I built a Metal 3D Printer using my Welding Machine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2021
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#welding #metal #3dprinter - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Still much better than my welding! Would be interesting to see how much better a flux gas welder would do!
Go mig. Not fluxcore.
even would like to see a TIG variant with an external feed and probably some coding :D
you could try adding a tube to this rig to deliver shielding gas separately from the nozzle as you would only need to flood the surface of what you were welding with gas hooking it into the circuit you use for the trigger would work for a solenoid fairly well adding a slight delay to the welding trigger would also simulate pre-flow that is used on welding machines. the angle is not needed unless you want to see the weld as the machine welds blind the angle is not needed so you can correct that as well if you want.
Yeah use a MIG welder. Flux is too dirty.
Yes you do need to work on your welding.
My Gcode told me to come to this video's coordinates at a rate of F6000
Yes
HAHA good one!
Make an hho generator and a fuel cell
:D
th-cam.com/video/uO5pVLOAmD4/w-d-xo.html
You've revealed my secret reason for going by J. It only takes 4 teslas to spell my name. I'm practically saving the planet.
3
no wait.. actually just one if you bend the exhaust :)
@@donalain69 no exhaust on tesla
@@boomrr07 hmm.. ok.. park a tesla half way on a railway track and wait for the train .. should also make you end up with a J made out of 1 tesla. :)
Edit: dont wait inside the car
@@donalain69 thats not the point lmao
Have you ever heard of lost PLA casting, its a way of creating metal parts out of plastic 3d prints. I believe it would help you build your metal rocket nossle and be an intresting video.
This needs more upvotes. Integza has the drive to make this work.
Integza already has the kiln, and a quick search turned up a furnace/foundry for $300. Bronze melts at around 900 C, so it really sounds like a working solution.
or this printer - th-cam.com/video/4FkzLs7cLes/w-d-xo.html
Good luck mending the metal though
I wonder how you could compensate for the decreased size when you burn off the PLA tho. Will you get a porous metal part with the original size, or a smaller solid piece?
Video Idea: Print a UAV with a rocket engine. Tomatoes are disgusting!
Edit: thank you guys, really thank you for the support. I'm an agricultural engineer ("studying" for the comment below) and a 3D printer can really help my research.
Edit 2: maybe an FPV version can be better to take a look at a tomato up close (when it is burning of course). Remember! Tomatoes are disgusting!
Will Zeki Müren see us too ?
If your a adult you can just buy it for 160€.
@@max-gras what do you mean "adult"? I don't have a job. I am a student.
@@lukearts2954 dude, why are you angry at me? In my country student projects don't get funded.
@@onurk9798 benimkinde de :/
As a professional welder who's pondered this, Ill say you could improve this massively by using normal mig wire and co2 gas, then you won't have slag. Also have the torch 90* to the steel not the ideal angle but atleast its consistent with the drag/push of the arc
Yeah the angle only hurt in this application. The gas would help but Im wondering how thick the metal he's getting is. I can't remember if he mentioned the power limitations of that model.
I agree. i would also dotweld, dot- move-dot- move and so on for a stronger and more consistent weld
I wonder how low deposition rates can get using spray transfer, i don't think short circuit is the way to go for a printer puts too much heat in one spot. i would actually think an automated tig welder where the printer spits out the correct amount of fill would function better with no slag.
yes a TIG setup would be superior, the torch and cable would be a lot lighter and simpler and the ability to pulse and adjust current on the fly (especially if they were controlled by the printing board) would help in controlling heat in the workpiece. plus the best part is you can still feed it from a spool of mig wire using a normal bowden style extruder so you can have feed rate adjustment and retraction just like when 3D printing, just needing to adapt wire drive rollers from a mig into an extruder that can be driven by a stepper.
Yeah, this isn't going to work. Each layer will add stress to the part, until it finally cracks.
When welding thin sheet metal such as in autobody work, they stitch the pieces together or let each weld cool instead of going continuously, which obviously distorts it.
Also using argon/CO2 as your flux instead of a flux core wire will help in production.
