I had time to think about this. That is actually just a 2 wire oil pressure switch that sends a on/off signal past 15 psi. The ECU doesn’t know the actual oil pressure it just guesstimates based on rpm and temp. If that was a pressure transducer it would have 3 wires.
I’m glad you mentioned the Chrysler oil pump. With the 2 different pressures. Was wondering if you were gonna mention it. Always look up theory and operation on anything your testing. Don’t just assume. Thumbs up on the vids guys. Nice shop!
Totally agree golden rule to check oil pressure at all temp range, as you correctly pointed out manufacturers do odd times put relief control valves, those suckers can intermittently play up like dropping pressure at high engine revs to give relief to front and back seals on the crank, at a guess long intervals between oil changes can mess with them valves sludge ext, or worse like particles from shells lifters wearing etc, I often send oil off to the lab particularly with high mileage engines, one time the lab found shell material I dropped the sump and changed the big end shells miked up the journals found them in limits no damage, new shells worked out good ,preventative measures is worth the effort every time, 👍
I am IMMENSELY IMPRESSED! One day, I would like to bring in my vehicle, maybe combined with a trip to FL. In the meantime, it would be great if you had an Amazon Store. You could list the things used in your video and get commissions on the sales. I would love to support you that way. I've watched a couple of videos, so far. You mentioned that a tool would be listed in the notes, but I didn't see it. A "store" would probably pay for the time and more. Thanks, very much, for your content. Subscribed and liked!
If you haven’t can you do a toolbox tour? Would love to see it . Edit: always watch to the end before asking a question now just need to find your toolbox tour
Alot of ford and GM products use two sensor-switches one to the ECM and one To the gauge or light or both . One switch will just peg the gauge one way or the other and turn the idiot light on the other just put the gauge at a factory predetermined value that looks good to the driver
Back in the 90s i bought a county sold Chevy s10 at an auction it had the 2.8 V6 the oil light was on when it was idling but go off above idle the engine ran good made no noises I checked the oil press with a mechanical gauge it showed 2 pounds at idle and 7 above idle So I installed a mechanical gauge in it and drove it all over for 2 years until the transmission cooler in the radiator went bad on a 7 hr trip and destroyed the transmission . I put a junk yard transmission and converter in it and sold it
Appreciate your videos very content as usual. I believe for the search of the Autel there is arrow on top that you can pull down and you should have search loop. Thanks again for you great information and sharing.
I was curious too so I looked into it. This dash oil pressure gauge (AKA "idiot gauge") shows simulated readings (around 40-48 psi) that vary with RPM as long as there is sufficient pressure. Otherwise, if pressure is too low as per the switch, then the gauge drops to zero. That's all she wrote.
That connector was filled with oil, and just like water, its conductive. This created a false closed circuit to the ECM. The gauge is a dummy gauge. Estimated preesure using switch and rpm. Owners would freak out if they saw wide swings in pressure. At 100 celsius oil temp, pressure drop to 15psi. Over 80 at cold temps. GM limits swing in coolant temps as well between 170 and 220F. Owners freak out too easy.
@@theroyaltyautoservice I think what he’s trying to say is, this could be an assumed value based on multiple data, put in place by engineers to not freak customers out and keep the gauge where it normally is anyway when it senses only an open circuit in the ops. If obd data had a pid, it would probably read differently than factory data.
@theroyaltyautoservice it's not an open, the oil was completing the circuit, until you cleaned it out. The plastic cover pops out to allow access to the front of the terminals.
Thank you for another great video. You seem to have the same issue as me. Where to set stuff? I have a small cart the I wheel around with me, to set engine parts and tools on.
What’s your remedy for a stripped oil drain pan??? I currently have teflon tape wrapped around my drain plug & it’s holding for now. I was gonna drill & tap it until I realized there wasn’t enough room to get a drill & bit in there.
Oversize plug. It will cut new treads as you tighten. Start it straight and take your time. Any parts store have them. Some even have double oversized. Aluminum pan, no problem. Steel pan remove the plug after install and use a small magnet to collect as many shavings as possible.
