you could try adding a tube to this rig to deliver shielding gas separately from the nozzle as you would only need to flood the surface of what you were welding with gas hooking it into the circuit you use for the trigger would work for a solenoid fairly well adding a slight delay to the welding trigger would also simulate pre-flow that is used on welding machines. the angle is not needed unless you want to see the weld as the machine welds blind the angle is not needed so you can correct that as well if you want.
As a professional welder who's pondered this, Ill say you could improve this massively by using normal mig wire and co2 gas, then you won't have slag. Also have the torch 90* to the steel not the ideal angle but atleast its consistent with the drag/push of the arc
Yeah the angle only hurt in this application. The gas would help but Im wondering how thick the metal he's getting is. I can't remember if he mentioned the power limitations of that model.
I wonder how low deposition rates can get using spray transfer, i don't think short circuit is the way to go for a printer puts too much heat in one spot. i would actually think an automated tig welder where the printer spits out the correct amount of fill would function better with no slag.
yes a TIG setup would be superior, the torch and cable would be a lot lighter and simpler and the ability to pulse and adjust current on the fly (especially if they were controlled by the printing board) would help in controlling heat in the workpiece. plus the best part is you can still feed it from a spool of mig wire using a normal bowden style extruder so you can have feed rate adjustment and retraction just like when 3D printing, just needing to adapt wire drive rollers from a mig into an extruder that can be driven by a stepper.
@@boomrr07 hmm.. ok.. park a tesla half way on a railway track and wait for the train .. should also make you end up with a J made out of 1 tesla. :) Edit: dont wait inside the car
Shouldn’t angle the nozzle like this when building up material and travelling in different directions. Actually did something very similar years ago for repair filler welding using a fully articulated ABB arm robot. We had it oscillate on the axis perpendicular to the travel to gain line width and manage the HAZ. This got us very good and even line height and surprisingly nice finish
So a weave? I agree though, it would be really cool to see if he could add something so the torch could rotate, like J6 on a robot arm. Would probably be easiest to just orient the nozzle perpendicular to the surface. Also thinking tacks would be better for this. Less heat input to prevent warping, penetration isn’t really important.
Hi 👋 If my lathe or milling machine could help you in any way, just send me an email. I am not an engineer of course, but I definitely can make some simple stuff :)
Have you ever heard of lost PLA casting, its a way of creating metal parts out of plastic 3d prints. I believe it would help you build your metal rocket nossle and be an intresting video.
Integza already has the kiln, and a quick search turned up a furnace/foundry for $300. Bronze melts at around 900 C, so it really sounds like a working solution.
I wonder how you could compensate for the decreased size when you burn off the PLA tho. Will you get a porous metal part with the original size, or a smaller solid piece?
They also do straight lines. The just save you time. The circle is a shape of multiple straight lines with relative angle, for a cnc at least. The stepper motors have some finite accuracy
Most 3D printers that run Marlin don't use G02 and G03, you have to activate them in the firmware. Plus, most of the commercially available slicer softwares don't use these, so the get around this by just using G0 and G1
Video Idea: Print a UAV with a rocket engine. Tomatoes are disgusting! Edit: thank you guys, really thank you for the support. I'm an agricultural engineer ("studying" for the comment below) and a 3D printer can really help my research. Edit 2: maybe an FPV version can be better to take a look at a tomato up close (when it is burning of course). Remember! Tomatoes are disgusting!
When welding thin sheet metal such as in autobody work, they stitch the pieces together or let each weld cool instead of going continuously, which obviously distorts it. Also using argon/CO2 as your flux instead of a flux core wire will help in production.
Makes it seem so easy... For me just to model a pen holder and 3D print it would be half a day's work... That Nikola fella behind you is very very happy to be in your lab.. Never taking yourself seriously, being happy, not worrying about failures, actually expecting things to go wrong so you learn more... Wow... You are the Man!
Hey so here's a suggestion, so my dad is a master mechanic and over the years I've helped and learned to work on cars/trucks etc. When doing body work and your welding 2 pieces of metal together to make your bumper, fender etc whatever it is your working on, the trick to make your piece keep its shape as your welding it is to spot weld it. Spot welding is pretty much a tac weld but you do it so short and quick the metal doesn't get hot. The metal being cold/room temperature as you weld on it is key for it to keep its shape and not twist/warp on you. I hope this suggestion helps! I love all the videos I'm a huge fan 😊
Hey, Integza! I noticed you're a little less pumped up as usual in this video. Don't worry, it's great as always! Just wanted to, as a fan, check if everything is ok.
You can use plastic to create a mold for pouring molten metal in. 3d print the part, place in mold, melt plastic out of mold using kiln, heat metal to melting point, heat mold to 1000 degrees then pour metal in mold. Finish the part by grinding the excess metal from the pour spout and ensure you have multiple holes to allow air to escape
Amazing how close you were to getting this working. A few changes would get you much closer! 1. Find a mill to make a metal clamp for the welding gun. 2. The welding gun doesn't need to be tilted, that's mainly so you can see what you're welding, but you don't need to see. 3. You seem to be using flux cored wire, so you have to clean the slag with each layer. You can avoid this by using gas shielding. I would love to see you get this to make a metal benchy!
"Just because an idea seems stupid, does that mean we shouldn't try it? Well, that's exactly what it means, but It doesn't matter. Because I'm going to try it anyway." Lol 😂
slang? Perhaps you mean accent... ;) slang is native dialect and Integza most definitely is not a native English speaker... (but then, neither are you and I hahaha)
Video idea: Instead of 3D printing steel, how about 3D printing tin? Indeed, judging by the melting temperatures and malleability, you might even be able to insert the regular tin roll into the plastic printing head. If not, you could mabe make it work with some modifications. It could be used to solder on a board or to make some metal pieces with completely different properties from plastic ones.
Metal shrink when cooled down and expands when heated. It's called metal shrinkage. The sheet on the bottom bends because it gets pulled together by the printed layers, which eventually cool down and start pulling together creating tension outside and inside the printed area.
@@girinevass8559 GWR in vertical ascend velocity is 132 km/h (82 mph): dronedj.com/2019/12/18/princeton-student-breaks-guinness-world-record-for-quadcopter/ IDK what the average diy rocket velocity is, but seems enought to me.
