If you don't pre-heat the bed, the leveling process will bring the bed to a point that becomes too close when the bed is hot and expands upward. Switching to paper for leveling allows for a hot bed level process. Heating the nozzle may not be required, but I do preheat the nozzle to ensure the gap is consistent.
Loving mine. It's doesn't make the most perfect looking prints, but everything it prints feels so much stronger and with tweaking the settings you can get a lot more out of it.
My first instinct was to flame the mediocre print quality, but Cura tweaks are there for a reason, and he did state up front that he was using generic test settings. What we need is a follow up after the settings are dialed in.
If you install the new firmware from qidi you will get z compensation...i'm glad they fixed that one and a filament sensor for this machine. If you notice that your bed is not so good calibrated you can fix that with z compensation in the setting menu when printing
@@DanielMolina-st9sp Download firmware from qidi home site. You might need to contact them for the firmware. It might not exist on their home site anymore because this is a old printer now. Then you need to follow their manual and put it on a USB memory and stick that into the printer. I remember I just choose print file that are the update file on the memory stick and the machine do the rest. Best is if you contact qidi and they will mail you all the things
21:08 Assuming it will do them at the same time. My EcubMaker will do the auto leveling first, then heat the bed, then heat the nozzle. Takes 12-15 minutes before every print starts.
The top where you put packing tape.. I"m assuming by now, that you know you can actually 3D print the part you need for back there.. ( there are some on Thingiverse ) .. It's mainly for when your not using something like PLA, like ABS that needs temps to stay accurate etc..
All these people talking shit on this printer when the dude in the video is literally using the factory settings and clearly doesn’t know how to use this printer (because he just got it lmao) anyone knowledgeable in 3D printing knows this thing has way better printing potential. Yes it’s overpriced, but it’s way more capable than y’all’s ender 3’s and little mid range printers you’re comparing it to.
I have been watching your video while trying to set up mine, and whenever I go to move the z-axis it's making a loud groaning noise. I didn't hear any noise on yours when you raised and lowered you tray so is this something I should be concerned with? Also it seems that the right threaded rod that lifts the tray is having a hard time moving, do you have any advice on how to deal with this?
Again, 5mm retraction on a DirectDrive? My stock parts Ender 3 DD conversion works great with 1mm, so a more compact extruder+hotend combo like this should do even better!
Hey vlad I like That video, Thanks for That. Could you please make a review of the flashforge guider IIs V2 2020 Edition and compare with the Qidi Max. I dont know wich should i buy 🙄
I bought one and needed this video - I couldn't put the filament in the extruder and there is no word of pressing that lever in the manual. I messured the x and y axis and they are perfectly squared (booth 24.95 mm for a 25 mm part). But I got a line at one edge that is around 0.1 mm in height. I guess it started each layer from there and it is barly visible and still in the ± 0.1 mm that this printer sells. It could be quieter, but outside my garage you barly hear it so it is an acceptable volume for me. The print quality is averange in my opinion but could be improved with better settings - I had just slightly less filament than required in the nozzle for printing. It is absolutly true that you have trouble watching your print start (with closed door). That is a bit annoying.
good review. could you do a video on how easy or hard it is to replace the ptfe tube in the hotend. i have an anycubic 4max pro and boy is it a pain to do maintenance on the hotend. i am wondering if this could replace it.
Does anyone know if the high temp hotend would fit on the new imate s I know its the same hotend in the xplus but if the imate s can be upgraded it would be a game changer
Great video brother I’ll be looking forward to more of them. I’d be interested in learning how to adjust them axis’s to get a more perfect print. Keep it up. Sub’d
You didn't use the filament holder correctly. Your spools are upside down and you need to run the filament through one of those black tubes that is hard to not see. The Cura version it comes with is incredible and to use generic settings isn't doing this or anything you review any justice. Retraction on a DD is much much lower than what you set it to. I question your knowledge. Other than that, fun video to watch....
