You, dear Sir, should be added to the repairmans Hall of Fame and given a medal!! Just the right amount of "mad scientist" humor and valuable information to fix a "life-altering" issue in my house. You're my hero! I just finished replacing the damaged part and my grandkids have deemed me "Mimi, the Fixer of all things broken". You Rock!! From the bottom of my laundry pile....I say, thank you!
WoW! I have to say, this is the best compliment I've seen yet. I'm smiling. Check out my alter ego...Dr. Paul Bearer and let me know what you think, It's rated G www.youtube.com/@drpaulbearer2/videos
I would like to thank this guy here. My Samsung washer and I have been fighting each other for about 5 years now. True story. I will not let it beat me. When I 1st starting having issues, I replaced the rods. Lasted a little bit then came back. I then replaced the hall/ vibration sensor. It lasted a little bit but came back. I drilled the balance ring out. It lasted a little bit, but came back. I replaced the balance ring, again lasted a bit but came back. This last time I replaced the rods again and the issue was even worse than before. It was just bouncing all over. So after seeing this video, I took apart the older set of rods, removed the foam and replaced it with cut sections of cork tape. The kind that is used on heater boxes in cars. (I’ve had a roll for about 20yrs) I’ve since been able to wash everything from light socks, 8 heavy towels to bed comforters. I have had zero issues. Thanks Again!!!!
The hub solution was perfect for my washing machine, changed the suspension as well for good measure and now it is better than new, with the metal drive hub. The best is your sense of humor in an otherwise dry subject!
Happy to have this video. Did the metal spring swap first, still didn't help. Replaced the plastic with the new metal replacement part and works great. Thanks for the advice and bens appliances for the part and quick delivery.
I previously changed the rods $140- no joy. I ordered a new spline part form whirlpool and installed $30.- no improvement. Then I installed Bens modification per their directions $50. It's now working perfect. No more jumping/banging- no noise...Saved hundreds of dollars from buying a new washer. YES IT WORKS! Thank you Ben and Richard.
27 years . I did my own repairs so it was worth repairing. If I had to pay the service call fees for every little thing it would not have been worth it.
@@jasonmasterson7846 problem was that you didn’t have to replace it every five years. Because I am a handy guy my last washer lasted over twenty years.
I just fixed my washing machine. This man is correct. Start with OEM suspension rods and replace the tube hub. I just got to add one note. The screws for the tube hub, I had to use the original ones because the new ones did not fit correctly. Good luck. Also if you don't want to buy OEM suspension rods watch Blue Ocean on how to repair them. I did this only to prove that the suspension rods were the problem and then bought the OEM ones.
Lmao 🤣😂 I USUALLY complain about the added drama in repair videos but you, sir, are freaking hilarious!! Love your video! I'll look forward to more! Keep up the awesome work!! Right now I am just debating on messing w my washer or buying a new one... Can't really afford a new one so I really should get dirty & fix the problem... I absolutely LOVE how you showed your viewers that it may not be the suspension rods!! Neither job is fun for a female but makes me feel better about doing this. Thank you!! & YES, you totally rock!!
You are a lifesaver! I popped open this washing machine trying to figure out how to stop it from rocking itself 45 degrees from its original position (as well as spin well enough to actually dry my clothing), and it seems that the inner tub has the same rocking issue as you've shown. Hundreds of dollars for a chance to repair a machine we got for free? No thanks, except thanks to you, Richard, for your hilarious and on-point analysis.
Amazing! Credit to Ben’s video too, but this was the gem that hopefully will fix this dreadful issue. Only there is 1 precaution I’m taking is upon reading the multiple comments reviewing these “metal” hub replacements as problematic. The issue is that this “zinc alloy” isn’t tough enough to withstand the torque and over a short period of time as in a few months or even a few loads ends up breaking. One commenter stated that he used JB Weld Steel Stick on the shaft before installing the metal hub after the first one broke and that this has (although permanent) indeed fixed it finally. I will try that method, since otherwise this washer is ready for the dumpster fire.
THanks for the video Richard! i know that's the problem but when the first part comes and the spanner nut hasn't been threaded... that's a true STRUGGLE LOL we do appreciate the video - keep 'em coming!
Great video. I have replaced suspension rods (first) then this metal part replacement. One of the rods was bent and I wonder if the machine damage the new rod(s) before I replaced the metal drive part shown in this video. I did do calibration. Unsure of what to do now.....first load (jeans) ran fine. Next (small) load was colors but REALLY BAD OUT OF BALANCE situation had me crying again. I am wishing to return to the old technology that lasted for years, easier to fix and not such a mystery. Suggestions? Recheck suspension rods? Maybe open the backside of machine and look for something obvious. Last machine lasted 30 years and easy to fix. This POS is less than 5.......
Metal! Wow, what a concept! If these companies would start making quality products again, these parts would not get worn so quickly. Awesome video by the way! New subscriber now.
Ive torn down many of these machines. If it has the rectangle shape gearcase, the tub is not splined. Only the hub is which is a major weakpoint. The square gearcase machines like maytag, do have a splined tub and dont have this type of failure. The metal hub is a temporary fix, as i used them to fix half a dozen machines, most failed in weeks, all by 6 months. I even had a few of the metal ones fail during install, since theres only 1 small metal tab on the inner piece to keep it from spinning while tightening. I now only do that job if replacing the gearcase and hub at the same time or i know i'll be called back in less than a year.
Wow I've been trying to figure out for years why as an appliance repair guy, what was making it go out of balance when the suspension springs where good in literral on a job now and just said what the heck and TH-cam to see if someone had a solution by now. sure enough this washer is doing exactly what you said. Thanks for taking the timeout to show this repair
thank you for sharing all that knowledge and information with all of us who are trying to save a little bit of money here and there and fix our own stuff
Thanks! Another success story here. Our Maytag now works better than when it was new. You would think the factory would just install the metal part to begin with.