Got an idea for you: please investigate the use of a ridicule number of extruders at once, in order to 3d print at ludicrous speed. It would be awesome!
@@brokeandtired Issue is casting in steel, or something even more heat-resistant. Most casting done by amateurs and hobbyists is done in tin or aluminium. You can do this pretty much with stuff found around your house. But it isn't viable for the intended use, i.e. putting a superheated jet stream through it. They would start to deform and drop, or even melt from the heat. To safely be able to melt and cast bronze, steel or even titanium, you need both the expertise and some specialised equipment that isn't worth getting for an amateur with no interest in taking up serious metal manufacturing, and especially for someone who's likely to just make a few casts. Making a metal nozzle on a lathe, though... Then we're talking a relatively low risk, and only one piece of machinery which is also quite ubiquitous and multifaceted. There are benchtop metal lathes that you can get for less than 500 euros. That's probably the right way to go for this sort of use.
@@TaigiTWeseDiplomat--Formosan Maybe I missed, but from what I remember he made video about printing multiple colors. Which could be a nice starting point, but my idea is different. To get what I thought, try thinking about being able to 3d print with something like old 2d inkjet heads, which have a very large number of nozzles. That of course is very unlikely to obtain without some serious research equipment, but I imagine something that would resemble a raw prototype of that on a more macro scale. Kind of 128 extrusion point at once. What could accomplish a proper setup like that? I searched long for an answer at that question, without finding it. Of course if you or somebody else could link some work in that direction it would be very appreciated.
Video idea: Do a competition between you and Tom Stanton to see whose engine makes more power (your rotary engine against his diaphragm engine). The loser has to plant a tomato tree. To make it fair both engines should have the same displacement.
I've got an idea: put your brazing kit onto some sort of chamber. That brazing kit will melt bronze or metal or other metals that are heat-resistant. Then the liquid metal will flow out of the chamber via a tube that is connected to that chamber, and then it will go through a heat-resistant valve connected through a nozzle. That nozzle will dispense the liquid metal onto the build plate. I mean, the liquid metal needs a long time to dry, so this process probably won't work. Another idea: use this idea but put it into some sort of machine that replicates injection molding. You can injection mold parts but the plastic is metal.
If you try in future, you should consider using a stone chopping board for a bed instead of sheet metal, and a thin wire mesh so the weld has something to bind to. I don't know much about welding but maybe also a thin layer of water to cool down the base, would pull heat out of the stone before it has time to build up and crack, would also stop the wire mesh from deforming during the base layer. can't wait to see more, good luck!
Idea for a future video: You should definitely begin applying your rocket engines to some simple vehicles, such as a little rocket car, and maybe even further down the road an actual rocket.
A Few Ideas. 1) pulse your welder to tack one dot at a time, instead of trying to do lines and layers with continuous runs. this will lessen your heat buildup and minimize bed warp. also flux core would be a good idea... 2) use a standard 3D printer to print a part, then make clay sectional molds of it. then just lay a ground wire into the mold's bottom and start tacking dots of weld into the molds cavity, filling it with weld (flux will be essential). once a section is complete, you can use clay to mold the next section and continue it until you've created the full piece. 3) use your ceramics methods to make negative molds and then you can fill them with weld as above. be sure to tack one dot of weld at a time, instead of running lines, as your ceramic may crack or shatter from too much heat. this would require meticulous and slow welding by hand, but should yield a passable piece, for relatively cheap, made of solid metal, and without being a master welder.
I know nothing about 3D printing but I know a little bit about welding and something that might help you is to change to a welder that uses argon as a shielding gas instead of the flux coating on the wire. Also you can use copper or aluminum for the bed because steel will not stick to it but it can still strike an ark.
Yakup has a point. Research lost wax casting and lost plastic casting. The ideal material would be wax, but the only way I could see being able to print with actual wax would require chilling the wax that has left the nozzle and the nozzle itself would be just warm enough to push the wax out like a gel. Lost plastic/resin would be much more simple and cost effective than building a custom wax printer.
@@Circle14 I think the way Robinson Foundry uses on his channel might be useful. He uses lost Pla method with normal 3d printer. Result sculptures are really good. But i dont know will it be useful for rocket engines
@@yakup1937 Myfordboy does lost PLA casting for things such as steam engine parts. Seems he's able to get good results. How far that could go with materials suitable for rockets, who knows? But it shows that mechanical parts can be fabricated with that process as one of the steps.
@@Circle14 why not create a silicone mold using a 3D print, and then pour wax into the silicone mold to get the wax into the right shape for casting? It’d be more expensive and time consuming for the first one, but it would be wax and if you had to make multiple it’d be quicker.
If you move the Z axis could work. Instead of having the angle on the welding nozle you place it straight. The angle should be on the direction f welding but here all direction can be used so it's not good to have it. If you place the mast of the Z axis idk 20cm away you can hold the welding torch like you did the last time, with an angle on the bracket so the nozle is 90° in every direction. By deporting the frame you can move the nozle on the complete plate, and if you raise the frame you gain in height. For the printer the printer head is still at the same spot, you just made an offset because of the shape of the torch. Hope that it could be clear for someone else than me !
I would LOVE to see a video that explores some cost effective ways to make castings from 3d printed parts at home. There are a lot of tutorials showing how to do lost pla castings or how to use silicone. But all of them require fancy expensive equipment that most of us don't have or cannot afford.
I dont think that's as much of an issue as you think. He did make his pulse get engine out of carbon fiber and fire place cement and that took the heat quite well. Think it's worth the shot
FYI your welding bracket is backwards, it’s supposed to push instead of pull because it helps with penetration, if you’re using flux cored it’s gonna produce a bad weld and if it’s gas shielded then it’s not gonna get shielded so it may not even work half the time
you are aware rockets are typically a one time use deal right? yes, you can theoretically make a 3-axis machine using rockets, 1. you wouldn't have very good control at all (rockets dont start or stop very easily) 2. very costly on fuel due to having to battle the rockets to get any kind of control of the "head" 3. it would be VERY slow in comparison. (remember some prints can take days or weeks to complete) 4. that's just stupid.
