I love that he's fixing exactly my model of 35-year-old Maytag washer! It gives me confidence to fix mine. This is an excellent video. Well thought-out, very clear stepwise instructions with a lot of experienced value-added. Thank-you!
This helped me fix my seals and bearing in our 24 year old Maytag! It was slightly leaking (maybe half a cup) once in every 6 washes. Bought the oem parts for under $60 at a local appliance store. I forgot the front bolt holding the outer tub is shorter than the two back ones and I had some weird whirling noise and a burnt rubber smell. I took everything apart and did it again, this time with the short bolt in front and I didn't tighten too tightly using the spanner wrench. I think I tighten it too much and the belt was having a hard time spinning? Now it works well. Didn't know there was sooo much calcium sediment under the upper tub and on the inner tub. Thanks for the great video!
What an excellent video! The photography was perfect, and the instructions were really detailed. Thanks to you, I was able to do that exact same bearing replacement on my old Maytag that I bought back in the mid-eighties. Just a few days ago, the seal went, and I was debating whether to buy a new machine or rebuild this one. You saved me lots of money, plus the satisfaction of fixing it myself. Whoever you are in that video, you did a fantastic job and many thanks!
Just wanted to say thank you for the excellet video, my Maytag is newer but takes the exact same bearing and it was frozen solid to the sleve, locking it tight. Works like new now, thank you!
Great video! My Maytag is slightly different from this model but the mechanics are very similar. I bought a spanner wrench from Ebay that was not usable without cutting off the 4 teeth by 1/8 each. Even then, the cutout circle was too narrow to revove the transmission nut. I simple struck it with a hammer and small square punch and it loosened easily. My real issue was the transmission spline sleeve was frozen to the spline. I had to split the old one after making a groove with a grinding wheel. Aside from that, only issue was my bottom tub needed epoxy due to a small rust hole. I CAUTION EVERYBODY TO CLOSELY EXAMINE THE BOTTOM TUB FOR RUST HOLES. I only exposed this one, which my have never been a real issue of leak until I pressure washed and scraped it to remove years of calcium and scum deposits.
I repair these washers all the time we have 18 laundromats and close to 75 of this exact model but with the coin op package i have to say they are bulletproof recently bought 25 new maytag top loaders and they are broken on a daily basis a true testimate to the quality of years past
I'm repairing one of these now, an LA712, which hasn't leaked for its +35 years of service, but now the outer tub has rusted through. I'm fixing that, but I'm concerned with the rust buildup on the shaft, where the top of the tub seal touches. It's certainly not all smooth and shiny like the one on this video's newer orbital transmission! This one still has the original transmission, which I'd like to keep. Have you had to deal with one that bad? I'm hoping a good sanding will work and not make it too skinny for the seal. Thanks!
Very clear and complete disassembly instructions. Thank you. The bearing is making noise and I want to see if it needs grease or replacement. Several sites placed "grease tub bearing" in their titles without featuring any details about how to access or service the part. Thank you for both your thoroughness and integrity.
Great presentation. I watched in order to find out how the outer drum seal fit. I took one end of the clamp apart and I think that was easier than trying to pry it off and on. I was looking to see if there was anything between the inner and outer drums. There wasn't. What I did find, after taking all of that apart is that the flapping noise is from loose belts! I don't know why they are loose. They are only 35 years and 2 months old! Where did you find a brand new looking A412? I wish things were still built to last like they used to be. I also have a 64 year old LECO edger that I got from my Dad. Other than occasional maintenance, it still works great! Clinton engine.
This video makes it look very doable but I'd suggest looking at others as well. The bearing caps will usually be seized into position. These parts will need to be forced/broken off. I had my Maytag serviced many years ago. Not many will work these because of the difficulty. 😮
I have the same issue. I’m wondering if the chirping I hear is from the pulleys and belts under machine that can cause the same noise. But it is a great videos.
Some videos show the large clamping nut removed clockwise and others going count-clockwise. How can I tell which direction to use for my maytag Centennial washer?
If you have the model as I do, similar to the LA510, and can't find an Agitamer, which is impossible to find on short notice. Take heavy duty cardboard, and shove it in around the agitator, leave a little space for your hands, and put the cardboard in, so it provides a little bit of pressure on the agitator, but not as much to break it (about 1/2"-5/8" of cardboard) this way you won't damage the porcelain, and the agitator will break free.
