Note to SELF: When some helpful person on TH-cam just pops out that old bearing with a few light taps, YOUR corrosion-welded clunker is probably going to require an hour of pounding with all the strength you've got throwing a 5lb lump hammer at a railroad spike. -> But a heartfelt thanks anyway for taking the time to make this video as my old machine is working beautifully now. Cheers!
I was very fortunate that the bearings were not corroded on my machine. Happy to hear that you were able to get past the removal phase and the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
I found that once the front bearing reached the weeping hole (at about the 6 o'clock position) in the cylinder, you can spray WD40 around the bearing and hit it backwards towards the rear of the unit. Spray some more and hit it forward. Do this about 5 times and the bearing will come out. Hitting the bearings back in is also a chore.
Good video. I still have my 1998 Neptune and retired now and will be changing the bearings sometime. The drum still spins freely by my hand and I don't see any water leakage out the back. In fact it still looks new back there. My replacement in the mean time is a Speed Queen front loader. I've had it 10 years and I've only replaced the door lock mechanism and the front seal on it. My Neptune I think the motor control board went bad. It was doing weird things like it had a mind of its own. I have a new conversion motor and board ordered. The Speed Queen is one heavy washer. It has concrete blocks in the case to keep it from vibrating. I looked at buying a new Neptune back then but I read they were crap after Amana bought out Maytag.
Hey, just wanted to say thank you! I've always been a big DIY'er, I've had rental properties and have always done my own projects because it can save a person LOADS of money, and your video was much more detailed than others I've watched. The only issue I personally had was that, my inner bearing was "literally" rusted and broken in too many pieces to count, and the innermost part of the bearing was still stuck inside! I did'nt realize it until I tried to install the new bearing and it did not go in near enough. I thought it was part of the drum assembly!! Finally got it removed, then followed the remainder of your video, and that's all she wrote! Would'nt have been able to do it without this, much appreciation!!
Hello Carlos. Happy to hear the video was helpful!. I completely understand your mind set of doing things yourself. The few times I have had a contractor come in I say to myself " I could have done that". Granted they get it done quicker (sometimes) but paying someone to do something that I can do myself does not set well with me. Thanks for watching and keep up the DIY spirit.
Literally step by step. Appreciate it very much. I like to try and fix things when I can versus replacing them and this couldn’t have made it easier for me.
Thanks for the really helpful video, step by step. This is a really tough job but my husband did it and now our machine is quiet. It would be helpful to have the steps go through all the putting it back together process. Some of the reassembling is tricky too. Our bearings came out with great difficulty. Penetrating oil was helpful.
Hey, you did an awesome job and thanks for the help. They wanted $1,100 to repair mine and I thought that was insane so I did some research, found the parts and this video. You happen to be doing the same exact model as I own. Anyhow, a couple of notes that might help others - things I know from my days as a mechanic. (1) getting the inner drum out is best done with a hammer and a block of wood, like you said. If just a little more persuasion is required, use a brass rod. I have a 3/4" diameter brass rod that is used for just that reason because the brass will dent before the steel is damaged. (2) I happen to have a seal removal tool. they help but in the end, it does not matter if you maul the seal removing it with a screwdriver since you have a new one (3) the best way to drive in a bearing is with a bearing race and seal driver. They ensure it gets driven straight, even and to the correct depth. The tool is about $30 and might be worth it if you are young and maybe plan to work on cars also. I've always been a fan of having the right tool for the right job.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I agree with you, it's nice having the right tool for the right job but sometimes I am not sure what the right tool is. Thanks for the extra tips as well.
Hi Jeffery, thanks for the tip about using Bearing Race And Seal Driver Set, it really made installing the front so easy and error free without having to take the tub out, also I saw in another video about keeping bearings in freezer and applying some lubricating oil, all these made the installation a breeze.
Very good video. It is a highly educational instruction performance. The light of video's pictures , motion, with step-by-step instruction and timing detail are mostly perfect. I have learned a lot from this video and thinking that I will do myself bearing replacement without any problem. Compared to many other bearing replacement instruction video that I have been watching; this is the best and clear. I would recommend anyone who want to repair oneself, viewing this video instead of spend lot of times on others. One think is He hasn't tell me that what is the bearing Kit manufacturer's name, which he has bought for $50. However, thank you, The handy OutdoorsMan's.