Makes it seem so easy... For me just to model a pen holder and 3D print it would be half a day's work... That Nikola fella behind you is very very happy to be in your lab.. Never taking yourself seriously, being happy, not worrying about failures, actually expecting things to go wrong so you learn more... Wow... You are the Man!
"If I can't buy, I DIY." I like it.
That's why on this episode of diy or buy *after the video*
And that's why i declare diy this time the winer (because i can't Buy the Buy option)
You mean BUY or DIY or DIE.
I live by this words. With mixed results.
I wish i could diy
Hi 👋
If my lathe or milling machine could help you in any way, just send me an email. I am not an engineer of course, but I definitely can make some simple stuff :)
😳😳 nozzle problem solved. Lathe can create nozzle curvature. Aluminium will be great for nozzle.
Не думал что встречу альфу на этом канале
О, ничесе!
Кого я вижу!
Это ж сам альфа модс!
Не думал, что ты его смотришь:))
Graphite!
Yeah, this is how I plan to make some nozzles. Metalworking lathes are perfect.
Video idea: make an engine that fuels from wood that powers a lathe , so the wood shavings will be used to power it again
Oh shiii
Another free energy machine...disgusting.
@@suspense_comix3237 he never said anything about free energy, this is more of a longer lasting energy
@@suspense_comix3237 if its a steam engine that fuels on burning wood then its not really an unlimited energy engine
You can use a 3d printed plastic part for the "lost wax" method of metal casting. Aluminum or brass should be achievable with a fairly simple furnace.
Integza: "gcode can only do straight lines"
G02 & G03: "What am I, a joke to you?"
They also do straight lines. The just save you time. The circle is a shape of multiple straight lines with relative angle, for a cnc at least. The stepper motors have some finite accuracy
@@GAS-OR-ASS yes, but for many applications it approaches close enough to a curve that it is effectively a curved toolpath.
@@GAS-OR-ASS Well anything digital has some level of discretization, the question is who calculates the SIN's and COS's :-)
Most 3D printers that run Marlin don't use G02 and G03, you have to activate them in the firmware. Plus, most of the commercially available slicer softwares don't use these, so the get around this by just using G0 and G1
@@cavemaneca **Riemann wants to know your location**
Shouldn’t angle the nozzle like this when building up material and travelling in different directions. Actually did something very similar years ago for repair filler welding using a fully articulated ABB arm robot. We had it oscillate on the axis perpendicular to the travel to gain line width and manage the HAZ. This got us very good and even line height and surprisingly nice finish
So a weave?
I agree though, it would be really cool to see if he could add something so the torch could rotate, like J6 on a robot arm.
Would probably be easiest to just orient the nozzle perpendicular to the surface.
Also thinking tacks would be better for this. Less heat input to prevent warping, penetration isn’t really important.
Was just gonna say that. Lulz at pushing and pulling the tip.
How did you deal with slag in the beads?
@@skipfred probably MIG and not flux core. Or they may have used TIG welder.
@@jakegarrett8109 It's not TIG, there's no such thing as a TIG wire-feed welder
I would LOVE to see a video that explores some cost effective ways to make castings from 3d printed parts at home. There are a lot of tutorials showing how to do lost pla castings or how to use silicone. But all of them require fancy expensive equipment that most of us don't have or cannot afford.
You don't need a crucible, just hold the metal in your hands and take it like a man
I love MIG welding. Had fun in the multiple welding classes that i took. I want to get back into it but just haven't gotten around to it. I love your content dude. Your level of experimental work is awesome and I'm always excited to see what you are going to do next. I really appreciate your respect & passion about Tesla's work & what more u can learn about it and how to adapt it into modern projects 👍🏻
Video Suggestion: You could try making a mold from ceramic filament, and using it to make something out of metal
That was my idea then I come down and see yours sintering is probably the way to go
That's exactly what I suggested Yesterday .... But had zero like lol
the guy just rick rolled everyone with a 2d rick astley in a 3d printer, what a strategy
That WAS the worst i ever heard :D
With a felt tip and missing z-commands!
And guess what song most of us are singing now!