Apparently the washer in the video was fairly new because it is a whole different story on a 35 year old machine. Also, the Maytag spanner wrench is no longer available, but the two piece spanners on Amazon do somewhat fit, but hammering turned out to be useless anyway as the aluminum threads on the collar nuts were seized permanently to the steel threads. I used a cutoff wheel on my hand rotary grinder to make some cuts before chiseling the collar nuts and steel sleeve off. (Tip: use some automotive anti-seize grease on the aluminum threads during reassembly to hopefully avoid the galling in the future). It's a hell of a lot of work, but after doing some research on the durability and cost of the washers that are available today I think it was worth the effort. "Smart washers".....what a joke!
I'm in the middle of this task right now, and this video has been extremely helpful! But I wonder if I should apply a thin film of grease (I have some automotive bearing grease) on the bearing sleeve? Thank you very much! Rob
I have the same (or very similar) model washer as what you show in this incredibly useful video. I suspect that my transmission may be bad. With the drive pulley and lug stop out, should the output drive on the transmission spin freely? Mine doesn't move at all. Thanks for any help!
i have a maytag washer from 1981, the plunger on the lid switch broke off and i was able to poke in the hole and it still started but not stay on when i let go.. then i mustve broken the spring inside too...now all repairs ive tried to find, show the whole switch replacement when all i think i need is the plunger piece..problem is i dont know how to get into the washer..one video of an old washer showed just using a putty type knife to pry up the top but in your video which looks more like my washer,..shows id have to get under the front to unscrew the screws to remove the front panel first and then unscrew under the top with a ratchet...will your video be the way to go? and will i be able to access that plunger from there once i open the top? im trying to do this repair myself before i bring in someone else thanks
I replaced the tube seal kit due to the outer tub leaking right above the transmission. I got it back together, ran it full of water and no leaks. Put a large load in it and it started leaking again. I am going to attempted to replace the tub bearing and hope that will fix the leak. That is the only other thing that is above the transmission or to leak out of the center of the outer tube.
If the tub bearing is rusted or corroded on the top of the outer sleeve, it may interfere with the boot seal and cause the washer to leak. Take note at about the 16:25 mark of the video. If you have replaced the mounting stem/boot seal kit and the boot seal is fitting tight on the outer tub, then the tub bearing is most likely your problem.
19:47 I was able to successfully do the repair, everything works now but there’s a small water leak from tub cover gasket. It appeared to be in good condition and after a bit of monkeying around it went in place and appeared to be seated right. I’m ordering a new seal in case the rubber is just old. Anyone have any extra tips in regards to making sure it seals up? I followed the procedure here. Kept the rear clamp in original position and only adjusted the front. Lifted the band clamp onto the gasket with a large flathead screwdriver
Does anyone know for the 3 tub bolts with the beveled rubber washer, does the rubber washer sit flat against the inside of the tub or flat against the inside of the bolt?
I'm having a terrible time getting my 35-year-old Maytag LA512 apart. I was able to cut off the top ring nut after failing to loosen it with "Liquid Wrench," a blowtorch, a 4 lb hammer, etc. Now the set screw (allen wrench) on the seal won't come loose, either. I'm just about ready to try to cut the set screw out with a chisel, but is there another way (It's probably too hard to drill out) ? And if I do get that set screw out, I'm concerned that I'll not be able to loosen the mounting stem / seal.
I'm doing this repair right now and can't for the life of me get the mounting stem to break loose. I'm guessing the transmission shouldn't turn when I hit the spanner wrench with my hand sledge. Does anyone have any tips to get it off?
That's a very good video. Problem is, while replacing the bearing and seal kit fixed the leak, the washer remains loud. As if the bearing is not getting lubrication. I assume that the bearing is self-lubricating bronze, but now I wonder if I should have added some lithium grease or something?
If the washer is loud in the spin cycle, you may have a problem with the radial bearing that the transmission sits on. The enclosed video link will show the disassembly procedure for this repair. th-cam.com/video/VCxpJYZP6iA/w-d-xo.html
I just put in a new seal which was fine. After assembling everything I can't keep it balanced. I tighten up the nut to hold the drum in place and after spinning a bit it starts banging and clattering. Springs all look good. Any suggestions?
Hi I have a maytag la608. It isn't leaking. It can't get up to spin speed before motor clicks out. The drum is hard to turn by hand. I wondering if the bearing(s) are tight. Any suggestions???