I wish I would have found this video 2 weeks ago. Ive replaced the lock sensor due to no start lock lid, then the suspension rods for "thudding", and ran into the same issues you brought up. Did the reset/recalabrate thing and same thing. I gave up and ordered a new washer and it got delivered yesterday . Man good info I just subscribed. keep it up! great video.
I have a Maytag washer with a central agitator and dampening rods at four corners. It has been thrashing quite hard with large loads. Another YT video suggested pushing straight down on the agitator firmly and watching to see if it rebounds without bouncing up and down. Bouncing presumably indicates worn suspension rods without having to take the machine apart. I did this and found a lot of bouncing so I decided to replace the suspension rods soon but had to do a large load of laundry before I could find time to do the repair. To my surprise the washer did not go out of balance in the least. Neither did the next load. Repeating the agitator push revealed no bouncing like before. My theory is that the initial push on the agitator may have unstuck one or more suspension rods so they are all performing nearly equally. In all likelihood I will have to do an actual repair but for now it looks like I pushed it off. (Pun intended 😅)
Ben is really good! When I saw his video on the metal hub, I knew that was the missing link to fix the plague on these units. Good job on the video, and the shout-out to Ben. Cause he was the first to show that gem.
I watched Ben’s video as well, you can’t imagine how many of these units I have scrapped out and sent to the junk yard. I’ve ordered a few of these kits and will try them out next week. Great video, my friend, you’re a hoot!
I just fixed a newer style one and splines were all like new and everything looked ok. The thing had its main nut come loose after 2 of the rods came out of their little cups.. the drum ended up denting all 4 sides of the cab and threw water all over the persons floors.. i got it for free and put her back together with new rods and cab but the thing still wants to shake itself away even with no load. The balance ring is still full of water on top and bottom, basket doesnt move around and inner agitator stays solid with the drum. Only thing i can think of is the actual motor has bent or the drive rod one... one of those direct drive deals with the rod built into the tub and motor bolted directly to the tub..
Thanks for your video, I have a Whirlpool washer that I changed out rods and it still shaked really bad and then watched your video and found out my tub splines were worn out,so I will be ordering that w10324651 hub kit,Thanks again
Thank you sir. I'm about to go through mine. It has progressed from a little banging that smooths out to turn that sunny beach off before it beats a hole through the floor.
Thanks for your video. Your viewers should also know that the OEM rods can cost as much as $79.99 each! May be best to invest that money on a new washer!
I need one for my washing machine after i just replaced the rod suspension...where do i go to order and of course yiur video thats show how to replace it..thank you
I’m glad I ran into this video. I have a Samsung activewash washer and it too was banging bad. Samsung said it was the suspension rods and so did pretty much everyone else. I had my suspicion of the agitator area. The banging did some what ease off but it still continued only liter. The machine also kept adding time to the final load at around 16 mins left then it would jump back to 22 min and this is after the rods were changed. I’m going to look into the agitator now. Thank you! If you have any further tips I would be much appreciative. Thanks again.
Yes, welcome to the Mofo-Life of the "Forever Wash" and the "UE" unbalanced code ... My damned Samsung doing the same thing all thru Dec 2023 and Jan 2024. I've replaced suspension rods and vibration sensor. So, I am hoping to find the MAGICAL CURE. This sucks, but I gotta hand to Samsung. I did not have one problem from Aug 2016 until Dec 2023. And, we really use our washer. So, you are not alone. I hope you get it figured out.
I actually seen Ben video first. But yours came up next. After watching his I literally canceled my Amazon order because of his and just ordered Ben’s parts. Then watched yours. I was literally about to cancel my order from Ben’s and turn off your video. Until you said wait there’s more. I finished watching and decided to keep my order. I replaced my center plastic hub thing this morning for the 2nd time in less than 2 years and ordered those springs from Amazon. Because of its shaking operation. But watched Ben’s that got my to cancel. Then you almost got me to cancel Ben’s. 😅 I am so happy you bought his product and it worked. Hopefully I can be just as happy next week.
Hello Richard I came to your video to tell you that Ben's metal hub does wonders. He was even answering my messages and helping me with some small issue i encountered along the way. My maytag work again.
great video sir i have a question the plastic pieces clips or whatever they call on the bottom of the basket they all gone can i still do the repair or i have to trow the basket away ???
Richard, do you ever recommend going with a 3 yr, 1 yr, etc factory service plan add on at time of new machine sale. what is this $40 installation kit the delivery and install people have mandatory. I already bought new stainless braided no burst hoses? TIA
I always recommend the FACTORY extended warranty. Not the sales center one. Factory gets you much better service when it is needed. Also they are quick to respond. The $40.00 install kit?? I'd shop somewhere else.
I am currently dealing with a older Maytag bravo I cannot get it to go into diagnose mode. It keeps getting stuck with one light on most recently lid. Lock was stuck on if it’s not finished washing two nights ago it stopped in the middle of washer cycle with the tub full, any idea what I’m dealing with
Wonderful that it works. I wish more manufacturers would find ways to fix all of the problems. Because most of that contraption is still in perfect working order. Dumb to not have replaceable parts without buying a new tub assembly or something like that.
OMG!!! This ranks as one of the three hardest things I have ever tried to repair!! My impeller was rusted on. Broke in like 6-10 chunks of varying sizes. Then the tub was also impossible to get out. I literally almost cried. To see how easy it was to you made me wonder why mine was so difficult. So, thanks to your video, I’ve ordered and I am awaiting the part. Soon this will be a fixed and I’ll forget all about the tears!!! You’re funny by the way. 😂😂😂
Exact problem I have, and have switched the suspension rods. But that metal hub replacement is +$60. So what I've done is got a free washer of same likeness but has bad gear case and I'm going to switch tubs or switch the gear cases.