Got here following some of AvE's work/videos/comments. Glad I did. I subscribed. You make some fascinating videos.
Keep making them and i'll keep watching em. Thanks for sharing them.
Just found your channel and I'd say it's my new fav, at least with the kind of material. Keep up the great work!!!
I've never been so happy to get "Rick rolled", well done sir!
Video Idea: Build a 3d printed railgun that can absolutely destroy tomato's with pure kinetic energy (even in the can, where they feel safe)
Why do I & everyone else has the same idea of killing tomatoes in creative ways.
I did this exact thing for my senior project in 2021, had pretty much the same issues as you had. It works, but it isnt pretty and isnt predictable enough, plus the sparks and slag can damage components if you dont have a way to contain it. Also the bed issue is one we had and couldnt solve, even with thick steel it either melts through or warps with enough use
If you try in future, you should consider using a stone chopping board for a bed instead of sheet metal, and a thin wire mesh so the weld has something to bind to.
I don't know much about welding but maybe also a thin layer of water to cool down the base, would pull heat out of the stone before it has time to build up and crack, would also stop the wire mesh from deforming during the base layer. can't wait to see more, good luck!
"Just because an idea seems stupid, does that mean we shouldn't try it? Well, that's exactly what it means, but It doesn't matter. Because I'm going to try it anyway." Lol 😂
From time to time, I say: "We're out of clever ideas now; let's take a stupid one and see if it can work."
his delivery of jokes is top notch lol
I love how you can see the metalsheet bending over time.
You can use plastic to create a mold for pouring molten metal in. 3d print the part, place in mold, melt plastic out of mold using kiln, heat metal to melting point, heat mold to 1000 degrees then pour metal in mold. Finish the part by grinding the excess metal from the pour spout and ensure you have multiple holes to allow air to escape
This is a great concept I’m assuming you’re using flux core wire as opposed to gas I think you get better results with gas and things would stay a little cooler as well but that’s only one small part of the bigger picture this is definitely worth pursuing I think you’re onto something just need a lot more work to get it right I hope you keep playing with this I think it has massive potential👍👊
When he revealed the fan placement, I was just counting down the seconds to major meltdown.
He mite own a welder but he’s clearly never used it😎
Same here
Hey, Integza! I noticed you're a little less pumped up as usual in this video. Don't worry, it's great as always! Just wanted to, as a fan, check if everything is ok.
going bald?
Watch out. He kinda destroys his fans.
@Integza Maybe I'm old and boring but i like your more mellow vibe :)
@@GGozzMontanelas you mean burn them down with molten metal ? XD
I have too many silly ideas and not enough time but another idea I wanted to build was a home made flow bench. Using a MAF sensor from a car and some printed parts. Then use it to see and test dimple porting and add smoke for visual. Also you could simulate erosion and see if you can fix corners and leading edges of parts by forcing laminar flow in said parts or upstream.
*Ideas!* I am so glad to see that you tackled this, and it works! Have you tried on a piece of refractory or pumice block (such as a barbeque scrubber brick)?
That said, the thinness of the metal is bulging up into the workspace causing the shorting. Congratulations on your homework. 600K worth of education here!
"Never say never and never give up!"
Let's see, "I built a Metal 3D Printer using my Welder - Part 2!"
You can do it!
Video idea: try casting metal in sand to make your nozzle. Use a 3d printed nozzle as the mold.
I think the 3d printed mold wouldn't work out, but the casting metal in sand is a good idea.
@@potatosalad68 Yes it would work ; it's called "lost PLA casting", check it out!
+1 good idea but risky
Ya as long as he gets a furnace that can melt at least copper it should work. ones that can melt steel are more expensive
cast a mould out of ceramic from the 3d printer. Two piece or more mould to cast the rocket engine
hi, i thinker about this for a while and i think the solution is to do "print" using mig and spots instead of trying to do a full pass, you could do pauses in the g-code to let everything cool down a bit and then do the next spot. keeping the print surface in an enclosed enviroment full of argon also, may help to keep the cost of argon down
There should be a metal 3d printer using welding filaments in IPT Fraunhofer - Aachen, if you happen to be based nearby and wants to do an outside activity. I was there during 2009 and later. They have also integrated the mechanism to a milling machine, printing and finishing with just one setup, giving a smooth surface at the end. worth the visit.