Glad the video was helpful. You can order the replacement parts off of Amazon. Just put in your washer model and they have several to choose from. Thanks for watching.
Don't drive the inner bearing in too far. Mine seized up on the bearing spacer and I could not hammer out the new bearing with the spacer wedged in the way it was. I am used to bearings stopping when they reach a retaining lip but this inner bearing just keeps going in. My guess is you leave the spacer a little loose in there and then it will fully tighten up AFTER you reinstall the drum and tighten the bolt holding the spindle on. Also, that collar that goes over the drum shaft has a rubber gasket on the underside. Mine was torn up when I removed it and I had to order it. Keep this in mind if you are wanting to do the job in one day, you will want to make sure you have that as well as your bearing and seal kit.
Appreciate the video as I am about to do my bearings. One thing I disagree with you on is the fact you split the internal seal. IMO, you insert the seal as one unit, lube the land where the seal rides on the shaft and install the inner drum that way. In case your seal sits slightly different from the original, you could get a leak past that seal. One tip, you could have put the bolt back into the shaft to save the end from mushrooming when you pounded it out
Nice video, I had the control panel lit up but the buttons not responding. Took the board out and replaced about all of the capacitors and fixed problems. That was about 3 years ago and still going ( after I replace the tub bearings again).
Great video! My 1st gen Neptune is 21 years old and working fine but someday I will start hearing the tub rumble. Did have the motor toast out doing a really heavy load at 14 years. Maytag sold me the motor and gave me the control board for free as apparently when the motor dies it takes out the motor control board also.
I did mine about two years ago. I should’ve measured the shaft like you did. now at high speeds, it start to make noise again, so I wonder if I pounded the bearings and two hard sort of did the same thing you did when putting the new bearings I used the old bearings to pound in the new bearings however, at the end there was a torque rating on my sheet and I went with that for the final torque on the pulley in the back, my unit did not have that white plastic clip that goes in the tub in front of the bearing nor did I have a snap ring on the back of mine.
Been a few years since I did this project - don't remember the part numbers. I did get my parts from www.repairclinic.com/, maybe you can type in your model and serial number to get your specific parts? Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks, I tried "repair clinic" with no luck. I was hoping to get the bearings before I started, anyway, I will remove them them and take them to my bearing supplier.
I was ready to tackle this job but the washer maybe too heavy to move out of the closet. Questions: How much water is left in the tub normally? When I manually spin the tub I can hear a lot in there. Can I get it out to lighten the machine? Also, how much will the weight lighten when I remove the door, front, and top? Any other ideas would be much appreciated. I have the parts ready to go. I've been putting this job off for at least a year and a half. LOL
Hello, this is more of a general question, not directly related to the video. My wife and I purchased our Maytag Neptune washer and dryer set approximately 2005 (at least we think so as the serial number seems to indicate it is a Feb 2005 model washer. Anyway, it is a front loader with a solid door, model number MAH5500BWQ. The machine has been running well with one noticeable issue; the door seal (boot) has a few holes in it. I have never addressed it because there are no noticeable leaks and I was told I was better off just buying a new machine...after watching your videos, I am thinking I can just replace the boot and keep on using the machine. My question is, since there are definitely some holes in the boot, is there a likelihood that there are other problems that I need to address? Also, since I will have it opened up, what else should I do in terms of preventative maintenance, or tune up? Asking because the machine has never been opened up and there are likely things on the cusp of failing; I would like to do a one time repair and keep it running another 17 years. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance for your time.
I only addressed the issues at hand (loud bearing sound). Understand your thoughts on fixing everything at once, however I am not a subject matter expert on this. My suggestion would be to research each component of concern and see if taking it all a part at all at once to fix it. Since the bearing was a major task, if not required I would not replace it if not necessary.
Hi thanks great video followed your instructions put everything back for some reason it’s leaking through two holes right next to the bearing. Do you happen to have these holes and what are these for? I am afraid that the Seal is not fully compressed.
Thanks for the video! I completed the job, the drum spins freely and quiet once again! However I now notice a burning smell during spin cycle.. Any ideas?
Seems like Maytag washers and dryers break down more than other laundry top brands. My apartment building has Maytag washers and dryers and they are always breaking down.