I learned how to fix my washin' machine plus, I seen a picture of Dr. Paul Bearer! Can't ask for anything better. Thanks Ol' Bud for the video, and a big thumbs up to ya and, "I'll be lurking for you"!
I haven't replaced the rods yet but they are on order. The video doesnt show close detail on the worn splines so maybe I missed something. Before finding out about the new part Ben's video is about why wouldn't you just replace it with the orignal plastic or nylon one? I got to the point with mine where I needed to take the clip off but it's wouldn't move for me and I didn't want to break it. At the time I could not find a video about that but maybe my search term was too specific, I'll try again. When my new rods get here I am going to examine them and measure them to compare to the worn ones. I want to know why they wear out and why people don't rebuild them.
Thanks I'll watch it later. On the topic of the new coupler part I think I understand now why the metal one instead of the plastic one. The metal one has a jam fit I would call it. Instead of threading on it gets a compression fit.
@@CheaddakerT.Snodgrass The part with the splits in it is called a collet, many rotary tools that have a nut you tighten down to hold ⅛" shank rotary stones, flies, sanding pads etc etc work that way, think Dremel tool, they have a collet style chuck to hold the different tool bits you can put in them, yes, it works by compressing, the part with the splits in it has a bevel on it's outside and is forced by tightening the nut down into another part that has a matching bevel that squeezes the fingers of the collet inward and thus tightens on whatever is in the center, in the case of a Dremel it's the shank of whatever bit you have in it and in the case of this washer it's the drive shaft for the tub. I just lucked out, or should I say my friend did, I have an entirely different designed Maytag washer that had it's common problem occur, somewhat similar to this design but different enough it has bushings that the shaft rides inside of that get old and wear out along with a rubber boot that acts like a seal that fails allowing water to run down the shaft then fling all around the inside of the cabinet where the transmission, motor and pump are, and it runs out from underneath pretty good, the assembly is held together with a spanner nut that's under the agitator, just two weeks I had to buy the parts and the spanner wrench to fix it, yesterday I went to look at his used washer he just bought from someone that can't make it through the spin cycle because it bangs around all over the place that just happens to be the same exact washer in this video, lucky for him I just bought the spanner wrench needed with this updated part.
Awesome video! Maytag centennial about 3 years old and replaced plastic hub with metal and fixed the shaking and out of balance issue. But immediately after repair, during the wash and rinse cycles, there is a loud clicking sound about every second when agitating. Do you think we should redo the repair? Something to tight or to loose? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Can anyone help me? What causes the hub to get worn out? My wife's been washing and letting the machine dance for three weeks cause it took me sometime to get my suspension rods online, and when I finally changed the rods, it worked for a few loads, then it started dancing at random loads again. Thanks for the video btw.
It was a bi*ch but you just saved me almost $400. Thank you. When I saw your vid I realized my problem. I'm quite handy and fixed it myself for three dollars and one hour. Now my Wife is happy. I made my own tight washers out of auto grade tubing and it works like a champ. I straightened the ends of the rods so I could slide everything off and back on, then bent them back to where they belonged. Thank you so much. I'm not in a position to spend too much money right now. It works like brand new. Your video really helped me. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
@LT4u No, I got the washers and tubing at the hardware store. I walked in with one of the rods and had a hard time finding washers snug enough around the rod so on each rod I put a somewhat snug rubber washer, then about a third of an inch piece of very snug semi-flexible tubing (Like an icemaker feed line), then another somewhat snug rubber washer on top.
Will this work for a Whirlpool WTW48000BQ0? The tub on our washer is so loose that when I have the top open I can take my hand and bang the tub around the sides. There’s no resistance.
I have LG wt1101cw model that does the same thing. Im considering replacing the suspension rods. But if that doesn’t solve it do you think there are parts similar to the things you just showed us available for LG wt1101cw model? Please advise!
Couldn't you just put some tape around the shaft. rough up the surface of the hole on the drum. then set the drum back on the shaft. Put some tape on the bottom of the drum, and pour some jb weld into the hole? that would form new splines for the drum. Just a thought looking at the video. I haven't actually taken mine apart yet to see if it's doable. But mine might just be the rods.
Richard, Richard here. Im replacing a Maytag Bravos washer. I just learned from you that this is a pulsator model not agitator model. Im a dirty blue color worker with seldom clean clothes. Might you give me a recommended agitator model machine that you'd recommend to look at? TIA
GE makes a very good agitator model. It also lets you set your water level. Love this machine instead of the Maytag/Whirlpool models. "Leave the lid up when not in use" they rust. www.homedepot.com/p/GE-4-2-cu-ft-White-Top-Load-Washer-with-Agitator-GTW335ASNWW/308653937
Replaced this part, from Ben's, replaced the springs, 4 rods and machine still bangs during spin cycle. Now what? any suggestions???? Re-cal., etc. done. Now?????
Thank you so much for your answer, i really appreciate it, actually after asking in that comment, i went online, and the part number its compatible with the washer i have. I'm glad i found your video, also you have a great charisma. I just order the part, Will fix it because of you!@@richardkoon5544
If you shot it, it would be awesome. The washer did a dis. Momma on my shi*... Watch on the tube, you know what is mean. Fixed dat thang, sendin spect to the man. Now momma mad cuz not gettin new. LOLOL. I checked out your channel. LIKE.
I have a Bravo model of Maytag and it would spin out of balance. I just changed the suspension rods and that solved the problem for about 5 washes. Now it's out of balance again. I did the re-calibration and the Spin light stayed on. Any advice?
This is awesome! My Maytag is doing the same thing, but it has an agitator and I have already replaced the suspension rods (thanks TH-cam). Does the part also fit Maytag with an agitator and if not, do you know if there is a part that does?
