Your channel blows me away at the content, quality. Your reviews are educational, concise, no fluff, and entertaining to watch. I first found your channel when doing research for my Ender S1 Pro, now I'm hooked. You got me interested other things like laser engraving. Thank you so much!
I have had my Xmax for years, it has never let me down once in thousands of prints, I can absolutely recommend this machine to everyone. Great channel and very unbiased and accurate reviews with no froth.👍
I own an X-Max, it's a great machine. The only big issue I have is that the filament sometimes jumps off the spool as it's feeding down into the machine causing it to get tangled and snap. The leveling is ok but I would prefer if it was completely automatic. Other than that the build quality and the prints that it produces are first rate.
Nice review. This was my very first FDM printer, and I feel lucky to have got such a great machine. I didn’t enjoy the bed leveling knobs and springs though, so I swapped them out for silicon spacers and self locking nuts. I’ve added a MK3S+ and a CR-10S Pro V2 to my collection, but I still use the X Max reliably :)
@@Shark00n1337 just about everything lol. Power loss recovery, filament runout sensor, never needing to level, excellent community. The only thing the QIDI has on it is build volume
@@lnt3ch ooof! I'm very undecided between those two. Mainly for R/C and auto parts so good nylon/abs performance is valued. Do you find the Prusa also better in those aspects?
@@Shark00n1337 absolutely. With the QIDI you would have to swap to their ‘All metal’ hot end which isn’t even all metal. The Prusa handles all those materials out of the box.
Thank you for making this review! I just ordered their X-Max 3, but I’ve had the original for about 5 years now and I do have to print slow with fine tuned settings to get very close to modern enclosed prosumer category printers, and need to be extra attentive to the extruder between filament types, but over all still love the thing and excited for the X-Max 3 next month.
Another fantastic video. Great videographic editing, comments and video format. Love the pros, cons and suggestions. Now if QiDi would just make the Max with an IDEX, we would all be :). I look forward to your videos and reviews every week.
Actually warping/bending is not a problem at all with such thick bed made by fine milled casted aluminium. Thats also the reason why there is no ABL - you do not need any compensation for a bend/uneven bed, as it will not bend (or to be more precise: Due to the thickness and material, any "bending" would be within the error range of an ABL-sensor anyway...) This type of bed is definitly the highlight of the printer. All you have to compensate for is practicly a linear expension when heating - so to calibrate z-offset.
@@AuroraTech Thanks. Maybe one adition: While not needing ABL to do a mesh, an ABL-sensor is quite usefull if having multiple z-axis. There can be a disarrangement between the different z-axis ( if they are not physicaly coupled, for example by a belt loop). An ABL-sensor can correct this (but well adjusted multiple z-endstops could do it also). Actually "Bed Leveling" is often used for two total different functions: "Bed Tilt Correction" (Thats manual leveling and best done with 3-point leveling) and "Automatic Mesh Bed Correction" (compensating for bend/uneven bed). Of course, if you measure a mesh of the bed, you automaticly also compensate for any tilt. Since Prusa decided to use ABL only, most people seem not precisely to differ between the two functions anymore... I personaly prefer to call the manual leveling "Tilt adjustment", and the mesh measurment "Automatic Mesh Bed Leveling" (AMBL). Actually, while a thick fine milled casted aluminium bed just need tilt adjustment, thinner ones still need MBL - but the "A" for automatic is questionable, as casted aluminium will always bend the same way on same temperature (unlike rolled aluminium, there internal stresses release after multiple heat/cooling cycles). So for my Sidewinder X1 upgraded to an only 3.5mm fine milled casted aluminium bed, I use Unified Bed Leveling and measured and stored meshes for 60, 90 and 110°C, loading the correct mesh in start-gcode. Due to my lazyness I don't do it manually, but semi-automaticly with a film-probe put on the nozzle - but I only have to redo it after hardware tinkering on the X1 (actually I made a video, but german only). So there are 3 kind of beds: - rolled aluminium or PCB: Need AMBL (and maybe tilt correction if available), exept for very very small beds. - thin fine milled casted aluminium: Need Tilt Correction and "one-time" MBL(exept for smal beds) - best compromise for bed-slingers - thick fine milled aluminium: The "king-class", only tilt correction needed, but heavy and therefore not usefull on bed slingers (and on bigger size best to be mounted stationary, like in deltas and Voron 2.x)
Part of me is saying there's no way in hell I'm going to take purchase advice from a 10-year-old. Then the other part of me is saying, she really does have a point and her review makes total sense...
