I just replaced my vacuum pump and power steering pump on my 95 with a later model 2 piece vacuum, new seals , and a higher pressure and flow power steering pump . I used a new 1/8 hose for a grease gun to screw into the block then a brass t on the end of the hose for the senson and a manual gauge ... there were a few things i had to deal with ..The oil feed is in a different location on the 2 piece vacuum pump and the bracket that holds the return spring hits the tank on the power steering pump. I cut off part of it and redrilled the hole .. i was told years ago the ecm manufacturers the pressure at the gauge if a minimum pressure is at the sending unit .. Thanks for the videos
You wanna know if you have oil pressure? Undo the little 1/4 NPT plug at the top of your oil filter, its a 11mm socket or wrench. Then start your truck lol But seriously, take a 4 inch NPT pipe x 1/4 and screw it in that hole then a coupler that will accept a 1/4 pressure gauge. You will see the REAL TIME oil pressure. ***Do not start your engine with that plug out unless you want to see a 4 foot eruption of oil all over your motor***
Rob, another great video! i reposted it in the cummins forum thread since it seems to be a common problem. Would love to have more info on adding shims to the over-pressure spring for performance applications. Thanks again!
I have a 96 12v with a manual gauge plumbed to the original sending unit location. I get about 20-22 psi at hot idle in park. Is that normal or on the low side.
Is there a way to bump my oil pressure & volume on an 01 Dodge Cummins? I'm running compound turbos & want to install a Spinner II centrafuge system & T into my front block return for my small turbo. Can I run a dual spring to my stock setup or just shim the main spring? 160,000 miles original... want to filter the soot out of my oil between changes. Love your content! I'm a Cummins engine fan but a Chevy guy, building 2 custom chevy trucks with Dodge- Ram 4wd chassis & a mix of other parts like an Allison in the one. Thanks D
Would a low idle problem be related to the low oil pressure? Mine idles at around 500 in gear. Had to raise the park idle to around 1100 so it would not die. Oil pressure drops low every now and then.
@@CUTTERUPROB for idle oil pressure out of gear (neutral in a manual truck) what would you say is "too low", and then "normal", and "oddly high" for warm idle of a 12V or P24V with normal oil (10w30, 10w40, T5 etc)..?
@@CUTTERUPROB another question.. how long a delay do you generally see for a cold engine in summer after start-up? I mean on an actual mechanical gauge, what kind of delay to build oil pressure in the engine after it fires?
@@CUTTERUPROB thanks for the quick reply man just did my oil filter housing 2003 5.9 gotta finish it up tomorrow. I found a few forms saying Oil Pressure Regulator-Plug 80 nwts - 59 ft Lbs. Not 100% if that’s accurate I know it was a bit tough coming off
Hey man quick question if I can. I have a 92 215hp swapped, 5x14, 4ks, 60lb springs, arp 2000s, stock he351. My power steering pump needs resealed and will that make my truck have crankcase pressure and blow oil out the fill tube cuz I have a filter there?
Hey Rob Awesome educational video, brother! Quick question, I just finished installing my 98 12v Cummins back in the truck today. I primed it and remove the air from the fuel lines and still wouldn’t crank on. It almost did a couple of time and after trying several times I decided to stop. It shouldn’t take this much to start up. I feel like it could be my timing. It set it to 24 degrees using the degree wheel method. I rotated the engine counterclockwise 11 degrees and clockwise 1 degree to take care of the gear lash. So the time is set to 24 now. White smoke is coming out while cranking it on. Engine has a compound S363 and S478, 887 ppump with 6k rpm springs. 60lbs valve springs, 9/16 push rods and 5x18 injectors. Please let me know your thoughts, it would be greatly appreciate it. Thanks brother for your time.
@@Taintmilker No. I did not touch my afc housing. I took it apart to send the block and head to a machine shop and once I got them back, I put it back together like it was before.
@onemanoperation5459 okay well i had the same exact problem and it took forever to figure out but my afc housing was slid either too far back and I think my fuel plate was also too.far one way if I remember correctly.
@@Taintmilker it’s really weird to be honest. I have to the AFV controller from PDD and it was working fine prior the rebuilding. Its very frustrating. This is as far as my knowledge goes lol. I appreciate your input and for replying. Have a blessed day.
👍👍...had a guy have an incident with a pond and an excavator with a QSB..got water in the crankcase..Changed the oil a couple different times.obviously.. months later in the summer the oil pressure light came on occasionally when hot at idle.. checked with mechanical gauge..it wasn't lying,as the pressure was 35 or so at max rpm.. just below 10 at idle...i swapped spring and plunger .. didn't change.... needless to say,it may have a Little more bearing clearance cause it may, perhaps have not liked the fishy pond water getting pumped through it,🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 but that's been almost 2 years ago, and the machine is still working....but anyway 👍👍👊🤘
How low can you run a 6.7 low on oil I changed my oil on my truck and after two weeks I installed a exhaust brake and was running for about a minute and dumped 2 gallon of oil on the ground found out somehow the filter seal was damaged I did have a damage to the box but long story short it pukes 2 gallon on the ground before I shut it off did I hurt it ?