My years of welding is causing me to cringe while still being intrigued.
i hear ya, he needs at least another axis to rotate the head...
@@peterd-j8698 The part that hurt me the most was when he was welding over parts without removing the slag from the last pass.
But its a mig welder
@@I_am_ENSanity ☆ That's where Skill emerges!
@@espiqueariel1898 No it's a flux core...
Was about to sleep but now... Integza Time!!!
Same
Make an underwater drone?
Engineer Gaming
And then there is me: just woke up😂
Have a good night bro
Soils core with inert gas would keep you from having to grind after every layer.
Hey so here's a suggestion, so my dad is a master mechanic and over the years I've helped and learned to work on cars/trucks etc. When doing body work and your welding 2 pieces of metal together to make your bumper, fender etc whatever it is your working on, the trick to make your piece keep its shape as your welding it is to spot weld it. Spot welding is pretty much a tac weld but you do it so short and quick the metal doesn't get hot. The metal being cold/room temperature as you weld on it is key for it to keep its shape and not twist/warp on you. I hope this suggestion helps! I love all the videos I'm a huge fan 😊
You can make a cast of a 3D printed part to then pour metal in the cast.
VOG th-cam.com/channels/kEYj8wtK3aEW8vSGhlB43g.html
Amazing how close you were to getting this working. A few changes would get you much closer!
1. Find a mill to make a metal clamp for the welding gun.
2. The welding gun doesn't need to be tilted, that's mainly so you can see what you're welding, but you don't need to see.
3. You seem to be using flux cored wire, so you have to clean the slag with each layer. You can avoid this by using gas shielding.
I would love to see you get this to make a metal benchy!
this, would love to see another go at this from @integza
Metal shrink when cooled down and expands when heated. It's called metal shrinkage. The sheet on the bottom bends because it gets pulled together by the printed layers, which eventually cool down and start pulling together creating tension outside and inside the printed area.
good project, the problem is to manage the temperature, the expansion of the metal, the tensions that remain. well is still a good idea
There's an idea that I've thought about a lot, imagine, a roomba robot-style system, but this one for cutting grass! like, a sensor/camera that detects the height of the grass, and automatically launches the robot, in which you define the area where it can work, and that cuts the grass and dumps it in a desired location.
Seria incrível ver essa ideia em termos físicos e reais/it would be amazing to see this idea in physical and real terms!
Roomba-like lawn mowers already exist, though they can be expensive.
@@Stevarooni that's why I suggest to do one, DIY, trying to be low cost
That would be interesting if he put steering on a lawnmower.
Video idea: Instead of 3D printing steel, how about 3D printing tin?
Indeed, judging by the melting temperatures and malleability, you might even be able to insert the regular tin roll into the plastic printing head. If not, you could mabe make it work with some modifications.
It could be used to solder on a board or to make some metal pieces with completely different properties from plastic ones.
Has someone noticed a problem I haven't?
Video idea: Record sound or data on a 3d printed disc or cylinder like vinyl records or Edison wax cylinder.
The resolution would be extremely poor. Even with a resin printer, I don't think you could get anything that would make recognizable sound on a standard format that a player can use. Maybe a CNC could do it, though!
@@4.0.4
I'm thinking it doesn't have to go on a real record player. it could be played back using a needle on a cone while the disc/cylinder is spun on a drill.
you could make the grooves deeper, lumps higher for more movement of needle. you could sand the disc/cylinder down after printing it then record the sound using a cutting needle on some sort of electromagnetic actuator. Edison done it. also someone done it on a Plastic Food Plate
th-cam.com/video/APXXBTwkXSg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=databits
th-cam.com/video/IQi8FUsZ8OY/w-d-xo.html
3d print molds to stamp sheet metal with to form parts for your rocket engines.
Set the infill to 100% and use a vice to actually stamp. You can get pretty decent results.