It depends on the pan. With steel pans it's usually better to replace them. Sometimes an oversize plug will work. Aluminum pans can usually be tapped out and a larger plug installed. But it really depends on the design. Also, be very careful about shavings when tapping any pan.
I have used helicoils, good as new. The larger sizes are hard to find and expensive. Have used a long bit extension for ones hard to reach but may not work for all.
I just did the oil pressure test on my RAV but it started squirting all out when I raise the RPMs so I know I didn’t have the sensor all the way in or the adapter all the way in but I didn’t want to damage the threads because it goes into the head
Where can the average person go to find vehicle specifications? I have a service manual for my car, but if I work on any other car, finding torque specs, wiring diagrams, fluid specifications, etc. takes longer than the work. Is there an automotive database like you use that is available for a reasonable subscription price?
Most (or all) independent shops will subscribe to a service called AllData. It's pricey for a DIY-er but mandatory for anyone that works on a wide range of makes and models
@@theroyaltyautoservice how does it read oil pressure and what turn s the oil pressure light off yes the oil light switch leak oil and failed? but you said that the oil pressure gauge still worked yes there must be a sender in the oilway somewhere on the engine
A very amateurish approach to this “fix”. You obviously removed an oil pressure switch (not an oil pressure sender unit as explained) and once you installed a new switch you seemed to it now operated the oil pressure gauge? Suggest you do your research first on the correct operation of the oil pressure system in this vehicle before making a bunch of incorrect comments. Please take this as constructive criticism.
I saw your video the other day. On the oil filters, I was kind of shocked all those oil. Fools aren't that good. You need to be looking for 3 micron. Oil filters
this is the only fake mechanic channel. you do everything outstandingly incompetently and your hands are somehow pristine with no grease under the nails??? you use the mechanics tools but then you cant find them because its not your box.
The people this guy is advising must be clueless. I seem to know more and all i did is auto shop and work on my cars. btw you NEED your differential fluid changed after 3 years or else you will not have the correct fluid installed.
even in the old days an old chevy 350 engine would show 60+ lbs of oil pressure but when the oil was at operating temperature the pressure it could drop as low as 15 lbs with excessive bearing wear or weak oil pump.
Great video. Thank you. My question is how did the oil get into the connector in the first place? I would also check if it’s flowing down the cable harness from another leak?
The oil can actually come thru the switch, leak externally, but quite often this type switch can push oil thru the wire (under the insulation, with the copper), to other parts of the car, wherever the wires go next. One example is a Kia model with certain year V6s. The switch will leak, give the appearance of a rear main seal leak due to where the oil flows in the valley, thru a drain hole at the back of the intake. But then can also push oil thru the wires to a set of solenoids on the front valve cover, come out those wires, and drip down onto the serpentine belt and get flung all over the front of the engine. KIA has extended warranty coverage on many models for this oil pressure switch issue.
In the uk I've seen oil travel up wires and into other circuits and ecu's causing problems. Corsa c oul pressure switch failure causes an upstream lambda sensor fault from il in the harness. Landrover discovery td5 get oul in the ecu from the injectors harnes inside the head. It's crazy how far it can travel up looms.
I also have an older KD tools gauge kit that you screw on in place of the filter because that way compare ready to display. Some other tool company sells the kit now. The timing chain loves clean fresh oil and that test shows it.
I just snug them suckers up. The threads aren't designed to be torqued, just snugged up and given an extra turn. Should have some thread sealant on there to prevent leakage and prevent loosening from vibration. I personally don't torque certain items like that because the threads and material aren't typically designed for torque and will shear right off. Personal experience plays a huge role obviously... most books have torque specs... remember back in the day they used to give you a torque spec with a specific range, now they just tell you a specific number... these day most torque specs are there for liability... they have determined that they can no longer trust you with a range of numbers, just a specific number!
I had time to think about this. That is actually just a 2 wire oil pressure switch that sends a on/off signal past 15 psi. The ECU doesn’t know the actual oil pressure it just guesstimates based on rpm and temp. If that was a pressure transducer it would have 3 wires.
What a terrible design, why even have a oil pressure gauge? 🤣
@@austinbentley6234 it’s a way to sell more engines.
nothing beats a 4 day a week shop, especially working for one. everyone is happier.