I had the hub and agitator replaced under warranty about 4 or so years ago. The water spins out of the clothes fine, but the washer shakes bad enough to move the washer around. I can replace the suspension rods, but after watching your video, im not 100% sure that will fix it. What are your thoughts?
i have replaced that stupid plastic hub 4 times in a year and a half .... was never putting that the no spin and my washer dancing across the floor where of the same problem. just made my order hope it out of back order soon !
I’m about to install this but I’m curious. Do the splines on the hub kit have to pull double duty with smoothed out tub splines? Or is replacing the actual tub and adding this kit going to give you the longest life?
I believe Ben's appliance sells the piece that has the smoothed out splines on it. But it's upgraded. You can knock it out of the tub with a 15/16 socket and replace it. He has a semi recent TH-cam video on it.
Hey so what if my machine is only getting unbalanced when it has a couple towels or a blanket but never does with a regular load without anything heavy? Does that sound more like the rods or could it be this? Or would this problem cause any load to become off balance and go crazy? Just asking before I order new rods. Thank you for the video! Love the energy!
The new metal part requires a drip of thread locker to keep the threads from loosening up. It's all fine and dandy but it will keep you from swapping out the metal part again. However, 20 years sound sweet than having to change the entire washer every 5 years. So use as much thread locker as you want. Enjoy another 20 years washer afterwards.
So question - what is causing the sound during spin cycle - like a necklace hitting metal but is always different- sometimes quiet but most the time it’s the final rinse where it’s loud - also sounds like change being spun but checked and nothing is stuck inside - is it bearings? Or am I missing something else. I’ve checked inside and under - the belt looks fine. I can’t figure out how to take the next inner piece off after the original piece is moved from inside?? Model # added - wtw4855hw1
Great video. Gonna give this repair a try this weekend. I had bought new springs that I was planning to put on this weekend, but I think I’ll try this new metal hub first.
What if you have a maytag mvw model number that has an agitator and not a pulsator? I think i have this issue. Previously thought the suspension rods were the problem. I believe its this.
Thank you for stating your mistake and then showing what someone else repair then you use that to fixi it. You rock!!!
You, dear Sir, should be added to the repairmans Hall of Fame and given a medal!! Just the right amount of "mad scientist" humor and valuable information to fix a "life-altering" issue in my house. You're my hero! I just finished replacing the damaged part and my grandkids have deemed me "Mimi, the Fixer of all things broken". You Rock!! From the bottom of my laundry pile....I say, thank you!
WoW! I have to say, this is the best compliment I've seen yet. I'm smiling.
Check out my alter ego...Dr. Paul Bearer and let me know what you think, It's rated G
www.youtube.com/@drpaulbearer2/videos
Still want to see a pic of your rockin wife😂lol.
I would like to thank this guy here. My Samsung washer and I have been fighting each other for about 5 years now. True story. I will not let it beat me. When I 1st starting having issues, I replaced the rods. Lasted a little bit then came back. I then replaced the hall/ vibration sensor. It lasted a little bit but came back. I drilled the balance ring out. It lasted a little bit, but came back. I replaced the balance ring, again lasted a bit but came back. This last time I replaced the rods again and the issue was even worse than before. It was just bouncing all over. So after seeing this video, I took apart the older set of rods, removed the foam and replaced it with cut sections of cork tape. The kind that is used on heater boxes in cars. (I’ve had a roll for about 20yrs) I’ve since been able to wash everything from light socks, 8 heavy towels to bed comforters. I have had zero issues. Thanks Again!!!!
But how did you do this? My top loader is having this issue and i replaced the suspension rods.
@@stephencozine1234 the plastic pieces on the rods are 2 piece. separate them with a small pick or flat blade screwdriver. Pull the foam and replace
Are you kidding me? You have saved our lives!!!! You should be crowned. I can't wait to show my husband! Thank you so much!
WoWzers....
Thank you so much!
Curious... are you a halloween fan?
The hub solution was perfect for my washing machine, changed the suspension as well for good measure and now it is better than new, with the metal drive hub. The best is your sense of humor in an otherwise dry subject!
LoL. Thank you so much!
Happy to have this video. Did the metal spring swap first, still didn't help. Replaced the plastic with the new metal replacement part and works great. Thanks for the advice and bens appliances for the part and quick delivery.
I previously changed the rods $140- no joy. I ordered a new spline part form whirlpool and installed $30.- no improvement. Then I installed Bens modification per their directions $50. It's now working perfect. No more jumping/banging- no noise...Saved hundreds of dollars from buying a new washer. YES IT WORKS! Thank you Ben and Richard.
Love it! You are very welcome.
Well... you saved about $50 once you include time 😂
Where do I get this part?
@kolbydewar2201 go to the video in the description, he has the part listed there
@@Phoenix11720 how do i do that? have a direct link? I'm 81 and not up to this new computer world language, but I can make mech repairs.
The biggest problem with the older style direct drive washers was they lasted too long.
27 years . I did my own repairs so it was worth repairing. If I had to pay the service call fees for every little thing it would not have been worth it.
Why would that be a problem?
@@jasonmasterson7846 sarcasm
@@jasonmasterson7846 problem was that you didn’t have to replace it every five years. Because I am a handy guy my last washer lasted over twenty years.
Many people like to sing the praises of those USA washers from the 1980s, 1990s, early 2000s, but they were very rough on clothes.
Fixed our washer based on this video and the Ben's Appliance help. Thank you!
I just fixed my washing machine. This man is correct. Start with OEM suspension rods and replace the tube hub. I just got to add one note. The screws for the tube hub, I had to use the original ones because the new ones did not fit correctly. Good luck. Also if you don't want to buy OEM suspension rods watch Blue Ocean on how to repair them. I did this only to prove that the suspension rods were the problem and then bought the OEM ones.
Lmao 🤣😂 I USUALLY complain about the added drama in repair videos but you, sir, are freaking hilarious!! Love your video! I'll look forward to more! Keep up the awesome work!! Right now I am just debating on messing w my washer or buying a new one... Can't really afford a new one so I really should get dirty & fix the problem... I absolutely LOVE how you showed your viewers that it may not be the suspension rods!! Neither job is fun for a female but makes me feel better about doing this. Thank you!! & YES, you totally rock!!