I absolutely love that it kinda works. $120 welder + $200 printer means we're really close to seeing $500 metal 3d printer kits on AliExpress. Can't wait to see all the nasty fires. The future is bright!
Get a welder in, let him set up the welder how he likes and time how long he can weld a straight line of specified length, this will give you then desired welder settings and Feed setting for the printer. Also I am no welder but maybe carry on with the nozzle vertical as then there is no variation in height as the nozzle moves to various places. :)
even metal rocket nozzles melt, the temperatures on the inside of the engines can reach 3500-4000C. You need to cool all engines down, try cooling the ceramic nozzles using a heat transfer mechanism.
I wonder how many tomatoes you would have to distill to get enough sugar to make a rocket engine like they did in October Sky. That would "technically" be burning tomatoes.
@@Yiyawu Of course keeping in mind that tomatos are very much water - you would need to dry them out first. Otherwise all that energy is going straight into boiling water, which is a lot of energy
@@franciscoveiga8263 The thing is the slicer normally dont geneate them becaue of how an stl file is working. This have the downide that the gcode files get huge as one circle is made from maybe over 100 lines of G1s instead of one line of G2 G3. There is a plugin for Cura called Arc Welder that generate G2 and G3 but the 3d printer firmware is often not stock compatible with G2 G3 and will generate erratic movements. (at least on my Ender3 V2) A firmware upgrade for the printer should solve this however.
hi, i thinker about this for a while and i think the solution is to do "print" using mig and spots instead of trying to do a full pass, you could do pauses in the g-code to let everything cool down a bit and then do the next spot. keeping the print surface in an enclosed enviroment full of argon also, may help to keep the cost of argon down
Now that you've tried to make a metal 3D printer, you should either try to make a CNC router or plasma cutter. Even a friction welder would be cool to see.
The few home hacked CNC welding machine attempts I’ve seen, don’t really work all that well but yours was one of the best for showing how you did it. Just had another thought! copper-clad 0.5 or 0.6mm welding wire, CO2 in the enclosure and drop the feedrates and current to bare, reliable miniumum. Wirefeed welding translated to FDM is like a 500% filament feed rate compared to FDM printing.
Also, as you probably know by now, you could get your rocket nozzles metal printed by PCBWay. Not cheap, but still an “iron price” rather than a "gold price."
That would work but it adds a whole nother problem you would have to find some way to ground the water box and the sheet metal separately to get the welder to work properly
*Ideas!* I am so glad to see that you tackled this, and it works! Have you tried on a piece of refractory or pumice block (such as a barbeque scrubber brick)? That said, the thinness of the metal is bulging up into the workspace causing the shorting. Congratulations on your homework. 600K worth of education here!
This is a great concept I’m assuming you’re using flux core wire as opposed to gas I think you get better results with gas and things would stay a little cooler as well but that’s only one small part of the bigger picture this is definitely worth pursuing I think you’re onto something just need a lot more work to get it right I hope you keep playing with this I think it has massive potential👍👊
*welder here* you should use welding gun that have watercooling first of all. also welding machine that has a pulse feature, that helps to keep weld heat lower and rise the weld bead higher without melting down with the heat. even if you dont have thicker material, bending the edges of the sheet will give it a stronger structure against deformations.
The resolution would be extremely poor. Even with a resin printer, I don't think you could get anything that would make recognizable sound on a standard format that a player can use. Maybe a CNC could do it, though!
@@4.0.4 I'm thinking it doesn't have to go on a real record player. it could be played back using a needle on a cone while the disc/cylinder is spun on a drill. you could make the grooves deeper, lumps higher for more movement of needle. you could sand the disc/cylinder down after printing it then record the sound using a cutting needle on some sort of electromagnetic actuator. Edison done it. also someone done it on a Plastic Food Plate th-cam.com/video/APXXBTwkXSg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=databits
@@plumber1337 3D printing is additive manufacturing. This thread was started with the idea of a 3D ice printer. Additive manufacturing has very little waste. Anything like CNC or laser or plasma cutting is subtractive manufacturing. Subtractive manufacturing is very wasteful and inefficient because you're often wasting more material than you're using. Even if the off-cut material is easy to recycle it still takes a lot of energy and work to do so that is not needed with additive methods. There are pros and cons with both methods, and there are certain types of shapes that are only possible with one or the other. But the point here is that 3D printing is cool because it seems like magic to watch something grow out of nothing. With respect to 3D printing with ice, the idea is not only fun but it's the exact opposite of 3D printing with other materials because you would have to freeze the material instead of melting it.
professional welder here. First thing is your gonna need is a solid metal mig welder. Building material on top of slag is going to be inconsistent at best and will probably be Swiss cheese. Torch angle is better straight on unless you can change the angle for each directional change in the printer.
You need a 2 and 1/2 inch steel plate to prevent warping and you need an inert chamber. you'll also need a high temperature oven to put the parts in after.
That is ether severe animal abuse crime, or prelude for war.. or least i presume Recep Erdoğan has something to say about that... Also HOW you plan on accomplishing the latter?
I suggest putting a blast case using acrylic clear around the base plate, with a hinge in front to reduce any spark's reaching your 3D printer component's. Prevent buildup on unwanted components. Also maybe you could place the metal ontop an ceramic fire brick plate, it might have a reducing effect on the warping effect. Maybe you could water-cool the tip giving you more height and precision control, suggest using a computer water cooler with strong metal heat block, if you want to continue pursuing this adventures. Love your videos and creativity! Please keep making them😊
@@vidiwoodmuzikprodaksons4208 Well, it has the potential - th-cam.com/video/IorDYGI1uqc/w-d-xo.html . Engineers from MIT had some success in making a plane model using this principle - www.dezeen.com/2018/11/23/mit-plane-no-moving-parts-worlds-first-massachusetts-university-technology/
"how do you draw curves? You don't!" AcTuaLLy You can enable G02 and G03 arc support in Marlin and your slicer for much more efficient curves. Instead of breaking the curve down into many segments (lots of lines of gcode) it's able to move in an arc using just one command! 🌠 The More You Know🌠
Using hardware with 25/75 shielding gas with less stick out would leave you with no slag to clean after each pass and less spatter. Angling your nozzle can also push the bead in directions you don’t want it to go since a big concern is accuracy on x and y planes.