Got a 96 12v that's slow to build oil pressure. Mechanical gauge plumbed to filter head. Takes 10-20 seconds in warm weather, longer in cold weather. Once it makes pressure it's 50lb running down the road. Anybody got any ideas? Been through all the forums and haven't found anything that fits my situation.
So I’m trying to figure my problem which is the opposite. I have consistent way high pressure and it’s pushing oil out of tappet cover gasket and when i am throttle happy it BLOWS as in a gallon or more out the slobber tube. I have plenty of crankcase ventilation and the gauge shows about 70psi consistent. Hot cold any rpm.
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Wew! Im safe. 30/35 psi warm idle, 50 psi warm on throttle and 75 psi cold start.
Appreciate your effort. Waiting on a sensor to arrive on my 12 valve as I type. Hope it fixes mine.
Lots of times it does.
I just replaced my vacuum pump and power steering pump on my 95 with a later model 2 piece vacuum, new seals , and a higher pressure and flow power steering pump . I used a new 1/8 hose for a grease gun to screw into the block then a brass t on the end of the hose for the senson and a manual gauge ... there were a few things i had to deal with ..The oil feed is in a different location on the 2 piece vacuum pump and the bracket that holds the return spring hits the tank on the power steering pump. I cut off part of it and redrilled the hole .. i was told years ago the ecm manufacturers the pressure at the gauge if a minimum pressure is at the sending unit .. Thanks for the videos
You wanna know if you have oil pressure? Undo the little 1/4 NPT plug at the top of your oil filter, its a 11mm socket or wrench. Then start your truck lol
But seriously, take a 4 inch NPT pipe x 1/4 and screw it in that hole then a coupler that will accept a 1/4 pressure gauge. You will see the REAL TIME oil pressure.
***Do not start your engine with that plug out unless you want to see a 4 foot eruption of oil all over your motor***
Great vid as always. Thanks again brother
Thanks brother
Rob, another great video! i reposted it in the cummins forum thread since it seems to be a common problem. Would love to have more info on adding shims to the over-pressure spring for performance applications. Thanks again!
Thanks sounds good
I have a 96 12v with a manual gauge plumbed to the original sending unit location. I get about 20-22 psi at hot idle in park. Is that normal or on the low side.
Bit on the low side. But if when you have it at let’s say 1800. It’s over 40psi you should never hurt anything
Would you mind doing a short on your DIY coolant bypass setup? And what are the side affects of the hose you deleted in the process? @ 3:28
I will be. It’s on the list. It’s just a bit of work the way I want to do it
Is there a way to bump my oil pressure & volume on an 01 Dodge Cummins? I'm running compound turbos & want to install a Spinner II centrafuge system & T into my front block return for my small turbo. Can I run a dual spring to my stock setup or just shim the main spring? 160,000 miles original... want to filter the soot out of my oil between changes. Love your content! I'm a Cummins engine fan but a Chevy guy, building 2 custom chevy trucks with Dodge- Ram 4wd chassis & a mix of other parts like an Allison in the one. Thanks D
You can shim the relief .050-.060
Very very Thanks MR Deare RUP❤❤❤❤❤
great info
I put a mechanical oil gauge on top of the oil filter housing and at idle I’m reading 35 psi …
Is that good ?
Would a low idle problem be related to the low oil pressure? Mine idles at around 500 in gear. Had to raise the park idle to around 1100 so it would not die. Oil pressure drops low every now and then.
It’s correlated for sure. If you have 15psi at idle and 35-40 at 1800 your ok
@@CUTTERUPROB for idle oil pressure out of gear (neutral in a manual truck) what would you say is "too low", and then "normal", and "oddly high" for warm idle of a 12V or P24V with normal oil (10w30, 10w40, T5 etc)..?
@@jojo88898 30-40 is normal on most trucks. At idle I like At least 30 hot myself
12v 15w40 here oil pressure never drops below 30 average of 40ish
What size deep well socket fits the oil pressure sensor I've tried everything except metric
I noticed your truck has the same delay from start up to when the gauge moves as my truck, is that normal? You didn’t seem concerned.
Yep there just like that. Truck also had been there all day long
@@CUTTERUPROB another question.. how long a delay do you generally see for a cold engine in summer after start-up? I mean on an actual mechanical gauge, what kind of delay to build oil pressure in the engine after it fires?
How do you install the copper oil bypass valve into the housing? Just it just get pressed in with hammer and socket?
Yep
Torque specs on the plug that goes above the spring? Should I use some thread sealant or O ring gasket ?