How long ago was this repair done? How has the washing machine performed since the bearing replacement? I've checked with local applicance repair companies and nobody wants to do this repair. Some want to replace the whole drum. Others say junk it. It is 20 years old, but works fine other than the bearings are noisy.
what's the sign of the bearings going? Just Noisy spin cycle? Mine sounds loud and buzzy when it spins. Great video BTW, I feel like I could do this job myself following your directions
The Handy Outdoorsman thanks for the video. Surprisingly repairclinic only has the whole rear drum for my model mah6500aww for $1100. More than I paid for the washer in first place. :-o. Gonna check elsewhere.
@@jckowal7381 WOW talk about sticker shock, yea I would check around as well. Have you tried www.genuinereplacementparts.com/? If you can't find your part there is always ebay. Though I find this method hit or miss. Good luck.
The Bushing kinda floats free. If you are going to remove the rear bushing first, you will find the Bushing does slop around a LITTLE. You can use your punch to move the Bushing from side to side and top to bottom to be able to hit the outside edge of the bearing to free it. Just hit it 3 times in each of the left, right, top and bottom position. Mine came out in about 4 or 5 rounds. Now the Front bearing.....its seems I will have to spray with WD 40 and wait for tomorrow to try to get that one out.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I did the ACTUAL bearing job in just under 2 hours, and YES, I needed this video (as well as one other) to get this done, BUT from start to finish, the whole job took over 6 hours. Like Mr. Outdoorsman mentioned, I cleaned EVERYTHING while I had the machine apart! My drain hoses were N-A-S-T-Y - the little front hose was completely clogged, and my pump-to-house-plumbing hose was full of 20 years of gunk. I don't think that the pump will know what to do now that it won't have to work so hard! The outer tub needed a thorough cleaning, too, and I had (eew) mold growing in my bleach/fabric softener water supply area (had to take the soap "thing" apart to get to all of it." The machine was like peeling an onion - the more I got into it, the more I needed to clean! BTW, the rear bearing failed, and the front seal was worn out, so I was finding oil stains on my clothing. Not anymore though! Good vid - thanks!
Thanks for a great video. Any issues with the sleeve between the two bearings being the wrong way around? What is the purpose of the bevelled end? As with other commenters, my model didn’t have a retaining ring behind the rear bearing (nor a groove for it it sit) - but did seem to have a rubber seal between the rear bearing and the sleeve. Not sure if that needs to be replaced or can be left out? Finally, I’m having real difficulty removing the metallic ring from the base of the shaft on the back of the tub. It’s like it’s welded on there. I think my options are to just leave it (rather than replace it with the new one that came with the seal) or take a Dremel to it. Any thoughts on the best option?
I wish I could see the actual part number on your video... It is blurred out. However great video! I found the bearing and seal assy. on amazon, just want to make sure it's exact.. Thank you!
The inner bearing is rust welded inside and no matter how much I beat the hell out of it, I can't get it to budge... Any ideas what else to try? I even applied a rust penetrant and am soaking it now.
@@ericszymanski1194 There is another gentleman commenting on my video asking the same thing. Seems as if you both have bearings that were far worse then mine. He provide a link to another TH-camr who cut the bearings out using a Dremel. Took some time but he got it done. Here is the link. th-cam.com/video/xVDGfmwkvpk/w-d-xo.html Let me know how it worked for you. Good luck!
I dont know if you will ever see this or remember but did your washer bearing shaft have a sleeve on it and did you put it back in? Mine fractured and the replacement is $150.
the reason why the washer runs quieter while testing after replacing bearings because of brushless direct current motor which has no brushes inside while operates & works well. drain pumps sometimes loud if problems but not too loud & much quieter too. silent washer than mah3000aaw & mah4000aaw too.
I wanted to fix mine myself. The washer is in excellent condition, except for the bearings. Local parts distributor won't sell the bearings without the outer plastic drum.($750)
How in the hell did you get the bellow clamp back on the outer drum? This spring is a pain in the ass and the thing keeps ripping the bellow off the v slot when I try to pull everything together
Are your referring to the retaining clip for the outer bearing? If so you will need a pair of snap ring pliers. Can you reference a time stamp in the video you are referring to and maybe I can suggest something for you.
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. Just curious what would be the danger of letting the machine work with a pinned spacer between two bearings? I've seated them too far in and the spacer got slightly jammed between them. I was able to move it out of the shaft's way with my finger, but it is definitely not free to move in there. Did not want to beat out new bearings to free the spacer, because 1) did not want to damage them and 2) laziness. So I put the machine back together and it works fine, but I am worried that the jammed spacer may damage the bearings, shaft, or the motor. Any input? Leave it or redo?