That performed way better than I was expecting at the beginning of the video. Moving from flux core to really thin solid wire and a shielding gas would help a lot. I also think a think metal baseplate would probably be a requirement. Active cooling on the plate may also help. Very cool idea, I hope you can take the experimenting further with it.
Integza, a perfect synonym for trial and error.
These videos always manage to entertain me on the highest of levels.
You need a 2 and 1/2 inch steel plate to prevent warping and you need an inert chamber. you'll also need a high temperature oven to put the parts in after.
Props love your commentary, subscribed, and belled
"I'm not made of gold" yet gives away 3d printer every video
Those 3d printers arent that expensive.
And he has a sponsor for each video.
@@hubertnnn well just a guess.. hes not buying them :)
well just a guess.. hes not buying them :)
Build your own CNC machine using easily available parts
Indymill cnc
maslow cnc
Baling Wire, Flex Tape & JB-Qwik, plus some paper towel tubes covered in fibreglas & Bondo.
A project I have always wanted to do but never got around to is build a clear crude oil separation processing system. Would be awesome to see you take a swing at it.
May not have had the results you were looking for but the video was great like all of your others :) Keep up the great work!
I totally addicted to his slang and funny attitude
slang? Perhaps you mean accent... ;) slang is native dialect and Integza most definitely is not a native English speaker... (but then, neither are you and I hahaha)
@@lukearts2954 I'm from india, his speech seem different and attractive to me, that's why !!!! :)
Change to MIG. That flux isn't good to weld over. MIG you can just keep stacking it up.
I know nothing about 3D printing but I know a little bit about welding and something that might help you is to change to a welder that uses argon as a shielding gas instead of the flux coating on the wire. Also you can use copper or aluminum for the bed because steel will not stick to it but it can still strike an ark.
You are a very talented engineer!
Thank you for a unique experience! I’ve never been Rick rolled by a 3D printer printer before. I’m honored to have been a part of this social experiment.
try making a robot arm that will cut a tomato into many small pieces like in one of the James Bond movies (I think it was Gold Finger)
Using hardware with 25/75 shielding gas with less stick out would leave you with no slag to clean after each pass and less spatter. Angling your nozzle can also push the bead in directions you don’t want it to go since a big concern is accuracy on x and y planes.
I have been wanting to test the centrifugal limits of printed parts and seeing if you can strengthen them by. After you print your part pre UV cure. Setup a rotary tool probably a die grinder and see if you can find a somewhat steady rpm to spin the piece while your UV cure it. It’s possible it might have some internal stress relief and could make a part be able to spin faster. Making like a dyson style vacuum etc. Or a compressor spool.
Build a fpv drone to shoot cool videos of rockets and flying engines!
probably cant keep up with rockets
@@girinevass8559 Oh boy it can 8)
@@girinevass8559 GWR in vertical ascend velocity is 132 km/h (82 mph): dronedj.com/2019/12/18/princeton-student-breaks-guinness-world-record-for-quadcopter/
IDK what the average diy rocket velocity is, but seems enought to me.
Make an underwater drone
@@hanifnurfaisal5912 that's...a submarine 🤔
Hi Joel I think you could use 3d printed patterns for metal casting to make your rocket engines. It can be stronger.
Yakup has a point. Research lost wax casting and lost plastic casting. The ideal material would be wax, but the only way I could see being able to print with actual wax would require chilling the wax that has left the nozzle and the nozzle itself would be just warm enough to push the wax out like a gel. Lost plastic/resin would be much more simple and cost effective than building a custom wax printer.
@@Circle14 I think the way Robinson Foundry uses on his channel might be useful. He uses lost Pla method with normal 3d printer. Result sculptures are really good. But i dont know will it be useful for rocket engines
@@yakup1937 Myfordboy does lost PLA casting for things such as steam engine parts. Seems he's able to get good results. How far that could go with materials suitable for rockets, who knows? But it shows that mechanical parts can be fabricated with that process as one of the steps.