Love it! Watch me as "Dr. Paul Bearer"
th-cam.com/video/BrFcYOlLlQY/w-d-xo.html
I love comedy.
You are a lifesaver! I popped open this washing machine trying to figure out how to stop it from rocking itself 45 degrees from its original position (as well as spin well enough to actually dry my clothing), and it seems that the inner tub has the same rocking issue as you've shown. Hundreds of dollars for a chance to repair a machine we got for free? No thanks, except thanks to you, Richard, for your hilarious and on-point analysis.
Amazing! Credit to Ben’s video too, but this was the gem that hopefully will fix this dreadful issue. Only there is 1 precaution I’m taking is upon reading the multiple comments reviewing these “metal” hub replacements as problematic. The issue is that this “zinc alloy” isn’t tough enough to withstand the torque and over a short period of time as in a few months or even a few loads ends up breaking. One commenter stated that he used JB Weld Steel Stick on the shaft before installing the metal hub after the first one broke and that this has (although permanent) indeed fixed it finally. I will try that method, since otherwise this washer is ready for the dumpster fire.
that's interesting,...makes me wonder about making the repairs?
THanks for the video Richard! i know that's the problem but when the first part comes and the spanner nut hasn't been threaded... that's a true STRUGGLE LOL we do appreciate the video - keep 'em coming!
Great video. I have replaced suspension rods (first) then this metal part replacement. One of the rods was bent and I wonder if the machine damage the new rod(s) before I replaced the metal drive part shown in this video. I did do calibration. Unsure of what to do now.....first load (jeans) ran fine. Next (small) load was colors but REALLY BAD OUT OF BALANCE situation had me crying again. I am wishing to return to the old technology that lasted for years, easier to fix and not such a mystery. Suggestions? Recheck suspension rods? Maybe open the backside of machine and look for something obvious. Last machine lasted 30 years and easy to fix. This POS is less than 5.......
Metal! Wow, what a concept! If these companies would start making quality products again, these parts would not get worn so quickly. Awesome video by the way! New subscriber now.
Its by design. How can they sell products, if they last forever? Im not bashing you. Im saying, think about it
Planned obsolescence is nothing new. Detroit made cars that way leaving an opening for Japan to kick its ass starting in the 70's.
Ive torn down many of these machines. If it has the rectangle shape gearcase, the tub is not splined. Only the hub is which is a major weakpoint. The square gearcase machines like maytag, do have a splined tub and dont have this type of failure. The metal hub is a temporary fix, as i used them to fix half a dozen machines, most failed in weeks, all by 6 months. I even had a few of the metal ones fail during install, since theres only 1 small metal tab on the inner piece to keep it from spinning while tightening. I now only do that job if replacing the gearcase and hub at the same time or i know i'll be called back in less than a year.
Wow I've been trying to figure out for years why as an appliance repair guy, what was making it go out of balance when the suspension springs where good in literral on a job now and just said what the heck and TH-cam to see if someone had a solution by now. sure enough this washer is doing exactly what you said. Thanks for taking the timeout to show this repair
How do I get that part?
great news, thanks. And thanks for the actual humor! And, thanks for not dubbing in noise (music?)!
thank you for sharing all that knowledge and information with all of us who are trying to save a little bit of money here and there and fix our own stuff
Thanks! Another success story here. Our Maytag now works better than when it was new. You would think the factory would just install the metal part to begin with.
Sir, thank you very much!!!! It makes me very happy that your machine it working much better.
Yeah but then the manufacturer would lose money on their service agreements.
I wish I would have found this video 2 weeks ago. Ive replaced the lock sensor due to no start lock lid, then the suspension rods for "thudding", and ran into the same issues you brought up. Did the reset/recalabrate thing and same thing. I gave up and ordered a new washer and it got delivered yesterday
. Man good info I just subscribed. keep it up! great video.
Man, I'm sorry. Thank you for the compliment!
I have a Maytag washer with a central agitator and dampening rods at four corners. It has been thrashing quite hard with large loads. Another YT video suggested pushing straight down on the agitator firmly and watching to see if it rebounds without bouncing up and down. Bouncing presumably indicates worn suspension rods without having to take the machine apart. I did this and found a lot of bouncing so I decided to replace the suspension rods soon but had to do a large load of laundry before I could find time to do the repair. To my surprise the washer did not go out of balance in the least. Neither did the next load. Repeating the agitator push revealed no bouncing like before. My theory is that the initial push on the agitator may have unstuck one or more suspension rods so they are all performing nearly equally. In all likelihood I will have to do an actual repair but for now it looks like I pushed it off. (Pun intended 😅)
I love puns. Great info. I will check this out further. Thank you.
Enjoyed your vid. I changed my suspension rod but still getting the banging sound. Please post your repair vid on the spline kit. Thanks. Great vid...
Awesome... I am glad you found the fix even if someone else found it first. Kudos to you.
2:51 2:53
And to think I thought I was smart taking the lid lock off the lid and stuffing it into the switch. Thanks for the great info!
Hah ! Good deal.
Ben is really good! When I saw his video on the metal hub, I knew that was the missing link to fix the plague on these units. Good job on the video, and the shout-out to Ben. Cause he was the first to show that gem.
Shouting out to Ben, was the proper thing to do. We've never met, but I enjoy his wisdom.
I watched Ben’s video as well, you can’t imagine how many of these units I have scrapped out and sent to the junk yard. I’ve ordered a few of these kits and will try them out next week. Great video, my friend, you’re a hoot!
My feelings as well. Hate to scrap a good machine.
Thank you for your comment.
Did that kit help you ? I stopped installing the kit because it was still shaking violently
@@crazee6821find any other solution for the shaking?