I wasn't as ballsy reassembling mine. I used a dead-blow hammer to seat the new bearing. Upon sanding the inside of my tub, there was some breakage, so that had to be fixed with "Liquid Metal" and "Red-High-Temp" Gasket sealer.
Well, taking a 35-year-old washer apart is not nearly as easy as he makes it look. Everything is rusted and stuck together. I may have to go the "Sharp Chisel" approach, but I'm not sure there are any threads left....
I don't why most ppl like the orbital transmissions it's just a footprint of whirlpools idea of agitation not Maytags original classic transmission which mine has thankfully
"we'll use our bearing removal/installation tool."
5 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Sadly they don make this washers anymore, newer Maytag changed and now are all plastic Whirlpool. This transmissions work fine for 15+ years in a Loundromat business, they need only new upper and lower bearings every 10 years.
Very nice to see a master technician at work. He does everything just so, no half measures.
I never could have done this job without the guidance you provided. I went back and referred to the video several times. Invaluable!
I love that he's fixing exactly my model of 35-year-old Maytag washer! It gives me confidence to fix mine. This is an excellent video. Well thought-out, very clear stepwise instructions with a lot of experienced value-added. Thank-you!
Mine is also 35 years old. They were definitely made to last back then.
I LOVE IM !!!
Bless you Sr.
Thanks a lot
This helped me fix my seals and bearing in our 24 year old Maytag! It was slightly leaking (maybe half a cup) once in every 6 washes. Bought the oem parts for under $60 at a local appliance store.
I forgot the front bolt holding the outer tub is shorter than the two back ones and I had some weird whirling noise and a burnt rubber smell. I took everything apart and did it again, this time with the short bolt in front and I didn't tighten too tightly using the spanner wrench. I think I tighten it too much and the belt was having a hard time spinning? Now it works well. Didn't know there was sooo much calcium sediment under the upper tub and on the inner tub. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you! Just did the repairs and extended the life of my old reliable washer!
What an excellent video! The photography was perfect, and the instructions were really detailed. Thanks to you, I was able to do that exact same bearing replacement on my old Maytag that I bought back in the mid-eighties. Just a few days ago, the seal went, and I was debating whether to buy a new machine or rebuild this one. You saved me lots of money, plus the satisfaction of fixing it myself. Whoever you are in that video, you did a fantastic job and many thanks!
Many thanks!!! A great visual guide!!!
Just wanted to say thank you for the excellet video, my Maytag is newer but takes the exact same bearing and it was frozen solid to the sleve, locking it tight. Works like new now, thank you!
Thank you for the knowledge! 40 year old machine still running like a tank thanks to you!
Great video! My Maytag is slightly different from this model but the mechanics are very similar. I bought a spanner wrench from Ebay that was not usable without cutting off the 4 teeth by 1/8 each. Even then, the cutout circle was too narrow to revove the transmission nut. I simple struck it with a hammer and small square punch and it loosened easily. My real issue was the transmission spline sleeve was frozen to the spline. I had to split the old one after making a groove with a grinding wheel. Aside from that, only issue was my bottom tub needed epoxy due to a small rust hole. I CAUTION EVERYBODY TO CLOSELY EXAMINE THE BOTTOM TUB FOR RUST HOLES. I only exposed this one, which my have never been a real issue of leak until I pressure washed and scraped it to remove years of calcium and scum deposits.
I repair these washers all the time we have 18 laundromats and close to 75 of this exact model but with the coin op package i have to say they are bulletproof recently bought 25 new maytag top loaders and they are broken on a daily basis a true testimate to the quality of years past
I'm repairing one of these now, an LA712, which hasn't leaked for its +35 years of service, but now the outer tub has rusted through. I'm fixing that, but I'm concerned with the rust buildup on the shaft, where the top of the tub seal touches. It's certainly not all smooth and shiny like the one on this video's newer orbital transmission! This one still has the original transmission, which I'd like to keep. Have you had to deal with one that bad? I'm hoping a good sanding will work and not make it too skinny for the seal. Thanks!
thank you very much for making this informative video, exactly what I needed
Good job on the camera work and editing.
My exact washer. Professional step by step instructions. Thank you
Very clear and complete disassembly instructions. Thank you. The bearing is making noise and I want to see if it needs grease or replacement. Several sites placed "grease tub bearing" in their titles without featuring any details about how to access or service the part. Thank you for both your thoroughness and integrity.