Its good to see someone takes care of their belongings😊
Another informative video.!! Thanks for your advice of not just throwing a sensor at it..
4.2L uses a modeled gauge pressure, like you said, the thing you replaced is a switch, not a sender.
LOVE THE CHANNEL ,, GREAT TEST AND PLEASE KEEP UP THE AWESOME WORK !!!!!!!!!!!!
I love hard work. I could watch it all day. (not mine)
Excellent work. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
I’m glad you mentioned the Chrysler oil pump. With the 2 different pressures. Was wondering if you were gonna mention it. Always look up theory and operation on anything your testing. Don’t just assume. Thumbs up on the vids guys. Nice shop!
5:53
Cool to see how to do it. Great job!
Totally agree golden rule to check oil pressure at all temp range, as you correctly pointed out manufacturers do odd times put relief control valves, those suckers can intermittently play up like dropping pressure at high engine revs to give relief to front and back seals on the crank, at a guess long intervals between oil changes can mess with them valves sludge ext, or worse like particles from shells lifters wearing etc, I often send oil off to the lab particularly with high mileage engines, one time the lab found shell material I dropped the sump and changed the big end shells miked up the journals found them in limits no damage, new shells worked out good ,preventative measures is worth the effort every time, 👍
I am IMMENSELY IMPRESSED! One day, I would like to bring in my vehicle, maybe combined with a trip to FL. In the meantime, it would be great if you had an Amazon Store. You could list the things used in your video and get commissions on the sales. I would love to support you that way. I've watched a couple of videos, so far. You mentioned that a tool would be listed in the notes, but I didn't see it. A "store" would probably pay for the time and more. Thanks, very much, for your content. Subscribed and liked!
Great video!
Great video. Keep it up.
If you haven’t can you do a toolbox tour? Would love to see it . Edit: always watch to the end before asking a question now just need to find your toolbox tour
Alot of ford and GM products use two sensor-switches one to the ECM and one To the gauge or light or both . One switch will just peg the gauge one way or the other and turn the idiot light on the other just put the gauge at a factory predetermined value that looks good to the driver
You are awesome! Looking up, glasses or safety glasses and you told yourself to put on gloves! Thank you 😮😮😮😮😮
Back in the 90s i bought a county sold Chevy s10 at an auction it had the 2.8 V6 the oil light was on when it was idling but go off above idle the engine ran good made no noises I checked the oil press with a mechanical gauge it showed 2 pounds at idle and 7 above idle So I installed a mechanical gauge in it and drove it all over for 2 years until the transmission cooler in the radiator went bad on a 7 hr trip and destroyed the transmission . I put a junk yard transmission and converter in it and sold it
Appreciate your videos very content as usual. I believe for the search of the Autel there is arrow on top that you can pull down and you should have search loop. Thanks again for you great information and sharing.
Nice job 👍🏼 ! Thanks for teaching us !! 🎯
I saw the message on screen your first oil sensor didn’t have a o ring. This is why I have a universal kit in my toolbox.
Really courteous about that oil pressure gauge difference from the direct gauge you hooked up 🤔
I need to look up the theory and operation. I'll see what I can find and pin a comment on top. Keep a look out for it.
@@theroyaltyautoservice thank you
You are very professional handy and intelligent. Recommend you safety glasses .
I was curious too so I looked into it. This dash oil pressure gauge (AKA "idiot gauge") shows simulated readings (around 40-48 psi) that vary with RPM as long as there is sufficient pressure. Otherwise, if pressure is too low as per the switch, then the gauge drops to zero. That's all she wrote.
why the f is this geek putting out vids that non mechanics figure out the problem for him???
A gauge with fake modelled readings seems crazy to me. Better no gauge than that.
That connector was filled with oil, and just like water, its conductive. This created a false closed circuit to the ECM. The gauge is a dummy gauge. Estimated preesure using switch and rpm. Owners would freak out if they saw wide swings in pressure. At 100 celsius oil temp, pressure drop to 15psi. Over 80 at cold temps. GM limits swing in coolant temps as well between 170 and 220F. Owners freak out too easy.