What premium features exactly? No printer in its price range can print the high temp materials the X Max can. It’ll only print like garbage if you’re incapable of properly calibrating the printer
DO NOT BUY! If anything goes wrong (like a filament jam) you will not be able to fix it. The assembly is designed to make it nearly impossible for user repair. The screws they use are cheap and will strip out, making it impossible to get at the problem. Everything is so intricately designed once you take something apart (like the belt holder) you can't put it back together. This is a nightmare waiting to happen. DO NOT BUY!
perfectly boring in presentation....that style like a cars sell man of the fifty, whit a fake exitement, i imagine if he speack about waters, he will by as exited to tell its wet, sorry in cant not even listen to the all video...sad the suject was interesting.
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If you don't pre-heat the bed, the leveling process will bring the bed to a point that becomes too close when the bed is hot and expands upward. Switching to paper for leveling allows for a hot bed level process. Heating the nozzle may not be required, but I do preheat the nozzle to ensure the gap is consistent.
Loving mine. It's doesn't make the most perfect looking prints, but everything it prints feels so much stronger and with tweaking the settings you can get a lot more out of it.
Learn how to use the machine correctly and it will print the highest quality prints lol
My first instinct was to flame the mediocre print quality, but Cura tweaks are there for a reason, and he did state up front that he was using generic test settings. What we need is a follow up after the settings are dialed in.
Such an underrated TH-camr
If you install the new firmware from qidi you will get z compensation...i'm glad they fixed that one and a filament sensor for this machine. If you notice that your bed is not so good calibrated you can fix that with z compensation in the setting menu when printing
Hello Hammer, how did you do that?
@@DanielMolina-st9sp Download firmware from qidi home site. You might need to contact them for the firmware. It might not exist on their home site anymore because this is a old printer now. Then you need to follow their manual and put it on a USB memory and stick that into the printer. I remember I just choose print file that are the update file on the memory stick and the machine do the rest. Best is if you contact qidi and they will mail you all the things
This is the first. one I've seen with auto-power off Very nice
21:08 Assuming it will do them at the same time. My EcubMaker will do the auto leveling first, then heat the bed, then heat the nozzle. Takes 12-15 minutes before every print starts.
The top where you put packing tape.. I"m assuming by now, that you know you can actually 3D print the part you need for back there.. ( there are some on Thingiverse ) .. It's mainly for when your not using something like PLA, like ABS that needs temps to stay accurate etc..
For ABS you must use the backside of the magnetic bed.
I have the „little brother“ the X-Plus and it is also really amazing to print.
Why do you have to use the backside?
@@TableTopBiker Because the user manual says it.
I’m intending to get this printer for Polycarbonate and Nylon Prints. Are the fumes well contained for indoor operations?
Thre is a plugin in Cura for QiDI printers to connect to the network and monitor prints
I just love your time lapse video segments of the 3D model printing out. What kind of camera are you using? I'd like to go and pick one up?
Did you ever resolve the issues with the dimensions?
All these people talking shit on this printer when the dude in the video is literally using the factory settings and clearly doesn’t know how to use this printer (because he just got it lmao) anyone knowledgeable in 3D printing knows this thing has way better printing potential. Yes it’s overpriced, but it’s way more capable than y’all’s ender 3’s and little mid range printers you’re comparing it to.
Thanks for the review and info as usual
Could you please look at specs of the Qidi X-CF ? Is a new release and looks like a modified X-Max
Did you later try two color print? If so, how did it turn out? Thanks!
Got one from a friend, looks like it is well worth the 150 Bucks replacing the motherboard he accidentally shorted out will cost. 👍🖖
I have been watching your video while trying to set up mine, and whenever I go to move the z-axis it's making a loud groaning noise. I didn't hear any noise on yours when you raised and lowered you tray so is this something I should be concerned with? Also it seems that the right threaded rod that lifts the tray is having a hard time moving, do you have any advice on how to deal with this?
Again, 5mm retraction on a DirectDrive? My stock parts Ender 3 DD conversion works great with 1mm, so a more compact extruder+hotend combo like this should do even better!
Great video
Hey vlad I like That video, Thanks for That.
Could you please make a review of the flashforge guider IIs V2 2020 Edition and compare with the Qidi Max. I dont know wich should i buy 🙄
Their software is frustrating, is it possible to use my 3dWOX software with the Qidi printer? I see your using the ultimaker software.
For DD extruders isn't the retractions supposed to sit around 0.8 to 2? That's what I run on my sprite pro.