Still much better than my welding! Would be interesting to see how much better a flux gas welder would do!
Go mig. Not fluxcore.
even would like to see a TIG variant with an external feed and probably some coding :D
you could try adding a tube to this rig to deliver shielding gas separately from the nozzle as you would only need to flood the surface of what you were welding with gas hooking it into the circuit you use for the trigger would work for a solenoid fairly well adding a slight delay to the welding trigger would also simulate pre-flow that is used on welding machines. the angle is not needed unless you want to see the weld as the machine welds blind the angle is not needed so you can correct that as well if you want.
Yeah use a MIG welder. Flux is too dirty.
Yes you do need to work on your welding.
As a professional welder who's pondered this, Ill say you could improve this massively by using normal mig wire and co2 gas, then you won't have slag. Also have the torch 90* to the steel not the ideal angle but atleast its consistent with the drag/push of the arc
Yeah the angle only hurt in this application. The gas would help but Im wondering how thick the metal he's getting is. I can't remember if he mentioned the power limitations of that model.
I agree. i would also dotweld, dot- move-dot- move and so on for a stronger and more consistent weld
I wonder how low deposition rates can get using spray transfer, i don't think short circuit is the way to go for a printer puts too much heat in one spot. i would actually think an automated tig welder where the printer spits out the correct amount of fill would function better with no slag.
yes a TIG setup would be superior, the torch and cable would be a lot lighter and simpler and the ability to pulse and adjust current on the fly (especially if they were controlled by the printing board) would help in controlling heat in the workpiece. plus the best part is you can still feed it from a spool of mig wire using a normal bowden style extruder so you can have feed rate adjustment and retraction just like when 3D printing, just needing to adapt wire drive rollers from a mig into an extruder that can be driven by a stepper.
Yeah, this isn't going to work. Each layer will add stress to the part, until it finally cracks.
My Gcode told me to come to this video's coordinates at a rate of F6000
Yes
HAHA good one!
Make an hho generator and a fuel cell
:D
th-cam.com/video/uO5pVLOAmD4/w-d-xo.html
You've revealed my secret reason for going by J. It only takes 4 teslas to spell my name. I'm practically saving the planet.
3
no wait.. actually just one if you bend the exhaust :)
@@donalain69 no exhaust on tesla
@@boomrr07 hmm.. ok.. park a tesla half way on a railway track and wait for the train .. should also make you end up with a J made out of 1 tesla. :)
Edit: dont wait inside the car
@@donalain69 thats not the point lmao
"If I can't buy, I DIY." I like it.
That's why on this episode of diy or buy *after the video*
And that's why i declare diy this time the winer (because i can't Buy the Buy option)
You mean BUY or DIY or DIE.
I live by this words. With mixed results.
I wish i could diy
Shouldn’t angle the nozzle like this when building up material and travelling in different directions. Actually did something very similar years ago for repair filler welding using a fully articulated ABB arm robot. We had it oscillate on the axis perpendicular to the travel to gain line width and manage the HAZ. This got us very good and even line height and surprisingly nice finish
So a weave?
I agree though, it would be really cool to see if he could add something so the torch could rotate, like J6 on a robot arm.
Would probably be easiest to just orient the nozzle perpendicular to the surface.
Also thinking tacks would be better for this. Less heat input to prevent warping, penetration isn’t really important.
Was just gonna say that. Lulz at pushing and pulling the tip.
How did you deal with slag in the beads?
@@skipfred probably MIG and not flux core. Or they may have used TIG welder.
@@jakegarrett8109 It's not TIG, there's no such thing as a TIG wire-feed welder
Hi 👋
If my lathe or milling machine could help you in any way, just send me an email. I am not an engineer of course, but I definitely can make some simple stuff :)
😳😳 nozzle problem solved. Lathe can create nozzle curvature. Aluminium will be great for nozzle.
Не думал что встречу альфу на этом канале
О, ничесе!
Кого я вижу!
Это ж сам альфа модс!
Не думал, что ты его смотришь:))
Graphite!
Yeah, this is how I plan to make some nozzles. Metalworking lathes are perfect.
Have you ever heard of lost PLA casting, its a way of creating metal parts out of plastic 3d prints. I believe it would help you build your metal rocket nossle and be an intresting video.
This needs more upvotes. Integza has the drive to make this work.
Integza already has the kiln, and a quick search turned up a furnace/foundry for $300. Bronze melts at around 900 C, so it really sounds like a working solution.
or this printer - th-cam.com/video/4FkzLs7cLes/w-d-xo.html
Good luck mending the metal though
I wonder how you could compensate for the decreased size when you burn off the PLA tho. Will you get a porous metal part with the original size, or a smaller solid piece?
Integza: "gcode can only do straight lines"
G02 & G03: "What am I, a joke to you?"
They also do straight lines. The just save you time. The circle is a shape of multiple straight lines with relative angle, for a cnc at least. The stepper motors have some finite accuracy
@@GAS-OR-ASS yes, but for many applications it approaches close enough to a curve that it is effectively a curved toolpath.
@@GAS-OR-ASS Well anything digital has some level of discretization, the question is who calculates the SIN's and COS's :-)
Most 3D printers that run Marlin don't use G02 and G03, you have to activate them in the firmware. Plus, most of the commercially available slicer softwares don't use these, so the get around this by just using G0 and G1
@@cavemaneca **Riemann wants to know your location**
Video Idea: Print a UAV with a rocket engine. Tomatoes are disgusting!
Edit: thank you guys, really thank you for the support. I'm an agricultural engineer ("studying" for the comment below) and a 3D printer can really help my research.
Edit 2: maybe an FPV version can be better to take a look at a tomato up close (when it is burning of course). Remember! Tomatoes are disgusting!
Will Zeki Müren see us too ?
If your a adult you can just buy it for 160€.
@@max-gras what do you mean "adult"? I don't have a job. I am a student.
@@lukearts2954 dude, why are you angry at me? In my country student projects don't get funded.
@@onurk9798 benimkinde de :/
Video Suggestion: You could try making a mold from ceramic filament, and using it to make something out of metal
That was my idea then I come down and see yours sintering is probably the way to go
That's exactly what I suggested Yesterday .... But had zero like lol
When welding thin sheet metal such as in autobody work, they stitch the pieces together or let each weld cool instead of going continuously, which obviously distorts it.
