Speed Queen Washer BEARINGS and SEALS replacement DIY The GOOD, The BAD, and the UGLY
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2022
- In this video I install new seals, Bearings, and Hub on my Speed Queen Washing machine.
It is not as easy as it is made out to be, especially if you have hard water. Everything had hardened, and calcified residue making it near impossible to take apart.
There are a few really great videos up on You Tube that I used to get this Job done. Those are linked below and I suggest that you watch those videos.
Alex the Handyman video- great! • SPEED QUEEN WASHER STE...
Loudgsr video --the guy has done hundreds of them. fast but great. • Speed queen SWT811wn30...
Owen Lucas- air wedge video - glad I saw this cause Its very hard to remove the agitator • Speed Queen Washer Agi...
When someone has done this more than once, they know exactly what they are doing. They know the size and shape of every part that they need to remove. If you haven't done this before, be aware that there will be a ton of rock hard soap residue build up on the parts complicating their removal.
I even watched a video that did this as a demonstration on what appeared to be a brand new machine- the parts literally slid right off the spindle. Trust me, that's not happening.
Hopefully this video will give you some insight and help you get through this job successfully.
My washer has been functioning fine with the exception of a small leak in the seal area.
When I attempted to remove the nut that keeps the hub in place over the inner tub, I was surprised to find that the entire spindle and transmission were not locked in place as they were in virtually every other video. As I tried to unscrew the large nut, the entire spindle and transmission were moving. No idea why that is. Maybe my transmission is stripped although The washer is working fine. I cannot hold the agitator in place with a cycle going, so I am not sure why the transmission spins freely, but it made the job way more difficult..
So should you have this issue as well, watch the video to find out what I did to get the bolt off.
If you enjoyed the video, check out some of my other content. Thanks for watching and if you like my content, feel free to subscribe.
Thanks
#speedqueen
Rich - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Nice video, thanks for taking the time to make this video. I've watched several videos to learn how to do this job the easiest way possible with the best tools available. Your video helped me a lot.
Good Ideas From Your Video
1) Leaving the tub installed in the washer while removing & finalizing the bearing job. I think it makes the job easier because the tub is stable when installed in the washer.
2) Lifting the tub from the bottom assembly, instead of turning it around and lifting the bottom assembly from the tub.
3) Using the Rhino air bags and pry tool kit.
Suggestions
1) Use a bearing pulley to remove the plastic center piece & the bearing from the tub.
2) Use the Speed Queen 321P4 Springhook tool to remove the springs from the tools.
3) Remove the center bolt from the tub before removing the inner tub. This way it will be easier to prevent it from spinning.
4) Maybe using an impact drill to remove the center bolt from the tub.
Thanks for taking the time to make such a thorough comment. You're not the first to recommend leaving the outer tub in place to help remove the inner tub. For the life of me I can't conceptualize how that would help. And if you have a deep enough socket to remove the center bolt with an air gun or similar id say that would be the best way. The hub stuck up to much for anything I had.
@@Samlol23_drrich I think this video would help. Try to watch this TH-cam video produced by Alliance Laundry Systems (Speed Queen manufacturer) titled: How to Replace Top Load Seal Kit 766P3A
Perfect example of what a determined man and his tool bag can do. I have a speed queen i am hoping never to have to deal with this. You did great that looked like a nightmare
Thank you. It had some ugly moments…….where either I can get it done or we need a new machine. Thankfully it all worked out. Thanks for watching and for the kind words.
I'm half way through pulling one apart and I salute you good Sir , your video has been a guiding light .
Dude, major 👍👍👍 to you for persisting and getting ‘er done!!
Thanks. I didnt have a choice at that point......it was leaking and I bought the parts! Thanks for the comment
Thanks for posting this video, it was very helpful. I have the TR7 Speed Queen that I bought three years ago. I had to move the washing machine outside while my house was being replumbed and when I was bringing it back inside I slipped going up some stairs and the Speed Queen fell back and hit the ground. Fortunately it still works but there were a few broken parts that need replacement. I figured while I had it apart I'd do a through cleaning and you video helped me in seeing what needs to be done to take it apart. Thank you.
I’m just glad YOU weren’t hurt. Thanks for commenting and for the kind words.
I just did this, those Rhino air wedges are very useful here, not only to pop up the agitator, but also between the inner and outer tub, put (3) in 120 degrees apart, inflate just enough to act as a brake pad to stop drum from spinning as you break torque on center shaft nut. Do not over inflate as you can possibly warp the tub.
On my model speed queen I pulled the nut before unbolting the (4) bolts on the stainless inner tub.
Also FYI 38mm (6pt) deep well vehicle wheel lock nut socket on my Ryobi 1/2 18V battery powered impact wrench worked well on 17 years of accumulated crud under the agitator and on nut.
Someone else mentioned To take the lock nut off before removing the inner tub. I don't think I was able to do that
The white plastic ring that is under the stainless-steel tub in the self-cleaning lint-filter! I've repaired 2 Speed Queen washers with the very same repair that this vid shows. NOT an easy thing to do at all! This man did a fantastic job!
Thank you! Couldn’t find that anywhere. And what do you do about the transmission not locking ? That was the worst part- being unable to spin that nut off. Did I do something wrong?
@@Samlol23_drrich I have no clue as to the reason that transmission was not locking. The 2 Speed Queen washers I did that repair on... the transmission locked. You did an impressive job in-spite of the transmission issue!
@@websurfin9575 thanks. My dad used to say “it broken already so what’s the worst thing that could happen”. When I installed it I made a little wire with a couple of spade connectors and bypassed the lid safety switch so I can watch it run with the lid up. I would bet the transmission is supposed to lock, but it’s working fine cause I watch it agitating. I have tried to stop the agitator by pushing down on the central hub as it’s running but it can’t be stopped by hand. It’s definitely moving the clothes around.
