Come on folks!! Lets get Rob some more subscribers!! He his taken his valuable time to make these videos for us! I thumbs up is videos right when they start! Thank you Rob these videos!
Thanks!, I hoping to build something cool with the channel help out a bunch of people with builds, do some giveaways have some fun. Be awesome for people to share the video's as well
I had it so far out of adjustment sometimes it wouldn't come up. The difference is huge, thanks so much man. I learned it doesn't come up because when I tried pushing the bar up it wouldn't hold if you had the bolts backed too far off. Easily had 3/4 an inch out of adjustment. Shifting feels smoother and taking off doesnt feel like you're going to stall. Not even mentioning the power difference. Probably saved me buying a cable or another solenoid for a while 👍👍
Thank you for this wonderful information. I couldn't figure out why I didn't have as much power. I didn't have a solenoid on my truck and couldn't find the problem with not getting enough fuel to spool the turbo up. I hope that this cures the problem on my p7100 conversation. Thank you for your great video.
I think you nailed it plus most of the time it doesn't start properly without pushing that plunger and starting from the rear the previous owner installed it and then admitted it need to be adjusted.. also know this thing is slower than a slug on a frosty morning, my thirty-year-old Detroit Greyhound would blow this thing right off, 75 mph no problem...this Holiday Rambler is about the slowest thing I've driven in a long long time ! The whole time I kept thinking this can't be right and you nailed it thanks have a good one
By the way you earned a new subscriber for posting this video. I have been stumped by this because I am not a diesel mechanic. And did not have any experience with the p-7100 when I p-pumped my 24v engine. But I went to school for auto mechanics in college and graduated from the program so I'm not just your backyard mechanic. But diesel engines are a bit different as respect for their operations. Thank you again for making this video.
Thank god for this video! I’ve been chasing lost power. I knew it was fuel related. I don’t know if this was my problem. The bracket was loose holding the solenoid and sometimes the fuel shutoff would not actuate. My solenoid was 3/8” or great out of adjustment. I have gained back all of my power and then some following this video. 15psi worth of boost, and enough fuel to roll a little coal on the top end.
I bought a 1996 stock all 12 valve Cummins P pump about a year-and-a-half ago and I'm just trying to figure out how do you know if you don't have the right amount of power? Never have owned one of these trucks before I've owned a couple 7.3 IDI and Powerstroke even a 6.9 IDI so I don't know what to really look for if I am lacking power it seems like it runs pretty good only issue is when it's cold outside I have to keep it plugged in and even when it's hot if I start it up and it sat for about an hour it'll run at low idle and if I try to get on it it'll just all on me forward or reverse if I tap the throttle too fast now I just did order a torque tech overflow pressure valve which I could be somewhat of the culprit from all the reading and research I've done I know you got Governor Springs and all that and also fuel filter in the element behind the fuel filter the fuel screen or something like that so I'm going to be ordering a new fuel filter I just recently done new thermostat and water pump from Cummins and there's a way that you can test to see if your glow plug heaters are working correctly which I haven't done that yet because I drive the truck everyday but before this next winter comes I am going to see if it's one or two is bad because they think that's the issue there with the block heater or with the intake manifold heater and from a lot of forms that I've read said that once you do this overflow adjustable valve to also clean out your pre screen filter behind the fuel filter and you can gain like quite a bit of power supposably and I guess they come already set the adjustable valve so the problem that I've been having is that if it is a hot day it seems to happen more when it's real hot than it does in the cold that happens sometimes in the cold but a lot more in the hot that the truck will start to rev kind of in and out in and out in and out almost like loping and then when I put it in neutral if I'm at a stop it won't do it and if I put it in drive it won't do it only when it's in park at least that's what it seems Kevin stuck a fuel gauge on it yet to see what the pressure is but I'm going to be putting a gas and water temp and battery power and oil all together but for now it shows rate off the People Pumped there's a line that is yourit shows rate off the p Pumped there's a line that is your fuel line that you can tap into what looks like just almost like if he used a t fitting it would work perfect and I'm going to put a gauge right on top of the engine her my fuel and then also one inside the interior when I do the oil water electric so that way whatever readings and reading outside on the engine while it's running I can tune it and adjust it but when I put in this new thing it is on the way I ordered it from a diesel company this adjustable valve I'm going to do clean the pre-filter if not replace it and fuel filter and see how she runs and then also I'm going to take a look at this now since it was brought to my attention thank you and you're saying that the way you want to do it is apply power to the solenoid unhook it and put it all the way back
I just tried this on my own truck. I think I got it right but not 100% sure. I had to shorten the rod till it was bottomed out and there’s still roughly 1/8-14 inch of room to go still so I’m keeping it there. Have you seen that where you have to bottom out the rod end in the linkage slider? (For lack of a better term)
Hey Rob, love all the Cummins videos! Just curious, I’m in Australia, I have 2 p pump 12 valves. Ones a 180hp and one 160hp pump. Just wanting to know where is the best place to buy a 215hp pump from? Thanks, tyler
Hey Rob I have a question for you, I own a 95 12valve and when I go to start the truck I always have to push the throttle in for it to start, if I don’t it will just crank over and very slowly start, what do I need to look for?