Also using argon/CO2 as your flux instead of a flux core wire will help in production.
the guy just rick rolled everyone with a 2d rick astley in a 3d printer, what a strategy
That WAS the worst i ever heard :D
With a felt tip and missing z-commands!
And guess what song most of us are singing now!
I've never been so happy to get "Rick rolled", well done sir!
Makes it seem so easy... For me just to model a pen holder and 3D print it would be half a day's work... That Nikola fella behind you is very very happy to be in your lab.. Never taking yourself seriously, being happy, not worrying about failures, actually expecting things to go wrong so you learn more... Wow... You are the Man!
Hey so here's a suggestion, so my dad is a master mechanic and over the years I've helped and learned to work on cars/trucks etc. When doing body work and your welding 2 pieces of metal together to make your bumper, fender etc whatever it is your working on, the trick to make your piece keep its shape as your welding it is to spot weld it. Spot welding is pretty much a tac weld but you do it so short and quick the metal doesn't get hot. The metal being cold/room temperature as you weld on it is key for it to keep its shape and not twist/warp on you. I hope this suggestion helps! I love all the videos I'm a huge fan 😊
Video Idea: Build a 3d printed railgun that can absolutely destroy tomato's with pure kinetic energy (even in the can, where they feel safe)
Why do I & everyone else has the same idea of killing tomatoes in creative ways.
I love how you can see the metalsheet bending over time.
Hey, Integza! I noticed you're a little less pumped up as usual in this video. Don't worry, it's great as always! Just wanted to, as a fan, check if everything is ok.
going bald?
Watch out. He kinda destroys his fans.
@Integza Maybe I'm old and boring but i like your more mellow vibe :)
@@GGozzMontanelas you mean burn them down with molten metal ? XD
You can use plastic to create a mold for pouring molten metal in. 3d print the part, place in mold, melt plastic out of mold using kiln, heat metal to melting point, heat mold to 1000 degrees then pour metal in mold. Finish the part by grinding the excess metal from the pour spout and ensure you have multiple holes to allow air to escape
"Never say never and never give up!"
Let's see, "I built a Metal 3D Printer using my Welder - Part 2!"
You can do it!
My years of welding is causing me to cringe while still being intrigued.
i hear ya, he needs at least another axis to rotate the head...
@@peterd-j8698 The part that hurt me the most was when he was welding over parts without removing the slag from the last pass.
But its a mig welder
@@I_am_ENSanity ☆ That's where Skill emerges!
@@espiqueariel1898 No it's a flux core...
Amazing how close you were to getting this working. A few changes would get you much closer!
1. Find a mill to make a metal clamp for the welding gun.
2. The welding gun doesn't need to be tilted, that's mainly so you can see what you're welding, but you don't need to see.
3. You seem to be using flux cored wire, so you have to clean the slag with each layer. You can avoid this by using gas shielding.
I would love to see you get this to make a metal benchy!
this, would love to see another go at this from @integza
Video idea: make an engine that fuels from wood that powers a lathe , so the wood shavings will be used to power it again
Oh shiii
Another free energy machine...disgusting.
@@suspense_comix3237 he never said anything about free energy, this is more of a longer lasting energy
@@suspense_comix3237 if its a steam engine that fuels on burning wood then its not really an unlimited energy engine
Video idea: try casting metal in sand to make your nozzle. Use a 3d printed nozzle as the mold.
I think the 3d printed mold wouldn't work out, but the casting metal in sand is a good idea.
@@potatosalad68 Yes it would work ; it's called "lost PLA casting", check it out!
+1 good idea but risky
Ya as long as he gets a furnace that can melt at least copper it should work. ones that can melt steel are more expensive
cast a mould out of ceramic from the 3d printer. Two piece or more mould to cast the rocket engine
Integza, a perfect synonym for trial and error.
These videos always manage to entertain me on the highest of levels.
"Just because an idea seems stupid, does that mean we shouldn't try it? Well, that's exactly what it means, but It doesn't matter. Because I'm going to try it anyway." Lol 😂
From time to time, I say: "We're out of clever ideas now; let's take a stupid one and see if it can work."
his delivery of jokes is top notch lol
video idea: make me a girlfriend
When he revealed the fan placement, I was just counting down the seconds to major meltdown.
He mite own a welder but he’s clearly never used it😎
Same here
Was about to sleep but now... Integza Time!!!
Same
Make an underwater drone?
Engineer Gaming
And then there is me: just woke up😂
Have a good night bro
You can make a cast of a 3D printed part to then pour metal in the cast.
VOG th-cam.com/channels/kEYj8wtK3aEW8vSGhlB43g.html
You can use a 3d printed plastic part for the "lost wax" method of metal casting. Aluminum or brass should be achievable with a fairly simple furnace.
I totally addicted to his slang and funny attitude
slang? Perhaps you mean accent... ;) slang is native dialect and Integza most definitely is not a native English speaker... (but then, neither are you and I hahaha)
@@lukearts2954 I'm from india, his speech seem different and attractive to me, that's why !!!! :)
"I'm not made of gold" yet gives away 3d printer every video
Those 3d printers arent that expensive.
And he has a sponsor for each video.
@@hubertnnn well just a guess.. hes not buying them :)
well just a guess.. hes not buying them :)
Video idea: Instead of 3D printing steel, how about 3D printing tin?
Indeed, judging by the melting temperatures and malleability, you might even be able to insert the regular tin roll into the plastic printing head. If not, you could mabe make it work with some modifications.
It could be used to solder on a board or to make some metal pieces with completely different properties from plastic ones.
Has someone noticed a problem I haven't?
Metal shrink when cooled down and expands when heated. It's called metal shrinkage. The sheet on the bottom bends because it gets pulled together by the printed layers, which eventually cool down and start pulling together creating tension outside and inside the printed area.
Build a fpv drone to shoot cool videos of rockets and flying engines!
probably cant keep up with rockets
@@girinevass8559 Oh boy it can 8)
@@girinevass8559 GWR in vertical ascend velocity is 132 km/h (82 mph): dronedj.com/2019/12/18/princeton-student-breaks-guinness-world-record-for-quadcopter/
IDK what the average diy rocket velocity is, but seems enought to me.