Luckily it’s one and done. Hope to never need to do that again.
Thanks for the kind words and for commenting.
@@Samlol23_drrich Speed Queen washers are worth the trouble to fix.... when they break-down! And a SQ washer breaking down is rare. 🙂
@@Samlol23_drrich My tranny spins both ways fairly easily. By design I think the only thing sort of locking force is the brake pads/brake rotor...which really on most machines isn't enough force to really lock it down enough to use the special hammer tool. My model is an Amana Commercial ALW880QAW circa 2001, which is made of the same parts as a Speed Queen but has an extra bracket and 3 bolts anchoring the wheel bearing to the tub. The video at appliance parts pros website shows the repairman having to prevent the transmission from spinning by using vise grips clamped to a fin on the transmission casing, whereby the wrench would then wedge up against the tranny support bracket and prevent the spinning. There is a little plastic helix under the tranny that moves up and down, depending on which position it's in, perhaps determines whether your tranny locks into what mode, i.e. for agitation vs spin dry. The video I refer to is th-cam.com/video/YhYKRkOVbJc/w-d-xo.html
Simple trick to avoid the unit from spinning when taking the nut off, leave the inner tub in until that nut is loosened. You can use your elbows to hold the inner tub in place as you hammer away.
Thank you. Good idea.
You likely saved me at least an hour, thanks.
Noted! In about a week, I get to do the same thing with my washing machine. Right now, it sounds like an old lawnmower.
True
Mine ssqueals like a hoe!
The older Maytags back before Whirlpool acquisition had these very same problems. I know my1992 Maytag developed all these problems when my machine reached 20 plus years old. Transmission oil leaked out constantly and I think finally a tub seal broke and there was water all over the floor. The fan belts were replaced twice before hand. I was desperate to get a new washer right away so I got the 2018 SPEED QUEEN TR5 SERIES WASHER not realizing that Consumer Reports gave this machine a dismal poor rating in washing performance.
Do you agree with Consumer Reports ? The machine other than the seal which I guess is a big deal it was a slow leak maybe 2 oz of water on the floor and if I couldn't fix it I would have very possibly bought a plastic water containment drip pan for underneath
@@Samlol23_drrich I agree with Consumer Reports most of the time.
Excellent video very well explained, this gave me a real life repair situation dirt and all. Super work.
Thank you !!
Thank you!
You can also fill it up with hot water and then drain and pull hard and the agitator will come off without the use of air bags.
Thank you. Mine was very stuck so that sounds much easier.
very nice video. my machine started shaking while spinning. Now that i watched this video i have better understanding of the machine. Thank you.
Sometimes that happens if the load is not balanced. That seems to always happen if I'm washing one large item like a comforter. Or a big towel and some small stuff. I usually stop the machine and rearrange the items so they are evenly placed. Thanks for watching!
So i grew up with an 05 speed queen aliance like you have there. We have replaced 2 belts but thats it. Still going strong. 3-4 people used it until 2019 when it went down to 1 just my mom. Found one on facebook today same model but from 08 for $100 got it in doing its first wash.
Looked inside of it. Belt and springs all looked good. Not much rust or corotion which is good
Im very happy to of been able to find this pre computer no water saving mechanical dial washer :) almost didnt get it cause seller had some one else interested before me but an extra $15 and my sob story of how bad i wanted it convinced him lol
I’m with you 100%. We bought our house in 2010, so the machine we have was probably manufactured in 2009. I raised the max fill level, and bypassed the lid switch so it runs without closing the lid so I can make sure it’s working properly. Good purchase on your part. If ours ever became unable to be repaired, I would look for a used one. In fact, I just bought a used 15 year old Hoover wind tunnel self propelled vac for parts (on eBay) cause I can no longer get an idler arm for mine. Same deal. Bag, old, works really well and don’t want electronics!
Hope your washer lasts a lifetime! Thanks for commenting.
@@Samlol23_drrich do you have a video on raising the fill level? Would be pretty cool if I can do that to newer washers
@BRWfilms I will link to the video I used. I will edit this post when I do. It was just a matter of backing off a bolt. Okay edit here's the video and I think it's tightening not backing It Off..th-cam.com/video/VpYpILUZqrQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jWbgkcWtKKCKRVnP
@@Samlol23_drrich thanks!
@@BRWfilms no problem. Good luck
Great video. Our machine is 25 years old and the this is the second time we have to replace the seal and bearing. On the previous occasion it was done by an agents and it turned out to be expensive. Depending on the availability of the replacement kit in South Africa I will do it myself this time thanks to your video.
What did the whole kit cost you?
@@skatesneakerlover with the kit and all the extras the Doc used in this video including the air pillow pump up along with the plastic accessories, I spent just over $200. I had to order the center nut remover tool and with shipping, that was just over $20. Everything came from Amazon except the center tool.
Heckuva job man!
Very excellent job. I benefited a lot from this video.
Thanks very much. Really glad it helped. I’m running a wash as I’m typing this! Love that machine. Appreciate the comment.
Thanks for the video..
you are a good man
I’ll take it! Thanks for watching!!
Great video!. Thank you.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video! Now we can all see why the transmission can't leak into the tub. Just a bearing and seals to keep the water from draining out! So, would you say that the majority of the crud was old soap and grime from the clothes? Speed Queen washers are built like a a Battleship! No wonder they run forever!
I’m sure that’s what the dried crud was. Never used any powdered soap either. The reason I did all this was a small water leak from the bearing/seal area. I discovered it a year ago and bought the seal kit that I installed. While I was waiting for it to be delivered, I removed the front panel, and took 100% silicone on a rubber glove and applied a lot of it on the underside of the bottom tub, all around the seal and bearing. I didn’t run the machine for 24 hours and that fixed the leak. For a little more than a year. The bearing and seal kit sat in my basement. Why mess with it if it was not leaking any more? Well a Lear later, the leak returned from the same area, and I made this video after reviewing all the videos that I could find on the subject. It’s still going strong. In fact, I just pulled a load from the washer and put it in the dryer 3 minutes ago! Thanks for commenting!