You might check your filter housing o-rings where the heater goes through. Because mine was leaking and losing prime. But my truck is a 24v Cummins, so I don't know if you have a similar fuel filter housing. Mine had to do with the fuel preheating plug that goes through the top of the housing. The Cummins deal and dodge deal wanted over a $1000.00 for a replacement housing. Which I declined to get. Just found a o-ring from Caterpillar o-ring assortment. I cut the wires off put the new o-ring in. Re-soldered the wires, and it has worked fine ever since. Hopefully this helps you out.
Hello I got a question I got the 24 valve with a P-pump on it i need to change injectors on it I don’t know what injector I need and if after change the injector I will need to calibrate the pump again thanks for your help
For the most part the you don’t need to set the pop pressure to run a the vp44 injector with a ppump. But you will need to add timing. But if your having a set build tell them to set the at 285bar and they will work perfectly
I bought my truck with a cable latched onto the rail. Auto to a manual trans swap. Have you seen this before? I’m curious if I can get away with removing the solenoid and just running the cable. Prefer the cable right now.
A weak solenoid not pulling fuel lever up high enough caused hard starting for me…I deleted the problematic solenoid and put a manual cable to the fuel lever to operate from inside cab…manual over electronic is more reliable imo.
Rob, we hope you never retire "sorry'. But if you do, you will have to create a Cummins school.. But wait, you won't be retired Sorry. Solution, I do hope you are making some babies to take over the operation..
Come on folks!! Lets get Rob some more subscribers!! He his taken his valuable time to make these videos for us! I thumbs up is videos right when they start! Thank you Rob these videos!
Thanks!, I hoping to build something cool with the channel help out a bunch of people with builds, do some giveaways have some fun. Be awesome for people to share the video's as well
No one else has mentioned that adjustment TH-cam. Your videos are really helpful man. Keep it up.
🙏
I had it so far out of adjustment sometimes it wouldn't come up. The difference is huge, thanks so much man. I learned it doesn't come up because when I tried pushing the bar up it wouldn't hold if you had the bolts backed too far off. Easily had 3/4 an inch out of adjustment. Shifting feels smoother and taking off doesnt feel like you're going to stall. Not even mentioning the power difference. Probably saved me buying a cable or another solenoid for a while 👍👍
Thank you for this wonderful information. I couldn't figure out why I didn't have as much power. I didn't have a solenoid on my truck and couldn't find the problem with not getting enough fuel to spool the turbo up. I hope that this cures the problem on my p7100 conversation. Thank you for your great video.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, I truly learn something every time! Now I have to go check my fuel shut off adjustment!
just doing my best to help guys
I think you nailed it plus most of the time it doesn't start properly without pushing that plunger and starting from the rear the previous owner installed it and then admitted it need to be adjusted.. also know this thing is slower than a slug on a frosty morning, my thirty-year-old Detroit Greyhound would blow this thing right off, 75 mph no problem...this Holiday Rambler is about the slowest thing I've driven in a long long time !