Make an underwater drone
@@hanifnurfaisal5912 that's...a submarine 🤔
Got an idea for you: please investigate the use of a ridicule number of extruders at once, in order to 3d print at ludicrous speed. It would be awesome!
Better idea is print a plastic nozzle...use it to make a sand mold and cast the part he wants.
@@brokeandtired Issue is casting in steel, or something even more heat-resistant. Most casting done by amateurs and hobbyists is done in tin or aluminium. You can do this pretty much with stuff found around your house. But it isn't viable for the intended use, i.e. putting a superheated jet stream through it. They would start to deform and drop, or even melt from the heat.
To safely be able to melt and cast bronze, steel or even titanium, you need both the expertise and some specialised equipment that isn't worth getting for an amateur with no interest in taking up serious metal manufacturing, and especially for someone who's likely to just make a few casts.
Making a metal nozzle on a lathe, though... Then we're talking a relatively low risk, and only one piece of machinery which is also quite ubiquitous and multifaceted. There are benchtop metal lathes that you can get for less than 500 euros. That's probably the right way to go for this sort of use.
Did CNC kitchen not doing this yet?
@@TaigiTWeseDiplomat--Formosan Maybe I missed, but from what I remember he made video about printing multiple colors. Which could be a nice starting point, but my idea is different.
To get what I thought, try thinking about being able to 3d print with something like old 2d inkjet heads, which have a very large number of nozzles. That of course is very unlikely to obtain without some serious research equipment, but I imagine something that would resemble a raw prototype of that on a more macro scale. Kind of 128 extrusion point at once. What could accomplish a proper setup like that? I searched long for an answer at that question, without finding it.
Of course if you or somebody else could link some work in that direction it would be very appreciated.
Video idea: Do a competition between you and Tom Stanton to see whose engine makes more power (your rotary engine against his diaphragm engine). The loser has to plant a tomato tree. To make it fair both engines should have the same displacement.
They should also have the same air supply.
Huh, there actually *are* tomato trees. The more you know...
not the collab we deserve but the collab we need
@@LordDragox412 To be honest I wasn't sure what is the proper name of the plant that grows tomatos so I just went with a "tomato tree" XD
@@davidvondracek4994 yea, the tomato never falls far from the tree.... X"D X"D
I've got an idea: put your brazing kit onto some sort of chamber. That brazing kit will melt bronze or metal or other metals that are heat-resistant. Then the liquid metal will flow out of the chamber via a tube that is connected to that chamber, and then it will go through a heat-resistant valve connected through a nozzle.
That nozzle will dispense the liquid metal onto the build plate. I mean, the liquid metal needs a long time to dry, so this process probably won't work.
Another idea: use this idea but put it into some sort of machine that replicates injection molding. You can injection mold parts but the plastic is metal.
Finally, a part that can withstand an attack of tomatoes
Build your own CNC machine using easily available parts
Indymill cnc
maslow cnc
Baling Wire, Flex Tape & JB-Qwik, plus some paper towel tubes covered in fibreglas & Bondo.
Change to MIG. That flux isn't good to weld over. MIG you can just keep stacking it up.
If you try in future, you should consider using a stone chopping board for a bed instead of sheet metal, and a thin wire mesh so the weld has something to bind to.
I don't know much about welding but maybe also a thin layer of water to cool down the base, would pull heat out of the stone before it has time to build up and crack, would also stop the wire mesh from deforming during the base layer. can't wait to see more, good luck!
“If I can’t buy, I DIY” words to live by ☝🏻
You integza your an inspiration
Idea for a future video:
You should definitely begin applying your rocket engines to some simple vehicles, such as a little rocket car, and maybe even further down the road an actual rocket.
A Few Ideas.
1) pulse your welder to tack one dot at a time, instead of trying to do lines and layers with continuous runs. this will lessen your heat buildup and minimize bed warp. also flux core would be a good idea...
2) use a standard 3D printer to print a part, then make clay sectional molds of it. then just lay a ground wire into the mold's bottom and start tacking dots of weld into the molds cavity, filling it with weld (flux will be essential). once a section is complete, you can use clay to mold the next section and continue it until you've created the full piece.
3) use your ceramics methods to make negative molds and then you can fill them with weld as above. be sure to tack one dot of weld at a time, instead of running lines, as your ceramic may crack or shatter from too much heat. this would require meticulous and slow welding by hand, but should yield a passable piece, for relatively cheap, made of solid metal, and without being a master welder.
0:22 - you spelled my name!
hah
try making a robot arm that will cut a tomato into many small pieces like in one of the James Bond movies (I think it was Gold Finger)
Build a mini bioreactor... and turn tomatoes into energy.
That's actually a cool idea!^^
Methane or alcohols?
This would pair perfectly with a steam engine made from tomato cans. power it with fuel made from the tomatoes.
@@Skwisgar2322 Exactly! Gotta get some use out of tomatoes. Preferably at their expense.
@@CUBETechie Uhh I'm no expert, but I imagine alcohol. Idk the chemistry of it though, that's Integza's job to figure out!
I know nothing about 3D printing but I know a little bit about welding and something that might help you is to change to a welder that uses argon as a shielding gas instead of the flux coating on the wire. Also you can use copper or aluminum for the bed because steel will not stick to it but it can still strike an ark.
i’ll take 20
Not sure that would be too Weisz
Underrated comment
Hi Joel I think you could use 3d printed patterns for metal casting to make your rocket engines. It can be stronger.
Yakup has a point. Research lost wax casting and lost plastic casting. The ideal material would be wax, but the only way I could see being able to print with actual wax would require chilling the wax that has left the nozzle and the nozzle itself would be just warm enough to push the wax out like a gel. Lost plastic/resin would be much more simple and cost effective than building a custom wax printer.
@@Circle14 I think the way Robinson Foundry uses on his channel might be useful. He uses lost Pla method with normal 3d printer. Result sculptures are really good. But i dont know will it be useful for rocket engines
@@yakup1937 Myfordboy does lost PLA casting for things such as steam engine parts. Seems he's able to get good results. How far that could go with materials suitable for rockets, who knows? But it shows that mechanical parts can be fabricated with that process as one of the steps.