I honestly have never torqued one. I just tighten it. If the oring is new you don’t need thread sealant. But a bit won’t just it
@@CUTTERUPROB thanks for the quick reply man just did my oil filter housing 2003 5.9 gotta finish it up tomorrow. I found a few forms saying Oil Pressure Regulator-Plug 80 nwts - 59 ft Lbs. Not 100% if that’s accurate I know it was a bit tough coming off
@@TacticalArborist203 ya the size of it 59 would be fine. I have always just bottomed it out and gave it a pull. But
I guess it’s years of doing it.
Rob I've got a mechanical Guage conected to the block it reads 15 at idle, doesn't go up accelerating
That’s low for sure.
Hey man quick question if I can. I have a 92 215hp swapped, 5x14, 4ks, 60lb springs, arp 2000s, stock he351. My power steering pump needs resealed and will that make my truck have crankcase pressure and blow oil out the fill tube cuz I have a filter there?
If the pump is plugged off and it’s just leaking oil. No. But if you don’t have the vac pump hooked up or plugged yes
@CUTTERUPROB what if it's hooked up right what would be the next problem to look at?
@@jerrysheely1260 at that point it a cylinder issue. Scored cylinders / worn out rings / bores out of around etc
@CUTTERUPROB that's what I thought but hoped wasn't lol. I do have to tap the throttle when starting the truck or it'll take 8-10 seconds to start
Hey Rob
Awesome educational video, brother!
Quick question, I just finished installing my 98 12v Cummins back in the truck today. I primed it and remove the air from the fuel lines and still wouldn’t crank on. It almost did a couple of time and after trying several times I decided to stop. It shouldn’t take this much to start up.
I feel like it could be my timing. It set it to 24 degrees using the degree wheel method. I rotated the engine counterclockwise 11 degrees and clockwise 1 degree to take care of the gear lash. So the time is set to 24 now. White smoke is coming out while cranking it on. Engine has a compound S363 and S478, 887 ppump with 6k rpm springs. 60lbs valve springs, 9/16 push rods and 5x18 injectors. Please let me know your thoughts, it would be greatly appreciate it.
Thanks brother for your time.
Did you have your afc housing off recently?
@@Taintmilker No. I did not touch my afc housing. I took it apart to send the block and head to a machine shop and once I got them back, I put it back together like it was before.
@onemanoperation5459 okay well i had the same exact problem and it took forever to figure out but my afc housing was slid either too far back and I think my fuel plate was also too.far one way if I remember correctly.
@@Taintmilker it’s really weird to be honest. I have to the AFV controller from PDD and it was working fine prior the rebuilding. Its very frustrating. This is as far as my knowledge goes lol.
I appreciate your input and for replying. Have a blessed day.
I would set it back to stock and see if it will start. Sounds like to me it’s timing
My 24 valve with a gauge hooked off the top of the filter housing is Around 50psi at start up then drops down to just under 10
Would Replacing the spring with a solid rod make it constant pressure without bypassing
You need a relief. The oil pump at certain points needs dump some off.
@CUTTERUPROB perfect I am using a ford f440 filter housing utilizing an external filter housing and external regulator that returns back to oil pan
👍👍...had a guy have an incident with a pond and an excavator with a QSB..got water in the crankcase..Changed the oil a
couple different times.obviously.. months later in the summer the oil pressure light came on occasionally when hot at idle.. checked with mechanical gauge..it wasn't lying,as the pressure was 35 or so at max rpm.. just below 10 at idle...i swapped spring and plunger .. didn't change.... needless to say,it may have a Little more bearing clearance cause it may, perhaps have not liked the fishy pond water getting pumped through it,🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 but that's been almost 2 years ago, and the machine is still working....but anyway 👍👍👊🤘
Ya lots of them will live with low pressure. When you get into high power and high rpm not so much lol
@@CUTTERUPROB 🤣👍👍👊
How low can you run a 6.7 low on oil I changed my oil on my truck and after two weeks I installed a exhaust brake and was running for about a minute and dumped 2 gallon of oil on the ground found out somehow the filter seal was damaged I did have a damage to the box but long story short it pukes 2 gallon on the ground before I shut it off did I hurt it ?
I would say your likely ok. But run it a 50 miles and pull the oil filter a cut it apart see if you find metal
@@CUTTERUPROB happened again I think I have a issue on cold start i need to let it warm up or something
Got a 96 12v that's slow to build oil pressure. Mechanical gauge plumbed to filter head. Takes 10-20 seconds in warm weather, longer in cold weather. Once it makes pressure it's 50lb running down the road. Anybody got any ideas? Been through all the forums and haven't found anything that fits my situation.
So I’m trying to figure my problem which is the opposite. I have consistent way high pressure and it’s pushing oil out of tappet cover gasket and when i am throttle happy it BLOWS as in a gallon or more out the slobber tube. I have plenty of crankcase ventilation and the gauge shows about 70psi consistent. Hot cold any rpm.
That sounds more to me like blow up issue then oil pressure issue.
@@CUTTERUPROB blow up or blow by?
Cant ya just install a mechanical oil pressure gauge? Thats what i did, the hell with sensors... don't ever trust them.
For sure you can.
❤️🔥🤙🏻🇺🇸
🙏