I know you already put it back together but I would have tried to take a rod through the opening and pounded out one of the bearings a 1/16th of an inch to provide more space. My thinking is if you can "slightly" move it to align the shaft then it should be ok. It may free itself more over time.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Yes, it is not jammed solid, so it should not impede the shaft to cause the motor failure. Ran two loads today, quiet as a mouse. Thanks again!
Point of info: The plastic piece that the rubber blatter goes on. There's a dog and slot at the bottom. Line them up before you start the spring clips. From experience you can super glue the broke dog back on...
I can not for the life of me punch out the larger front bearing. Parts of this project have been a struggle. Punching the shaft through, I had to buy snap ring pliers to remove the rear bearing. Rolling out this heavy beast to work on it turned out to be easy with PVC. But now I'm stuck again. F%#K!
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Thank you! I ended up asking my mechanic for some tools. He lent me a sledge and rod with a 2" disk at the end. I did some things to keep the tub from moving forward too much. I beat it out! Brutal!
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Another question - When installing the drum into the tub, I was able to get the shaft within 3mm of being flush with the belt wheel. I'm using the machine now but will open the back again when the new belt comes. I'm afraid to crank the bolt on the wheel any more to draw in the shaft and drum. Any ideas to get it flush? My measurement before breakdown shows very close to the same as reinstall. About 29mm shaft showing. I put the larger interior bearing in first. I was able to visually verify it was seated all of the way by viewing from behind. The snap ring seated correctly on top of the rear bearing. Thanks.
@UCRHayc-9tWjwqQ%F0%9F%98%89%F0%9F%98%89FCoeRyAcw Glad you were able to remove it - my thoughts when doing mine was, if I screw it up the Mrs gets a new washer
@@jmasno5 I have read that as long as it is in the same place as when you took it apart you should be ok, hence the reasoning for measure before you disassembled it. I actually used the fly wheel to draw it into the final measurement because I too was a tad bit short from when I started. How does it sound now that the bearing has been replaced?
U forgot to tell the real dummies out there to unplug the machine from electric before starting. I need this very thing done on my Neptune but have no one. Ur wife is so lucky to have such a handy guy. I’m sooo jealous. 😆
Note to SELF:
When some helpful person on TH-cam just pops out that old bearing with a few light taps, YOUR corrosion-welded clunker is probably going to require an hour of pounding with all the strength you've got throwing a 5lb lump hammer at a railroad spike.
-> But a heartfelt thanks anyway for taking the time to make this video as my old machine is working beautifully now. Cheers!
I was very fortunate that the bearings were not corroded on my machine. Happy to hear that you were able to get past the removal phase and the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
I found that once the front bearing reached the weeping hole (at about the 6 o'clock position) in the cylinder, you can spray WD40 around the bearing and hit it backwards towards the rear of the unit. Spray some more and hit it forward. Do this about 5 times and the bearing will come out. Hitting the bearings back in is also a chore.
Thanks bud. Well done video. Followed tutorial step by step and was able to repair my washer with your help. Take care
Awesome. Happy to hear the video was helpful!
Good video.
I still have my 1998 Neptune and retired now and will be changing the bearings sometime. The drum still spins freely by my hand and I don't see any water leakage out the back. In fact it still looks new back there. My replacement in the mean time is a Speed Queen front loader. I've had it 10 years and I've only replaced the door lock mechanism and the front seal on it. My Neptune I think the motor control board went bad. It was doing weird things like it had a mind of its own. I have a new conversion motor and board ordered. The Speed Queen is one heavy washer. It has concrete blocks in the case to keep it from vibrating. I looked at buying a new Neptune back then but I read they were crap after Amana bought out Maytag.
Hey, just wanted to say thank you! I've always been a big DIY'er, I've had rental properties and have always done my own projects because it can save a person LOADS of money, and your video was much more detailed than others I've watched. The only issue I personally had was that, my inner bearing was "literally" rusted and broken in too many pieces to count, and the innermost part of the bearing was still stuck inside! I did'nt realize it until I tried to install the new bearing and it did not go in near enough. I thought it was part of the drum assembly!! Finally got it removed, then followed the remainder of your video, and that's all she wrote! Would'nt have been able to do it without this, much appreciation!!