Hello and thank you so much for your informative presentation and creative solutions. May I ask what you attached your venting system to? Thanks Much, Roy
The space is tight, and it doesn't make that much difference even replacing the roller. Using the stock one by aligning the filament spool first, then inserting the roller would be fine.
They do have a HEPA filter on their next model up that is $1859. It has auto level also. It has linear rails. Maybe the filament sensor. So they had to remove some stuff to sell for the $1000.
Excellent video. I’m currently in the market for a 3D printer and up until the end of your video I thought that this might be the one ☝️. But, because of the cons you mentioned, I think I will pass on this printer. The lack of self leveling, no micro particulate filtering, etc., made me decide against this machine. And what’s up with that door? LOL. I’ll just have to keep looking for the right printer. Thanks again for your review.
The print bed of this printer is so thick, it’s completely level so you don’t need a bed leveling sensor at all. It works much better than other printers with thin bed plus a bltouch. But for the fans, yes, just dust filters and the door is flimsy. But I still think this would be the most solid hardware you can get for $1000.
I bought it last week so far so good if you can do a mod video for this printer to reach 400 c degrees or maybe 500 c it would be great since i think this machine stiff bulid could handle that level of temp thanks for your good videos
I think the hotend assembly is not that easy to upgrade unless you redesign the whole thing and just keep the PCB to connect the fans, heat cartridge, and thermistor. When you make it able to reach 400-500C, you may want to print something like PEEK or PEKK, but these materials not only require a 400C+ hotend, but also require a 150C+ print bed and a 90C+ chamber. The plastic enclosure may not be capable of doing that.
I love watching your channel for the reviews on machines. I wish I found it sooner! I just purchased a Qidi X-Plus II - it should arrive after this weekend. Have you by chance gotten your hands on this machine yet and tested it out? I look forward to the video if you have gotten this. As of right now, I have found next to no reviews on youtube for this particular printer.
@@johanlarsson3638 I like it, it prints really well, but it is incredibly loud and the build plate is really small. I didn't realize the bed was so small. :(
How would you compare this to the Prusa Mk3S+? I’m looking to add a 3D printer to my business machine line up. My priorities are print quality then speed then cost. Your videos are awesome and I enjoy watching them.
Great video! I'm actually interested buying one. Can you please tell me if you tried printing on max speed of 600mm/s and what was the result of the print ? Also , do you have any clues regarding power consumption per hour ?
hi, any info and on why after ungarding the sofware i cant set up the wifi, it alwas say feliure after puting the pasword, haw about the sped in this printer, how can i makeit print faster? is it posible ? it allaws is set to 60mm/s can i chageit to 100 or 200 for pla?? thaks
Hello, I just got an X MAX printer. I am having trouble with the software. Two things: I cannot get the prints to transfer over WIFI, and more importantly, all of my files are printing hollow. What do I do to fix these things? Thanks!
Thank you very much for your review and we hope you can have a good time with it！And welcome to follow our official account to get the latest products and event news！
I am confused as to the reason why a low temperature and high-temperature hotend is required, is the high-temperature one incapable of printing filament at lower temperatures? I wish they would make one with 300X300X400 size! There was some ringing on the X on the calibration cube which was not mentioned!
If you are using different materials with the same hotend, for example, printing 300C PC then 200C PLA, the PC filament left behind the hotend/nozzle may not be able to melt completely and may clog your nozzle. Also, when printing with abrasive filament, we want to use a hardened steel nozzle, but when printing other materials, a brass nozzle is always better in terms of thermal conductivity.
@@AuroraTech While this is true, the main reason for a low heat hotend is PLA being quite sticky inside the heatbreak, as it's glas transition temperature is so low (about 60°C). There is a reason many printers do not have an all metal hotend. The best any special treatment with special coatings inside the heatbreak (like done by e3d, mivroswiss etc.) can achive is being only "nearly as unsticky" as a PTFE inliner. PTFE is still the best material inside a heatbreak for PLA-printing. So using diferent hotends (mainly different heatbreaks), one for materials inside the recommended operating temperatures for PTFE with its ultra low friction and one for materials needing higher temperatures is definitly still the best solution.