@@Circle14 why not create a silicone mold using a 3D print, and then pour wax into the silicone mold to get the wax into the right shape for casting? It’d be more expensive and time consuming for the first one, but it would be wax and if you had to make multiple it’d be quicker.
Video idea: Make a waterjet (pump) for a rc boat. Design and optimize the pumps impeller pitch, Nozzle diameter and inlet design.
If you move the Z axis could work. Instead of having the angle on the welding nozle you place it straight.
The angle should be on the direction f welding but here all direction can be used so it's not good to have it.
If you place the mast of the Z axis idk 20cm away you can hold the welding torch like you did the last time, with an angle on the bracket so the nozle is 90° in every direction. By deporting the frame you can move the nozle on the complete plate, and if you raise the frame you gain in height.
For the printer the printer head is still at the same spot, you just made an offset because of the shape of the torch.
Hope that it could be clear for someone else than me !
I would LOVE to see a video that explores some cost effective ways to make castings from 3d printed parts at home. There are a lot of tutorials showing how to do lost pla castings or how to use silicone. But all of them require fancy expensive equipment that most of us don't have or cannot afford.
You don't need a crucible, just hold the metal in your hands and take it like a man
Here's an idea: How about using carbon fiber for the rocket nozzle. I think it is more durable than ceramic and its not very costly.
The issue isn’t durability but temperature resistance. Carbon fibre can take high temps but the resin used to hold layers together can’t.
Fiberglass might be even better, it’s cheaper, easier to work with, and similarly heat resistant/durable
I dont think that's as much of an issue as you think. He did make his pulse get engine out of carbon fiber and fire place cement and that took the heat quite well. Think it's worth the shot
You are freaking genius 😵👍
FYI your welding bracket is backwards, it’s supposed to push instead of pull because it helps with penetration, if you’re using flux cored it’s gonna produce a bad weld and if it’s gas shielded then it’s not gonna get shielded so it may not even work half the time
Video idea: Create a 3D printer that uses rockets to move the extruder.
Also, I don’t need a 3D printer, I just want to see my idea attempted.
yo what xD
you are aware rockets are typically a one time use deal right? yes, you can theoretically make a 3-axis machine using rockets,
1. you wouldn't have very good control at all (rockets dont start or stop very easily)
2. very costly on fuel due to having to battle the rockets to get any kind of control of the "head"
3. it would be VERY slow in comparison. (remember some prints can take days or weeks to complete)
4. that's just stupid.
@@MrGringo466 those are all very good points, but I still think that it would be interesting to see even just a square tried.
Video idea: Get all of your engines that you have made and test them side by side for speed, torque, efficiency, etc.
*all the engines that are still intact
video idea: 3d print a turbocharger and test it on a car or small engine to see if it actually works.
I absolutely love that it kinda works. $120 welder + $200 printer means we're really close to seeing $500 metal 3d printer kits on AliExpress. Can't wait to see all the nasty fires. The future is bright!
Video suggestion: make an engine run on tomato bio fuel and make the tomato’s family watch
Anaerobic digestion makes biogas
Get a welder in, let him set up the welder how he likes and time how long he can weld a straight line of specified length, this will give you then desired welder settings and Feed setting for the printer. Also I am no welder but maybe carry on with the nozzle vertical as then there is no variation in height as the nozzle moves to various places. :)
Soils core with inert gas would keep you from having to grind after every layer.
even metal rocket nozzles melt, the temperatures on the inside of the engines can reach 3500-4000C. You need to cool all engines down, try cooling the ceramic nozzles using a heat transfer mechanism.
Video idea: in the next video, build a tomato can made of ONLY steam engines.
By brain read this how you wrote and imagined the opposite
@@LazySpaceRaptor Watch to the end of the video ;)
@Haron Iclanzan Ramadan not quite he gave it a twist
@@duffman7674 saw
You should make an engine that's fueled by burning tomatos.
I wonder how many tomatoes you would have to distill to get enough sugar to make a rocket engine like they did in October Sky. That would "technically" be burning tomatoes.
@@sheahawes6444 lol, im just meaning like a steam engine that runs from the heat of the burning tomatos
this needs more likes. I mean- its the best punishment for tomatoes. idk how u would do it tho
@@Yiyawu Of course keeping in mind that tomatos are very much water - you would need to dry them out first. Otherwise all that energy is going straight into boiling water, which is a lot of energy
@@jnevercast true, but whether or not the tomatos are dried, they're still tomatos, and they still deserve to burn
G code actually supports circular motion via g2 and g3 functions.
But it still is comprised of small straight line segments since the motion is conditioned by stepper motors and linear rails.
@@franciscoveiga8263 The thing is the slicer normally dont geneate them becaue of how an stl file is working. This have the downide that the gcode files get huge as one circle is made from maybe over 100 lines of G1s instead of one line of G2 G3. There is a plugin for Cura called Arc Welder that generate G2 and G3 but the 3d printer firmware is often not stock compatible with G2 G3 and will generate erratic movements. (at least on my Ender3 V2) A firmware upgrade for the printer should solve this however.
hi, i thinker about this for a while and i think the solution is to do "print" using mig and spots instead of trying to do a full pass, you could do pauses in the g-code to let everything cool down a bit and then do the next spot. keeping the print surface in an enclosed enviroment full of argon also, may help to keep the cost of argon down
Now that you've tried to make a metal 3D printer, you should either try to make a CNC router or plasma cutter. Even a friction welder would be cool to see.
Yeah, friction welders are used at big rockets, instead of regular welding.^^ so that's cool! :3
there are 10000000 videos about cnc building :) frictioin would be fun but not very usefull :)
Video Idea: In the next video, power your 3D printer using tomatoes, and print a tomato with it.
Wow, you turned a simple 3d printer into a 2d printer. Ingenious! You should patent that. I'm pretty sure nobody ever thought of this.
The few home hacked CNC welding machine attempts I’ve seen, don’t really work all that well but yours was one of the best for showing how you did it.
Just had another thought! copper-clad 0.5 or 0.6mm welding wire, CO2 in the enclosure and drop the feedrates and current to bare, reliable miniumum. Wirefeed welding translated to FDM is like a 500% filament feed rate compared to FDM printing.