Hello Carlos. Happy to hear the video was helpful!. I completely understand your mind set of doing things yourself. The few times I have had a contractor come in I say to myself " I could have done that". Granted they get it done quicker (sometimes) but paying someone to do something that I can do myself does not set well with me. Thanks for watching and keep up the DIY spirit.
Thank you for the very well done tutorial video. That job has been on my list for years now. Lol
Your welcome ! Happy to hear it was helpful.
Literally step by step. Appreciate it very much. I like to try and fix things when I can versus replacing them and this couldn’t have made it easier for me.
Happy to hear it was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent tutorial. The best one on You Tube that I have seen. Thank you
Glad the video was helpful 👍 Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the really helpful video, step by step. This is a really tough job but my husband did it and now our machine is quiet. It would be helpful to have the steps go through all the putting it back together process. Some of the reassembling is tricky too. Our bearings came out with great difficulty. Penetrating oil was helpful.
Hey, you did an awesome job and thanks for the help. They wanted $1,100 to repair mine and I thought that was insane so I did some research, found the parts and this video. You happen to be doing the same exact model as I own.
Anyhow, a couple of notes that might help others - things I know from my days as a mechanic. (1) getting the inner drum out is best done with a hammer and a block of wood, like you said. If just a little more persuasion is required, use a brass rod. I have a 3/4" diameter brass rod that is used for just that reason because the brass will dent before the steel is damaged. (2) I happen to have a seal removal tool. they help but in the end, it does not matter if you maul the seal removing it with a screwdriver since you have a new one (3) the best way to drive in a bearing is with a bearing race and seal driver. They ensure it gets driven straight, even and to the correct depth. The tool is about $30 and might be worth it if you are young and maybe plan to work on cars also. I've always been a fan of having the right tool for the right job.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I agree with you, it's nice having the right tool for the right job but sometimes I am not sure what the right tool is. Thanks for the extra tips as well.
Hi Jeffery, thanks for the tip about using Bearing Race And Seal Driver Set, it really made installing the front so easy and error free without having to take the tub out, also I saw in another video about keeping bearings in freezer and applying some lubricating oil, all these made the installation a breeze.
Very good video. It is a highly educational instruction performance. The light of video's pictures , motion, with step-by-step instruction and timing detail are mostly perfect. I have learned a lot from this video and thinking that I will do myself bearing replacement without any problem.
Compared to many other bearing replacement instruction video that I have been watching; this is the best and clear.
I would recommend anyone who want to repair oneself, viewing this video instead of spend lot of times on others. One think is He hasn't tell me that what is the bearing Kit manufacturer's name, which he has bought for $50. However, thank you, The handy OutdoorsMan's.
Glad the video was helpful. You can order the replacement parts off of Amazon. Just put in your washer model and they have several to choose from. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for so detailed video I was looking for. 👌
Glad the video was helpful.
Don't drive the inner bearing in too far. Mine seized up on the bearing spacer and I could not hammer out the new bearing with the spacer wedged in the way it was. I am used to bearings stopping when they reach a retaining lip but this inner bearing just keeps going in. My guess is you leave the spacer a little loose in there and then it will fully tighten up AFTER you reinstall the drum and tighten the bolt holding the spindle on. Also, that collar that goes over the drum shaft has a rubber gasket on the underside. Mine was torn up when I removed it and I had to order it. Keep this in mind if you are wanting to do the job in one day, you will want to make sure you have that as well as your bearing and seal kit.
Thank you for showing how you got it done. :-)
Your welcome. Were you able to get yours done?
Appreciate the video as I am about to do my bearings. One thing I disagree with you on is the fact you split the internal seal. IMO, you insert the seal as one unit, lube the land where the seal rides on the shaft and install the inner drum that way. In case your seal sits slightly different from the original, you could get a leak past that seal. One tip, you could have put the bolt back into the shaft to save the end from mushrooming when you pounded it out
Nice video, I had the control panel lit up but the buttons not responding. Took the board out and replaced about all of the capacitors and fixed problems. That was about 3 years ago and still going ( after I replace the tub bearings again).
Great video! My 1st gen Neptune is 21 years old and working fine but someday I will start hearing the tub rumble. Did have the motor toast out doing a really heavy load at 14 years. Maytag sold me the motor and gave me the control board for free as apparently when the motor dies it takes out the motor control board also.
Thanks for detailed video, glad I found it, because it only one that matches my model.