Good realistic tutorial. Helpful to see how you can run into issues like parts that are stuck, spindles that spin, seals that won't seat, etc. You got it done and saved a ton!
I happened to be staring at my iPad as your comment came through. Thanks for the kind words. It’s been fine since then. No leaks or issues. What a relief. I wasn’t sure it was going to work out as I was fighting with it, but as they say - it was already broken. So either I fix it, or it’s still broken. And luckily it all worked out. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
@@Samlol23_drrich I appreciate anyone who is good working with their hands. I've been doing it from very early on. I can fix just about anything. Even now that I have money, I still enjoy doing most things myself. I take my time and find it relaxing. I picked up on your comment that you didn't really enjoy the process (nightmare) but I hope you at least took some satisfaction in a job well done- by your own hands. 37:17.
Recently my wife wanted a new Kitchen and Bath. That was a learning curve but despite some challenges, it ultimately came out amazing. As you said, it was already broken (30 years old!)
On a side note Doc, I agree with the genetics factor regarding cavities. I don't do fluoride and haven't had any cavities in years. I value my sleep more and don't want to calcify my pineal gland. Also, if you read the literature, after a treatment you are suppose to let it sit for 30 minutes or so in order to do anything to enamel. People are funny- they brush and ingest some fluoride, the immediately rinse it off. That will do nothing- good anyway IMHO.
@@UTAH100 although sometimes stressful, I absolutely do enjoy fixing things. Not sure which comment led you to believe otherwise. There’s not too many things I won’t attempt. I feel like my office is the equivalent of a few homes. With six dental chairs something is always breaking, although financially for the small stuff I’m better off calling someone due to so many specialized parts. The problem is when larger and more expensive items break down after 8 or so years the guys who do the repairs go into full sales mode. And the repairs run into the thousands. That’s when I do the repairs myself with the help of eBay. They wanted to sell me a new 5k compressor- and it was just a start box I needed (a couple of capacitors and a relay). They wanted to sell me a new 50k panoramic X-ray machine and I wound up re-wiring an abused connection. I recently remodeled a downstairs bathroom. Wish I would have taken better video. It came out great. I ripped out everything and built wanescoting, put down new subfloor and ceramic tile, There is so much great info on You Tube which has allowed me to service my AC, Heat, Refrigerator, you name it. Next time around I would be a plumber or electrician. No complaints about dentistry as a profession, but it’s the other BS that ruins my day. Someone who will pay a contractor .60k to redo their bathroom won’t want to pay $10 the insurance doesn’t cover. I blame the ADA for that. Insurance companies spent millions and years pretending it benefits patients to go to “their” in network people. The only ones that win are the insurance companies. They pay our less, while limiting patient access. Oh well. PS I don’t touch the fluoride thing with a ten foot stick. I’m all for it, and give it to my kids. Some people are anti fluoride. That’s fine. To each his or her own.
@@UTAH100 my best diy accomplishment is adding a zone to my four zone hydronic boiler and heating my garage. I did that pre you tube. Did a video after the fact. But that really added another usable 500 square feet to our living space.
@@UTAH100 ps did you get your washer yet? Good job with the kitchen and bath remodel.
nice job
Thank you. Fortunately its been fine so I guess its fixed.
@@Samlol23_drrich that's good they could be a pain
Wow. Good job.
Thanks. I’m just glad I didn’t need a new washer. I really like the Speed Queen. It cleans very well and gets done fast. Plus large capacity and it’s mechanical. Appreciate the comment.
I am having bad problem with my Speed Queen TR7. It is making grease spots on the clothes and nothing seems to work. I am trying to work out something with the dealer and Speed Queen to trade it in as a lemon. Almost 6 years left on Warranty. Fingers crossed.
Did you have this staining problem too?
@@Scott-jf1nh never. Is the machine brand new? It doesn’t sound like it. If I were you I would buy like 4 gallons of bleach and take a white t shirt and run the shirt in a small load with a lot of bleach. At some point if there were grease it would dissipate and stop getting on the clothes. I’ve never heard of anything like that. Good luck. Edit. Or maybe take a bunch of towels you don’t care about and fill the machine with micro fiber towel wax cleaner and water. And run them a few times in that stuff. I bought that stuff from the chemical guys to clean towels after I detail my car. Works well. Ammo NYC has similar microfiber cleaners. At some point whatever is causing the issue will be gone.
Had a Amanda washer like this one lasted 20 plus years
I prefer the speed Queen solid tub washer
That white grille thing is some sort of lint/hair trap to avoid debris from working itself into the sealing surfaces of the central hub part. Also, I saw a video on an appliance parts pros website that shows the repair guy preventing the hub from spinning while hammering on that special wrench by taking a pair of large vise grips and clamping it onto one of the thicker albeit aluminum "fins" of the transmission outer casing down under the tub, and that way the handle of the vise grips would anchor or wedge or stop up against one of the transmission mounting support brackets. That special wrench didn't work for me because the nut was so stuck, so I ended up using an air impact wrench with a gigantic socket that fit the nut. But it wouldn't turn because the shaft was so rusted so I used a wire brush attachment for my portable 4 inch grinder first. I also couldn't get the bearing assembly off the transmission so I had to use a metal 3 pronged gear puller and an air impact socket wrench to get enough force to pry the old bearing off the transmission shaft. I then couldn't get the new bearing or nut on so again I had to lightly brush the rust off the shaft of the transmission with the grinder again. I was even using it in a vertical fashion to get in between the vertically oriented splines on the shaft. The entire job was way harder than I was expecting and there was rust everywhere. Not to mention how difficult it was to find a hub and seal kit for my particular model. I think next time it needs a new bearing the machine is going to the recycle center.
holy crap. Thats crazy. I wish i would have seen the video of someone using vice grips to prevent the transmission from spinning. all three videos I saw had locked transmissions that didnt move counter clockwise. Thanks for commenting. it was interesting to read
I’m seeing oily stuff in the under my washer and wondering if the transmission is leaking. This video really helps me to know what I’m getting into if I have to replace it. I’m willing to spend a few hundred in parts as these washers are around $900 to replace. Thanks for showing the problems that other videos don’t show. Nice work!