@@AuroraTech I wanted to use a copper nozzle with diamond tip, but they don’t make them in mk10 size. Plus you can’t change the high temp nozzle I am told.
@@rsilvers129 "is anealed" makes no sense. Anealing is a post-processing technique about reheating a material, to allow the internal stresses to go away, and cool down slowly in a controlled matter. This increases the heat deflection temperature due to the optimiced orientation/rebounding of the polymer. As any effect of anealing goes away when melting a material, there is no "pre-anealed" material - it would be not usefull to aneal a material before printing. But materials made for anealing often have aditives in the mixture also rising glas transition temperature a bit and resulting in a mat finish. For myself I use Greentec pro much often; this is also material intended to be anealed afterwards - but I actually do not aneal the prints, as I mostly do not need the higher deflection temperature. Also as you have to calculate dimention changes before printing, I simply want to spare the efford.
This X-Max has been around for 2-3 years and has a much better hardware configuration. Flash forge seems to be the one who clones others, you can see how similar their printers are compared to those old Makerbot models.
Aurora Do you do any pay phone calls for tech help? I'm new to all this stuff and need some help with a SKR mini and a TFT 35 screen. If you do paid phone calls please let me know. Great video as always and that new printer really looks good. Please let me know if It's possible to have a phone call, thanks.
If I don't have physical access to the printer or am able to swap out some parts for testing, it may not be easy to address the issue. I suggest you can contact BTT support, and tell them what printer you are using, if you are using some popular machines like Ender 3/Pro/V2, they should have something ready to use and send you a precompiled firmware.bin file.
@@AuroraTech Hi Aurora, I tried that and they never got back to me. Its an Ender 3 pro, I just cant get the run out sensor to work. I have it plugged into the TFT 35. It wont work and it keeps stopping the print with an Emulated M600. The printing stops, I then need to shut the power, go back to the USB drive and try and print again. Then it resumes. This could happen a few times during a print. No seems to be able to figure out whats wrong. The machine is only 2 months old, Maybe I just need to buy a different machine. Ok thanks for getting back to me.
Don't buy another machine, it's not the machine or MB problems, just try some different settings should fix that, since I have no access to the hardware, my best guess is to check/change these lines of the touch screen config.ini: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware/blob/master/Copy%20to%20SD%20Card%20root%20directory%20to%20update/config.ini Line: 109 #0=disable, 1=enable emulated_m600:1 Liine 681 #0=disable, 1=enable fil_runout:1 Depending on your sensor is NC(normal close or normal open), you may also need to change the line 693: # Normal Open: 0, Normal Close: 1 fil_runout_nc:1
@@AuroraTech Ok good news I changed my setting that you told me and this setup seems to be working.I cant thank you enough. I am going to get a big platform printer maybe 400x400. I would love to tell you the ones I'm looking at and see what would be the best one for me. Again thank you so much. You are so young and so so smart. You and your parents should be very very proud of you. I'll be in touch with the ones I want to get. Maybe if you have a link I will use your link and you get some money from the sale. #### Filament Runout Sensor # Select the type of filament runout sensor and its default enabled/disabled state. # Options: [Normal Disabled: 0, Normal Enabled: 1, Smart Disabled: 2, Smart Enabled: 3] fil_runout:3 #### Inverted Filament Runout Sensor Logic # The sensor uses an inverted logic. # Disable it in case filament runout is triggered by a LOW signal. # Enable it in case filament runout is triggered by a HIGH signal. # Options: [disable: 0, enable: 1] fil_runout_inverted:0 #### NC (Normal Close) Filament Runout Sensor # The sensor is of type NC. # Options: [Normal Open: 0, Normal Close: 1] fil_runout_nc:1 #### Filament Runout Noise Threshold # Pause print when filament runout is detected at least for this time period. # Unit: [time in milliseconds] # Value range: [min: 10, max: 1800] fil_runout_noise_threshold:100 #### Smart Filament Runout Detection # Used in conjunction with an SFS (Smart Filament Sensor) based on an encoder disc that # toggles runout pin as filament moves. # Unit: [distance in mm] # Value range: [min: 1, max: 50] fil_runout_distance:3
That's awesome! I am glad that you did it! One more thing, if you are using the BTT smart sensor, you may want to set the fil_runout_distance to 7 or 10, since you don't want the retraction or print head movement to trigger a false runout signal.
yikes, this 3d printers go up fast. looking for my first 3d printer. started looking at ender 3 now here I am drooling over 1k printer. wife is going to shit herself...