The whole time I kept thinking this can't be right and you nailed it thanks have a good one
By the way you earned a new subscriber for posting this video. I have been stumped by this because I am not a diesel mechanic. And did not have any experience with the p-7100 when I p-pumped my 24v engine. But I went to school for auto mechanics in college and graduated from the program so I'm not just your backyard mechanic. But diesel engines are a bit different as respect for their operations. Thank you again for making this video.
Thanks for watching ,the comment ,subscribing
Thank god for this video! I’ve been chasing lost power. I knew it was fuel related. I don’t know if this was my problem. The bracket was loose holding the solenoid and sometimes the fuel shutoff would not actuate.
My solenoid was 3/8” or great out of adjustment. I have gained back all of my power and then some following this video. 15psi worth of boost, and enough fuel to roll a little coal on the top end.
Glad it helped. Please share
With all the stuff I've done to my pump, I can't believe I didn't know this. Thanks!
Happy to help!
Awesome video ! Wow I never adjusted my fuel solenoid when I replaced it . Thanks !
We have a farm truck 97 dodge lacks power hates hills with a load of hay definitely going to check this out. Just subscribed thank you👍🏻
I've got a mysterious low power cummins. Gona check that asap. Thanks
I bought a 1996 stock all 12 valve Cummins P pump about a year-and-a-half ago and I'm just trying to figure out how do you know if you don't have the right amount of power? Never have owned one of these trucks before I've owned a couple 7.3 IDI and Powerstroke even a 6.9 IDI so I don't know what to really look for if I am lacking power it seems like it runs pretty good only issue is when it's cold outside I have to keep it plugged in and even when it's hot if I start it up and it sat for about an hour it'll run at low idle and if I try to get on it it'll just all on me forward or reverse if I tap the throttle too fast now I just did order a torque tech overflow pressure valve which I could be somewhat of the culprit from all the reading and research I've done I know you got Governor Springs and all that and also fuel filter in the element behind the fuel filter the fuel screen or something like that so I'm going to be ordering a new fuel filter I just recently done new thermostat and water pump from Cummins and there's a way that you can test to see if your glow plug heaters are working correctly which I haven't done that yet because I drive the truck everyday but before this next winter comes I am going to see if it's one or two is bad because they think that's the issue there with the block heater or with the intake manifold heater and from a lot of forms that I've read said that once you do this overflow adjustable valve to also clean out your pre screen filter behind the fuel filter and you can gain like quite a bit of power supposably and I guess they come already set the adjustable valve so the problem that I've been having is that if it is a hot day it seems to happen more when it's real hot than it does in the cold that happens sometimes in the cold but a lot more in the hot that the truck will start to rev kind of in and out in and out in and out almost like loping and then when I put it in neutral if I'm at a stop it won't do it and if I put it in drive it won't do it only when it's in park at least that's what it seems Kevin stuck a fuel gauge on it yet to see what the pressure is but I'm going to be putting a gas and water temp and battery power and oil all together but for now it shows rate off the People Pumped there's a line that is yourit shows rate off the p Pumped there's a line that is your fuel line that you can tap into what looks like just almost like if he used a t fitting it would work perfect and I'm going to put a gauge right on top of the engine her my fuel and then also one inside the interior when I do the oil water electric so that way whatever readings and reading outside on the engine while it's running I can tune it and adjust it but when I put in this new thing it is on the way I ordered it from a diesel company this adjustable valve I'm going to do clean the pre-filter if not replace it and fuel filter and see how she runs and then also I'm going to take a look at this now since it was brought to my attention thank you and you're saying that the way you want to do it is apply power to the solenoid unhook it and put it all the way back
I just tried this on my own truck. I think I got it right but not 100% sure. I had to shorten the rod till it was bottomed out and there’s still roughly 1/8-14 inch of room to go still so I’m keeping it there. Have you seen that where you have to bottom out the rod end in the linkage slider? (For lack of a better term)
I haven't but doesn't mean it you might not. just make sure the solenoid is not putting preesure on the leveler
Thanks
Thanks helped me out rob!