Great presentation. I watched in order to find out how the outer drum seal fit. I took one end of the clamp apart and I think that was easier than trying to pry it off and on. I was looking to see if there was anything between the inner and outer drums. There wasn't. What I did find, after taking all of that apart is that the flapping noise is from loose belts! I don't know why they are loose. They are only 35 years and 2 months old! Where did you find a brand new looking A412? I wish things were still built to last like they used to be. I also have a 64 year old LECO edger that I got from my Dad. Other than occasional maintenance, it still works great! Clinton engine.
This video makes it look very doable but I'd suggest looking at others as well. The bearing caps will usually be seized into position. These parts will need to be forced/broken off.
I had my Maytag serviced many years ago. Not many will work these because of the difficulty. 😮
Good day!
Thanks for this video tutorial!
Can I just ask, what kind/type of grease do need to use for the bearings?
excellent youtube fix. Very informative and professional. Thank you sir!
Whoah! Excellent vblog Pops, I can do this wearing my suit! 😆Nice long sleeve shirt & wrist watch you're wearing there doing the repairs!😊
Great video but I would have liked to hear it running before and after to see if it makes the same noise mine is now making.
I have the same issue. I’m wondering if the chirping I hear is from the pulleys and belts under machine that can cause the same noise. But it is a great videos.
Some videos show the large clamping nut removed clockwise and others going count-clockwise. How can I tell which direction to use for my maytag Centennial washer?
If you have the model as I do, similar to the LA510, and can't find an Agitamer, which is impossible to find on short notice. Take heavy duty cardboard, and shove it in around the agitator, leave a little space for your hands, and put the cardboard in, so it provides a little bit of pressure on the agitator, but not as much to break it (about 1/2"-5/8" of cardboard) this way you won't damage the porcelain, and the agitator will break free.
Great Help! Excellent video and explanation.
what a well made video! Thanks!
Great Great Video... Why are you doing this? What issue to start with?
Apparently the washer in the video was fairly new because it is a whole different story on a 35 year old machine. Also, the Maytag spanner wrench is no longer available, but the two piece spanners on Amazon do somewhat fit, but hammering turned out to be useless anyway as the aluminum threads on the collar nuts were seized permanently to the steel threads. I used a cutoff wheel on my hand rotary grinder to make some cuts before chiseling the collar nuts and steel sleeve off. (Tip: use some automotive anti-seize grease on the aluminum threads during reassembly to hopefully avoid the galling in the future). It's a hell of a lot of work, but after doing some research on the durability and cost of the washers that are available today I think it was worth the effort. "Smart washers".....what a joke!
Amazing video. Subscribed!!!
What is the part number for the spanner wrench pls? My washer's nut is 21100472. Thanks. Al
excellent video.
I need to do this! But I don't know what size spanner wrench I need 🙁
I'm in the middle of this task right now, and this video has been extremely helpful! But I wonder if I should apply a thin film of grease (I have some automotive bearing grease) on the bearing sleeve?
Thank you very much!
Rob
Do the spanner wrenches come in different sizes?
I have the same (or very similar) model washer as what you show in this incredibly useful video. I suspect that my transmission may be bad. With the drive pulley and lug stop out, should the output drive on the transmission spin freely? Mine doesn't move at all. Thanks for any help!
i have a maytag washer from 1981, the plunger on the lid switch broke off and i was able to poke in the hole and it still started but not stay on when i let go.. then i mustve broken the spring inside too...now all repairs ive tried to find, show the whole switch replacement when all i think i need is the plunger piece..problem is i dont know how to get into the washer..one video of an old washer showed just using a putty type knife to pry up the top but in your video which looks more like my washer,..shows id have to get under the front to unscrew the screws to remove the front panel first and then unscrew under the top with a ratchet...will your video be the way to go? and will i be able to access that plunger from there once i open the top? im trying to do this repair myself before i bring in someone else thanks
Thank you very much real nice video
I replaced the tube seal kit due to the outer tub leaking right above the transmission. I got it back together, ran it full of water and no leaks. Put a large load in it and it started leaking again. I am going to attempted to replace the tub bearing and hope that will fix the leak. That is the only other thing that is above the transmission or to leak out of the center of the outer tube.