I hate to tell you this, but these washers are now about 2k replace for this same exact one. I just priced a set and it was almost 4K. Yep...me too! I'll spend a few hundred to get mine working again as well.
Sorry I didn’t see your comment until today . Did you ever decide to give it a go? I’m hoping the seal repair gives me another 10 plus years. I really like the washer. And thank you for taking the time to write a nice comment.
No. Haven’t done it yet. It’s still running strong.
@@brotherbax4083 I wouldn’t do anything until I had to……..when my machine started to leak I got a $5 tube of silicone , got under the machine and put it on the underside of what I now know is the seal. I gave it 24 hours to cure before doing a load and that lasted a year. When you think about it, that’s really all this job was. There was nothing wrong with the bearings, but if you pull it off to clean the old sealant off, might as well replace it. All the rest was just getting to the seal, and scraping it off, cleaning the outer tub, and re-water sealing with really strong 3m urethane. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you so much!!!
Glad it helped In some way!
Also was your washer leaking or bearing i need just a bearing but not sure this kit comes with it
Great.... job man
Thanks!
Hey Excellent video tutorial.
What model Speed Queen top load washer?
What was purpose of using lock tight on the outer outside of the aluminum plate ?
Excellent video
See 31:20 for Loctite explanation.
It bonds the metal plate to the bearing. It's extremely important. Heres the loctite. Its made for just this type of application to glue 2 metal cylindrical parts together www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6800.html. I have model AWN432SP111TW01. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Remove center nut before inner drum. Easier to hold. Flip outer drum upside down to put weldiment back on
You're the second person that said this and I appreciate it. I really didn't think its possible take off the nut without removing the outer basket because I don't think I would be able to get to it. Unfortunately I can't really picture it now but thank you should this thing ever leak again I will see what I can do with your suggestion
Big job indeed, getting the big nut off the spindle looked very difficult having to hold rotation from underneith with water pump pliers with left hand while swinging a hammer inside the drum with right hand to bang on the nut removal tool from the kit. I'm wondering if a large long socket could be used to remove the nut with an impact wrench, or is the spindle to tall for a long socket? Could use 1/2" or 3/4" drive socket with drive reducer adapter(s) to get back to 3/8" drive impact wrench you used? Any thoughts?
If you can find a deep enough socket, what you suggested would work brilliantly. I watched every video I could find and nobody had the same issue with the spindle and transmission spinning. One commenter suggested my brakes were bad and not holding which was why I had that problem. I've since replaced the brakes after reading that comment. So it's quite possible if you try this repair you won't have the issue I had. Others recommended leaving the inner tub in place when removing the bolt but I can't visualize how that would make any difference.
At any rate, if you have a deep enough impact which would surely be a specialty item (I have a lot of tools and drivers and didn't have anything deep enough) it would definitely remove the bolt in 3 seconds. No question.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great tutorial. Well done. By the way, how long have you had this washer before it started to leak and were you using liquid or powdered detergents ? Thanks.
Thank you. We probably had the washer and dryer 8 or 9 years before it started to leak. I bought the kit to do the bearings and seal and then decided to try some silicone on the tub bottom. That actually stopped the leak for over a year and the repair kit sat in my basement.
We have very hard well water, even with a softener which adds salt. And only use liquid soap. Thanks for commenting.
Great video. I have the same setup and change out all the seals and bearing but right now if I don't put grease on the brakes it chews up the belt. I am trying to figure out what did I do wrong because as I said it's chewing up the belt so I put grease on the brakes in order to delay the belt from wearing out
Are you sure its routed correctly? I bought a belt to replace my existing one when I did the seals This summer but I forgot to put it on So it's still sitting in my basement But that's the original Belt it's about 11 years old
And we do 10 to 15 full loads a week
Maybe it's not balanced properly
@@Samlol23_drrich it is routed correct. The brakes seema to be causing unnecessary resistance when not needed causing the belt to prematurely fall.
@@bobdeengineer7396 wow. Been like that since new? Just curious
You always have to see the positive side of things, great effort to repair and maintain those machines; but you get a washing machine for many more years of use.
No complaints from me. I'm thrilled at the end of the day the machine was fixable and if I ever had to do that again it would be way easier. Thanks for the positive comment
Great job...did you notice the inside side wall stains? Tale sign of a seal leak
Not on the inside stainless basket. Did you see it in the video? If so can you point to a timestamp? Its interesting to me. Thanks
@@Samlol23_drrich 18:48 look at the inside of the cabinet. You will see a stain all the way around the cabinet just below the bottom of the outer basket.
@@rolandvz71 thanks very much for taking the time to point that out and time stamp it for me. I absolutely see what you are talking about. I wonder why that would be a sign of a seal leak. I just assumed it was dirt but I guess not. Any idea why that happens with a seal leak? I’m curious. Thanks again.
Could you use a large deep socket and an impact gun? I have 3/4 inch large air impact sockets I bet that is what service guys use.
How old is your Speed Queen? I bought mine in 2019 and hope l don’t have to do this repair within the first 15 years of usage!!!
How much side to side movement is normal on the agitator shaft and is that that movement in the hub or the transmission?