@@Circle14 why not create a silicone mold using a 3D print, and then pour wax into the silicone mold to get the wax into the right shape for casting? It’d be more expensive and time consuming for the first one, but it would be wax and if you had to make multiple it’d be quicker.
If you move the Z axis could work. Instead of having the angle on the welding nozle you place it straight.
The angle should be on the direction f welding but here all direction can be used so it's not good to have it.
If you place the mast of the Z axis idk 20cm away you can hold the welding torch like you did the last time, with an angle on the bracket so the nozle is 90° in every direction. By deporting the frame you can move the nozle on the complete plate, and if you raise the frame you gain in height.
For the printer the printer head is still at the same spot, you just made an offset because of the shape of the torch.
Hope that it could be clear for someone else than me !
A Few Ideas.
1) pulse your welder to tack one dot at a time, instead of trying to do lines and layers with continuous runs. this will lessen your heat buildup and minimize bed warp. also flux core would be a good idea...
2) use a standard 3D printer to print a part, then make clay sectional molds of it. then just lay a ground wire into the mold's bottom and start tacking dots of weld into the molds cavity, filling it with weld (flux will be essential). once a section is complete, you can use clay to mold the next section and continue it until you've created the full piece.
3) use your ceramics methods to make negative molds and then you can fill them with weld as above. be sure to tack one dot of weld at a time, instead of running lines, as your ceramic may crack or shatter from too much heat. this would require meticulous and slow welding by hand, but should yield a passable piece, for relatively cheap, made of solid metal, and without being a master welder.
Video idea: Make a waterjet (pump) for a rc boat. Design and optimize the pumps impeller pitch, Nozzle diameter and inlet design.
0:22 - you spelled my name!
hah
I think you might be able to do this idea with a TIG welder. There isn't splatter and the torch is smaller. It also can be pulsed and that may help with temp. control. The tricky part would be setting up the wire to be fed into the weld. But I'm sure there is a way to control that. There are many styles of torch heads on the market for TIG too.
youll have to turn your voltage way down and wire speed. it allow the weld to not lay as flat but still stick together
Video idea: Do a competition between you and Tom Stanton to see whose engine makes more power (your rotary engine against his diaphragm engine). The loser has to plant a tomato tree. To make it fair both engines should have the same displacement.
They should also have the same air supply.
Huh, there actually *are* tomato trees. The more you know...
not the collab we deserve but the collab we need
@@LordDragox412 To be honest I wasn't sure what is the proper name of the plant that grows tomatos so I just went with a "tomato tree" XD
@@davidvondracek4994 yea, the tomato never falls far from the tree.... X"D X"D
Got an idea for you: please investigate the use of a ridicule number of extruders at once, in order to 3d print at ludicrous speed. It would be awesome!
Better idea is print a plastic nozzle...use it to make a sand mold and cast the part he wants.
@@brokeandtired Issue is casting in steel, or something even more heat-resistant. Most casting done by amateurs and hobbyists is done in tin or aluminium. You can do this pretty much with stuff found around your house. But it isn't viable for the intended use, i.e. putting a superheated jet stream through it. They would start to deform and drop, or even melt from the heat.
To safely be able to melt and cast bronze, steel or even titanium, you need both the expertise and some specialised equipment that isn't worth getting for an amateur with no interest in taking up serious metal manufacturing, and especially for someone who's likely to just make a few casts.
Making a metal nozzle on a lathe, though... Then we're talking a relatively low risk, and only one piece of machinery which is also quite ubiquitous and multifaceted. There are benchtop metal lathes that you can get for less than 500 euros. That's probably the right way to go for this sort of use.
Did CNC kitchen not doing this yet?
@@HolahkuTaigiTWFormosanDiplomat Maybe I missed, but from what I remember he made video about printing multiple colors. Which could be a nice starting point, but my idea is different.
To get what I thought, try thinking about being able to 3d print with something like old 2d inkjet heads, which have a very large number of nozzles. That of course is very unlikely to obtain without some serious research equipment, but I imagine something that would resemble a raw prototype of that on a more macro scale. Kind of 128 extrusion point at once. What could accomplish a proper setup like that? I searched long for an answer at that question, without finding it.