Yeah, my only real question is why it still showed 40 with the switch unplugged. The SI said it would read 0 with open circuit. 👍
@@theroyaltyautoservice I think what he’s trying to say is, this could be an assumed value based on multiple data, put in place by engineers to not freak customers out and keep the gauge where it normally is anyway when it senses only an open circuit in the ops. If obd data had a pid, it would probably read differently than factory data.
@theroyaltyautoservice it's not an open, the oil was completing the circuit, until you cleaned it out. The plastic cover pops out to allow access to the front of the terminals.
Great work ! Where is your safety glasses?🤔
Great job and video, you did not mention or checked the oil weight. That would have made a difference if the wrong weight was put in.
FANTASTIC WORK, but why so big difference from your gauge and the one in the car.
OPS...oil pressure sensor and or oil pressure switch...or also oil pressure sender. 😊
were do i buy the repair manual for hrv honda 2020 they dont sell here no more on dealers shop they wont tell me were to buy also
So honest question: how are you comfortable with your "fix" if you don't fully understand the circuit/system you're working on?
Thank you for another great video. You seem to have the same issue as me. Where to set stuff? I have a small cart the I wheel around with me, to set engine parts and tools on.
What’s your remedy for a stripped oil drain pan??? I currently have teflon tape wrapped around my drain plug & it’s holding for now. I was gonna drill & tap it until I realized there wasn’t enough room to get a drill & bit in there.
Replace the pan.
Oversize plug. It will cut new treads as you tighten. Start it straight and take your time. Any parts store have them. Some even have double oversized. Aluminum pan, no problem. Steel pan remove the plug after install and use a small magnet to collect as many shavings as possible.
It depends on the pan. With steel pans it's usually better to replace them. Sometimes an oversize plug will work. Aluminum pans can usually be tapped out and a larger plug installed. But it really depends on the design. Also, be very careful about shavings when tapping any pan.
@@theroyaltyautoservice thx for the response & info
I have used helicoils, good as new. The larger sizes are hard to find and expensive. Have used a long bit extension for ones hard to reach but may not work for all.
nice
I just did the oil pressure test on my RAV but it started squirting all out when I raise the RPMs so I know I didn’t have the sensor all the way in or the adapter all the way in but I didn’t want to damage the threads because it goes into the head
Look in the back the inteke plenum 😢
So, did you ever fine the ghost pressure sensor?
Or just buy a lexus or toyota and maintain them decently. That's how I do oil pressure tests. (By never having to do them).
Grasias
That envoy has a racing engine 😄
Where can the average person go to find vehicle specifications? I have a service manual for my car, but if I work on any other car, finding torque specs, wiring diagrams, fluid specifications, etc. takes longer than the work. Is there an automotive database like you use that is available for a reasonable subscription price?
Most (or all) independent shops will subscribe to a service called AllData. It's pricey for a DIY-er but mandatory for anyone that works on a wide range of makes and models
Put a new sensor in it! Gm part only
Could be the plug being covered in oil
Yep, the oil was coming through the switch.
Im guessing you charged a diagnostic fee and then to replace it. 2hrs at your shop rate would be fair.
We charge R & R unit plus diagnostic time to test. Depends on how difficult the sender is to get to.
Great channel, but wow Sherwood's got some serious Obsessive Compulsive tendencies. My therapist would have a fun with him! haha
did you hook into the oil light switch port and not the pressure gauge port just a thought as i have done that
Only has one. Just the switch.
@@theroyaltyautoservice how does it read oil pressure and what turn s the oil pressure light off yes the oil light switch leak oil and failed? but you said that the oil pressure gauge still worked yes there must be a sender in the oilway somewhere on the engine
Maybe on scan tool it would read zero?
Steam gauge is a lot more reliable than electric gauge.
what he wants to tell you a switch replacement job that should have cost 100.00 now costs 300.00 LOL
Great video, but why no safety glasses when working under the vehicle?
A very amateurish approach to this “fix”. You obviously removed an oil pressure switch (not an oil pressure sender unit as explained) and once you installed a new switch you seemed to it now operated the oil pressure gauge?