Hey Rob, love all the Cummins videos!
Just curious, I’m in Australia, I have 2 p pump 12 valves. Ones a 180hp and one 160hp pump. Just wanting to know where is the best place to buy a 215hp pump from? Thanks, tyler
There now become hard to get. Just have to keep a eye open
Hi
Do you know the fix of this pump when you need to apply a little throttle to start?
i will be doing a video on it,
Awesome video thank you !
Thanks for watching
Hey Rob I have a question for you, I own a 95 12valve and when I go to start the truck I always have to push the throttle in for it to start, if I don’t it will just crank over and very slowly start, what do I need to look for?
Can be a few things
Governor springs not set right
Afc set tight
Idle to low.
Can be couple other things but that the easy stuff to start with
@@CUTTERUPROB thank you 👍🏼
You might check your filter housing o-rings where the heater goes through. Because mine was leaking and losing prime. But my truck is a 24v Cummins, so I don't know if you have a similar fuel filter housing. Mine had to do with the fuel preheating plug that goes through the top of the housing. The Cummins deal and dodge deal wanted over a $1000.00 for a replacement housing. Which I declined to get. Just found a o-ring from Caterpillar o-ring assortment. I cut the wires off put the new o-ring in. Re-soldered the wires, and it has worked fine ever since. Hopefully this helps you out.
What’s your idle at now? Mine had the same issue and I turned it up to 900rpm for idle and now it fires up strong in winter
Hello I got a question I got the 24 valve with a P-pump on it i need to change injectors on it I don’t know what injector I need and if after change the injector I will need to calibrate the pump again thanks for your help
For the most part the you don’t need to set the pop pressure to run a the vp44 injector with a ppump. But you will need to add timing. But if your having a set build tell them to set the at 285bar and they will work perfectly
Where I need yo at the timing at the P-pump ? And what injector you recommend and from where should I get then thank your for your help
I bought my truck with a cable latched onto the rail. Auto to a manual trans swap. Have you seen this before? I’m curious if I can get away with removing the solenoid and just running the cable. Prefer the cable right now.
not sure what you mean cable latched onto the rail . but you can run just a cable if you want to
Would this being out of adjustment cause my fuel pressure to jump all over the map? Like 1 - 45psi?
Pressure no. Likely a lift pump / lines or over flow valve issue
@@CUTTERUPROB the shop I took it to for this believes it has a restriction in the tank.
I'm so low on power, the turbo is a non factor.
It’s possible could be in the tank
I got sick of messing with it and just ran a choke cable instead haha, might have to give it one more shot now
dudeeee i just checked mine and it is atleast about the same as this one wow
My solenoid keeps breaking the 2 bolts on top is there an update for a smaller one that hits less harder ?
You can buy a kit to put the new style on. But make sure it adjusted right
@CUTTERUP ROB where do they sell that alot of knock offs out there
@@apolinarponce4506 send me a email
Robcutterup@outlook.com
A weak solenoid not pulling fuel lever up high enough caused hard starting for me…I deleted the problematic solenoid and put a manual cable to the fuel lever to operate from inside cab…manual over electronic is more reliable imo.
I have nothing the same thing
@@CUTTERUPROB u da man!
Is it much better this method?? Instead of the electric selenoid???
That might work for a 3208 cat too thanks much
Lifesaver, mechanic quoted $800...
😬
Fixed my solenoid now my clutch couldn’t handle the extra power 🤦♂️😂
Nice hat
i really should get some new ones made.
Rob, we hope you never retire "sorry'. But if you do, you will have to create a Cummins school.. But wait, you won't be retired Sorry. Solution, I do hope you are making some babies to take over the operation..
I am in the working on the Cummins school. Lol. Babies aren’t in my future. But I like teaching people. So I guess that’s how I live on
Could I eliminate this and put it on a pull cable to start and stop it?
yep sure can
Or take the solenoid off and replace with a lawnmower choke cable for mechanical full on or full off with no electrical nonsense... Jussayin.