@@AuroraTech I could bewrong then, i never saw qidi nozzles offered in other sizes than 0.4 and 0.2 and their slicer has no options for choosing a bigger nozzle
Thank you very much. At this rate your parents will have to move to a warehouse to accommodate all your 3D printers.
Yeah!! The parents will have to move to the warehouse.
The printers can stay in the real house! It's called priorities. 😉
Your channel blows me away at the content, quality. Your reviews are educational, concise, no fluff, and entertaining to watch. I first found your channel when doing research for my Ender S1 Pro, now I'm hooked. You got me interested other things like laser engraving. Thank you so much!
I have had my Xmax for years, it has never let me down once in thousands of prints, I can absolutely recommend this machine to everyone. Great channel and very unbiased and accurate reviews with no froth.👍
Hi, did you ever made a print in place using PETG? Is this even possible? Thanks
Another awesome video. You're making researching, testing and making-videos look easy. And they are excellent. Thank you so much, Mark.
We finally get to see your brother on video! You guys are awesome!
I own an X-Max, it's a great machine. The only big issue I have is that the filament sometimes jumps off the spool as it's feeding down into the machine causing it to get tangled and snap. The leveling is ok but I would prefer if it was completely automatic. Other than that the build quality and the prints that it produces are first rate.
Nice review. This was my very first FDM printer, and I feel lucky to have got such a great machine. I didn’t enjoy the bed leveling knobs and springs though, so I swapped them out for silicon spacers and self locking nuts.
I’ve added a MK3S+ and a CR-10S Pro V2 to my collection, but I still use the X Max reliably :)
What about the Qidi was missing that made you get the Prusa? Thanks!
@@Shark00n1337 just about everything lol. Power loss recovery, filament runout sensor, never needing to level, excellent community. The only thing the QIDI has on it is build volume
@@lnt3ch ooof! I'm very undecided between those two. Mainly for R/C and auto parts so good nylon/abs performance is valued. Do you find the Prusa also better in those aspects?
@@Shark00n1337 absolutely. With the QIDI you would have to swap to their ‘All metal’ hot end which isn’t even all metal. The Prusa handles all those materials out of the box.
Awesome printer view! Great closeups and explanations. Thanks and keep it up.
Thank you for making this review! I just ordered their X-Max 3, but I’ve had the original for about 5 years now and I do have to print slow with fine tuned settings to get very close to modern enclosed prosumer category printers, and need to be extra attentive to the extruder between filament types, but over all still love the thing and excited for the X-Max 3 next month.
Another fantastic video. Great videographic editing, comments and video format. Love the pros, cons and suggestions. Now if QiDi would just make the Max with an IDEX, we would all be :). I look forward to your videos and reviews every week.
They do. It’s called the iFast.
Thank you for providing this great video!
Wow, great review
Great printer
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Once again a great video. Your channel is the best 3d printing channel on TH-cam imo
You should pre-heat the printer before doing bed leveling as with heat the build plate will warp some
Actually warping/bending is not a problem at all with such thick bed made by fine milled casted aluminium. Thats also the reason why there is no ABL - you do not need any compensation for a bend/uneven bed, as it will not bend (or to be more precise: Due to the thickness and material, any "bending" would be within the error range of an ABL-sensor anyway...)
This type of bed is definitly the highlight of the printer. All you have to compensate for is practicly a linear expension when heating - so to calibrate z-offset.
Pre-heating before leveling isn’t needed in this case
@@oleurgast730 Good to know thanks
That's the best explanation!
@@AuroraTech Thanks.
Maybe one adition: While not needing ABL to do a mesh, an ABL-sensor is quite usefull if having multiple z-axis. There can be a disarrangement between the different z-axis ( if they are not physicaly coupled, for example by a belt loop). An ABL-sensor can correct this (but well adjusted multiple z-endstops could do it also).
Actually "Bed Leveling" is often used for two total different functions: "Bed Tilt Correction" (Thats manual leveling and best done with 3-point leveling) and "Automatic Mesh Bed Correction" (compensating for bend/uneven bed). Of course, if you measure a mesh of the bed, you automaticly also compensate for any tilt. Since Prusa decided to use ABL only, most people seem not precisely to differ between the two functions anymore...