I want an update!
I just fixed a newer style one and splines were all like new and everything looked ok. The thing had its main nut come loose after 2 of the rods came out of their little cups.. the drum ended up denting all 4 sides of the cab and threw water all over the persons floors.. i got it for free and put her back together with new rods and cab but the thing still wants to shake itself away even with no load. The balance ring is still full of water on top and bottom, basket doesnt move around and inner agitator stays solid with the drum. Only thing i can think of is the actual motor has bent or the drive rod one... one of those direct drive deals with the rod built into the tub and motor bolted directly to the tub..
Thanks for your video, I have a Whirlpool washer that I changed out rods and it still shaked really bad and then watched your video and found out my tub splines were worn out,so I will be ordering that w10324651 hub kit,Thanks again
Thank you sir. I'm about to go through mine. It has progressed from a little banging that smooths out to turn that sunny beach off before it beats a hole through the floor.
...and I see you got 409... I'll make 410
ROFL....
Thanks for your video. Your viewers should also know that the OEM rods can cost as much as $79.99 each! May be best to invest that money on a new washer!
The metal hub you post worked out amazing, but what are the two zip ties that came with the hub for?
Honestly, I have no idea. I guess they are used to tie your crossed fingers hoping it works. Just joking.
@richardkoon5544 either way the metal hub worked like a champ
You have me freaking dialed in watching this washer repair video love the energy.
I need one for my washing machine after i just replaced the rod suspension...where do i go to order and of course yiur video thats show how to replace it..thank you
Sears Parts online.
I’m glad I ran into this video. I have a Samsung activewash washer and it too was banging bad. Samsung said it was the suspension rods and so did pretty much everyone else. I had my suspicion of the agitator area. The banging did some what ease off but it still continued only liter. The machine also kept adding time to the final load at around 16 mins left then it would jump back to 22 min and this is after the rods were changed. I’m going to look into the agitator now. Thank you! If you have any further tips I would be much appreciative. Thanks again.
Yes, welcome to the Mofo-Life of the "Forever Wash" and the "UE" unbalanced code ... My damned Samsung doing the same thing all thru Dec 2023 and Jan 2024. I've replaced suspension rods and vibration sensor. So, I am hoping to find the MAGICAL CURE. This sucks, but I gotta hand to Samsung. I did not have one problem from Aug 2016 until Dec 2023. And, we really use our washer. So, you are not alone. I hope you get it figured out.
had me scared for a minute LOL i literally ordered that metal part from ben LoL thank god waiting on it this Tuesday
I actually seen Ben video first. But yours came up next. After watching his I literally canceled my Amazon order because of his and just ordered Ben’s parts. Then watched yours. I was literally about to cancel my order from Ben’s and turn off your video. Until you said wait there’s more. I finished watching and decided to keep my order. I replaced my center plastic hub thing this morning for the 2nd time in less than 2 years and ordered those springs from Amazon. Because of its shaking operation. But watched Ben’s that got my to cancel. Then you almost got me to cancel Ben’s. 😅 I am so happy you bought his product and it worked. Hopefully I can be just as happy next week.
Hi, where do you buy that piece of metal? I would be very grateful if you could share a purchase link.
www.searspartsdirect.com/product/2209iaobml-0026-250/id-203657p
Hello Richard
I came to your video to tell you that Ben's metal hub does wonders. He was even answering my messages and helping me with some small issue i encountered along the way.
My maytag work again.
great video sir i have a question the plastic pieces clips or whatever they call on the bottom of the basket they all gone can i still do the repair or i have to trow the basket away ???
I think you'll be okay.l
Thank you for sharing helped me a lot with my washer have a great day
this isnt the style or brand im currently repairing, but this is guy is to funny and to the point that i cant drop a sub. good day sir
Richard, do you ever recommend going with a 3 yr, 1 yr, etc factory service plan add on at time of new machine sale. what is this $40 installation kit the delivery and install people have mandatory. I already bought new stainless braided no burst hoses? TIA
I always recommend the FACTORY extended warranty. Not the sales center one. Factory gets you much better service when it is needed. Also they are quick to respond. The $40.00 install kit?? I'd shop somewhere else.
I am currently dealing with a older Maytag bravo I cannot get it to go into diagnose mode. It keeps getting stuck with one light on most recently lid. Lock was stuck on if it’s not finished washing two nights ago it stopped in the middle of washer cycle with the tub full, any idea what I’m dealing with
Thank you for the good info. I ordered that new part and it worked !!!!! You saved me $700
Wonderful that it works. I wish more manufacturers would find ways to fix all of the problems. Because most of that contraption is still in perfect working order. Dumb to not have replaceable parts without buying a new tub assembly or something like that.
Thank you sir! Ordering now.
What pisses me off though is the new shocks are not as good as the old socks.
I have the exact same washer with the exact same problem. Changed the suspension rods but it still bangs occasionally. Man I'm excited to try this fix
Let us all know how much better it is.
Just changed my suspension rods too but it still bangs like crazy even when empty. I think this video explains my problem.
Did y’all buy a new washer
Half of the splines on the shaft are rusted out the plastic piece is fine. Is it worth fixing the spines on the transmission?
I wouldn't. Time to replace the machine. GE toploaders are good.
OMG!!! This ranks as one of the three hardest things I have ever tried to repair!! My impeller was rusted on. Broke in like 6-10 chunks of varying sizes. Then the tub was also impossible to get out. I literally almost cried. To see how easy it was to you made me wonder why mine was so difficult. So, thanks to your video, I’ve ordered and I am awaiting the part. Soon this will be a fixed and I’ll forget all about the tears!!! You’re funny by the way. 😂😂😂
Thank you so much! My sister and I are working on her washer right now!
I have changed a few tub hubs but have not tried the metal ones yet.
Exact problem I have, and have switched the suspension rods. But that metal hub replacement is +$60.