Happy to hear it was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. So helpful. Thank you very much. Steve
Your welcome.
Brother I'm here to check off a honey do 😂 thank you!
I hear you on that! 1 down 99 more to go 😏
Great video man... washer working like new again 💪
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
If you put the new bearings in the freezer for an hour and get them real cold, they shrink enough to make them go back in a lot easier.
I did mine about two years ago. I should’ve measured the shaft like you did. now at high speeds, it start to make noise again, so I wonder if I pounded the bearings and two hard sort of did the same thing you did when putting the new bearings I used the old bearings to pound in the new bearings however, at the end there was a torque rating on my sheet and I went with that for the final torque on the pulley in the back, my unit did not have that white plastic clip that goes in the tub in front of the bearing nor did I have a snap ring on the back of mine.
Great video! About to do my washer in the next few days. I might have missed it, but what is the bearing Part numbers? 6207 and 6206?
Been a few years since I did this project - don't remember the part numbers.
I did get my parts from www.repairclinic.com/, maybe you can type in your model and serial number to get your specific parts?
Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks, I tried "repair clinic" with no luck. I was hoping to get the bearings before I started, anyway, I will remove them them and take them to my bearing supplier.
Bearings are 6206 and 6207!
@@bobmoss9845 Thank you for posting.
I was ready to tackle this job but the washer maybe too heavy to move out of the closet. Questions: How much water is left in the tub normally? When I manually spin the tub I can hear a lot in there. Can I get it out to lighten the machine?
Also, how much will the weight lighten when I remove the door, front, and top? Any other ideas would be much appreciated.
I have the parts ready to go. I've been putting this job off for at least a year and a half. LOL
Hello, this is more of a general question, not directly related to the video. My wife and I purchased our Maytag Neptune washer and dryer set approximately 2005 (at least we think so as the serial number seems to indicate it is a Feb 2005 model washer. Anyway, it is a front loader with a solid door, model number MAH5500BWQ. The machine has been running well with one noticeable issue; the door seal (boot) has a few holes in it. I have never addressed it because there are no noticeable leaks and I was told I was better off just buying a new machine...after watching your videos, I am thinking I can just replace the boot and keep on using the machine. My question is, since there are definitely some holes in the boot, is there a likelihood that there are other problems that I need to address? Also, since I will have it opened up, what else should I do in terms of preventative maintenance, or tune up? Asking because the machine has never been opened up and there are likely things on the cusp of failing; I would like to do a one time repair and keep it running another 17 years. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance for your time.
I only addressed the issues at hand (loud bearing sound). Understand your thoughts on fixing everything at once, however I am not a subject matter expert on this. My suggestion would be to research each component of concern and see if taking it all a part at all at once to fix it. Since the bearing was a major task, if not required I would not replace it if not necessary.
Hi thanks great video followed your instructions put everything back for some reason it’s leaking through two holes right next to the bearing. Do you happen to have these holes and what are these for? I am afraid that the Seal is not fully compressed.
Glad the video was helpful. I do not have those holes on mine. Perhaps as you said the bearing is not in pressed in all the way. Good luck.
I believe around 24.x you demonstrated putting the seal on the wrong direction. at 27.x its on the correct direction.
You are correct, was demonstrating that the seal needed to go on. Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the video! I completed the job, the drum spins freely and quiet once again! However I now notice a burning smell during spin cycle.. Any ideas?
The only thing that it might be is the belt. Did you move the motor at all during the process? It might be to tight.
Seemed to go away after two spin cycles. Didn't touch the motor, but I Think all is good! Thanks for the reply
Seems like Maytag washers and dryers break down more than other laundry top brands. My apartment building has Maytag washers and dryers and they are always breaking down.
How long ago was this repair done? How has the washing machine performed since the bearing replacement? I've checked with local applicance repair companies and nobody wants to do this repair. Some want to replace the whole drum. Others say junk it. It is 20 years old, but works fine other than the bearings are noisy.
It has been 13 months since I did the repair. Still working great! Took 5 hours start to finish to tear down and put back together but worth it.
what's the sign of the bearings going? Just Noisy spin cycle? Mine sounds loud and buzzy when it spins. Great video BTW, I feel like I could do this job myself following your directions
For me, yes it was the spin cycle. Sounded like a freight train was coming through. Good luck !!
Could you leave the link to where you got the bearing kit to purchase?