This is amazing work. I am watching this because we have a newer Speed Queen. I was trying to clean out the edges of the tub and a Clorox wipe fell between the inner and outer tub. Question for you: do I need to take this thing apart and try and fish that out? I am assuming so but I just thought I would ask your opinion.
Thank you. I would try my hardest to get it out without taking the tubs apart. The last thing you want is for it to get stuck in the pump. If you take the top off and unsnap the white plate that covers both tubs (it unsnaps see 4:40 you should be able to see between the tubs. I took the inner tub out with it still attached but you can pull that off when you take the top off of the machine and you should easily be able to get the wipe.
@@Samlol23_drrich That makes a lot of sense. A huge thank you for explaining that. Now that I think about it, the wipe probably isn't in between the inner and outer tub. Because there is a seal on that white plate, it probably just stuck right there. That is a relief, but I still am determined to get it out just in case. I tip my hat to you for sharing your knowledge!
@@jacobl777 my pleasure! Thanks for the nice comments.
Its a crazy hard job...good work The Company says it can be done in 1.5 hrs....not even close...lol
Thanks so much. It looked so much easier when other people were doing it. Now I know why plumbers and electricians in training have apprenticeships. After doing it once it would be way easier the second time! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Wow. I would be cussing and throwing tools around
@hanksome1677 oh, I was. It was infuriating!!! That's the magic of editing.
Thanks for commenting.
The sealant and loctite and the paper applied to clean that part and the soap do they come out with the sealant and bearing when buying them or you buy them separately
They all came in the kit I ordered. It had everything including the sealant- but I think you now need to buy that separately.
Hey Doc! All my repair items for the bearings and seals officially showed up today. I'm curious to see how you got (at the 15:26 mark), all this plastic stuff (plastic shroud/part number 39371 Washer Filter Lint) clean after you took it out. I'm afraid to take my pressure washer to it as it is plastic. You had several items that were plastic you had to get "de-gunked". Did you take a scrub brush to it? Also, did you find anything to help with the mineral and detergent buildup? I just had my drains blown out today and those were disgusting to say the least. My drain guy said a lot of the liquid laundry detergents have glycerin in them and this causes serious build up in the drains. BTW- I just found the 39371 part number online through Alliance and it's actually reasonably priced at just under $5 (this is before shipping), Appliance Parts 365 for $4 before shipping just in case you ever have to pull this machine apart in case you break that plastic piece.
I just ran that plastic thing under hot water. It was hardened soap so it dissolved right off. I didn’t take a power washer to anything. Every part cleaned up easily. I took both the inner and outer tub outside and just used a hose with a sponge. Good luck. The sealant application is the hardest part. Watch a lot of videos. There is one that is shot in portrait mode by a guy in England or Australia that is great. If I find it I’ll edit this post and link it here. Edit. This one. th-cam.com/video/e5vd18GWVWU/w-d-xo.html
@@Samlol23_drrich Will do! Thanks Doc! I was going to possibly also use my 7 in 1 tool for trying to get that sealant off. I have acetone as well as alcohol here to get everything off.
@@amiedavis5257 I think the only thing you will need is a flat razor blade, and some alcohol prior to laying down the new sealant to make sure there is no grease or oil remaining on the surface. Good luck
@@Samlol23_drrich Doc, did you use a gear puller to get that metal hub off? How did you get that hub off? We have the damn thing mostly pulled apart but that metal hub is just stuck.
@@amiedavis5257 I didn’t have to use one, but yes, you can get a set of three different size gear pullers/fan blade pullers fairly inexpensively. They are good to have. You can probably use an air wedge also if you have one.
I'm watching this at 2AM. I have the same machine. Mine is leaking water out the bottom so I am 99% sure it is either the drain pump (plastic, naturally) or else the drain hose (this one was a complete pain to source and took damn near a month). I'm looking at exactly what's in there so I can be prepared as to what I need to do. I got an OEM drain pump from Amazon for $14 with shipping. Where did you get your replacement parts? I wish you were my neighbor. Anytime something is broken I want to learn how to fix it. ALSO: How much was the tool to take off the nut to the transmission? Do you have links for the bladders to stabilize and remove? What was the tool called you used to remove and reconnect the springs and is there a link to that?
The tool to take off the springs is called a motorcycle exhaust hook. The pump up things are called air wedges or air shims, the bolt removal tool is hereparts.alliancelaundry.com/i-790271-speed-queen-306p4-washer-tool-hex-wrench.html?Google&AL-306P4-02&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjMnmmJL6_gIVyiKzAB2iKQsHEAQYBCABEgLDIvD_BwE
@@Samlol23_drrich I found another one of your videos that showed what I needed 😀. Amazon should have it to me in a day or two. I'm going to order the other tool from Alliance. Thanks again Doc!
@amiedavis5257 what is the issue with your machine?
@@Samlol23_drrich Doc, my machine is leaking water like a sieve. I took the front part off and it doesn't feel like it's coming from the drain pump, but I'm not sure if this ever does leak water. You'd know better than me, but can you get stuff like hair in the drain pump causing a blockage not allowing the machine to drain? I also ordered a drain hose and it took damn near a month to get that from Appliance Factory Warehouse. I'm going to try and go through the top of the washer to change out the drain hose. I would like to get those inflatable "air wedges" you have because when we sell our house there is no way in hell I am leaving these machines behind. To replace these machines now it's 4K. I want to be able to get the drum completely stabilized so the drum doesn't rock around and break a spring or do damage to the frame where the springs hook to. Thanks again Doc!
@@Samlol23_drrich I get the springs off with an old phone charging cord that I cut on end off. Just hook the spring in the loop & pull it off or on. This idea came off another utube video for drain pump replacement & it works well for me.
Que genio!
yo soy estúpido y tengo suerte pero muchas gracias
@@Samlol23_drrich “Thank you, you’re a legend”.