I personaly prefer to call the manual leveling "Tilt adjustment", and the mesh measurment "Automatic Mesh Bed Leveling" (AMBL). Actually, while a thick fine milled casted aluminium bed just need tilt adjustment, thinner ones still need MBL - but the "A" for automatic is questionable, as casted aluminium will always bend the same way on same temperature (unlike rolled aluminium, there internal stresses release after multiple heat/cooling cycles). So for my Sidewinder X1 upgraded to an only 3.5mm fine milled casted aluminium bed, I use Unified Bed Leveling and measured and stored meshes for 60, 90 and 110°C, loading the correct mesh in start-gcode. Due to my lazyness I don't do it manually, but semi-automaticly with a film-probe put on the nozzle - but I only have to redo it after hardware tinkering on the X1 (actually I made a video, but german only).
So there are 3 kind of beds:
- rolled aluminium or PCB: Need AMBL (and maybe tilt correction if available), exept for very very small beds.
- thin fine milled casted aluminium: Need Tilt Correction and "one-time" MBL(exept for smal beds) - best compromise for bed-slingers
- thick fine milled aluminium: The "king-class", only tilt correction needed, but heavy and therefore not usefull on bed slingers (and on bigger size best to be mounted stationary, like in deltas and Voron 2.x)
Part of me is saying there's no way in hell I'm going to take purchase advice from a 10-year-old. Then the other part of me is saying, she really does have a point and her review makes total sense...
Girl you are wise beyond your years. I hope your parents are proud of you. I certainly would be.
Another perfect video...I think i am a fan :)
Hello and thank you so much for your informative presentation and creative solutions. May I ask what you attached your venting system to? Thanks Much, Roy
It just a 4" ducting to exhaust the air outside.
Great video and very informative. Does the carbon fiber filament reel have to be placed inside the printer case?
The space is tight, and it doesn't make that much difference even replacing the roller. Using the stock one by aligning the filament spool first, then inserting the roller would be fine.
Impressive. I'm honestly torn between this model and the XCF Pro.
They just released the xmax 2 -so thats the one you should aim for
@@hg1496 Do you have any direct link to this? What are the differences?
please, could you review the successor of this printer?
The Qidi 3 Plus and 3 Max?
They do have a HEPA filter on their next model up that is $1859. It has auto level also. It has linear rails. Maybe the filament sensor. So they had to remove some stuff to sell for the $1000.
Excellent video. I’m currently in the market for a 3D printer and up until the end of your video I thought that this might be the one ☝️. But, because of the cons you mentioned, I think I will pass on this printer. The lack of self leveling, no micro particulate filtering, etc., made me decide against this machine. And what’s up with that door? LOL. I’ll just have to keep looking for the right printer. Thanks again for your review.
The print bed of this printer is so thick, it’s completely level so you don’t need a bed leveling sensor at all. It works much better than other printers with thin bed plus a bltouch. But for the fans, yes, just dust filters and the door is flimsy. But I still think this would be the most solid hardware you can get for $1000.
@@AuroraTech Thanks for your reply. I’ll watch the video once more with your comments in mind.
I bought it last week so far so good if you can do a mod video for this printer to reach 400 c degrees or maybe 500 c it would be great since i think this machine stiff bulid could handle that level of temp thanks for your good videos
I think the hotend assembly is not that easy to upgrade unless you redesign the whole thing and just keep the PCB to connect the fans, heat cartridge, and thermistor. When you make it able to reach 400-500C, you may want to print something like PEEK or PEKK, but these materials not only require a 400C+ hotend, but also require a 150C+ print bed and a 90C+ chamber. The plastic enclosure may not be capable of doing that.
I love watching your channel for the reviews on machines. I wish I found it sooner! I just purchased a Qidi X-Plus II - it should arrive after this weekend. Have you by chance gotten your hands on this machine yet and tested it out? I look forward to the video if you have gotten this. As of right now, I have found next to no reviews on youtube for this particular printer.
Do you like the X-Plus ll?
I'm thinking of ordering one, Qidi seems to have great printers.