Got my parts from www.repairclinic.com/
Great video thank you. Where did you get the parts from?
Repairclinc.com I like this site because if I order the wrong part I can return it no questions asked. Thanks for watching!
The Handy Outdoorsman thanks for the video. Surprisingly repairclinic only has the whole rear drum for my model mah6500aww for $1100. More than I paid for the washer in first place. :-o. Gonna check elsewhere.
@@jckowal7381 WOW talk about sticker shock, yea I would check around as well. Have you tried www.genuinereplacementparts.com/? If you can't find your part there is always ebay. Though I find this method hit or miss. Good luck.
If I may where did you buy your barrings from? Thanks in advance
I got my parts online: www.repairclinic.com/ enter your make and model and they should have it.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I appreciate the reply thanks again
Oil and grease have a deferent PH. I only uses grease on grease never mix oil and grease . Found out the hard way years ago working on a farm tractor.
DOES THE BUSHING FLOAT FREE OR IS IT SNUG BETWEEN THE BEARINGS?
The Bushing kinda floats free. If you are going to remove the rear bushing first, you will find the Bushing does slop around a LITTLE. You can use your punch to move the Bushing from side to side and top to bottom to be able to hit the outside edge of the bearing to free it. Just hit it 3 times in each of the left, right, top and bottom position. Mine came out in about 4 or 5 rounds. Now the Front bearing.....its seems I will have to spray with WD 40 and wait for tomorrow to try to get that one out.
@@AmericaRepublicNow THANK YOU
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video. How long did it take you?
Your welcome. About 5 hours
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I did the ACTUAL bearing job in just under 2 hours, and YES, I needed this video (as well as one other) to get this done, BUT from start to finish, the whole job took over 6 hours. Like Mr. Outdoorsman mentioned, I cleaned EVERYTHING while I had the machine apart! My drain hoses were N-A-S-T-Y - the little front hose was completely clogged, and my pump-to-house-plumbing hose was full of 20 years of gunk. I don't think that the pump will know what to do now that it won't have to work so hard! The outer tub needed a thorough cleaning, too, and I had (eew) mold growing in my bleach/fabric softener water supply area (had to take the soap "thing" apart to get to all of it." The machine was like peeling an onion - the more I got into it, the more I needed to clean! BTW, the rear bearing failed, and the front seal was worn out, so I was finding oil stains on my clothing. Not anymore though! Good vid - thanks!
Thanks for a great video. Any issues with the sleeve between the two bearings being the wrong way around? What is the purpose of the bevelled end?
As with other commenters, my model didn’t have a retaining ring behind the rear bearing (nor a groove for it it sit) - but did seem to have a rubber seal between the rear bearing and the sleeve. Not sure if that needs to be replaced or can be left out?
Finally, I’m having real difficulty removing the metallic ring from the base of the shaft on the back of the tub. It’s like it’s welded on there. I think my options are to just leave it (rather than replace it with the new one that came with the seal) or take a Dremel to it. Any thoughts on the best option?
Beveled edge goes toward rear bearing. Actually have my washer apart in my kitchen right now. Reviewing videos on setting the rear seal.
I wish I could see the actual part number on your video... It is blurred out. However great video! I found the bearing and seal assy. on amazon, just want to make sure it's exact..
Thank you!
Glad the video was helpful. Nice thing about Amazon is you can return an open package. Good luck!
The inner bearing is rust welded inside and no matter how much I beat the hell out of it, I can't get it to budge... Any ideas what else to try? I even applied a rust penetrant and am soaking it now.
@@ericszymanski1194 There is another gentleman commenting on my video asking the same thing. Seems as if you both have bearings that were far worse then mine. He provide a link to another TH-camr who cut the bearings out using a Dremel. Took some time but he got it done. Here is the link. th-cam.com/video/xVDGfmwkvpk/w-d-xo.html Let me know how it worked for you. Good luck!
I dont know if you will ever see this or remember but did your washer bearing shaft have a sleeve on it and did you put it back in?
Mine fractured and the replacement is $150.
Yes there was a sleeve and put it back in. Have you tried looking on eBay?
the reason why the washer runs quieter while testing after replacing bearings because of brushless direct current motor which has no brushes inside while operates & works well. drain pumps sometimes loud if problems but not too loud & much quieter too. silent washer than mah3000aaw & mah4000aaw too.