Of course if you or somebody else could link some work in that direction it would be very appreciated.
no gas on the mig, having a gas flow will help with splatter, keep the nossel cooler, a metal bracket and using aluminium X chanel for the horizontal bar would help, anti splatter, change the speed of wire, and temperature of the electricity
You can build a gasifier type machine using old steel coffee cans some metal tubing (copper even) some random sized tin cans for piping. And it can be adapted to up to.maybe a 10kw generator so that the gasifier powers the generator:) use wood pellets for best results in gasifier
I recommend placing the entire setup in a fish tank you can seal completely and replace the atmosphere with argon or other noble gas. Splashing will be less of a problem and cooling will be much easier.
That machine doesn't have enough power to run regular wire he would need a new rig
Video suggestion: hydro form engine parts out of metal, and then weld them together. With practice and lots of pressure you can make airtight and heat resistant nozzle or engine.
you shoud use a gas (argon or co2 or mix) protected weld (mig/mag). You can modify your welder with electrovalve activated by metal wire feed and add a gas tube inside your gun. If you look there are some tutorials.
Flux core need to clean each weld before start another one.
So, I can't imagine it weld so well! I thought at the same experiment.
You should try also with dots weld (under gas protection), I think it help to reduce temperatures, usually is used to weld thin metals avoiding melt.
I think the new lasers welders are the best choice for some future 3d printers
Integza you should try this with a tig welder. I've seen people make much more complex 3d structures by hand than I have with mig or flux core like you're using. Considering your level of success using what your had you should be able to make something much better with a tig machine.
“If I can’t buy, I DIY” words to live by ☝🏻
Idea for a future video:
You should definitely begin applying your rocket engines to some simple vehicles, such as a little rocket car, and maybe even further down the road an actual rocket.
@integza just point it straight down. It's optimal for every direction being limited to only 3 axes. An go for liquid cooled mig welder. With shielding gas that is. If you tune it right there won't be any splatter and get much longer run times. You could pull it off.
*welder here* you should use welding gun that have watercooling first of all. also welding machine that has a pulse feature, that helps to keep weld heat lower and rise the weld bead higher without melting down with the heat. even if you dont have thicker material, bending the edges of the sheet will give it a stronger structure against deformations.
That's great! I thought of exploring the idea myself after ToT video. As for warping sheet steel will always suck, even thick pieces will bend into banana if You heat them up in such small area. My suggestion is that You can use bunch of short pieces of steel square profile, 20x20x2 mm for example, and weld them together side to side to form bed like this □□□□□□□□□ It won't warp that easy. For the nozzle mount I'd use a cheap pipe bracket and attach it to narrower section just behind the thick black isolator above the metal nozzle, it heats up much slower. You can angle the wire straight down, 90° to the surface. It won't matter. Acually for print it would be ideal to "drag", not to "push" because then the bead is "narrower" but "higher" and it will print in Z axis faster. I think it's an idea worth exploring. Maybe not with this kind of welder though, gasless wire leaves a lot of residue compared to welding even on cheapest solid wire + CO2 or CO2/Ar Mix. Probably best setup is pulse DC TIG + cold wire because it's cleanest and most precise but that would be a big buck and I don't know if You'd bald quickly enough to pay the expense with Keeps sponsorship money xD Please, please, please continue this topic! We all can learn a lot! :D
Here's an idea: How about using carbon fiber for the rocket nozzle. I think it is more durable than ceramic and its not very costly.
The issue isn’t durability but temperature resistance. Carbon fibre can take high temps but the resin used to hold layers together can’t.
Fiberglass might be even better, it’s cheaper, easier to work with, and similarly heat resistant/durable
I dont think that's as much of an issue as you think. He did make his pulse get engine out of carbon fiber and fire place cement and that took the heat quite well. Think it's worth the shot
Man since I started watching your videos I have been i love with your projects and the fun you mix in it is incredible.