What is the kit you used? Do you have to replace the whole transmission for a bearing?
It has nothing to do with the transmission. Yes, I had a slow leak from under the machine. It turned out it was the seal. The seal is just some 3m polyurethane that goes around a rubber and steel bearing that sits on the bottom of the washer tub. But the inner tub not the outer tub. You can buy a specific seal and bearing kit for your machine. For mine, it says which kit at the beginning of the video I think. You can not change the bearing without replacing the seal. 25:20 you can see the lower half of the bearing and seal 30:13 is the upper half of the seal that’s pushed into the urethane. Thanks for watching.
@Samlol23_drrich I have the same machine and it's a bearing that's bad your video is only one I found of same machine in detail of kind of dismantling sorry I didn't watch all of it I should have but can't seem to find only the bearing kit for it so I'm so lost lol I saved this video for when we do find it to know how to change this seal and make sure to have most of the right tools I appreciate your feedback
Be careful when using pullers, I had a hub that refused to come off, even with puller 16 years of bad city water basically "ate up" the aluminum hub and puller easily broke through the hub, I eventually wound up having to cut the hub into 4 pieces and chiseling the center part of the hub from the shaft.
I knew this but in my zeal to get it apart I forgot to put a socket over the end of the transmission shaft and center shaft of the puller so it wouldn't "mushroom over" the starting threads on the end of the shaft, now I have to run a tap through the end of the shaft so I can get the agitator hub lock down bolt back into the shaft. So use a puller type with a self centering pilot bushing, or invert a socket over the end of the shaft to reduce possibility of mushrooming the starting threads.
Don't know why I didn't see this until today but good advice. That must have been a big tap for those threads.
I got that model for about 15 years. My family has given it lots of hard use. It's been a champ. How many years before this repair was needed?
15 years and one month! But seriously probably 12 years and we use it quite a bit. It's been fine since the repair. Thanks for watching and for commenting. If I got enough Subs I can quit my day job
@@Samlol23_drrich Well it's just me and my wife now. But we still use it at least once a day. Hopefully I won't have to do that anytime soon.
why not hold it at bottom and use a Big impact with like a spindle nut socket for a car...you overcome the inertia for it to spin and rattle it off
That would have probably worked If I had a socket deep enough for the spindle. There's a good chance I do. I just didn't think of that. Thanks for commenting
@@Samlol23_drrich what age was this machine? my mschine doesnt have a transmission like yours.. newer model im guessing..
Can you please tell me why your doing this? What was the problem? I have the same machine and in spin it’s starting to make noise and gets louder like a rubbing or shaft is bent and getting a small wobble….any ideas? Regards, Tony. Ps I don’t see anything bent..
There was water leaking from underneath the washer. I took off the front panel And saw that it was leaking from the bearing/ seal area. It doesn't sound like that's your issue. I would check the balance and springs first. Maybe run a small load with no clothes at all and see if it's still making the noise. And run it with the front panel off so you can watch. If you are comfortable with electricity, bypass the top latch switch like i did so you can watch it run.
Hey Doc, since my washer is identical to yours and before this upcoming fall just so I can make sure nothing else falls the hell apart on my washer (especially during the winter), did you purchase the 766P3A kit to do all of this? I know you also got the black sealant stuff with it too. Thanks again! I was hoping to send you a 10 second video of my washer to see if the noise it's making is the bearings. I sent the video to Alex the Handyman, but I don't know if he'll respond. Thanks.
Post it here and post a link. It’s probably not the bearings.I would grease between the washers under the brakes. See my other videos.
@@Samlol23_drrich let me know if the link doesn't work. I'm still getting leaking from somewhere, this is why I was wondering if it could be the bearings
@amiedavis5257 I don't see any link but didn't you say there was no leak during the cycle but only leaking when it was pumping out the tub? If that's the case it's not the bearings. A bearing leak will leak with any water in the tub. Thats what I had here.
@@Samlol23_drrich Hi Doc...I have sent a link 4 times and even manually typed in the link and TH-cam deleted it. I have water going all over the place. I got the new drain pump and the new washer drain hose replaced and the noise is unbearable and water's leaking like a sieve. My laundry room is literally flooded. I'm on Amazon now ordering a bunch of stuff for this washer ( I pause the video, look at what you're using and find it on Amazon). Based upon the goo you got out of your washer, After I get mine ripped apart, I will take mine outside just to clean it up and probably put it back together as well. My washer's in my basement and lighting isn't great. The only thing GOOD about doing this job is when it's done, the washer works great. Aside from that, it's all BAD and UGLY. I'll probably boost the views on this video 1000 just because I'll be watching it, scrolling back all while trying to fix Frau Helga (yes, we named our washing machine). I suspect that extra piece at 15:34 prevents things like socks and other small things that go in the washer from going into the pump and causing clogs. I've seen other videos of people pulling that kind of stuff out of their washers and aside from a little lint and hair, nothing seems to get into my drain. I'll keep you posted.
@@amiedavis5257 that’s crazy. It’s leaking more now than before? Yes I got that kit and it came with the sealant. The new kit doesn’t. I didn’t buy it from Amazon. I bought it from a dedicated laundry machine parts company. Don’t recall which one. I wouldn’t replace the seal unless you are sure that is your problem.
I was under the impression Speed queens were bullet proof! Supposed to last decades with no problems........
So was I. The bulletproof part I guess is the fact that it’s all mechanical. No idea why it started to leak but it did. My guess is overfilling the machine and unbalanced load caused the seal to develop the leak. Oh well. It’s been fine since.
How old was this machine at the time of this fix? Thinking of buying an SQ myself.
Around 12 years. I would absolutely buy another if this were to break. We use it at least once a day, seven days a week if not more. There was a small leak which is why I needed to do this job. The bearings were fine, but it’s like replacing the water pump when you do a head gasket. If you have to take it all apart anyway, replace the cheap part while it’s opened. Good luck. The less electronics in these the better imo.
