have easily doubled as corner bracers but they're hanging in the air and leaving the X gantry joint exactly the same as it came out of the factory & seriously limiting the whole performance of the printer.
@@hd-be7diTrue X and Y motors mounts could be beefier and I know there are some mods around with such improvements but at the same time I never had issues with gantry leveling, set it once when printer was assembled and never touched it again, just went to check and gantry leveling still perfect. Personally I don't really care how hard input shaper is working unless it's directly affects print quality and in my case print quality and consistency is way better than 2 of my Ender 3's I have around. Funny that Auto input shaper calibration offers up to 10k acceleration but at 10k I can see some ringing and goal is to have this machine printing as long as possible with little care as possible.
@@hobbyistnotesThe leveling wouldn't be affected by this flaw! Input shaper is a final software step and imo should be tuned only after optimizing the hardware gantry rigidity... in this case addressing the weakest link! The 4040 frame parts are quite rigid and can absorb vibrations but the 4020 beams on the X transmit a lot of vibration upwards
@@hd-be7di In theory you are right but It's like back in 80-90s people were writing the software saving every byte of the memory and with current compute powers almost no one really cares about resources anymore, same is here as long as it works no one cares and in reality we aren't trying to shoot rockets to the Mars or something, it's just a hobby 3d printer. I don't think that Ender 3 itself with it's heavy moving bed have the best and optimal architecture and weight distribution, we are talking about cheapest hardware there is. There are people who against probes and bed mesh algos but in real world trying to get good 1st layer on a tinfoil thin bed is a total joke itself. That is the difference between theory and actual application. For me this build was more like an exploration challenge and results are overcame my expectations big time. I didn't really expected to have such consistent 3D printer, at the same time as mentioned in the video I am not really sure if it's worth to even do such upgrade if you can get over all better printer in same price range.
As you have mentioned, it's great but not worth the money..
It is what it its... I personally expected a bit more from this kinematics... but reality is harsh...
@@hobbyistnotes I did a upgrade with a company from ender to voron and the cost was 850$.
Upon upgrade, the printer was not at all reliable to print without issues.
@@diginomad6016 Idk for me printer is very reliable, for about a year it was just hit and print, no further tunning. My Ender 3 on the other side always had small issues, so id say it's an upgrade tho I am not sure it worth that much.
@@hobbyistnotes Looking for more videos from you in 3d printing
Кровь из ушей
Glad you like it 😉
Йес ай лайк ит!
@@7503777 Ахахахах
На русском есть обзор?
Привет. Нету. В целом и не планировалось. Так как в этом ролике и так достаточно примитивный уровень языка.