I bought one and needed this video - I couldn't put the filament in the extruder and there is no word of pressing that lever in the manual.
I messured the x and y axis and they are perfectly squared (booth 24.95 mm for a 25 mm part). But I got a line at one edge that is around 0.1 mm in height. I guess it started each layer from there and it is barly visible and still in the ± 0.1 mm that this printer sells.
It could be quieter, but outside my garage you barly hear it so it is an acceptable volume for me.
The print quality is averange in my opinion but could be improved with better settings - I had just slightly less filament than required in the nozzle for printing.
It is absolutly true that you have trouble watching your print start (with closed door). That is a bit annoying.
mine arrives tomorrow this video is so helpful as its a soft walk through before i have to do it, can't wait
got it yesterday just having your video playing in the back ground was a big help and test prints done, great job
Just got rid of my ender 3 v2.. is this worth it?
good review. could you do a video on how easy or hard it is to replace the ptfe tube in the hotend. i have an anycubic 4max pro and boy is it a pain to do maintenance on the hotend. i am wondering if this could replace it.
hi, do you have any thougs on ajusting the speed in this printer, how safe is to make it print faster and how i actualy do that?
Do you still own this printer and if so, how do you like it now?
Brilliant review. Thanks.
For this grade of a printer, the X and Y dimensions should be the same.
Nice printer but at $1100.00 plus $676 shipping to the UK I will stick to my V-King and my Lack Enclosure
Does this print ninjaflex well?
Qi is pronounced Chee!
translates as "air" and figuratively as "material energy", "life force", or "energy flow
Andrew Hays, she she. Sorry, I don't know how to write in Chinese.
Sehr gutes Video. Weiterso
Does anyone know if the high temp hotend would fit on the new imate s I know its the same hotend in the xplus but if the imate s can be upgraded it would be a game changer
Can you check out the Voxelab Aquila printer? Thanks for another for review!🤘🏽
I wonder why this has bad ringing on X but not on Y, whereas the i-mate has much worse ringing on Y. They should be comparable... Any ideas?
Is it possible to pause at height in cura?
Great video brother I’ll be looking forward to more of them. I’d be interested in learning how to adjust them axis’s to get a more perfect print. Keep it up. Sub’d
Creality CR-5 Pro H Vs Quidi X Max please.
If you turn on the do-not-disturb mode, the ringing will stop. It works on my phone 😉.
You didn't use the filament holder correctly. Your spools are upside down and you need to run the filament through one of those black tubes that is hard to not see. The Cura version it comes with is incredible and to use generic settings isn't doing this or anything you review any justice. Retraction on a DD is much much lower than what you set it to. I question your knowledge. Other than that, fun video to watch....
I want that😍🔥👍
Ok, my bed doesn't look like that, nor does my screen have the same options as yours. I just order Max II.
It's the updated firmware.
It prints "ok" I am not sure I would call that quality nice. There is ringing, and extruder noise in those prints. Standards people
For the price of the printer the quality of the print is very poor, Also can you please explain what "outtow bed levelling" is for a 3D beginner
Do you mean "auto" instead of outtow? If so, it's short for automatic. Automatic bed leveling makes it easy. It does it for you.
Op
Not to be a creality fan boy, but I can better prints on my ender 3 with the 8 bit board no mods.
No auto bed levelling? Meh product
Oh no, you might have to manually level a bed, the horror.
This thing is not worth anything close to 1k. This thing prints like garbage and is missing a ton of premium features.
What is a better printer in the price range?
What premium features exactly? No printer in its price range can print the high temp materials the X Max can. It’ll only print like garbage if you’re incapable of properly calibrating the printer
DO NOT BUY! If anything goes wrong (like a filament jam) you will not be able to fix it. The assembly is designed to make it nearly impossible for user repair. The screws they use are cheap and will strip out, making it impossible to get at the problem. Everything is so intricately designed once you take something apart (like the belt holder) you can't put it back together. This is a nightmare waiting to happen. DO NOT BUY!
perfectly boring in presentation....that style like a cars sell man of the fifty, whit a fake exitement, i imagine if he speack about waters, he will by as exited to tell its wet, sorry in cant not even listen to the all video...sad the suject was interesting.
lol cheaper bambulab does more that this one can