Suggest you do your research first on the correct operation of the oil pressure system in this vehicle before making a bunch of incorrect comments.
Please take this as constructive criticism.
First message
Cool !
So nobody told you that a man bun causes blindness?
😂😂😂
😂 and gayness 😅
Than all samurai fought blind?
@@Beholderoffate naysayers are always bald as billiard balls 😂😂😂😂😂
It's gives him that, 'no closet can hold me', look.
I saw your video the other day. On the oil filters, I was kind of shocked all those oil. Fools aren't that good. You need to be looking for 3 micron. Oil filters
If dogs didn't do stupid things we wouldn't love them.
this is the only fake mechanic channel. you do everything outstandingly incompetently and your hands are somehow pristine with no grease under the nails??? you use the mechanics tools but then you cant find them because its not your box.
worst mechanic channel ever= is this a troll channel?
The people this guy is advising must be clueless. I seem to know more and all i did is auto shop and work on my cars. btw you NEED your differential fluid changed after 3 years or else you will not have the correct fluid installed.
These videos are great! Your community is lucky to have such skilled and honest technicians!
even in the old days an old chevy 350 engine would show 60+ lbs of oil pressure but when the oil was at operating temperature the pressure it could drop as low as 15 lbs with excessive bearing wear or weak oil pump.
I have an IROC like this. right at 60 cold but 13 at hot idle after fully warmed up
Great video. Thank you. My question is how did the oil get into the connector in the first place? I would also check if it’s flowing down the cable harness from another leak?
It came through the switch. Very common.
The oil can actually come thru the switch, leak externally, but quite often this type switch can push oil thru the wire (under the insulation, with the copper), to other parts of the car, wherever the wires go next. One example is a Kia model with certain year V6s. The switch will leak, give the appearance of a rear main seal leak due to where the oil flows in the valley, thru a drain hole at the back of the intake. But then can also push oil thru the wires to a set of solenoids on the front valve cover, come out those wires, and drip down onto the serpentine belt and get flung all over the front of the engine. KIA has extended warranty coverage on many models for this oil pressure switch issue.
In the uk I've seen oil travel up wires and into other circuits and ecu's causing problems. Corsa c oul pressure switch failure causes an upstream lambda sensor fault from il in the harness. Landrover discovery td5 get oul in the ecu from the injectors harnes inside the head. It's crazy how far it can travel up looms.
Kindly explain further @@theroyaltyautoservice
Man bun? Get rid of it.
most modern cars can be checked with a scan tool
True, but a scan tool is reading off your sensors. To be sure your sensor isn’t giving false readings, you would check with a pressure kit.
Up here in Wisconsin those oil pressure sensors rust in half an blows oil all out an blows the engine I replaced 3 motors cause of that sensor
Most reliable car ever made?Any thoughts?
Sounds like a washing machine, but who cares if it gets from point A to B for many years.
Toyota Sequoia without a doubt.
Yugo
Honda Insight gen 1 5-speed
I was thinking a 2003-2008 Toyota Corolla or any year of the Toyota Yaris.
I had 14.75 oz of cream style sweet corn watching this banger, thought everyone should know
I also have an older KD tools gauge kit that you screw on in place of the filter because that way compare ready to display. Some other tool company sells the kit now. The timing chain loves clean fresh oil and that test shows it.
Wiring diagram will show the extra oil sender if there is one.
Oh that oil gauge on the dash would bug me, what does scan data say?
Good info thanks
Don't forget to wear safety glasses when spraying solvent cleaner or air, to clean it out.
I just snug them suckers up. The threads aren't designed to be torqued, just snugged up and given an extra turn. Should have some thread sealant on there to prevent leakage and prevent loosening from vibration. I personally don't torque certain items like that because the threads and material aren't typically designed for torque and will shear right off. Personal experience plays a huge role obviously... most books have torque specs... remember back in the day they used to give you a torque spec with a specific range, now they just tell you a specific number... these day most torque specs are there for liability... they have determined that they can no longer trust you with a range of numbers, just a specific number!
I think you are referring to sending units that have pipe thread. On those I would agree. This has on o-ring seal and straight threads. 👍