I am a mechanical engineering student in India and I would some day like to work with you on some project and I know Gcode too. :D
Should look at redesigning the nozzle so it can be oriented straight up and down. Built a metal frame out of steel tube and tack your thin plate to the still tubing to help with warping.
Get a welder in, let him set up the welder how he likes and time how long he can weld a straight line of specified length, this will give you then desired welder settings and Feed setting for the printer. Also I am no welder but maybe carry on with the nozzle vertical as then there is no variation in height as the nozzle moves to various places. :)
Build a mini bioreactor... and turn tomatoes into energy.
That's actually a cool idea!^^
Methane or alcohols?
This would pair perfectly with a steam engine made from tomato cans. power it with fuel made from the tomatoes.
@@Skwisgar2322 Exactly! Gotta get some use out of tomatoes. Preferably at their expense.
@@CUBETechie Uhh I'm no expert, but I imagine alcohol. Idk the chemistry of it though, that's Integza's job to figure out!
In fact you can program arcs in Gcode with G02 and G03 which is used in milling quite often. Its needed for older machines and manual programming. But with newer machine we can just throw a ton of point commands on it to make it almost round as you said....
also some hardie board it a wall board that is to the most part fire resistant, it has moderately flat profile on one side and embossed pattern on the other, typically found with tiles in the Home despot isles, a 3x5 sheet is sub 15 bucks,
but look out for where construction is taking place and it can typically be found in a skip, for the size you are looking for, a sink cut out would typically work for you.
I think getting some inert gas, typically Argon, Helium or some mix of both,
it is best used again talk to rapid air, or your local wielding supply house,
they will sell or rent tanks, and charge $5 to $10 per liter/gallon,
typical small bottle may be $30 bucks, about 1 to 3 hours gun time.
You may have to get a better machine, which alows the use of gas and has some kind or control valve for the gas,
the Harbor frought machine are getting some acceptance as reasonable wielding machines,
the Vulcan line in particular(possibly)
or better everlast..
If getting a machine make sure if it is gas capable machine
On the machine controls there is a gas flow stop and start times,
this allows a pre flow of gas and a post flow of gas to help cool metal down and remove air to create a inert gas environment prior to wielding initiating.
and the rig for controlling the gas pressure into the machine, some kind of flow meter, / control screw.
With Hardibacker, your experience will vary, under the metal, 1/4 should be fine but 1/2 would be better.
I have a section of 1/4" that I wield on it dose get hot but dose not burn though... so that a thin metal frame to create an air gap.
So I am looking to make some flow forms,
was wondering how U would go about that,
I am thinking of using foamed concrete, and some kind or temporay mold, construct,
You are freaking genius 😵👍
i’ll take 20
Not sure that would be too Weisz
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Have a look at cutting edge engineering on YT and how he welds difficult and very thick hydraulic rods with a rotating machine. He uses argon on fluxless wire to give a clean weld and every two layers cleans the weld with a wire brush on an air tool. You probably need a cnc made of metal to handle the heat and construct layers that are wider. The finished article can then be machined to size using conventional machines. Your approach is a great idea that has a lot of promise for one off productions. Good luck.
You could use a proper MIG welder that is set up as DC Negative Electrode. The splatter is caused by the oscillations in AC. A TIG would problebly work better but the filler material comes in rods rather than wire.
You integza your an inspiration
Video idea: Create a 3D printer that uses rockets to move the extruder.
Also, I don’t need a 3D printer, I just want to see my idea attempted.
yo what xD
you are aware rockets are typically a one time use deal right? yes, you can theoretically make a 3-axis machine using rockets,
1. you wouldn't have very good control at all (rockets dont start or stop very easily)
2. very costly on fuel due to having to battle the rockets to get any kind of control of the "head"
3. it would be VERY slow in comparison. (remember some prints can take days or weeks to complete)
4. that's just stupid.
@@MrGringo466 those are all very good points, but I still think that it would be interesting to see even just a square tried.
You can try metal filaments for FDM printer and you can get stainless steel filaments and print parts and then slintering in Furness for removing mixed material and making highly densed metal part
add a large cup or shield over the nozzle to help with spatter of the flying metal. just an idea