@@johanlarsson3638 I like it, it prints really well, but it is incredibly loud and the build plate is really small. I didn't realize the bed was so small. :(
wow that is a every cool 3d printer my friend
How would you compare this to the Prusa Mk3S+? I’m looking to add a 3D printer to my business machine line up. My priorities are print quality then speed then cost. Your videos are awesome and I enjoy watching them.
Could you provide a link to your "X-Max-DuctAdapter" that you showed in this video please? Great Job on all of this!
Great video! I'm actually interested buying one. Can you please tell me if you tried printing on max speed of 600mm/s and what was the result of the print ? Also , do you have any clues regarding power consumption per hour ?
Excellent review
Great video as usual, are you planning on a video for the KOBRA MAX?
I am sure I will if they send me one :)
very good review
hi, any info and on why after ungarding the sofware i cant set up the wifi, it alwas say feliure after puting the pasword, haw about the sped in this printer, how can i makeit print faster? is it posible ? it allaws is set to 60mm/s can i chageit to 100 or 200 for pla?? thaks
beautiful and talented girl🥰🥰🥰
Great job
Hello, I just got an X MAX printer. I am having trouble with the software. Two things: I cannot get the prints to transfer over WIFI, and more importantly, all of my files are printing hollow. What do I do to fix these things? Thanks!
Please review a Markforge printer, thanks
I am sure I will if they send me one :)
Hello, what economical printer do you recommend that can print nylon?
Anycubic kobra when?????
When they send me one to review :)
Can you post the files you used for connecting the actual PC fan to the register?
Thank you very much for your review and we hope you can have a good time with it！And welcome to follow our official account to get the latest products and event news！
👍🏻👍🏻
🖒👍🖒 well done!!!
I am confused as to the reason why a low temperature and high-temperature hotend is required, is the high-temperature one incapable of printing filament at lower temperatures?
I wish they would make one with 300X300X400 size!
There was some ringing on the X on the calibration cube which was not mentioned!
If you are using different materials with the same hotend, for example, printing 300C PC then 200C PLA, the PC filament left behind the hotend/nozzle may not be able to melt completely and may clog your nozzle. Also, when printing with abrasive filament, we want to use a hardened steel nozzle, but when printing other materials, a brass nozzle is always better in terms of thermal conductivity.
@@AuroraTech While this is true, the main reason for a low heat hotend is PLA being quite sticky inside the heatbreak, as it's glas transition temperature is so low (about 60°C). There is a reason many printers do not have an all metal hotend. The best any special treatment with special coatings inside the heatbreak (like done by e3d, mivroswiss etc.) can achive is being only "nearly as unsticky" as a PTFE inliner. PTFE is still the best material inside a heatbreak for PLA-printing. So using diferent hotends (mainly different heatbreaks), one for materials inside the recommended operating temperatures for PTFE with its ultra low friction and one for materials needing higher temperatures is definitly still the best solution.
@@oleurgast730 from now on I am only using Polymaker Pro PLA. It is annealed and has a 140C first transition. Also it has a nice matte finish.
@@AuroraTech I wanted to use a copper nozzle with diamond tip, but they don’t make them in mk10 size. Plus you can’t change the high temp nozzle I am told.
@@rsilvers129 "is anealed" makes no sense. Anealing is a post-processing technique about reheating a material, to allow the internal stresses to go away, and cool down slowly in a controlled matter. This increases the heat deflection temperature due to the optimiced orientation/rebounding of the polymer.
As any effect of anealing goes away when melting a material, there is no "pre-anealed" material - it would be not usefull to aneal a material before printing.
But materials made for anealing often have aditives in the mixture also rising glas transition temperature a bit and resulting in a mat finish. For myself I use Greentec pro much often; this is also material intended to be anealed afterwards - but I actually do not aneal the prints, as I mostly do not need the higher deflection temperature. Also as you have to calculate dimention changes before printing, I simply want to spare the efford.
can you please share the air reflicter desing files thank u for ur helpfull videos
Sure, but I don't think it's a very good design:
www.printables.com/model/208795
Круто👍🇷🇺
I heard it is really slow.
The Qidi is a flash forge clone, right?
This X-Max has been around for 2-3 years and has a much better hardware configuration. Flash forge seems to be the one who clones others, you can see how similar their printers are compared to those old Makerbot models.