If the tub bearing is rusted or corroded on the top of the outer sleeve, it may interfere with the boot seal and cause the washer to
leak. Take note at about the 16:25 mark of the video. If you have replaced the mounting stem/boot seal kit and the boot seal is fitting tight on the outer tub, then the tub bearing is most likely your problem.
Great video!
19:47 I was able to successfully do the repair, everything works now but there’s a small water leak from tub cover gasket. It appeared to be in good condition and after a bit of monkeying around it went in place and appeared to be seated right. I’m ordering a new seal in case the rubber is just old. Anyone have any extra tips in regards to making sure it seals up? I followed the procedure here. Kept the rear clamp in original position and only adjusted the front. Lifted the band clamp onto the gasket with a large flathead screwdriver
What size is this spanner wrench used to get the bearing lock rings off? And where would I find one?
TB123B
Does anyone know for the 3 tub bolts with the beveled rubber washer, does the rubber washer sit flat against the inside of the tub or flat against the inside of the bolt?
I'm having a terrible time getting my 35-year-old Maytag LA512 apart. I was able to cut off the top ring nut after failing to loosen it with "Liquid Wrench," a blowtorch, a 4 lb hammer, etc. Now the set screw (allen wrench) on the seal won't come loose, either. I'm just about ready to try to cut the set screw out with a chisel, but is there another way (It's probably too hard to drill out) ? And if I do get that set screw out, I'm concerned that I'll not be able to loosen the mounting stem / seal.
I'm doing this repair right now and can't for the life of me get the mounting stem to break loose. I'm guessing the transmission shouldn't turn when I hit the spanner wrench with my hand sledge. Does anyone have any tips to get it off?
That's a very good video. Problem is, while replacing the bearing and seal kit fixed the leak, the washer remains loud. As if the bearing is not getting lubrication. I assume that the bearing is self-lubricating bronze, but now I wonder if I should have added some lithium grease or something?
If the washer is loud in the spin cycle, you may have a problem with the radial bearing that the transmission sits on. The enclosed
video link will show the disassembly procedure for this repair. th-cam.com/video/VCxpJYZP6iA/w-d-xo.html
I just put in a new seal which was fine. After assembling everything I can't keep it balanced. I tighten up the nut to hold the drum in place and after spinning a bit it starts banging and clattering. Springs all look good. Any suggestions?
Hi
I have a maytag la608. It isn't leaking. It can't get up to spin speed before motor clicks out.
The drum is hard to turn by hand. I wondering if the bearing(s) are tight.
Any suggestions???
Im having the same problem did you figure out the problem? And tnx in advance
Are those spanner wrenches still available?
Yes, amazon
What if the tub will not just lift out? It feels as if something is preventing it from lifting more than about a half inch.
When I replace the tub bearing I cannot get it all the way flush against the tub. Is there a secret? There is about a 0.5 mm gap under the rubber.
I wasn't as ballsy reassembling mine. I used a dead-blow hammer to seat the new bearing. Upon sanding the inside of my tub, there was some breakage, so that had to be fixed with "Liquid Metal" and "Red-High-Temp" Gasket sealer.
El agitador que tengo no tiene tornillo de 1/4 como lo puedo sacar
Where can I get that spanner wrench?? I went to Menards, Lowes, and Ace and nobody had it :(
You can order from whirlpool direct
This particular model seem to be a very old type having an enamel outer tub very helpful video.
That was the original “Dependable Care” Maytag washer that was produced for close to fifty years, beginning in 1957.
Well, taking a 35-year-old washer apart is not nearly as easy as he makes it look. Everything is rusted and stuck together. I may have to go the "Sharp Chisel" approach, but I'm not sure there are any threads left....
I don't why most ppl like the orbital transmissions it's just a footprint of whirlpools idea of agitation not Maytags original classic transmission which mine has thankfully
An "angitainer"?
5:23 Left-hand thread?! This should help somebody.
"we'll use our bearing removal/installation tool."
Sadly they don make this washers anymore, newer Maytag changed and now are all plastic Whirlpool. This transmissions work fine for 15+ years in a Loundromat business, they need only new upper and lower bearings every 10 years.
"Couple sharp raps". How about beating the heck out of it for two days and it wont budge?
its a bushing, not a bearing, cheap design
Cheap design? Mine lasted 30 years.
dony buy maytags
Definitely buying a new washer instead of this
Won't last two years then it'll be in an appliance shop getting refurbished