So what I've done is got a free washer of same likeness but has bad gear case and I'm going to switch tubs or switch the gear cases.
I learned how to fix my washin' machine plus, I seen a picture of Dr. Paul Bearer! Can't ask for anything better. Thanks Ol' Bud for the video, and a big thumbs up to ya and, "I'll be lurking for you"!
Nothing better than clean clothes for a funeral...By Golly. Heh heh heh heeeeeh.
So how do you get that center agitator out after pulling the bolt out?
Check this out, it may help.
th-cam.com/video/h2H6Ze4hOCY/w-d-xo.html
so if the inner tub goes up and down it is DEFINITELY not the suspension rods? Most likely not the suspension rods? I just want to take it apart once!
I haven't replaced the rods yet but they are on order. The video doesnt show close detail on the worn splines so maybe I missed something. Before finding out about the new part Ben's video is about why wouldn't you just replace it with the orignal plastic or nylon one? I got to the point with mine where I needed to take the clip off but it's wouldn't move for me and I didn't want to break it. At the time I could not find a video about that but maybe my search term was too specific, I'll try again.
When my new rods get here I am going to examine them and measure them to compare to the worn ones. I want to know why they wear out and why people don't rebuild them.
Check this one out. I hope it helps.
th-cam.com/video/h2H6Ze4hOCY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks I'll watch it later. On the topic of the new coupler part I think I understand now why the metal one instead of the plastic one. The metal one has a jam fit I would call it. Instead of threading on it gets a compression fit.
@@CheaddakerT.Snodgrass
The part with the splits in it is called a collet, many rotary tools that have a nut you tighten down to hold ⅛" shank rotary stones, flies, sanding pads etc etc work that way, think Dremel tool, they have a collet style chuck to hold the different tool bits you can put in them, yes, it works by compressing, the part with the splits in it has a bevel on it's outside and is forced by tightening the nut down into another part that has a matching bevel that squeezes the fingers of the collet inward and thus tightens on whatever is in the center, in the case of a Dremel it's the shank of whatever bit you have in it and in the case of this washer it's the drive shaft for the tub.
I just lucked out, or should I say my friend did, I have an entirely different designed Maytag washer that had it's common problem occur, somewhat similar to this design but different enough it has bushings that the shaft rides inside of that get old and wear out along with a rubber boot that acts like a seal that fails allowing water to run down the shaft then fling all around the inside of the cabinet where the transmission, motor and pump are, and it runs out from underneath pretty good, the assembly is held together with a spanner nut that's under the agitator, just two weeks I had to buy the parts and the spanner wrench to fix it, yesterday I went to look at his used washer he just bought from someone that can't make it through the spin cycle because it bangs around all over the place that just happens to be the same exact washer in this video, lucky for him I just bought the spanner wrench needed with this updated part.
Awesome video! Maytag centennial about 3 years old and replaced plastic hub with metal and fixed the shaking and out of balance issue. But immediately after repair, during the wash and rinse cycles, there is a loud clicking sound about every second when agitating. Do you think we should redo the repair? Something to tight or to loose? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Can anyone help me? What causes the hub to get worn out? My wife's been washing and letting the machine dance for three weeks cause it took me sometime to get my suspension rods online, and when I finally changed the rods, it worked for a few loads, then it started dancing at random loads again. Thanks for the video btw.
Thank you for an honest repair video....................
It was a bi*ch but you just saved me almost $400. Thank you. When I saw your vid I realized my problem. I'm quite handy and fixed it myself for three dollars and one hour. Now my Wife is happy. I made my own tight washers out of auto grade tubing and it works like a champ. I straightened the ends of the rods so I could slide everything off and back on, then bent them back to where they belonged. Thank you so much. I'm not in a position to spend too much money right now. It works like brand new. Your video really helped me. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Happy Wife, Happy Life. Glad my video helped you.
@LT4u Marcone.com
@LT4u No, I got the washers and tubing at the hardware store. I walked in with one of the rods and had a hard time finding washers snug enough around the rod so on each rod I put a somewhat snug rubber washer, then about a third of an inch piece of very snug semi-flexible tubing (Like an icemaker feed line), then another somewhat snug rubber washer on top.
Doc how do we get the DeLorean to 88 miles per hour! Genius!
Will this work for a Whirlpool WTW48000BQ0? The tub on our washer is so loose that when I have the top open I can take my hand and bang the tub around the sides. There’s no resistance.
No, you need a new stem support. WP389140
I have LG wt1101cw model that does the same thing. Im considering replacing the suspension rods. But if that doesn’t solve it do you think there are parts similar to the things you just showed us available for LG wt1101cw model? Please advise!
Usually the rods are the only thing to do on a LG. Try it, many say it solves it.
Other than that, I don't think your machine does.
Couldn't you just put some tape around the shaft. rough up the surface of the hole on the drum. then set the drum back on the shaft. Put some tape on the bottom of the drum, and pour some jb weld into the hole? that would form new splines for the drum. Just a thought looking at the video. I haven't actually taken mine apart yet to see if it's doable. But mine might just be the rods.
You two are life savers!
What is the piece called or do you have a link where I can buy it? I have this same problem
I bought a 3500 washer and dryer set for $200 and this is my biggest problem. Wash 3 towels and a shirt, it goes off balance. You just saved me money
Glad to hear.
Richard, Richard here. Im replacing a Maytag Bravos washer. I just learned from you that this is a pulsator model not agitator model. Im a dirty blue color worker with seldom clean clothes. Might you give me a recommended agitator model machine that you'd recommend to look at? TIA
GE makes a very good agitator model. It also lets you set your water level. Love this machine instead of the Maytag/Whirlpool models.
"Leave the lid up when not in use" they rust.
www.homedepot.com/p/GE-4-2-cu-ft-White-Top-Load-Washer-with-Agitator-GTW335ASNWW/308653937
Replaced this part, from Ben's, replaced the springs, 4 rods and machine still bangs during spin cycle. Now what? any suggestions???? Re-cal., etc. done. Now?????