Also, as you probably know by now, you could get your rocket nozzles metal printed by PCBWay. Not cheap, but still an “iron price” rather than a "gold price."
how about 3d wellding in water?
that might cool the stell sheet and prevent bending
That would work but it adds a whole nother problem you would have to find some way to ground the water box and the sheet metal separately to get the welder to work properly
Without the right sort of coated rods, you'll have nothing but porosity. Using a big old chunk of aluminium under the steel plate would work.
*Ideas!* I am so glad to see that you tackled this, and it works! Have you tried on a piece of refractory or pumice block (such as a barbeque scrubber brick)?
That said, the thinness of the metal is bulging up into the workspace causing the shorting. Congratulations on your homework. 600K worth of education here!
Video suggestion: trying non-planar 3d printing or adding another axis to the printer
Integza just proved us, IT IS POSSIBLE
video idea :you can make a tomato carver using a 3d printer and carve different shapes on it
This is a great concept I’m assuming you’re using flux core wire as opposed to gas I think you get better results with gas and things would stay a little cooler as well but that’s only one small part of the bigger picture this is definitely worth pursuing I think you’re onto something just need a lot more work to get it right I hope you keep playing with this I think it has massive potential👍👊
How about 3D prininting a form, then casting the engine.
*welder here* you should use welding gun that have watercooling first of all. also welding machine that has a pulse feature, that helps to keep weld heat lower and rise the weld bead higher without melting down with the heat. even if you dont have thicker material, bending the edges of the sheet will give it a stronger structure against deformations.
Video idea: Record sound or data on a 3d printed disc or cylinder like vinyl records or Edison wax cylinder.
The resolution would be extremely poor. Even with a resin printer, I don't think you could get anything that would make recognizable sound on a standard format that a player can use. Maybe a CNC could do it, though!
@@4.0.4
I'm thinking it doesn't have to go on a real record player. it could be played back using a needle on a cone while the disc/cylinder is spun on a drill.
you could make the grooves deeper, lumps higher for more movement of needle. you could sand the disc/cylinder down after printing it then record the sound using a cutting needle on some sort of electromagnetic actuator. Edison done it. also someone done it on a Plastic Food Plate
th-cam.com/video/APXXBTwkXSg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=databits
th-cam.com/video/IQi8FUsZ8OY/w-d-xo.html
Make an ice 3d printer. Print ice sculptures and ice cubes for your drink 😂
Why not just use a laser?
@@plumber1337 Because a laser is reductive. We're doing additive here.
@@awo1fman that's exactly why. And I own a laser (they are great) but not as great as a ice 3d printer!! That would be amazing
@@awo1fman So, it isn't 3D printing?
@@plumber1337 3D printing is additive manufacturing. This thread was started with the idea of a 3D ice printer. Additive manufacturing has very little waste.
Anything like CNC or laser or plasma cutting is subtractive manufacturing. Subtractive manufacturing is very wasteful and inefficient because you're often wasting more material than you're using. Even if the off-cut material is easy to recycle it still takes a lot of energy and work to do so that is not needed with additive methods.
There are pros and cons with both methods, and there are certain types of shapes that are only possible with one or the other.
But the point here is that 3D printing is cool because it seems like magic to watch something grow out of nothing.
With respect to 3D printing with ice, the idea is not only fun but it's the exact opposite of 3D printing with other materials because you would have to freeze the material instead of melting it.
Video idea: Winding a 3D printed electric motor and maybe try to drive something with it?
professional welder here. First thing is your gonna need is a solid metal mig welder. Building material on top of slag is going to be inconsistent at best and will probably be Swiss cheese. Torch angle is better straight on unless you can change the angle for each directional change in the printer.
Video idea: print a submarine moving using a centrifugal pump or the golden ratio impeller
Day 6 of telling integza to build a high temperature resin shell to his ceramic vortex cooled engine to combat leaks
New idea: you should create a liquid piston engine powered by an electrolysis hydrogen reactor
It wouldn't be very efficient though
You need a 2 and 1/2 inch steel plate to prevent warping and you need an inert chamber. you'll also need a high temperature oven to put the parts in after.
Use a turkey to insulate your rocket.
That is ether severe animal abuse crime, or prelude for war.. or least i presume Recep Erdoğan has something to say about that... Also HOW you plan on accomplishing the latter?
@@Hellsong89 gift him a subscription to Manscape...
Video idea: Try 3D printing in metal using the metal filament for FDM printers that you sinter after printing.
Idea: use the welding 3D printer to print out 2D artworks/posters like you did with the red pen - like the Nikola Tesla poster you have in the back.
I suggest putting a blast case using acrylic clear around the base plate, with a hinge in front to reduce any spark's reaching your 3D printer component's. Prevent buildup on unwanted components. Also maybe you could place the metal ontop an ceramic fire brick plate, it might have a reducing effect on the warping effect. Maybe you could water-cool the tip giving you more height and precision control, suggest using a computer water cooler with strong metal heat block, if you want to continue pursuing this adventures. Love your videos and creativity! Please keep making them😊
Also maybe consider cooling the plate your welding on aswell to better control heat and warping of the metal, just some thoughts😁
hello are you using flux cable? It would be better with gas supply. like argon.
good video greetings from Argentina
It's a cheap flux core welder.
An Idea💡 - Have you ever consider making an ion trust engine?
Should be easy, but i doubt you will get any thrust
@@vidiwoodmuzikprodaksons4208 Well, it has the potential - th-cam.com/video/IorDYGI1uqc/w-d-xo.html . Engineers from MIT had some success in making a plane model using this principle - www.dezeen.com/2018/11/23/mit-plane-no-moving-parts-worlds-first-massachusetts-university-technology/
A research paper published in Nature - www.nature.com/articles/s41586-018-0707-9
"how do you draw curves? You don't!"
AcTuaLLy
You can enable G02 and G03 arc support in Marlin and your slicer for much more efficient curves. Instead of breaking the curve down into many segments (lots of lines of gcode) it's able to move in an arc using just one command!
🌠 The More You Know🌠
Using hardware with 25/75 shielding gas with less stick out would leave you with no slag to clean after each pass and less spatter. Angling your nozzle can also push the bead in directions you don’t want it to go since a big concern is accuracy on x and y planes.