Perhaps this is true as I don't do much of this type of repairs. Either way the washer is 90% quieter and the Mrs. is happy!
I wanted to fix mine myself. The washer is in excellent condition, except for the bearings. Local parts distributor won't sell the bearings without the outer plastic drum.($750)
I got my parts online: www.repairclinic.com/ enter your make and model and they should have it.
Do you know what the MFG. date for your washer is? Thank you
Sorry I do not know that. Would be a lot of work to unconnect everything and pull it back out
How in the hell did you get the bellow clamp back on the outer drum? This spring is a pain in the ass and the thing keeps ripping the bellow off the v slot when I try to pull everything together
Are your referring to the retaining clip for the outer bearing? If so you will need a pair of snap ring pliers. Can you reference a time stamp in the video you are referring to and maybe I can suggest something for you.
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. Just curious what would be the danger of letting the machine work with a pinned spacer between two bearings? I've seated them too far in and the spacer got slightly jammed between them. I was able to move it out of the shaft's way with my finger, but it is definitely not free to move in there. Did not want to beat out new bearings to free the spacer, because 1) did not want to damage them and 2) laziness. So I put the machine back together and it works fine, but I am worried that the jammed spacer may damage the bearings, shaft, or the motor. Any input? Leave it or redo?
I know you already put it back together but I would have tried to take a rod through the opening and pounded out one of the bearings a 1/16th of an inch to provide more space. My thinking is if you can "slightly" move it to align the shaft then it should be ok. It may free itself more over time.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Yes, it is not jammed solid, so it should not impede the shaft to cause the motor failure. Ran two loads today, quiet as a mouse. Thanks again!
Point of info: The plastic piece that the rubber blatter goes on. There's a dog and slot at the bottom. Line them up before you start the spring clips. From experience you can super glue the broke dog back on...
How did you make the metal sleeve that you called a bushing line up with the bearings so the drum could be installed ?
I had no issues in sliding in the drum, the bushing was a bit smaller then the bearing but it fit right in.
What gasket sealant did you use?
This depends on the unit you have.
Do you have the link for the bearing kit or could you tell me the third party you for it from thanks
Don't have the part number handy, however I did get my parts from www.repairclinic.com/
How much you charge for this job my friend.
thank you!
You're welcome!
Would you happen to know what the part number is
Might be too late for answer but my washer said nd and now won't open, it has said nd before and has opened before
Thanks
Your welcome, thanks for watching.
I can not for the life of me punch out the larger front bearing. Parts of this project have been a struggle. Punching the shaft through, I had to buy snap ring pliers to remove the rear bearing. Rolling out this heavy beast to work on it turned out to be easy with PVC. But now I'm stuck again. F%#K!
I have had other viewers say the same thing, theirs was worse then mine. Some say they just took a bigger hammer to it
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Thank you! I ended up asking my mechanic for some tools. He lent me a sledge and rod with a 2" disk at the end. I did some things to keep the tub from moving forward too much. I beat it out! Brutal!
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 Another question - When installing the drum into the tub, I was able to get the shaft within 3mm of being flush with the belt wheel. I'm using the machine now but will open the back again when the new belt comes. I'm afraid to crank the bolt on the wheel any more to draw in the shaft and drum. Any ideas to get it flush? My measurement before breakdown shows very close to the same as reinstall. About 29mm shaft showing. I put the larger interior bearing in first. I was able to visually verify it was seated all of the way by viewing from behind. The snap ring seated correctly on top of the rear bearing. Thanks.
@UCRHayc-9tWjwqQ%F0%9F%98%89%F0%9F%98%89FCoeRyAcw Glad you were able to remove it - my thoughts when doing mine was, if I screw it up the Mrs gets a new washer
@@jmasno5 I have read that as long as it is in the same place as when you took it apart you should be ok, hence the reasoning for measure before you disassembled it. I actually used the fly wheel to draw it into the final measurement because I too was a tad bit short from when I started. How does it sound now that the bearing has been replaced?
U forgot to tell the real dummies out there to unplug the machine from electric before starting. I need this very thing done on my Neptune but have no one. Ur wife is so lucky to have such a handy guy. I’m sooo jealous. 😆
Hopefully everyone knows to do this first. Thanks for watching.
The Handy Outdoors Man has a groupie!!!
If you have to be told that you shouldn't be doing this repair. Natural selection. Let stoopid be stoopid