This may be a 'duh' question, but what were the symptoms of your SQ problems that led you to the repairs needed? We have a SQ that has rather suddenly started making a rattling/ratcheting type noise during agitation both of wash and rinse cycles.
No such thing as a "duh" question because there can be a few reasons to do this. In my case I had a water leak under the machine. I took the front panel off and it seemed to be rignt at the seal. I globbed on silicone and waited 24 hours before using the machine. That worked for a year. Then it started to leak water again so I did this job. It can also be needed with no leak but the bearings are shot and you have grinding noise as the machine agitates. It's such a pain I would suggest any symptoms like those above get new bearings and seal kit, buy the recommended sealant and do the whole job. Thanks for the comment
Oh but it can also be the two washers above the brake assembly rubbing together. I actually made a video with the noise a few years ago and I got a lot of guesses I knew were wrong- like it's the pump- until some guy (or gal) who clearly knew their stuff told me what it was and how to fix it. I'll find and link the video here. (I'll edit this post) be sure to read the pinned comment- it's helped a lot of people. Okay edit. The vid is here. th-cam.com/video/1mm-7liFE6o/w-d-xo.html
@@Samlol23_drrich Thank you for both of your follow-ups to my inquiry. As a former (well, you always are sort-of) teacher, I appreciated your "no such thing as a 'duh' question' reply, too !
hold the transmission from spinning with vice grips, look for the square block on the transmission it is like one inch square clamp on to that to hold the transmission from spinning...
Thanks for the tip. I knew there must be a trick…….
So if you don't put the sealant it will leak or it not necessarily but it might ?
You MUST use that. It’s not regular thread sealant. It actually glues the two halves of the metal bearing together. I’ll try to look and find exactly what it is and edit this post. Edit. Here it is. It’s very strong and made specifically for slip fitted cylindrical metal. It also cures without oxygen. next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/central-pdp.html/loctite-680/BP000000153464.html
So Sam; Was the effort justified? Looks like several hours of work plus part and tool costs. In retrospect would you recommend repair over washer replacement?
100 percent worth the effort. Any time you take something apart that you're not familiar with there is a learning curve. That is really why I made the video. The only extra tools I had to buy were the inflatable wedges and the flat metal piece to unscrew the bolt that wouldn't come out. So I think at the end of the day it was about $200 All In. As long as you can get that bolt of its doable. Thanks for watching
Well done. Are you a music man? I see what looks like a trumpet case and trombone? case.
Thank you! Those are my kids' band instruments. One of them plays my old Sax that I had overhauled.....( I still suck)- and my other guy plays the trombone. Their "real" instruments are in the other room- Piano and Guitar.....those are hopefully for a lifetime. Sax and Tbone, not so much. Thanks for commenting
Doc, I've looked all over the internet and I've found drain hose replacements, but not for speed queen. Is there a way to replace the drain hose without taking this whole machine apart?
What makes you think that your drain hose is leaking? If you take the front panel off you can get to everything quite easily. Did you find a crack or split in the rubber hose? Let me look and see if I can find a diagram and I will come back and edit this answer
Edit type "drain hose" in the search area here www.partsking.com/SRCH.html
@@Samlol23_drrich As soon as the washer drains, water goes all over the floor. It holds water fine so it has to be either the drain hose or the drain pump. No water leaks from the drain pump so by process of elimination it's got to be the drain hose. Also, the water leaks out of the washer's left side and this is where the hose is. I watched another TH-camrs video on changing the belt, I found one on Amazon for $10 with shipping so I ordered one of those just in case. Also, the hose I'm referring to is the one that is the drain and not the rubber hoses that connect to the drain pump. The drain hose is PVC or PVA.
@@amiedavis5257 well look at approx 22:14 on in my video. There are only 2 hoses. The short black one from the tub to the pump and the black rubber that transitions to white corrugated long hose that goes up and out to your drain. It’s one of those or a loose hose clamp. I would open the machine front and carefully run a small water only load and see where it’s leaking from. My money is on the long hose or the pump. Don’t touch anything but with the front panel off you should find the issue quickly.
@@amiedavis5257 here is the part I’m talking about parts.alliancelaundry.com/i-7456313-speed-queen-39893-washer-hose-drain-dom-60hz-high-flex.html
@@amiedavis5257 here is the other hoseparts.alliancelaundry.com/i-787462-speed-queen-38351-washer-hose-tub-to-pump-ddp.html
My Speed Queen is 5 yrs old and washes but sounds like it hurt Hound Dog. Noisier on rinse cycle. Bearings? Where to get parts. Two repair guys turned down the Job,
So I would suggest watching this video of mine and reading all the responses of the pinned comment. I had a huge noise issue also. Video doesn't do it justice. I posted asking for help. One person absolutely knew and he was right. After reading the pinned comment and responses go to the video description where i have a link to me fixing it easily. Hope that helps. Start here.
th-cam.com/video/1mm-7liFE6o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wwaHSyrHVvJioJfO
How do you get that left back water pump support clamp back on? Lol
Those metal clips? I think I did the back one first. They just snap into position if the pump is in exactly the right place. Good luck.
Which machine do you have, and how old is it.? I have been told using to much soap is bad on any washing machine.
I have the awn542sp111tw01 top loader. It’s around 12 years old and I never thought I used too much soap, but apparently I have been. We have very hard water, and have a water softener- and still it’s hard to get a sudsy wash. Since I saw that mess in the machine and changed the seal and bearings, I use much less soap now. I doubt my leak was due to too much soap, but you never know. Use the machine between once and twice every day and it’s still going strong. Love that it’s mechanical and not electronic in any way. Thanks for commenting.