Aurora Do you do any pay phone calls for tech help? I'm new to all this stuff and need some help with a SKR mini and a TFT 35 screen. If you do paid phone calls please let me know. Great video as always and that new printer really looks good. Please let me know if It's possible to have a phone call, thanks.
If I don't have physical access to the printer or am able to swap out some parts for testing, it may not be easy to address the issue. I suggest you can contact BTT support, and tell them what printer you are using, if you are using some popular machines like Ender 3/Pro/V2, they should have something ready to use and send you a precompiled firmware.bin file.
@@AuroraTech Hi Aurora, I tried that and they never got back to me. Its an Ender 3 pro, I just cant get the run out sensor to work. I have it plugged into the TFT 35. It wont work and it keeps stopping the print with an Emulated M600. The printing stops, I then need to shut the power, go back to the USB drive and try and print again. Then it resumes. This could happen a few times during a print. No seems to be able to figure out whats wrong. The machine is only 2 months old, Maybe I just need to buy a different machine. Ok thanks for getting back to me.
Don't buy another machine, it's not the machine or MB problems, just try some different settings should fix that, since I have no access to the hardware, my best guess is to check/change these lines of the touch screen config.ini:
github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware/blob/master/Copy%20to%20SD%20Card%20root%20directory%20to%20update/config.ini
Line: 109
#0=disable, 1=enable
emulated_m600:1
Liine 681
#0=disable, 1=enable
fil_runout:1
Depending on your sensor is NC(normal close or normal open), you may also need to change the line 693:
# Normal Open: 0, Normal Close: 1
fil_runout_nc:1
@@AuroraTech Ok good news I changed my setting that you told me and this setup seems to be working.I cant thank you enough. I am going to get a big platform printer maybe 400x400. I would love to tell you the ones I'm looking at and see what would be the best one for me. Again thank you so much. You are so young and so so smart. You and your parents should be very very proud of you. I'll be in touch with the ones I want to get. Maybe if you have a link I will use your link and you get some money from the sale.
#### Filament Runout Sensor
# Select the type of filament runout sensor and its default enabled/disabled state.
# Options: [Normal Disabled: 0, Normal Enabled: 1, Smart Disabled: 2, Smart Enabled: 3]
fil_runout:3
#### Inverted Filament Runout Sensor Logic
# The sensor uses an inverted logic.
# Disable it in case filament runout is triggered by a LOW signal.
# Enable it in case filament runout is triggered by a HIGH signal.
# Options: [disable: 0, enable: 1]
fil_runout_inverted:0
#### NC (Normal Close) Filament Runout Sensor
# The sensor is of type NC.
# Options: [Normal Open: 0, Normal Close: 1]
fil_runout_nc:1
#### Filament Runout Noise Threshold
# Pause print when filament runout is detected at least for this time period.
# Unit: [time in milliseconds]
# Value range: [min: 10, max: 1800]
fil_runout_noise_threshold:100
#### Smart Filament Runout Detection
# Used in conjunction with an SFS (Smart Filament Sensor) based on an encoder disc that
# toggles runout pin as filament moves.
# Unit: [distance in mm]
# Value range: [min: 1, max: 50]
fil_runout_distance:3
That's awesome! I am glad that you did it! One more thing, if you are using the BTT smart sensor, you may want to set the fil_runout_distance to 7 or 10, since you don't want the retraction or print head movement to trigger a false runout signal.
yikes, this 3d printers go up fast. looking for my first 3d printer. started looking at ender 3 now here I am drooling over 1k printer. wife is going to shit herself...
You forgot another downside : you can only use 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 nozzle with it
I don’t understand, there are 0.6, 0.8 and 1.0mm MK10 nozzles available, why can’t you use them?
@@AuroraTech the high temp extruder nozzle cannot be removed without damaging the internal shaft. The box has a label saying not to remove it.
@@AuroraTech I could bewrong then, i never saw qidi nozzles offered in other sizes than 0.4 and 0.2 and their slicer has no options for choosing a bigger nozzle
They just use standard MK10 nozzles, I can't see why this printer can't print with a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle, but I will ask QiDi support about that.
This is incorrect. The printer uses MK10 nozzles and they can be swapped for multiple alternative sizes.
My prusa mk3 prints better than this 🤣
May i request voron trident pls
Can your prusa print nylon and carbon fiber?
It’s a bad chinese printer. Just get a prusa.