That happened on another machine. I needed to tighten the hub a bit more so it didn't rock.
Thanks for the video, where can I buy the metal hub part? Thanks, JGS
I have a Maytag washer much like this, but with an agitator, I wonder if it has the same part.
Hello, is that metal spare part standard and will work in other washer? I have that loose problem but on a Maytag washer instead
Maybe, depends on if you have the plastic one with the key in it.
Thank you so much for your answer, i really appreciate it, actually after asking in that comment, i went online, and the part number its compatible with the washer i have. I'm glad i found your video, also you have a great charisma. I just order the part, Will fix it because of you!@@richardkoon5544
So should i get both the suspension rods, and hub?
If the inner tub does NOT rock, then just replaces the rods. 🙂
so is this a direct replacement for W10528947 ?
Yes for me it is.
Fast forward it to what happened 😂😂 this the best DIY on TH-cam
LOL. Love it!! Dang washer.....
If you shot it, it would be awesome. The washer did a dis. Momma on my shi*... Watch on the tube, you know what is mean. Fixed dat thang, sendin spect to the man. Now momma mad cuz not gettin new. LOLOL.
I checked out your channel. LIKE.
I have a Bravo model of Maytag and it would spin out of balance. I just changed the suspension rods and that solved the problem for about 5 washes. Now it's out of balance again. I did the re-calibration and the Spin light stayed on. Any advice?
Did you use the Whirlpool OEM rods?
Would that work for my Maytag washing machine? Is it like one size fits all?
What am I looking for diagnostically, if the tub moves up and down or if it moves up and down and makes that thud?
This is awesome! My Maytag is doing the same thing, but it has an agitator and I have already replaced the suspension rods (thanks TH-cam). Does the part also fit Maytag with an agitator and if not, do you know if there is a part that does?
Sir, Thank you so very much ! You have made my day! To finally get my washer fixed. I appreciate you.😊
I had the hub and agitator replaced under warranty about 4 or so years ago. The water spins out of the clothes fine, but the washer shakes bad enough to move the washer around. I can replace the suspension rods, but after watching your video, im not 100% sure that will fix it. What are your thoughts?
Probably the rods. I'd check them first.
@richardkoon5544 thank you sir.
i have replaced that stupid plastic hub 4 times in a year and a half .... was never putting that the no spin and my washer dancing across the floor where of the same problem. just made my order hope it out of back order soon !
Great video!! Curious though, is the metal replacement part the same with the whirlpool with an agitator??
I’m about to install this but I’m curious. Do the splines on the hub kit have to pull double duty with smoothed out tub splines? Or is replacing the actual tub and adding this kit going to give you the longest life?
I've never changed the tub. The hub kit does cures that.
I believe Ben's appliance sells the piece that has the smoothed out splines on it. But it's upgraded. You can knock it out of the tub with a 15/16 socket and replace it. He has a semi recent TH-cam video on it.
Where do I find how to find this piece for my whirlpool cabrio washer?
parts.sears.com
Hi, I have the same problem but I don't know the part number my washer is Kenmore Series 200, can you tell me the name of the part. Thank you.
What is the full model number of the machine.
110.**********
I'm having trouble getting the centerfuge out
Hey so what if my machine is only getting unbalanced when it has a couple towels or a blanket but never does with a regular load without anything heavy? Does that sound more like the rods or could it be this? Or would this problem cause any load to become off balance and go crazy? Just asking before I order new rods. Thank you for the video! Love the energy!
so, would you say something similar happens with Samsung top load washers? I've replaced the suspension rods twice to the same effect
MMMMM, I don't know!
The new metal part requires a drip of thread locker to keep the threads from loosening up. It's all fine and dandy but it will keep you from swapping out the metal part again. However, 20 years sound sweet than having to change the entire washer every 5 years. So use as much thread locker as you want. Enjoy another 20 years washer afterwards.
Excellent video! Q: Can you still use this cure for a Maytag washer? Thanks!
If you have the same key hub, yes. Model number would be a good way to find out.
@@richardkoon5544 my model number MVWX655DW2- how can I tell its the same key hub? Thank you again.
So question - what is causing the sound during spin cycle - like a necklace hitting metal but is always different- sometimes quiet but most the time it’s the final rinse where it’s loud - also sounds like change being spun but checked and nothing is stuck inside - is it bearings? Or am I missing something else. I’ve checked inside and under - the belt looks fine. I can’t figure out how to take the next inner piece off after the original piece is moved from inside?? Model # added - wtw4855hw1
Btw my model number is wtw4855hw1
I would pull the inner tub out and check. You could take the machine outside and turn it upside down. Be careful!
Great video. Gonna give this repair a try this weekend. I had bought new springs that I was planning to put on this weekend, but I think I’ll try this new metal hub first.
How did the upgrade go??
@@cm467 Unfortunately, didn’t work for me. Had more serious problems that required a new unit.
@@ltellis036 you bought the new springs and the middle hub,and both didn't work?
@@ralph00777 Nope. Didn’t work. I had more serious issues with the motor. I ended up shooting this washer and getting a new one.
I have this washing machine model 110.29133413 and its doing the same thing but I dont know if that part will fit.
This repair does not work on your machine.. I do see a spanner nut, I'd remove the plate and examine it.
What if you have a maytag mvw model number that has an agitator and not a pulsator? I think i have this issue. Previously thought the suspension rods were the problem. I believe its this.
I'm thinking you are right.
Do I need to get wash plate or the hub is enough ?
will this work on a Maytag MVWX655DW1 ? it sure looks like it would
Yes, I believe it will. Do yourself a favor and remove the wash plate before you order the hub.
What about an amana with an agitator? Replaced my suspension rods and it is still banging around