@@Samlol23_drrich thanks,going to buy a SQ just haven’t decided on a tc5 or a tr7
@@stevemoore9951 good luck. You probably can’t go wrong with either but if it were me, I would go with the one with the least electronics. Circuit boards go, any nearby lightning strike, generator power etc. good luck. Do a lot of research !
@@Samlol23_drrich been doing a lot of research kind of learning towards the TC5003WN
No matter the Washer type ask the Store that the washer is being bought at if they also sell Appliance surge protector's there just big Enough to cover the outlet some have a screw post in the Center of the protector to hold in place on the Outlet I use One for our Washer for the Microwave & Toaster.. They're definitely worth the small cost you pay for them if you can't find them a Heavy Duty powerstrip for power tools like from Home Depot or Lowe's should Work..
Hmm seems like the plastic shroud works like a lint filter? I could be wrong
It was some sort of filter. Completely submerged in water though. Since it was soft plastic and extended out past the metal, it made it hard to get the metal hub off cause I couldn't get a grip on it.
Remove the nut before you remove the drum so you have something to hold on to.
Wouldn't the whole thing spin anyway? I think my issue was that my brakes were shot
Wow what a PITA. Bearing kit is over $300. Think I'll buy a new machine before I go through that hassle as our is 10 years old.
It wasn’t the money. I love that machine. No electronics, it’s all mechanical and the new ones aren’t nearly as good. I don’t think I spent $300 for the parts, but it might have been close when adding in the sealant and tool to remove the bolt. Can only wonder what it would have cost to have a tech do the job. Probably mid $600s but that’s a guess. Thanks for commenting.
My parents Speed Queen from 2006 just went out the other day :(. Usually I like tackling these DIY tasks for them, but yeah, no, this is too much for me, even if I find cheaper parts. Told them to get rid of it and get the cheapest, barebones $450 'Amana' unit out there, as they seem to get even worse the fancier you go. Disappointing as people claimed Speed Queens are designed to hold up 25+ years no problem.
@@mbz3218 Is it leaking? Because that's the only reason I did this repair. I bought the parts about a year and a 1/2 ago While I was waiting for them to arrive I put silicone around the bottom seal And that held for about a year to a year and a 1/2
Yep, this case looks like the use of liquid detergent they have wax and the wax never flush out from your washer internal parts cousing corrosion on the aluminum hubs and mold, musty odor..best detergent for washer powder oxy clean have deferent detergents and they flush out perfect don't leave residues, depends on the load no more of one scoop..
I tell you what- I use much much less soap now.. the washer never smelled and nothing was ever Rusty just a slow leak but thanks for the info
Ok, potential inductee to the SQ society, but -- doesn't the warranty cover this? If it's a normal use-maintenance item that would change my thinking.
My two cents;.buy one. Absolutely great machine. Mine was over 10 years old at the time of this issue and the warranty had expired.
My machine gets heavy heavy use at least two loads a day average every single day of the week. Yes, the seal leaked after 10 years and I could have easily called somebody but to be honest I enjoy the challenge with all the information that's out there these days. Good luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask
My wife is a woke feminist and does not need no man, so I let her do this job. After 6 days she was done and we had a brand new washer, I found the delivery receipt in the soap cabinet.
Sorry. I couldn’t stop laughing. Thanks!
Hahaha😂
Unlikely but funny
Woke feminists don’t washer repair
@justinnimmo9450 why would this comment be shadow banned? If you ever see 3 comments and one is missing you go to most recent and back up. It will be there. Doesn't work for videos with lots of comments though. Too time consuming.
I'm not a handyman not much of a guy. That's why I like to leave it to those who know the repairmen. Exactly why I purchase warrants. I don't need the extra stress.
Did a good job could have been easier though there is definitely a proper order in taking them apart so everything doesn't spin
I did it in the exact order of every pro's video I could find . Somebody told me the brakes were worn and that's why it wasn't locking so I changed the brakes. I don't know if they were right or wrong but that seemed to make sense. Thank you for commenting
ITS A LINT FILTER
THANK YOU! but what good is it doing under water on top of the spindle? It’s not in a position to filter anything. I could see if it was over a water pump inlet, or hose area, but it’s just sitting on top of that aluminum piece.
@@Samlol23_drrich the agitator creates water flow. as the water passes through it collects lint then when it spins it flings the lint off and down the drain
@@dougwright5014 thanks very much. You have no idea how helpful your comment and this response are. I use about half of the amount of soap than I used to after seeing that thing with caked on soap residue. Thanks again.
This is just a Maytag/Frigidaire/Electrolux design, stay away from it. Go with an Old Whirlpool based Timer Switch Direct Drive unit (not cabrio, oasis, bravos) or a belt driven whirlpool based unit.
From what I understand mine is better than the newer models. Mine is 12 years old and I would buy it again in a heartbeat. 2 or 3 loads per day 7 days a week. Really the leak is the only major issue I've had and it was easily repaired. No electronics is why
Not worth all that trouble. A few days at work and buy a new washing machine.
Well worth the trouble for me. It wasn’t about the money. I love that machine and they don’t make anything like it any more. So I had to fix it. Thanks for commenting and your opinion, though.
22:36 - all the black oil marks in the insides of the walls of the washer. I have been told that it is the sign of failed bearings, throwing their oil out and hitting the walls of the case. Can anyone confirm that? I don't mean the dirt on the bottom, just on the sides.
That’s interesting. I hope someone can answer. For me it was the leak that required me to replace
Yep same as mines
@@bobdeengineer7396 in all honesty the only reason I did The repair was the seals were leaking. There was no noise or other issue. Like I mentioned, Over a year ago I took the front panel off and saw it was dripping from the seal. I got a glove and a cartridge of silicone w antibacterial and globbed it all over the seal from underneath. Then I didn't use the machine for 24 hours. It held for well over a year